How to Train a Chow Chow to Not Bite

Hello Jane, It was likely a respect, tolerance issue...put simply he doesn't have any respect for he kids (opposed to adults), he felt uncomfortable next to them, so he decided to respond with aggression to make them move. Chows are unfortunately known to not always give a warning before a bite - that could be behavioral or it might be that the signs they do give are just harder to see with their fur. Either way pup probably lacks respect, impulse control, and tolerance. I wouldn't trust him around kids in the future and would hire professional help to deal with his lack of tolerance, impulse control, and respect around people. It's also possible that there was a toy, object, or person he was guarding at the time that no body saw, and this is a case of resource guarding. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Jane, First, I highly suggest hiring a professional trainer to help you. Check out Jeff Gellman from SolidK9Training, Sean O Shea from the Good Dog, and Thomas from the Canine Educator on YouTube. Aggression is a complex topic that takes a lot of experience and a comprehensive approach. The trainers I have listed have hundreds of videos on the topic if you want to learn more about aggression yourself. Second, whether neutering will help or not depends on the type of aggression. Neutering can decrease testosterone - which can add to aggression, it can decrease competitiveness with other dogs, and generally make training easier, but it will not eliminate the aggression - behavior modification training is what's really needed - neutering might make that training easier though. Third, I don't recommend letting Mocha sleep in the bed with people with aggression going on. My general rule of thumb is that it's only okay to let a dog sleep in your bed if there are no aggression or respect issues and the dog will get off the bed at soon as you say off at all times - since pup has a history of people aggression - no bed. The hallway or in a crate are both fine as long as he won't get into anything out there. Fourth, beating will worsen the aggression. It's important to let pup know that aggression is not acceptable and to have a fair consequence for it, but doing it via beating typically causes human fear aggression and will almost always result in an aggressive dog redirecting their aggression toward you - resulting in a severe bite. Check out Jeff Gellman from SolidK9Training on YouTube to see examples of how he (an aggression expert) very calmly corrects dogs in a clear, calm, and safe way without using his hands on the dog. Also, note that Jeff and other experts use positive reinforcement too to teach pup to respond correctly to situations. The corrections are only to stop the unwanted behavior long enough to have the opportunity to teach something better instead, positive reinforcement makes up 50%-90% of the training typically. Good dog training should be proactive and not just reactive - with situations set up to practice the dog's reactions around people in a controlled setting, with safety measures and the ability to correct the dog from a safe place - using things like e-collars or muzzles, then rewarding the dog for all the good reactions - which should out number the bad reactions if the training is done correction. Before you do any of this, typically a foundation of respect is laid out through obedience exercises and strict household rules. The best way to earn a dog's respect is through structure, boundaries, consistency, and training that challenges their minds to think and choose to listen - not physical coercion. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Yvonne, First, I suggest desensitizing him to being touched and handled. Use his daily meal kibble at least once per day to reward him for tolerating being touched. Measure his food out into a Sandwich baggie instead of grabbing it out of his bowl. Gently touch an area of his body that he tolerates best, like his shoulder and while you are touching him, feed him a treat with your other hand. As soon as he finishes the treat, stop touching him. For example: Touch his shoulder and feed a treat. Touch his paw and feed a treat. Touch his ear and feed a treat. Touch his tail and feed a treat. Touch his belly and feed a treat. Repeat touching him all of his body gently, one area at a time while you feed the treats. Be gentle and go slow with this to that he isn't overwhelmed. If he seems nervous about an area, make that area more fun and focus on that area carefully for longer with more treats until he is comfortable with it after several training sessions. Continue to practice this even into adulthood. Practice often until he tolerates touch well, and periodically after that to maintain his tolerance. Also, work on the Leave It command for general biting. If after reading the article linked below, you feel like the biting is not normal puppy biting, but something more severe, hire a professional trainer who is very experienced with different types of aggression to help you. Puppy biting is very normal, but true aggression at this age needs to be addressed as soon as possible because the potential outcome is far better if it is addressed early, and a lot less dangerous to work on before 6 months of age - since dogs' jaws get stronger starting at 5-8 months of age generally. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Valerie, I suggest checking out solidk9training.com. See if there is a weekend workshop within any nearby states happening that you could attend with your dog. The trainer, Jeff Gellman does board and train, Skype sessions, and weekend workshops in a few states that he travels to. I would find a trainer like that who specializes in aggression. He may not be beyond help but it will be a lot of work and you need the right person to work with him and you - most trainers are not experienced with multiple types of aggression. You will also need to continue a lot of structure in his life once the aggression is addressed. He probably can't be given as much freedom to do whatever he wants - he needs to be told how to respond in situations, but with the right management it might be something you could address. Without evaluating him in person I can't really say one way or the other though. Even if the aggression improves with help, I do NOT suggest breeding him - temperament is inherited and he may produce aggressive puppies who tend to be suspicious of strangers also. Sean O Shea from the Good Dog may also be closer to you, or Thomas from America's Canine Educator www.SolidK9training.com - Jeff Gellman https://thegooddog.net/ - Sean O'Shea https://www.americascanineeducator.com/ - Thomas All three of these trainers have Youtube channels showing their work also. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden