How to Train Your Dog to Not Kill Chickens

Hard
1-8 Weeks
Behavior

Introduction

Does your dog chase your chickens? Has he managed to slim down your flock of chickens or, worse yet, your neighbor’s flock? While dogs are predatory by nature for survival, this trait is not a behavior that most of us want to see in our dogs. One thing that many people fail to consider when they choose a particular breed to add to their family is that some breeds are more predatory than others and some were bred specifically to hunt certain animals.

While you cannot take away your dog's inherent desire to hunt and kill, with the right training, you can teach him to stick to eating out of his bowl and maybe just hanging out with the chickens. You never know, they might even let him become an honorary flock member. With training like this, the sooner you start, the easier it will be to train your pup to behave.

Defining Tasks

You can use your choice of commands as you train your dog to stop killing chickens, but no matter which command you decide to use, be sure you use the same one every time. At the same time, be prepared for this training to take some time depending on the breed of your dog. Some breeds are far more connected to their survival than others. While puppies tend to learn more quickly, with patience, you can teach any age dog to stop killing chickens or any other animal. This can help save your flock from becoming fast food as they run across the yard.

Getting Started

What you are likely to need to train your dog not to kill chickens will to a certain extent depend on the training method. However, you will need plenty of your dog's favorite treats, a leash, and tons of patience. Remember, you are trying to train your dog not to do something that is among his basest instincts, the desire to survive.

While it would be nice to train your dog not to kill chickens in a quiet atmosphere, most of his training is going to take place around your flock of noisy chickens. However, you do need to keep others (like the kids) away while you are working with your pup as they might prove to be too much of a distraction. No matter which command you will be using to train your dog to leave the chickens alone, be sure to use a firm "no nonsense" voice so that your dog knows you mean business.

The Proximity Method

Most Recommended
1 Vote
Proximity method for Not Kill Chickens
Step
1
Get close
While on a leash, take your dog out near the chickens when you are doing your chores. You can tie his leash to a post if needed. When he calms down, heap tons of praise on him, and of course, a treat!
Step
2
Occupy with commands
Once he has become used to the chickens, try working him through several basic commands like ‘sit’, ‘leave it’, and ‘down’. Watch him for signs he is no longer paying attention to the chickens.
Step
3
Lose the leash
Once this behavior has gone on for several weeks, try working with your well-behaved dog off-leash. Heap tons of praise for getting it right.
Step
4
Step back if necessary
If your dog fails, go back to the on-leash training program for a few days. Then try again. Remember, this is not an overnight exercise.
Step
5
Increase duration
Slowly increase the amount of time under supervision your dog is off-leash until he has learned to be around the chickens without dinner on his mind.
Recommend training method?

The Restrain Method

Effective
1 Vote
Restrain method for Not Kill Chickens
Step
1
On the leash
Clip your pup on his leash and walk him towards the chickens, praising him and petting him. Walk with confidence; if your dog senses you are nervous, he may react.
Step
2
Pull back
When your dog starts to show any type of aggression towards the chickens, stop praising him immediately. Keep a firm hold on the leash.
Step
3
Stop him in his tracks
If your pooch's body language indicates he is preparing to lunge, give him the "sit" and "drop" commands. If necessary, use the leash to slowly lower him to the down position and physically restrain him.
Step
4
Resistance is futile
As soon as your pup complies and relaxes, shower him with praise and give him a nice tasty treat. The positive reinforcement will help speed along the training nicely.
Step
5
Take a play break
Now is a great time to walk your pup away from the chickens and spend at least five minutes playing with him. Repeat this training exercise daily until he can walk up beside a chicken without being fazed.
Recommend training method?

The Distance Training Method

Effective
0 Votes
Distance Training method for Not Kill Chickens
Step
1
Get close
Walk your pup on a leash towards the caged or penned chickens. On the way there, practice his heel and sit commands. Start, stop for command, and move forward.
Step
2
Find a sweet spot
Move your dog to the point at which he first starts to react to the chickens and then move back to determine the distance at which he no longer reacts (this could take several attempts).
Step
3
Distract
Once you have the distance down, use a training clicker or your voice to make a noise. If your four-legged companion turns and looks at you, give him loads of praise and a nice treat.
Step
4
Close in
Continue closing the distance for several days doing the same thing. Patience, consistency, and following the steps exactly will push your dog toward success.
Step
5
Correct
When your pup gets too close to the cage, give the "leave it!" command and a gentle tug on his leash. Make the noise and reward him when he looks at you. Soon, there will be no reaction to the chickens.
Recommend training method?
author-img

Written by Amy Caldwell

Published: 10/24/2017, edited: 01/08/2021

Success Stories and Training Questions

Training Questions and Answers

Question
Amigo
Boarder collie
2 Years
0 found helpful
Question
0 found helpful
Amigo
Boarder collie
2 Years

I know he is killing my chickens but never see him do it or act aggressive toward them.

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
833 Dog owners recommended

Hello Sharon, I suggest teaching him a strong avoidance so that he doesn't go near them to begin with. Check out the YouTube channel that I have linked below. That trainer works with clients who are dealing with livestock chasing and killing behaviors. The training that he uses for sheep and cattle can also be applied to chickens as long as your dog has enough space to choose to avoid the chickens, opposed to be confined in the same house with them indoors like other small pets. Day 1. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lgNbWCK9lFc Day 2. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kpf5Bn-MNko&t=14s Day 3. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xj3nMvvHhwQ Day 4. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VxrGQ-AZylY Find a trainer who is very experienced with e-collar training and can teach the type of training found in those videos. In addition to doing what's called "Working level" training, which is when you use e-collars on the lowest level required to elicit a small response from your dog, such as a scratch or indication of feeling something annoying, and teaching the dog through repetition to get away from something, you will also later need to do what's called "Act of god" training, which is when a higher stimulation is given while no one is present, so that the dog thinks that the stimulation came directly from being close to the chickens and not a person. You train avoidance on a lower level first so that the dog understands that he should leave the chickens around, then when you use a higher stimulation later when you are not present, the dog understands what the correct is for and should learn that the correction will be given whether you are present or not. The higher correction is often needed for killing behaviors but if you do the lower corrections while first teaching this, you will be able to do very few higher corrections because the dog will understand the lesson. That makes the training more gentle and fair to the dog in the long run and also more effective. E-collars are powerful, potentially dangerous tools if not used correctly. They can also be extremely effective and more gentle than other methods if you know what you are doing with them. That is why I highly recommend getting a trainer to teach you in person how to do it effectively and safely. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Question
Bruce
Saint Bernard
12 Weeks
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Question
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Bruce
Saint Bernard
12 Weeks

My dog is 12 weeks, we got him at 7 weeks old. Hes shown interest in the chickens but use to sleep next to them with them and he was fine. Slowly over the course of a week or 2 he started sort of chewing on them softly he was never aggresive to them. Since that was noticed I confined them in their pen but sometimes tend to fly out, but he hasn't show to much interest since we put them in pen about 2 weeks ago even when they have gotten out. However, today within the last 30 mibnutes i went outside to see he had gotten one of them and it had died...im assuming he shook it to death and then started using it as a chew toy as there is only super tiny puncture wounds from his teeth. I have removed the chicken. How do I proceed? Also would you suppose his instinct to hunt them has now increased since he achieved a kill?

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
833 Dog owners recommended

Hello Brittany, He was likely trying to play with the bird and like you said shook it and broke it's neck. Since he wasn't tearing into it and eating it, he probably hasn't associated the birds with food, but will try to catch, chase, stalk, and shake them again if he can. He is practicing hunting - even if he doesn't realize it. He needs to learn a strong avoidance of the birds before he views them as prey to be eaten. I suggest purchasing a device that emits a signal out that is received by a collar. When a dog gets too close to that area the device is set up in, the collar gives an electric shock. (Not a dangerous voltage but enough to surprise a dog and be unpleasant to deter them from going near that area. You need to teach him to avoid the chicken coop completely and stop viewing the chickens as fun. You can put the collar on him (it works like an electric fence collar) and put the device he should avoid close to the chicken coop, then adjust the radius of the device's signal to the collar so that it only stimulates his collar if he gets within ten or so feet of the chicken coop, and not when he is further away. You may want to set up chicken wire for the chickens to spend time in by the coop so that he can see the chickens walking around and learn to avoid the actual chickens in addition to the chicken coop. Here is one example of such a deterrent device. https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Barriers-Adjustable-Proofing-Stimulation/dp/B002GQFRVI/ref=asc_df_B002GQFRVI/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198111066934&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1803624092535002102&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1015431&hvtargid=pla-545960881152&psc=1 Research different brands and be sure to find one you can use outside even during rain, and one that will let you adjust the range low enough that he is only corrected for getting close to the chickens and not twenty or more feet away. Also, work on teaching him a leave it command and using that when he pays attention to the chickens, to better help him understand that they are off limits. Check out the article that I have linked below and the "Leave It" method to teach the Leave It command. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Question
Athena
Labrador Retriever
5 Months
0 found helpful
Question
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Athena
Labrador Retriever
5 Months

My dog recently killed one of our hens even after i scolded her that its bad to chase it and even hit her lightly a couple of times because she chased the hen. When i'm around she makes no attempt to chase the hens or bite them but as soon as i walk off she starts to chase them and bite at them. She opened the door to their pen and beheaded and ate a hen. I don't know what to do and my mother wants to get rid of my dog because she killed her hen. Could you please help me out with my dilemma regarding my dog?

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
833 Dog owners recommended

Hello Habiba, I suggest teaching a strong avoidance of the birds the way someone would teach livestock avoidance. Continue to separate the animals in general, but work on teaching an avoidance of the birds as a back up - in case the birds were to get out and to prevent break-ins. Hire a trainer who is very experienced with remote collar training, aggression, and prey drive to help you. Check out the videos linked below for examples of how to teach it. Day 1. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lgNbWCK9lFc Day 2. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kpf5Bn-MNko&t=14s Day 3. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xj3nMvvHhwQ Day 4. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VxrGQ-AZylY Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Question
Checkers
Saint Bernard
4 Months
0 found helpful
Question
0 found helpful
Checkers
Saint Bernard
4 Months

Calm around chickens while supervised, but kills when unsupervised.

Alisha Smith
Alisha S., Dog Trainer
225 Dog owners recommended

Hi there. This is something that with some time and patience, can be turned around. Shaggy needs to learn that the chickens are just a normal part of the household. So we need to teach him to become less excited by the chickens. If you are up for this, it is going to take about a month of consistent practice before you see results. You will want to start out by teaching him "leave it". Leave is great for anything you want your dog to leave alone. Instructions on leave it will be at the end of this response. After about a week or so of working on the command, you can start taking him out on leash.Any time the even looks at a chicken, you give the command leave it. Once he breaks his attention away from the chicken, you reward him with a treat. Ideally, you want to him to be sitting and looking at you. But in the beginning stages, as long as he isn't focused on the chicken, you can reward him. You will literally practice this over and over, while moving closer to the chickens until he is no longer interested in the chickens. While this method takes a while, it is the best in relaying the messages across to your dogs. The chickens need to be left alone! Here are the steps for "leave it" Teaching a dog 'leave it' Teaching “leave it” is not difficult. Begin the lessons inside your home or in an area with very few distractions. Here are the steps for teaching “leave it”: Make sure you have two different types of treats. One type can be fairly boring to the dog, but the other type should be a high-value treat that he finds pretty delicious. You will also want to make sure that the treats are broken up into pea-sized pieces so it won’t take him too long to eat them. Put one type of treat in each hand. If you like to train with a clicker as your marker, you can also hold a clicker in the same hand that holds the high-value treat. Then, place both of your hands behind your back. Make a fist with the hand that is holding the treat of lower value and present your fist to your dog, letting him sniff. Say “leave it” and wait until he finishes sniffing your fist. As soon as your dog is done sniffing, you can either click with the clicker or say “yes.” Then offer him the higher-value treat in your other hand. Repeat until your dog immediately stops sniffing your hand when you say “leave it.” When you say “leave it” and he stops sniffing right away, leash your dog and then toss a low-value treat outside of his reach. Wait until he stops sniffing and pulling toward the treat. As soon as he does, either say “yes” or click and then give him a high-value treat from your hand. Practice this exercise a number of times. Over time, by practicing “leave it,” your dog should stop pulling as soon as you give the cue. When rewarding him with a treat, make sure that it is something good, not plain old kibble. By doing so, you are teaching him that asking him to leave some food doesn’t mean he won’t get anything, but that in fact he might get something even more delicious. When your dog is reliably responding to the cue, you can teach him that “leave it” can apply to other things as well, not just food on the floor. Repeat the exercise with five different items that are fairly boring to your dog. After using five different “boring” items, start using slightly more exciting items. You know your dog, so you alone know what items he would consider more interesting, but don’t jump to high-value items right away. To increase his chances of success at learning the cue, you want to work up to high-value items gradually. If Kleenex or a piece of plastic, for instance, would attract your dog on a walk, don’t start with those. Choose the items based on your ultimate goal: Anytime you say “leave it,” you want to be confident that your dog will indeed leave whatever you are asking him to leave. . The reward he receives when he leaves an item can change as well. If your dog has a favorite toy, squeak it and play for a moment when he comes running to you after leaving the other item of interest. Most dogs love interacting with us, so a moment of praise or play with a toy can be just as effective as a treat. Keep it fun Even though you’re practicing “leave it” as a way to keep your dog safe, you want him to see it as a fun game you play. When your dog is proficient at the game in your home, start practicing in a variety of locations with more distractions.

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Question
Boti
Anatolian Shepherd
6 Months
0 found helpful
Question
0 found helpful
Boti
Anatolian Shepherd
6 Months

I have an Anatolian Shepherd. We have him as a working dog around our sheep and chickens. He has always been nice to them but lately he has been trying to chew on them. Last night we didn’t notice one was left outside. He killed it and he was eating it this morning when we went to check on the animals. He had shown this behavior before but we’ve corrected it and even put a shock collar on him to shock him when he tried lunging at them. He was doing very well until last night. Should I get rid of him and give him away? Or should I try training him? We’ve tried training a dog that has killed a chicken and we’ve failed. It seems like they cannot forget the taste and they keep doing it. What should I do?

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
833 Dog owners recommended

Hello Amy, First, know that each dog is different. Just because you couldn't break your other dog of the killing, doesn't necessarily mean training would fail with this one. E-collars can be a great tool for dealing with this behavior, but how you use the tool is even more important, and being sure to use the tool in a way that actually works with how a dog learns and replaces the killing with an alternative behavior is important. Simply correcting around the chickens without further training to help the dog connect why they are specifically being corrected and to teach pup an alternative behavior that can be rewarded in place - like moving away from the chickens on their own, isn't likely to be effective enough. Check out James Penrith from TaketheLeadDogTraining. He has a Youtube channel. He works with dogs that chase and sometimes will kill livestock. To stop the killing you would need to pursue training like that, creating a strong avoidance of all chickens. Whether this is doable will depend on your level of dedication, willingness to learn, and how large the space he is in is - so that he can choose to move away from them with the space to do so. I suggest watching James Penrith's videos before deciding whether you are willing to train. I am not the one there observing your dog in person, so unfortunately I cannot make any guarantees that this behavior can be changed, but pup is young, this was an early attempt, and trainers with the right experience and knowledge - like James, do successfully modify this behavior with dogs with a far worse history of livestock killing than you dog has at this time. Day 1. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lgNbWCK9lFc Day 2. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kpf5Bn-MNko&t=14s Day 3. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xj3nMvvHhwQ Day 4. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VxrGQ-AZylY For further assurance once pup is trained to avoid the chickens, you may want to invest in a pet barrier device, like the one linked below. Avoidance training with the e-collar and long leash would still need to be done, the barrier device would just serve as a long term reminder of training were pup to ever wander near the chicken's enclosure and consider an attempt again. https://www.chewy.com/petsafe-pawz-away-outdoor-pet-barrier/dp/48580 Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Question
Rue
Pit bull/ bull mastiff mix
6 Months
0 found helpful
Question
0 found helpful
Rue
Pit bull/ bull mastiff mix
6 Months

My chickens are outside,loose to roam. She goes into the woods & kills.

Alisha Smith
Alisha S., Dog Trainer
225 Dog owners recommended

Hi there. This is something that with some time and patience, can be turned around. Rue needs to learn that the chickens are just a normal part of the household. So we need to teach her to become less excited by the chickens. If you are up for this, it is going to take about a month of consistent practice before you see results. You will want to start out by teaching her "leave it". Leave is great for anything you want your dog to leave alone. Instructions on leave it will be at the end of this response. After about a week or so of working on the command, you can start taking him out on leash.Any time the even looks at a chicken, you give the command leave it. Once he breaks his attention away from the chicken, you reward him with a treat. Ideally, you want to him to be sitting and looking at you. But in the beginning stages, as long as he isn't focused on the chicken, you can reward him. You will literally practice this over and over, while moving closer to the chickens until he is no longer interested in the chickens. While this method takes a while, it is the best in relaying the messages across to your dogs. The chickens need to be left alone! Here are the steps for "leave it" Teaching a dog 'leave it' Teaching “leave it” is not difficult. Begin the lessons inside your home or in an area with very few distractions. Here are the steps for teaching “leave it”: Make sure you have two different types of treats. One type can be fairly boring to the dog, but the other type should be a high-value treat that he finds pretty delicious. You will also want to make sure that the treats are broken up into pea-sized pieces so it won’t take him too long to eat them. Put one type of treat in each hand. If you like to train with a clicker as your marker, you can also hold a clicker in the same hand that holds the high-value treat. Then, place both of your hands behind your back. Make a fist with the hand that is holding the treat of lower value and present your fist to your dog, letting him sniff. Say “leave it” and wait until he finishes sniffing your fist. As soon as your dog is done sniffing, you can either click with the clicker or say “yes.” Then offer him the higher-value treat in your other hand. Repeat until your dog immediately stops sniffing your hand when you say “leave it.” When you say “leave it” and he stops sniffing right away, leash your dog and then toss a low-value treat outside of his reach. Wait until he stops sniffing and pulling toward the treat. As soon as he does, either say “yes” or click and then give him a high-value treat from your hand. Practice this exercise a number of times. Over time, by practicing “leave it,” your dog should stop pulling as soon as you give the cue. When rewarding him with a treat, make sure that it is something good, not plain old kibble. By doing so, you are teaching him that asking him to leave some food doesn’t mean he won’t get anything, but that in fact he might get something even more delicious. When your dog is reliably responding to the cue, you can teach him that “leave it” can apply to other things as well, not just food on the floor. Repeat the exercise with five different items that are fairly boring to your dog. After using five different “boring” items, start using slightly more exciting items. You know your dog, so you alone know what items he would consider more interesting, but don’t jump to high-value items right away. To increase his chances of success at learning the cue, you want to work up to high-value items gradually. If Kleenex or a piece of plastic, for instance, would attract your dog on a walk, don’t start with those. Choose the items based on your ultimate goal: Anytime you say “leave it,” you want to be confident that your dog will indeed leave whatever you are asking him to leave. . The reward he receives when he leaves an item can change as well. If your dog has a favorite toy, squeak it and play for a moment when he comes running to you after leaving the other item of interest. Most dogs love interacting with us, so a moment of praise or play with a toy can be just as effective as a treat. Keep it fun Even though you’re practicing “leave it” as a way to keep your dog safe, you want him to see it as a fun game you play. When your dog is proficient at the game in your home, start practicing in a variety of locations with more distractions.

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Question
Honey
Hunterway x Staffy
2 Years
0 found helpful
Question
0 found helpful
Honey
Hunterway x Staffy
2 Years

My dog will not stop killing chickens and Ducks 🦆 and when she kills it she doesn’t eat it she just leaves it and goes and kills another one what shall I do???

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
833 Dog owners recommended

Hello Daisy, Check out James Penrith from TaketheLeadDogTraining. He has a Youtube channel. He works with dogs that chase and sometimes will kill livestock. To stop the killing you would need to pursue training like that, creating a strong avoidance of the birds. Whether this is doable will depend on your level of dedication, willingness to learn, and how large the space he is in is. If he is in tight quarters with the birds, then the chance for success is lower. If he has plenty of room to go somewhere that they are not located to avoid them, then the training is more feasible. Day 1. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lgNbWCK9lFc Day 2. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kpf5Bn-MNko&t=14s Day 3. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xj3nMvvHhwQ Day 4. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VxrGQ-AZylY Up close training for tighter quarters when needed - ideally pup won't be that close to the birds though. Severe cat killing issue - also prey drive issue though: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_MLJV5PBh7Y More e-collar work with cat as prey animal with the same dog: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v8lkbX0dhT0 Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Question
Dasher
Collie
9 Months
0 found helpful
Question
0 found helpful
Dasher
Collie
9 Months

I live on a farm and we have chickens and 2 collies now one is 9 months and the other is 10 years and the 9 month old one started trying to eat the chickens out of the blue and we have had him since Christmas and he never done that and he is teaching the other collie to do it so how can i stop them from eating, attacking and killing the chickens

Darlene Stott
Darlene Stott
Dog Trainer and Groomer
104 Dog owners recommended

Hello, you can try the Drop Method with daily practicing at least 10 minutes a dayhttps://wagwalking.com/training/not-attack-chickens but with two dogs you will need perseverance and perhaps some help from other family members too. The best suggestion I can give is to build a large fenced enclosure where the chickens still have the freedom to run but will no longer be a target for the dogs. Dasher may have a strong prey drive, hard to change. You can also try the Critical Distance Method: https://wagwalking.com/training/not-kill-chickens-1. Another option is to hire a trainer to come to the farm and work with the dogs - it may be worth it to save your investment in the chickens. All the best.

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Question
Boss
Bull Bullmastiff
5 Years
0 found helpful
Question
0 found helpful
Boss
Bull Bullmastiff
5 Years

I think that is the correct bread

I have taken him into my care from a mate. Boss has been with has for 3 months.
He is a beautiful dog. He is great around my nephews and nieces.. However he has killed three of my livestock 2 hens and a duck... (he got through the gate the first time, and busted through the fence the last 2 times) I now have him on a lead in the front yard- he is walked daily!

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
833 Dog owners recommended

Hello Genevieve, I suggest hiring a professional trainer with experience in this area to help you teach pup an avoidance of the animals, using avoidance training. Check out the videos linked below for examples of this type of training. Day 1. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lgNbWCK9lFc Day 2. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kpf5Bn-MNko&t=14s Day 3. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xj3nMvvHhwQ Day 4. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VxrGQ-AZylY Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Question
Cooper
Pomeranian
9 Years
0 found helpful
Question
0 found helpful
Cooper
Pomeranian
9 Years

I have some new week old baby chicks. Our other dog Bradley who is a Bichon and poodle mix has no problem with the baby chicks. He doesn’t care about them. One of the chicks has even tried to hide underneath him looking to be warm and he was completely fine with it. Just a little startled but showed no interest in wanting to eat the chick. Our other dog cooper who is the Pomeranian within moments of seeing the baby chick in my hand tried to bite its head off and now since he’s discovered where the baby chicks are staying he won’t stop sniffing and trying to find away into the baby chicks cage. What should I do! I need some serious help.

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
833 Dog owners recommended

Hello Abigail, I suggest investing in a pet barrier device and placing that device near the chicks cage to discourage him from approaching the area. I also suggest working on impulse building commands with pup on a secure leash. Check out the videos below. The videos are working with a cat but the training still applies to issues with birds. Mild cat issue example - teaching impulse control: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IWF2Ohik8iM Moderate cat issue example - teaching impulse control using corrections and rewards: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9dPIC3Jtn0E Work on impulse control in general with pup, by teaching things that increase impulse control and calmness - such as a long, Place command around lots of distractions. Practicing the command until you get to the point where pup will stay on Place while you are working with the chick in the same room. You can also back tie pup while they are on place - connecting a long leash attached to pup to something near the Place just in case pup were to try to get off Place before you could intervene. This keeps chick safe while practicing and reinforces to pup that they can't get off the Place. The leash should be long enough that pup doesn't feel the leash while they are obediently staying on the Place because it has some slack in the leash. Place: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=omg5DVPWIWo Below are some other commands in general you can practice to help pup develop better impulse skill/self-control - impulse control takes practice for a dog to gain the ability to control himself. Crate manners: https://thegooddog.net/training-videos/free-how-to-training-videos/learn-to-train-the-good-dog-way-the-crate/ Thresholds: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-w28C2g68M Heel article - The turns method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Heel Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTiKVc4ZZWo Down-Stay: https://www.thelabradorsite.com/train-your-labrador-to-lie-down-and-stay/ Leave It: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite Out - which means leave the room: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-the-out-command/ Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Galaxy
German Shepherd
1 Year
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Galaxy
German Shepherd
1 Year

He keeps eating the chicken even when i am around what should i do

Alisha Smith
Alisha S., Dog Trainer
225 Dog owners recommended

Hi there. This is something that with some time and patience, can be turned around. Galaxy needs to learn that the chickens are just a normal part of the household. So we need to teach him to become less excited by the chickens. If you are up for this, it is going to take about a month of consistent practice before you see results. You will want to start out by teaching him "leave it". Leave is great for anything you want your dog to leave alone. Instructions on leave it will be at the end of this response. After about a week or so of working on the command, you can start taking him out on leash.Any time the even looks at a chicken, you give the command leave it. Once he breaks his attention away from the chicken, you reward him with a treat. Ideally, you want to him to be sitting and looking at you. But in the beginning stages, as long as he isn't focused on the chicken, you can reward him. You will literally practice this over and over, while moving closer to the chickens until he is no longer interested in the chickens. While this method takes a while, it is the best in relaying the messages across to your dogs. The chickens need to be left alone! Here are the steps for "leave it" Teaching a dog 'leave it' Teaching “leave it” is not difficult. Begin the lessons inside your home or in an area with very few distractions. Here are the steps for teaching “leave it”: Make sure you have two different types of treats. One type can be fairly boring to the dog, but the other type should be a high-value treat that he finds pretty delicious. You will also want to make sure that the treats are broken up into pea-sized pieces so it won’t take him too long to eat them. Put one type of treat in each hand. If you like to train with a clicker as your marker, you can also hold a clicker in the same hand that holds the high-value treat. Then, place both of your hands behind your back. Make a fist with the hand that is holding the treat of lower value and present your fist to your dog, letting him sniff. Say “leave it” and wait until he finishes sniffing your fist. As soon as your dog is done sniffing, you can either click with the clicker or say “yes.” Then offer him the higher-value treat in your other hand. Repeat until your dog immediately stops sniffing your hand when you say “leave it.” When you say “leave it” and he stops sniffing right away, leash your dog and then toss a low-value treat outside of his reach. Wait until he stops sniffing and pulling toward the treat. As soon as he does, either say “yes” or click and then give him a high-value treat from your hand. Practice this exercise a number of times. Over time, by practicing “leave it,” your dog should stop pulling as soon as you give the cue. When rewarding him with a treat, make sure that it is something good, not plain old kibble. By doing so, you are teaching him that asking him to leave some food doesn’t mean he won’t get anything, but that in fact he might get something even more delicious. When your dog is reliably responding to the cue, you can teach him that “leave it” can apply to other things as well, not just food on the floor. Repeat the exercise with five different items that are fairly boring to your dog. After using five different “boring” items, start using slightly more exciting items. You know your dog, so you alone know what items he would consider more interesting, but don’t jump to high-value items right away. To increase his chances of success at learning the cue, you want to work up to high-value items gradually. If Kleenex or a piece of plastic, for instance, would attract your dog on a walk, don’t start with those. Choose the items based on your ultimate goal: Anytime you say “leave it,” you want to be confident that your dog will indeed leave whatever you are asking him to leave. . The reward he receives when he leaves an item can change as well. If your dog has a favorite toy, squeak it and play for a moment when he comes running to you after leaving the other item of interest. Most dogs love interacting with us, so a moment of praise or play with a toy can be just as effective as a treat. Keep it fun Even though you’re practicing “leave it” as a way to keep your dog safe, you want him to see it as a fun game you play. When your dog is proficient at the game in your home, start practicing in a variety of locations with more distractions.

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Rober and Lexi
Blue Heeler
3 Months
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Rober and Lexi
Blue Heeler
3 Months

we have chickens lose on our property and they just keep killing the smaller ones but they don't eat them. SO WHAT should i do?

Alisha Smith
Alisha S., Dog Trainer
225 Dog owners recommended

Hi there. This is something that with some time and patience, can be turned around. Your dogs need to learn that the chickens are just a normal part of the household. So we need to teach them to become less excited by the chickens. If you are up for this, it is going to take about a month of consistent practice before you see results. You will want to start out by teaching him "leave it". Leave is great for anything you want your dog to leave alone. Instructions on leave it will be at the end of this response. After about a week or so of working on the command, you can start taking him out on leash.Any time the even looks at a chicken, you give the command leave it. Once he breaks his attention away from the chicken, you reward him with a treat. Ideally, you want to him to be sitting and looking at you. But in the beginning stages, as long as he isn't focused on the chicken, you can reward him. You will literally practice this over and over, while moving closer to the chickens until he is no longer interested in the chickens. While this method takes a while, it is the best in relaying the messages across to your dogs. The chickens need to be left alone! Here are the steps for "leave it" Teaching a dog 'leave it' Teaching “leave it” is not difficult. Begin the lessons inside your home or in an area with very few distractions. Here are the steps for teaching “leave it”: Make sure you have two different types of treats. One type can be fairly boring to the dog, but the other type should be a high-value treat that he finds pretty delicious. You will also want to make sure that the treats are broken up into pea-sized pieces so it won’t take him too long to eat them. Put one type of treat in each hand. If you like to train with a clicker as your marker, you can also hold a clicker in the same hand that holds the high-value treat. Then, place both of your hands behind your back. Make a fist with the hand that is holding the treat of lower value and present your fist to your dog, letting him sniff. Say “leave it” and wait until he finishes sniffing your fist. As soon as your dog is done sniffing, you can either click with the clicker or say “yes.” Then offer him the higher-value treat in your other hand. Repeat until your dog immediately stops sniffing your hand when you say “leave it.” When you say “leave it” and he stops sniffing right away, leash your dog and then toss a low-value treat outside of his reach. Wait until he stops sniffing and pulling toward the treat. As soon as he does, either say “yes” or click and then give him a high-value treat from your hand. Practice this exercise a number of times. Over time, by practicing “leave it,” your dog should stop pulling as soon as you give the cue. When rewarding him with a treat, make sure that it is something good, not plain old kibble. By doing so, you are teaching him that asking him to leave some food doesn’t mean he won’t get anything, but that in fact he might get something even more delicious. When your dog is reliably responding to the cue, you can teach him that “leave it” can apply to other things as well, not just food on the floor. Repeat the exercise with five different items that are fairly boring to your dog. After using five different “boring” items, start using slightly more exciting items. You know your dog, so you alone know what items he would consider more interesting, but don’t jump to high-value items right away. To increase his chances of success at learning the cue, you want to work up to high-value items gradually. If Kleenex or a piece of plastic, for instance, would attract your dog on a walk, don’t start with those. Choose the items based on your ultimate goal: Anytime you say “leave it,” you want to be confident that your dog will indeed leave whatever you are asking him to leave. . The reward he receives when he leaves an item can change as well. If your dog has a favorite toy, squeak it and play for a moment when he comes running to you after leaving the other item of interest. Most dogs love interacting with us, so a moment of praise or play with a toy can be just as effective as a treat. Keep it fun Even though you’re practicing “leave it” as a way to keep your dog safe, you want him to see it as a fun game you play. When your dog is proficient at the game in your home, start practicing in a variety of locations with more distractions.

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Gerti
Meremma & Great Pyrenees
5 Months
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Gerti
Meremma & Great Pyrenees
5 Months

She was raised with chickens until 16 weeks at the breeders home. I brought her home and she only went to my chickens when I was with her for a week or so and then I would let her out with chickens and she has been perfect (when I was off property and could not watch I put her in Kennel) so on 2 different brisk mornings she went for a chicken as they came out of their coops for the day. I immediatly got onto her and redirected. But the 3rd brisk day she went after one when I was not out their and ripped feathers out and left an abraision on hen, did not kill it.Now I am afraid to leave her alone with chickens but hate to put her in kennel all day so I do not know how to procede. We have been doing training out with the chickens and she never seems to have any interest in them so I am confused. I did start letting her out in another area with my large dogs to run off energy before going over to the coop. How would you recommend I procede.
I am so greatful for any and all advice you can give me. I want to succeed as an LGD owner and I want her to succeed as an LGd.
Thank you

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
833 Dog owners recommended

Hello Kathy, First, pup needs to not be left alone with the chickens until they are an adult and past the puppy chewing and destructive periods - usually 1-2 years. This is a bit different than with larger animals like sheep, since a pup trying to play with a bird could accidently kill it and teach the dog that game, or the running of a bird trigger prey drive in a playful pup. When with pup, if they show any unwanted interest in the birds, like nipping, barking, licking, or being too rough, that needs to be discouraged - how you discourage will depend on how sensitive pup is. If you don't have another area pup can stay in while you are away, away from the chickens, then pup will need to be crated while you are gone. Just be sure pup is getting enough mental and physical exercise when you can supervise them with the chickens when you are home, since they will be cooped up a lot. Personally, I would use some cheap fencing to section off part of the yard within the main yard for pup, where they can see but not get to the chickens while you are away. Don't expect pup to guard yet, socializing them with the birds while avoiding aggression toward the birds is the main goal right now. Many LGd don't bond with birds the same way they do with larger livestock like sheep. There are exceptions but birds are often guarded as part of the overall territory and pup simply wanting to keep intruders out of the territory - and having been taught to ignore and leave birds alone. Opposed to sheep, which are guarded as family. There are exceptions though where some might view birds as family, but they are likely exceptions. There are also several forums and Facebook LGd groups where you may want to connect with others who have done this work for many years, as questions come up for additional support. https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/my-lgd-great-pyr-killed-chicken.837632/ Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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hope
Unknown
4 Years
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hope
Unknown
4 Years

please help i have a rescue dog named hope. she came from a abusive home were too teenage boys covered her in deasil and set her on fire. so my friend how owns a small dog rescue asked if i could take her because she was bullied by the other dogs me being a giant sucker said yes. unfortunately i didn't take into account that my chickens may be her new chew toys sigh . I've been working on her for 2 months but she still is not getting don't eat the chickens . am i doing something rough? I've been trying to teach her the distance method do i need to try something else ?

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
833 Dog owners recommended

Hello Sarah, Check out the two videos below of teaching a dog to leave cats alone, so you can visualize desensitizing to animals. Mild cat issue - teaching impulse control: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IWF2Ohik8iM Moderate cat issue - teaching impulse control using corrections and rewards: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9dPIC3Jtn0E For many dogs, the above type training is enough, but for some dogs with a strong prey drive, a form of correction is also needed in combination with the above training you have been working on (but not in place of). If the behavior is happening when you aren't around too, you will need to use a remote collar for training. Another option is to enclose the chickens so there is a physical barrier between pup and the chickens, like chicken wire so you can move their enclosure as needed, and to use a pet barrier device, set in the middle of wherever the chickens are, and set to a range that includes their whole area (whatever the size of the enclose is but not more than that, so that pup learns to stay back from the enclosure, since the corresponding collar they wear works similarly to an electric fence collar, correcting pup automatically when they get too close to the device (where the chickens are), to teach pup to avoid the birds. For more information about e-collar training and livestock, check out James Penrith's youtube channel, or look for a trainer who has such experience in your area. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lgNbWCK9lFc Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Fion
Husky lab
5 Years
0 found helpful
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0 found helpful
Fion
Husky lab
5 Years

Fiona desperately wants to hunt our chickens, ducks, and guinea fowl. Even when i a. Holding them and making it clear they are on the same level as she is.

We've been practicing restraint and leave it, but I feel like we've made basically no progress. She and my other dog lobo, have killed 4 chickens.

Alisha Smith
Alisha S., Dog Trainer
225 Dog owners recommended

Hi there. This is something that with some time and patience, can be turned around. Your dog needs to learn that the chickens are just a normal part of the household. So we need to teach her to become less excited by the chickens. If you are up for this, it is going to take about a month of consistent practice before you see results. You will want to start out by teaching her "leave it". Leave is great for anything you want your dog to leave alone. Instructions on leave it will be at the end of this response. After about a week or so of working on the command, you can start taking her out on leash.Any time she even looks at a chicken, you give the command leave it. Once she breaks her attention away from the chicken, you reward her with a treat. Ideally, you want to her to be sitting and looking at you. But in the beginning stages, as long as she isn't focused on the chicken, you can reward her. You will literally practice this over and over, while moving closer to the chickens until she is no longer interested in the chickens. While this method takes a while, it is the best in relaying the messages across to your dog. The chickens need to be left alone! Here are the steps for "leave it" Teaching a dog 'leave it' Teaching “leave it” is not difficult. Begin the lessons inside your home or in an area with very few distractions. Here are the steps for teaching “leave it”: Make sure you have two different types of treats. One type can be fairly boring to the dog, but the other type should be a high-value treat that he finds pretty delicious. You will also want to make sure that the treats are broken up into pea-sized pieces so it won’t take him too long to eat them. Put one type of treat in each hand. If you like to train with a clicker as your marker, you can also hold a clicker in the same hand that holds the high-value treat. Then, place both of your hands behind your back. Make a fist with the hand that is holding the treat of lower value and present your fist to your dog, letting him sniff. Say “leave it” and wait until he finishes sniffing your fist. As soon as your dog is done sniffing, you can either click with the clicker or say “yes.” Then offer him the higher-value treat in your other hand. Repeat until your dog immediately stops sniffing your hand when you say “leave it.” When you say “leave it” and he stops sniffing right away, leash your dog and then toss a low-value treat outside of his reach. Wait until he stops sniffing and pulling toward the treat. As soon as he does, either say “yes” or click and then give him a high-value treat from your hand. Practice this exercise a number of times. Over time, by practicing “leave it,” your dog should stop pulling as soon as you give the cue. When rewarding him with a treat, make sure that it is something good, not plain old kibble. By doing so, you are teaching him that asking him to leave some food doesn’t mean he won’t get anything, but that in fact he might get something even more delicious. When your dog is reliably responding to the cue, you can teach him that “leave it” can apply to other things as well, not just food on the floor. Repeat the exercise with five different items that are fairly boring to your dog. After using five different “boring” items, start using slightly more exciting items. You know your dog, so you alone know what items he would consider more interesting, but don’t jump to high-value items right away. To increase his chances of success at learning the cue, you want to work up to high-value items gradually. If Kleenex or a piece of plastic, for instance, would attract your dog on a walk, don’t start with those. Choose the items based on your ultimate goal: Anytime you say “leave it,” you want to be confident that your dog will indeed leave whatever you are asking him to leave. . The reward he receives when he leaves an item can change as well. If your dog has a favorite toy, squeak it and play for a moment when he comes running to you after leaving the other item of interest. Most dogs love interacting with us, so a moment of praise or play with a toy can be just as effective as a treat. Keep it fun Even though you’re practicing “leave it” as a way to keep your dog safe, you want him to see it as a fun game you play. When your dog is proficient at the game in your home, start practicing in a variety of locations with more distractions.

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Paisley
Bagel
8 Months
0 found helpful
Question
0 found helpful
Paisley
Bagel
8 Months

So we had 8 chickens but my dog has been getting in the coop while I am away. We have been trying to teach her that they are not food. We honestly don’t know what to do.

Alisha Smith
Alisha S., Dog Trainer
225 Dog owners recommended

Hi there. This is something that with some time and patience, can be turned around. Your dogs need to learn that the chickens are just a normal part of the household. So we need to teach them to become less excited by the chickens. If you are up for this, it is going to take about a month of consistent practice before you see results. You will want to start out by teaching him "leave it". Leave is great for anything you want your dog to leave alone. Instructions on leave it will be at the end of this response. After about a week or so of working on the command, you can start taking him out on leash.Any time the even looks at a chicken, you give the command leave it. Once he breaks his attention away from the chicken, you reward him with a treat. Ideally, you want to him to be sitting and looking at you. But in the beginning stages, as long as he isn't focused on the chicken, you can reward him. You will literally practice this over and over, while moving closer to the chickens until he is no longer interested in the chickens. While this method takes a while, it is the best in relaying the messages across to your dogs. The chickens need to be left alone! Here are the steps for "leave it" Teaching a dog 'leave it' Teaching “leave it” is not difficult. Begin the lessons inside your home or in an area with very few distractions. Here are the steps for teaching “leave it”: Make sure you have two different types of treats. One type can be fairly boring to the dog, but the other type should be a high-value treat that he finds pretty delicious. You will also want to make sure that the treats are broken up into pea-sized pieces so it won’t take him too long to eat them. Put one type of treat in each hand. If you like to train with a clicker as your marker, you can also hold a clicker in the same hand that holds the high-value treat. Then, place both of your hands behind your back. Make a fist with the hand that is holding the treat of lower value and present your fist to your dog, letting him sniff. Say “leave it” and wait until he finishes sniffing your fist. As soon as your dog is done sniffing, you can either click with the clicker or say “yes.” Then offer him the higher-value treat in your other hand. Repeat until your dog immediately stops sniffing your hand when you say “leave it.” When you say “leave it” and he stops sniffing right away, leash your dog and then toss a low-value treat outside of his reach. Wait until he stops sniffing and pulling toward the treat. As soon as he does, either say “yes” or click and then give him a high-value treat from your hand. Practice this exercise a number of times. Over time, by practicing “leave it,” your dog should stop pulling as soon as you give the cue. When rewarding him with a treat, make sure that it is something good, not plain old kibble. By doing so, you are teaching him that asking him to leave some food doesn’t mean he won’t get anything, but that in fact he might get something even more delicious. When your dog is reliably responding to the cue, you can teach him that “leave it” can apply to other things as well, not just food on the floor. Repeat the exercise with five different items that are fairly boring to your dog. After using five different “boring” items, start using slightly more exciting items. You know your dog, so you alone know what items he would consider more interesting, but don’t jump to high-value items right away. To increase his chances of success at learning the cue, you want to work up to high-value items gradually. If Kleenex or a piece of plastic, for instance, would attract your dog on a walk, don’t start with those. Choose the items based on your ultimate goal: Anytime you say “leave it,” you want to be confident that your dog will indeed leave whatever you are asking him to leave. . The reward he receives when he leaves an item can change as well. If your dog has a favorite toy, squeak it and play for a moment when he comes running to you after leaving the other item of interest. Most dogs love interacting with us, so a moment of praise or play with a toy can be just as effective as a treat. Keep it fun Even though you’re practicing “leave it” as a way to keep your dog safe, you want him to see it as a fun game you play. When your dog is proficient at the game in your home, start practicing in a variety of locations with more distractions.

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Remmington
German Wirehaired Pointer
7 Months
0 found helpful
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Remmington
German Wirehaired Pointer
7 Months

I am having trouble keeping Remi from attacking chickens at my farm when I am not around him. If I am near the animals he leaves them alone but today he went and brought me a now third dead chicken from our coop.

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
833 Dog owners recommended

Hello Joshua, Check out James Penrith from TaketheLeadDogTraining. He has a Youtube channel. He works with dogs that chase and sometimes will kill livestock. To stop the killing you would need to pursue training like that, creating a strong avoidance of chickens. Whether this is doable will depend on your level of dedication, willingness to learn, and how large the space he is in is. If he is in tight quarters with the birds this will be harder to train. Day 1. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lgNbWCK9lFc Day 2. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kpf5Bn-MNko&t=14s Day 3. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xj3nMvvHhwQ Day 4. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VxrGQ-AZylY Examples of teaching similar avoidance with cats: Mild cat issue - teaching impulse control: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IWF2Ohik8iM Moderate cat issue - teaching impulse control using corrections and rewards: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9dPIC3Jtn0E Severe cat issue: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_MLJV5PBh7Y More e-collar work with cats with the same dog: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v8lkbX0dhT0 Work on impulse control in general with pup, by teaching things that increase impulse control and calmness - such as a long, Place command around lots of distractions. Place: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=omg5DVPWIWo Below are some other commands in general you can practice to help pup develop better impulse skill/self-control. Thresholds: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-w28C2g68M Heel article - The turns method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Down-Stay: https://www.thelabradorsite.com/train-your-labrador-to-lie-down-and-stay/ Leave It: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite Out - which means leave the room: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-the-out-command/ For e-collar training I do generally recommend hiring a professional trainer who specializes in behavior issues and has experience to help you in person. It's very important to learn about fitting, using the proper stimulation level (called a working level) for your particular dog, using the collar correctly during training so that the dog understands what you do and do not want them to do, and not just correcting the dog without prior training and building of self-control also with rewards, and using a high quality collar that's consistent, has a huge range of levels, with low level stimulation options, such as Garmin, E-collar technologies, or Dogtra. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Mark
Corgi
8 Months
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0 found helpful
Mark
Corgi
8 Months

She has 10 acres to run on. She doesn’t seem interested in hanging out near the chicken coop. She doesn’t show any aggression towards them.
Even when the chickens accasionally get out of their coop, she doesn’t run towards them. But every few weeks she randomly attacks one out of nowhere. She doesn’t even kill it. Just hurts it enough to the point where we have to put her down.... what do I do

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
833 Dog owners recommended

Hello Brigid, It may be a chicken running that's leading to the attack. I would teach pup to generally avoid the birds at all times, but I would also practice Leave It with pup on a long leash and have another person get a bird running. Practice having pup leave the bird alone when it runs. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Cuny
Miniature Pinscher
3 Years
0 found helpful
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0 found helpful
Cuny
Miniature Pinscher
3 Years

When she was 2 she saw chickens for the first time and she already started chasing after it. She already killed 2 chicks, The first one was a year ago when she wants to go for a walk I was convinced that she would behave but when she saw the chick she went running after it, when we saw her stopped she already killed the chick and it’s still in her mouth my nephew was the one who pulled it out but she is aggressive and won’t let it go. The second one was just a while ago I let go of her leash so she can roam around to find her spot but when she saw the ducks she went running again and I can’t chase her because she is very tiny and also fast when she calmed down I was about to hold onto her leash but then she saw the chick this time and she did the same thing as the first one she won’t let go of the chick, when I managed to get it out of her mouth the chick is still alive but it became really weak and slowly died I called my brother to tell him what just happened and he said that I let her be but she still tried to get near the chick and got a grip on the wings then my brother started slapping her mouth to teach her a lesson that she should stop chasing/killing chickens but I told him to stop because she was already so afraid and dropped the chick, when we’re about to go back home she saw the duck again and tried to get near it like nothing happened she wasn’t afraid to be punished but I pulled the leash and picked her up. She always wants to go inside the farm but we always stop her that’s why she only killed the ones who are loose. I just started training her about the basics and she did well but I want to teach her not to chase and/or kill chickens anymore because our neighbors also have chickens, I’m afraid that she might kill one of theirs.

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
833 Dog owners recommended

Hello Queen, First, I suggest teaching a solid Leave It command to pup. Teach the Leave It command using the Leave It method from the article linked below. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite Second, teach pup a structured heel - practice away from birds at first. Check out the article linked below Heel article - The turns method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Check out this video on teaching self-control: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=buaZctWLWR0 Since it sounds like pup may live in a rural area where they are off leash and doing the behavior. Keep pup leashed at all times while outside while doing the initial on-leash training. When pup can handle leaving birds alone while on leash, then check out the videos linked below for how to teach a dog to avoid livestock and foil while off-leash also (which is a similar prey or herding drive behind the behavior, so actually addressed very similarly to car chasing off-leash). Teach pup to avoid chickens in general, using such training, even with you not around. Since you will have spent the time doing the on-leash training first, pup should better understand the off-leash (or long leash at first) part of the training as you progress to that part of it. The on leash needs to be done first though. Day 1. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lgNbWCK9lFc Day 2. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kpf5Bn-MNko&t=14s Day 3. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xj3nMvvHhwQ Day 4. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VxrGQ-AZylY Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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