How to Potty Train a Schnauzer

Hello Jackie, What have you tried so far for potty training? Without knowing more details on pup's history with potty training I cannot give very specific advice. In these situations often pup is being expected to alert you to go outside and given too much freedom in your home too soon. A dog will appear to be doing well, but it often takes at least three months to get a dog to the point where they are consistently not having accidents inside your home when you are taking them outside on a schedule and crating when away and asleep, so they are dependent still on your help to go potty in the correct place. Often when a dog gets to this point, people will start to give more freedom and loosen the potty schedule thinking that because pup alerts part of the time and was accident free, they are ready for more freedom. Generally once a dog gets to the point where they aren't having accidents while on a schedule and crated when you aren't supervised, it takes another six months of that accident free schedule and crating, for pup to develop that long term habit of holding their bladder even when you aren't helping as much, and consistently alerting on their own. I would go back to a three hour potty schedule - taking pup potty every three hours during the day. If pup tends to have accidents before then, then every two hours. Make sure pup is actually going potty while outside if you have a fence you are letting them into to go. Often young dogs will get distracted and not actually go potty while out there. When you aren't with pup, like when asleep and gone off, crate pup in a crate that doesn't have anything absorbent, and is only big enough for pup to stand up, turn around, and lie down, to encourage pup to hold it while in the crate. I like using beds like www.primopads.com or k9ballistics crate mats in the crate, to give padding without encouraging pottying in the crate with something absorbent. You can use a crate divider for wire crates if your crate is bigger, until pup is doing well with potty training again and the divider can be removed to give pup more space. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Oct. 11, 2021

Hello Brisa, Pay attention to pup's body language and the environment. Some pups don't want to walk because they are afraid of a neighborhood dog in a fence barking, construction workers, funny objects (like yard decorations), and things we would never think twice about. If pup isn't familiar with something (no matter how normal it may seem to us) it can feel scary to pup and be a reason why they don't want to leave the safety of the yard. If pup seems nervous or something might be bothering them in the environment, work on helping pup overcome that fear first by using play and treats to distract pup and then reward pup for any confidence, calmness, or tolerance they shows around the fearful thing. Practice this further away from the scary thing first and very gradually work up to pup being able to pass that thing as her confidence grows with your help. Simply spending time sitting outside with pup daily in the environment pup is uncertain of - without expecting walking yet - can help the area become less scary or distracting. Next, spend time getting pup used to leash pressure in general if pup's not familiar with coming forward toward you when there is a leash tug. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-your-puppy-to-accept-leash Next, if pup still won't walk, take some small treats or pup's dog food pieces in a small ziplock bag in your pocket or a favorite toy. Every time pup takes a couple of steps, give a treat or toss the toy a step forward or let pup give the toy a tug. Keep your energy excited and confident. When pup stops, tell pup "Let's Go" in a calm and business-like tone of voice (it's not a question, it's a confident, calm command), then tug and release the leash several times in a row until pup takes a couple more steps - at which point give another treat or play. The leash tugs should stop as soon as pup starts moving. Keep your walking goals short at first. If pup won't leave your yard - your first goal is just to leave the yard. When pup reaches that goal - go home as an additional reward for pup following you - even if a lot of leash tugs were involved. When pup will go to the end of the yard easily then walk to the next house. Gradually increase your walk distance overtime. If you make your goal something huge like the whole neighborhood at first you are less likely to succeed - work up to distance overtime. Also, do not continuously pull pup on the leash. Doing so can harm pup's neck, but also dog's have a natural tendency to pull away from something - so if you pull pup in one direction, she will just pull back in the other direction, budging even less. This is why you do the quick tug and releases so that not following is uncomfortable with the tugs but not a continuous pull. You want pup to choose to walk to get away from the annoying tugs and to receive treats. I suspect pup is nervous or distracted about the environment or not sure how to respond to leash pressure - so don't skip over desensitizing pup to the environment and leash if pup seems at all nervous about those things - freezing and looking like a deer in headlights is one sign of nervousness. Finally, make sure pup isn't in pain or sick, causing her not to want to exercise in any form due to feeling bad. If you have reason to suspect pup is ill or injured, definitely see your vet. (I am not a vet) Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

July 16, 2021