How to Train a Corgi Puppy to Not Bite
How to Train a Corgi Puppy to Not Bite
Medium difficulty iconMedium
Time icon3-6 Weeks
Behavior training category iconBehavior
Introduction

You love playing with your Corgi puppy. You let him nibble on your fingers as you scratch his ears. You encourage him to pounce on you hands during play time. Then one day, "ouch!" He bites down on your hand and this time, it hurts! Your puppy looks at you, confused, wondering why you stopped the fun game all of the sudden. As far as they know, this is what playtime should be like.

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Defining Tasks

Nibbling and mouthing are normal behaviors for all puppies, especially for a herding animal like Corgis. However, as your Corgi puppy's adult teeth begin to grow in, a nip stops being so cute. It is important to train your Corgi puppy not to bite at an early age to prevent issues as they grow. You can't expect your pup to understand overnight that he shouldn't bite. After all,  biting things is the way puppies naturally understand their world and play fighting is the way they learn to become grown-up dogs. But, with consistent training, you can help your puppy distinguish between what they are and aren't allowed to bite.

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Getting Started

Set aside time each day to train your Corgi puppy not to bite. You can use training treats to reward the behaviors you like, but do not use physical punishment to reprimand the behaviors you don't. Punishing your puppy physically will only teach him to be more aggressive. Instead, invest in a variety of toys that your puppy can bite instead, such as tug toys. If biting is very bad, you can try putting a product like Bitter Apple or Vick's VapoRub on your hands during training sessions.

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The Yelping Method

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1

Start playing with your Corgi

Use a toy, not your hands, to encourage your puppy to start playing with you. Allow him to nibble on your fingers as you play.

2

React when the bite is uncomfortable

As soon as your Corgi puppy bites down on your hand to the point where it causes discomfort, yelp loudly. A high-pitched noise is good because it mimics the sounds your pup's brothers and sisters would make during play fighting.

3

Let your hand go limp

Don't try to pull your hand out of your puppy's mouth as this action will only encourage him to chase it down. Instead, let your hand go still or limp, so it is no longer fun to play with. Your puppy should let go when you yelp or once your hand is "boring."

4

Reward him for letting go

When your puppy lets go of your hand, or even better, licks you as an apology, give him a treat. With puppies, you always want to reward good behaviors rather than punish bad ones.

5

Start from the beginning

It will take several training sessions for your Corgi to realize what you are trying to teach him. Repeat this process three or four times during a session. Practicing every day will help your puppy understand that biting is not okay.

The Time Out Method

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Effective

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1

Play with your pup

Start a game with your puppy using a toy and let him nibble or bite your fingers. Don't react until your puppy bites too hard.

2

Yelp and walk away

When your Corgi puppy gets too excited and really bites down on your hand, say "ouch" or yelp and then walk away. If your puppy follows you and tries to keep biting your ankles, leave him alone in a puppy-proofed room.

3

Put your puppy in time out

Don't start playing with your puppy again for at least 20 to 30 seconds. You want to teach him that biting ends the fun. His desire to keep playing will drive him to learn the rules to the game.

4

Calmly return to the game and repeat

Without making a big fuss, start what you were doing again. Encourage your Corgi puppy to return to the game. When your puppy bites too hard, repeat the time-out process again.

5

Add rules as needed

Once your puppy gets the hang of being gentle during play time, you can keep using this technique to stop him from even nibbling on you. Yelping and putting your puppy in time out any time his teeth touch your skin can encourage him to only bite his toys rather than you.

The Replacement Method

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1

Choose a toy you know your puppy loves

Start carrying around your puppy's favorite toy, or if not possible, have a sense of where it is in the house most of the time. For this method, you will need to be able to quickly offer an alternative to your pup's biting habits.

2

Give your puppy something to bite

Some Corgis are more likely to nip at your heels than your fingers. Figure out what actions encourage your puppy to nip or bite and then create a controlled situation using those actions.

3

Freeze!

As soon as your puppy starts to nip at your hands or feet, stop moving. In general, puppies grab at things that look like something worth chasing. This can be a pant leg or your fingers. By stopping the movement, the allure of whatever your puppy is chasing wears off.

4

Offer an enticing replacement

Wave your puppy's favorite toy to encourage him to let go of whatever part of you he is biting. If you don't have the toy on you, just stay still until your puppy lets go on his own.

5

Reward him for good behavior

If you were carrying the toy, let your puppy have it. If you weren't, go get it quickly and give it to him. You may also want to give him a treat when he lets go of you quickly. However, be careful with your rewards. Dogs, and puppies especially, don't have long memories. The reward should come as close to the action you want to encourage as possible so your Corgi puppy understands what behavior you want to see more of.

