How to Train Your Dog to Come Using a Long Lead
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Introduction
Training a dog to come back to you from a distance is considered to be one of the more challenging tasks, as you are asking your dog to return to you when he is interested in doing something else or being elsewhere. But, if you don't train him to come back on your command, he could simply run off and get lost or be injured, or worse. It is only natural for a dog to want to roam and explore his world, it is your job to teach him to come back to you when you call him.
There is nothing worse than having to worry about your dog running loose just because the front door is open, or the gate didn't get closed properly. At the same time, you don't want to treat your dog like he is a prisoner in his own home or yard. Long lead or as it is also known, long leash, long line, or check cord training is one of the fastest and best ways to train your furry friend to come each time you call him.
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Defining Tasks
The basic command is "Come!", meaning that no matter what your dog happens to be doing when you call his name and use the command, you want him to immediately stop what he is doing and return to you. This is one of the most important things you can teach your pup to do, as it could easily save his life at some point. Imagine if your dog was just about to step out onto a busy street and he ignored your command to 'come'.
While the command and the anticipated response are relatively simple, it can take a while for the concept to set in and for your dog to learn to come to your command whether or not he is on a long lead. You can use this method of training on both puppies and adults. In fact, the earlier you start this type of training, the faster your pup is likely to learn what is expected of him.
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Getting Started
When it comes to getting started, you don't need much in the way of equipment. You need a long leash, most trainers recommend one between 30 and 50 feet long. Never use one of those retractable leashes as this is not what they are designed to be used for. The ultimate goal is for your dog to come anytime you call without the need for any kind of leash. Supplies needed include:
- A long lead: Look for one that is 30 to 50 feet long for training purposes.
- Treats: To give your pup as a reward for getting it right.
- Patience: You'll need plenty of this at first.
- A Good Attitude: Your dog will pick up your attitudes, so be happy and stay relaxed.
- A place to work: Look for a nice quiet place to work with plenty of space.
Keep in mind that the idea of a long lead is to allow it to trail out behind your dog without your interference. He needs to feel as though he is free to wander until he gets to the end of the line, at which point you should be commanding him to come. Remember to use a firm commanding voice that lets your dog know you mean business while at the same time make sure you have a treat for him when he does what he is being asked to do.
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The Stay in Range Method
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Leash your pup
Attach your dog's long-leash to his collar for the training session.
Unwind the leash
As your dog walks away from you, let the long-leash unwind.
Let it lie
Allow the leash to lay loose on the ground. This way he knows it's there but that it is not stopping him from wandering within his boundaries.
End of the line
When he gets close to the end of the line, pick it up and use a command such as "Stop!" This is designed to help him recognize his boundaries.
Bring him in
Call your dog by name and give the 'come' command. As he walks back towards you pull the leash in along with him. Praise him and give him treats. Repeat this until he gets it right every time on the leash.
Off-leash
By now he should have no problem when called while he is on the leash. Now it's time to take him off the leash and practice the same game until he will come to you from anywhere when you call him.
The Come When Called Method
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Hook him up
Attach the long lead to your pup's collar, but keep it coiled up in your hand for the moment.
Stay put
Give your dog the 'stay' command and start to back away from him as you uncoil the leash.
Short moves first
For the first few attempts, keep the distances down to just a few feet until he gets the hang of it.
Call him to you
Call your pup to come to you. If he does so, reward him with a treat and lots of praise.
Continue working
Continue working with him until you reach the end of his leash and he will still come to you. Work with him at the end of the leash for a few days. By now you should be ready to try working with him off his leash. He should still stay within the range of his leash. If he does so, be sure to reinforce this behavior with lots of praise and treats.
The Going for Walks Method
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Get ready to go
Coil the leash up and attach the clip to your pup's collar.
Pay it out
Go for a walk along your usual route, paying the leash out, letting it drag on the ground as you walk.
Call-back time
When your dog has walked out to what you feel is a good distance, call him back to you.
Coil it up
If he is a good boy and comes right back to you, coil up the leash and give him a treat.
When he doesn't come back
If he doesn't come when called, use the leash to gently stop him in his tracks and either gently pull him back or wind the leash up as you walk towards him.
Keep working at it
Go for as many walks each day as you have time for. Keep them short, and keep repeating the training until your pup will come when called. Get rid of the leash and let your pup roam ahead, then call him back to you. When he comes back, heap on tons or praise and a healthy dose of treats.
Written by PB Getz
Veterinary reviewed by:
Published: 11/08/2017, edited: 01/08/2021
Training Questions and Answers
Sissy
Chihuahua
7 Months
Question
0 found this helpful
0 found this helpful
sissy is the smaller dog in the picture, i got her at 12 weeks old,she had little to no socialization at that time,i have been trying to get her comfortable on a leash and also in the car, however, she gets very anxious as soon as i try to walk her out the front door,even when i am just placing the harness and leash on her in the house, i have tried to just have her get used to the harness/leash inside the house but she absolutely hates them. once in the car, she gets so upset that she slobbers and vomits,i have given her nausea meds and calming treats ,along with putting her in a soft crate but these don't help much. is there anything else i can try?, she is perfectly fine in the house and our fenced in backyard
Feb. 8, 2022
Sissy's Owner
Caitlin Crittenden - Dog Trainer
1133 Dog owners recommended
Hello Cindy, I would break the training down into smaller steps and go slower - especially now that pup is so suspicious of the collar. Spend one day simply laying the collar on the ground and sprinkling treats around it several times a day. Do this until pup is comfortable touching it without you holding the collar - go at pup's pace. Watch their body language and stay at this step until pup is relaxed again around the collar. That may take one training session or a week - depending on how suspicious pup is of the collar at this point. Practicing for short periods multiple times a day can help things go more quickly. Once pup is comfortable just touching the collar, hold it in your hand and have pup eat treats out of the hand that is holding the collar. Do this until pup isn't worried about you holding the collar up anymore - don't try to suddenly put it on pup yet or that will set you back. Practice at this step until pup looks happy and confident again with the collar just being held up. End the training session while pup is doing well still. Next, loosen the collar as much as you can so that it makes a large loop, hold the collar up with one hand and hold the treats through the collar's hole with your other hand, so that pup has to move their head toward the collar hole to eat the treats - don't require pup to put their head through the hole yet, just in front of the hole. Do this step until pup is happy and confident about the collar being held up and approaching it - do NOT suddenly try to throw the collar over pup's head or move it toward them - pup is the one moving, you are keeping the collar still at this point. Practice that step until pup is relaxed - even if that takes several sessions. Next, hold the collar the same way, but offer the treats a bit closer to the collar, so that pup has to poke the end of their muzzle through the collar loop to take them. Practice this until pup is comfortable doing that. As pup relaxes, move your treat hand a bit further back so that pup is poking their head through the collar more and more as they improve - again, don't move the collar toward pup at this point. Let pup move their head in and out of the loose collar freely to get treats. Practice until pup has no issues with placing their head through the collar. Go back a step and practice at that step for longer before continuing if pup becomes nervous again. Next, once pup is comfortable poking their entire head through the collar, move the collar very slightly back and forth while holding it up, and holding treats in the collar for pup to move their head through it - you are just getting pup used to the collar moving, not putting it on yet. The collar should still be a large loop at this point - not fitted. Practice until pup can handle the collar moving. As pup improves, gradually increase how much the collar is moving back and forth while pup reaches their head through it. Next, have pup poke their head through the collar, and reward pup with several treats at a time for keeping their head in the hole for longer. Gradually increase how long pup holds their head in the collar for by spacing out rewards as they keep their head in the hole. Next, when pup can hold their head in the collar for longer, have pup poke their head through the collar, sprinkle several treats on something that's at pup's chin height so that your hands are free, and slide the buckle that adjusts the collar size back and forth while pup eats the treats. Start with small movements then stop touching the collar - you are just getting pup used to you messing with the collar a bit. Practice this until you can gradually work up to being able to adjust the size of the collar completely without pup feeling worried, while they eat the treats off the object at chin height. Once pup is can hold their head in the collar for several minutes while you adjust it, without being worried, adjust it to the proper size and leave it on pup for at least two weeks, to help pup get used to the feeling of wearing it around. Most dogs will scratch at it and feel like it's itchy for at least a week when you first have them wear a collar. Choose a collar that's safe for pup to keep on - such as a durable plain buckle collar - not a prong or choke or other training collar that could tighten or accidentally correct. When you catch pup itching at the collar, distract pup with a fun toy. Check out the video linked below for an example of getting pup to poke their head through an opening. The dog in that video wasn't afraid of the harness during training - so the training was done in one sitting for the sake of showing the steps, but expect your pup to need several sessions between each training step - moving too quickly will likely set pup back. Pup needs to get to the point where they are completely relaxed at the current step before you proceed to the next step - how long that takes will simply depend on pup's specific temperament. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tn5b8u1YS_g&feature=emb_title I recommend desensitizing pup to the car and slowing the overall process down. Start by simply feeding beside the car while its off, then feeding treats along the runner with the door open, then inside the car with it still. For at least a couple of weeks practice the Down Stay command on the middle seats' floorboard or seats (if a row seat). Gradually move to practicing with the car in the driveway but still while on - don't turn on in the garage for gas breathing reasons. When pup is completely relaxed in the car and can do a solid down-stay, recruit a second person to drive or train, so the driver can only focus on driving. Have the person training enforce Down, while the driver simply pulls out of the driveway and back in When pup can stay relaxed during that (which will require a lot of repetition before pup relaxes then too - once pup sees that the driving is boring through repetition), then drive down the block and back. Gradually increase the distance and level of excitement as pup improves, only moving onto further distances or more exciting locations once pup can stay relaxed at the current level of training. Check out this article on shy dogs also: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-socialize-a-shy-dog/ Activities like agility and certain tricks can also be a good way to build confidence in timid dogs. It's a fun way to help pup work through overcoming new obstacles in relationship with you, to build confidence and trust. You can purchase equipment of your own, build out of PVC, or create obstacles out of things you already have - like a kids tunnel, wooden ramp you build, objects to weave around, ect... Just make sure whatever you create is safe. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
Feb. 8, 2022
Keoki George
Australian Cattle Dog
12 Weeks
Question
0 found this helpful
0 found this helpful
Nipping, starting to jump now when food is near
Oct. 26, 2021
Keoki George's Owner
Caitlin Crittenden - Dog Trainer
1133 Dog owners recommended
Hello Lola, I recommend teaching pup the following commands. Step Toward method for jumping: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-australian-shepherds-to-not-jump Out - which means leave the area: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-the-out-command/ Leave It method (useful for food and biting) https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite Place - I would start teaching pup this command also so pup can learn to be sent to Place during meals and food prep, then give a treat at the end of the meal or food prep if pup was patient. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O75dyWITP1s Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
Oct. 27, 2021