How to Train Your Dog to Get Along with Other Dogs

Hello, Is pup is aggressive opposed to reactive toward other dogs on leash (pup tries to bite versus being loud but not actually harming another dog), then with aggression, I would see if there is a G.R.O.W.L. class in your area you can attend with pup, which will work on those types of interactions with everyone wearing a basket muzzle. If pup is reactive but not dangerous to other dogs, check out the Passing Approach method and the Walking Together method, starting with the passing approach method first. https://wagwalking.com/training/greet-other-dogs Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Hanna, How willing is your neighbor to train with you with their dogs? One neighbor dog at a time, with either enough space between to prevent a bite or a basket muzzle introduced and desensitized using treats ahead of time, check out the Passing Approach method. Once pups are doing well passing, then you can also practice the Walking Together method. https://wagwalking.com/training/greet-other-dogs Another option, especially if training with your neighbor is less of an option and the issue is mainly just when the dogs pass from afar, would be practicing desensitizing like the video with the dog in the fence I have linked below. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3n_fPKPLA2g&list=PLXtcKXk-QWojGYcl1NCg5UA5geEnmpx4a&index=10 Some dogs will redirect aggression to whoever is closest while aroused, putting the owner at risk. If that's the case with pup, I would desensitize pup to wearing a basket muzzle first and utilize that tool while training and around the other dogs until things show improvement too. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Isabela, I would see if there is a G.R.O.W.L. class in your area. A good way to do introductions with other dogs is to recruit friends with calm dogs and use the Passing Approach and the Walking together methods from the article linked below. After a few practice session of this, when the dogs can calmly walk side by side finally, take pups on walks together with both in a structured, focused heel. This gives both dogs something other than each other to focus on, keeps their energy calm, and helps them associate each other with the pleasant experience of a walk. Repeat this with lots of different dogs, one or two dogs at a time - you want other dogs to be associated with calmness, pleasant experiences, and boring things - not roughhousing, wrestling, nose-to-nose interactions always, or being rushed by them. If pup is aggressive when actually greeting, I would maintain a safe distance, practicing the passing just to desensitize. https://wagwalking.com/training/greet-other-dogs https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3n_fPKPLA2g&list=PLXtcKXk-QWojGYcl1NCg5UA5geEnmpx4a&index=10 Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Karla, I recommend seeing if there is a G.R.O.W.L. class in your area, which is a class for dog reactive/aggressive dogs, where the dogs are intensively socialized and desensitized to one another in a structured environment, under the guidance of the class instructor, while wearing basket muzzles for safety. Another option would be a private training group that has access to multiple well mannered dogs, where desensitization and counter conditioning could be practiced, and something like the environment of the G.R.O.W.L. class created for just your training sessions, starting with just one dog and rotating to new dogs as pup improves. Check out Thomas Davis from the Canine Educator on youtube to learn more. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Nicola, First, for this need I do recommend hiring a professional trainer who specializes in behavior issues like aggression and will come to your home to help you in person right away. Second, I would begin desensitizing both dogs to wearing a basket muzzle for safety and training purposes. To introduce the muzzle, first place it on the ground and sprinkle his meal kibble around it. Do this until he is comfortable eating around it. Next, when he is comfortable with it being on the floor with food, hold it up and reward him with a piece of kibble every time he touches or sniffs it in your hand. Feed him his whole meal this way. Practice this until he is comfortable touching it. Next, hold a treat inside of it through the muzzle's holes, so that he has to poke his face into it to get the treat. As he gets comfortable doing that, gradually hold the treat further down into the muzzle, so that he has to poke his face all the way into the muzzle to get the treat. Practice until he is comfortable having his face in it. Next, feed several treats in a row through the muzzle's holes while he holds his face in the muzzle for longer. Practice this until he can hold his face in it for at least ten seconds while being fed treats. Next, when he can hold his face in the muzzle for ten seconds while remaining calm, while his face is in the muzzle move the muzzle's buckles together briefly, then feed him a treat through the muzzle. Practice this until he is not bothered by the buckles moving back and forth. Next, while he is wearing the muzzle buckle it and unbuckle it briefly, then feed a treat. As he gets comfortable with this step, gradually keep the muzzle buckled for longer and longer while feeding treats through the muzzle occasionally. Next, gradually increase how long he wears the muzzle for and decrease how often you give him a treat, until he can calmly wear the muzzle for at least an hour without receiving treats more than two treats during that hour. Muzzle introduction video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KJTucFnmAbw&list=PLXtcKXk-QWojGYcl1NCg5UA5geEnmpx4a&index=6&t=0s Third, check out the article linked below and following the Passing Approach method until they dogs can do well with that, then switch to the walking together method, starting far apart again, until the dogs can finally walk together. I recommend starting this process now if you live close enough to your partner, because this will probably take a lot of walks, getting gradually closer overtime to get to the point where they are ready to walk together and greet. Passing Approach and Walking Together methods: https://wagwalking.com/training/greet-other-dogs Once in the home together, the dogs would need to be crate trained and to know a solid 1-2 hour place command. Life would need to be very structured and dogs played with and fed separately, to avoid competition early on. Basically home would be very obedience class-like when they were together, to prevent potential fights. I would work on building trust and respect for you and your partner with each of your dogs ahead of time also so that the dogs are not making and enforcing rules for the other dog once together, but looking to you to do so. You want to add in a lot more structure and boundaries for now, working on things like the working method linked below, teaching both a 2 hour long Place command, directional commands like Off, Out (which means leave the area), Down, and Leave It, so that you can tell them where they should and should not be in relation to being pushy with you or instigating with the other dog, and both should be crate trained and crated when not supervised, especially when you leave the home. Working and Consistency methods: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-doberman-to-listen-to-you Place: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=omg5DVPWIWo Thresholds: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-w28C2g68M Down-Stay: https://www.thelabradorsite.com/train-your-labrador-to-lie-down-and-stay/ Leave It: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite Out - which means leave the room: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-the-out-command/ Keep a drag leash on pup when you are present (and crate when not present) if they won't listen to your directional commands once learned well. Calmly lead pup where you tell them to go as needed by picking up the end of the leash. Have your partner, start teaching their dog Out, and Leave It right away too. If specific items are being guarded right now and that item can be removed, remove it at first. If either dog is guarding something like the Bed or couch while on it, teach Off and the new rule is 'no dogs on the couch or bed' until all aggression between them is improved and a good amount of time without fights or attempted fights or tension between them has passed. They don't have to be best friends right away, but they do have to learn that every dog abides by your rules in the home, and no fighting or doing things to instigate a fight is allowed. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden