How to Train a Husky to Be Alone

Medium
2-6 Months
General

Introduction

Imagine putting on your shoes, gathering your keys, waving goodbye to your Husky, and walking out your front door. You stay away for an hour and return to find... nothing different. 

Not what you were expecting to hear? You might find that situation rather boring, but that is exactly the point. Wouldn't you love for your departures and returns to be boring? If your dog struggles with being alone, departures and returns might be anything but boring right now. They might be anxiety filled, frustrating, emotional, and costly. 

Many dogs who do not know how to act properly when they are alone resort to destructive behaviors while on their own. Some dogs impale themselves trying to escape, others eliminate on your rug, and others destroy your property. Some dogs do this because of true separation anxiety, but most do it because of boredom and lack of supervision. Your dog simply figured out that shredding your pillow up was a great way to entertain himself and nobody was there to tell him otherwise or to enforce the rules.

Defining Tasks

Having a dog that can be alone is vital to life in Western culture. Chances are that your dog cannot go everywhere with you. If you live in the city or in the suburbs, close to other people, then noise and destructiveness from your dog can be an especially big problem, especially if you rent your home. Teaching your dog how to handle being alone not only makes fulfilling essential life requirements, like going to work, not getting kicked out of your rental apartment, and not replacing your couch thirty times, more possible, but it also saves your dog from a lot of stress and future confinement.

Teaching your dog how to be alone is not always a quick process. If you are teaching your dog before he has had the chance to develop any bad habits or separation anxiety, then the process will go much quicker and be much easier. Expect this to take at least two months, and possibly six months or longer if your dog has been struggling with being left alone for a while. Unlike a command such as 'sit', the progress with this will likely be gradual, opposed to instant. Remember to watch for signs of gradual improvement, so that you do not get discouraged while your dog is still learning. Any improvement in this area is worth celebrating and should provide encouragement for continuing the training.

The goals for most of the methods are to teach your dog: how to self-entertain better, how to be more independent, how to remain calm, and how to relax. Your dog also might need more confinement in order to prevent destructiveness and to learn appropriate ways to pass his time. The issue could be anxiety based or boredom based. In either case, Fido would benefit from you providing him with appropriate things to do while you are gone, such as safe food puzzle toys, and food stuffed hollow chew toys.

If your dog already struggles with being alone, and the training is not purely preventative, then you may want to utilize more than one method for teaching him how to be alone. For example, you can teach him how to relax and handle being alone in the crate using 'The Crate Method', while also working on teaching him more independence and self-control using 'The Obedience Method'.

Getting Started

To get started you will need lots of small, tasty treats. If your dog is very food motivated, then you can use his own dry dog food if your wish. If you are using 'The Crate Method', then you will need a crate that is large enough for your dog to stand up, turn around, and lie down. You will also need a Kong or other hollow chew toy, that can be stuffed with kibble and is safe for your dog to have when he is alone. 

If you are using 'The Obedience Method', then you will also need a long leash, between twenty and fifty feet long. You will also need a resource, such as Wag! Walking's Training Guides page, for how to train obedience commands such as 'stay', 'sit', 'down', 'place', and 'out'.  Another good option is a local obedience class that you can attend, where those commands are covered. You might also need an assistant to help you train your dog how to do the distance commands, such as 'down-stay'.

If you are using 'The In and Out Method' then you will also need a camera that will transmit live video feed to your phone, tablet, or other device, as well as a device to view the transmission on. Good options might include: video baby monitors with both a camera monitor and a viewer monitor, video security camera that can be viewed remotely from a smartphone or other portable device, a GoPro and GoPro live viewing application on a smartphone or tablet device, or two tablets or smartphones that can transmit and receive video feed on the mute setting on an application such as Skype or Facetime. You will also need a source of entertainment for your dog while you are away. Good sources of entertainment can include food stuffed hollow chew toys, such as Kongs, durable food filled puzzle toys, and automatic, computerized kibble dispensing machines, that are programmed to reward your dog for quiet and calm behaviors. With all of the methods, you will need patience, perseverance, relaxed body language, and a calm and confident attitude.

The Crate Method

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Step
1
Introduce crate
To begin, you will need to get your pup used to the crate. Feed him his meals in the crate with the door open. Place treats into the open crate for him to find. Whenever you catch him in the crate looking for treats, go over to him and drop treats into the crate while he is inside.
Step
2
Close the door
When your dog is comfortable going into the crate, then stuff a Kong or other hollow chew toy with food, such as kibble, peanut butter, and treats. Encourage your dog to go into the crate, and when he is inside, give him the food stuffed Kong to chew on, close the door to the crate, and walk out of the room for three minutes. Be sure to read the ingredient label on any human food, such as peanut butter, and make sure that it does NOT contain xylitol or any other substance that is toxic to dogs.
Step
3
Return
After three minutes have passed, when your dog is quiet for at least two seconds, then walk back into the room and open the door to the crate. If he chooses to stay in the crate with his toy, then drop another treat into the crate for him every five minutes that he remains inside. If he wishes to leave the crate, then let him, but do not let him take the Kong out of the crate. The Kong is a special toy reserved only for the crate.
Step
4
Increase time
Gradually increase the amount of time that your dog must stay in the crate for, only freeing him from the crate while he is being quiet. Reward and encourage calm behavior by occasionally dropping treats inside the crate and by placing a food stuffed hollow chew toy inside the crate with him. Gradually increase the amount of time until you reach one hour.
Step
5
Crate while present
Crate Fido when you are at home for thirty minutes at a time, so that being crated will not be associated only with your departure and long periods of time.
Step
6
Start early
Work on crate training as early as possible. If your Husky is still a puppy, then introduce the crate in a fun way as early as possible. If your dog is older or is a recent rescue, then begin to work on crate training now. That way your dog will be comfortable being in his crate by the time you need to leave him in it for long periods of time. If your dog is new, this will also help him to learn balance between being with you and being by himself, while he is still getting attached to you and used to his surroundings.
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The Obedience Method

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Step
1
Teach basic obedience
To begin, teach your dog basic obedience commands, such as 'stay', 'heel', 'down', 'sit', 'place', and 'out'.
Step
2
Purchase a long leash
Purchase a long leash, between twenty and fifty feet long. Go somewhere calm, with lots of space, and secure objects that you can attach your long leash to, such as trees, secure fence posts, or poles. You can also have an assistant hold the leash instead of attaching it to something.
Step
3
Work on distance commands
Attach the end of your dog's leash to a secure object or have your assistant hold it. Practice 'down stays' and 'sit stays' with your dog from a distance.
Step
4
Practice 'place'
After you have taught the 'place' command, have your dog stay in his place while you move about your home without him. Gradually increase the amount of time that he must stay in his place for, until you have worked up to one hour. Practice this at least once a day, so that he will become comfortable being by himself in your home, while you are also at home.
Step
5
Practice 'out'
After you have taught your dog the 'out' command, which simply means that he has to leave the area, tell him "out" whenever he is being pushy or clingy. Do not pet him if he is pawing at you, whining for attention, nudging your hands, sitting on top of you, or generally being demanding. When he is being calm and polite, if you wish to pet him, then call him over so that you are the one initiating the interaction. When you are done petting him, end the interaction by telling him "out" or "place", and enforcing the command by making him leave or go to his place.
Recommend training method?

The In and Out Method

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Step
1
Decide
To begin, evaluate whether or not your dog is a danger to himself when left alone. If your dog is not likely to do something dangerous, such as chew on a power cord or ingest inedible objects, then move onto the next step. If your dog is a danger to himself when left alone for any length of time, choose a different method .
Step
2
Hide a camera
Hide a camera somewhere in your home that will allow you to spy on your dog while you are gone. Good camera options for this are: GoPro cameras, video security cameras, video baby monitors with good ranges, or tablets or smartphones with a video application such as Skype or Facetime, that can be used on mute and viewed from another phone or device.
Step
3
Spy
With your your dog loose in your home, and your camera in place, casually gather your things and walk out your front door. When you get outside, stand or sit somewhere where your dog cannot see or hear you, then watch your dog on the camera from your smartphone app or other viewing device.
Step
4
Go back inside
Wait outside for five minutes. After five minutes, when your dog is calm for at least three seconds, then walk back inside while he is being calm. When you walk back inside, ignore your dog for awhile, and act as if nothing happened.
Step
5
Gradually increase time
Over time, as your dog improves, gradually increase the amount of time that you leave for. The goal is to make your departures and returns extremely boring and non-eventful. You want your dog to believe that your coming and going is extremely normal, non-eventful, and often short. Increase the amount of time that you leave for, until you have reached two hours or more, and your dog can remain calm while you are gone for that amount of time.
Step
6
Provide entertainment
When you leave your pup for thirty minutes or longer, give her something interesting and safe to do while you are gone. Things that can provide entertainment for her include: food stuffed Kongs and other hollow chew toys, durable kibble filled puzzle toys, or automatic computerized food dispensers that are programmed to reward your dog intermittently for quiet and calm behaviors.
Recommend training method?
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Written by Caitlin Crittenden

Published: 03/13/2018, edited: 01/08/2021

Success Stories and Training Questions

Training Questions and Answers

Question
Midas
Husky
10 Months
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Question
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Midas
Husky
10 Months

He hates to be alone. And when he is he usually is rebellious. For example. He is completely house trained, but I am trying to get him to learn to be in a room without people while people are here. He is screaming and crying. Then I went to try to come him down and he thought he was able to leave. I sat him down and shut the door and I looked through the window and he peed right on the carpet. (We just went on a walk 20 minutes prior). When he is alone he can do destructive things as well as tear open our couch. He is a perfect dog when he is next to me but simply cries until he gets attention.

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
833 Dog owners recommended

Hello Mark, Midas needs to be crate trained and crated when separate from you to start with. This will prevent the destructiveness, which can turn into a long term habit if not prevented, and it will give him an opportunity to learn how to be alone safely. The peeing is a sign that he needs to learn to be alone so crating will actually be good for him in that area too. Practice crating him in another room. If he is not familiar with a crate yet, then start by getting him used to one by following one or more of the methods from the article that I have linked below. https://wagwalking.com/training/like-a-crate Once he is familiar with the crate, if you put him inside and he cries, ignore him for thirty-minutes. If during that time he gets quiet at any point, then go to him, drop several tiny treats into the crate, and then leave again. Repeat this whenever he gets quiet for a couple of seconds. As he improves, gradually wait longer and longer before you go to him and reward his quietness, so that he has to remain quiet for longer. At the end of one hour, while he is being quiet, go to him and let him out. You can increase how long he is crated for as he becomes calmer in a crate. You can also give him a food stuffed chew toy while he is in the crate, right when you first put him in there. If he does not give you opportunities to reward his quiet behavior within the thirty-minutes, then also teach him what the word "Quiet" means by following the "Quiet" method from the article that I have linked below. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-to-not-bark Tell Midas "Quiet" when you put him into the crate. If he barks after being told that when you leave, then purchase a Pet Convincer, which is a small canister of pressurized air. Go to him, tell him "Ah Ah", which means no, in a calm but serious tone of voice, and then spray a puff of air at his side through the wire crate, near his ribs. Do NOT spray him in the face. After you spray him, that should surprise him a bit to stop the barking. Leave and then if he remains quiet for a couple of minutes, go back to him and reward him with treats without letting him out of the crate. At first work on rewarding his quietness and correcting his barking for one hour straight while he is in the crate. As he improves, then you can crate him for longer and also give less frequent treats. By then his barking should have decreased. You can also give him a food stuffed Kong or other safe chew toy in the crate, when you first put him in, for this. Keep him crated whenever you are gone for at least six months. He is not ready for freedom in your home yet. Preventing destructiveness now will help him be able to be free in your home for the rest of his life later. If he learns bad habits when you are gone and not there to train him, then those bad habits can turn into lifelong issues that limit his freedom for years to come. Confining him now keeps him safe and earns him more freedom later, when he is ready for it. When he is mature enough that you can leave him alone without him destroying things, then you can use his "Quiet" command, similar corrections for disobedience, and similar rewards for calmness, when you leave him in a room by himself out of a crate, when guests are over, to teach him to relax when he is left out. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Question
Max
Husky
12 Months
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Question
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Max
Husky
12 Months

Max can’t be alone. He cries like crazy none stop. He knows his place and I am working on stay until I allow him to leave his spot. I live in a condo so it is very difficult to just leave him cry until he calms down. I really need to find a solution to be able to leave him alone like a normal dog :( Thank you

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
833 Dog owners recommended

Hello Katherina, For the separation anxiety, I highly suggest crate training. It can seem counter intuitive to crate an anxious dog, but structure is also beneficial there for many dogs, it will keep destructive dogs safe, and there is training you can pair with the crate specifically for anxiety if he doesn't calm down on his own. Check out the article linked below for ways to gradually introduce a crate: https://wagwalking.com/training/like-a-crate He may adjust to your departures on his own once he has been crate trained, has learned to trust you more, and has experienced you returning again each time that you leave, but if not check out the article linked below for more information on separation anxiety. https://www.solidk9training.com/sk9-blog/2013/02/21/separation-anxiety-im-not-seeing-it-at-my-place I suggest practicing the following commands to build his confidence and self-control: Crate exiting and manners: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mn5HTiryZN8 Heel command: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Place: https://youtu.be/omg5DVPWIWo If the barking is still an issue, check out the separation anxiety protocol below: Purchase a high quality electric collar, such as Dogtra, e-collar technologies, Garmin, or Sportdog (do NOT get a cheap, poorly made collar - they can be dangerous). Spend time finding his working level, which is the lowest level he indicates he feels. Check out the video linked below for how to do that: https://youtu.be/1cl3V8vYobM Have him wear an e-collar (electric collar) collar around for a couple of days while it is turned off. If your model doesn't have an off, then just put the collar on the day you start training. Put him in his crate with the e-collar on, tell him "Quiet", pretend like you are leaving and go outside where you can hear him if he barks - make sure he cannot see or hear you through a window where you hide. If you can't hear him, set up a video camera to spy on him with his end on mute. An easy way to do this is with two smart phones or tablets with FaceTime or Skype on mute on his end, or a video baby monitor or GoPro camera with the Live app. If he tries to escape the crate too, use a camera so that you can correct escape attempts in addition to barking. When you are outside, when he barks or tries to escape, correct him with the e-collar. When he gets quiet for at least two minutes, go back inside, drop a few treats into his crate, tell him "Quiet" one time to remind him to be quiet when you leave, then leave again. Practice the training for up to thirty minutes the first time, going inside to reward whenever he is quiet, then leaving again. You can increase the 30 when he starts to show signs of understanding what he is supposed to do. After 30-60 minutes of practice, go back inside while he is quiet, reward him with the treats, then do things around the house for ten minutes while he stays in the crate. If he barks, correct him with the collar remote. When he is calm, after ten minutes calmly let him out of the crate using the method from the video linked below: https://youtu.be/mn5HTiryZN8 Doing the training that way helps him understand what the correction is for (disobedience to your quiet command in this case), and the treats help him realize that being quiet equals good things (and is what he is supposed to be doing), which helps him avoid the correction and gives him a choice (you can be quiet and be corrected or be quiet and avoid the correction). Doing it this way means less corrections in the long run, and him not working himself up barking for long periods is also better for his mental and emotional state and teaches him to relax better. Also, be sure to give him interesting food stuffed chew toys in the crate to alleviate his boredom. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Kenai
Husky
11 Months
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Kenai
Husky
11 Months

Hello. Kenai is such a good boy when he has people around him. Its when he is alone that he has separation anxiety and shows it by crying/screaming and destructiveness. We tried crate training and he broke his way out of an expensive crate. We bought an invisible fence and he respects that but he tries to break his way back into the house. He tore off the screen door, scratches wood chunks out of the garage door etc. But he is so so good when people are around. Its just when he is alone.

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
833 Dog owners recommended

Hello Morgan, First, check I suggest purchasing a more durable crate: https://www.k9ofmine.com/heavy-duty-dog-crates/ Second, work on building his independence and his confidence by adding a lot of structure and predictability into his routine. Things such as making him work for rewards like meals, walks, and pets. Working on "Stay" and "Place," commands while you move away or leave the room, and teaching him to remain inside a crate when the door is open. Change your routine surrounding leaving so that he does not anticipate alone time and build up his anxiety before you leave - which is hard for him to deescalate from, and be sure to give him something to do in the crate during the day (such as a food stuffed Kong to chew on); this is the general protocol for separation anxiety. It is gentle but can take a very long time for some dogs. Third, you will likely need an additional protocol that involves teaching the dog to cope with their own anxiety by making their current anxious go-to behaviors unpleasant, giving them an opportunity to stop those behaviors long enough to learn something new, then rewarding the correct, calmer behavior instead. This protocol can feel harsh because it involves careful correction, but it tends to work much quicker for many dogs. If you go this route, I suggest hiring a trainer who is very experienced using both positive reinforcement and fair correction. Who is extremely knowledgeable about e-collar training, and can follow the protocol listed below, to help you implement the training. Building his independence and structure in his life will still be an important part of this protocol too. Check out this video from SolidK9Training on treating anxiety. It will give a brief over-view of treating separation anxiety with a more structured approach. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y5GqzeLzysk Make sure you are implementing what he teaches there in other areas of his life too. Second, purchase a remote electronic collar, e-collar, with a wide range of levels. I recommend purchasing E-Collar Technologies Mini Educator for this. If you are not comfortable with an e-collar then you can use a vibration collar (the Mini Educator is also a vibration mode) or unscented air remote controlled air spray collar. DO NOT use a citronella collar, buy the additional unscented air canister if the collar comes with the citronella and make sure that you use the unscented air. (Citronella collars are actually very harsh). The vibration or spray collars are less likely to work though, so you may end up spending more money by not purchasing an e-collar first. The Mini Educator has very low levels of stimulation, that can be tailored specifically to your dog. It also has vibration and beep tones that you can try using first, without having to buy additional tools. Next, set up a camera to spy on him. If you have two smart devices, like tablets or smartphones, you can Skype or Facetime them to one another with your pup’s end on mute, so that you can see and hear him but he will not hear you. Video baby monitors, video security monitors with portable ways to view the video, GoPros with the phone Live App, or any other camera that will record and transmit the video to something portable that you can watch outside live will work. Next, put the e-collar on him while he is outside of the crate, standing, and relaxed. To learn how to put the collar on him, check out this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DLxB6gYsliI Turn it to it's lowest level and push the stimulation button twice. See if he responds to the collar at all. Look for subtle signs such as turning his head, moving his ears, biting his fur, moving away from where he was, or changing his expression. If he does not respond at all, then go up one level on the collar and when he is standing and relaxed, push the stimulation button again twice. Look for a reaction again. Repeat going up one level at a time and then testing his reaction at that level until he indicates a little bit that he can feel the collar. Here is a video showing how to do this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1cl3V8vYobM Once you have found the right stimulation level for him and have it correctly fitted on him, have him wear the collar around with it turned off or not being stimulated for several hours. Next, set up your camera to spy on him while he is in the crate. Put him into the crate while he is wearing the collar and leave the room. Spy on him from outside. Leave however you normally would. As soon as you hear him barking or see him start to try to escape or destroy the crate from the camera, push the stimulation button once. Every time he barks or tries to get out of the crate, stimulate him again. If he does not decrease his barking or escape attempts at least a little bit after being stimulated seven times in a row, then increase the stimulation level by one level. He may not feel the stimulation while excited so might need it just slightly higher. Do not go higher than three more levels on the mini-educator or one level on another collar with less levels right now though because he has not learned what he is supposed to be doing yet. The level you end up using on him on the mini educator collar should be low to medium, within the first fifty levels of the one-hundred to one-hundred-and-twenty-five levels, depending on the model you purchase. If it is not, then have a professional evaluate whether you have the correct "working level" for him. If he continues to ignore the collar, then go up one more stimulation level and if that does not work, make sure that the collar is turned on, fitted correctly, and working. After five minutes to ten minutes, as soon as your dog stays quiet and is not trying to escape for five seconds straight, go back inside to the dog. Do not speak to him or pay attention to him for ten minutes while you walk around inside. When he is being calm, then you can let him out of the crate. When you let him out, do it the way Jeff does is in this video below. Opening and closing the door until your dog is not rushing out. You want him to be calm when he comes out of the crate and to stay calm when you get home. That is why you need to ignore him when you get home right away. Also, keep your good-byes extremely boring and calm. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y5GqzeLzysk Continue to put a food stuffed Kong into the crate with him. Once he is less anxious he will likely enjoy it and that will help him to enjoy the crate more. First, he needs her anxious state of mind interrupted so that he is open to learning other ways to behave. Once it's interrupted, give him a food stuffed Kong in the crate for him to relieve his boredom instead, since he will need something other than barking to do at that point. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Question
Cypher
Siberian Husky
7 Months
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Question
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Cypher
Siberian Husky
7 Months

My dog has severe separation anxiety. As soon as I walk out the door and step less than 25 ft away from the front door he begins to cry and whine/scream. He just started doing this recently due to my roommates dogs being away. I am moving to a new apartment and want to make sure that he knows that it’s okay to be alone and not to cry since I’ve had complaints from the neighbors. I have tried the no bark collard but it seems to not really work, I have also tried the thunder vest and it works but my dog will still cry at the beginning when I leave. I don’t know what to do besides getting him another furry friend so he won’t feel so lonely.

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
833 Dog owners recommended

Hello Evelyn, Which type of no-bark collar did you use? I don't recommend the air or citronella ones - I find that they are either ineffective or confusing because the smell lingers. If you used a stimulation collar, the collar is just one part of an independence and confidence building protocol. It may be worth using it again, but make sure the one you are using has a manual setting so that you can determine what level is needed to interrupt the barking, and combine the collar with the following protocol and positive reinforcement. The first part is to work on building confidence and independence by doing the following: Have him work for rewards like meals, walks, and pets by telling him to do a command he knows before you give him those daily things right now. Work on "Stay" and "Place," commands while you move away or leave the room, and teach him to remain inside a crate when the door is open. Place: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=omg5DVPWIWo Crate manners: https://thegooddog.net/training-videos/free-how-to-training-videos/learn-to-train-the-good-dog-way-the-crate/ Make sure he is heeling during walks also: Heel article - The turns method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Change your routine surrounding leaving so that he does not anticipate alone time and build up his anxiety before you leave - which is hard for him to deescalate from, and be sure to give him something to do in the crate during the day (such as a food stuffed Kong to chew on); this is the general protocol for separation anxiety. It is gentle but can take a very long time for some dogs. Check out the video below for further details on structure and teaching calmness - the trainer can sound a bit harsh in his human teaching style - so forgive the bluntness in the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y5GqzeLzysk Next, set up a camera to spy on him. If you have two smart devices, like tablets or smartphones, you can Skype or Facetime them to one another with your pup’s end on mute, so that you can see and hear him but he will not hear you. Video baby monitors, video security monitors with portable ways to view the video, GoPros with the phone Live App, or any other camera that will record and transmit the video to something portable that you can watch outside live will work. Next, put the e-collar on him while he is outside of the crate, standing, and relaxed. To learn how to put the collar on him, check out this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DLxB6gYsliI Your collar should have several levels, with the lowest one being very gentle - if it starts too high or doesn't go high enough for your dog's sensitivity level, the quality of the collar may be the issue - you need to correct level for your specific dog for the dog to be responsive to the training and not to be so overwhelmed they can't learn or underwhelmed they don't care. Turn it to it's lowest level and push the stimulation button twice. See if he responds to the collar at all. Look for subtle signs such as turning his head, moving his ears, biting his fur, moving away from where he was, or changing his expression. If he does not respond at all, then go up one level on the collar and when he is standing and relaxed, push the stimulation button again twice. Look for a reaction again. Repeat going up one level at a time and then testing his reaction at that level until he indicates a little bit that he can feel the collar. Here is a video showing how to do this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1cl3V8vYobM Once you have found the right stimulation level for him and have it correctly fitted on him, have him wear the collar around with it turned off or not being stimulated for several hours. Next, set up your camera to spy on him while he is in the crate. Put him into the crate while he is wearing the collar and leave the room. Spy on him from outside. Leave however you normally would. As soon as you hear him barking or see him start to try to escape or destroy the crate from the camera, push the stimulation button once. Every time he barks or tries to get out of the crate, stimulate him again. If he does not decrease his barking or escape attempts at least a little bit after being stimulated seven times in a row, then increase the stimulation level by one level. He may not feel the stimulation while excited so might need it just slightly higher. Do not go higher than three more levels on the mini-educator or one level on another collar with less levels right now though because he has not learned what he is supposed to be doing yet. The level you end up using on him on the mini educator collar should be low to medium, within the first forty levels of the one-hundred to one-hundred-and-twenty-five levels, depending on the model you purchase. If it is not, then have a professional evaluate whether you have the correct "working level" for her. If he continues to ignore the collar, then go up one more stimulation level and if that does not work, make sure that the collar is turned on, fitted correctly, and working. After five minutes to ten minutes, as soon as your dog stays quiet and is not trying to escape for five seconds straight, go back inside to the dog. Do not speak to him or pay attention to him for ten minutes while you walk around inside. When he is being calm, then you can let him out of the crate. When you let him out, do it the way Jeff does is in this video below. Opening and closing the door until your dog is not rushing out. You want him to be calm when he comes out of the crate and to stay calm when you get home. That is why you need to ignore him when you get home right away. Also, keep your good byes extremely boring and calm. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y5GqzeLzysk Continue to put a food stuffed Kong into the crate with him. Once he is less anxious he will likely enjoy it and that will help him to enjoy the crate more. First, he needs her anxious state of mind interrupted so that he is open to learning other ways to behave. Once it's interrupted, give him a food stuffed Kong in the crate for him to relieve his boredom instead, since he will need something other than barking to do at that point. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Atlas
Siberian Husky
10 Months
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Atlas
Siberian Husky
10 Months

We tried crate training Atlas when he was young and we messed up by giving him too large of a crate. He now is house trained but exclusively pees in his crate when he is put in his crate. He pees out the crate, so that he doesn’t have to sit with it inside. He could have NO pee left in him, and he will still find a way to pee outside of the crate. He is not destructive when he is alone, he does not chew on things nor does he get into things he isn’t supposed to, but lately he’s been pooping every time I’ve left him for more than 2 hours. Even if I’ve taken him outside beforehand. It’s almost like he’s upset, so he poops and pees out of anger or anxiety? I’m unsure. How can I train him better so that he stops peeing in the crate, or pooping when I’m gone? He never does it when I am home and he is with me.

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
833 Dog owners recommended

Hello Skylar, First, I suggest covering your bases and adding in more structure to his life to help with any potential anxiety just in case the accidents are effected by that. It may seem counter-intuitive but practice the below exercises with him, and have him work for the things he want for a while doing commands for you first, such as Sit before petting him, Wait before eating, Down before letting him outside, Heel to move forward on walks, and Watch Me before throwing him a ball - you can change the details of what commands when; the goal is just for him to work more. Place: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=omg5DVPWIWo Crate manners: https://thegooddog.net/training-videos/free-how-to-training-videos/learn-to-train-the-good-dog-way-the-crate/ Thresholds: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-w28C2g68M Heel article - The turns method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Heel Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTiKVc4ZZWo Second, you will have to experiment with what works for the potty training. Spy on him with a camera when you leave and he is in the crate; does he seem anxious while in there before peeing? If the issue is anxiety, you can correct that state of mind and teach a calmer one instead, which should also help the peeing. This needs to be done in addition to the structure I linked videos and articles for above. I will go over how to address the separation anxiety below if that seems to be the case. Third, you can try getting him used to wearing a doggie diaper or male belly band - which is a dog diaper that goes just over his privates to catch urine. Some dogs will try to avoid eliminating in the diaper at first - until they have been forced to pee in it a few times and loose the aversion to peeing in it. You could try making him wear a belly band in the crate - once you get him used to wearing it while you are home and he learns not to mess with it. You could also try having him wear the diaper while loose in the house once he is used to wearing it. If he poops in the diaper it will make a big mess but he may find it unpleasant enough that he tries not to in the future. You will have to experiment to see honestly. Not all dogs react to diapers or belly bands the same way. Fourth, for the pooping in the house, make sure that you are taking him outside to go potty - on a leash so he can't get distracted, 15-45 minutes after you feed him. Many dogs need to poop 15-45 minutes after eating even if they just peed before being fed. Fifth, you can try setting up a camera with an audio feature that can be muted and un-muted. Spy on him with the camera, and as soon as you see him circling around or sniffing to find a spot to go potty, tell him "Ah Ah" and surprise him a little over the audio, then come back inside (he should have thought you were gone for the day prior to returning), and take him outside to go potty. Whenever he pees or poops outside, give him three treats, one at a time. The goal here is not to scare him a lot or punish him a ton by doing something like rubbing him nose in it, but to interrupt him through surprise - when you are home clapping often accomplishes the same thing for other dogs. It's important to reward for pottying outside right now so that he doesn't become afraid of pottying in front of you, wants to hold it so that he can go outside and get his treats, and experiences pottying outside as rewarding and pottying inside as unpleasant - so he will differentiate the two. Sixth, try switching the type of crate you are using. If you are using a normal wire crate, try something more enclosed like a plastic vari-kennel. You can block off the bottom half of the wire door with something if he tries to pee out that. You can also drill additional holes into the top of the crate if you feel like more ventilation is needed due to blocking the door off partially - just depending on how much ventilation the crate already has. Seventh, clean up any accidents in your home or the crate with a pet safe cleaner that contains enzymes. Only enzymes will remove the smell completely for him, and remaining smell encourages a dog to go potty in the same area again in the future. If all else fails, set up a small room, like a closet or laundry room with hard floors for him to stay in. Remove everything absorbent from the room, and teach him to use a large disposable grass-pad while in there. Confine him in that room whenever you leave him. Address any destructiveness in that room the way you would separation anxiety below using a camera to spy on him. Be sure to give him interesting, safe chew toys in there to prevent destructiveness from boredom from starting. Check out Fresh Patch, DoggieLawn, and PorchPotty to find disposable real grass pads. Finally, here is the separation anxiety protocol: Change your routine surrounding leaving so that he does not anticipate alone time and build up his anxiety before you leave - which is hard for him to deescalate from, and be sure to give him something to do in the crate during the day (such as a food stuffed Kong to chew on); this is the general protocol for separation anxiety. It is gentle but can take a very long time for some dogs. An additional protocol involves teaching the dog to cope with their own anxiety by making their current anxious go-to behaviors unpleasant, giving them an opportunity to stop those behaviors long enough to learn something new, then rewarding the correct, calmer behavior instead. This protocol can feel harsh because it involves careful correction, but it tends to work much quicker for many dogs. If you go this route, I suggest hiring a trainer who is very experienced using both positive reinforcement and fair correction. Who is extremely knowledgeable about e-collar training, and can follow the protocol listed below, to help you implement the training. Building his independence and structure in his life will still be an important part of this protocol too. First, check out this video from SolidK9Training on treating anxiety. It will give a brief over-view of treating separation anxiety more firmly. This trainer can be a bit abrupt with his teaching style with people but is very experienced working with highly aggressive, anxious, and reactive dogs. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y5GqzeLzysk Make sure you are implementing what he teaches there in other areas of his life too. Second, purchase a remote electronic collar, e-collar, with a wide range of levels. I recommend purchasing E-Collar Technologies Mini Educator for this. If you are not comfortable with an e-collar then you can use a vibration collar (the Mini Educator is also a vibration mode) or unscented air remote controlled air spray collar. DO NOT use a citronella collar, buy the additional unscented air canister if the collar comes with the citronella and make sure that you use the unscented air. (Citronella collars are actually very harsh). The vibration or spray collars are less likely to work though, so you may end up spending more money by not purchasing an e-collar first. The Mini Educator has very low levels of stimulation, that can be tailored specifically to your dog. It also has vibration and beep tones that you can try using first, without having to buy additional tools. Next, set up a camera to spy on him. If you have two smart devices, like tablets or smartphones, you can Skype or Facetime them to one another with your pup’s end on mute, so that you can see and hear him but he will not hear you. Video baby monitors, video security monitors with portable ways to view the video, GoPros with the phone Live App, or any other camera that will record and transmit the video to something portable that you can watch outside live will work. Next, put the e-collar on him while he is outside of the crate, standing, and relaxed. To learn how to put the collar on him, check out this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DLxB6gYsliI Turn it to it's lowest level and push the stimulation button twice. See if he responds to the collar at all. Look for subtle signs such as turning his head, moving his ears, biting his fur, moving away from where he was, or changing his expression. If he does not respond at all, then go up one level on the collar and when he is standing and relaxed, push the stimulation button again twice. Look for a reaction again. Repeat going up one level at a time and then testing his reaction at that level until he indicates a little bit that he can feel the collar. Here is a video showing how to do this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1cl3V8vYobM Once you have found the right stimulation level for him and have it correctly fitted on him, have him wear the collar around with it turned off or not being stimulated for several hours. Next, set up your camera to spy on him while he is in the crate. Put him into the crate while he is wearing the collar and leave the room. Spy on him from outside. Leave however you normally would. As soon as you hear him barking or see him start to try to escape or destroy the crate from the camera, push the stimulation button once. Every time he barks or tries to get out of the crate, stimulate him again. If he does not decrease his barking or escape attempts at least a little bit after being stimulated seven times in a row, then increase the stimulation level by one level. He may not feel the stimulation while excited so might need it just slightly higher. Do not go higher than three more levels on the mini-educator or one level on another collar with less levels right now though because he has not learned what he is supposed to be doing yet. The level you end up using on him on the mini educator collar should be low to medium, within the first forty levels of the one-hundred to one-hundred-and-twenty-five levels, depending on the model you purchase. If it is not, then have a professional evaluate whether you have the correct "working level" for her. If he continues to ignore the collar, then go up one more stimulation level and if that does not work, make sure that the collar is turned on, fitted correctly, and working. After five minutes to ten minutes, as soon as your dog stays quiet and is not trying to escape for five seconds straight, go back inside to the dog. Do not speak to him or pay attention to him for ten minutes while you walk around inside. When he is being calm, then you can let him out of the crate. When you let him out, do it the way Jeff does is in this video below. Opening and closing the door until your dog is not rushing out. You want him to be calm when he comes out of the crate and to stay calm when you get home. That is why you need to ignore him when you get home right away. Also, keep your good byes extremely boring and calm. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y5GqzeLzysk Continue to put a food stuffed Kong into the crate with him. Once he is less anxious he will likely enjoy it and that will help him to enjoy the crate more. First, he needs her anxious state of mind interrupted so that he is open to learning other ways to behave. Once it's interrupted, give him a food stuffed Kong in the crate for him to relieve his boredom instead, since he will need something other than barking to do at that point. Only use this protocol if you have determined that anxiety is his issue. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Balto
Siberian Husky
6 Years
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Balto
Siberian Husky
6 Years

We adopted Balto 2 weeks ago from the shelter. He is pretty much house trained and seems to be doing fine in the house with people in the house. A few days ago, we had to leave him alone in the house for a few hours, and when we came back home, we found that he chewed on the base molding, door lock/ handle to the garage, and the small plant from the bathroom . We gave him toys that we can stuffed food inside but he finished it before we leave the house. Any suggestion on what we should do? Because we cannot always have someone at the house 24/7... He was a very very good boy when someone is in the house, he will just be sleeping, chilling, and playing so we thought he will be fine to be alone in the house for awhile. The last owner that had him said that he left him at house for 8 hours and he was fine... So please help, we don't know what to do!!

Darlene Stott
Darlene Stott
Dog Trainer and Groomer
104 Dog owners recommended

Thank you for the question. I'll answer this based on a similar problem I had. My dog (who has Husky/Rottweiler/Aussie lineage) used to destroy things whenever we left the home. We decided to crate him when we were not home because we knew that he must be feeling anxious when we weren't there. When putting him in his crate, I would give him a Kong toy that I had added a few treats to. I added a few dog biscuits broken up or sometimes I would put a bit of dog safe peanut butter (no xylitol - it's toxic!) inside and then freeze the Kong. He soon got used the routine and would excitedly run to the crate when he saw the Kong. When we returned home, he would be quietly waiting in the crate for us. Eventually, we began letting him stay in the house for 2 minutes alone, then 5, then 10 and so on. Now he no longer goes in the crate when we go out. However, some dogs will always need the security of the crate to feel safe when in the house alone. You've only had handsome Balto 2 weeks, so your house is still all new to him. Here are a few tips: https://wagwalking.com/training/crate-train-a-husky-puppy and https://wagwalking.com/training/like-a-crate. Good luck!

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Jasper
Siberian Husky
4 Months
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Jasper
Siberian Husky
4 Months

So everyone in our household works an most times we are all gone at the same time an don’t get home til around 6:30pm. While we are gone Jasper has begun chewing the cushions on our couch we don’t want to get on to him when we get home cause we are afraid he will not know what he is being disciplined for. We want to put him in a crate while we are all gone to work for the day just not sure if it is a good idea to have him be in a crate for such long periods of time or if that is ok especially if he has to potty. As you can see we don’t know anything about creating a dog, can you PLEASE help?!?
We have a crate an he has been put in it for SHORT periods. We are in desperate need of help, Jasper only does the chewing on the couch and other things when we are NOT home an does show some signs of separation anxiety. Can you please help?

Darlene Stott
Darlene Stott
Dog Trainer and Groomer
104 Dog owners recommended

Jasper is a handsome little guy. Thank you for the question. Is Jasper holding his pee already now all day while you are gone, or is he using pee pads? If he holds it all day, then he will be fine in a crate. Make sure that he is taken out the last minute before anyone leaves and then again as soon as someone gets home. All day is a long time for a puppy to not have a bathroom break. The crate is probably the safest place to prevent Jasper from eating too much of the couch and potentially getting a dangerous blockage in the intestine. Here are crating tips: https://wagwalking.com/training/like-a-crate and https://wagwalking.com/training/crate-train-a-beagle-puppy. Importantly, are you providing mental stimulation for Jasper while he is alone all day? Huskies are very active dogs that need physical and mental stimulation daily. Make sure he gets a good long walk before everyone heads off to work in the morning. Buy him interactive puzzles to play with during the day such as a toy that dispenses treats. Or, take a Kong and fill it with softened kibble and peanut butter (make sure it does not have xylitol as it is toxic!!), then freeze it and give it to Jasper before you leave. It will take him considerable time to clean and enjoy the Kong. Another option to crating is to set up an exercise pen area where he is confined and has room to stretch, along with pee pads in case he needs the bathroom. Good luck!

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Luna
Siberian Husky
12 Weeks
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Luna
Siberian Husky
12 Weeks

I need her to be able to be alone, because my parents work from 8-4 and I’m at school from 8-3 except Saturdays and Sundays. The main challenge in training her is that we are in an apartment and there are neighbors so we don’t want her to make so much noise. We also are living in a rental place and don’t want her to chew the walls and everything. Every time I leave her alone she cries and barks and chews the walls. Same if she is in a crate as well

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
833 Dog owners recommended

Hello Arad, First, work on teaching the Quiet command during the day using the Quiet method from the article linked below. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bark Second, during the day practice the Surprise method from the article linked below. Whenever pup stays quiet in the crate for 5 minutes, sprinkle some treats into the crate without opening it, then leave the room again. As she improves, only give the treats every 10 minutes, then 15 minutes, 20 minutes, 30 minutes, 45 minutes, 1 hour, 1.5 hour, 2, hour, 3 hour. Practice crating her during the day for 1-3 hours each day that you can. Whenever she cries in the crate, tell him "Quiet". If she gets quiet - Great! Sprinkle treats in after five minutes if she stays quiet. If she continues barking or stops and starts again, spray a quick puff of air from a pet convincer at her side through the crate while calmly saying "Ah Ah", then leave again. Only use unscented air canisters, DON'T use citronella! And avoid spraying in the face. surprise method: https://wagwalking.com/training/like-a-crate Repeat the rewards when quiet and the corrections whenever she cries. When you are going to be gone for longer, you can give pup a dog food stuffed Kong in the crate too, to keep her entertained. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Jax
Husky
3 Months
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Jax
Husky
3 Months

Everywhere I go my dog goes, which would be fine except I have a 7 month old that needs me constantly as well. When I take Jax to go potty outside -which he does very well- I have realized that I can’t leave him out there on his own. If he hears me go inside he wants to follow. The only time he enjoys being outside is if my husband or I are out there with him. How do I get him to be okay with being outside by himself?

Darlene Stott
Darlene Stott
Dog Trainer and Groomer
104 Dog owners recommended

Super adorable! Jax is pretty young so I can understand that he is not comfortable outside on his own. However, he may be okay with it if your provide some creature comforts. Give him an interactive feeder that is challenging to use, or a puzzle toy that gives a treat as a reward. You can also take out a Kong filled with softened kibble. Freeze the Kong the night before so that it takes a while for Jax to work at it and completely empty it. Provide toys, fresh water, and a shady place to lay (maybe even a dog bed you can bring in and out). He may not go for the idea due to his age but you can keep working at it. In the evenings and on the weekend, spend time playing with Jax in the yard. As well, make sure that he gets lots and lots of walks in the neighborhood, too, so that the yard is not boring. Take him to puppy training as well for socialization and exercise. Good luck!

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Lodi
Husky-Terrier mix
2 Years
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Lodi
Husky-Terrier mix
2 Years

Hi, My wife and I are currently working from Home due to the Pandemic and decided to adopt a great dog by the name of Lodi. He is a Husky Mix and is really just the greatest little guy and he's been a great addition to our home. We've had him since April and for the first couple of weeks as he was getting used to us, he was more or less fine sitting around the house while we worked. Now, a few month later, he has started Barking repeatedly starting around noon. He wants attention and seems quite bored with his humans working at their computers.

We have tried several things to try and address the behavior. We were already walking him vigorously in the morning and several times in the evenings. When he started barking we would put him outside in a fenced in area (about 1/3 of an acre in size, so he has room to Run). However this wasn't effective as he would just sit by the door and whine or scratch the door. I've also tried other methods like food dispensing toys, chewing items like pig ears, and frozen kongs. These tend to work for about 15-30 minutes and then it's back to barking incessantly. I've taken to sitting outside on my laptop with him, which seems to calm him down but that is not always practical.

He is Crate trained and spends the entire evening in his Crate, but we've found he whines and barks when placed in it during the day. He knows we're home as he can hear us working from his Crate.

While I'm hoping for is advice for two scenarios: 1) what can I do to manage the barking behavior while we're working from home and 2) How can I transition him to when we're NOT working from how - which could come later this year.

Any help would be desperately appreciated!

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
833 Dog owners recommended

Hello Eric, First, continue with exercise and feeding meals as stuffed chew toys, puzzle toys, ect...To help with entertainment. I find that the Kong wobble toys and similar device are quick ways to feed meals when you don't have time to stuff a chew toy. The exercise and games are part of the solution to help with tiredness and boredom, just not the entire solution by themselves, since this is also a behavior issue. When you do exercise him, instead of focusing on huge amounts of exercise, implement training that's a bit challenging into the exercise to stimulate him mentally too - that can be twice as effective as exercise alone for tiring pup out and helping pup feel calmer afterwards. For example, have pup practice a structured, focused heel during walks, practicing their sit and Down commands periodically throughout the walk. Have a fast paced training session instead of one of exercise times, with come, heel, doggie push-ups (fast repetitions of sit, down, stand commands in random order) and other commands that involve movement thrown in. Incorporate Sit, Down, Wait, Watch Me, and Stay type commands into a game of fetch. For the barking, I suggest combining a few things in your case. You need a way to communicate with him so I suggest teaching the Quiet command from the Quiet method in the article I have linked below - don't expect this alone to work but it will be part of the puzzle for what I will suggest next. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bark Next, once pup understands what Quiet means you will choose an interrupter - neither too harsh nor ineffective. A Pet Convincer is one example of an interrupter. A pet convincer is a small canister of pressurized, unscented air that you can spray a quick puff of at the dog's side to surprise them enough to help them calm back down. (Don't use citronella and avoid spraying in the face!). In situations where you know pup will bark or is already barking, command "Quiet". If they obey, reward with a treat and very calm praise. If they bark anyway or continue to bark, say "Ah Ah" firmly but calmly and give a brief correction at their side. Repeat the correction each time they bark until you get a brief pause in the barking. When they pause, praise and reward then. The combination of communication, correction, and rewarding - with the "Ah Ah" and praise to mark their good and bad behavior with the right timing, is very important. Once pup understands the routine, wait until pup stays quiet for gradually longer and longer before rewarding them - so that they don't just bark and get quiet in hopes of a treat. At that point, reward pup just for staying quiet, like when you catch them nicely lying on their bed quietly while you work, chewing their own toy contentedly, ect...And just correct if they bark, without the treat reward right after when it's quiet. A Place command is also a great command to build pup's self-control. Place command: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O75dyWITP1s As far as leaving, intentionally go on walks without pup too just to practice pup being left alone during this season. If they aren't trustworthy left alone unsupervised, crate them while gone. I also suggest practicing crating pup in a room away from you for at least 2 hours a day with a dog food stuffed chew toy. Since pup is barking in the crate during the day, practice the Surprise method from the article linked below. Whenever pup stays quiet in the crate for 5 minutes, sprinkle some treats into the crate without opening it, then leave the room again. As he improves, only give the treats every 10 minutes, then 15 minutes, 20 minutes, 30 minutes, 45 minutes, 1 hour, 1.5 hour, 2, hour, 3 hour. Practice crating him during the day for 1-3 hours each day that you can. Whenever he cries in the crate, tell him "Quiet" (once you have taught it as described above). If he gets quiet - Great! Sprinkle treats in after five minutes if he stays quiet. If he continues barking or stops and starts again, spray a quick puff of air from a pet convincer at his side through the crate while calmly saying "Ah Ah", then leave again. Only use unscented air canisters, DON'T use citronella! And avoid spraying in the face. Surprise method: https://wagwalking.com/training/like-a-crate Repeat the rewards when quiet and the corrections whenever he cries. Gradually space out the rewards until pup is staying quiet the entire 2 hours with just the dog food stuffed chew toy to chew on - whether you are home or on your walk/errand/in the backyard without pup. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Aria
Husky
2 Years
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Aria
Husky
2 Years

After being alone for some time starts to tear up the trash and get into the food. Has adequate amount of food but still destroys other stuff as well.

Darlene Stott
Darlene Stott
Dog Trainer and Groomer
104 Dog owners recommended

Hello, Aria may be anxious being alone for extended amounts of time. It is not unusual. I will suggest two things: crating or exercise pen area, and interactive feeders. Firstly, with the crate - a dog will sometimes feel more comfortable in the home alone if they are in a safe confined space. To make an exercise pen area, see this helpful article: https://www.preventivevet.com/dogs/how-to-set-up-puppy-long-term-confinement-area (no need to set up a litter area). Aria may relax more in a "den" setting. As well, Huskies are extremely active and busy. Leave an interactive toy (a sturdy one made for Huskies) that will provide mental stimulation while you are gone. There are several great types on the market. When you know that you will be out for a while, give Aria only half of the normal breakfast serving. Then, the rest can be given in the feeder. Another option is the Kong. Fill it with moistened kibble and a little dog-safe peanut butter (no xylitol as it is toxic!). Freeze it, and then give it to Aria before you leave for a long lasting treat. Find a new place to keep the trash, or put it in the cupboard with a child-proof latch. You don't want Aria to get into something that is toxic or dangerous. Good luck!

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Creed
Siberian Husky
2 Years
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Creed
Siberian Husky
2 Years

Creed was in a six-month training program. I would come once weekly to work with him. He is crate trained but he has severe separation and won’t be in the crate without anyone being home. He has his puzzles, toys and his Kong but that will only get him so far. He’s opened up the crate before, bent it, ripped through it and tore up the floor. I’m just nervous he is going to hurt himself. I bought a new crate I keep trying it out, when he’s quiet I’ll give them a treat but it just seems like it never ends, he’ll pick and choose when to act out. He’s very vocal about not wanting to be in the crate alone. I’ve use the pet cameras but he’ll still go around the house and pees if I leave him outside the crate. He pees in the house rips up the blinds and has broken through the window. I don’t want to have to get a sitter every time I leave the house. What can I do to help him get through this, he just turned two in June.

Alisha Smith
Alisha S., Dog Trainer
225 Dog owners recommended

Hello! It sounds like you have your hands full. I am going to send you a lot of information regarding more advanced separation anxiety. You had the right intentions with the Kong and toys. Keep that up. And hopefully with the additional information I am sending, you will find one, or a combination of methods that work for Creed. The first step in treating separation anxiety is to break the cycle of anxiety. Every time a dog with separation anxiety becomes anxious when their owner leaves, the distress they feel is reinforced until they become absolutely frantic any time they are left alone. Owners should give the dog an acceptable item to chew, such as a long lasting food treat when they go out. The goal is to have the dog associate this special treat with the owner’s departure. Treats might include hollow bones stuffed with peanut butter or soft cheese, drilled out nylon bones, or hollow rubber chew toys such as Kong toys with similar enhancements (place these in the freezer before giving them to your dog to make them last longer). Give the bone to your dog about 15 minutes before preparing to depart. The chew toy should be used only as a reward to offset the anxiety triggered by your departure. Hiding a variety of these delectable food treats throughout the house may occupy the dog so that the owner’s departure is less stressful. In an effort to prevent destructive behavior, many owners confine their dog in a crate or behind a gate. For dogs that display “barrier frustration,” the use of a crate in this way is counterproductive. Many dogs will physically injure themselves while attempting to escape such confinement. Careful efforts to desensitize and counter condition the dog to crate confinement before leaving them alone may be helpful in some cases. However, some dogs rebel against any form of restraint, including restricting barriers and, for them, crate training may never be a positive experience. Crate training and utilizing the crate while people are home can be a positive way to make the crate a safe place. If you utilize it when people are around, your dog won’t necessarily associate the crate with departure and being left alone. Creating nap time in the crate throughout the day can also be helpful. Building Independence Independence training can help fight separation anxiety and loneliness. Independence training can help build confidence and instill obedience. Independence training is one of the more important aspects of the program. It involves teaching your dog to “stand on their own four feet” when you are present, with the express intention that their newfound confidence will spill over into times when you are away. You need to make your dog more independent by reducing the bond between both of you to a more healthy level of involvement. Decreasing the bond is the hardest thing for owners to accept. Most people acquire dogs because they want a strong relationship with them. However, you have to accept that the anxiety your dog experiences in your absence is destructive. Essential components of the independence training program are as follows: Your dog can be with you, but the amount of interaction time should be reduced, especially where attention-seeking behaviors are concerned. You should initiate all interactions with your dog, and they shouldn’t be permitted to demand attention. If you give your dog attention every time they whine, it helps to foster the dog’s dependence on you and increases its anxiety in your absence. You should ignore your dog completely when they engage in attention-seeking behavior, and avoid catering to them when they appear to feel anxious. This means no eye contact, no pushing away, and no soothing talk or body language, all of which will reward their attention-seeking mission. Attention is encouraged only when your dog is sitting or lying calmly. The goal is not to ignore your dog, but to stop reinforcing attention-seeking behaviors so that your dog develops a sense of independence. Minimize the extent to which your dog follows you by teaching them to remain relaxed in one spot, such as their bed. To accomplish this, it is helpful if you train them to perform a sit-stay or down-stay while gradually increasing the time that they hold the command and remain at a distance from you. Providing a treat or toy and encouraging individual play time can be helpful. Once your dog has learned basic obedience commands, you can train them to hold long down-stays while you move progressively farther away. First, your dog should be trained to perform a “down-stay” on a mat or dog bed using a specific command, such as “lie down.” Your dog may have to be gently escorted to the designated spot the first few times. Initially, they should be rewarded every 10 seconds for remaining there, then every 20 seconds, 30 seconds, and so on. Once they have figured out what is wanted, you should switch to an intermittent schedule of reinforcement [reward], as this will strengthen the learned response. Each time your dog breaks their “stay,” issue a verbal correction, indicating that there will be no reward, and then escort them back to their bed. First, your dog can be made to “down-stay” while you are in the room. Next, they can be asked to stay when you are outside of the room, but nearby. The distance and time you are away from your dog can be increased progressively until your dog can remain in a down-stay for 20 to 30 minutes in your absence. Your dog should be warmly praised for compliance. Of course, they need to accept the praise without breaking the stay. Your dog should become accustomed to being separated from you when you are home for varying lengths of time and at different times of day. You can set up child gates to deny your dog access into the room you’re occupying (i.e. reading, watching television, or cooking). Instruct your dog to lie down and stay on a dog bed outside the room. As previously mentioned, you can provide an extended-release food treat or toy to keep your dog calm and distracted. Once they are able to tolerate being separated from you by a child gate, you can graduate to shutting the door to the room so your dog cannot see you. Allowing a dog to sleep in bed with the family can increase dependence. If you decide to prevent your dog from sleeping in your bed, there are some steps to take to establish this routine. First, you need to train your dog to sleep in their own bed on the floor in your bedroom. They may have to be taken to their bed several times before they get the message that you really want them to sleep in their own bed. Alternatively, you can train your dog to enjoy sleeping in a crate to prevent unwanted excursions. Do not use a crate if it causes more anxiety and distress for your dog. Once they tolerate sleeping in their own bed in your bedroom, you can move their bed outside of the bedroom and use a child gate or barrier to keep them out. Always remember to reward your dog with praise or a food treat for remaining in their bed. Develop Departure Techniques Many owners erroneously feel that if separation is so stressful, then they should spend more time with their dog before leaving. Unfortunately, this only exacerbates the condition. Everyone in the family should ignore your dog for 15 to 20 minutes before leaving the house and for at least 10 to 20 minutes after returning home. Alternatively, your leaving can be made a highlight of your dog’s day by making it a “happy time” and the time at which they are fed. Departures should be quick and quiet. When departures (and returns) generate less anxiety (and excitement), your dog will begin to feel less tension in your absence. Remember to reward calm behavior. Teach your dog that your departure and return are just normal parts of the day and are not times to be stressed. You should attempt to randomize the cues indicating that you are preparing to leave. Changing the cues may take some trial and error. Some cues mean nothing to a dog, while others trigger anxiety. Make a list of the things you normally do before leaving for the day (and anxiety occurs) and the things done before a short time out (and no anxiety occurs).Then mix up the cues. For example, if your dog is fine when you go downstairs to do the laundry, you can try taking the laundry basket with you when you leave for work. If your dog becomes anxious when you pick up your keys or put on a coat, you should practice these things when you are not really leaving. You can, for example, stand up, put on a coat or pick up your car keys during television commercials, and then sit down again. You can also open and shut doors while you are home when you do not intend to leave. Entering and exiting through various doors when leaving and returning can also mix up cues for your dog. When you are actually leaving, you should try not to give any cues to this effect. Leave your coat in the car and put your keys in the ignition well before leaving. It is important to randomize all the cues indicating departure (clothing, physical and vocal signals, interactions with family members, other pets, and so on). The planned departure technique can be very effective for some dogs. This program is recommended only under special circumstances because it requires that you never leave your dog alone during the entire retraining period, which can be weeks or months. Timing is everything when implementing this program. If your dog shows signs of anxiety (pacing, panting, barking excessively) the instant you walk out of the door, you should stand outside the door and wait until your dog is quiet for three seconds. Then go back inside quickly and reward your dog for being calm. If you return WHEN your dog is anxious, this reinforces your dog’s tendency to display the behavior, because it has the desired effect of reuniting the “pack” members. The goal is for your dog to connect being calm and relaxed with your return. Gradually work up to slightly longer departures 5 to 10 minutes as long as your dog remains quiet, and continue in this fashion. Eventually, you should be able to leave for the day without your dog becoming anxious when you depart. When performed correctly, this program can be very helpful in resolving separation anxiety. Other Treatment Options Obedience Training Obedience training helps to instill confidence and independence in your dog. You should spend 5 to 10 minutes daily training your dog to obey one-word commands. It may be helpful to have training sessions occur in the room where your dog will be left when you are gone. All positive experiences (food, toys, sleep, training, and attention) should be associated with this area of the home. Exercise Your dog should receive 15 to 20 minutes of sustained aerobic exercise once, preferably twice, per day. It is often helpful to exercise your dog before you leave for the day. Exercise helps to dissipate anxiety and provides constructive interaction between you and your dog. It is best to allow your dog 15 to 20 minutes to calm down before you depart. Fetching a ball is good exercise, as is going for a brisk walk or run with your dog on a leash. Even if your dog has a large yard to run in all day, the aerobic exercise will be beneficial since most dogs will not tire themselves if left to their own devices. This is incredibly helpful in dogs that are working breeds that need a job to expend energy and work their brains.

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Koda
Siberian Husky
9 Months
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Koda
Siberian Husky
9 Months

I tried the 'in and out' method but he doesn't settle for more than one minute - goes right to the door and howls/paws at the door. i don't know whether to wait a few minutes to see if he settles or if that will make things worse or to try another method i always give him his kong but hes not interested when we leave & he is not crated.

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
833 Dog owners recommended

Hello Sarah, How does pup do when left alone while in the crate? If they don't do okay then, I suggest starting with crating pup and getting them used to being left alone in there first. If pup does fine when crated and you are just trying to get them used to being out of the crate alone, I suggest working on the Place command and the crate exercise below, to get pup used to staying somewhere calmly due to obedience and not just the door being closed, while you work up to being able to go into another room back and forth. Place command: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O75dyWITP1s Crate manners: https://thegooddog.net/training-videos/free-how-to-training-videos/learn-to-train-the-good-dog-way-the-crate/ Work pup up to you being able to leave the room and them stay put. When they can do that, then work up to you leaving out the front door and coming back again. When pup can handle that and has developed some self-control through practicing those things, if they are still scratching and barking, I suggest setting up a camera to spy on pup from outside, like a tablet or phone with skype on mute or video baby monitor. Go outside. Whenever pup stays quiet and doesn't scratch the door for at least five minutes, return and sprinkle a few treats onto their place bed or into an open crate (but not right in front of the door because you want pup to start to stay on their bed or crate on their own when you are away), then leave again and repeat. When pup barks or scratches, briefly open the door, tell pup "Ah Ah" and spray a brief puff of air at their side (NOT face) with an unscented air pet convincer, then leave again. Don't use citronella canisters - they are too harsh, only the unscented air. Repeat the rewards when quiet and calm and the corrections for barking or scratching. As pup improves, gradually space out rewards and reward less often. Be sure to leave pup a dog food stuffed chew toy to work on as well, and/or purchase something like Autotrainer or Pet Tutor, and get a model that you can program to detect when pup is quiet and release a treat to keep pup entertained and rewarded for being calm. Also, be aware that many dogs are still in a late chewing phase until past a year, so monitor whether pup starts chewing anything while you are not there. If they do, they will need to be crated until past a year, then you can test whether they are ready again later. Eighteen months is when I find the average dog is ready for less crate time. Some are ready at 1 year though, and a few mature early and can handle it a bit sooner, like 9 months. You don't want to give too much before pup is developmentally ready though because if chewing happens regularly while you are away it can become a long-term habit and not just something pup will outgrow. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Maya
Siberian Husky
1 Year
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Maya
Siberian Husky
1 Year

Maya is house trained, she does'nt cry for the first 20 min when I leave she is actually quiet and I leave her a couple of puzzles with treats which keeps her occupied. but when I get back from work I hear her from outside crying and screaming and once I get inside there is always something she broke or has it in pieces, she actually figured out how to open a locked door, and its really hard to leave her screaming since my neighbors do not like constant screaming or crying. please help me and she loves sleeping in her crate just when i leave her in the crate the crying gets worse.

Alisha Smith
Alisha S., Dog Trainer
225 Dog owners recommended

Hi there. It sounds like she may have some separation anxiety going on. Because this behavior issue is complex, I have a lot of information to send you. With some time and practice, this is something that can be turned around over the next month or so. The first step in treating separation anxiety is to break the cycle of anxiety. Every time a dog with separation anxiety becomes anxious when their owner leaves, the distress they feel is reinforced until they become absolutely frantic any time they are left alone. Owners should give the dog an acceptable item to chew, such as a long lasting food treat when they go out. The goal is to have the dog associate this special treat with the owner’s departure. Treats might include hollow bones stuffed with peanut butter or soft cheese, drilled out nylon bones, or hollow rubber chew toys such as Kong toys with similar enhancements (place these in the freezer before giving them to your dog to make them last longer). Give the bone to your dog about 15 minutes before preparing to depart. The chew toy should be used only as a reward to offset the anxiety triggered by your departure. Hiding a variety of these delectable food treats throughout the house may occupy the dog so that the owner’s departure is less stressful. In an effort to prevent destructive behavior, many owners confine their dog in a crate or behind a gate. For dogs that display “barrier frustration,” the use of a crate in this way is counterproductive. Many dogs will physically injure themselves while attempting to escape such confinement. Careful efforts to desensitize and counter condition the dog to crate confinement before leaving them alone may be helpful in some cases. However, some dogs rebel against any form of restraint, including restricting barriers and, for them, crate training may never be a positive experience. Crate training and utilizing the crate while people are home can be a positive way to make the crate a safe place. If you utilize it when people are around, your dog won’t necessarily associate the crate with departure and being left alone. Creating nap time in the crate throughout the day can also be helpful. Building Independence Independence training can help fight separation anxiety and loneliness. Independence training can help build confidence and instill obedience. “Doggie Daycare” or hiring a pet sitter may be a better alternative for dogs that are initially resistant to treatment. It can be expensive, but prices vary. Independence training is one of the more important aspects of the program. It involves teaching your dog to “stand on their own four feet” when you are present, with the express intention that their newfound confidence will spill over into times when you are away. You need to make your dog more independent by reducing the bond between both of you to a more healthy level of involvement. Decreasing the bond is the hardest thing for owners to accept. Most people acquire dogs because they want a strong relationship with them. However, you have to accept that the anxiety your dog experiences in your absence is destructive. Essential components of the independence training program are as follows: Your dog can be with you, but the amount of interaction time should be reduced, especially where attention-seeking behaviors are concerned. You should initiate all interactions with your dog, and they shouldn’t be permitted to demand attention. If you give your dog attention every time they whine, it helps to foster the dog’s dependence on you and increases its anxiety in your absence. You should ignore your dog completely when they engage in attention-seeking behavior, and avoid catering to them when they appear to feel anxious. This means no eye contact, no pushing away, and no soothing talk or body language, all of which will reward their attention-seeking mission. Attention is encouraged only when your dog is sitting or lying calmly. The goal is not to ignore your dog, but to stop reinforcing attention-seeking behaviors so that your dog develops a sense of independence. Minimize the extent to which your dog follows you by teaching them to remain relaxed in one spot, such as their bed. To accomplish this, it is helpful if you train them to perform a sit-stay or down-stay while gradually increasing the time that they hold the command and remain at a distance from you. Providing a treat or toy and encouraging individual play time can be helpful. Once your dog has learned basic obedience commands, you can train them to hold long down-stays while you move progressively farther away. First, your dog should be trained to perform a “down-stay” on a mat or dog bed using a specific command, such as “lie down.” Your dog may have to be gently escorted to the designated spot the first few times. Initially, they should be rewarded every 10 seconds for remaining there, then every 20 seconds, 30 seconds, and so on. Once they have figured out what is wanted, you should switch to an intermittent schedule of reinforcement [reward], as this will strengthen the learned response. Each time your dog breaks their “stay,” issue a verbal correction, indicating that there will be no reward, and then escort them back to their bed. First, your dog can be made to “down-stay” while you are in the room. Next, they can be asked to stay when you are outside of the room, but nearby. The distance and time you are away from your dog can be increased progressively until your dog can remain in a down-stay for 20 to 30 minutes in your absence. Your dog should be warmly praised for compliance. Of course, they need to accept the praise without breaking the stay. Your dog should become accustomed to being separated from you when you are home for varying lengths of time and at different times of day. You can set up child gates to deny your dog access into the room you’re occupying (i.e. reading, watching television, or cooking). Instruct your dog to lie down and stay on a dog bed outside the room. As previously mentioned, you can provide an extended-release food treat or toy to keep your dog calm and distracted. Once they are able to tolerate being separated from you by a child gate, you can graduate to shutting the door to the room so your dog cannot see you. Allowing a dog to sleep in bed with the family can increase dependence. If you decide to prevent your dog from sleeping in your bed, there are some steps to take to establish this routine. First, you need to train your dog to sleep in their own bed on the floor in your bedroom. They may have to be taken to their bed several times before they get the message that you really want them to sleep in their own bed. Alternatively, you can train your dog to enjoy sleeping in a crate to prevent unwanted excursions. Do not use a crate if it causes more anxiety and distress for your dog. Once they tolerate sleeping in their own bed in your bedroom, you can move their bed outside of the bedroom and use a child gate or barrier to keep them out. Always remember to reward your dog with praise or a food treat for remaining in their bed. Develop Departure Techniques Many owners erroneously feel that if separation is so stressful, then they should spend more time with their dog before leaving. Unfortunately, this only exacerbates the condition. Everyone in the family should ignore your dog for 15 to 20 minutes before leaving the house and for at least 10 to 20 minutes after returning home. Alternatively, your leaving can be made a highlight of your dog’s day by making it a “happy time” and the time at which they are fed. Departures should be quick and quiet. When departures (and returns) generate less anxiety (and excitement), your dog will begin to feel less tension in your absence. Remember to reward calm behavior. Teach your dog that your departure and return are just normal parts of the day and are not times to be stressed. You should attempt to randomize the cues indicating that you are preparing to leave. Changing the cues may take some trial and error. Some cues mean nothing to a dog, while others trigger anxiety. Make a list of the things you normally do before leaving for the day (and anxiety occurs) and the things done before a short time out (and no anxiety occurs).Then mix up the cues. For example, if your dog is fine when you go downstairs to do the laundry, you can try taking the laundry basket with you when you leave for work. If your dog becomes anxious when you pick up your keys or put on a coat, you should practice these things when you are not really leaving. You can, for example, stand up, put on a coat or pick up your car keys during television commercials, and then sit down again. You can also open and shut doors while you are home when you do not intend to leave. Entering and exiting through various doors when leaving and returning can also mix up cues for your dog. When you are actually leaving, you should try not to give any cues to this effect. Leave your coat in the car and put your keys in the ignition well before leaving. It is important to randomize all the cues indicating departure (clothing, physical and vocal signals, interactions with family members, other pets, and so on). The planned departure technique can be very effective for some dogs. This program is recommended only under special circumstances because it requires that you never leave your dog alone during the entire retraining period, which can be weeks or months. Timing is everything when implementing this program. If your dog shows signs of anxiety (pacing, panting, barking excessively) the instant you walk out of the door, you should stand outside the door and wait until your dog is quiet for three seconds. Then go back inside quickly and reward your dog for being calm. If you return WHEN your dog is anxious, this reinforces your dog’s tendency to display the behavior, because it has the desired effect of reuniting the “pack” members. The goal is for your dog to connect being calm and relaxed with your return. Gradually work up to slightly longer departures 5 to 10 minutes as long as your dog remains quiet, and continue in this fashion. Eventually, you should be able to leave for the day without your dog becoming anxious when you depart. When performed correctly, this program can be very helpful in resolving separation anxiety. Other Treatment Options Obedience Training Obedience training helps to instill confidence and independence in your dog. You should spend 5 to 10 minutes daily training your dog to obey one-word commands. It may be helpful to have training sessions occur in the room where your dog will be left when you are gone. All positive experiences (food, toys, sleep, training, and attention) should be associated with this area of the home. Exercise Your dog should receive 15 to 20 minutes of sustained aerobic exercise once, preferably twice, per day. It is often helpful to exercise your dog before you leave for the day. Exercise helps to dissipate anxiety and provides constructive interaction between you and your dog. It is best to allow your dog 15 to 20 minutes to calm down before you depart. Fetching a ball is good exercise, as is going for a brisk walk or run with your dog on a leash. Even if your dog has a large yard to run in all day, the aerobic exercise will be beneficial since most dogs will not tire themselves if left to their own devices. This is incredibly helpful in dogs that are working breeds that need a job to expend energy and work their brains. Supplements Recently, supplements have been released to the public that can help dogs with anxiety. Purina created a probiotic that has been shown to reduce anxiety and provide a calming effect on some dogs. Your veterinarian may recommend this product for treating anxiety, or other products that contain L-Theanine or L-tryptophan.

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Dame
Siberian Husky
3 Years
0 found helpful
Question
0 found helpful
Dame
Siberian Husky
3 Years

Having troubles with him staying home alone, ive tried letting him loose around the house and I’ve also tried kennel training and nothings working, he howls does
Loud the whole time and neighbors are complaining help!!

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
833 Dog owners recommended

Hello Ashlyn, There are a couple of routes you can take with the separation anxiety. The first step is to work on building his independence and his confidence by adding a lot of structure and predictability into his routine. Things such as making him work for rewards like meals, walks, and pets. Working on "Stay" and "Place," commands while you move away or leave the room, and teaching him to remain inside a crate when the door is open. Change your routine surrounding leaving so that he does not anticipate alone time and build up his anxiety before you leave - which is hard for him to deescalate from, and be sure to continue to give him something to do in the crate during the day (such as a dog food stuffed Kong to chew on); this is the general protocol for separation anxiety. It is gentle but can take a very long time on its own for some dogs. Place: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=omg5DVPWIWo Crate manners: https://thegooddog.net/training-videos/free-how-to-training-videos/learn-to-train-the-good-dog-way-the-crate/ Another protocol involves teaching the dog to cope with their own anxiety by making their current anxious go-to behaviors unpleasant, giving them an opportunity to stop those behaviors long enough to learn something new, then rewarding the correct, calmer behavior instead. This protocol can feel harsh because it involves careful correction, but it tends to work much quicker for many dogs. If you go this route, I suggest hiring a trainer who is very experienced using both positive reinforcement and fair correction. Who is extremely knowledgeable about e-collar training, and can follow the protocol listed below, to help you implement the training. Building his independence and structure in his life will still be an important part of this protocol too. First, check out this video from SolidK9Training on treating anxiety. It will give a brief over-view of treating separation anxiety more firmly. This trainer can be a bit abrupt with his teaching style with people but is very experienced working with highly aggressive, anxious, and reactive dogs. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y5GqzeLzysk Make sure you are implementing what he teaches there in other areas of his life too. Second, purchase a remote electronic collar, e-collar, with a wide range of levels. I recommend purchasing E-Collar Technologies Mini Educator or Garmin Delta Sport or Dogtra for this. If you are not comfortable with an e-collar then you can use a vibration collar (the Mini Educator and Garmin should also have a vibration mode) or unscented air remote controlled air spray collar. DO NOT use a citronella collar, buy the additional unscented air canister if the collar comes with the citronella and make sure that you use the unscented air. (Citronella collars are actually very harsh and the smell - punisher lingers a long time so the dog continues to be corrected even after they stop the behavior). The vibration or spray collars are less likely to work than stimulation e-collars though, so you may end up spending more money by not purchasing an e-collar first. The Mini Educator has very low levels of stimulation, that can be tailored specifically to your dog. It also has vibration and beep tones that you can try using first, without having to buy additional tools. Next, set up a camera to spy on him. If you have two smart devices, like tablets or smartphones, you can Skype or Facetime them to one another with your pup’s end on mute, so that you can see and hear him but he will not hear you. Video baby monitors, video security monitors with portable ways to view the video, GoPros with the phone Live App, or any other camera that will record and transmit the video to something portable that you can watch outside live will work. Next, put the e-collar on him while he is outside of the crate, standing, and relaxed. To learn how to put the collar on him, check out this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DLxB6gYsliI Turn it to it's lowest level and push the stimulation button twice. See if he responds to the collar at all. Look for subtle signs such as turning his head, moving his ears, biting his fur, moving away from where he was, or changing his expression. If he does not respond at all, then go up one level on the collar and when he is standing and relaxed, push the stimulation button again twice. Look for a reaction again. Repeat going up one level at a time and then testing his reaction at that level until he indicates a little bit that he can feel the collar. Here is a video showing how to do this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1cl3V8vYobM A modern, high quality collar will have so many levels that each level should be really subtle and he will likely respond to a low level stimulation. It's uncomfortable but not the harsh shock many people associate with such collars if done right. Once you have found the right stimulation level for him and have it correctly fitted on him, have him wear the collar around with it turned off or not being stimulated for several hours or days if you can (take it off at night to sleep though). Next, set up your camera to spy on him while he is in the crate. Put him into the crate while he is wearing the collar and leave. Spy on him from outside. Leave however you normally would. As soon as you hear him barking or see him start to try to escape or destroy the crate from the camera, push the stimulation button once. Every time he barks or tries to get out of the crate, stimulate him again. If he does not decrease his barking or escape attempts at least a little bit after being stimulated seven times in a row, then increase the stimulation level by one level. He may not feel the stimulation while excited so might need it just slightly higher. Do not go higher than three more levels on the mini-educator or two more levels on another collar with less levels right now though because he has not learned what he is supposed to be doing yet. For example, if his level is 13 out of 100 levels on the Mini Educator, don't go past level 16 right now. The level you end up using on him on the mini educator collar will probably be low to medium, within the first forty levels of the one-hundred to one-hundred-and-twenty-five levels, depending on the model you purchase. If it is not, then have a professional evaluate whether you have the correct "working level" for him. If he continues to ignore the collar, then go up one more stimulation level and if that does not work, make sure that the collar is turned on, fitted correctly, and working. After five minutes to ten minutes, as soon as your dog stays quiet and is not trying to escape for five seconds straight, go back inside to the dog, sprinkle several treats into the crate without saying anything, then leave again. Practice correcting him from outside when he barks or tries to escape, going back inside and sprinkling treats when he stays quiet, for up to 30 minutes at first. After 30 minutes -1 hour of practicing this, when he is quiet, go back inside and sprinkle more treats. This time stay inside. Do not speak to him or pay attention to him for ten minutes while you walk around and get stuff done inside. When he is being calm, then you can let him out of the crate. When you let him out, do it the way Jeff does is in this video below. Opening and closing the door until your dog is not rushing out. You want him to be calm when he comes out of the crate and to stay calm when you get home. That is why you need to ignore him when you get home right away. Also, keep your good byes extremely boring and calm. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y5GqzeLzysk Continue to put a food stuffed Kong into the crate with him. Once he is less anxious he will likely enjoy it and that will help him to enjoy the crate more. First, he probably needs his anxious state of mind interrupted so that he is open to learning other ways to behave. Once it's interrupted, give him a food stuffed Kong in the crate for him to relieve his boredom instead of barking, since he will need something other than barking to do at that point. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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