Written by Christina Gunning

Veterinary reviewed by:

Published: 03/12/2018, edited: 01/08/2021

Training Questions and Answers

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Scooby
Dog breed icon
Pembroke Welsh Corgi
Dog age icon
8 Weeks
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He is very sassy. When I tell him no he barks back. He nibbles at my hands and ankles. He will have spurts of “crazy” moments where he jumps, barks, and bites. Please help!

Jan. 20, 2021

Scooby's Owner

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Alisha Smith - Alisha S., Dog Trainer

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253 Dog owners recommended

Hello! Here is information on nipping/biting. Nipping: Puppies may nip for a number of reasons. Nipping can be a means of energy release, getting attention, interacting and exploring their environment or it could be a habit that helps with teething. Whatever the cause, nipping can still be painful for the receiver, and it’s an action that pet parents want to curb. Some ways to stop biting before it becomes a real problem include: Using teething toys. Distracting with and redirecting your dog’s biting to safe and durable chew toys is one way to keep them from focusing their mouthy energies to an approved location and teach them what biting habits are acceptable. Making sure your dog is getting the proper amount of exercise. Exercise is huge. Different dogs have different exercise needs based on their breed and size, so check with your veterinarian to make sure that yours is getting the exercise they need. Dogs—and especially puppies—use their playtime to get out extra energy. With too much pent-up energy, your pup may resort to play biting. Having them expel their energy in positive ways - including both physical and mental exercise - will help mitigate extra nips. Being consistent. Training your dog takes patience, practice and consistency. With the right training techniques and commitment, your dog will learn what is preferred behavior. While sometimes it may be easier to let a little nipping activity go, be sure to remain consistent in your cues and redirection. That way, boundaries are clear to your dog. Using positive reinforcement. To establish preferred behaviors, use positive reinforcement when your dog exhibits the correct behavior. For instance, praise and treat your puppy when they listen to your cue to stop unwanted biting as well as when they choose an appropriate teething toy on their own. Saying “Ouch!” The next time your puppy becomes too exuberant and nips you, say “OUCH!” in a very shocked tone and immediately stop playing with them. Your puppy should learn - just as they did with their littermates - that their form of play has become unwanted. When they stop, ensure that you follow up with positive reinforcement by offering praise, treat and/or resuming play. Letting every interaction with your puppy be a learning opportunity. While there are moments of dedicated training time, every interaction with your dog can be used as a potential teaching moment.

Jan. 20, 2021

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Puppy
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Rat Terrier
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7 Years
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Whenever someone comes to visit puppy runs to the door barking and growling and the door and when I open the door he'll run up and bite them barking. How can I get him to stop

Jan. 14, 2021

Puppy's Owner

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Alisha Smith - Alisha S., Dog Trainer

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253 Dog owners recommended

Hello there. It sounds like you have your hands full. I am going to provide you with information on how to correct this behavior. You won’t be able to solve your dog’s overprotective behavior in one day. In the meantime, you don’t want to put your life on hold. You can still invite guests into your home as long as you prioritize managing your dog’s behavior. You’ll need a short-term strategy to start showing your overprotective dog what behavior is unacceptable while also keeping your guests safe. There are a few ways to do this. Leash: Keeping your dog on a leash while friends are visiting gives you control over your dog’s actions. Leash him up before the doorbell rings and keep him close as you greet your guests. During the visit, you can let the leash drag and only use it if you have to. Muzzle: If you feel his behavior warrants the use of a muzzle for the time being while you work on solving this problem, then it may be a wise choice. Separate Room: Your dog won’t get better without practice, but sometimes you have to weigh the risks versus rewards. If your overprotective dog is in the beginning stages of training, keeping him separated from guests might be best. You don’t want to put a friend’s safety at risk or needlessly stress out your dog. As long as you keep working toward stopping the behavior, separating an overprotective dog from company is a temporary management solution. Start Obedience Training Obedience training is a must for every dog, and it’s especially important for overprotective dogs. Working with your dog on things like “sit-stay,” “down-stay,” and “heel,” will help build his impulse control. He’ll start seeing you as a capable leader and will turn to you for guidance. A mistake many pup parents make is stopping obedience training once their dog masters the basics skills. Being well-trained is about more than knowing how to sit when a person holds a treat in front of their face. It’s a lifetime lesson, and even senior dogs need regular training. Commit to training your dog several times a day for short periods of time. Make Your Dog Work for Affection You can’t help but smother your dog with love every time he’s within petting distance, but that isn’t always what’s best for him. He will start to feel entitled to your attention, and that’s part of the problem. To remedy this, initiate a “work for it” program that allows you to show your dog affection as long as he earns your attention in appropriate ways. Make him sit, stay calm, and do whatever else you ask before doling out whatever it is he wants. If he’s excited for dinner, make him sit and leave it before digging in. If he wants in your lap, ask him to do a trick first. Never give your dog attention if he rudely nudges your hand or barks in your face. He needs to know polite behavior, and polite behavior only, is how he gets what he wants. You ignore everything else. Involve Other People in the Dog’s Life Most overprotective dogs choose to guard only the person they feel closest to. It’s usually the same person who fills their food bowls, takes them on walks, and handles training. They become obsessively attached, and a strong bond gradually mutates into overprotective behavior. Putting some space between you and your dog will help him learn to trust other people. Enlist the entire family’s help and take a step back in your role as primary caregiver. Have someone else feed the dog a few times a week, and encourage other people to engage her in playtime. This will help him be more comfortable with different people. Socialize Socialization is best done during the puppy stages, but even adult and senior dogs benefit from new experiences. Exposing your overprotective dog to new places, experiences, and people, will help him learn that not everyone is out to hurt you. Make sure each new experience is positive, and encourage your dog without forcing him to interact. If your dog is afraid, you don’t want to make things worse. Take socialization at the pace he’s comfortable with. If he seems overwhelmed, back up and try something a little smaller. These are some general ideas and they can be modified to fit your dynamic. These behaviors do take time, I am talking months, to correct. And sometimes the behaviors get worse before they get better. So just push through that time if that starts to happen. Please let me know if you have any additional questions. Thank you for writing in!

