In the past, training collars were limited in the ability to adjust the intensity of the electronic stimulus and were often referred to as shock collars, which gave them a negative reputation. Modern remote training collars feature a signal that can be used before electronic stimulation is applied, to alert the dog and act as a warning that a behavior such as 'stop' or 'sit and stay' is required before electronic stimulation will occur, and simulation itself is adjustable so that it can be tailored to each dog's minimum threshold for getting a response. If used correctly, training collars do not cause harm to your dog and can, in fact, result in less harm to the dog than if traditional negative reinforcement or punishment was used to stop or force a behavior. Also, if used to prevent a dangerous behavior such as running out into traffic, leaving the yard, or chasing livestock, it can be a life-saving device for a dog that cannot control his natural inclinations and may put himself in harm's way.
A training collar can be set to signal your dog and warn him that a correction is coming, allowing him to cease and correct behavior before receiving stimulation, which is a form of reinforcement, avoidance of a stimulus that is not delivered if the dog attends to commands or corrects their own behavior. This form of training can be very effective and is best used in conjunction with other training methods so that minimal stimulation is required. The stimulation delivered is adjustable, but is similar to a static electricity shock or can even be adjusted to provide a simple vibration to signal your dog and get attention. Training should be conducted at the lowest level of stimulation that elicits a response in your dog to be humane and effective, and to avoid negative side effects such as the development of aggression or anxiety, which can be associated with incorrect use.
Torres is the white bull terrier. He has been peeing in the house when it rains, or when he just won’t go outside. He also pulls terribly on a walk
Hello Christina, Does he use a doggie door? Or is let out into a fenced-in yard unaccompanied, or taken potty on a leash by you or someone else? There are a couple of ways to deal with the peeing in the house during rain. First, teach a "Go Potty" command. Every time you take him potty in general, command "Go Potty" and reward with a treat after he goes potty. If you normally don't go with him when he goes, you will need to go with him when he goes outside for a bit, until he learns the "Go Potty" command and will go quickly when you tell him to "Go Potty. Next, once he knows "Go Potty", when it's raining outside take him outside on a leash, tell him to "Go Potty" and walk him around slowly on a leash. Be prepared to get pretty wet during this - it could take a bit and persistence is key here! Don't let him come back inside until he goes potty. If he goes, praise enthusiastically, run him back inside where it's dry, then give treats. If he will not go after being outside in the rain for 45 minutes still, bring him back inside, put him in a crate, then try taking him back outside on a leash in thirty-minutes. After peeing outside during the rain several times and him seeing that he got to go back inside as soon as he did what you asked, he should figure out that the quickest way to get back inside is to go potty QUICKLY. Whenever it rains you will take to take him potty on a schedule though and not wait until he asks - he may never get to the point where he asks to go out, but he can learn to go potty out there when you take him and hold it in between potty trips while its raining. If the weather where you live has already gotten really cold (and during severe weather), you may not be able to do this until spring for safety reasons. If it's still warm enough (around 50 or above), then start right away so that he will be good at this before winter comes - at which point he needs to have learned that the quickest way to get back inside is to go potty quickly in the rain (not hold it until he is back inside and go then). A second option, is to also teach the "Go Potty" command but to set up a grass area somewhere out of the rain - like your garage or a covered patio. Use real grass for this. Look into real grass pads (not astroturf) and check out the article linked below on litter box training (and use a real grass pad set up somewhere covered instead of a litter box). I highly suggest setting up your real grass pad somewhere that moderately resembles outside still so pup doesn't start having accidents in the house - like your garage, patio, balcony, or a covered area you create outside. Real grass pad brands - also on Amazon: www.freshpatch.com www.doggielawn.com www.porchpotty.com Training to use the grass pad: https://wagwalking.com/training/litter-box-train-a-chihuahua-puppy Another thing that can help some dogs is weather protection. If pup dislikes the rain because they don't like being wet or its cold, a waterproof jacket that's cut so that it's still easy for pup to go potty while wearing it may help, but expect to still have to do some of the training mentioned above also at first. If pup is afraid of thunder, then work on desensitizing pup to the sound of it using thunder recordings on low volume paired with treats and lots of fun - gradually increase the volume as pup improves and seems unconcerned by the noise. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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I just rescued Gus. He's 3 and knows nothing.. Not even his name. My other 2 dogs are very well trained and generally off leash. Gus can't be off leash, as he has no recall, but also is horrible to walk on a leash! How do I use the collar to begin training? I've never used a collar before but I feel like he needs a little extra...
Hello, Check out James Penrith from TaketheLeadDogTraining on YouTube. He is an obedience trainer who specializes in e-collar training and off-leash reliability. He has a lot of videos talking about e-collar training. Good e-collar training is something that is incorporated into Intermediate Obedience and perfected with advanced obedience finally. Pup needs to be taught Basic Obedience without the e-collar, on leash in a calmer environment first, so that pup understands what a command means before the e-collar is added and the training proofed around distractions. Most basic obedience training is taught using mostly positive reinforcement because the point of basic obedience is just to build motivation, teach a dog what a word means, and increase the dogs general focus on you. During Intermediate obedience a dog is taught to obey those same commands around distractions also and eventually off leash during advanced obedience . An e-collar can be a useful tool for enforcing pup's known commands around distractions even when you are not right next to your dog. For a large dog like a Great Dane it can make training safer if used correctly because you are not fighting your dog's strength - but it needs to be added to existing training and combined with positive reinforcement to avoid many of the pitfalls of using the tool incorrectly. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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He chirps in his kennel. He is familiar with the quiet command but doesn’t seem to remember it when he is in the kennel when we get his food ready. Would an e-collar help with this? What is the best way to do that?
Also, he knows the leave it command but continues to eat the poop of our other older dog. Again, Would an e-collar help with this? What is the best way to do that?
Hello Sarah, Both of those issues could use an e-collar. For the kennel barking, first make sure that you aren't feeding him until he is quiet - move toward him with the food when quiet, turn around when he chirps. To use an e-collar you need to spend a lot of time learning how to properly use them. They are great tools when used effectively, but they require correct use, fitting, settings, and training - you can't just put one on and correct on any level without the right training methods or you can create behavior issues. When first using the e-collar, put the e-collar on him while he is standing and relaxed. Let him wear the collar around for a few days with it turned off to get used to the feel before using it. To learn how to put the collar on him, check out this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DLxB6gYsliI After a few days, spend some time finding his "working level" - which is the lowest level pup will respond to on the collar. While he is simply hanging out, standing and calm inside or in your yard, turn the collar (via remote) to it's lowest level and push the stimulation button twice. See if he responds to the collar at all. Look for subtle signs such as turning his head, moving his ears, biting his fur, moving away from where he was, or changing his expression. If he does not respond at all, then go up one level on the collar and when he is standing and relaxed, push the stimulation button again twice. Look for a reaction again. Repeat going up one level at a time and then testing his reaction at that level until he indicates a little bit that he can feel the collar. Here is a video showing how to do this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1cl3V8vYobM The lowest level he indicates he can feel the collar on is his working level - which is the level you will keep the collar on for training - you can go up slightly if he is ignoring the collar when highly aroused after he has already been trained what to do and do, but start on the working level always in each situation. A high quality collar should have at least sixty levels - such as those used for hunting dogs. Don't use a cheaply made collar - knock off brands online can be dangerous. Check out SportDog, Dogtra, E-collar technologies, and Garmin for a few high quality brands. Don't use citronella - it can actually be harsher than a properly used e-collar because of how sensitive a dog's nose is and how long the scent can linger for. You can try vibration first though - some dogs find that more adverse then low level stimulation but others find it more gentle - most of the collar brands mentioned above will also have a vibration option on them. With that said, I would practice pup's quiet at other times in situations where he may bark - like having someone ring your doorbell. Command Quiet. If pup obeys, give a treat. If he disobeys, then correct with the e-collar on pup's working level while saying "Ah Ah" or "No" calmly. Obedience to a known command = reward. Disobedience to something he knows = correction. Practice this until pup can obey reliably in that situation out of the crate. Next, practice the entire thing in the crate where he tends to chirp. Break his meal into portions so that he is getting fed several times while practicing. Whenever he stays quiet - add more food. Whenever he chirps after being told Quiet - correct with e-collar. Its very important that the corrections are on the right level, he understands that the corrections are for barking because you have already practiced in another setting, and he is also rewarded with additional food for being quiet. The combination of those things decreases pups stress during training surrounding meal time while also dealing with the unwanted behavior - you want to keep stress lower whenever it involves meals to avoid creating any food possessiveness. For the poop eating, practice a Leave It command, then practice walking past the poop with pup on leash and commanding leave it. Leave It method to teach that command first: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite When you know that pup understands leave it well, use a long leash and let pup wander away from you toward the poop. If pup goes toward the poop to eat the poop, command Leave It. If he obeys and walks away - reward. If he disobeys, correct with the e-collar quickly and start reeling him in with the leash BEFORE he gets it in his mouth. Stop the e-collar correction as soon as he moves away from the poop. Practice this around poop until pup will leave poop alone when you are present. At this point, hide somewhere where pup doesn't see or smell you but you can watch pup - like inside at a window, and let pup into the yard. Create visuals for yourself of where the poop is in the yard, like a stick poking out of the ground by the poop so that you can tell when pup goes near the poop. Try to make the visual something that's not too obvious to pup though. Watch pup from inside and whenever pup starts to bother the poop, correct with the collar on a slightly higher level than pups normal level. Repeat this until pup also leaves poop alone when they think you aren't present. It's also super important to keep your other dogs poop cleaned up at all times when you are not specifically booby trapping poop for training purposes - you don't want pup to eat the poop when you weren't ready, then get corrected at other times - the inconsistency will interfere with your training efforts. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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Ok so everytime I let her out she will see a neighbor in their own yard. I give her the vibration saying NO Pepper. She totally ignores that. Starts running over there I hit her with the shock. And holler again right before I’d have pressed it and she still ignores it. Then when I go get her she will run opposite way. And I buzz her again saying pepper come and she will run away instead of what I’m asking.
Hello Rebekah, It sounds like you have skipped the training part of training collars. Check out James Penrith from Take the Lead Dog Training on YouTube and watch several of the videos on his channel on teaching Come using e-collars. James Penrith's Youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rtJxSXu4rfs&t=537s Start, by going back to the basics with her, using the Reel in Method from the article linked below. Reel In method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-whippet-to-recall Once she can respond to Come using the Reel in method, add the e-coll on top of that - but with the leash still on her. When she doesn't come, you will apply the vibration and then stimulation while at the same time reeling her in with the leash - she has to be shown with the leash what she is supposed to do when she feels the sensation of the collar. If you skip that step, many dogs will run even further because all they know is that they are feeling discomfort and they want to get away from it - they haven't been properly taught that to get away from it they should come to you - the long leash and lot of repetition at her "Working level" needs to be done first. Also, be sure that you have spent time finding her working level for the collar - which is the correct, lowest level that she indicates she can feel the collar at - this is different for different dogs. Fitting an e-collar: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DLxB6gYsliI Finding the Working Level: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1cl3V8vYobM Teaching Come using the E-collar: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=98dt9Uqu-Ds&t=104s Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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