How to Train a Husky Puppy to Not Bite

Hello Conlan, Does pup have any history of aggression? Is the nipping purely out of excitement and play or are their any other signs of aggression. If the nipping is related to other respect or aggression issues I would proceed with the help of a trainer who specializes in aggression and behavior issues, who can further evaluate the situation and tailor a training plan to you. If this is aggression related there is the risk of a bite of you do the training yourself without the right help. If the nipping is truly out of excitement and play, then I suggest working on some boundaries and teaching impulse control. Leave It method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite Jumping and general rudeness - only do this for play biting. For aggression a different approach is needed. https://youtu.be/EcwvUOf5oOg Impulse control: Place: https://youtu.be/omg5DVPWIWo Crate manners: https://youtu.be/mn5HTiryZN8 Structured heel to build impulse pulse control, calmness and respect: https://youtu.be/OTiKVc4ZZWo Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Diana, First, I suggest working on the Leave It command from the Leave It method from the article linked below for the biting: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite When she gets really worked up and has trouble calming down, use the Out command or give her a food stuffed chew toy in a crate or exercise pen to let her calm back down - young puppies will often act wild when they are actually tired and need a rest time. Out command, "How to Teach a Dog the Out Command" heading part: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-the-out-command/ Second, work on teaching her tolerance to being touched and handled. To desensitize her to touch use her meal kibble. Measure her kibble into a bag (don't grab it out of her bowl), and feed her one piece of kibble at a time as a reward for tolerating touch. Start with areas she enjoys being touched on first, until she is comfortable with those areas, and gradually move onto touches in other areas also. Be gentle and try to make the training fun and relaxing for her. For example, gently touch her side while you feed her a treat - the touch should be brief and stop when the treat is gone. Touch her head and feed a treat. Touch her collar and feed a treat. Touch her paw and feed a treat, ect...until she looks forward to being touched. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Sattraj, Check out the Leave method from the article linked below Work on teaching Leave It. Leave it will take time to teach but should help him develop self-control, but while he is still learning Leave It use the Bite Inhibition method since that method can be used right away. Puppy biting is normal at this age and will take time to stop. Be patient and consistent, recognizing that you should see a gradual improvement instead of an instant fix. Puppies have to develop impulse control to improve and that takes time and practice. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Alexander, I highly suggest crate training. A crate will protect him during puppy destructiveness phases, give him the opportunity to learn good habits (like chewing on food stuffed chew toys), and prevent separation anxiety when done right. It can also help him learn to calm down and self-sooth. When you first introduce the crate there will be a few days of crying. This is normal. Check out the Surprise method from the article linked below to help him learn to be quiet. Also feed him food stuffed chew toys in the crate. You can make several stuffed Kong's ahead of time. Put his dog food into a bowl and cover it with water, let it sit out until it turns into mush, mix a bit of peanut butter (NO Xylitol - it's toxic), or liver paste or cheese into the mush. Loosely stuff the Kong's with the mixture and freeze them. Grab one from the freezer when you put him into the crate for longer periods of time. Surprise method: https://wagwalking.com/training/like-a-crate As great as training, play time and exercise are it sounds like what is lacking is actually time for him to practice self-soothing and calmness - just like any other skill, puppies need opportunities to practice these things with guidance in order to improve at them. A crate is a safe way to practice them. Stay consistent and don't let puppy out when he cries unless you know he truly needs to go potty (even then try to to it let him out when he is barking, wait until he is quiet for a second first). If the whining continues past two weeks you can correct it using a small canister of unscented pressurized air, Pet Convincer, blown at his side through the crate, in combination with rewards for when he quiets down, but most young puppies just need time and consistency to adjust. I generally suggest giving it two weeks of ignoring the crying if you live somewhere where that's an option. After two weeks or if you live somewhere that you cannot let him cry, then I suggest correcting with something like the unscented air pet Convincer (do NOT use citronella) combined with treats when quiet. Only spray a small puff of air at his side and never his face. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Sean, Check out the video linked below that talks about jumping, mouthing, and being rough. https://youtu.be/EcwvUOf5oOg I also suggest working on a Place command - where pup works up to being able to stay on Place for 1-2 hours to help build his impulse control and teach calmness. Place: https://youtu.be/omg5DVPWIWo Your attitude and energy while doing this should be calm and confident for pup to respond the best to the training. Expect that pup can do this and work him through the training by being consistent about new rules and expectations and calmly executing them. You will likely need to keep pup with you on a leash for a while when you are home (and crate while gone) so that you and effectively enforce the new boundaries for pup to help him learn. Mouthing and general ride behaviors often aren't true aggression. If you have seen or see true signs of aggression, with pup intending to truly harm you, seek professional help from a trainer who specializes in behavior issues and aggression and has a lot of experience - some of the training will still be the same, but additional safety measures and management, boundaries, and structure will also be needed Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Brenda, I suggest working on a few things to help him develop impulse control first: Leave It command from the Leave It method...Use this command to tell him to stop or not start biting once you have taught the command well - like the method outlines: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite Out command (which means leave the area), use this command to tell him to leave an area, especially kids' or guests' presence, when the temptation is too much for him. There is a section on teaching the Out command, follow that. There is also a section on using Out to deal with pushy behavior also follow that section once he understands the command, to make him whoever he is biting. If he is biting someone other than you, you can get between him and kids or guests and be the one to enforce it for them. https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-the-out-command/ Place command - have him work up to staying on Place for two hours. This is a good general command, teaches calmness and impulse control, and can help with management in general. This will take some time and practice, starting with just a couple of minutes on Place at first. https://thegooddog.net/training-videos/free-how-to-training-videos/learn-to-train-the-good-dog-way-place-command-the-good-dog-training-tips/ At this age the biting could be partially a respect issue too. Some dogs have a strong defense drive and when you apply physical pressure of any kind they will fight back against the pressure instead of submitting and stopping the behavior. It is especially important with these dogs to use methods that teach respect but teach it using body language, consistently, obedience commands, structure, and other things that teach the dog's mind - instead of just getting into a physical confrontation with them. It is also very important for the dog to understand why they are being disciplined and to have the skills to stop themselves. Working on commands like Out and Leave It - that help the dog understand what you are asking of them, and commands like Place, Leave It, and the additional commands I have linked below can help build the impulse control and respect too. Crate manners: https://thegooddog.net/training-videos/free-how-to-training-videos/learn-to-train-the-good-dog-way-the-crate/ Thresholds: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-w28C2g68M Heel article - The turns method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Heel Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTiKVc4ZZWo Consistency method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-doberman-to-listen-to-you https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EcwvUOf5oOg Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Mariam, First, know that the biting is completely normal and not normally a sign of future aggression at this age. Almost all puppies mouth - which is where they bite to learn about the world around them, learn how to control the pressure of their mouths, initiate play with other puppies, and sooth sore mouths. Before 5 months of age it's completely normal and even healthy. With that said you are not another puppy so biting can really hurt! And puppies do need to be taught not to bite humans before their jaws strengthen around 5 months of age. Check out the article linked below. Work on teaching the "Leave It" command from the :Leave It method - this will help pup learn self-control, which is important for stopping biting. This will take a bit to teach pup so practice frequently and try to stay as calm as possible when pup bites (easier said than done I know). Reacting with anger or excitement can actually get some puppies more excited or cause them to fight back if they don't understand what you are doing - that's why calmly working on something like Leave It is important. Once pup understands Leave It and can do that well, then you can also use the Pressure method found in the same article as a follow-through if you tell pup to "Leave It" and they disobey and continue biting. It's important for the Leave It command to be taught and practiced before using the Pressure method though - so pup doesn't just think you are playing. I suggest working on a few things to help him develop impulse control first: Leave It command from the Leave It method...Use this command to tell him to stop or not start biting once you have taught the command well - like the method outlines: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite Another good command to teach is Out - which means leave the area. This command is good for when the temptation to bite just seems like too much for pup and they need to walk away completely to calm down. This is also a good command to use if there are kids in the house. You can enforce the command for them by getting between them and pup and walking pup out of the room like the "How to Use Out to Deal with Pushiness" section deals with in that article. https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-the-out-command/ Many puppies also get really wound up when over-tired (sort of like a toddler having a tantrum). When pup just can't seem to calm down they may actually need a rest time. I suggest crating them with a dog-food stuffed Kong chew toy for a bit during these times. A puppies may also get really wound up if they haven't been mentally or physically stimulated yet that day (such as a training session or focused walk). Puppies generally learn to control the pressure of their bites - called Bite Inhibition, by playing with other puppies while young. I highly suggest enrolling puppy in a puppy class or puppy play group where they can have time to play with other, off-leash puppies in a clean, secure area. Check out the article linked below for tips on when to go and what to look for in a class - many large pet stores also offer free puppy play groups. Call around and see if there is one in your area if you don't want to sign up for an entire class. https://www.petful.com/behaviors/puppy-classes-when-to-start/ Finally, I suggest beginning to teach a Place command (which is like go to your bed). This will be a long-term goal. Start with teaching pup how to stay on their Place for just a couple of minutes, and over the next few months work up to staying on Place for two hours even when there are distractions like guests. Place can make life with a dog a lot calmer and give you a great management tool for times when pup gets really excited or rough. It also helps pup learn calmness and impulse control. https://thegooddog.net/training-videos/free-how-to-training-videos/learn-to-train-the-good-dog-way-place-command-the-good-dog-training-tips/ Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Terry, First, it's important to determine what was going on when the biting happened. Some dogs will mock-bite when playing and rough housing. That type of biting, although not always wanted, isn't necessarily aggression. There will be no bite marks after, and there will be other signs of play like a play bow, relaxed, happy body language, or trying to get your dog to chase her. When that's the case, working on more structured obedience can help, such as Out, Place, Leave It, and Quiet. Teaching her to be calmer using those commands and following through consistently with them can help set a calmer tone in general for your household - it can also help reduce your other dog's stress. Out: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-the-out-command/ Place: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=omg5DVPWIWo Leave It method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite Quiet method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bark If the biting was more aggressive in nature, then it's time to hire a professional trainer who specializes in behavior issue and aggression to come to your home and work with you and the dogs in person. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden