Hello, First, if food is being left out for free feeding, now that you're a two dog home, I recommend transitioning to timed meals, and if the food hasn't been eating in 45 minutes, remove what's left and add that amount to the next meal for that day. When first making the transition, you can feed lunch in addition to breakfast and dinner if pup doesn't eat at breakfast until pup adjusts to two meals a day. Feed the dogs in separate rooms or closed crates, to avoid not only the food stealing but also the stress and competing that can accompany food stealing and food guarding - which can evolve into full blown resource guarding overtime. At the same time, I recommend working on some obedience commands to help Cookie learn to respect Luna's personal space and relax more. Out command: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-the-out-command/ Leave It method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite If Cookie is initiating the conflicts with Luna, I recommend clipping Cookie to yourself with a hands free leash when the dogs are in the same room, and confining them apart when you aren't home to give Luna a break from Cookie potentially bullying until things improve. The leash can help Cookie bond with you while also learning the rules of interacting with your other dog and the home by being close to you where you can give them feedback. Since Cookie was mistreated in their previous home, its also likely she wasn't taught commands and boundaries and socialized very well, so she may need trust and respect and boundaries taught in a kind and calm way by you now. Keep treats out of sight but handy - like in a pocket in a baggie, and when you catch Cookie or Luna being calm, relaxed or tolerant of one another's presence give them a treat. Try not to let the other dog see you rewarding them though so that they don’t run over and overwhelm each other and start a food fight. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

March 15, 2023

Hello, It sounds like you are doing a good job learning what she needs and working to build trust. With a dog with such a lack of early socialization it can be a slow process. Here are some additional things you can also practice. Sit down - so that pup is calmer, and have you or your husband toss pup her dinner kibble one piece at a time without making eye contact. Do this as often as you can. Keep enough distance between them for pup to relax enough to eat the food. As she gets more comfortable, decrease the distance by tossing the treats slightly less far, so that pup has to come closer to your husband to eat them. Watch pup's body language to determine when pup is relaxed enough to decrease the distance - don't rush this process but do practice often at the current distance. When pup will come within a foot of your chair to eat the food and is relaxed at that distance, start to practice this in other positions like standing up, sitting on the ground or laying down. When you change positions, you will likely need to go back to tossing the treats further away again because the new position will probably make her more nervous. Once pup will go up to your chair when you are sitting or in one of the other positions and is even more comfortable with you both in general, put a harness or martingale type collar that pup cannot get out of on pup. Spend time slowly introducing the harness using the method from the video linked below once pup is comfortable enough to get closer to you. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tn5b8u1YS_g&feature=emb_title Choose a secure, front-clip type harness. Ideally, practice this in a fenced in area since pup may be a flight risk. Clip her leash on the harness and go on a walk with pup and your husband. If pup is nervous, have your husband stay several feet away while walking in the same direction at first - with you (or whoever pup is most comfortable with at that point, holding the leash). As pup relaxes during the walk, gradually have your husband get closer until you can hand the leash off to your husband and let him walk pup alone - without you. This might take several sessions before you can do that without pup stopping or tensing up when your husband gets close. Don't rush this - be aware of pup's body language and any tensing up. Definitely practice in a fenced area if available, even though that will mean walking back and forth a lot. Once pup will walk with your husband and get close to your husband and you to eat, practice hand-feeding her the dog food and walk her regularly to develop trust. When you get that far, also teach her commands and tricks using positive reinforcement to further build trust. Check out the article linked below as well, and be aware of pup's body language and not putting her into situations that might lead to a fear bite. https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-socialize-a-shy-dog/ It can be helpful to work with a trainer who is very experienced with counter conditioning occasionally, just to have someone monitor how pup is responding to the training and what to work on next. Kikopup on youtube is also a good resource for counter conditioning. I don't recommend all of her training advice in all areas, but her advice on counter conditioning to help with shyness can be very helpful, and she has some great videos to watch someone do it. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Jan. 23, 2023

Hello, It looks like the end of your message got cut off "playing with other dogs is not her i..." I am guessing you were going to say it's not her idea of fun. If that's the case, I would be hesitant to choose just any daycare. I would see if there is one where they will either group the dogs based on personalities - grouping her with more submissive, gentler dogs, or one where activities are more like hikes and swimming, and less free roaming with other dogs in a confined small fence. If you don't have those options, I would see about a dog walker a few times a week to start with at first. As far as the toys, I would avoid throwing or rolling any toys toward her at first. Being on the street, it's possible that things were thrown at her to get her to leave the area, or she just doesn't understand and things you are mad. Instead, look for something like a flirt pole that can be dragged along the ground like a squirrel to chase, stuff kongs with dog food and treats like liver paste (sodium free) to make things shaped like balls enticing and fun again, and work on tug games with stuffless animals dragged along the ground, to engage chase and prey drive. Once pup likes those chase and chew type games, then you can use those existing toys to toss the "animal or kong" a little ways away, like it's escaping from pup, for them to chase after. Even then, don't throw it directly at pup, toss to the side, to make it look like it's running away from pup, to get them interested. A dog unfamiliar with fetching balls, is more likely to go after something they think is running away from them than moving toward them, in general, so make it look like toys are trying to get away while introducing. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Aug. 29, 2022