Maybe it used to be fine for your only dog to take her time nibbling from her bowl as she chose, but now you have a new puppy who will scarf down whatever he sees, including your older dog’s food. Maybe your dog has always been a finicky eater, and you are sick of catering to her desire for kibble at four in the morning after she has refused to eat all day. Perhaps your vet has advised you that your dog is too heavy and that unless she loses some weight she will begin to have issues with her hips, heart, or other serious issues.
There are many reasons why we may want our dog to eat reliably at specific times, but getting her to do so may prove challenging. After all, you can lead a horse to water, but can’t make it drink, right? When it comes to dogs and their kibble, there are some reliable ways to make sure your dog eats when food is offered.
It is essential that you take full control of your dog’s eating schedule, if you are to convince her to eat at certain times. Have a serious talk with you family about how important it is that no one feed the dog, no matter how pitiful and hopeful she may seem. Do not give into your dog’s demands, even if she barks incessantly and paws her food bowl across the floor. Tell her you know she wants to eat, but that she will have to wait.
If your dog refuses to eat at the set time, you must remove the food and not allow access to it again until the set time, no matter how much your dog might beg and demand later when she gets hungry. Check with your vet to be sure of safety for your particular dog, but in general, a dog can go a day or a day and a half without eating with no ill effects. So, no matter what your dog might have to say about it, she is not, in fact, starving.
Make sure your dog’s food is both nutritious and delicious. Adding incentives like a little bit of wet food juice over kibble, or carrots and sweet potatoes mixed with the kibble, can encourage an unenthusiastic eater. Freezing chunks of food or adding water and heating kibble can make boring foods more interesting. Adding green beans can stretch out the food for dieting dogs.
Feeding out of food toys or spreading kibble over a clean hard floor to be searched out can slow down eating and make feeding time more interesting. Giving green beans, ice cubes, or rawhide chews between meals can help hold over the hungry pup. Never reward demanding behavior, but wait until your dog is calm to give her anything.
I have always left dry food out all day and Picasso could eat freely all his life. He had 3/4's of his teeth removed and now eats canned food. Picasso whines and will not stop until he is fed at 4am then whines and will not stop to go out at 6am. He goes out on a leash. Evening same 4pm eat 6pm go out will whine or bark to let me know. Eats all canned food. Give 1/2 in the morning and 1/2 in afternoon. Challenge how to move him to a more reasonable time to eat in the morning. His whining wakes me up and I cannot ignore because I cannot go back to sleep.
Hello Karen, First of all, make sure that he is getting enough to eat. Since the canned food is mostly made of water, compare the fat, protein, and carbohydrate amounts to the previous dry food that you were feeding and make sure that it is comparable amounts. Also, keep an eye on his weight. When you look at him from the side he should have a bit of a tuck-up at his abdomen. He should not have a line going straight across from his chest to his rear end without any tuck at his abdomen. He also should not have an extreme tuck. Run your hands over his ribs and back. You should be able to feel his ribs easily but they should not protrude and you should not be able to easily count every single spinal column along his back. There should be a little bit of padding. First, check that the calorie content is comparable to what he was eating before. If the amounts are good, then move onto my next suggestion below, but over the next month also keep an eye on his body fat to make sure that he is not gaining or loosing too much weight on the new food. If you determine that he is getting a similar amount of calories, then you can assume that he is asking for food simply because he likes the taste a lot more. It is time to play hard ball with him. He needs to be crate trained and to sleep in a crate in another room at night. He should be able to wait to eat just as well as before as long as he is getting enough food to eat calorie wise. His whining needs to be ignored. He has learned by you getting up to feed him, even just a couple of times, that if he is persistent that you will give in and feed him. If he is in another room, then his whining should wake you up less, he will be less motivated to continue the whining because he cannot see you, and he will learn to go back to sleep when he wakes up. Once he has learned to sleep through that early morning wake up time, then you can try moving him to your bedroom again. When you move him back into your bedroom, expect a couple of nights of early morning wake ups at first. Keep him in the crate in your room at first, and ignore the whining. Since you already taught him that whining will do him no good by having him sleep in the other room, he should give up much sooner and go back to sleeping in the morning in a couple of days. Bring a book or something to read when you transition him back to your room and maybe do it on the weekend so that you can take a nap later in the day. If he is not already crate trained, then follow one of the methods from the article that I have linked below. You can do all of the methods, but focus on the "Surprise" method the most. https://wagwalking.com/training/like-a-crate If you do not want to bring him back into your room once he is trained to sleep in the crate in another location, that is fine also. You can continue having him sleep somewhere else. You can also try getting up with him at 4am and taking him out, but then going an unpleasant activity with him afterwards and not feeding him until the usual time. This method is less likely to work but I have seen it work rather quickly before. The unpleasant activity does not have to be something punishing. You might pull him into the bed with your and make him cuddle if he is comfortable cuddling but it is not what he wants right then. You could also give him a bath or make him work on his obedience. Anything that he does not like enough to wake you up for that is not feeding him. Either way, do not feed him until it is within an hour of when you want to be feeding him in the long run. If you want him to wait until 8am to eat, then do not feed him before 7am. If you do feed him, then his body will come to expect food at that time and will biologically wake him up every day. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
Was this experience helpful?
We get up really early before work. Nico has been in the habit of waking us up before the alarm to have breakfast. He sleeps in the bed and will lick and wine until he's fed. Is there anything we can do to update his feeding schedule?
Hello Brittany, Crate train Nico using the "Surprise" method from the article that I have linked below. Once Nico can handle being in a crate and stay calm, when he licks you and whines to eat in the morning, then take him potty and as soon as you bring him back inside, put him into the crate until it is the time that you want him to eat at - decide what your ideal time is and stick to that time and don't give in sooner - so that you can can achieve that time of day. You want him to stay in the crate for at least an hour - longer if your ideal time is later. If you want to, go back to bed after you put him in the crate! https://wagwalking.com/training/like-a-crate You want to stop feed at that particular time (he can wait an hour or two just fine) and you can do this right away - as soon as he gets used to a crate in general. You want to stop feeding at that time so that his internal clock will reset. You also want to take the fun out of waking you up, which is why I suggest putting him into the crate when he wakes you up. It does not harm him, but it is boring, is not food, and will encourage him to go back to sleep. He will likely bark or whine in the crate to eat the first couple of days. Don't give into the barking and let him out early! If you do, then the training will just take longer. Consider it a test. You can also correct the barking if ignoring him is not an option. To do this you can use a small canister of pressurized air, called a Pet Convincer, blown briefly at his side (near his chest or rib-cage) through the crate (not in his face, and it should be unscented air - NOT citronella). If you have neighbors or a reason why you cannot ignore the barking, then you can correct it if he barks. Otherwise, simply ignore the barking for a few days. If the barking doesn't stop after three days, then start correcting even if you don't have neighbors to worry about. Since he is already used to waking up at that early time due to habit right now, you will have to take him potty to avoid an accident, but his body will likely adjust to waking later to potty eventually so that the potty trips at that time stop on their own once he is not being fed at that time. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
Was this experience helpful?
Hello, my name is Michelle and I have a problem. I have a chihuahua mix dog who is 5 years old and he is overweight. He's recently gained 4 pounds and he now stands at 23 pounds. I feel like his should weigh at least 10 pounds because he's the size of a pug or so and he's no where near the size of my other dog who is full chihuahua. I really want him to lose weight and I am unsure how to start this. My family and I would never had time before to give him food at a certain time because we would either have to go to work or school at different times, so we always left food out for him to eat whenever he wanted. But, now things got better for me and I now do classes online and my work time is 9am everyday so I get up at 8am for that. The latest I come home now is 6:30 pm. I really want to feed him to lose weight but I am not sure how to start the process. I started trying to feed them at a certain time but I also dont't know what time I should feed my chihuahuas, how much, and how to get them to understand that feeding time is at a certain time now and not any free time from the moment we wake up to when we got to bed. Also, is it okay to feed my dogs before bed time? That's basically the time when my other chihuahua decides to eat.
Hello Michelle, The first step is to find out how much food her day he should be eating. Most dog food companies have recommended amounts according to breed or what size the dog should be. Look on the food bag or the dog food company's website. For example, my 75 lb retriever eats slightly less than 3 cups per day. Half in the morning and half in the evening, so 1.5 cups per meal since I feed her twice a day. Pick times that are convenient for you at least two hours before bedtime and no later than two hours after you wake up with the dogs. This is not a hard rule but some dogs need to eat within two hours of waking up because of metabolism (others could go all day), and some dogs need to eat two hours before bed to give them a chance to poop before bed (or they might wake up needing to go in the middle of the night. The exact times do not matter and as long as it meets those requirements the time does not have to be exactly the same every night. (Think about your dinner, you probably eat within two hours of the same time every night but it's not always at 6:35pm on the dot. Decide generally what time you want to feed and how much food the dog food company's recommends (if it goes off weight you will have to base your feeding amount off of what Nathan should weight approximately and not what he does weight right now). Once you have decided those things, I suggest feeding two times per day. You can add a third meal during the transition if you feel the need. You will split that daily recommended food amount between the number of meals though, so that he is not getting any extra even if he has a third meal. To get him used to eating at a designated time, call him over to you, set the food down, leave it down for fifteen- thirty minutes, then take it up again. At lunch time if you are doing three meals at first, put both his leftover breakfast and lunch amount into a bowl, call him over, and put the food down for 15-30 minutes. If he is not eating it, remove it after 15-30 minutes. At dinner time, give him his dinner plus whatever was left from breakfast and lunch. If he doesn't eat all of it until dinner that is fine. Some dogs prefer to eat more in the morning and some at night. As long as he is given the total calories it is not important when he eats it in most cases. Take up his dinner after thirty minutes. If he is only picking at it you can leave dinner out until two hours before bed, then take it up also. Some dogs don't eat much at breakfast or lunch, but then make it all up at dinner at first. Others take about 3-5 days to figure out that they should eat every meal in thirty minutes or it will be taken out. As long as he is eating at least some of the meals and not showing signs of feeling sick from not eating, this is normal and he should transition over the next couple of days and improve. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
Was this experience helpful?
When I got my dog as a puppy, he always ate on schedule. He ate all of his food immediately when I sat it down. He ate his food so fast that I had to find ways to get him to slow down. One day he just decided he wanted to eat when he felt like it and didn't eat when i put the food down, so i left it down and that carried on for day and weeks and eventually turned into free feeding. He has been free feeding for about 2 years now and I am trying to switch him to scheduled feeds. I feel it will help with his anxiety, and also we are looking into getting another pup eventually.
I have been putting his food down at 6 AM and 6PM for only 15 minutes and telling him to,"eat." HE WONT TOUCH IT. Ive tried switching his food and I know its not that. Im starting to get frustrated and feel like a terrible mom, because he simply isn't eating but maybe 2 bites in a 24 hour period. This has been going on for 3 days now. What do I do?
