How to Train Your Dog to Behave on Walks

Hello Susan, Check out the Turns method from the article linked below. Pay special attention to the steps on turning directly in front of pup as soon as their nose starts to move past your leg - don't wait until her head is all the way past your leg to turn in front of her or this will be hard to do. It should look like pup sitting beside you, slightly behind you so that head is behind your leg, step forward and as soon as she starts to move ahead of you, quickly turn directly in front of her. You will probably have to be fast at first and may bump into her until she starts to learn this. Practice in an open area, like your own yard, so that you can make lots of turns easily. You want pup to learn that she should stay slightly behind and pay attention to where you are going and where you may turn, instead of assuming she knows the way and can forge ahead. The turns keep her guessing and more focused. Turns method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel I also recommend recruiting some friends or family members pup would be excited about to practice the Passing Approach and Walking Together methods from the article I have linked below. This method mentions other dogs, but the same steps can be used to get pup used to greeting people more calmly. https://wagwalking.com/training/greet-other-dogs I would also work on the Sit method for pup to learn to greet politely once you reach the person. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-australian-shepherds-to-not-jump Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Lara, First, if by reacting that also includes barking, I suggest combining a few things in your case. You need a way to communicate with her so I suggest teaching the Quiet command from the Quiet method in the article I have linked below - don't expect this alone to work but it will be part of the puzzle for what I will suggest next. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bark Next, once pup understands what Quiet means you will choose an interrupter - which will be a form of punishment - neither too harsh nor ineffective. An e-collar or Pet Convincer are two of the most effective types of interrupter for most dogs. A pet convincer is a small canister of pressurized, unscented air that you can spray a quick puff of at the dog's side to surprise them enough to help them calm back down. (Don't use citronella and avoid spraying in the face!). Command Quiet. If they obey, reward with a treat and very calm praise. If they bark anyway or continue to bark, say "Ah Ah" firmly but calmly and give a brief correction. Repeat the correction each time they bark until you get a brief pause in the barking. When they pause, praise and reward then. The combination of communication, correction, and rewarding - with the "Ah Ah" and praise to mark their good and bad behavior with the right timing, is very important. Most bark training only gives part of that equation. Fitting: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DLxB6gYsliI Finding his low level: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1cl3V8vYobM Once pup is calmer in general after the initial training, practice exposing her a lot to the things that trigger the barking normally (make a list - even if it's long). Whenever she DOESN'T bark around something that she normally would have, calmly praise and reward her to continue the desensitization process. If she hasn't been socialized, before you do the above I would start by simply spending time sitting outside with her for 30-60 minutes at a time as often as you can, starting with the calmest locations like your front yard, sidewalks in dead end streets and cul-de-sacs, and various spots in your neighborhood once at a time. Take treats and some of pup's favorite toys. If they will take the treats, reward calmness, responsiveness to you, quiet curiosity, and any other good responses, as well as practice something to get pup's focus on you, like rewarding pup for doing tricks and simple commands they know, or hiding treats on the ground in areas that are pesticide and car fluid free (be especially careful on pavement of anti-freeze). If pup is too stimulated or nervous to take treats, then simply hang out in the area calmly, keeping interactions with pup up beat and overall calm, without soothing pup, or acting angry with pup - mirror confidence, calmness, and a happy attitude in that environment, so pup can take cues from your attitude. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Abbey, I recommend desensitizing pup to other dogs using the passing approach method from the article I have linked below, working with friends who have well mannered dogs that you have recruited to help. https://wagwalking.com/training/greet-other-dogs Check out the video also for another example of desensitizing pup to other dogs. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3n_fPKPLA2g&list=PLXtcKXk-QWojGYcl1NCg5UA5geEnmpx4a&index=10 It sounds like pup is probably overly aroused around other dogs and needs to learn more calmness emotionally through desensitization. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello, I would work on Finlay's heeling skills when out and about on a walk. That way, you do not have to be concerned with trying to keep him still, which is a tough thing for him when there is excitement in the area, such as other dogs. Try the Turns Method as described here: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel. Finlay will be too busy to look at the other dogs. Canines love to learn and chances are he'll be quite pleased to have a job to do while walking. You can also teach Finlay the Quiet Method. It comes in handy for walks and many other situations such as when the doorbell rings at home. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bark. The Desensitize Method can be worked on, too, and adapted to situations where Finlay meets up with other dogs. Good luck and happy training!