How to Train Your Dog to Not Pee in the House

Medium
1-6 Months
General

Introduction

Bringing home a new dog is tons of fun! But those first few weeks can be quite the hassle. Both you and your pup have to get used to life with each other. For most puppies, this means learning where they should – and should – not pee!

You'll lose the rose-colored glasses of puppyhood fast if your house starts to smell like a kennel. Some dogs just don't know where they are supposed “go.” Others are trying to claim various possessions by sprinkling them with their signature scent. Either way, you're probably going to want your pooch to not pee in your house.

Defining Tasks

Teaching canines to only pee outside is called “housebreaking.” It's pretty standard for puppies to learn this hygienic habit, but sometimes an older dog will have to learn it too. This is often the case of rescue dogs, or dogs who have lived their entire life outdoors.

The goal is to help your four-legged friend understand that peeing should only happen when the dog is out of the house. Eventually, you can even train your dog to pee on command! But you've got to crawl before you run. Most pups will need to start at the very beginning of housebreaking. And the whole process may take several months to perfect!

Getting Started

To help you on your puppy-potty-training journey, you're going to need a few things. Below are a few essentials to help get the job done.

  • Treats: Every time your dog piddles in the right spot, you'll want to give her lots of treats, so stock up!
  • Cleaning Supplies: News flash – your dog is going to make some messes. It may seem like every time you come home there is a puddle waiting for you. But the right cleaning supplies can help with the problem. Get something that is enzyme based so that no scent remains.
  • Patience: It's easy to get frustrated when you feel like there isn't any progress. But getting angry will only confuse your pupper. Keep a cool head and only scold your dog if you catch her in the act.

It's important to mention that in rare cases, your pooch might be peeing inside because of a health problem. Take the dog in for a check-up to be sure all is well.

Following are some of the best tried and true ways to teach your dog to keep the urine on the grass and off of the carpets. No matter which one you choose, remember that consistency is key!

The Scheduled Appointments Method

Most Recommended
28 Votes
Scheduled Appointments method for Not Pee in the House
Step
1
Rise and shine
Each and every day, as soon as your pup wakes up, take him out (even if there's still sleep in your eyes)!
Step
2
Establish routine
Feed him breakfast at the same time each morning. Also provide a bowl of water. Bring him back outside between 5 and 30 minutes after breakfast.
Step
3
Watch and walk
Watch throughout the day for when your pooch grabs a drink. Make sure to head right back out there 5–30 minutes after water intake.
Step
4
Evening drill
Serve dinner at the same time each night. Let the dog out once again shortly after dinner. Do not put out bowls of water after dinner time to lower the chance of a bed time accident.
Recommend training method?

The Scent-Free Method

Effective
11 Votes
Scent-Free method for Not Pee in the House
Step
1
Prepare
Go out and buy a cleaner made especially for dog urine. Regular cleaner just won't get the smells out. Even if you can't tell there was pee on the floor, your dog's amazing nose can still probably pick it up.
Step
2
Clean promptly
If at all possible, do not let messes sit! They will soak deeper into your floor the longer they are left, becoming harder and harder to clean.
Step
3
Indicate a good spot
If using a cloth towel to clean up, place the soiled one outside where you'd like your fur buddy to go instead.
Step
4
Neutralize
Spray the site of the accident with the cleaner. Be generous, you don't want your dog getting confused by the smell of his own golden fluids and deciding that your living room is his toilet. Read the instructions! Some cleaners require you to let them sit for a while before you sop them up. Whatever the directions are, follow them all, or you might as well not bother.
Recommend training method?

The Positive Tinkling Method

Least Recommended
10 Votes
Positive Tinkling method for Not Pee in the House
Step
1
Be vigilant
From the moment your pooch wakes up until they rest their eyes at night, watch them! If this means taking off a few days of work, try to arrange it if at all possible.
Step
2
Run!
Every time the pup starts to sniff around or circle, head on out – and fast!
Step
3
Celebrate!
If you guys make it out in time and your fur-baby succeeds, praise him like crazy! Even dish out a few treats so the dog associates outside peeing with a good time.
Step
4
Be understanding
Don't get mad if you find a smelly yellow puddle on your floor. If the dog has already peed, it's too late to correct him.
Step
5
Introduce a command
When your dog starts to “go” outside more consistently, start to give a command like “do your business” or “potty time” each time the dog exits. This way the pooch will be able to eliminate on command, which is super awesome for walks and road trips!
Recommend training method?

Success Stories and Training Questions

Training Questions and Answers and Success Stories

Question
Ty
AnimalBreed object
9 Weeks
1 found helpful
Question
1 found helpful
Ty
AnimalBreed object
9 Weeks

What do you do if your puppy pees in the house constantly even when you r on top of him with taking him outside

Alisha Smith
Alisha S., Dog Trainer
93 Dog owners recommended

Hello! What a sweet face he has! I am sending you information on potty training and crate training if you decide to use a crate to help with potty training. You will want to spend a few weeks practicing the advice, and you should see a quick turnaround. Here is information on potty training, as well as crate training if you decide to use a crate to aid in the potty training process. Potty training: Know Your Pup. As you spend time with your puppy, learn your puppy’s love language. Just as some people prefer gifts, touch, or time spent together, puppies can be the same way. Some puppies love praise or pets, while others prefer treats. As you get to know your puppy, consider what reward your puppy loves the most. Create a Daily Schedule. It is best to have a routine for your puppy. A schedule helps them understand when to eat, play, and “go to the bathroom.” Your puppy should go out frequently and the routine should be the same every time. When? Start the day by taking your puppy outside, and repeating based on age and ability. They should also go out after napping, chewing, playing, and within 10 to 15 minutes of eating. Although some puppies can sleep for seven hours, it is important to set an alarm and take your pup out during the night. When you do, don’t make a fuss about it. Quietly take them outside with minimal stimulation and light. Praise them if they go to the bathroom and gently return them to their bed or crate. You don’t want them to get stimulated and ready to play in the middle of the night! As you get to know your puppy, you will become aware of their individual habits. Click here to learn more about house training schedules for puppies. Where? Take your puppy to a specific area to urinate or defecate. Be consistent. You can create an area by using urine-soaked paper or bowel movements to help create an aroma to stimulate your puppy. How? Take your puppy out on a leash so they can focus on the desired activity. This will help prevent them from wandering off to play. Once your puppy is in the selected area, use your verbal cue, such as “Hurry Up,” “Poopies,” “Go tinkle,” or any phrase your puppy responds to. What? Know the signs that your puppy has to go to the bathroom. Every animal may have a different “I gotta go” gesture, which often include restlessness, sniffing around, circling, scratching at the door, barking, and, eventually, squatting. At the first sign that your pup has to go, calmly and quickly take them outside to their bathroom spot. Deal with Accidents. Accidents are a normal part of house training a puppy. What to Do If you see your puppy in the process of urinating or defecating inappropriately, calmly and quickly interrupt them in the act. Tell them to stop (either by a jarring sound or command), and immediately take them to an appropriate location for elimination. After your puppy goes to the bathroom, lavishly praise them and offer a treat. Thoroughly clean up accidents, so your puppy is not attracted to this area again. Create a consistent feeding and watering schedule. Depending on the age of your puppy, they will eat three to four times a day. A consistent feeding routine can create a regular bathroom schedule. Take away water about 2 hours before bedtime. Learn more about ideal dog schedules here. What NOT to Do Don’t punish your puppy when they have an accident. At that point, it is too late. When a puppy has an accident in the house and they walk away, within seconds they have already forgotten about what they did. Taking them to the scene of the crime and yelling and/or rubbing their nose in it does not help and, in fact, can harm your puppy! Supervise. The best thing you can do is to prevent accidents and the best way to do this is to supervise your puppy at all times. You can tether your puppy to your waist with a five or six-foot leash and carefully observe them for signs that they need to go to the bathroom. If you can’t supervise, then crate or confine your puppy. The more accidents your puppy has in the house, the more confusing it will be for them and this can delay house training. Reward, Reward, Reward. It is important to give your puppy a reward for their good behavior. This can be for commands such as sitting and coming to you, or for appropriately eliminating outside. In a puppy, a reward can be a couple kibbles of puppy food or a treat, such as a small piece of meat. The treat should be exciting for them and only available as a result of good behavior. Crate training can take days or weeks, depending on your dog's age, temperament and past experiences. It's important to keep two things in mind while crate training: The crate should always be associated with something pleasant and training should take place in a series of small steps. Don't go too fast. Step 1: Introduce your dog to the crate Place the crate in an area of your house where the family spends a lot of time, such as the family room. Put a soft blanket or towel in the crate. Take the door off and let the dog explore the crate at their leisure. Some dogs will be naturally curious and start sleeping in the crate right away. If yours isn't one of them: Bring them over to the crate and talk to them in a happy tone of voice. Make sure the crate door is open and secured so that it won't hit your dog and frighten them. Encourage your dog to enter the crate by dropping some small food treats nearby, then just inside the door, and finally, all the way inside the crate. If they refuse to go all the way in at first, that's OK; don't force them to enter. Continue tossing treats into the crate until your dog will walk calmly all the way into the crate to get the food. If they aren’t interested in treats, try tossing a favorite toy in the crate. This step may take a few minutes or as long as several days. Step 2: Feed your dog meals in the crate After introducing your dog to the crate, begin feeding them their regular meals near the crate. This will create a pleasant association with the crate. If your dog is readily entering the crate when you begin Step 2, place the food dish all the way at the back of the crate. If they remain reluctant to enter, put the dish only as far inside as they will readily go without becoming fearful or anxious. Each time you feed them, place the dish a little further back in the crate. Once your dog is standing comfortably in the crate to eat their meal, you can close the door while they’re eating. The first time you do this, open the door as soon as they finish their meal. With each successive feeding, leave the door closed a few minutes longer, until they’re staying in the crate for 10 minutes or so after eating. If they begin to whine to be let out, you may have increased the length of time too quickly. Next time, try leaving them in the crate for a shorter time period. If they do whine or cry in the crate, don’t let them out until they stop. Otherwise, they'll learn that the way to get out of the crate is to whine, so they'll keep doing it. Step 3: Practice with longer crating periods After your dog is eating their regular meals in the crate with no sign of fear or anxiety, you can confine them there for short time periods while you're home. Call them over to the crate and give them a treat. Give them a command to enter, such as "crate." Encourage them by pointing to the inside of the crate with a treat in your hand. After your dog enters the crate, praise them, give them the treat and close the door. Sit quietly near the crate for five to 10 minutes and then go into another room for a few minutes. Return, sit quietly again for a short time and then let them out. Repeat this process several times a day, gradually increasing the length of time you leave them in the crate and the length of time you're out of sight. Once your dog will stay quietly in the crate for about 30 minutes with you mostly out of sight, you can begin leaving them crated when you're gone for short time periods and/or letting them sleep there at night. This may take several days or weeks. Step 4, Part A: Crate your dog when you leave After your dog can spend about 30 minutes in the crate without becoming anxious or afraid, you can begin leaving them crated for short periods when you leave the house. Put them in the crate using your regular command and a treat. You might also want to leave them with a few safe toys in the crate. Vary the moment during your "getting ready to leave" routine that you put your dog in the crate. Although they shouldn't be crated for a long time before you leave, you can crate them anywhere from five to 20 minutes prior to leaving. Don't make your departures emotional and prolonged—they should be matter-of-fact. Praise your dog briefly, give them a treat for entering the crate and then leave quietly. When you return home, don't reward your dog for excited behavior by responding to them in an enthusiastic way. Keep arrivals low-key to avoid increasing their anxiety over when you will return. Continue to crate your dog for short periods from time to time when you're home so they don't associate crating with being left alone. Step 4, Part B: Crate your dog at night Put your dog in the crate using your regular command and a treat. Initially, it may be a good idea to put the crate in your bedroom or nearby in a hallway, especially if you have a puppy. Puppies often need to go outside to eliminate during the night and you'll want to be able to hear your puppy when they whine to be let outside. Older dogs should also initially be kept nearby so they don't associate the crate with social isolation. Once your dog is sleeping comfortably through the night with the crate near you, you can begin to gradually move it to the location you prefer, although time spent with your dog—even sleep time—is a chance to strengthen the bond between you and your pet. Potential problems Whining: If your dog whines or cries while in the crate at night, it may be difficult to decide whether they’re whining to be let out of the crate, or whether they need to be let outside to eliminate. If you've followed the training procedures outlined above, then your dog hasn't been rewarded for whining in the past by being released from their crate. If that is the case, try to ignore the whining. If your dog is just testing you, they'll probably stop whining soon. Yelling at them or pounding on the crate will only make things worse. If the whining continues after you've ignored them for several minutes, use the phrase they associate with going outside to eliminate. If they respond and become excited, take them outside. This should be a trip with a purpose, not play time. If you're convinced that your dog doesn't need to eliminate, the best response is to ignore them until they stop whining. Don't give in; if you do, you'll teach your dog to whine loud and long to get what they want. If you've progressed gradually through the training steps and haven't done too much too fast, you'll be less likely to encounter this problem. If the problem becomes unmanageable, you may need to start the crate training process over again. Separation anxiety: Attempting to use the crate as a remedy for separation anxiety won't solve the problem. A crate may prevent your dog from being destructive, but they may get injured in an attempt to escape. Separation anxiety problems can only be resolved with counterconditioning and desensitization procedures.

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Shiro
AnimalBreed object
7 Months
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Question
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Shiro
AnimalBreed object
7 Months

Hey, I have couples of questions regarding to the my dog .
1. How do I train my dog to not listen to others command?
2. How do I train my dog to bark at someone who enter my house?
3. How do I train my dog to attack to someone who enters my house and try to steal things?

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
673 Dog owners recommended

Hello Ayusx, The easiest way to train pup to not listen to other's commands is generally to teach your dog commands that only you know they will respond to - this is why protection dogs are often taught German commands instead of English. To teach pup to bark, first teach pup the Speak command. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-german-shepherd-to-speak Once pup knows the speak command, recruit friends pup doesn't know to step onto the property or come to the door while pup watches from a window or inside somewhere. Command speak and reward with a treat when they do. Practice with telling pup to speak each time the person is there, until pup barks on their own when the person tries to enter without saying speak. At that point, have the person come onto the property, wait seven seconds to see if pup will bark on their own, reward if they do, and command speak if they don't - then reward but give a smaller reward when you tell pup opposed to when pup does it on their own. Practice until pup will bark each time someone enters the property. Practice with different people you can recruit, that pup doesn't know so that pup will learn to do this with anyone who enters the property and not just that one person. Draw pup's attention to people outside or people on your property, and reward pup when you see them watching someone in general - so that pup will begin watching people and staying more alert as a habit. Pup doesn't have to bark to reward this one - just reward when pup is watching someone and you notice that. I also recommend teaching the Quiet command, so that you can tell pup when to stop barking after they alert. Quiet method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bark For the protection training with bite work you need to hire a professional protection dog trainer. Done wrong, you can create a dog who is fear aggressive and will not be under voice control and will be more of a liability to you than protection. True protection training requires a high level of off-leash obedience around high distractions, working with a dog's natural defense drive using positive reinforcement - via bite bags and the tug response, and building a dog's confidence rather than instilling fear. This requires a lot of knowledge about dogs and this type of training, staff to practice bites and holds with, and equipment like body suites and arm pads. This should only be done by a professional who knows how to accomplish those things without creating unwanted issues. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Dixie
AnimalBreed object
2 Years
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Dixie
AnimalBreed object
2 Years

Hello!
We purchased Dixie in February 2019 when she was three months old. From the start we had trouble with accidents despite taking her out every hour and utilizing the crate. When quarantine started she was having 6 accidents a month so I tried umbilical training for ten days, then confined her to a small area when she wasn't in the crate, took her out every 2 hours and rewarded her with freeze dried salmom. I got her to zero accidents for the month of July but with a move to a new home in August her accidents are coming back. Currently we still use the crate, confine her to a small area when not in the crate, take her out every two hours and still give her high praise. Today she ate a greenie, walked to the doormat near our patio door, squated and peed with no circling or searching to give us cues. I don't know how after 7 months of rigorous potty training we are still not seeing success. Should we bell train?

Alisha Smith
Alisha S., Dog Trainer
93 Dog owners recommended

Hello! Yes the use of a bell would be beneficial in your situation. I have a few steps that I am going to send you that will assist in this process. Step 1 Buy a set of bells that you will be able to easily hear when your dog rings them. Hang the bells at your dog’s level on the wall next to the main “potty door.” Before going outside, ring the bells yourself and say “Go Potty.” Take your puppy out on a leash to the same location every time. When your puppy does their business, repeat “Go Potty” and give them a treat. Repeat this process every time your puppy goes out for about one week. Step 2 You will now begin luring your puppy to ring the bell themselves. Before taking your puppy out, show them a treat and slowly bring it next to the set of bells. When your puppy’s nose or paw touches the bells, say “Let's Go Potty Outside” and take them outside to their potty spot. Wait for your puppy to go and then repeat “Go Potty” and give them the treat. It is important to be rewarding your puppy for going to the bathroom outside. This is why the treat is only given after they have done their business! This process may last a week, give or take a few days depending on the puppy. Step 3 Now that your puppy is physically ringing the bells, it is time to phase out the food lure. Just before taking your puppy outside, gesture to the bells with your empty hand instead of using a treat to draw their nose over. When your puppy rings the bells, say “Go Potty” and take them to their spot. After your puppy goes, repeat “Go Potty” and reward them with a treat. Taking your puppy out on leash while working on potty training. This ensures that they will understand the bells mean “Go Potty” and not “go out and play.” If you take your puppy out on a leash and they do not go, confine them inside either on a leash or in their crate for 5 to 10 minutes and then repeat the bell training process. Remember to have patience with your puppy and yourself. As long as you stay consistent and fair, you and your puppy will get the hang of this in no time!

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Question
Teal'c
AnimalBreed object
14 Weeks
1 found helpful
Question
1 found helpful
Teal'c
AnimalBreed object
14 Weeks

Ok so we've had this boy since the day he turned 8 weeks. We expected that there would be some accidents in the house. Surprisingly he "seemed" to be very easy to house train. we set alarms and got up every three hours and took him out. We did notice in training him Not to beg at dinner time that he would pee on the floor if we did not give in to the begging. On one occasion we had already taken him out, he wanted to bug us at dinner, we said "no" and he walked over to the kitchen, turn around looked at us and peed as much as he had in him on the floor. The next night we had to take him for a walk on the leash instead of to play at the dog park because of the weather. He did his business as usual, we brought him in, he wanted to play, we said no and went to bed, the alarm went off and we got up to take him out and he had peed on the floor and shat on his blanket. That is when we decided that we needed to crate train him at night. Since then we have been crating him and night and he does not have accidents. I have washed the floor and used the deodorizer. This is a very very smart dog, he knows a lot of commands and has been easily trained to sit, heel, stay and even stay and wait till a command to eat his dinner even when his bowl with food has been placed on the floor. I have noticed a few behavioral issues though. Even when he learns something he often will be insubordinate. He knows "no" he knows "go lay down" he knows where his "time out" spot is and he knows he's not supposed to pee on the floor. I have developed damn near telepathic capabilities to determine when this dog actually needs to go out. He knows that all he needs to do is come over to me and look at me and I'll say "do you need to go OUT" and I will take him out. So at this point, seeing him just occationally, every few days, seemingly for the hell of it, piss on the kitchen floor, has led me to believe that this is a dog that just doesn't give a shit. I am pretty sure that he has learned that we don't want him doing this but that if he does, all we're going to do is say "no", take him out, and clean up after him. Every site on the internet basically says that everything is our fault, apparently, no punishment is considered appropriate for this behavior. How do you teach a dog not to want to pee on the floor when his headspace is "I don't feel like going out right now" or "I don't feel like communicating right now" and so "frick it, I'll just piss on the floor, what are they gonna do about it?" It's to the point where I have considered buying rural property instead of the house in town that we are living in and negotiating buying and then realizing that I'm losing my mind. My partner says that there's no such thing as an "outdoor dog" and he has raised this very breed combination for most of his life and he's saying he has never encountered this sort of issue or attitude or insubordination before in a dog. This Bart Simpson style "I will do what I feel like and you can deal with it" attitude is also displayed with other issues like, for example, ignoring his huge collection of toys and opting to chew and damage furniture and personal belongings, complete disregard for personal space (if I'm working on something or doing something and I can't play he will ram the toy into my foot or leg and if I don't respond he will nip, when I say "no" if he's doing something he's not supposed to he will park at me or snap the air in my direction. But honestly, the random pissing on the floor, whenever it suits him, is just the last straw.

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
673 Dog owners recommended

Hello, First, know that the breed combination you have is usually a highly intelligent, sensitive dog, who often needs a pet parent who is calm, consistent and they respect in order for them to work for you. I suggest temporarily using the crate more during the day. When you take pup potty, tell them to "Go Potty" and give a treat after each pee and each poop. If pup goes potty, give 1.5-2 hours of supervised freedom in the house. After 1.5-2 hours (or less if accidents still happen sooner than 1.5-2 hours), crate pup until it's time for the next potty trip, which as this age should be at least every 2.5-3 hours. If you take pup outside and they don't go potty, return to the crate for an hour, then try again in an hour or sooner if pup acts like they need to go. You want to manage the behavior enough that pup's schedule is preventing them from having accidents at this age, so that they will develop a long-term habit of keeping the home clean and actually want to keep it clean themselves too. This takes time to develop and requires a lot of consistency and preventing accidents due to management. If the accidents are happening sooner than 1.5 hours after the potty trip and are not related to times when pup is getting in trouble or is really excited (if so pup is probably submissive peeing or excited peeing, which is deal with differently), then follow the tethering method from the article linked below. If pup indicates they need to go sooner than the scheduled time, rush them outside to go. If you are too late and catch pup mid-pee, clap your hands three times to interrupt, then quietly rush pup outside. Once pup is outside, praise and act like nothing happened. Rewards and corrections have to happen right when the behavior happens - so only interrupt pup for accidents while pup is mid-pee, and once pup is going potty outside - you have to put aside your anger and act happy about them going potty outside, so pup associates outside with good things. Potty training is and punishing is tricky because done wrong, you can teach a dog to simply be more sneaky about pottying inside, or to avoid pottying in front of you completely - which back fires when pup also won't go in front of you outside. Timing has to be just right and rewards for doing the correct behavior have to also be given so pup knows that the correct action is good and not punishable. Disregard for person space is completely normal. Work on teaching pup a Place and Out command. Place: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O75dyWITP1s Out - which means leave the area: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-the-out-command/ Leave It method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite For the chewing, check out the article linked below. That behavior is also completely normal. Pups have to be taught to leave human objects alone and actually taught to like their own toys. One way to teach a dog to teach on their own toys is to teach commands like leave it, confine pup when you can't supervise, and use deterrents like bitter apple to make furniture and your things less appealing, then make pup's own things more appealing but choosing toys that are durable and hollow and can be stuffed with kibble. You can even feed pup their entire daily kibble as treats and in toys to stimulate pup mentally and help with the chewing and behaviors. Toys like Kongs, durable puzzle toys with treats inside, kong wobbles, ect...You can even give pup a frozen kong that will take him longer to get the food out of. Place pup's food in a bowl with water the night before. Let the food turn to mush, poke a straw through the Kong's holes, loosely stuff the mush around the straw, freeze the entire thing, then remove the straw and give it to him in the early evening. Add a bit of peanut butter or liver paste to the mush if he needs help being interested in it - don't pack it tightly or he won't be able to get it out. You can make several of these ahead of time to have on hand. Just subtract the food in the kong from her dinner kibble amount, to avoid overfeeding. Highly intelligent and more dominant personality dogs tend to do well with more mental stimulation and structure. Work on earning his respect through obedience and mentally challenging him to wear him out, like with training and toys. Watch out for methods that use a lot of physical force to gain respect, because Malinois and German Shepherd tend to have strong defense drives and those methods may backfire. Have pup work for what they get in life instead, by performing commands to earn things like meals, petting and play. Finally, avoid using cleaners with ammonia on your floor - ammonia smells like urine to a dog and can encourage pottying inside. Make sure deodorizing cleaners contain enzymes - only enzymes will break down the pee and poop at a molecular level to remove the smell well enough for a dog's sensitive nose. Other types of cleaners don't work well enough or just mask the scent. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Toby
AnimalBreed object
3 Years
0 found helpful
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Toby
AnimalBreed object
3 Years

Okay so we’ve had our dog for about 2 years , we got him from someone who no longer wanted him. (pretty sure they used to hit him because when we first got him it took him a bit to open up he was a very scared pup) , anyways he’s very sneaky when it comes to peeing in the house and i have trouble trying to correct it because I don’t want him to get scared

Alisha Smith
Alisha S., Dog Trainer
93 Dog owners recommended

Hello! How great of you to take him in. I usually tell folks when adult potty issues arise, it is best to wipe the slate clean with whatever you are doing and start fresh as if he were a puppy. Potty training a puppy is full of positive reinforcement anyway, so it should be not only gentle on him, but could provide him a bit of a confidence boost. The information I am sending you is geared towards puppies, but the process is the same. Potty training: Know Your Pup. As you spend time with your puppy, learn your puppy’s love language. Just as some people prefer gifts, touch, or time spent together, puppies can be the same way. Some puppies love praise or pets, while others prefer treats. As you get to know your puppy, consider what reward your puppy loves the most. Create a Daily Schedule. It is best to have a routine for your puppy. A schedule helps them understand when to eat, play, and “go to the bathroom.” Your puppy should go out frequently and the routine should be the same every time. When? Start the day by taking your puppy outside, and repeating based on age and ability. They should also go out after napping, chewing, playing, and within 10 to 15 minutes of eating. Although some puppies can sleep for seven hours, it is important to set an alarm and take your pup out during the night. When you do, don’t make a fuss about it. Quietly take them outside with minimal stimulation and light. Praise them if they go to the bathroom and gently return them to their bed or crate. You don’t want them to get stimulated and ready to play in the middle of the night! As you get to know your puppy, you will become aware of their individual habits. Click here to learn more about house training schedules for puppies. Where? Take your puppy to a specific area to urinate or defecate. Be consistent. You can create an area by using urine-soaked paper or bowel movements to help create an aroma to stimulate your puppy. How? Take your puppy out on a leash so they can focus on the desired activity. This will help prevent them from wandering off to play. Once your puppy is in the selected area, use your verbal cue, such as “Hurry Up,” “Poopies,” “Go tinkle,” or any phrase your puppy responds to. What? Know the signs that your puppy has to go to the bathroom. Every animal may have a different “I gotta go” gesture, which often include restlessness, sniffing around, circling, scratching at the door, barking, and, eventually, squatting. At the first sign that your pup has to go, calmly and quickly take them outside to their bathroom spot. Deal with Accidents. Accidents are a normal part of house training a puppy. What to Do If you see your puppy in the process of urinating or defecating inappropriately, calmly and quickly interrupt them in the act. Tell them to stop (either by a jarring sound or command), and immediately take them to an appropriate location for elimination. After your puppy goes to the bathroom, lavishly praise them and offer a treat. Thoroughly clean up accidents, so your puppy is not attracted to this area again. Create a consistent feeding and watering schedule. Depending on the age of your puppy, they will eat three to four times a day. A consistent feeding routine can create a regular bathroom schedule. Take away water about 2 hours before bedtime. Learn more about ideal dog schedules here. What NOT to Do Don’t punish your puppy when they have an accident. At that point, it is too late. When a puppy has an accident in the house and they walk away, within seconds they have already forgotten about what they did. Taking them to the scene of the crime and yelling and/or rubbing their nose in it does not help and, in fact, can harm your puppy! Supervise. The best thing you can do is to prevent accidents and the best way to do this is to supervise your puppy at all times. You can tether your puppy to your waist with a five or six-foot leash and carefully observe them for signs that they need to go to the bathroom. If you can’t supervise, then crate or confine your puppy. The more accidents your puppy has in the house, the more confusing it will be for them and this can delay house training. Reward, Reward, Reward. It is important to give your puppy a reward for their good behavior. This can be for commands such as sitting and coming to you, or for appropriately eliminating outside. In a puppy, a reward can be a couple kibbles of puppy food or a treat, such as a small piece of meat. The treat should be exciting for them and only available as a result of good behavior.

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Training Success Stories

Success
CinnaBear
AnimalBreed object
Three Years

I have tried to tell him and teach him but he is older now and I was not paying attention to what he was doing in the house so what do I do now that he is older? He pees everywhere even if I'm looking. But he does know that he's not allowed to do it because right after he looks at me as if he just robbed a bank so I'm not sure if he knows and just keeps doing it because I tell him no but he goes outside to and I'm not always out there to watch him completely all the time because work... anyway he won't stop and I don't know what to do. My other dog is potty trained but not by us. also he won't leave her alone and will play bite her which is leaving sores and I bought a cream which will help her but he still won't stop.

10 months, 1 week ago
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