How to Train Your Dog to Get Along with Other Dogs

Medium
1-2 Weeks
Behavior

Introduction

Let’s be honest for a moment.  As humans, we often meet people we dislike or that rub us the wrong way.  Part of being able to function in society, go to work and be social, however, is learning to get along with other people.  The same can be said when it comes to training your dog to get along with other dogs.  Even as an only dog in a household, Fido will often have to interact with other dogs when they visit the vet, go for walk,s or if they want to enjoy dog parks or other social and fun pet-centric events.  Learning good doggy social skills, therefore, is a critical part of your dog’s core training.

Defining Tasks

The extent to which your dog will need to be trained to get along with other dogs will depend on their individual personality and the level of interaction you foresee.  If you will be bringing an additional dog into the household, your pet will need to learn to share their space, toys, time, and resources with other dogs.  If Fido is the only pet, your dog will need to ignore other dogs while out in public or greet them politely when they cross paths.  Each of these skills will involve gradually introducing your dog to other canines and building positive associations with the experience of being around each other.

Getting Started

For the best results, you should begin training your dog to get along with other dogs as early as possible.  Starting your dog off young builds positive experiences that your pup can refer back to time and again as they encounter dogs in the future.  As with any training, you will want to have a wide selection of treats in a varying range of attractiveness or value.  Dry, bite-sized dog cookies, small pieces of cheese, hot dog slices, and cooked steak or meat are all good options.  You will need a sturdy flat buckle collar and a medium length leash, preferably with a second loop for shortening length if needed.  Finally, a calm and friendly neighborhood dog and their owner will be a great mentor and can often help to create good interactions and pawsitive reinforcement of doggy manners.

The Positive Reinforcement Method

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Positive Reinforcement method for Get Along with Other Dogs
Step
1
Distance and treats
This method for teaching your dog to get along with other dogs works well if you don’t have another pooch to help you practice. It can also be trained in a variety of settings. Start out on a bench or sitting well away from a path where dogs frequently walk. Every time a dog comes into view, immediately treat and praise your pooch.
Step
2
Getting closer
After several sessions, slowly decrease the distance between your dog and the path. Eventually you should be several feet away from other dogs but not close enough for the dogs to touch or interact. Remember to treat and praise every time they see a dog and react calmly.
Step
3
Parallel walking
After several sessions, walk parallel to the path, well away from other dogs. Try to keep your dog’s attention and treat and praise for good behavior and calm walking. Keep your dog a far enough distance away that they aren’t able to touch or interact with other dogs.
Step
4
The meet and greet
After some time of this type of positive reinforcement and acclimation, ask another dog owner with a calm, friendly-appearing dog if your pooch can say hello. Keep the initial greetings short and be sure to treat and praise immediately after the positive interactions.
Step
5
Repeat with multiple dogs
Repeat the positive introductions with multiple dogs of varying sizes and energy levels.
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The Introduction Walks Method

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Introduction Walks method for Get Along with Other Dogs
Step
1
Walk off energy
Start off by spending some time playing and walking with your dog. Many calmer dogs will often become nervous around others with higher energy levels. Working off some of their excess energy which will lead to calmer interactions between pups.
Step
2
Parallel walking from a distance
Start out by walking your dog next to a friendly dog from a great distance. This is called parallel walking. Your dog should be able to see the other dog, but not touch or interact. 15-20 feet is a good amount of distance. Sporadically give your dog treats and praise them for acting calm.
Step
3
Arcing paths
Walk the dogs towards each other in arcing paths towards each other. This will allow the dogs to approach each other but not actually interact. Treat and praise your dog for good, calm behavior, especially after reaching the apex of the arc and as your dog is walking away.
Step
4
Decrease distance
Repeat walking your dog in arcing paths, decreasing the distance at the apex of the arc each time. Remember to treat and praise your pooch for remaining calm. Towards the very end your dog should just be out of reach of the other pooch.
Step
5
Meet and greet
Allow your dog to meet the other, calm and friendly dog. You should approach the other dog from the side with the friendly dog remaining stationary in a sit or calm stand. Try to keep the leash slack and remain calm yourself. Repeat this introduction with a variety of dogs to build positive associations.
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The Teaching to Give Method

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Teaching  to Give method for Get Along with Other Dogs
Step
1
Prepping the toy
Start out by getting your dog excited by a favorite toy. Play a game of tug and otherwise let your pooch enjoy the toy. The idea is to make the toy valuable to your pooch so that they wouldn’t willingly want to give it up for nothing.
Step
2
Trading for treats
Take a treat in your hand and show your dog that it is there. With your other hand, grasp the toy. Move the treat near to your dog’s mouth and gently tug on the toy, prompting your dog to drop it and take the treat. Praise your dog when they release the toy.
Step
3
Add in the command
After several sessions of trading, add in a command word such as “give” or “drop”. You should say the command as you are removing the toy from your dog’s mouth.
Step
4
Remove the trade
After reinforcing the command word over several sessions, remove the trading aspect by saying the command without having a treat in hand. Your dog should drop or release the toy. When this happens, immediately treat and praise. If your dog doesn’t willingly release the toy, go back a step and reinforce the command.
Step
5
Repeat in multiple scenarios
Repeat this training in multiple scenarios, including with other dogs around, to help get your dog used to giving up and sharing their toys. The idea is to train your dog that when they release a toy they will receive a reward and positive reinforcement of their good behavior.
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Success Stories and Training Questions

Training Questions and Answers

Question
Storm
German Shepherd
9 Months
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Storm
German Shepherd
9 Months

She barks loudly
at other dogs and becomes aggressive hair stands up on her back etc

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
619 Dog owners recommended

Hello Jeff, Do you know how she does when up close with other dogs? (Don't test this on your own if not sure). Hair standing up is a sign of arousal. Arousal is connected with fighting and aggression but it can also be fue to nervousness or even excitement at times. See if there is a G.R.O.W.L. class anywhere within driving distance of you. These classes are for dog reactive/aggressive dogs, who all wear muzzles and are intensively socialized together in a structured environment. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Josie
pitbull
2 Years
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Josie
pitbull
2 Years

Josie absolutely loves people of all ages. She great with everyone including kids as small as 5-6 years old (never been around a baby), but super loving and curious to all people. Whenever a dog is around she goes insane, starts barking and tries pulling towards the other dog(s). Usually scaring the other dogs away. I want her to be able to be around other dogs without scaring them or hurting them. I want her to be able to make friends especially now that we live in an apartment with a dog park area for her to play in.

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Piper
Dachshund
3 Months
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Piper
Dachshund
3 Months

My puppy gets very excited about other dogs and barks and tries to run towards them with her tail wagging. But the second she gets close she cowers and growls at other dogs and tries to nip them. What do I do?

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Kipper
Border Heeler
1 Year
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Kipper
Border Heeler
1 Year

Hello,

Kipper was found by a dumpster with scars on her neck, and that's all I know about her past. She is over all a very calm sweet dog, and loves people! She gets along well with pretty much all dogs outside. She gets randomly aggressive inside, especially with my boyfirend's dog (female Akita mix). We have tried many different methods to integrate the dogs, but sometimes play turns to fighting very quickly.

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
619 Dog owners recommended

Hello Cassie, I do suggest hiring a professional trainer who specializes in behavior issues and aggression to help in person and be able to evaluate what the dynamics in the home. I also suggest working on calmly and consistently building pups' respect for the humans in the home. I also suggest teaching both dogs directional commands, like Place, Down, Leave It, and Off, so that the dogs can be told not to resource guard spaces, people, or things, to leave when being pushy or demanding, and to give the other dog space when needed. I suggest feeding and have both dogs sleep in separate locked crates to avoid stress around food and while unsupervised. I also wouldn't allow the dogs to roughhouse and play right now - since times of high arousal - like play, tends to lead to fights, work on both dogs working for what they get at home, simply exist together calmly and give each other space, and practice things like Place on separate dog beds/cots for extended amounts of time. Always be careful when working with any form of aggression to avoid a bite. Many dogs will redirect their aggression to whoever is closest while highly aroused. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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brownlee
Pit bull
2 Years
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brownlee
Pit bull
2 Years

we live in a house with no backyard so i take my dog on a walk 3 times every day. each time we see another dog mine goes insane and barks and jumps and tries to run up to the other dog. what should i do?

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
619 Dog owners recommended

Hello Lily, First, see if there is a G.R.O.W.L. class in your area. This is a class for dog reactive and dog aggressive dogs. It is an intensive socialization class where all of the dogs wear basket muzzles for everyone's safety and the dogs are walked together and socialized together to help overcome issues more quickly. Also, work on a very focused, structured heel. Check out the video and article linked below. He needs to start out the walk walking slightly behind you and not in front of you - because in front he cannot focus on you and is scanning the horizon for dogs. Starting out the walk right can make a huge impact on how a dog responds when they do see another dog. Heel article - The turns method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Heel Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTiKVc4ZZWo I would need more information to help further. If this is leash reactivity - meaning that he does fine with dogs while off leash or once he greets the dogs, then I suggest working on his respect and focus for you and correcting the behavior by keeping him extremely on task walking with you. If this is aggression and he is not alright with dogs in other environments, then you will need to deal with the root of the aggression and determine what type it is. If he is afraid you would work on pairing the presence of other dogs with good things while he was calm, in addition to building his confidence in you. If it is dominance, possessiveness, territorial, or protective, then you would work on building his respect and focus on you and desensitizing him to other dogs through a lot of practice heeling around other dogs from a distance that he can handle, with well timed corrections and well timed praise - there are several different exercises to work on for this. If this is genetic you are going to be looking at high level management since the root of the aggression likely cannot be changed. You would work on increasing his respect and trust for you, desensitizing him to other dogs, and having an advanced level of obedience so that he could respond to you even in the presence of high distractions. Check out Jeff Gellman from SolidK9Training for more details on dealing with aggression. If this is fear aggression, then you could also use a more positive reinforcement approach. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Sheba
German Shepherd
4 Years
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1 found helpful
Sheba
German Shepherd
4 Years

She is very territorial, she nuts up every time another dog comes in yard or where she can see them. When I take her to Petsmart to get groomed she doesn’t act like that. She goes from 0 to 100 in seconds. She is 100 lbs and I am a 66 year old woman, what can I do

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
619 Dog owners recommended

Hello Gayle, You need to hire a trainer who specializes in aggression and has access to other trainers on staff and well behaved dogs to practice around. Because of her strength it will be difficult for you to implement the training on your own so I suggest getting in person help. Look into Sean O'Shea from the Good Dog, and Jeff Gellman from SolidK9Training on YouTube. I still suggest hiring a trainer to help you though. Aggression is one of the things that often requires professional help. Many things can be taught on your own, but aggression often benefits from having assistance from someone who deals with it often, comes well recommended, and has the resources like other dogs, to practice the methods around. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Molly
collie spaniel mix
2 Years
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Molly
collie spaniel mix
2 Years

hello,
when Molly was less than a year old she was at a training class and another dog came at her to attack her. she did not get hurt. Now when we owned another dog she was super aggressive. they would fight over toys, when someone rang the door bell or just go at each other. we had to surrender the second dog it was getting to dangerous. I really want to adopt another dog. a tea cup yorkie. how do I train molly to be friendly with a new dog? thank you

Chenae

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
619 Dog owners recommended

Hello Chanae, First, you need to honestly evaluate whether she was the initiator of the fights, or if it was only your dog that you re-homed. If the other dog was the only one constantly starting issues, you may be able to add another dog but life with both dogs probably will never be able to look relaxed and unstructured because of her history. I know of others with dog reactive dogs who are able to add a second dog but you need to first work through your dog's general issues being around other dogs, which will probably involve working with a training group that specializes in aggression and reactivity and who has access to a lot of other dogs to work on desensitizing her. You will need to work on the resource guarding before adding another dog. Her life will need to be really structured, meaning she needs to heel with a lot of focus on you and walking slightly behind you on every walk (and not be allowed to scan the horizon looking for other dogs), she needs to wait for permission before eating, be fed in a closed crate, be crated trained, be able to do a 2 hour Place or Down-Stay command, know Leave It, Out, Come, and be very responsive to commands around high distractions, like other dogs running past. When you have established that level of respect, trust, focus on you, and obedience, then you can ease into introducing another dog by having Molly rotate between being on Place, in a crate, or on a structured heeling walk around the other dog - no freedom around the other dog at this point, only structured activities together with a high level of focus and management from you. Both dogs should be fed in closed separate crates to prevent resource guarding and stress around food, and toys carefully chosen and controlled when they have what. A household with a dog aggressive dog is possible but it will never look like a household with two dog-social dogs, and the Yorkie is small enough that it could easily be killed during a fight, and being bullied by another dog will cause a second dog to become fear-aggressive too - continuing the cycle. After a couple of years of careful management and structure with both dogs, they may become accepting and trusting enough of each other and respectful enough of your rules, that they can have more freedom with each other (always supervised still though). This often happens when things are managed carefully enough for long enough, but there are no guarantees that things will be able to be more relaxed. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Enzo
1/2 German Shepard 1/4 Bull dog, 1/4 Boxer
2 Years
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Enzo
1/2 German Shepard 1/4 Bull dog, 1/4 Boxer
2 Years

Hello. When Enzo was young, he was great with other dogs. Never had any problems. Then as time grew I noticed him playing more rough with the other dogs at the dog park, following their lead. So we stopped attending as much. Then about 6 months ago he freaked out when another dog was near and tried snapping at him. After that I limited his social interactions. Now I have two new dogs moving into my house, neither are aggressive. We've tried to get them friendly but Enzo is still freaking out. By this he is snapping his jaw and barking lunging at them when they are close by and I have to use all my strength to hold him back. Then at a further distance he is crying in a very high pitched sound, going crazy trying to get loose. We've tried having them sniff at each other. Using just the female dog to try and get them aquanted and Enzo just wont calm down. He doesnt care about treats or anything when this is going on either. What can I do? With the walking method, he just pulls and cries the entire time trying to get to the other dog

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
619 Dog owners recommended

Hello Taylor, It sounds like he may associate other dogs with the highly aroused state he was always in around them, where the dogs have to be a bit defensive, competitive, and overly-excited. Over-arousal can lead to fighting and frustration. You want him learn to associate dogs with something calm and pleasant, and not something really exciting or frustrating. He needs to practice heeling around other dogs from a distance, a high level Place command around other dogs also in Place, and a lot of other obedience where his focus is on you and the other dogs are just background information but not something he is supposed to be focusing on; to do this, his focus on you and respect and trust for you need to increase a lot, then you can gradually work up to getting him around other dogs while doing something structured like heeling, with the dogs in the distance. As he improves, you can decrease the distance between them and add more movement from the other dogs. Check out Jeff Gellman from solidK9Training. He specializes in aggression, fear and similar behavior problems and has hundreds of videos on Youtube. Sean O'Shea from the Good Dog also has several great videos, as well as The Canine Educator based in New York state. Aggression and reactivity can be harder to treat yourself and you will need a lot of volunteers with their own calm dogs to serve as dogs in the background while doing this. You also need someone to show you how correct effectively (avoiding a bite, the right level of correction, the right timing, and correcting the looking for dogs and tensing up to get his attention back onto you and off the dogs before a big outburst, ect...), and someone to show you what your attitude and body language needs to be like - very calm and confident, not anxious, angry, or overly excited. Because he doesn't have a bite history and hasn't drawn blood as far as you have mentioned you may be able to tackle his needs on your own if you have enough people with calm dogs willing to help you and you are able to do the research needed to understand how to do the training by watching tons of videos - but this will be a ton easier if you hire a trainer who specializes in behavior problems and trains similar to the trainers in the videos mentioned above, using mostly positive reinforcement but also a ton of structure, obedience, and boundaries, and the right about of corrections where needed to break through to the dog so they can be open to learning something better. Avoid trainers who use alpha rolls and extreme dominance type training. Effective corrections and structure aren't the same as pinning a dog to the ground just to make a point. Also, avoid those who do not have a lot of experience with aggression, many trainers only focus on obedience in class type settings (which is fine for those who need obedience, but not what you need and won't help on it's own). Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Willow
Mix
1 Year
1 found helpful
Question
1 found helpful
Willow
Mix
1 Year

my dog was fine with other dogs when I first got her(she was 6 months old). Then my daughters dog snapped at her. but not right away did I see a change in her. But it happened gradually. Now I think some of it is my fault. She is extremely aggressive for a 7 lb dog. Especially to puppies. With big giant dogs she want to play. I cannot get her attention to even focus on a treat or otherwise. I unfortunately out of embarrassment to other owners have held her mouth and picked her up. She loves loves people. And when no other dogs are around she is the sweetest. I cannot afford formal training but I think I made her bad, please help.

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
619 Dog owners recommended

Hello Maribeth, Check out the articles and videos linked below to work on her respect and responsiveness to you - which is the first step. It sounds like it may be fear-aggression but other types of aggression commonly surface around 1-2 years so you may have something else going on too. With fear and other types of aggression you want her to feel like she can depend on you to handle situations that make her nervous, and listen to commands related to how she should behave around other dogs. Place: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=omg5DVPWIWo Crate manners: https://thegooddog.net/training-videos/free-how-to-training-videos/learn-to-train-the-good-dog-way-the-crate/ Thresholds: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-w28C2g68M Heel article - The turns method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Heel Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTiKVc4ZZWo Dog Training Do’s https://www.solidk9training.com/sk9-blog/2016/09/08/the-ten-commandments-of-dog-training-and-ownership-do-2 1-2 years is a common age for aggression or fear related behaviors to surface because of the dog's mental and sexual maturity around then...protectiveness, fear-aggression, territorial behavior, possessiveness, dominance issues, and reactivity are a few common things that can pop up for some dogs during that time - it's often related to the dog's genetic personality, the type of leadership you provide, the dog's socialization level, competing with other animals, and instincts. Check out Jeff Gellman from SolidK9Training on YouTube, he has hundreds of videos on aggression and fear. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Hero
Great Dane
18 Months
-1 found helpful
Question
-1 found helpful
Hero
Great Dane
18 Months

Believe him to be dominant but not sure that's truly the case. It's hard to want to even try to socialize him because of his size (170 pounds, 38 inches at the withers). He was not socialized as a puppy. Not sure how to show him how to/reintroudce play to him (with other dogs). He injured another dog when he was corrected and lashed out.

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
619 Dog owners recommended

Hello Megan, Honestly, I wouldn't ever let him play off leash with other dogs again. His lack of socialization as a puppy, lack of impulse control exhibited when he redirected aggression onto another dog, and size honestly makes it unsafe for him - possibly forever. However, that doesn't mean you can't socialize him in another way. I highly suggest hiring a trainer who uses balanced training - including a lot of positive reinforcement in addition to some fair corrections, who comes well recommended by previous clients, and who is very experienced with e-collars. Due to his size, I highly recommend e-collar training his obedience after teaching it initially in a fenced in area using a long leash - which you will let drag most of the time to avoid being pulled over. Once he has some obedience and an e-collar intermediate level, practice his obedience with other dogs in the background, such as at parks and outside dog parks (not inside). Join an obedience class (even though he already knows the tasks at that point) and have him practice his obedience commands around other dogs. You can also create your own practice group with friends who are wanting to train their dogs. The goal is for him to perform calm, structured activities in the presence of other dogs - not to necessarily even greet them and not to play. Use the Passing Approach and Walking together methods from the article linked below to introduce him to other, calm dogs, one by one. When he does well with a variety of other dogs, join a dog walking or dog hiking groups through a local obedience club, social group like meetup.com, or start your own with friends. A structured heeling walk is a great way to socialize dogs together because their adrenaline is lower, they feel happy, they are more focused on you and the walk (if required to heel) and not on competing with each other, and it stimulates them physically - relieving tension. Wrestling with other dogs can increase arousal and adrenaline and make fight more likely. Heeling is calming when structured. https://wagwalking.com/training/greet-other-dogs Because of your dog's size, obedience training with a professional using the e-collar needs to come first though. Solid obedience will help with management in general so that you can then practice things around other dogs without as much risk. Check out James Penrith from Take the Lead dog training on YouTube to learn more about e-collar training, also called remote collar training. Only every use a high quality e-collar and the person training needs to know a lot about training with e-collars before beginning (whether you learn a lot or hire someone). You absolutely should not put the collar on your dog and just start pushing buttons. There is a very specific way to train to make them safe and effective at the correct level, without stressing the dog more than other methods. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Kylo
Cattle dog
9 Months
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Kylo
Cattle dog
9 Months

We would like to socialize Kylo but he acts aggressively toward just about every other dog we encounter. Is there a way to correct this behavior?

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
619 Dog owners recommended

Hello Christina, See if there is a G.R.O.W.L. class in your area. A G.R.O.W.L. class is a class for dog-aggressive or dog-reactive dogs, where the dogs are intensively socialized together while wearing basket muzzles, using structured exercises, more quickly. I wouldn't make your pup being able to run and play with other dogs the goal, but with professional help, would pursue pup being able to do things like go on structured walks, practice obedience, and calmly be around other dogs - things that keep dogs' arousal level low and calm, to make aggression more manageable and help dogs co-exist better. This is something that generally takes a lot of dedication and time to work towards from the dog's owner. A G.R.O.W.L. class could be a great way to get there a bit sooner if you can find one. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Layla
Lab mix
18 Months
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Layla
Lab mix
18 Months

Layla is a rescue we have had for about two weeks. She is very friendly- too friendly to other dogs, including our other lab mix (3 1/2 yrs old male). She briefly sniffs them, licks their mouths and then proceeds to jump on their heads and neck to play. And she doesn’t stop jumping even when the other dog backs off. She is wagging her tail, not barking and not growling at all. When I pull her away on a leash because the other dogs and owners look nervous she goes crazy yelping and howling- trying to get back to the dog to play. My dog has not yet snapped or acted aggressively towards her but he is clearly not interested in playing that way. She cannot be around him or other dogs without attempting to roughly play. She is living in a separate room now because I do not want them to have a negative interaction before I get some behavior advice.

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
619 Dog owners recommended

Hello Susan, I suggest teaching her Out and using the How to Deal with Pushy behavior section of that article also once she has learned what out means. Practice Out with her around your own dog, telling her Out as soon as she is unmannerly, then you enforcing the command using the pushy behavior section of that article. Out: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-the-out-command/ I also suggest playing "Jazz Up, Settle Down" with her. To play, get her excited with you, then suddenly give a command she knows well, like Sit, and then freeze. Stay frozen until she calms down and Sits - this is going to take her a few minutes at first. Repeat the command calmly one time after 2 minutes - if you think she has forgotten what's going on. When she sits, give a treat and calmly praise, then tell her "Okay, go play!" And resume playing. Practice this red light, green light game often. At first only get her a bit excited before giving the command - so that she CAN obey. As she improves, get her more and more excited before giving the command - so that she has to calm herself more and more. Only add more excitement when she gets to the point during practice where she can instantly obey - at that point make it harder and practice until she can instantly obey then too - then make it even more exciting, ect... During a walk, I suggest not greeting other dogs nose to nose for a while - you are headed for leash reactivity potentially. Instead, intentionally work on socializing her around other dogs in structured ways. Practice obedience command like Down-Stay and Heeling around other dogs - recruit friends who also want to practice with their dogs and create your own obedience practice class or join an intermediate obedience class. Check out the Passing Approach and Walking Together methods from the article linked below. Practice those methods with pup and friends with well behaved dogs. The goal is to desensitize her to other dogs and for her to learn to be calm around other dogs - you want other dogs to be pleasant but boring to her - not exciting playmates right now. Passing Approach and Walking Together methods: https://wagwalking.com/training/greet-other-dogs A structured wall is also super important for pup. Turns method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel More heeling: https://youtu.be/EcwvUOf5oOg If there is a local meetup.com or obedience club group that does structured heeling walks or hikes with dogs, that could be a fun and good way to socialize her more calmly. You want her focused on you and heeling behind you, learning to ignore the dogs around her (not greet every one), and just enjoy walking next to them. It becomes more of a working co-existing relationship between the dogs and is a good place to practice focus on you and respect for you around dogs - which can help and is needed. Keep in mind how service dogs behave around other dogs. They are extremely well socialized and play with other puppies while little, but then their socialization looks like calmly co-existing around other dogs as they mature. That's what she needs to prevent leash reactivity - learning structured, calm co-existance. That doesn't mean she can never play, but the emphasis needs to be on calmness now until she learns that, then calmness should be the norm with occasional play with the right dogs off leash (if you want to let her - it's not necessary). On leash is hard for almost all dogs to varying degrees though. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Cowboy
Corgie/Heeler mix
4 Years
0 found helpful
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Cowboy
Corgie/Heeler mix
4 Years

He has grown up with my other dog ,(Jackrussel Terrior mix),Jango. Jango is only seven months older. They get along wonderfully most of the time. However there are times when Cowboy will start getting snarly and snappy for no specific reason. Within the passed year Cowboy has gotten aggressive enough with Jango to give him 4 bite wounds. After the first incident I even get nervous when they get too close to each other on the couch with me. It seems even a sudden movement from me or even a certain sound from one of them can spark a ppotential incident. I feel I am living in a constant state of wwariness that they will injure one another. How do I prevent or troubleshoot these matters?

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
619 Dog owners recommended

Hello, First, I do suggest hiring a professional trainer who specializes in behavior issues and aggression and comes well recommended by clients, to help in person with this. You need to know what the dogs' body language is around each other and be able to observe subtle signs that the dogs are resource guarding people, places or things, or perhaps one bullying and intimidating the other, and the second one reacting defensively. It might not be obvious until a dog has pushed it too far and triggered a fight, but could be going on often, and needing to also be addressed right when there are subtle signs for you to learn to pick up on - if not already doing so. Additionally, I would work on building trust and respect for you so that they are not making and enforcing rules for each other, but looking to you to do so. You want to add in a lot more structure and boundaries for now, working on things like the working method linked below, teaching both a 2 hour long Place, directional commands like Off, Out (which means leave the area), Down, Leave It, and Off, so that you can tell them where they should and should not be in relation to being pushy with you or bullying each other, and both should be crate trained. Working and Consistency methods: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-doberman-to-listen-to-you Place: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=omg5DVPWIWo Crate manners: https://thegooddog.net/training-videos/free-how-to-training-videos/learn-to-train-the-good-dog-way-the-crate/ Thresholds: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-w28C2g68M Down-Stay: https://www.thelabradorsite.com/train-your-labrador-to-lie-down-and-stay/ Leave It: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite Out - which means leave the room: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-the-out-command/ Keep a drag leash on the dogs when you are present if they won't listen to your directional commands once learned well. Calmly lead the dogs where you told them to go as needed by picking up the end of the leash. If you see any signs of aggression toward you, pause and get professional help to deal with aggression toward you also. Training will likely need to be mortified to take extra precautions to keep you safe. Don't risk a bite. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Lilly
Mix golden and lab
6 Years
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Lilly
Mix golden and lab
6 Years

We have a 6 year old dog and a new puppy... our oldest keeps growling at the puppy everytime he approaches her. Suggestions please!?

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
619 Dog owners recommended

Hello Chandler, First, I highly suggest crate training the puppy. Almost all puppies will cry the first two weeks of crate training - it is new to them and they have to be given the opportunity to learn to self-sooth and self-entertain to prepare them for environments they will have to be in later and prevent dangerous destructive chewing habits that happen without confinement. Use the Surprise method from the article linked below to gradually help him learn to be calm in the crate and to relax by using rewards for being Quiet. https://wagwalking.com/training/like-a-crate Once pup is crate trained then life with both dogs can be a lot easier for everyone. Crate pup at night and when you leave, and you can use an exercise pen with some toys in it also. When you cannot directly supervise the dogs together, puppy should be crated or in the pen. When you are supervising, teach both dogs the Out command (which means leave the area) and make whoever is causing issues leave the area as needed. Out command: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-the-out-command/ Decide what your house rules are for both dogs and you be the one to enforce the rules instead of the dogs. No aggression, no pushiness, no stealing toys, no stealing food, no being possessive of people or things, no bothering another dog when they want to be left alone, or any other unwanted behavior - if one dog is causing a problem you be the one to enforce the rules so that the dogs are NOT working it out themselves. For example, if pup comes over to your older dog when she is trying to sleep, tell pup Out. If puppy obeys, praise and reward him. If he disobeys, stand in front of your older dog, blocking the pup from getting to her, and walk toward pup calmly but firmly until pup leaves the area and stops trying to go back to your older dog. If your older dog growls at your pup, make her leave the room while also disciplining pup for antagonizing if needed. Be vigilant and take the pressure off of your older dog - you want her to learn to look to you when there is a problem, and for puppy to learn respect for your older dog because you have taught it to him and not because your older dog has had to resort to aggression or she has to hide all the time. If you want pup to be free but don't want to chase after him while you are home, you can also clip him to yourself using a six-foot leash, so that he has to stay near you and not wander near your other dog. Whenever puppy enters the room, give your older dog a treat while pup is not looking. Whenever she is calm, relaxed or tolerant of puppy also give her a treat. Try not to let puppy see you rewarding her though so that he doesn’t run over and overwhelm her. Right now your older dog probably needs to feel like you are the one managing puppy, protecting your older dog from him pestering her, and making his appearance pleasant for your older dog. If you can take the pressure off of their relationship and help their interactions to be calmer, then she may adjust to puppy's presence as he grows, especially when he calms down when older. If your older dog is guarding you from puppy, being pushy, or displaying other behavior issues, work on building her respect for you also. Place: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=omg5DVPWIWo Thresholds: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-w28C2g68M Heel article - The turns method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Working method and Consistency method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-doberman-to-listen-to-you Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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benji
Maltipoo
4 Years
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benji
Maltipoo
4 Years

Benji is 4 years old and we put him in the stroller when in stores. the other day a nice service dog, collie, walked by us and he started growling, this is an ongoing thing ONLY towards dogs, not people. He is strictly MY dog and very possessive, my husband says he is just protecting me, is this true? I don't need him to actually want to play with other dogs, just want him to be congenial. what can I do, please

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
619 Dog owners recommended

Hello Julie, No, I would not allow the growling - it's actually a huge issue around Service Dogs because many people are depend on their service dogs to keep them safe and alert to important medical issues. If a service dog is distracted by another dog displaying aggression, it could put the dog's handler in danger because that dog is less likely to be doing their job well and is stressed. You might have been in a pet store or feed store, but be sure that you are not taking pup into any stores where civilian dogs are not allowed as it's illegal. With that said, it sounds like pup is being possessive of you and reactive toward the other dogs - this isn't the type of protectiveness you want. It's generally an issue with pup not respecting you and lacking socialization around other dogs while young. See if there is a G.R.O.W.L. class anywhere in your area. A G.R.O.W.L. class is a class for dog aggressive and dog reactive dogs who are all intensively socializes together in a shorter amount of time to help them overcome their issues with other dogs. It's often a very positive and structured environment which can be really good for pups. Second, work on building pup's respect for you. I suggest teaching pup the following commands and having him work for everything he gets for a while -by him having to do a command first. These are gentle ways to build pup's respect. He may even be happier with having more to do and more structure - adding structure can help with things like anxiety too. Place: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=omg5DVPWIWo Crate manners: https://thegooddog.net/training-videos/free-how-to-training-videos/learn-to-train-the-good-dog-way-the-crate/ Thresholds: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-w28C2g68M Heel article - The turns method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Heel Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTiKVc4ZZWo Working and Consistency methods: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-doberman-to-listen-to-you Also, don't tolerate any pushy behavior from pup right now - no nudging, barking at you, guarding things, or being pushy. If pup does any of those things have pup leave the room using the Out command. https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-the-out-command/ Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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max
Border Collie X
18 Weeks
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max
Border Collie X
18 Weeks

he not geting on with dogs

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
619 Dog owners recommended

Hello Paul, I highly suggest hiring a trainer to work with you on this if you are having issues this early. If you work on this early, pup can likely overcome it, but it becomes harder to overcome the longer you wait. Depending on the details of how pup isn't getting along with other dogs will effect the course of action. If pup is just shy, I highly suggest joining a puppy play group or kindergarden class that has time for off-leash, moderated puppy play under the supervision of the trainer. Pup will likely hide under your chair the first couple of weeks but typically curiosity will get the better of them and they will gradually start socializing with some of the lower key puppies in the class and get over their fears - which is very important for preventing fear aggression later. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Daisy
Lab mix
5 Years
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Daisy
Lab mix
5 Years

She came from an Indian Reservation. I had a trainer for a short time because when walking and seeing other dogs she would get excited. As time has gone on she is better but still to where she needs to be. This doesn't happen every time we pass a dog.

Darlene Stott
Darlene Stott
Dog Trainer and Groomer
66 Dog owners recommended

Thanks for the question. You've worked with a trainer before and know how beneficial and helpful that can be - good for you for helping Daisy in this way. If she needs brushing up on her basic commands, take her through the next level of obedience so that she can get even more comfortable and responsive to what you ask. The methods in this guide may work very well with Daisy since she is not acting out every time she passes a dog. https://wagwalking.com/training/greet-other-dogs As well, can you join a walking group in your area that has a variety of dogs on its roster and a trainer that is experienced with group dynamics? Ask your vet for a recommendation. Other suggestions can be found here:https://wagwalking.com/training/be-calm-around-other-dogs. All the best as you train Daisy!

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Ruby
Goldendoodle
3 Years
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Ruby
Goldendoodle
3 Years

My dog is spoiled and has anxiety and won’t get along with other dogs

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
619 Dog owners recommended

Hello, I suggest checking out Jeff Gellman from solidK9Training on YouTube. I also suggest seeing looking for a G.R.O.W.L. class in your area, which is a class for dog reactive/aggressive dogs, who are all intensively socialized together while wearing basket muzzles in a structured environment. Working on commands to build pup's respect and trust for you can often help with reactivity and anxiety as well. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-doberman-to-listen-to-you Out - which means leave the area: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-the-out-command/ Leave It method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite Quiet method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bark Place command: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O75dyWITP1s Down-Stay: https://www.thelabradorsite.com/train-your-labrador-to-lie-down-and-stay/ Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Sparky
Bulldog Schnauzer
10 Years
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Sparky
Bulldog Schnauzer
10 Years

We got Sparky from a shelter a few months ago and we’ve noticed he doesn’t get along with any other dogs. He can notice a dog from a distance and ignore it but whenever we try to meet him with another dog, he immediately gets aggressive and tries to fight. We really want him to learn how to interact with another dog.

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Stella
Mix- beagle and besenji
2 Years
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Stella
Mix- beagle and besenji
2 Years

Stella is very sweet to people. I tried introducing my fiancé’s dog almost two years ago and it didn’t go very well so my family and I didn’t bother introducing her to other dogs, which was our mistake. But now the other dog moved in with us and we live in the basement and she lives with my family upstairs.

We got a trainer and my dog is doing much better on walks. I’m able to be as close as 4 feet to the other dog without her freaking out. But I need her to behave in the house and I’m at a lost. I was wondering if you have ANY advice. I really don't know what to do

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
619 Dog owners recommended

Hello Eden, I suggest adding a couple of other things to what you are currently working on with your trainer. Practice the Passing Approach and then Walking Together methods from the article I have linked below, specifically with the family dog - so often that the other dog becomes boring eventually and they can finally walk together. Continue to practice general things on walks around strange dogs, but you want that specific dog to become normal even before pup can tolerate other dogs as a whole. https://wagwalking.com/training/greet-other-dogs Work on desensitizing pup to the noises and smells and other triggers that they associate with the dog being on the floor above them. Check out the barking- desensitization videos below. One of the videos talks about desensitizing to guests, but you will use the same principles with hearing the other dog's bark, walking around up stairs, and smells where he has been. Video 1: https://youtu.be/Jp_l9C1yT1g Video 2: https://youtu.be/X5BjvNScFPs Video 3 - guests: https://youtu.be/bpzvqN9JNUA When dog training classes resume throughout the country, I also recommend finding a G.R.O.W.L. class - which is a class for dog aggressive or dog reactive dogs, who all wear basket muzzles for safety during class and are then rapidly socialized with each other in a structured environment under the guidance of the trainer. Finally, check out Thomas from the Canine Educator on YouTube. He specializes in behavior issues like aggression and has a number of free videos where you can learn more about aggression and training on that YouTube channel. https://www.youtube.com/user/AmericasCanineED Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Misty
Mix
3 Years
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Misty
Mix
3 Years

She is really friendly, I feel like this time cooped up has made her forget that other dogs exist. When we go to the park she used to be the friendly dog, now anytime we go she lunges and barks/growls (especially larger dogs than her). Just want her to realize all dogs are her friends and not try to dominate everyone she see's because that is another thing, she always wants to be the dominate one to other dogs (humps and pushes them over when playing)

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
619 Dog owners recommended

Hello Kathryn, I suggest recruiting some friends, neighbors with dog-friendly dogs, or finding a local obedience club, rescue or meetup group that does group dog walks or hikes together. Practice the Passing Approach method from the article linked below to initially desensitize her to some friend's dogs, then use the Walking Together method once she is doing better to get her walking with other dogs - slowly closing in the distance as she gets calmer. The structure of the walk will help with the dominance and reactivity. The endorphins and pleasant association of walking and having a "job" around other dogs will help her associate them with good things again, without increasing the adrenaline and arousal usually present during rough play. Passing Approach and Walking Together methods: https://wagwalking.com/training/greet-other-dogs Once her overall attitude around other dogs is happy and calm again, even with new dogs, you can transition to play dates and see how she does. Some dogs do better playing just one on one with certain dogs or specific personalities and by doing structured activities with other dogs - like the walks. Others are fine in a larger group. Start with the heeling structured walks, then you can see whether she needs to keep it structured or you can reintroduce group play again. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Cosmo
Maltipoo
8 Years
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Cosmo
Maltipoo
8 Years

Our dog can be mean to other dogs. Not always, but often, when he interacts with another dog, he barks at them, growls at them, and tries to intimidate them. He is the aggressor. We think a lot of it has to do with his experience with our cousins dog, Sadie. Sadie is an Australian Shepherd. Cosmo and Sadie would both be together at our grandmas house, and Sadie would constantly stare at Cosmo and growl. She seemed jealous of him. They must have had a hard time ‘sharing territory’ since they both felt grandmas house was theirs. At this point, Cosmo showed no aggression towards Sadie, he just seemed scared and tried to ignore her. One day, Sadie attacked Cosmo and bit his neck and ear pretty good. Our uncle has to pry Sadie off of Cosmo. Cosmo had to get stitches in his neck at an animal hospital and be put under for a couple hours. He wore a cone for weeks after and hated it. He socialized with huskies and a young Malshi when he was young, but other than that, his primary dog interaction was Sadie. We would like him to be kind and non-aggressive to other dogs so he can be off the leash on walks. What can we do?

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
619 Dog owners recommended

Hello Alyssa, First, see if there is a G.R.O.W.L. class in your area and attend that if so when it becomes an option again with social distancing situations. A G.R.O.W.L. class is a class for dog reactive or dog aggressive dogs, who all wear basket muzzles and are intensively socialized together in a structured environment to help desensitize them to other dogs more quickly. All of this should take place under the guidance of a qualified G.R.O.W.L. instructor. Second, a good way to do introductions with other dogs is to recruit friends with calm dogs and use the Passing Approach and the Walking together methods from the article linked below. Start with the Passing Approach method and work on that method until pup can stay calm during each pass. At that point switch to the Walking Together method. After a few practice session of this, when the dogs can calmly walk side by side finally, take pups on walks together with both in a structured, focused heel. This gives both dogs something other than each other to focus on, keeps their energy calm, and helps them associate each other with the pleasant experience of a walk. Repeat this with lots of different dogs, one or two dogs at a time - you want other dogs to be associated with calmness, pleasant experiences, and boring things - not roughhousing, wrestling, nose-to-nose interactions always, or being rushed by them. https://wagwalking.com/training/greet-other-dogs Sometimes you can even find others to practice with through obedience clubs, meetup groups, or hiking groups. When he does greet another dog nose-to-nose, give slack in the leash, relax yourself, and keep the greeting to a max of 3 seconds, then happily tell him "Let's Go" or "Heel" and start walking away, giving him a treat when he follows so that he will learn to quickly respond to that command in the future. Keeping the greeting relaxed and short can diffuse tension and give the dogs enough time to say hi before competing starts. Avoid dogs that don't respect his space, pull their owners over to him, and generally are not listening well - those dogs are often friendly but they are rude and difficult for a nervous dog. Telling an owner that your dog is in training, is often a good polite way to request the dogs not meet. Also, avoid greeting dogs who look very tense around your dog, who stare him down, who give warning signs like a low growl or lip lift, who look very puffed up and proud - that type greeting with a dog is likely to end in a fight since your dog doesn't know how to diffuse that situation. A stiff wag is also a bad sign. A friendly wag looks relaxed and loose with relaxed body language overall. A tense dog with a very stiff wag, especially with a tail held high is a sign of arousal and not always a good thing. Before you allow pup off leash, also work on teaching pup a reliable off-leash come and off-leash heel so that you can call pup to your side to heel when another dog is ahead. Come and the PreMack Principle: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/train-dog-to-come-when-called/ Reel In method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-whippet-to-recall An off-leash heel is generally started just like a normal leashed heel, then as pup improves you practice the heel on a long leash so that pup is following because they are paying attention to you and not dependent on the leash - but you can use the leash to guide back when needed and prevent pup from disobeying and having inconsistent training. Once pup can heel in places like your neighborhood on the long leash, then also go places where other dogs are walking around and practice the long leash heel around other dogs - with pup learning to ignore other dogs unless told to "Say Hi". I personally prefer starting with a normal weight long training leash - like what you see online and in most pet stores, then going to an extremely light weight but strong one when pup is almost ready for complete off-leash work. Since your dog is smaller, you could probably start with the light-weight one too. The light weight helps the training transfer to off-leash better since pup is less aware of a leash being on them prior to taking it off completely. Whenever pup starts not coming or heeling again well, snap the leash back on for a month and do a refresher training course to deal with any issues - the refresher shouldn't take nearly as long as the initial training but at some point most dogs will test ignoring you again and need the refresher. Heel article - The turns method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Ely
American Bulldog
3 Years
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Ely
American Bulldog
3 Years

What he sees another dog he will pull and when the dog gets closer he Growls and try’s to bite he lives with a dog but doesn’t how a problem with her

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
619 Dog owners recommended

Hello Owen, I suggest looking for a G.R.O.W.L. class in your area, which is a class for dog reactive/aggressive dogs, who all wear basket muzzles and are intensively socialized together in a structured environment. I do suggest working with a trainer for this, especially since many dogs will redirect their aggression to whoever is closest while aroused - and pup may bite you if that happens. I also suggest working on the structure of your walk. You want pup to be working during the walk - having to stay behind you, focus on you, perform commands periodically, and not have his mind on scanning the area in search of other dogs. The walk should start with him having to exit your home very calmly, performing obedience commands at the door if he isn't calm. He should wait for permission ("Okay" or "Free" or "Let's Go") before going through the door instead of bolting through if that's an issue. When you walk he should be in the heel position - with his head behind your leg. That position decreases his arousal, reduces stress because he isn't the one in charge and the one encountering things first. It prevents him from scanning for other dogs, staring dogs down or being stared down, and ignoring you behind him. It also requires him to be in a more submissive, structured, focused, calmer mindset - which has a direct effect on how aroused, stressed, and aggressive he is - it makes him feel like the responsibility is on your shoulders not his around other dogs. Additionally, when you do pass other dogs, as soon as he starts staring them down, interrupt him. Don't tolerate challenging stares at other dogs. Remind him with a fair correction that you are leading the walk and he is not allowed to break his heel or stare another dog down. It is far easier to deal with reactivity when you interrupt a dog early in the process - before they are highly aroused and full of adrenaline and cortisol, and to keep the dog in a less aroused/calmer state to begin with. This also makes the walk more pleasant for him in the long-run. When pup passes other dogs and stays calm, reward the calm body language. Do not reward while tense and acting aggressive though, look for calm. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Dont know yet
E.b.t
4 Years
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Dont know yet
E.b.t
4 Years

Hello I'm wanting to adopt a 4 year old bullie however she doesn't get on with other dogs. Will it be easy to get her to socialize I have had previous dogs and am a responsible owner. I'd love to take her but eventually I would like a sociable dog
Many thanks

Darlene Stott
Darlene Stott
Dog Trainer and Groomer
66 Dog owners recommended

Hello, I would consider this carefully. You will have to put a lot of time and effort into training this dog - with no guarantee of success. Do you know much about her? Has she had aggressive contact with other dogs before? If it is just a growling, unsociable problem you may be able to change that. But unless you have a clear idea of what you are getting into, I would wait and think it over. First, look into trainers in your immediate area who are used to working with dogs that do not get along with others. Remember, you have to have the time (and money) to invest. I do appreciate that you are trying to help a dog in need - but just imagine how different things will be for you for example, if you adopt a needy dog who is super friendly and one you can take everywhere with you. That is much more rewarding and less stressful. A friendly dog needs you just as much as a dog who has issues. I hope this helps!

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Max
Siberian Husky
3 Years
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Max
Siberian Husky
3 Years

Max has a habit of getting on top of everything. From going on top of the kitchen counters, to the sofa to even some cars. How can I train him not to do such?

Darlene Stott
Darlene Stott
Dog Trainer and Groomer
66 Dog owners recommended

Max is very handsome! You're best bet is to teach him the off command - most dogs catch on quickly. Here are guides to read: https://wagwalking.com/training/stop-counter-surfing The Create an Alternative Method. https://wagwalking.com/training/stay-off-the-couch-unless-invited: The Command for Off Method. https://wagwalking.com/training/stay-off-the-furniture The Spot Method. Also obedience train Max in all of his basic commands and if he is trained already, brush up on them. Help him learn to listen to you: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-doberman-to-listen-to-you The Consistency Method is excellent. Lots of reading for you and many helpful tips. Good luck!

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Cub
Patterdale Terrier
9 Years
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Cub
Patterdale Terrier
9 Years

Hello!

I have a patterdale Terrier that’s a good house dog she’s good with people but gets aggressive and snappy and just doesn’t like other dogs!! However my sister wants to get a chihuahua puppy!! She’s not getting one because of cub! Because of her dislike of other dogs!! But she was just wondering if there would be a way to introduce cub to the chihuahua puppy and eventually get cub to accept the puppy without trying to attack and kill it!

Please can I have a response on:
[email protected]

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
619 Dog owners recommended

Hello Leanne, You would need to work on her issues with other dogs in general first, before I would attempt to add a puppy safely. See if there is a G.R.O.W.L. class in your area. That class is a class for dog reactive/aggression dogs, who all wear basket muzzles for safety and are intensively socialized more safely and quickly in a structured environment. If pup was able to overcome her aggression in general, then adding a new puppy would also involve a lot of management, boundaries, and safety measures still. Both would need to be crate trained, taught directional commands like Out, Place, and Leave It. Interactions would always need to be supervised and the dogs crated when not supervised, or puppy in an exercise pen. You would need to be the ones to provide clear boundaries and rules at home for both dogs - like no aggression, no guarding things, no pestering another when they want to be left alone, no stealing toys, ect...and be the ones to enforce that rules and not expect or allow the dogs to. Dog reactive dogs can get to the point where they can live with another, but it requires a whole lot of careful management and training honestly. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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