Hello Lauren, First, I would actually ask your vet about the eating if he is only eating 2 bites per day for three days in a row - that's not typical whether you free feed or feed on a schedule. There could be any number of things like a Gi issue, food allergy, ect... (I am not a vet). You may want to look on both food bags and see what ingredients (including meat source, preservatives, eggs, or grains/potatoes) are common between the foods to help narrow down any possible allergies if your vet feels that could be a factor. If it could be a food allergy, try to find a dog food that eliminates the most likely causes (such as a different meat source, no eggs, different type of grain for example) and see if that helps. Make any switch gradually to avoid stomach upset. You can also make the food more appetizing temporarily if picky eating is the issue. Purchase a kibble topper, like Stella and chewy's or natures variety freeze dried meat topper. Measure pup's food for the next day into a ziplock bag and crush up the meal topper (it should crumble in your hands). Put the meal topper powder in with pup's kibble, shake the bag up and let it sit overnight so that the dog food will smell and taste like the kibble topper. Feed pup their meal the next day out of the ziplock bagged food. If pup is crate trained I also highly suggest feeding pup in a closed crate in a quiet area during meal time. Many dogs won't eat if there are others around. A crate is a place where pup can focus, not feel like they will be bothered, and where your future dog can't go (feed that puppy in their own crate too so they aren't bothering each other while eating). Some dogs need to be physically confined somewhere quiet and safe for a while with their food for them to eat. Pay attention to how much you are feeding pup. Have you decreased the amount of food he gets since he was a puppy? Most dog's metabolisms slow down some as they reach adulthood - so he could simply not be very hungry if you are feeding too much and he is overweight. Check out the article below to get an idea of what his physique should look like - not too skinny nor overweight: https://www.dogfoodadvisor.com/dog-feeding-tips/dog-ideal-weight/ Finally, if pup does begin eating more within 24 hours (3 bites isn't enough though obviously), then it's alright if pup decides they are only hungry once per day. Some dogs only want to eat in the morning or at night after a day of activities. Other dogs have less stable blood sugar or simply like eating twice a day so need 2-3 meals per day. If pup doesn't feel like eating until 7pm at night but eats well once he does eat and his weight and general health seems fine (not lethargic or vomiting from not eating in the morning), then that may simply be his preference. When in doubt consult you vet about health matters. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
Was this experience helpful?
My 2yr old boy has never been a greedy eater and I have found it hard to get him interested in actually eating his food. I've cut back on treats and I leave some dry food out for him, which he will nibble on throughout the day and lately this has helped him get his daily allowance of the dry food. Once a day I give him wet food, but for some reason he will only eat it just as we're going to bed and only if I sit on the floor and spoon the food on to the carpet for him as he's scared of the mat (which I have changed numerous times to find one he is okay with and he won't eat from a bowl). He is part Chihuahua and he can be very nervous, especially at the slightest sound, so we have to stay with him whilst he eats and stay completely silent. It's very frustrating, but it seems to work and he eats. I would prefer if he ate his wet food during the day, so we weren't having to hang around in the middle of the night waiting for him to eat his dinner. I have tried only putting the food out at certain times of the day, but he won't touch it until bed time. Any advice would be gratefully received. Thank you.
Hello Laura, First, I would speak to your vet about possible GI issues that might be causing him not to want to eat, such as an allergy to a common dog food ingredient, parasites, good bacteria imbalance, lack of digestive enzymes, infection, ect... (I am not a vet so consult your vet on whether a GI issues could be related). Second, what is his weight and physique like? Ask your vet about their opinion on his weight as well. He may not be eating the recommended amount but if his weight is good or he is overweight, it's possible that his lack of appetite has to do with too much food because of a naturally slow metabolism or something similar. Again I am not a vet so speak to your vet if that could be related. Third, is he crate trained? If he is, I suggest placing his crate in a calm location in the evening and putting his food in there with him and see if you leave it with him in the late evening if he ends up eating it. Some dogs aren't hungry in the morning and do not want to eat until the house is calm at night. If they will eat at that time in the crate (so the food is close and they remember to), that could be an easier and still safe way for pup to eat in the evenings without you having to stay up with him yourself. I would look at not just the flavor of his diet but the nutritional content, digestibility, and other health/nutrition factors as a starting point. I don't know what you are feeding now, but switching to something that is less likely to be allergenic and more bioavailable might be worth trying. For example, Natures' Variety Raw Boost Rabbit or Venison. I am not a nutrition expert and that food is just one example, so do your own research and consult those who are trained in disease and nutrition in dogs. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
Was this experience helpful?
Maya is a 2 year old Lab mix. She is a grazer who normally eats at night. We recently got a puppy who eats on a schedule. We would like to put Maya on a schedule as well. We don't know where to start.
Thanks for the question. Changing a grazer to a scheduled eater may take time but it will happen! I would start by giving Maya her meal at the same time as the puppy - but do the following. Give her less food to start, otherwise, she won't eat it all and it may be a waste. As she gets used to scheduled eating, you can increase the quantity to what she is used to getting. (I assume the puppy is eating a few small meals per day right now?) Add something yummy to Maya's food to make it extra palatable such as a little bit of low-sodium beef broth or olive oil - not too much, you don't want her to have an upset tummy. Lastly, do not feed the dogs side by side in case the puppy eats quickly and then goes after Maya's food. That will be upsetting. These steps should make the transition easier. The main thing is that you do not want Maya to feel pressured or to feel like the puppy will eat her food. Good luck!
Was this experience helpful?
Poco gained 10 pounds after three series of steroids for itching several years ago. So he has an act begging for food. 2020: overweight Poco has tracheal collapse and is on 1.3 cups of Hill's Metabolic daily. Poco is also on Temaril-P (another steroid). He has lost 5 pounds BUT I cannot sit down without his "demanding" to be fed. I do give in with 21 pieces of kibble after his 1/3 cup at 4:30 am (he wakes me up whining)), 10:30 am and 3:30 pm because he demands to be fed every 5 hours. When Poco is sated, he goes to sleep. (After his breakfast, extra kibble and a quick trip outside Poco has the nerve to RUN back to bed!)
CHALLENGE: how can ease Poco into an eating schedule that does not cause me so much stress (i.e his "needing" to eat at 4:30 am and demanding food throughout each day.) With Covid, I am home with Poco all day.
Hello Lorraine, I suggest feeding pup in a way that makes them work for their food - such as a frozen dog food stuffed chew toy or puzzle toy, rather than the bowl. As long as you give into the begging between meals he will continue to do it because feeding when he begs rewards that behavior and actually trains him to continue even more. Having him work for daily meals can tire him out better and slow him down in the eating process. You may also want to consult your vet about the steriod side effects and if anything can be done there. I am not a vet. To stuff a kong you can either place pup's dry dog food loosely in it and cover 1/2 of the opening with a larger treat - so the dog food will dispense more slowly, or place pup's food in a bowl, cover with water, let sit out until the food turns to mush, mix the mush with a little liver paste, treat paste, or peanut butte (avoid xylitol! - it's extremely toxic to dogs and a common sweetener substitute), place a straw through the kong's holes, loosely stuff the kong with the mush, place in a baggie, and free overnight. Remove the straw before giving pup and grab the kong from the freezer as needed - for a time-released treat. You can also purchase several durable hollow chew toys and stuff them at the same time so that you have a stash in the freezer to grab from as needed. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
Was this experience helpful?
he’s a hyper little 1 year old Maltese, he marks his spot in the house from other male dogs he barks when taking him on walks & for no reason sometimes, he eats freely, he don’t really listen to me or his dad.. he kinda has control over us and I’m trying to put him back in a good routine and feeding schedule
Hello, Milo is at the perfect age to start him in obedience classes. This will set the stage for a well-behaved dog all-around. Training will engage him mentally and which may calm some of the hyperactivity. Learning is hard work and good for the brain. Most likely Milo will thrive with the opportunity and also the socialization will help him get along with other dogs. To tackle the marking in the house, take a look here at the Refresh Potty Training Method and the Stamp Out Scents Method. You'll need an enzymatic cleaner to wash the marked areas, to completely remove the odor. For the barking on walks, work on the Passing Approach Method explained here: https://wagwalking.com/training/greet-other-dogs. Milo will learn how react when he sees other dogs. As for the feeding, Milo should be fine eating twice a day. Even if he eats a little and then wants to snack later, just give him the proper quantity for breakfast and once it is gone, he waits until his quantity is served at supper. Two measured quantities for his size, age, and activity level per day, making sure that the food is of good quality so that he is nourished properly. Good luck!
Was this experience helpful?
Champ went from eating instantly the moment food was put in front of him to caring less about food when it is put out. As a younger puppy he would eat out of maze bowls, food on the floor method or a slow feed ball toy just to slow him down. As time went on he clearly got bored of the ball and would eat significantly slower with the maze bowl. Recently we moved him to a regular bowl and he couldn’t care less about his food. We leave it out all day and he will go to it multiple times smell it and walk away. The food is fresh and we have even transitioned him to a new flavor of his food. We have mixed it with pumpkin. We have done everything and he just will not eat it unless we make a giant fuss and almost force him to eat it. This has now resulted in his feeding schedule to be so messed up that since he is finally getting half his “dinner” down at 10pm he now wakes up in the middle of the night to go potty which we were so happy we were finally getting full night sleeps just a few months ago. HELP 😅
Hello Matt, First, I would definitely check with your vet to see if something medical may be going on, like an allergy, infection, parasites, or bacterial imbalance. I would also tell your vet how much pup is being fed per day and what his weight should roughly be. Dog's metabolisms slow down significantly so food quantity could be the issue if he is eating but just not all of this food. - I am not a vet and this sounds like a potential medical issue so I would check with your vet first. I would also recommend trying to switch to something like Ziwi Peak. If pup does well on something like that and it's not in the budget, then you can gradually begin to mix pup's dry dog food in a bit at a time to transition back once pup is in the habit of eating well. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
Was this experience helpful?
Sissy has been an outside dog and has eaten at night. I want to bring her inside and feed in the morning. How do I change her feeding habits?
Hello JonaMarie, I suggest feeding both in the morning and at night to begin with. Once she is used to eating part of her food in the morning, gradually decrease how much you feed at night and increase how much you feed in the morning, until she is being fed all of her food portion in the morning. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
Was this experience helpful?
Would rather do the toilet inside, she is using pee pads at the moment, we stay in a top floor flat so it’s hard to quickly get her outside, she will occasionally go outside but sometimes we can be out for more than an hour before she goes which isn’t practical with two young kids, do you have any advice or tips
Hello! I am going to give you some training information on how to work with your dog to use a potty pad. Choose Your Spot Pick a space in your house where you want your dog to go. Obviously, you’ll want this spot to be a low-traffic area. Make sure this spot is easily accessible to your dog, and make sure the floor surface is linoleum or tile, as opposed to carpet. If your dog “misses,” it will be easier to clean up. If the only spot you can put the pee pad is a carpet, you might consider getting a small tarp to put underneath the puppy pee pad to guard against spillage. Choose a spot that is outside of your “smell zone.” An important tip to remember is to make sure not to let your dog decide the spot he likes. Not only might he pick an area you won’t like, but he’ll learn that he is in charge – not you – which can cause a host of problems down the line. Monitor Your Dog When you are potty training your dog, full-time monitoring is an absolute necessity. It’s impossible to correct bad behaviors if you don’t see them happen. Dogs have very short memories. It is important to catch your dog in the act. If your dog goes on the floor, and you try to correct him hours after the fact, he will be confused and upset, not knowing what he did wrong. This can hinder training and your relationship with your dog. Puppies, in particular, must be watched constantly. They have less control over their bowels and will go when they have to go. If you miss these moments, you lose precious training opportunities. Of course, it’s nearly impossible to be with your dog 24 hours a day, but try to spend more time at home during the weeks you are potty training – it will pay off in the long run. Learn Your Dog’s Schedule Dogs, for the most part, are predictable. They will go to the bathroom at predictable times. You should be able to learn when your dog has to go based on timing as much as on his signals. Take some time to study your dog’s bathroom habits. You’ll learn the amount of time after he eats or drinks that he has to go, and you’ll get in rhythm with his daily bathroom schedule. This will help you reduce accidents and speed up the potty training process. Studying your dog’s habits can also help you identify his bathroom “triggers” – like having to go after a certain amount of playtime. Once you learn your dog’s schedule, use it to your advantage in potty training. Bring him to the pee pad a few minutes before he normally goes, and encourage him. This will help him get used to going in the right spot, and help you establish repetition in your training. Choose a Command Word Dogs have keen senses – they respond to sight, smell, and sound. When you begin pee pad training, choose a command word and use it every time you take your dog to the pad. Just about any word will work. The tone of your voice is more important than the actual word. Try phrases like “go on” or “go potty” in a slightly elevated, encouraging tone. Make sure to repeat this same command, in the same tone, every time you take your dog to the pee pad. Avoid Punishment When your dog has an accident, it’s just that – an accident. When you punish your dog during potty training, he will become confused and scared. He doesn’t know what he’s done wrong, and can’t understand why the person he loves most is mad at him. Most importantly, it will not help his potty training. Positive Reinforcement Both human and dog behavior is largely based on incentives. Dogs’ incentives are very simple – they want to eat when they are hungry, play when they are excited, and sleep when they are tired. But the most important thing your dog wants in life is to please you. Use this to your advantage. Whenever your dog goes on his potty training pad, shower him with lots of praise. If he sees that he gets praise for doing his business on the pad, he will be incentivized to keep going on the pad – and he’ll be excited to do it! Potty training – whether it’s a pee pad or going outside – will take time, but if you do it right, can take less time. Many dogs are potty trained in less than two weeks. Just remember that you and your dog are partners. Do everything you can to help him learn the proper etiquette, and you will enjoy a long, quality relationship together. Please let me know if you have any additional questions. Thank you for writing in.
Was this experience helpful?
My dog gets fed twice a day, morning and at 5pm. But he routinely wakes me at 3 or 4am wanting food. How can I train him to not whine for food so early?
Hello MJ, First, I would crate train him if he is not already trained. When he wakes you early, if you believe he may need to go potty, take him potty outside on a leash, keeping the trip as calm and boring as possible, but don't give any food. When you return back inside, place him in the crate to go back to sleep, and either ignore or correct any barking that happens then (in the crate so he can't paw or pester you in other ways, right now). When it's the appropriate breakfast time, then let him out while he is quiet for at least a second and feed at that consistent time. His internal clock needs to reset to expecting to eat at the later time so his body isn't waking him up early to eat. To correct pup, first, work on teaching the Quiet command during the day using the Quiet method from the article linked below. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bark Second, during the day practice the Surprise method from the article linked below. Whenever pup stays quiet in the crate for 5 minutes, sprinkle some treats into the crate without opening it, then leave the room again. As he improves, only give the treats every 10 minutes, then 15 minutes, 20 minutes, 30 minutes, 45 minutes, 1 hour, 1.5 hour, 2, hour, 3 hour. Practice crating him during the day for 1-3 hours each day that you can. If you are home during the day, have lots of 30 minute - 1 hour long sessions with breaks between to practice this, to help pup learn sooner. Whenever he cries in the crate, tell him "Quiet". If he gets quiet - Great! Sprinkle treats in after five minutes if he stays quiet. If he continues barking or stops and starts again, spray a quick puff of air from a pet convincer at his side through the crate while calmly saying "Ah Ah", then leave again. Only use unscented air canisters, DON'T use citronella! And avoid spraying in the face. Surprise method: https://wagwalking.com/training/like-a-crate Repeat the rewards when quiet and the corrections whenever he cries. When he cries at night or early morning, after you take pup potty and return them to the crate, or pup cries before 7-8 hours (so you know it's not a potty issue), tell him Quiet, and correct with the pet convincer if he doesn't become quiet and stay quiet. Don't give treats at night/morning though - practice during the day proactively to help pup learn that quiet is good, since you don't want to encourage pup to stay awake in the early morning, but to go back to sleep instead. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
Was this experience helpful?
Sparky is my 10 year old shih tzu cross & he has always luckily had perfect weight and a free range feeding schedule. Kenji, my 5 year old Shiba Inu is 10 pounds overweight & so we have decided to put them both on a feeding schedule crating them for 15 minutes twice a day with their measured portion of food. They've both been eating very little and it has my husband and I concerned. Trying to be consistent but also a few days ago tried feeding them in separate rooms with little success to get them to eat much. Have tried and gotten them to eat a bit by placing a few pieces of kibble in front of them at feeding time. But they both are refusing to eat for the most part. I'm especially worried about Sparky given that he is not overweight to begin with. Any advice would be so helpful! Should we just be consistent, let them be kenneled for 15 min 2x per day with their food portions leaving them mostly alone? Should we stop the coaxing and begging them to eat?
Hello Karen, First of all, try to act a bit more nonchalant and confident about the whole thing so that pups aren't picking up on your nervous body language, which can be distracting for them. Second, I would extend the crate time to 30-45 minutes at first. If your schedule will allow, I would also add a third lunchtime meal until they are eating better, then go back to 2 meals later. That simply gives them more opportunities while learning. If your schedule won't allow, that's not completely necessary though. Third, I would add something to the food temporarily to make it enticing. I would try a freeze dried meat kibble topper, like Stella and Chewy or Nature's Variety. Crush the kibble topper into powder and place that and pups' kibble into baggies. Shaking it together and letting it sit that way for an hour or overnight. Feed pups there meals from the flavored topper - the taste and scent should help them get a bit more excited. Once they are eating well at regular times, go back to just 2 feedings a day, and very gradually over 2-4 weeks decrease the amount of powder used until you are back to a normal kibble feeding - you can also include kibble topper pieces in their regular food uncrushed long term if you want to as well though. Other options to try are goats milk and unsalted liver paste. I would recommend trying freeze dried first though since that will be easier to transition away from though. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
Was this experience helpful?
Shes growling and showing dominance over our one little Peke male. Also not eating twice a day. Should we feed her together with the other little male Pekes? We have 7 in total all males.
Hello Mandi, I would feed her separate from the other dogs, ideally in a closed crate without others around, to prevent resource guarding starting to happen or getting worse. I would also work on building her respect and trust for you and teaching directional commands, so that her treatment of the other dog is a reflection of her being willing to obey your instructions and give him space when you tell her too. Has she ever shown any form of aggression toward you? Or drawn blood from the other dog? If so, I recommend hiring a professional trainer who specializes in behavior issues like aggression to help you in person. There may be a bigger issue going on if she is also displaying any form of aggression toward you, that needs to be addressed more comprehensively and carefully in person, with additional safety measures in place. Building respect for you - especially the working method. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-doberman-to-listen-to-you Thresholds: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-w28C2g68M Out - which means leave the area: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-the-out-command/ Leave It method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite Quiet method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bark Place command: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O75dyWITP1s Down-Stay: https://www.thelabradorsite.com/train-your-labrador-to-lie-down-and-stay/ Heel- Turns method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Come - Reel in method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-whippet-to-recall Off- section on The Off command: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-train-dog-stay-off-couch/ Drop It – Exchange method: https://wagwalking.com/training/drop-it You can also practice things like calm obedience with the two dogs together, like Down Stay, (but with space between them for safety), and structured heeling walks, and rewarding pup for relaxed body language around the smaller dog (without the other dog seeing, so they don't run over and start a food fight). This also probably involves interrupting the subtle ways they are acting aggressive before a full lunge, growl, or attack happens, like staring, posturing, tensing, stiffening tail, looking puffy and dominant. These interruptions need to be done carefully for your sake, be well timed, and pup have a foundation of already trusting and respecting you, to be effective. That will be best done with the help of a trainer who specializes in things like aggression, and can do it carefully, calmly, confidently, and consistently (which all just happen to be C words haha). Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
Thank you. Kara does eat on her own. She hasnt shown any aggression towards me ever or drawn blood. I have a local pet behaviourist whom I will call to assist. Perhaps some obedience lessons are required.
Was this experience helpful?