How to Train Your Dog to Not Play Aggressively

Hello Carolyn, Don't expect the animals to play together, instead teach the puppy to respect the cat's space, then if the cat decides she wants to play, she can initiate it when the puppy is more mature and calmer - but very few cats ever initiate play with dogs so don't expect it. If it happens it will be a pleasant surprise. A more realistic goal for the animals is for them to be able to calmly hang out in the same room and simply get along without getting rough or scared. Just because they do not play, that does not mean that they will not enjoy each others company though. Our cat growing up simply liked to lay near our cat-friendly dog - even though they didn't play or touch usually. When Charlie starts getting rough with the cat, get between the animals, tell Charlie "Out" (which means leave the area) while you point to where he should go to (away from the cat), and walk toward Charlie until he moves to where you have pointed to - away from the cat. Pretend that you are a goalie or a herding dog, trying to herd him away from the cat using your body. Be calm but firm when you do this. You don't want to add even more excitement to the scenario by being excited or angry. When Charlie is "Out", then stand in front of him and block him from going back to the cat until he stops trying to get back. When he stops trying to get around you or fixating on the cat, or leaves completely, then walk back toward the cat yourself. If he tries to follow you back, then tell him "Ah-Ah" and repeat walking toward him to get him out of the area again. Practice walking him out of the area, standing in front of him to block him from returning to the cat, going back over to the cat yourself, and walking him out of the area again if he tries to follow you back. When you are ready to let him come back, tell him "Okay!" in a cheerful tone of voice and encourage him back over - he does not have to come back over though. Be consistent and don't let him go back over to where the cat is unless you have told its "Okay". Expect to have to repeat walking toward him and blocking his way a lot at first. He will not understand what you are doing at first, so needs to practice this. He also will likely not want to obey, but should learn to obey if you are consistent and show him through your consistency and insistence that obeying that command isn't optional. Also, when he is calmly hanging out by the cat, laying down while the cat moves around nearby, or obeys your "Out" command when first told - without you having to walk him out of the area, then reward him with treats and praise. By doing that, you are teaching him to continue to love the cat but also to be respectful toward her and calm around her. Your cat will probably appreciate Charlie's new manners and might choose to be closer to him if she feels as if she can trust him more. I also recommend teaching a "Leave It" command, so that you can tell Charlie to leave the cat alone when you know that he is thinking about bothering her but hasn't yet. Check out the article that I have linked below and use the "Leave It" method. When Charlie can do the "Leave It" training with food and objects, then practice with moving things, like yourself, other people and the cat walking by. Block him from getting to the cat if he disobeys - by getting between him and the cat like you did with the "Out" command. When he stops trying to get to the cat, then you can reward him for leaving her alone. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Kien, If everyone is consistent, with time, practice, and a bit more maturity age-wise Lucky should improve. It can be hard to be the middle-man and reiterate advice you have been told. I suggest hiring a trainer to come to your home and work with Lucky while the entire family is present. If your family can hear the advice directly from a professional instead of through you that may help. If they can try the training for themselves and see improvement in Lucky's behavior, that might also help. As a trainer, human cooperation is often the hardest part of the job. People have to believe it will work and choose to do it for themselves. At the end of the day you cannot force a person to do something. It's their choice. Look into local obedience clubs to see if there are dicounted classes you can attend together or see if there is a local trainer who will come to your house and give your family one-on-one attention. A well qualified trainer with a good reputation for success and teaching that comes to your home will probably be the most effective but a class will be cheaper. In the end the family members have to choose to participate. Neither you nor a trainer can force that, but a good trainer might be easier for them to listen to. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Lachlan, Dog parks are fun but they do not teach a dog how to be calm. It sounds like Norman is trying to play with you the way he would with the other dogs. I suggest working on structure and boundaries with him, spending time teaching him commands like Place, crate training, and Stay. It is normal for him to have a lot of energy at this age, and he definitely needs exercise, but he also needs mental stimulation - which tires a dog out twice as much as physical exercise alone. Practicing commands, new things, and working on current obedience at a challenging level can stimulate him mentally. Some games are also mentally stimulating. Check out the video below for addressing boundaries with him and helping him to calm down and focus better: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EcwvUOf5oOg Place: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=omg5DVPWIWo Crate manners: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mn5HTiryZN8 When he is in the crate, you can also give him food stuffed toys - which will stimulate him a bit mentally and give him something to do. You can feed him his meals this way so that he has to work for food. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Ariane, First, I do suggest hiring a professional trainer to help you with this because pup redirected the bite to you while aroused. You may also want to introduce pup to a basket muzzle using treat rewards. To introduce the muzzle, first place it on the ground and sprinkle his meal kibble around it. Do this until he is comfortable eating around it. Next, when he is comfortable with it being on the floor with food, hold it up and reward him with a piece of kibble every time he touches or sniffs it in your hand. Feed him his whole meal this way. Practice this until he is comfortable touching it. Next, hold a treat inside of it through the muzzle's holes, so that he has to poke his face into it to get the treat. As he gets comfortable doing that, gradually hold the treat further down into the muzzle, so that he has to poke his face all the way into the muzzle to get the treat. Practice until he is comfortable having his face in it. Next, feed several treats in a row through the muzzle's holes while he holds his face in the muzzle for longer. Practice this until he can hold his face in it for at least ten seconds while being fed treats. Next, when he can hold his face in the muzzle for ten seconds while remaining calm, while his face is in the muzzle move the muzzle's buckles together briefly, then feed him a treat through the muzzle. Practice this until he is not bothered by the buckles moving back and forth. Next, while he is wearing the muzzle buckle it and unbuckle it briefly, then feed a treat. As he gets comfortable with this step, gradually keep the muzzle buckled for longer and longer while feeding treats through the muzzle occasionally. Next, gradually increase how long he wears the muzzle for and decrease how often you give him a treat, until he can calmly wear the muzzle for at least an hour without receiving treats more than two treats during that hour. Muzzle introduction video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KJTucFnmAbw&list=PLXtcKXk-QWojGYcl1NCg5UA5geEnmpx4a&index=6&t=0s Check out the Passing Approach and Walking Together methods. I suggest recruiting someone to walk the calmer dog while you or a trainer walk the new dog. Start with the passing approach method, and once pups can pass by each other closely and stay calm, switch to the walking together method, starting from further again and working toward closer again. When the dogs can walk together calmly, work on teaching pups Place and working on structured, calm activities with them together. As the other dog becomes more normal through obedience and calm activities together, gradually give supervised, low-key opportunities to simply hang out in the same yard or space without having to interact too much directly. Passing Approach and Walking Together methods: https://wagwalking.com/training/greet-other-dogs Place: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O75dyWITP1s Thresholds: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-w28C2g68M Out - which means leave the area: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-the-out-command/ Leave It method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite Quiet method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bark Down-Stay: https://www.thelabradorsite.com/train-your-labrador-to-lie-down-and-stay/ Heel- Turns method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Tyler, It is fairly common for older dogs and younger dogs to disagree because of the differences in energy levels. Maggie is probably getting tired and feeling overwhelmed after playing for a bit because Ruby does not let up when Maggie is giving her signals that she is ready to stop. Maggie may be resorting to aggression because she feels like she has to to get Ruby to give her space. You will need to do a couple of things. The first is supervise their play and be Maggie's advocate. When you see that she is getting tired and not having fun anymore distract Ruby away from Maggie. Perhaps have Ruby do something with you, or go lie down with a toy, or even have some quiet time in her crate, if she is use to being crated, with a fun toy, like a Kong chew toy stuffed with her kibble and a little peanut butter. If you separate the two dogs before Maggie feels overwhelmed she will begin to feel like you are handling the situation and that she does not have to be the one to control things. The second thing that you can do is to reward Maggie with something she loves, such as treats or a favorite toy, whenever Ruby comes near her. When Ruby is away keep things boring for Maggie and when Ruby comes close give Maggie something special so that she will associate Ruby's presence with good things and begin to want Ruby around. I would suggest doing both of those two things, as well as rewarding Ruby for leaving Maggie alone when you interrupt their play. Teaching a "come" or an "out" command can be great for Ruby. An out command is simply a command that means get out of the space you are currently in, that space being wherever Maggie is. Best of luck with your dogs, your girl is beautiful in the photo. Thank you, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Sarah, I suggest teaching Tucker the "Out" command (which means get away from where you are). Use the out command to make Tucker leave the area any time that he starts roughhousing with your cat. Gently play and snuggling is fine but watch for him getting aroused and interrupt him at the first sign of arousal and over-excitement. If you give the animals consistent boundaries he should also calm down a bit with age. Out command - check out the how to teach the out command section, and also the how to use out to deal with pushy behavior section. I suggest at least quickly reading over the entire article though. https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-the-out-command/ Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Hannah, Respect is generally earned by putting in extra time and effort ahead of time. First, spend time training her in general - it doesn't matter as much what you teach but being the one to teach her commands can help build respect. Down, Heel, Watch Me, Sit, Place, and Come are all good commands to help with calmness or focus. Second, when you give a command, insist on it, helping her be able to do it if it isn't something she knows yet (don't assume she knows what you want because at this age she probably doesn't most of the time - she just knows you are mad for some reason or want SOMETHIING). For example, if you tell her to Come, and she normally doesn't, keep a drag leash on her around the house, and when you call her and she doesn't come, calmly go over to her, pick up her leash and walk her back to where you called her from. When she focuses on you and stops trying to get away (or sits), then praise her and tell her "Okay", then let her go. Only tell her to Come for pleasant things and emergencies while she is still learning to come around distractions and in general so that she will want to come more often. - If you need her for something unpleasant, keep the drag leash on her, go over to her and calmly bring her to where you need her to go. If you tell her to Sit and she has learned that command before and isn't doing it, hold her leash tight enough that she can't leave and wait until she gets tired and finally sits - this can take up to 30 minutes the first time! It's all about being calm and persistent though - so that she learns that you mean what you say but she isn't too afraid to listen. You can also gently pull up on your puppy's leash and at the same time press two fingers on either side of where her tailbone meets her back - touching that sensitive area will cause most puppies to tuck their bottoms under into a sit. Do this only for puppies that already know the Sit command from methods like lure reward training - using treats and fun to teach it. Think about the people in authority who you respect the most - they are probably calm but when they say something they actually mean it. People who yell a lot or are inconsistent often don't earn respect, only fear. For the biting, she probably thinks you are roughhousing right now. Check out the article linked below and follow the "Leave It method".This will take practice for her to learn it so practice regularly. You can use the bite Inhibition method in the meantime, but the Leave It method should be your end goal to teach at her age. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite For the jumping, check out the Step Towards method from the article linked below. When you practice this, you should be very calm and business-like. She will likely try jumping even more at first to test out how you will respond. Simply stay calm and step toward her again with your arms behind your back until she decides this isn't fun anymore and calms down. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-australian-shepherds-to-not-jump Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Chhavi, For the obedience I suggest either joining a Basic Obedience class with him in your area, or finding how to videos or articles on for each command you want to teach, such as: How to teach Sit https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-german-shepherd-puppy-to-sit How to teach Down https://www.thelabradorsite.com/train-your-labrador-to-lie-down-and-stay/ How to teach Come https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-whippet-to-recall How to teach Drop It https://wagwalking.com/training/drop-it How to teach Heel https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel How to teach Leave It - follow the "Leave It" method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite How to teach Fetch https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-to-fetch/ For the running away, keep an 8 foot leash on him while you are home to supervise. When he gets a shoe, calmly walk over to the end of the leash and pick it up, take the slack out of it (so he won't pull you over), and tell him to "Drop It". Since you will have the other end of the leash he won't be able to run away with it. Practice Drop It with his toys at other times so that he becomes good at that command when he isn't excited about a shoe and can then perform the command when you tell him to. To introduce him to another dog, first make sure that that dog is someone he should be playing with and is not aggressive. It's better not to play with any dogs than meet an aggressive dog. If the other dog does well with dogs, then follow the Walking Together method from the article linked below, to gradually introduce them in a calm way on a walk before letting them play in the yard. If they are super excited, then you can use the Passing Approach method, then the Walking together method, then introduce them up close. https://wagwalking.com/training/greet-other-dogs While playing, pay attention to their energy and if both dogs are still having fun. If one starts to get overwhelmed or the play starts getting too intense, have the dogs pause the play and calm down. When both are calmer, let the most timid dog go first and if they want to play, you can let the other dog go play as well. By giving them a break you are keeping them from getting as aroused (lots of arousal is more likely to lead to fighting), letting both catch their breath, and keeping the game fun and not overwhelming for the more timid or tired of the two dogs. For the general tiredness on certain days, I would ask you vet. That could just be his personality and normal for him since he is getting a bit older, but it could also be something medical and I am not a Vet so can't give medical advice. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello, First, when his tail is wagging, does it look relaxed and loose or stiff, possible high, or short quick wag? If the wag is stiff, that's not necessarily a sign of friendliness - that's a sign of arousal, which can be paired with friendliness or aggression, but doesn't mean pup is necessarily happy, just tense and on edge due to aggression, nervousness or excitement. Dogs in that state are far more likely to get into a fight. Many dogs don't do well at the dog park because arousal levels are so high there among all the dogs. To be honest, I would stop going to the dog park with pup. It sounds like pup does well one-on-one and pursuing one-on-one lower key play dates, structured calmer activities with other dogs - like walks and hikes together, or classes in canine sports or obedience would be much better ways to exercise, stimulate mentally and maintain socialization for your dog. If pup is a dog who struggles with the environment of the dog park, the incidences of aggression and stress of going could actually create dog aggression that's not present yet, making all interactions with other dogs a big issue in general. Choose interactions that facilitate less competing and arousal, to help pup improve their social skills. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Karen, I am so sorry for your experience with the other trainer. I suggest teaching the following commands to teach him calmness. Even though he has tons of energy he should be able to learn how to be calm inside but it is a skill that needs to be taught and you will need to find ways to stimulate him mentally and physically also - but the stimulation times should be when you decide and he should be more relaxed at other times...this takes practice to teach so try not to get discouraged and stay consistent. To help build calmness I suggest teaching the commands from the videos and articles linked below: Place - he should practice being on Place a lot. Work up to 1-2 hours. You can give a food stuffed chew toy for him to work on while on Place. He can stand up, sit down, and lie down while on it but he cannot get off it until he is told "Okay", "Free", or whatever release word you use. Place is a great command for teaching him self-control and how to simply BE instead while inside. Place: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=omg5DVPWIWo Crate manners: https://thegooddog.net/training-videos/free-how-to-training-videos/learn-to-train-the-good-dog-way-the-crate/ Thresholds: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-w28C2g68M Heel article - The turns method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Heel Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTiKVc4ZZWo For the jumping and biting: Out command - which means leave the area you are in. Also be sure to read the sections on teaching the Out command and using Out to deal with pushy behavior: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-the-out-command/ Leave It command from Leave It method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite Jumping - Step Toward method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-australian-shepherds-to-not-jump Spending time training every day can actually help with the energy too. It you are teaching things that are a bit challenging for him - and self-control is very challenging at this age for him, then it can help wear him out mentally. Mental exercise being combined with physical exercise has been proven to tire a dog out more than physical exercise alone. To cope with my own high drive dog's energy when he was young we would have 30 minute training sessions every day in addition to regular walks or games of fetch. Without the training sessions he tended to get into mischief. You also may want to invest in a 30 foot leash and padded back clip harness to work on some off-leash work such as Come using the Reel In method from the article linked below, or teach a structured game of fetch using a long leash, and incorporate sit, down, and wait commands into the game to make him work harder to tire him out sooner. You want him to be working for you to help him calm down and get tired. Reel In method for Come: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-whippet-to-recall Fetch: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-to-fetch/ Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Elisabeth, Check out the Step Toward and Leash Pressure methods for the jumping: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-australian-shepherds-to-not-jump For the biting, I suggest teaching the Leave It command from the Leave It method. I also suggest teaching Out and paying special attention to the sections on How to Teach Out and How to Use Out to Deal with Pushy Behavior. Leave It method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite Out - which means leave the area: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-the-out-command/ Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Jenny, If you feel overwhelmed, things are getting worse, or there is a bite, then I would seek professional help. Aggression is something best addressed immediately or it can get worse, so if you feel good about working through it yourself you can try the below suggestions, but if you are not seeing improvement or feel overwhelmed by it, then you may want to hire someone who is very experienced with aggression to come to your home and help one-on-one with you (obedience classes aren't enough - you need someone who has a lot of experience with behavior issues to address it with the dogs and teach you how to manage it in real time). The growling during tug play could actually be a sign of play - if both dogs are tugging on the rope and their body language is otherwise fine - happy and relaxed, most dogs will growl while playing tug - but it's the rest of the body language that tells whether the intent is aggressive or play-mock-fighting. For the jealous behavior, pushiness, and resource guarding, work on taking the pressure off of both dogs to be in charge and in control by mediating situations for them, work on commands that improve calmness and self-control, and make and enforce the rules so that the dogs are not working it out themselves - you are telling them how to react and behavior in a calm but firm way. I suggest teaching both dogs Out (which means leave the area) and Place - which is similar to Stay but on a certain spot and they can sit, stand, or lie down but can't get off the spot. Practicing Place with both dogs in the same room on separate place beds can help facilitate calmness around each other and respect for you. Out is great for giving direction and giving a consequence of leaving the room when there is pushiness or mild resource guarding. Out command: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-the-out-command/ Place: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=omg5DVPWIWo I also suggest crate training both dogs so that they can have a calm place to chew on a chew toy away from each other when things are tense, or one dog is pestering the other, or you are not home to supervise while they are still getting to know each other. Crate training is an important potty training and safety measure for a young pup also. An open crate while you are home can also serve as an additional Place to practice, and feeding both dogs in separate locked crates can prevent food resource guarding and remove stress around mealtimes! Crate Manners - great calmness and gentle respect building exercise : https://thegooddog.net/training-videos/free-how-to-training-videos/learn-to-train-the-good-dog-way-the-crate/ Surprise method - for introducing crate for first time: https://wagwalking.com/training/like-a-crate Decide what your house rules are for both dogs and you be the one to enforce the rules instead of the dogs. No aggression, no pushiness, no stealing toys, no stealing food, no being possessive of people or things, or any other unwanted behavior - if one dog is causing a problem, you be the one to enforce the rules so that the dogs are NOT working it out themselves. For example, if pup comes over to your other dog when he is trying to sleep, tell pup Out. If he obeys, praise and reward him. If he disobeys, stand in front of your other dog, blocking the pup from getting to him, and walk toward pup calmly but firmly until pup leaves the area and stops trying to go back to your other dog. If Dexter pushes pup or gets between you and pup uninvited, tell Dexter Out and enforce him leaving. When he is waiting for his turn patiently, then send pup to place and invite Dexter over - no demanding of attention right now from either dog. Make them wait or do a command first to work for your attention if pushiness is an issue, and make them leave if being pushy or aggressive. If Dexter growls at pup, make him leave the room while also carefully disciplining pup if pup antagonized him. Be vigilant and take the pressure off of your dogs - you want them to learn to look to you when there is a problem, and for them to learn respect for each other because you have taught it to them and not because they have used aggression. When pup first enters the room, give Dexter a treat without pup seeing so pup is associated with good things for Dexter - treats stop when pup leaves. When Dexter is being calm, tolerant, and friendly without acting matcho and pushy toward pup, you can also calmly give a treat. Keep the energy calm when interacting with the dogs. Don't feel sorry for either dog, but give clear boundaries instead. Don't expect them to be best friends right now - the goal is calm co-existence. When puppy matures and they have learned good manners around each other, they may decide to be friends as adults, but calmness, tolerance, and co-existence comes first. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Ryan, You can teach him the out command - which means leave the area, and use it to tell him to give the other dogs' space when needed. If the issue was happening during doggie play dates with friends and you were present this is something you could work on. Since it's happening at the daycare and the workers likely can't be training him while there, you may not be able to do anything about the situation because it would require someone who knows how to work with him being willing and able to work with him in real time around the other dogs - daycare workers are supervising so many dogs that they can't give that much attention to a single dog, all they can do is manage by separating. A trainer at a group obedience facility, who specializes in aggression (even though this isn't exactly aggression but those skills are similar) and behavior issues and has access to well behaved dogs to practice the training around is what you need. This will be a private training session at their facility most likely - even though it would involve other dogs your dog would be the only one being trained. Not all places are set up for this so you would have to ask facilities a lot of questions to see if they could accommodate your needs. If a group training facility where they can work on this isn't an option, then I suggest spending the daycare money on something like a structured walk with a dog walker, possibly walking with other well-behaved dogs for the social experience - but in a calm, structured way to help with behavior around other dogs. You want low-arousal activities around other dogs, opposed to things like wrestling and unstructured play to improve interactions. Finding a daycare that has activities like hiking, agility, treat finding, swimming, doggie massage, ect...and choosing activities that are safe for his breed would be another good option if such a place exists in your city. He would be somewhere having fun and being mentally and physically stimulated, plus around other dogs, but the environment wouldn't involve rough play and high arousal - but more mentally stimulating activities instead. This is actually better for a dog in general. Teaching Out - After Out is taught it can be enforced with the remote training collar using a long leash. You would give the command - which he knows and has practiced at that point, wait two seconds. If he starts to move away from the area he is in, praise and toss a treat to him. If he disobeys and doesn't move away, buzz the collar while saying "Ah Ah" and reeling him in with the long leash. As soon as he starts to move away from the area because you are reeling him in, stop buzzing the collar - this is to help him connect that moving away is what stops the correction, so he will learn to move away on his own when told to. Using both corrections AND rewards, instead of just one of the other, can help him learn faster. It's super important that you show him what to do with the long leash when you start using correction - you don't want to just buzz him without also showing him at first where to go with the long leash, even though he should know Out before beginning. The verbal "Ah Ah" or "No" is also important because he will learn to associate that with the correction so that he will respond to just "Ah Ah" later and not need the correction as often. Out: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-the-out-command/ You mentioned that you don't always have a clicker with you, teaching pup a verbal "Ah Ah" and a verbal positive marker (a clicker is a marker) like "Yes" or "Good!" can also be useful. This is done just like a with a clicker. Say Yes and reward, or Good and quickly reward, practicing over and over until pup associates that word with a reward, then the "Yes" or "Good" can be used as a marker. Right when he does something good, without having to carry a clicker around. The main thing is just to try to have good timing with your Yes or Good so that you say it right when pup is doing the thing you want to help him learn, then follow up with a treat for new commands. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Stacey, Check out the article linked below and follow the Quiet method. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bark At first, this method will teach no barking. After pup has learned Quiet means stop barking, to teach pup to also stop growling when you say "Quiet," practice Quiet in scenarios where pup play growls too - like while playing tug of war. Whenever he growls while playing, tell him "Quiet". Reward him when he gets quiet when you say "Quiet" and stop the game if he doesn't stop growling - until he calms down, then resume playing again. Practice this on/off, red light/green light type training during play with just you and him until he can control his growling better. Honestly, for the next part of training you may need to pair the quiet command with a remote vibration collar and teach him that the tone from the collar means Quiet, and the vibration is used as a mild form of correction - to interrupt him enough to "snap him out of it" when needed - rewarding him well when he responds correctly so that this is a pleasant exercise for him when he chooses to obey. I believe E-collar technologies has a vibration collar with a tone setting, that might be a good place to look for a high quality one first. Once he has learned to become quiet when he hears the vibration collar tone, and understands that the vibration is a correction for disobeying Quiet - so it's not a scary thing just a reminder, practice playing one-on-one with a friends' well mannered, obedient dog. Remind him verbally or with the tone to be quiet when he starts growling, reward with continued play or treats (call the dogs apart and reward separately so there is no competition for food), and use the Out command (which means move away from something) or his recall to separate them when they are so aroused pup is really struggling to obey quiet. Once they are calmer again, you can continue the play and training. Pay attention to their overall energy and arousal level and end the play and training for the day when they are starting to get rougher and rougher and have less control as they get tired. Have regular training/play practices until pup is doing really well playing quietly with that dog, then you can recruit other friends with dogs to practice with, and finally let pup play with other, well socialized dogs in general. For this behavior pup may always need a little bit of a reminder occasionally to stay quiet however...but once pup has learned the lesson well, it should just be a reminder needed. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

It's good that you are inquiring about this behavior now. I think you may want to take Doobi for some one on one training. Because the situation is a little scary, it's better to do that. If you are unable to do that right away, at the very least take Doobi to obedience classes. The structure and mental stimulation will be very good for him. Rottweilers were once working dogs and I find the breed still has that innate desire in them. Agility or flyball are fun activities that would tire Doobi out and perhaps make him more docile. Learning his commands will benefit you because your energetic pooch will know his place and respect you. Remember, not knowing your dog's past can make the training a challenge, too because you don't know how long he has acted like this. So, make some inquiries about training right away. In the meantime, there are good tips here: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-rottweiler-to-not-be-aggressive and https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite. All the best to you and Doobi.

Hello Julia, Quite simply, he needs to not be allowed to play in an unstructured way with a group of dogs anymore. Not only is it doing harm to the other dogs physically and tempermentally, but the more he practices bullying behavior, the worse it will get for him. Instead, see if you can set up a dog walking or hiking group or join an already existing one (if you are in the US space everyone out). Practicing obedience commands outside around other dogs doing the same thing can also be a good way to socialize him while encouraging calmness, a more respectful attitude, and better listening with you. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Nathalia, I suggest working on desensitizing pup to strangers and strange dogs using positive reinforcement, while also increasing pup's overall respect for you because of the possessiveness she may have of you, and to build her trust. Check out the article linked below for some details on socializing: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-socialize-a-shy-dog/ Check out the articles and videos linked below for ways to increase pup's trust and respect for you: Working and Consistency methods: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-doberman-to-listen-to-you Place: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=omg5DVPWIWo Crate manners: https://thegooddog.net/training-videos/free-how-to-training-videos/learn-to-train-the-good-dog-way-the-crate/ Thresholds: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-w28C2g68M Heel article - The turns method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Thomas from the Canine Educator on YouTube has several free videos online talking about leash reactivity, aggression, fear, and reactivity as well. Reactivity is defined as a dog acting aggressive from a distance but not when actually introduced to what they were reacting to. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Charlie, First, for fetch, try playing with two balls. Work on teaching Drop It if he doesn't already know that command, and when he drops the first ball, have a second ball behind your back that you throw - so that he learns to let go of the main ball and forget about it - instead of wrestling to get it back or transferring to your leg. https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-to-fetch/ Second, what you are doing about the biting isn't necessarily a bad thing to do, but I would suggest a bit different approach to help him learn faster. Check out the article linked below. Starting today, use the "Yelp" method. At the same time however, begin teaching "Leave It" from the "Leave It" method. As soon as pup is good at the Leave It game, start telling pup to "Leave It" when he attempts to bite or is tempted to bite. Reward pup if he makes a good choice. If he disobeys your leave it command, use the Pressure method to gently discipline pup for biting when you told him not to. The order or all of this is very important - the yelp method can be used for the next couple of weeks while pup is learning leave it, but leave it will teach pup to stop the biting entirely (which it's time for him to learn at this age). The pressure method teaches pup that you mean what you say without being overly harsh - but because you have taught pup to leave it first, pup clearly understands that you are not just roughhousing (which is what pup probably thinks most of the time right now), so it is more effective. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite When pup gets especially wound up, he probably needs a nap too. At this age puppies will sometimes get really hyper when they are overtired or haven't had any mental stimulation through something like training. When you spot that and think pup could be tired, place pup in their crate or an exercise pen with a food stuffed Kong for a bit to help him calm down and rest. When he does bite you leg, use Leave It, then if he continues, ignoring leave it, and he is simply too wound up to respond to the training, instead of lifting him - take it a bit further, and place him in a crate or an exercise pen for five minutes with a chew toy - give the chew toy, because the purpose isn't really to punish him but to give him a break to calm down where he can learn to redirect his over-excitement onto the chew toy until calm enough to play. Wait until he is calm before you let him back out of the crate, even if that means you have to crate him for a while at first (unless he truly needs to go potty, then deal with that). Another thing you can try is, teach him the Out - command, (which means leave the area), following the section in the article linked below on How to Teach Out. Once he knows Out, use the section found in the same article on Using Out to Deal with Pushy Behavior to enforce him giving you space when he isn't listening - expect him to get more excited at first while he doesn't understand what you are doing, but stay consistent, calm, and keep taking steps toward him until he backs away and gives some space. Your goal is to be "Spock-like" (serious calm, character from StarTrek) and show as little emotion or reactivity as possible while doing this, to help him calm down also. Finally, know that mental exercise can actually tire a dog out even more than physical exercise alone; this tends to be even more important for intelligent, working dogs like Australian Shepherds. As a general rule, try incorporating training commands into daily life for pup, practicing things that are a bit challenging for pup and require concentration from them, or teaching new tricks regularly - simply as a fun way to keep pup mentally engaged, happy, and calmer overall. These things don't have to take tons of time, just a bit of creativity to incorporate them into other activities like fetch, walks, daily life, or 10-30 minute training sessions at some point in the day. Best of luck training, Caitlin Training

Hello Kelly, I suggest teaching both pups Out - which means leave the area, Leave It, and Place. Make not playing in the house a rule and when they start to, calmly tell pups "Ah Ah", then give them a command to leave each other alone, like Out, Leave It, or go to Place. When they are most riled up, use Place so they have to actually be in separate areas and are less tempted. While they are on separate Place beds, you can also give each dog a food stuffed chew toy to keep them entertained instead. It will take time and a lot of consistency for them to stop playing inside completely, but stay consistent and play attempts inside should gradually lessen and those commands also help you manage the attempts until then. When outside, begin giving a command like "Go Play!" And say it excitedly so that pups know it's acceptable outside and the rule is just for inside the house. Out - leave the area: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-the-out-command/ Leave it method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite Place: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=omg5DVPWIWo Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Madeline, Check out the video linked below. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EcwvUOf5oOg Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Lulu, First, know that growling and rough housing during tug is normal. They could be acting fierce and it be a 'pretend sort of aggression, meant as playful'. It that's not the case however, and they are truly fighting, practice teaching both puppies to stay on a Place bed and calmly watch while you play tug with the other puppy. Have someone reward the waiting puppy with kibble or small treats for staying calm while watching the game. Be sure to include the rewards! You want pup to associate the other puppy having the toy with good things for themself, not just feel jealous watching. Also practice Drop It with both puppies, one at a time, with you holding the tug toy. When they can both obey Drop It well playing with you, hold a long toy in the middle and encourage each pup to grab a different end, then practice Drop It with both pups on either end of the toy while you hold the middle. Reward with treats when they obey and keep the game boring and still if one pup doesn't let go - until they get bored and let go. When both pups can do that, encourage more tugging and play while you all three hold the toy, then practice Drop It while pups are a bit more excited. Gradually work up to pups getting more and more excited before commanding Drop It, and still being able to stop on cue and calm down to receive a reward. Finally, practice this with both pups but let go of the toy while they both have an end. At first, command Drop It while the game is still calm, rewarding for obedience. Wait until they get a bit more excited before commanding Drop It as they improve. It's important to include the rewards here, to build trust and create a positive association with playing tug with the other pup in a calmer way. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Patrick, First, at this age pup can be fed all of his meals via dog food stuffed chew toys (which slows his eating down and can be given in a crate or exercise pen to help with alone time), and as treat rewards for all the training and socializing you are doing at this age. When you do feed the dogs, feed them in separate areas, such as their own locked crates, so that no food competing can begin - which can lead to resource guarding between the dogs if left unchecked. Work on getting puppy used to touch and handling. Use puppy's daily meal kibble to do this. Gently touch an area of puppy's body while feeding a piece of food. Touch an ear and give a treat. Touch a paw and give a treat. Hold his collar and give a treat. Touch his tail gently and give a treat. Touch his belly, his other paws, his chest, shoulder, muzzle and every other area very gently and give a treat each time. Keep these times calm and fun for pup. Work on hand feeding, and when you do feed in the bowl, also practice feeding him his meals in sections. Feed 1/4 of his meal, practice making him wait before digging in by holding onto the bowl, pulling it back whenever he tries to dive in (without letting go of it first), and calmly saying Wait, then after a few repetitions of this, when he hesitates and doesn't dive in while your hand is still on it, let go of the bowl and say "Okay!" in an excited tone of voice, and let him begin eating as a reward for waiting. As he eats, when he isn't growling, toss treats next to his bowl as you walk past him. Practice this from a few feet away until he begins to look forward to you approaching. As he improves, decrease the distance that you pass from. When he finishes the first serving, toss a treat behind him and pick up the bowl while he is distracted eating the treat. Give the next portion, have him practice waiting again, then do the treat tosses while he east again. Practice this until he has all of his meal kibble portions at that mealtime. Do this at every meal as often as you can. As he becomes relaxed and begins to like you approaching him during meals, get closer and closer, so that you are eventually placing treats into his bowl while he eats. Ease into this so that he stays relaxed during the process. When pup does great with your presence right by the bowl, you can give a gentle pet and feed a treat as you do so. Pet and feed a treat, then give space and go back to tossing the treats to avoid stressing him too much. Expect this progression to take weeks, not hours or days. Do NOT stick your hand in pup's food, take the food away while he is eating, or pet him while he is eating without making the experience fun for him also - via giving better rewards in exchange each time. Messing with a dog while they are eating without the right protocols and rewards to prevent stress around mealtimes, can actually cause food aggression, rather than prevent it. The goal is to build pup's trust with you when it comes to meals - so he doesn't feel the need to guard it, but learns that your approach and taking things like bones, results in something even better happening - like a treat or new bone. Finally, check with your vet on how much pup should be eating. Many young puppies have such high metabolisms that they will eat an adult-sized portion by the time they reach 4 months old, even though they are so much smaller than they will be. You do not want to overfeed either, so check with your vet to get an idea of how much pup needs. My own retriever eats a 3.5 cups per day as a 6 year old dog. When she was 4 months old, she ate between 3-3.5 cups per day still. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello, does Milo have lots of toys to play with? When he wants to bite, replace your hand with the toy. Maybe a tug of war toy will do the trick. Young dogs are often teething, so be sure to have a teething toy on hand. Take a look here at the Obedience Method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-german-shepherd-to-be-calm. It is not too early to start teaching Max the commands he needs to know and the mental workout may calm the behavior as he will be mentally tired. Make sure that Max gets lots of exercise every day, too. Puppies do bite - it is how they communicate and play with littermates so please be patient as you train. These are good articles on what to expect from a puppy.https://www.lifedogtraining.com/freedownloads/. Good luck!

Hello, yes covid has been hard for many people - and pets. She used to be socialized? If this is a new behavior, please take her to the vet to rule out a medical problem (especially with so many things now making her anxious). I would try to get her used to the dog park again - go when it is quiet so that she is not overwhelmed by a ton of other dogs. If your cousin is willing to help, ask her to come often to give Fiona a chance to get used to other dogs again. As for your neighbor, go for walks often with her and have Fiona and the Husky puppy walk together (not closely) and gradually move them closer together after you have walked several times and Fiona is used to the pup. Of course, your neighbor will have to make sure that the new dog does not jump and frighten Fiona. Call a dog trainer in your area to set up classes, explaining that Fiona is a bit anxious. As for the car, let Fiona sit in the car with a treat a few times. Then, take her just around the block a few days. Gradually, over a few days, make the ride longer and so on until she is calm about it again. Take a look here for tips, too: https://wagwalking.com/training/get-along-with-other-dogs. All the best!

Hello Belinda, If the biting is rude, playful biting for attention, and not aggressive in nature, check out the articles linked below. If the biting is aggressive, I suggest hiring a professional trainer to work with you in person. Always take precautions with true aggression to ensure the safety of everyone involved. Step Toward method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-australian-shepherds-to-not-jump Leave It method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite Place: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O75dyWITP1s Out - which means leave the area: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-the-out-command/ Listening: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-doberman-to-listen-to-you Teach pup the above commands to build respect, make communication clear, and teach calmness. Reward times of calmness and when you catch pup doing something you want. When pup continues biting after being given a command they have already been taught, like Leave It, spray a small puff of air from a Pet Convincer at pup's side, then make them leave the room or use a drag leash that's kept on pup while you are home to supervise (to make sure it doesn't get caught on things) to enforce your command (such as by leading pup over to Place if you told them to go to Place and they disobeyed). All of this should be done as calmly as possible. Anger or excitement can make it harder for pup to respond, but being consistent, calm, and insistent with training and rules gains respect best. Only use unscented air canisters, don't use citronella - it's too harsh and linger too long, and don't spray pup in the face. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello, this is hard to assist with over a quick message; I would recommend having a trainer come in who can work with them at your home. Are they otherwise friendly and well-behaved when on walks? Do they listen and walk along with proper leash manners? If so, they may just have developed a noisy and extra rambunctious way of playing. There are tips here that may help you calm them down: https://wagwalking.com/training/not-play-aggressively and helpful videos here: https://robertcabral.com/ If you are concerned, I would call in a trainer as mentioned. Good luck with your active pair and happy training!

Hello, I can understand Monkee's position and support his actions 100%. If Fincher Mae bites Monkee all over, then the atmosphere is most unwelcoming. I could make suggestions to help the two get along, but based on the fact that Fincher Mae attacks you without provocation is concerning, and there is no point in having the two dogs together (it could be dangerous) until Fincher Mae is trained. If you think she is socialized enough to try dog training, that may be an idea but you will have to explain the situation to the instructor who will make a decision about her being in the class with other dogs. It may be best to have a private trainer used to working with aggressive dogs come to the house to work with you and Fincher Mae. You really have no choice because the older she gets, the more difficult it will be. Good luck with everything and please don't delay!

Hello, based on what you have told me, I think that the progress that has been made is very fortunate. I really would not attempt to rock the boat in any way. I think getting a cat or a special needs animal is potentially only putting them in danger and I don't think you want that. I would not add another dog to the mix. You are lucky that these two get along as they do. But I think the fact that you cannot have other dogs over for play dates only cements the fact that you would most likely regret trying to add a third dog. And do you want to put a dog into a risky situation with possible injury? I would hold off on other animals until after Mu and Zeta have crossed the rainbow bridge. Instead, invest your time, money, and energy in a trainer that can come to the home and work with your dogs. They can assess them and see if there is a possibility that they can be trained to associate with other dogs so that you can have canine company come over once again. Good luck!

Hello, Retrievers often have an innate sense of wanting to retrieve and it could be that Iska wants to retrieve the little dog and bring it back to you (not in a malicious way, but as a fun activity). Labs often remain quite playful into adulthood and may be overexuberant with animals that are smaller than them in particular. Prey drive is another possibility, and does not mean aggression. You will have to channel these drives into other actions if Iska continues to chase small dogs though, as problems could develop when she gets older. It is good that you have trained her a fair bit so far. I would continue with the obedience, and if you have not taken her to classes, now is a good time to start. This will expose her to small excitable dogs in a controlled setting and the trainer will be able to give you pointers for working with her. In the meantime, work on the Leave It command as described here (it's a biting guide but the Leave It Method works well in all situations): https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite. Once Iska has learned the command, she should stop what she is doing when you say "leave it." Also, work on solidifying her recall: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-whippet-to-recall. Good luck!

Hello. It sounds like you have your hands full! I am going to send you some training exercises you can use to help make your walks or outings a bit more peaceful. You can also apply the same methods for inside your home when you have visitors, or if there is anything else that triggers him. The first step is to reframe what an oncoming dog means to your dog. From a safe distance — your dog determines the distance, not you — have your leashed dog view another dog. As the new dog comes into view, drop a lot of enticing meat treats just in front of your dog’s nose. Ignore any hysterics for now, but back up and create more space if your dog is unwilling to eat. This part is hard for humans — I understand. It helps to see your dog’s behavior for what it most likely is: fear vs. disobedience. The training reinforcer MUST be a great one, such as real meat. It is critical that the appearance of the new dog causes meat to fall from the sky. When the other dog is out of your dog’s view, all treats stop. We want your dog to predict that other dogs near him means that YUMMY FOOD will appear! As you are reframing your dog’s opinion of seeing other leashed dogs, be careful where you take your dog, and be protective of what he is exposed to. One fight can create a reactive dog. Consider not walking your dog for 30 days as you reprogram his opinions of other dogs. Instead, sit on your front porch or in your garage with your dog on leash, and practice treating every time another dog comes into your dog’s line of sight. During this time, engage your dog’s mind with mind puzzles, obedience work, and fun stuff like games in the house or yard. You know you have made great progress when your dog sees another dog, and he turns his head away from the once-threatening dog and looks into your eyes, expecting a treat. Once your dog is looking at his (former) trigger and then looking expectantly up at you for a treat, you can begin to put this skill on cue. Tell the dog, sit, "watch me" or whatever command you want to use for this exercise. Remember to go slowly. You will see a significant change in his behavior after a month of consistent practice.

Hello Maria, When the two dogs start telling rough, you can help them learn to keep their play calmer by teaching them both an "Out" command. "Out" means: get out of the area. It's a bit like telling two human boxers to go to their corners for a minute. First, teach each dog the meaning of "out" individually: by calling that dog over to you, tossing a large treat a few feet behind her (so that she moves away from you), while you say "Out" and point to where you toss with your treat-tossing hand. When she goes over to the treat, praise her. After she eats it, tell her "okay" and encourage her to come back. Repeat this exercise until the dog will move away from you when you say "Out" and point, before you have tossed the treat. Once she starts moving to where you are pointing then toss the treat to her as a reward for obedience. Practice this, until she can do this consistently too. Once the dogs both understand what "Out" means, use it in other areas of life, like when you want them to leave the kitchen or not bother a person. If the dog obeys, give her a treat. If she disobeys, get between her and whatever she is supposed to leave alone and walk toward her until she backs out of the area and goes where you pointed to. Once she is out of the area, block her from coming back in until she gives up trying to go back. Once she gives up, go back into the area yourself. If she follows you back, repeat walking toward her to get her out of the area again. Imagine yourself as a linebacker, soccer goalie, or brick wall. You should be calm, but very firm and business-like when you do this. Now, once the dogs understand the "Out" command and have learned that you will enforce it, use it when they start playing too roughly. If they disobey, grab a pillow, put it in front of your body at the dog's level, and block the rough-house instigator and walk her out of the area, like you practiced at other times. Only do this if there is no true aggression, but just excitement. If there is real aggression during the fights, this needs to be handled differently, with more preventative measures to keep everyone safe. Your description sounds like normal dog rough play. Give the dogs a few minutes to calm down, practice some obedience like sit and down, and when both dogs are focused on you and calm, if you want to let them continue playing, you can tell the less excitable dog (usually your Border Collie) "Okay" first -- to see if she still wants to play. If she does, tell the second dog "okay" also. I also suggest teaching both dogs a "Place" command or "bed" command and really working on their obedience with that. You can use that command when they just need to leave each other alone. They do not need to be wrestling all the time, but since they are young they are going to want to without other constructive things to do. Teach a "Place" command and give each dog a fun chew toy on her bed -- one that won't cause fights and jealousy if that's ever an issue for them. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello! Thank you for all of the information. She is displaying typical puppy play biting, which is actually pretty rude in the canine world. She needs exposure to other dogs so they can nicely tell her this isn't ok. But that is tricky because you have no idea what the temperment of other dogs are. Often, older dogs will give a growl or even a little snap back and that is completely acceptable. That is where she learns what is ok and what isn't. Anything further than that is where you could potentially have to step in. So for now, just encourage as much play time as possible. If she does start to get a little out of hand, there is nothing wrong with removing her for a "time out" until she calms down a bit. But she will get it! With consistent trips to the dog park, or playful interactions with other dogs, as she approaches 6 months of age, she should be pretty well rounded.

Hello! So I am going to give you some tips on teaching recall. It is something you will have to practice to ingrain it into her so she is responsive in those settings. Recall: STAGE ONE – 'Catching' or Charging Up the 'Come' Cue Start in a distraction free environment so that your dog can focus only on you. Whenever your puppy or dog is coming to you on his own, wait until he is a couple of feet from you and then say his name and the word 'come.' When he gets to you, make a big fuss. With this exercise, your dog will learn that coming to you is a really good thing. After a while, you can lengthen the distance between you and start using the word when he is coming to you from a greater distance. Coming to you should always be rewarded, whatever the circumstance and no matter how long it took your dog to respond. Motivate your dog to come by being exciting, running away from him, waving a toy, or having delicious food for him when he gets to you. This will show him that coming back to you the best thing he can do. STAGE TWO – Solidifying the Cue Through Play Make sure you play the Back and Forth game with another person that your dog is comfortable with. Start the game in a quiet environment so it is easy for your dog to focus on you. Hold your dog back while the other person calls him excitedly. Try not to use his name or the cue word but talk excitedly to ‘gee’ him up. Do not release him until the person calls his name followed by the cue word “come.” When the cue word is given, release your dog and let him go running to the person calling. As soon as he reaches them they should praise and reward him with a game of tug or a food reward. When your dog has had his reward, have the other person hold him back as you call him and release as you say his name followed by the cue word. When he comes to you reward him with another game of tug or food reward. Repeat this game back and forth but only do a few repetitions so your dog does not get bored or too tired. Keeping it fresh means the game is always fun to play. STAGE THREE – Adding Vocal Cue With Hand Signal Inside Now your dog knows what the word “come” means you can use the cue word to call him to you while adding a hand signal to the word. Hand signals are always good to build with vocal cues so that even if your dog cannot hear you he will understand what the hand signal means. This is good if your dog is a distance away from you. Start in a quiet environment. Walk away from your dog and call his name followed by the cue word and a hand signal. Praise and reward him when he comes to you. Start increasing the distance you call him from and praise for his compliance. If he does not respond, go back to the previous distance and repeat. Only practice this cue for a few minutes so your dog does not get bored. The secret to success is to always keep it fun, exciting and fresh. When your dog recognizes the hand signal, try calling his name and using the hand signal by itself without the vocal cue. You will then be able to use a combination of vocal cue only, hand signal only and the two together. Now your dog knows what the cue word means you can start to call him from different rooms or from areas where he cannot see you. This will encourage him to respond even when you are out of sight. STAGE FOUR – Adding Vocal Cue With Hand Signal Outside Now your dog is consistently coming to you in a distraction free environment you can proof your recall cue by taking it outside. Practice the recall in your yard and then gradually build up to the point where you can use it in the park or similar environment. The ultimate test is to use the recall when your dog is engaged in a different activity. Wait for a lull in that activity and then call your dog to you. Praise his decision to comply.

Hi there! It sounds like she has the intensity of both breeds she is mixed with. And that is ok! We just need to work with her to become more balanced. There isn't one specific thing that corrects this type of overall unbalanced behavior. It is a combination of adequate exercise, routines, training, and conditioning. Making sure she gets plenty of heavy exercise daily. This can come in the form of walks, or even runs. Long games of catch if walking or running isn't an option. Time with toys like a Kong or Buster Ball will help also. Refreshing learned training commands. Making her perform commands like "sit" and "stay" before feeding, before giving affection, before leaving the house for a walk. That will teach her some control, and it puts you back in charge. People often stop training commands after a dog grows out of the puppy stage. But it is something that should always continue. It is one of the few ways we can actually communicate with them.

Hello! I am going to send you information on the nipping/biting. While this is a "normal" puppy behavior, it is something you want to put a stop to now before it becomes a learned habit. Nipping: Puppies may nip for a number of reasons. Nipping can be a means of energy release, getting attention, interacting and exploring their environment or it could be a habit that helps with teething. Whatever the cause, nipping can still be painful for the receiver, and it’s an action that pet parents want to curb. Some ways to stop biting before it becomes a real problem include: Using teething toys. Distracting with and redirecting your dog’s biting to safe and durable chew toys is one way to keep them from focusing their mouthy energies to an approved location and teach them what biting habits are acceptable. Making sure your dog is getting the proper amount of exercise. Exercise is huge. Different dogs have different exercise needs based on their breed and size, so check with your veterinarian to make sure that yours is getting the exercise they need. Dogs—and especially puppies—use their playtime to get out extra energy. With too much pent-up energy, your pup may resort to play biting. Having them expel their energy in positive ways - including both physical and mental exercise - will help mitigate extra nips. Being consistent. Training your dog takes patience, practice and consistency. With the right training techniques and commitment, your dog will learn what is preferred behavior. While sometimes it may be easier to let a little nipping activity go, be sure to remain consistent in your cues and redirection. That way, boundaries are clear to your dog. Using positive reinforcement. To establish preferred behaviors, use positive reinforcement when your dog exhibits the correct behavior. For instance, praise and treat your puppy when they listen to your cue to stop unwanted biting as well as when they choose an appropriate teething toy on their own. Saying “Ouch!” The next time your puppy becomes too exuberant and nips you, say “OUCH!” in a very shocked tone and immediately stop playing with them. Your puppy should learn - just as they did with their littermates - that their form of play has become unwanted. When they stop, ensure that you follow up with positive reinforcement by offering praise, treat and/or resuming play. Letting every interaction with your puppy be a learning opportunity. While there are moments of dedicated training time, every interaction with your dog can be used as a potential teaching moment.

Hello, I check out the article linked below and work on teaching the Leave It command from the leave it method first - work up to practicing with things like gloves and socks and clothing, then doing it while wearing the clothing after that, like the method outlines. Leave It: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bark My guess is that the person pup bites often vocalizes when he does it or reacts strongly - because most people do when something hurts a lot! Since pup seems to be doing it to gain attention or when highly aroused, that type of response likely encourages pup even more - they feed off of the excitement of a big response. As annoying as if is, try to wear shoes and thick pants while inside for a bit too - since pup is most likely to grab at those areas first when you are not low, to keep the pain to a minimum to save your skin and decrease loud startled responses pup may like. Keep a drag leash on pup when you are home to supervise to help you enforce rules better also. Work on the methods from the articles linked below to build respect and self-control calmly with pup - calmness is super important it sounds like. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-doberman-to-listen-to-you Also, practice working up to a 1 hour place command with pup to build those things as well. Place: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O75dyWITP1s You do need some type of consequence for the biting, but it a good leave it command needs to be practiced first so that pup develops self-control as a skill, understands what you want from them, and is given a chance to obey first, and doesn't just get more aroused when given a consequence due to not having enough self-control to be able to obey or understand what you want - right now pup likely thinks the consequences are you playing roughly or it just arouses pup even more. The consequence might be something you already tried but it also might be something like enforcing an Out command or drilling pup - which is when you clip a leash onto pup (or pick up the drag leash they are already wearing) and run through 20 commands in quick succession - like quick heel work with lots of turns and little praise or rewards, then sit, down, stand, stand, down sit, more heel, watch me, stay, ect... Working pup like this quickly and calmly without treats (think cadet drills without the yelling) can help pup calm back down, get pup into a working and calmer mindset, and encourage respect without being harsh. You can tell pup good when they obey, but the good should be an extremely calm almost matter of fact praise while doing this, not adding energy, just to let pup know they did it correctly. Out - which means leave the area: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-the-out-command/ Heel - Turns method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Sit: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-german-shepherd-puppy-to-sit Down and Stay: https://www.thelabradorsite.com/train-your-labrador-to-lie-down-and-stay/ Stand: https://wagwalking.com/training/stand-and-stay Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Omer, For the biting, check out the article linked below. Starting today, use the "Bite Inhibition" method. BUT at the same time, begin teaching "Leave It" from the "Leave It" method. As soon as pup is good as the Leave It game, start telling pup to "Leave It" when she attempts to bite or is tempted to bite. Reward pup if she makes a good choice. If she disobeys your leave it command, use the Out command from the second article linked below to make her leave the area as a consequence. The order or all of this is very important - the Bite Inhibition method can be used for the next couple of weeks while pup is learning leave it, but leave it will teach pup to stop the biting entirely. The Out method teaches pup that you mean what you say without being overly harsh - but because you have taught pup to leave it first, pup clearly understands that you are not just playing (which is what pup probably thinks most of the time right now), so it is more effective. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite Out - which means leave the area, is also a good command for you to use if pup is biting guests or kids who don't know how to enforce no biting themselves. Check out the section on Using Out to Deal with Pushy Behavior for how to calmly enforce that command once it's taught. https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-the-out-command/ Another important part of this is puppy learning bite inhibition. Puppies have to learn while young how to control the pressure of their mouths - this is typically done through play with other puppies. See if there is a puppy class in your area that comes well recommended and has time for moderated off-leash puppy play. If you can't join a class, look for a free puppy play group, or recruit some friends with puppies to come over if you can and create your own group. You are looking for puppies under 6 months of age - since young puppies play differently than adult dogs. A class can help with the fearfulness of new things too. Finding a good puppy class - no class will be ideal but here's what to shoot for: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/puppy-classes-when-to-start/ When pup gets especially wound up, he probably needs a nap too. At this age puppies will sometimes get really hyper when they are overtired or haven't had any mental stimulation through something like training. When you spot that and think pup could be tired, place pup in their crate or an exercise pen with a food stuffed Kong for a bit to help her calm down and rest. Practicing regular obedience commands or having pup earn what they get by performing commands like Sit and Down before feeding, petting, tossing a toy, opening the door for a walk, ect... can also help stimulate pup mentally to increase calmness and wear them out. Commands that practice focus, self-control, and learning something a bit new or harder than before can all tire out puppies. For the walks, it sounds like pup needs more socialization. I suggest taking pup outside and simply spend time relaxing, playing games, and training with treats outside. Pick a calm area like your front yard, then gradually choose other spots to take pup to and also spend time. Increase the amount of exposure pup is getting, rather than decreasing it to help pup overcome their fears, but work on calmer locations first, bring lots of pup's kibble or small healthy treats like freeze dried meat or liver treats, and practice fun activities outside to help pup like being there. Pay attention to any noises or specific things in the area like a dog barking that might be scaring pup and need extra attention making a fun experience. Reward pup for their curiosity and bravery outside especially. To get pup to listen better, use pup's meal kibble. Call their name and toss a treat each time you do so. When pup starts to expect a reward with their name at these times, then surprise pup throughout the day, periodically saying their name, then waiting until they look or start to approach you before you toss the treat. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello! Here is some information on nipping/biting. Nipping: Puppies may nip for a number of reasons. Nipping can be a means of energy release, getting attention, interacting and exploring their environment or it could be a habit that helps with teething. Whatever the cause, nipping can still be painful for the receiver, and it’s an action that pet parents want to curb. Some ways to stop biting before it becomes a real problem include: Using teething toys. Distracting with and redirecting your dog’s biting to safe and durable chew toys is one way to keep them from focusing their mouthy energies to an approved location and teach them what biting habits are acceptable. Making sure your dog is getting the proper amount of exercise. Exercise is huge. Different dogs have different exercise needs based on their breed and size, so check with your veterinarian to make sure that yours is getting the exercise they need. Dogs—and especially puppies—use their playtime to get out extra energy. With too much pent-up energy, your pup may resort to play biting. Having them expel their energy in positive ways - including both physical and mental exercise - will help mitigate extra nips. Being consistent. Training your dog takes patience, practice and consistency. With the right training techniques and commitment, your dog will learn what is preferred behavior. While sometimes it may be easier to let a little nipping activity go, be sure to remain consistent in your cues and redirection. That way, boundaries are clear to your dog. Using positive reinforcement. To establish preferred behaviors, use positive reinforcement when your dog exhibits the correct behavior. For instance, praise and treat your puppy when they listen to your cue to stop unwanted biting as well as when they choose an appropriate teething toy on their own. Saying “Ouch!” The next time your puppy becomes too exuberant and nips you, say “OUCH!” in a very shocked tone and immediately stop playing with them. Your puppy should learn - just as they did with their littermates - that their form of play has become unwanted. When they stop, ensure that you follow up with positive reinforcement by offering praise, treat and/or resuming play. Letting every interaction with your puppy be a learning opportunity. While there are moments of dedicated training time, every interaction with your dog can be used as a potential teaching moment.

Hello, It sounds like pup is becoming over aroused. I suggest teaching the Out command - which means leave the area, and recruiting some friends who have dogs that he gets along well with, going to a fenced in area (not the dog park where other dogs are around too), and practicing recalls and Out around the other dog(s) one other dog at a time. Out - which means leave the area: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-the-out-command/ Come - Reel in method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-whippet-to-recall Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Hannah, I would in general work on several commands that increase impulse control - this will take repetition and working her up to distractions gradually. Pup essentially needs an off-leash level of obedience to help with self-control, even though she is inside. One benefit of this, even though it will mean some work and time on your end, is that it should help pup learn better calmness and self-control in general and the training practice should stimulate her mentally, which can wear her out more. Place: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O75dyWITP1s Thresholds: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-w28C2g68M Out - which means leave the area: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-the-out-command/ Leave It method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite Quiet method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bark Place command: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O75dyWITP1s Down-Stay: https://www.thelabradorsite.com/train-your-labrador-to-lie-down-and-stay/ Heel- Turns method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Come - Reel in method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-whippet-to-recall Leash method for jumping: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-australian-shepherds-to-not-jump I would work up to pup doing a 1 hour place command, gradually adding distractions like toys and food being dropped, family entering and exiting the front door, and you dancing around silly, start with the basics of Place and gradually make it harder as she improves, consistently returning her to place when she breaks command due to distraction, and keeping sessions frequent but short. You want to work up to pup handling all kinds of silly things when guests aren't there, including the front door opening, then recruit dog friendly friends who are willing to practicing entering and leaving your home over and over again to work up to pup being able to handle that distraction also. Once pup has stayed on Place for long enough to become calm and bored, then let pup get up to greet guests with a leash on to practice the leash method from the article linked above. I would instruct guests who want to greet pup to command pup to sit, then feed pup a treat under their chin (not holding it above their head or that encourages jumping), so that pup starts to expect to automatically sit to greet guests and has a go-to behavior that they can't do at the same time as jumping. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello! Here is information on nipping/biting. Nipping: Puppies may nip for a number of reasons. Nipping can be a means of energy release, getting attention, interacting and exploring their environment or it could be a habit that helps with teething. Whatever the cause, nipping can still be painful for the receiver, and it’s an action that pet parents want to curb. Some ways to stop biting before it becomes a real problem include: Using teething toys. Distracting with and redirecting your dog’s biting to safe and durable chew toys is one way to keep them from focusing their mouthy energies to an approved location and teach them what biting habits are acceptable. Making sure your dog is getting the proper amount of exercise. Exercise is huge. Different dogs have different exercise needs based on their breed and size, so check with your veterinarian to make sure that yours is getting the exercise they need. Dogs—and especially puppies—use their playtime to get out extra energy. With too much pent-up energy, your pup may resort to play biting. Having them expel their energy in positive ways - including both physical and mental exercise - will help mitigate extra nips. Being consistent. Training your dog takes patience, practice and consistency. With the right training techniques and commitment, your dog will learn what is preferred behavior. While sometimes it may be easier to let a little nipping activity go, be sure to remain consistent in your cues and redirection. That way, boundaries are clear to your dog. Using positive reinforcement. To establish preferred behaviors, use positive reinforcement when your dog exhibits the correct behavior. For instance, praise and treat your puppy when they listen to your cue to stop unwanted biting as well as when they choose an appropriate teething toy on their own. Saying “Ouch!” The next time your puppy becomes too exuberant and nips you, say “OUCH!” in a very shocked tone and immediately stop playing with them. Your puppy should learn - just as they did with their littermates - that their form of play has become unwanted. When they stop, ensure that you follow up with positive reinforcement by offering praise, treat and/or resuming play. Letting every interaction with your puppy be a learning opportunity. While there are moments of dedicated training time, every interaction with your dog can be used as a potential teaching moment.

Hello Ramia, I recommend looking for a G.R.O.W.L. class in your area. Which is a class for dog aggressive/reactive dogs, who are intensively socialized together in the class through structured obedience under the guidance of the trainer, while all wearing basket muzzles for safety. If pup is aggressive toward you at all, I recommend getting professional help with the muzzle introduction too (pup should be in the crate when a trainer arrives). Go at the pace pup can stay relaxed at - expect the muzzle introduction to take 1-2 weeks going slowly, not just one session, if pup is nervous about the item. You want to go slow and calm so pup doesn't mind the muzzle ultimately. Muzzle introduction video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KJTucFnmAbw&list=PLXtcKXk-QWojGYcl1NCg5UA5geEnmpx4a&index=6&t=0s Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello, I think you are doing an amazing job with your efforts. You are right to be patient with the in-home training. Sometimes the training will take quite some time depending on the dog, and as you are seeing first-hand, some dogs do not get over their tendencies until months of training. Can you seek out group training where socialization is part of the package? Or group walks organized by a trainer who works with the group to have all dogs in the walking group socialized with each other by the end of the session of classes? Read this guide here and consider the Passing Approach Method: https://wagwalking.com/training/greet-other-dogs. Work on teaching Roxy to heel as part of her training in respect for you and it will carry over to obeying you in other instances:https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel. All of the methods described are excellent! But yes, keep working with the classes and the in-home training. You could also consider agility lessons or flyball where Roxy can get some of the energy out that is building up - as you most likely know and do, she needs long walks a couple of times a day. Good luck!

Hello Kendra-Rose, I recommend working with a professional trainer for this in person. Certain safety measures will need to be in place and you will need a group of people who can practice counter conditioning pup around people safely, one person at a time. Look for a trainer who specializes in behavior issues like aggression, works with a team of other trainers or training staff - so that pup can get used to multiple people to help generalize what she learns to people overall, and not just with the one person - the trainer, and who comes well recommended by their previous clients. It sounds like there is likely fear aggression happening, but even though the aggression may be fear based, safety measures like a basket muzzle and leash need to be in place most likely. I would work on desensitizing pup to wearing a basket muzzle. Look for a silicone basket muzzle because it will be the most comfortable and let pup open their mouth still for comfort and to receive treats while wearing it. Introduced correctly ahead of time, the muzzle can become something that doesn't cause pup any stress. To introduce the muzzle, first place it on the ground and sprinkle her meal kibble around it. Do this until she is comfortable eating around it. Next, when she is comfortable with it being on the floor with food, hold it up and reward her with a piece of kibble every time she touches or sniffs it in your hand. Feed her her whole meal this way. Practice this until she is comfortable touching it. Next, hold a treat inside of it through the muzzle's holes, so that she has to poke his face into it to get the kibble. As she gets comfortable doing that, gradually hold the treat further down into the muzzle, so that she has to poke his face all the way into the muzzle to get the treat. Practice until she is comfortable having her face in it. Next, feed several treats in a row through the muzzle's holes while she holds his face in the muzzle for longer. Practice this until she can hold his face in it for at least ten seconds while being fed treats. Next, when she can hold her face in the muzzle for ten seconds while remaining calm, while her face is in the muzzle move the muzzle's buckles together briefly, then feed her a treat through the muzzle. Practice this until she is not bothered by the buckles moving back and forth. Next, while she is wearing the muzzle buckle it and unbuckle it briefly, then feed a treat. As she gets comfortable with this step, gradually keep the muzzle buckled for longer and longer while feeding treats through the muzzle occasionally. Next, gradually increase how long she wears the muzzle for and decrease how often you give her a treat, until she can calmly wear the muzzle for at least an hour without receiving treats more than two treats during that hour. You can see the process done quickly with a dog who is already comfortable in the video below. Expect this process to take a couple of weeks with a dog who isn't used to the muzzle. Some dogs take to it quickly, some take longer. Go at your dog's relaxed pace. Muzzle introduction video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KJTucFnmAbw&list=PLXtcKXk-QWojGYcl1NCg5UA5geEnmpx4a&index=6&t=0s Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Asavari, Could you please include more details about what he does when he becomes aggressive, how you are playing with him, and whether he becomes aggressive in other situations also. It could be that pup needs to be desensitized to touch. Pup is getting too aroused and that's turning into aggression. Pup is fearful. Your play is challenging him in some way. He may be responding defensively due to a defense drive. A number of things can be related to a dog becoming aggressive during play. A dog may also seem aggressive when they are actually just acting like a dog - such as play growling and soft mouthed bites. In the case of a dog who is playing, play would need to be adjusted and pup taught some directional commands to help them be gentler, opposed to addressing true aggression in a different way. Pup's body language would need to be observed to help determine if pup was playing or not if that's suspected, like the presence of absence of a play bow for example. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello. Here is information on nipping/biting. Nipping: Puppies may nip for a number of reasons. Nipping can be a means of energy release, getting attention, interacting and exploring their environment or it could be a habit that helps with teething. Whatever the cause, nipping can still be painful for the receiver, and it’s an action that pet parents want to curb. Some ways to stop biting before it becomes a real problem include: Using teething toys. Distracting with and redirecting your dog’s biting to safe and durable chew toys is one way to keep them from focusing their mouthy energies to an approved location and teach them what biting habits are acceptable. Making sure your dog is getting the proper amount of exercise. Exercise is huge. Different dogs have different exercise needs based on their breed and size, so check with your veterinarian to make sure that yours is getting the exercise they need. Dogs—and especially puppies—use their playtime to get out extra energy. With too much pent-up energy, your pup may resort to play biting. Having them expel their energy in positive ways - including both physical and mental exercise - will help mitigate extra nips. Being consistent. Training your dog takes patience, practice and consistency. With the right training techniques and commitment, your dog will learn what is preferred behavior. While sometimes it may be easier to let a little nipping activity go, be sure to remain consistent in your cues and redirection. That way, boundaries are clear to your dog. Using positive reinforcement. To establish preferred behaviors, use positive reinforcement when your dog exhibits the correct behavior. For instance, praise and treat your puppy when they listen to your cue to stop unwanted biting as well as when they choose an appropriate teething toy on their own. Saying “Ouch!” The next time your puppy becomes too exuberant and nips you, say “OUCH!” in a very shocked tone and immediately stop playing with them. Your puppy should learn - just as they did with their littermates - that their form of play has become unwanted. When they stop, ensure that you follow up with positive reinforcement by offering praise, treat and/or resuming play. Letting every interaction with your puppy be a learning opportunity. While there are moments of dedicated training time, every interaction with your dog can be used as a potential teaching moment.

Hello June, Since they are both unneutered males its possible that the more dominant one is getting too aroused while playing and the play is turning into competing and aggression. I cannot say for sure without observing the interaction though. Is the issue primarily just happening during play, or at other seemingly random times - like when one dog walks past the other, too? If the issue is simply happening during play, I actually recommend not having them play together. That doesn't mean one needs to be re-homed though. Instead, teach obedience commands that help you encourage calm interactions inside, and don't put them outside with each other without supervision. Exercise them individually in other ways. The following commands can help teach both dogs to simply be calm around each other and give each other space. As dogs get older they don't need to play roughly with other dogs anymore. They do need companionship though, but that can be as simply as going on a walk together or just being in the same room as each other. Generally this happens more naturally as dogs approach 4 years old, for some a bit later. So you would be starting that early for both, 3 and under is still a puppish age. Here are several commmands that you may find useful, but I specifically recommend Place, Out and Leave It to teach them to spend time on their separate Place beds without bothering each other in the same room, and to give each other space. Place: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O75dyWITP1s Out - which means leave the area: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-the-out-command/ Leave It method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite Down-Stay: https://www.thelabradorsite.com/train-your-labrador-to-lie-down-and-stay/ Heel- Turns method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Come - Reel in method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-whippet-to-recall It's very possible that the behavior you are seeing is simply a part of their play style, in which case I recommend having a trainer who specializes in behavior issues observing them and their body language in person, to discover exactly what's going on. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Hannah, Its natural for a young energetic dog to want to play, so that isn't always a problem, but you will want pup to respond to your commands when its time to leave another dog alone, so I would focus on teaching commands to give another dog space, such as Leave It, Out, Heel, and Come. Once pup knows the basics of those commands, use a long training leash and practice the commands with pup on a long training leash so that you can enforce the commands when pup isn't listening around distractions, and teach consistent obedience. Leave It method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite Out - which means leave the area: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-the-out-command/ Heel- Turns method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Come - Reel in method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-whippet-to-recall Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello, Assuming pup is just excited and not aggressive, which is what it sounds like, lunging for a toy while playing fetch is very common. I recommend working on Drop It and Leave It with pup, and stepping on the toy before you reach down to pick it up so that your foot blocks pup from grabbing the toy up before you - which can be a fun game that encourages more lunging - like keep away, that you want to stop. Leave It: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite Drop It section of the article: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-to-fetch/ Out - which means leave the area and can help pup back up enough to not be tempted to lung for the toy before you grab it. https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-the-out-command/ Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Cayla, If you are currently going to a dog park with her I recommend pausing those outings. Instead, look for structured activities with other dogs that promote calmer interactions and more self-control. Things like a structured heeling or hiking group with dogs on leash, obedience classes or creating your own obedience practice with friends and their dogs, joining a G.R.O.W.L. class which is a class for dog reactive or aggressive dogs, and practicing obedience with you in locations where there are other dogs in the distance, like the park, to help condition her to be in a calmer mindset around other dogs. Some dogs are get over threshold more easily than others and when aroused and full of adrenaline it's easy for them to switch into that other gear and get into a fight. For those dogs, activities that encourage that arousal in that type of setting may never be a good idea. You can teach commands to help manage pup around other dogs in general, which I do recommend, such as a solid Recall, Leave It, and Heel, but their main social interactions with other dogs need to be structured activities. For the over-excitement with people and managing dog interactions, I recommend working on the following commands with her. Place: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O75dyWITP1s Leave It method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite Down-Stay: https://www.thelabradorsite.com/train-your-labrador-to-lie-down-and-stay/ Heel- Turns method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Come - Reel in method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-whippet-to-recall Sit method for jumping: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-australian-shepherds-to-not-jump Drop It: https://wagwalking.com/training/drop-it Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Paula, I would work on stimulating pup mentally also to help with the energy. I would also enforce breaks through quiet crate time with a dog food stuffed chew toy even though he may protest at first - puppies often need time to wind down or they can start acting out when overtired. I would begin teaching pup the beginnings of commands like Place too to help pup learn self-control as they mature and have a pretty high drive. To stimulate pup mentally you can have short training sessions where pup is learning something new or something they already know but a bit of challenge in the duration, distraction or distance involved in that command. You can add in training commands in games of fetch, walks, and throughout the day, to have pup do things like Sit before a meal, Down before you open the door for a walk, Wait before you toss a toy, Come to bring the toy to you, Heel, Down, Sit, Stay periodically throughout the walk, ect... You can feed pup part of their food via dog food stuffed toys like Kongs, kong wobbles, puzzle toys, automatic treat dispensing devices, or hide treats in a room or yard (pesticide free, safe area only) for pup to search for. Because of pup's breed he probably needs structure, physical exercise, mental stimulation, rest breaks to practice downtime, and consistency. Daily training practice, starting with easier things and progressing as pup learns, can accomplish a lot of those things, especially in combination with what you are already doing. Surprise method - for quietness in the crate: https://wagwalking.com/training/like-a-crate Some additional commands pup could benefit from over the next 6 months: Place command: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O75dyWITP1s Down-Stay: https://www.thelabradorsite.com/train-your-labrador-to-lie-down-and-stay/ Heel- Turns method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Mickey, I recommend working on a few commands to help build pup's self control. Leave It method for biting: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite Jumping article: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-australian-shepherds-to-not-jump I would also teach pup to go to Place, and gradually work up to pup being able to stay there longer and when there are distractions, so that pup can eventually be told to go to Place when people arrive, and stay there until pup is calm to greet. Place: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O75dyWITP1s Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Theresa, First, if you are visiting somewhere like the dog park right now, I recommend pausing that while addressing this. Recruit friends with well mannered, friendly dogs, to help you practice the Passing Approach method and Walking Together method from the article I have linked below, to help her gain a calmer response to other dogs approaching and teach her skills to cope. Practice with just one dog until she does well with them and has relaxed body language after several sessions with just that dog, then switch to another friend and start the process over again; repeating this with several different dogs gradually. Passing Approach and Walking Together Methods: https://wagwalking.com/training/greet-other-dogs Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden