How to Train Your Older Dog to Ring a Bell to Go Out
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Introduction
Teaching your dog to ring the bell if they want to go out is a great way to have a built-in reminder for when it is time to let them out for a potty. This can be especially helpful for older dogs, or those with medical conditions that require frequent potty breaks.
Once they have the basics of ringing the bell down, you can bring a spare bell on a string with you when you travel so that your dog can bring their trick with them to hotels or when visiting friends and family. It is a great trick for adding some consistency to the sometimes stressful environment of new places.
You can train younger dogs to do this behavior as well. The trick with older dogs is simply to be more patient and do plenty of repetitions before moving to the next training step in order to make the training session about success and confidence building. It is a myth that old dogs can’t learn new tricks, but sometimes they do need a little more patience.
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Defining Tasks
Prevent accidents! This trained behavior will help you prevent your older dog from having accidents in the house by giving them a way to give you a clear signal that it is time to go out, without wining or pawing at the door.
Once you have taught them the basics of the trick, you can make it a requirement for going outside.
What you will find is that in time, once ringing the bell is a requirement before going out, your dog will ring it on their own when they are ready. You don’t actually have to teach this last step, your dog will just naturally do it when they have had enough prompting and practice.
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Getting Started
If you use a clicker to train your dog, then make sure to have that and some small treats handy. If you don’t use a clicker, just make a special sound or word to “mark” the behavior you want at each step, always followed promptly by a reward.
Training Tip:
The instructions below may take several sessions to accomplish. Be sure to start at the last step your dog mastered for lots of practice at the start of a new session before trying to move on to a new step. This builds confidence and keeps your dog engaged in learning.
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The Nose the Bell Method
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Bell in hand
Start with your dog in front of you near the door with the bell in your open hand. Offer your hand to the dog to encourage them to investigate the bell. Click/reward when your dog moves their nose to the touch the bell. Repeat 10 times.
Bell on string
Tie the bell to a short string (2-3”) and hold so that it is hanging down from your hand. Your dog will most likely go to touch the bell again. Click reward any touch of the nose to the bell.
Raising the bar
Once your dog is reliably and enthusiastically touching the bell on a string with his nose, raise your expectations to include actually making a ring sound, no matter how small. Only click/reward when your dog rings the bell. Repeat 20-30 times, trying to get an enthusiastic ring every time.
Mount the bell
You are now ready to mount the bell. Make sure to mount it near nose level for fastest results. For your first training session after the bell is mounted, try pretending like you are holding it in place to help jog your dog’s memory from the last session. Repeat 10-20 times.
Transition the reward
Eventually, the reward for this trick is going to be to let your dog outside, rather than treats. Once they are reliably doing the trick for treats, start to let your dog out the door when they ring the bell, along with lots of praise. If your dog will come right back in, try to practice several times in a row, several times a day.
Proof
Once your dog has some practice with ringing the bell before going outside in practice sessions, start making it a requirement to get outside. Stand patiently by the door, giving your dog a hint by putting your hand near the bell. Make a big deal out of a successful ring and then let them outside. Your dog will get the picture, and eventually they will ring the bell before you are at the door, letting you know they are ready to go out. Reward with praise and letting them outside.
The Target Method
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Building block
A building block trick is one that is used as a baseline skill that can later be applied to different training situations. Teaching your dog to nose a target is one such building block trick that is a great one to have in your repertoire. This method starts by teaching the basics of “Target,” and then shows you how to use that to train a totally different trick – ringing the bell to go out.
Pick a target
You want to pick something as a target that you can use in multiple training situations. Common choices include Post-it notes or small pieces of painter’s tape.
Teach nose to target
Start with the target on the palm of your hand and offer it to your dog like it is something interesting. Most dogs will come in for a sniff to check it out; give them a little help by touching the target to their nose gently, then click/reward. Repeat 10-15 times, until your dog is touching the target without your help reliably.
Add the cue
Say “Target!” in an excited tone right before your dog goes in to touch the target again. Click reward for successful attempts, making sure your dog actually touches the target every time.
Move the target
Now put the target somewhere close to your training spot so your dog does not have to move much to get to it. Give the cue, wait for the touch, click/reward. Repeat 10 times before moving the target around, staying in the same area so your dog will build up a lot of success.
Go away to target
After you have a lot of repetition with this trick at close quarters, your dog will have some confidence with the target trick. Start to put the target a few steps away, giving the cue, and waiting for your dog to go over and touch the target. Click/reward, repeating a few dozen times.
Target the bell
With the bell already mounted by your door, put the target near it, say “Target!”, and click/reward for each successful nose of the target. Work the target closer to the bell until it is behind it or so close that your dog rings the bell, click/treat. Once you have the bell ringing, repeat 10-20 times.
Bell before going out
Once your dog is consistently ringing the bell with the 'target' cue, you can start waiting for the bell before letting your dog out. Change the reward at this point. Every time your dog rings the bell, let them out. Eventually, with some practice, your dog will start ringing the bell on their own when they want to go out. Be sure to let them out every time they ring the bell for at least a few dozen times to reinforce the behavior.
The Peanut Butter Method
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Bait the bell
With the bell mounted near the door, put a little peanut butter on it. Your dog will go for the peanut butter and as soon as he rings the bell, let him out.
Repeat
Invite your dog back inside and be sure to give him a treat for coming back in. Close the door, and repeat the first step. Continue this for 5 times per session. Make sure to do a few sessions a day.
Practice
Once your dog understands the game, you can bait the bell before going out for regular potty or walk breaks. At this stage, make ringing the bell a requirement before opening the door.
Fade the bait
Eventually, your dog will ring the bell without being baited. When he is ready to go out, just wait by the door patiently and look at him like you are expecting something. Don’t punish any alternative behavior or get frustrated. Just wait for the ring of the bell then excitedly open the door and give him praise.
Stay patient
If you have to, return to baiting the bell if your dog seems to forget or get too frustrated at the expectation that he rings the bell before going out. Don’t worry, with practice and patience your dog will naturally start to ring the bell on his own when he is ready to go out.
Written by Sharon Elber
Veterinary reviewed by:
Published: 01/01/2018, edited: 01/08/2021
More articles by Sharon Elber
Training Questions and Answers
Maddie
Dachshund
Twelve Years
Question
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0 found this helpful
Our dachshund is new to us and cannot climb stairs, and this is the only way to the front door. She's used to having all her stuff (harness, leash...) at the top of the stairs for us to put her in to take her out. The bell would have to be up there too. I suspect I can work around it, but I'm wondering whether it might prove any difficulty and if so how I might want to tweak these strategies. Any tips?
Oct. 12, 2022
Maddie's Owner
Caitlin Crittenden - Dog Trainer
1133 Dog owners recommended
Hello, I would either install a 1 foot wide ramp along the side of the stairs so she can navigate her way up the stairs, or place the bell and her harness and leash at the bottom of the stairs, so ringing the bell can still be associated with getting her harness and leash on and then being carried outside over the stairs right away. It might take a bit longer to teach her to use the bell, but if harnessing can happen right after she rings it, even if there is a delay in walking out the door, so will still associate the bell ringing with putting that harness on, and as long as she likes putting the harness on because it means going outside, she should still be able to learn to associate the bell with alerting to go outside just fine. If you have a fence you let her out into so don't harness her before letting her outside, she will probably still learn to associate that bell with then being carried outside as long as you respond to her ringing quickly. I would reward her for both ringing the bell then again for going potty outside after for longer than I would a dog who doesn't have issues reaching the door. Usually you reward for both at first then pretty quickly transition to only rewarding after they go potty outside after having rang the bell. Keep rewarding for both for about a week longer than you might otherwise have, to make sure the bell is something she really likes. If she doesn't like being picked up, you also need to work on associating calmness and tolerance when you touch her, working up to rewarding lifting her, so she doesn't avoid ringing the bell because she dislikes the lifting that happens right after. Examples of ramps. You may need a tiny fence/rail separating the edge of the ramp and the stairs if pup has any balance or vision issues too. Be sure the ramp has traction like carpet squares or some form of tread for gripping, and isn't just slippery wood or laminate. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden https://www.pinterest.com/pin/10766486602214595/
Oct. 12, 2022
Hunny
Boykin Spaniel
5 Years
Question
0 found this helpful
0 found this helpful
Our recently adopted dog is not house trained. Any suggestions.
Feb. 11, 2022
Hunny's Owner
Alisha Smith - Alisha S., Dog Trainer
257 Dog owners recommended
Hello. I am going to send you a bunch of information on potty training. You will basically have to start completely over with potty training as if your dog were a puppy again. When pet owners do this, sometimes it can take only a week, other times it can take much longer. But he WILL get it. This information is written for puppies, but the procedure is exactly the same for training an adult dog who doesn't quite know where to go potty. Potty training: Know Your Pup. As you spend time with your puppy, learn your puppy’s love language. Just as some people prefer gifts, touch, or time spent together, puppies can be the same way. Some puppies love praise or pets, while others prefer treats. As you get to know your puppy, consider what reward your puppy loves the most. Create a Daily Schedule. It is best to have a routine for your puppy. A schedule helps them understand when to eat, play, and “go to the bathroom.” Your puppy should go out frequently and the routine should be the same every time. When? Start the day by taking your puppy outside, and repeating based on age and ability. They should also go out after napping, chewing, playing, and within 10 to 15 minutes of eating. Although some puppies can sleep for seven hours, it is important to set an alarm and take your pup out during the night. When you do, don’t make a fuss about it. Quietly take them outside with minimal stimulation and light. Praise them if they go to the bathroom and gently return them to their bed or crate. You don’t want them to get stimulated and ready to play in the middle of the night! As you get to know your puppy, you will become aware of their individual habits. Click here to learn more about house training schedules for puppies. Where? Take your puppy to a specific area to urinate or defecate. Be consistent. You can create an area by using urine-soaked paper or bowel movements to help create an aroma to stimulate your puppy. How? Take your puppy out on a leash so they can focus on the desired activity. This will help prevent them from wandering off to play. Once your puppy is in the selected area, use your verbal cue, such as “Hurry Up,” “Poopies,” “Go tinkle,” or any phrase your puppy responds to. What? Know the signs that your puppy has to go to the bathroom. Every animal may have a different “I gotta go” gesture, which often include restlessness, sniffing around, circling, scratching at the door, barking, and, eventually, squatting. At the first sign that your pup has to go, calmly and quickly take them outside to their bathroom spot. Deal with Accidents. Accidents are a normal part of house training a puppy. What to Do If you see your puppy in the process of urinating or defecating inappropriately, calmly and quickly interrupt them in the act. Tell them to stop (either by a jarring sound or command), and immediately take them to an appropriate location for elimination. After your puppy goes to the bathroom, lavishly praise them and offer a treat. Thoroughly clean up accidents, so your puppy is not attracted to this area again. Create a consistent feeding and watering schedule. Depending on the age of your puppy, they will eat three to four times a day. A consistent feeding routine can create a regular bathroom schedule. Take away water about 2 hours before bedtime. Learn more about ideal dog schedules here. What NOT to Do Don’t punish your puppy when they have an accident. At that point, it is too late. When a puppy has an accident in the house and they walk away, within seconds they have already forgotten about what they did. Taking them to the scene of the crime and yelling and/or rubbing their nose in it does not help and, in fact, can harm your puppy! Supervise. The best thing you can do is to prevent accidents and the best way to do this is to supervise your puppy at all times. You can tether your puppy to your waist with a five or six-foot leash and carefully observe them for signs that they need to go to the bathroom. If you can’t supervise, then crate or confine your puppy. The more accidents your puppy has in the house, the more confusing it will be for them and this can delay house training. Reward, Reward, Reward. It is important to give your puppy a reward for their good behavior. This can be for commands such as sitting and coming to you, or for appropriately eliminating outside. In a puppy, a reward can be a couple kibbles of puppy food or a treat, such as a small piece of meat. The treat should be exciting for them and only available as a result of good behavior. Crate training can take days or weeks, depending on your dog's age, temperament and past experiences. It's important to keep two things in mind while crate training: The crate should always be associated with something pleasant and training should take place in a series of small steps. Don't go too fast. Step 1: Introduce your dog to the crate Place the crate in an area of your house where the family spends a lot of time, such as the family room. Put a soft blanket or towel in the crate. Take the door off and let the dog explore the crate at their leisure. Some dogs will be naturally curious and start sleeping in the crate right away. If yours isn't one of them: Bring them over to the crate and talk to them in a happy tone of voice. Make sure the crate door is open and secured so that it won't hit your dog and frighten them. Encourage your dog to enter the crate by dropping some small food treats nearby, then just inside the door, and finally, all the way inside the crate. If they refuse to go all the way in at first, that's OK; don't force them to enter. Continue tossing treats into the crate until your dog will walk calmly all the way into the crate to get the food. If they aren’t interested in treats, try tossing a favorite toy in the crate. This step may take a few minutes or as long as several days. Step 2: Feed your dog meals in the crate After introducing your dog to the crate, begin feeding them their regular meals near the crate. This will create a pleasant association with the crate. If your dog is readily entering the crate when you begin Step 2, place the food dish all the way at the back of the crate. If they remain reluctant to enter, put the dish only as far inside as they will readily go without becoming fearful or anxious. Each time you feed them, place the dish a little further back in the crate. Once your dog is standing comfortably in the crate to eat their meal, you can close the door while they’re eating. The first time you do this, open the door as soon as they finish their meal. With each successive feeding, leave the door closed a few minutes longer, until they’re staying in the crate for 10 minutes or so after eating. If they begin to whine to be let out, you may have increased the length of time too quickly. Next time, try leaving them in the crate for a shorter time period. If they do whine or cry in the crate, don’t let them out until they stop. Otherwise, they'll learn that the way to get out of the crate is to whine, so they'll keep doing it. Step 3: Practice with longer crating periods After your dog is eating their regular meals in the crate with no sign of fear or anxiety, you can confine them there for short time periods while you're home. Call them over to the crate and give them a treat. Give them a command to enter, such as "crate." Encourage them by pointing to the inside of the crate with a treat in your hand. After your dog enters the crate, praise them, give them the treat and close the door. Sit quietly near the crate for five to 10 minutes and then go into another room for a few minutes. Return, sit quietly again for a short time and then let them out. Repeat this process several times a day, gradually increasing the length of time you leave them in the crate and the length of time you're out of sight. Once your dog will stay quietly in the crate for about 30 minutes with you mostly out of sight, you can begin leaving them crated when you're gone for short time periods and/or letting them sleep there at night. This may take several days or weeks. Step 4, Part A: Crate your dog when you leave After your dog can spend about 30 minutes in the crate without becoming anxious or afraid, you can begin leaving them crated for short periods when you leave the house. Put them in the crate using your regular command and a treat. You might also want to leave them with a few safe toys in the crate. Vary the moment during your "getting ready to leave" routine that you put your dog in the crate. Although they shouldn't be crated for a long time before you leave, you can crate them anywhere from five to 20 minutes prior to leaving. Don't make your departures emotional and prolonged—they should be matter-of-fact. Praise your dog briefly, give them a treat for entering the crate and then leave quietly. When you return home, don't reward your dog for excited behavior by responding to them in an enthusiastic way. Keep arrivals low-key to avoid increasing their anxiety over when you will return. Continue to crate your dog for short periods from time to time when you're home so they don't associate crating with being left alone. Step 4, Part B: Crate your dog at night Put your dog in the crate using your regular command and a treat. Initially, it may be a good idea to put the crate in your bedroom or nearby in a hallway, especially if you have a puppy. Puppies often need to go outside to eliminate during the night and you'll want to be able to hear your puppy when they whine to be let outside. Older dogs should also initially be kept nearby so they don't associate the crate with social isolation. Once your dog is sleeping comfortably through the night with the crate near you, you can begin to gradually move it to the location you prefer, although time spent with your dog—even sleep time—is a chance to strengthen the bond between you and your pet. Potential problems Whining: If your dog whines or cries while in the crate at night, it may be difficult to decide whether they’re whining to be let out of the crate, or whether they need to be let outside to eliminate. If you've followed the training procedures outlined above, then your dog hasn't been rewarded for whining in the past by being released from their crate. If that is the case, try to ignore the whining. If your dog is just testing you, they'll probably stop whining soon. Yelling at them or pounding on the crate will only make things worse. If the whining continues after you've ignored them for several minutes, use the phrase they associate with going outside to eliminate. If they respond and become excited, take them outside. This should be a trip with a purpose, not play time. If you're convinced that your dog doesn't need to eliminate, the best response is to ignore them until they stop whining. Don't give in; if you do, you'll teach your dog to whine loud and long to get what they want. If you've progressed gradually through the training steps and haven't done too much too fast, you'll be less likely to encounter this problem. If the problem becomes unmanageable, you may need to start the crate training process over again. Separation anxiety: Attempting to use the crate as a remedy for separation anxiety won't solve the problem. A crate may prevent your dog from being destructive, but they may get injured in an attempt to escape. Separation anxiety problems can only be resolved with counterconditioning and desensitization procedures.
Feb. 13, 2022