Jan. 14, 2021

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Nike
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Corgi Chihuahua
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4 Months
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Hi Trainers, and thanks for taking the time! Nike here is my heart. He has 2 issues; first, the benign one: How do I teach him to stay? It seems like a 2-person job! I take him thru commands every day, but no matter how I try, i can't get him to stay for even a moment as i back away - in order to treat him, and reinforce the behavior. Advice? The 2nd issue is more pernicious. He's becoming good aggressive, most especially w/the cat - and even tho I've had them eating in close quarters (and even out of the same bowl, for training and tolerance purposes) but now all the sudden at 4 mos, he's getting snarly when the cat even approaches him while he's eating his favorite treats. What gives? I use all positive reinforcement in his training - or have up til now, and have recently had to employ a 2oz water bottle for a quick spray to the face as a correction. Which is a cat method, but seems to work for less heinous offenses like coffee table surfing. The food guarding though, has got me licked! What to do?

Dec. 10, 2020

Nike's Owner

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Caitlin Crittenden - Dog Trainer

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Hello Chelsea, For the Stay, I recommend purchasing a long training leash, looping the leash around something secure that's behind pup, like a stairway banister, then feeding the leash to where you are standing as you back way. When pup tries to follow you, use the leash that's connect to pup and looped around something behind pup, and you're holding the handle, to tug pup back a bit. When pup stays, even if you had to help with the leash tugging them back, while you step a couple feet away, then toss pup a treat. Unfortunately, having the cat so close while pup eats might actually be what's causing the aggression. Pup may feel like they are competing with the cat for food, creating stress around meal times. That stress can lead to defensiveness around the food. I wouldn't feel bad about that since it's a very common mistake to disturb dogs while eating in hopes of preventing food aggression - but when it's not made fun for pup it can have the opposite effect than what was intended. To start, feed the animals away from each other. When not training, I would feed pup in a closed crate so the cat can't bother them while they eat and they can start to relax during meals. I would also work on creating a positive association about the cat being nearby while pup is eating, to change pup's feelings of competing with the cat. To do this, back tie pup somewhere for safety reasons while you feed them, with a leash that is long enough pup won't feel it unless they charge toward the cat. Have someone else walk the cat past pup at a distance that pup's body language can stay completely relaxed while they pass. As the cat passes, give pup more food or toss extra delicious treats into pup's bowl. Practice this often as the relaxed distance. As pup improves, gradually practice with the cat closer, just one foot closer at a time, until the cat can eventually walk by within three or four feet and pup stay completely relaxed and happy about it. Do not allow the cat to bother pup's food in general at any point. Feed the animals separately to avoid future stress and competing. Be sure to do this with pup's back tie leash length in mind, to ensure that the cat is never close enough that pup could actually reach the cat if you moved the training forward sooner than pup was ready for and pup lunged at the cat - if that happens, calmly correct pup, but then go back a step in training and practice at that step for longer before decreasing distance again, knowing that the cat was probably too close before during the training. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Dec. 11, 2020


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