The behavior of a dog licking is very natural. When they are puppies, dogs are licked by their mothers to encourage movement, to show love, to keep them clean, and to provide affection. Dogs grow up using their mouths to explore the world. If your dog licks your face as he greets you, it is because he is saying hello in the way that is most natural to him. Your skin is soft and smooth, which is comforting for your dog. Your skin may even taste salty and yummy for your dog, as much as it may be annoying to people.
Dogs also naturally lick their own wounds to encourage the healing process. Dogs will lick their paws excessively or their skin excessively to groom, clean, and to feel better. Excessive licking can not only be annoying to watch and hear, but it can also pose problems on your dog's skin. Licking wounds could cause potential bacterial infections or even pull stitches out if your dog has had recent surgery. Licking a paw excessively could indicate an injury you may know nothing about. At the same time, obsessively licking an injury could cause more damage.
Once you know your dog is safe, not injured, and only licking because of habit, you may want to begin to correct compulsive licking.
To ensure your dog is not licking his body excessively for medical reasons, be sure to have your dog evaluated by your veterinarian. Your veterinarian can check for things such as hay fever and allergy-related skin conditions. You can also talk about obsessive-compulsive disorders such as stress and separation anxiety.
Once your dog is cleared medically, if he is licking you to provide sweet puppy kisses or licking his body simply as a compulsive behavior you can address these problems with some retraining, positive reinforcement, patience, and lots of treats. Licking is a habit that takes time to forget. It might take your dog several weeks to forget this bad habit and replace it with a new habit.
We got Giga from the pound right before Hurricane Ida. So his introduction to our home was not ideal. My son and daughter came to stay with us to ride out the storm and because we have a generator. He bit both of them! Shortly after they arrived, he snuck up behind them and bit them in the calf. Actually he bit my daughter twice. When I called the pound, they said he had been returned twice for this reason. We failed to ask that before we adopted him! So now how do I introduce new people to him? Who wants to volunteer for that?! We tried the whole "ignore him when you come over, give him a treat" etc. But I had him on a leash when we tried this just in case. Do I just keep repeating that? He is fine when it is just my husband and I. But everytime someone comes over, I must crate him. He is in general,a good boy. Not aggressive,not a barker. He is learning to walk on a leash and he can sit on command. He loves to play, not too motivated by affection and praise, but treats. Please help. Thanks, E.
Hello Evelyn, I highly recommend working with a trainer who specializes in behavior issues like aggression in person for this issue. Look for a trainer who works with a team of trainers, so that there are multiple people to practice the training around who are "strangers" to pup and know how to interact safely with aggressive dogs. This process typically involves things like gently building pup's overall respect, trust, and listening with you so that pup doesn't pup isn't as possessive over you if that's an issue, so that their behavior is easier to manage, and so that they feel more secure and can defer to your leadership when in situations that make them uncomfortable. It also tends to involve gradually desensitizing pup to people, one at a time, with safety measures like a back tie leash or basket muzzle in place (introduced gradually ahead of time using treats so it's not just associated with the training and stressful). This is started with people being further away at first, and working on pup's obedience with you around the people in the background to help pup remain calm and not get overly aroused and fixated on the other person. This can sometimes also involve interrupting pup's aroused state with corrections like low level remote collar training, but that should only be done under the guidance of the trainer and with proper safety measures in place, because with any aggression there is always the risk of the dog redirecting their aggression to whoever is closest when stressed. Check out this video by Jeff Gellman, who specializes in aggression. Here he demonstrated safety measures (a back tie), when to have people reward a dog (during calmness and not during aggressive displays), and how to appropriately use punishment when treating aggression (with good timing, calmness, and in combination with positive reinforcement for calm behavior and with the appropriate safety measures for your "strangers" helping you). I only recommend doing this with the help of qualified training staff, with safety measures in place. Aggression video: https://youtu.be/mgmRRYK1Z6A Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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Daisy has taking a real liking to our 1 year old son and is jumping up at him and can sometime pin him down and lock him. Daisy will also follow him constantly. Do you have any ideas on what we can do to stop this behaviour?
Hello, I recommend the following methods to help pup learn some self-control and obedience around your son. Leave It method - to help with puppy biting and to generally help pup give space or not steal things from your son as needed: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite Out - leave the area - especially read the sections on how to teach it, and the section on how to use it to deal with pushiness - you can enforce Out on your sons behalf to teach pup to give space. Your son can also probably learn how to say out within the next year for himself too. https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-the-out-command/ Leash method for jumping - you can keep a drag leash on pup when you are there to supervise to make sure it doesn't get caught on anything, then you can simply step on the leash as needed to enforce not jumping, and have you and your son (with you help so he doesn't eat them too) reward pup for sitting instead of jumping with small soft treats, like freeze dried meat (stella and chewy brand makes these for example). https://wagwalking.com/training/train-australian-shepherds-to-not-jump When pup is being too persistent you can tether pup to you with a hands free leash too, teach pup to stay on Place and use a back tie leash that's got slack in it, to enforce when you aren't close, or use an exercise pen or crate with a dog food stuffed chew toy for pup to occupy themselves with. Sometimes pup and your son will simply need a break from each other for pup to calm down. Puppies also tend to lack self control when overtired, so being aware of that can help you know when to give pup some down time again. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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How do I get my dog to not jump so high on our neighbors´ wall and distract the other dogs?
Hello Randy, Is the behavior always happening when you are outside with pup? Or when you are not there also? If the behavior is happening when you are there, you can teach a Leave It and Out commands, and use a long training leash to enforce pup obeying. Reeling pup in when they don't listen and giving a treat when they move away from the wall willingly. Out: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-the-out-command/ Leave It method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite Reel In method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-whippet-to-recall If the behavior is happening when you are not present, in addition to the above training you would also need a way to enforce the new rules automatically. A pet barrier device, which would be placed near the wall and pup wear a corresponding collar, which would correct pup, when they got within a certain distance of the wall, is one option. Another option, is if the wall is part of a physical fence, like a wooden fence that goes around your yard. You can install an invisible fence two feet inside of your physical fence around the yard. The electric fence should help pup not to even approach the physical fence and wall so that he won't have opportunity jump against it to see over. The invisible in-ground electric fence should only be paired with the real fence and not in place of it though, or it will not be effective. There still needs to be a physical barrier so that pup can't just bolt through the electric fence quickly. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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I am trying to teach my dog paw, but he is stubborn and only licks my hand, no movement of any leg.
He also pees sometimes if we tell him no or when my husband puts leash on to take him outside
Hello! I am going to give you instructions for "high five" which is basically the same. I will then give you information about what sounds like submissive urination. For starters, you never want to grab your dog’s paw to try to teach them to high five. This won’t make much sense to your pup, but also, many dogs have sensitive paws. Grabbing the paw might actually make your dog afraid of the high-five trick. You will want to begin with your dog in a sitting position so they can easily lift their paw and have balance. And grab some treats! Place a treat in your hand and make a tight fist. Hold it at nose level and wait for your dog to grow impatient and paw at your hand. The moment they do, give your dog an enthusiastic “Yes!” then reward them out of your other hand. Repeat this five times. Place a treat in your hand and make a tight fist and hold it at nose level. Before your dog has lifted their paw, say “High Five!.” The moment they lift their paw and touch your hand, give a "yes!" then reward them out of your other hand. Repeat this five times. Next, we want to start reshaping the position of your hand into a true “high five.” With no treat in your hand, hold your flat hand up to your pup with your palm facing their nose. Say “High Five!” then ”Yes!” when they touch your hand with their paw. Reward and repeat. If your dog is having trouble at this stage, it might be because they don’t understand that the game works the same way even when your hand is flat, open, and empty. Before you repeat step three, try each of the following five times. Hold your empty fist in front of your dog. Say “High Five!” then, ”Yes!” and reward. Hold your hand as if you were holding a baseball. Say “High Five!” then, ”Yes!” and reward. Once your dog is consistently high-fiving, begin to slowly reduce the frequency of your treats. Start by rewarding them with food once every other high-five, then every third high-five. If your dog begins to struggle with the game, you know you’ve decreased the food too quickly. And onto info about submissive urination. Submissive urination can be a frustrating and embarrassing problem. Fortunately, it is often easily corrected. Shy, timid puppies are the most likely candidates for submissive urination but occasionally it persists into young adulthood. This problem is most common in female puppies under 1 year of age. Situations that precipitate submissive urination include: Over affectionate greetings Guests entering your home Arguments between people Scolding Loud noises Dogs are social animals that use subtle cues to maintain order and prevent disputes. In order to display deference to a more dominant individual, a submissive dog uses gestures such as averting her eyes, rolling on her back, and urinating. So when a dog feels intimidated or threatened, the appropriate response is to offer a submissive signal. These signals demonstrate that the dog recognizes another individual’s dominance. The urination that occurs is not a spiteful act but a natural part of a dog’s behavioral repertoire. Before embarking on treatment for this problem, it is wise to contact your local veterinarian. He or she will perform a physical examination of your dog to rule our medical problems that may be contributing to the predicament. If medical problems are involved, your vet will discuss the various treatment options with you like surgery, drugs, and/or various coping strategies. Note: Puppies become more confident as they grow older. Most puppies outgrow submissive urination before one year of age. Unfortunately, some owners inadvertently encourage the behavior by coddling their nervous youngster. Touching and praise, which you may believe are reassuring your puppy, are actually telling her, “Continue this behavior; I like it.” Instead, try to ignore timid behavior and praise the puppy when she is acting more confidently. Treating Canine Submissive Urination There are two objectives in treating submissive urination: The first is to increase your dog’s confidence, and the second is to avoid situations in which the behavior will occur until your puppy becomes more mature. Begin by observing which situations elicit the inappropriate urination behavior. Knowing these, you can design a plan of action. Take your dog to non-confrontational training school. Click and treat training is best. A properly trained dog is usually more confident. Try to expose your dog to as many novel environments as possible. But remember, do not coddle. Praise the dog only when she shows confidence and explores the new environment. Encourage confidence by playing tug of war, retrieving games or play fighting. Scolding and punishment DO NOT WORK. They only make the dog feel more powerless and less in control. Do not loom over the dog, touch her nape, or make prolonged eye contact. These are all dominant signs and will be interpreted as such. Ask strangers to avoid greeting your dog or, alternatively, crouch down to the dog’s level, avert their gaze, and gently encourage her to approach. Limiting your dog’s intake of water when you know guests are coming over can sometimes help. Pick up the water bowl (and close the toilet bowl lids) 3 to 4 hours prior to their arrival. Caution: some dogs with medical problems that increase their thirst should never have water withheld. If in doubt, check with your veterinarian. If your dog urinates out of excitement when you return home and greet her, try to downplay the greeting by ignoring her for a few minutes until she calms down. If the problem occurs when friends greet her ask them to do this, too. The above procedures help a great deal in avoiding urination whoopsies until the dog becomes more confident. Positive changes are usually seen in a few weeks, if not sooner. If submissive urination persists after 2 years of age, drug therapy can be instituted at the discretion of your veterinarian. And remember, be patient; accidents will happen. Prevention is the easiest way to deal with submissive urination. The right style of obedience class can be an excellent confidence booster for your dog. Such classes can also open your eyes to the ways that you unconsciously reinforce a negative behavior, and will teach you the importance of well timed praise (and other rewards) in a healthy relationship with your dog. Hopefully this helps! Thank you for writing in.
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i want my dog to stop jumping on people and stop licking people
Hello CJ, Check out the article linked below and follow the step toward and leash methods. Both can be used for jumping on you, and the leash for guests also. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-australian-shepherds-to-not-jump For the licking, I suggest teaching Leave It and Out - which means leave the area, and enforcing those commands consistently whenever pup attempts to lick. Leave it method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite Out: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-the-out-command/ Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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