If there is one game that most dogs love to play, it has to be fetch. Not only is fetch a lot of fun to play, it's a great chance for your pup to get plenty of exercise. It is also a wonderful way for you to bond with your Chihuahua. One of the most common misconceptions is that Chihuahuas, along with many other smaller dogs, can't learn to play fetch.
There is nothing further from the truth, in fact, your Chihuahua can not only be taught to play fetch, but you can bet he will most certainly love playing fetch with you and the rest of your family. Chihuahuas are, like most dogs, motivated by two things. The first, quite obviously, is food in any form. For this training, you will be using your pup's favorite treats as rewards. The other is praise and affection, both of which you will also be using as part of the training process.
Chances are good that the only reason why your pup won't play fetch with you, is simply that you have not yet taken the time to teach him. Fetch is a very simple game, you toss out a ball or toy and your pup is supposed to go after it and bring it back to you. Sounds pretty simple, doesn't it? In all reality, the concept is simple, and it really doesn't need to take that long to learn. With a little time, effort and patience, you and your pup will soon be playing fetch every time you get chance.
Worth noting is that you will get much further in your training session if you use positive reinforcement. You should never punish your dog or yell at him. Instead, be ready with plenty of praise and a healthy supply of his favorite treats when he gets the training right
It really doesn't take much to start training your Chihuahua to play fetch with you once he has mastered the four basic commands of 'come', 'sit', 'stay', and 'down'. You are going to need a few supplies to help with this training. Among them are
The only other things you are likely to need are plenty of space to work in and lots of time and patience. It should only take you a few weeks for your pup to master this skill. The best part is that once he has learned to play fetch, your pup will want to play it all the time.
He is friendly with humans, but barks at dogs. Even the shadows of dogs triggers his barking and growling.
Hello! I am sending you information on how to turn this behavior around. Keep in mind, it does take time. About 3 months. You will start to see initial improvements within a few weeks of consistent practice. But it can take up to about 3 months for a complete improvement. Begin by teaching your dog that the sight of another dog means good things will happen. Employ your dog’s favorite doggy friends for these practice sessions, and keep all dogs on leash while you are training. Once your dog has mastered the basics, you can begin to expose him to strange dogs while on leash, either at a dog park or in your neighborhood. Start with the other dog far enough away that your dog notices him but does not react. Each time your dog looks at the other dog without barking or otherwise reacting, mark with a “good” and treat. When you first begin, your dog will likely be nervous when he sees the other dog and he may only turn toward you for a moment, to get his treat, before looking back at the other dog. Treat frequently in the beginning, until your dog learns to relax. Once your dog can look at another dog without reacting, teach him to turn and sit facing you when you stop on a walk. Reward your dog for staying in his sit, or for maintaining eye contact with you, while the other dog passes by. Next, teach your dog to heel on leash as he approaches the other dog. Hold your dog on a loose leash; a tight leash can heighten reactivity. Treat your dog when he walks next to you; if he pulls on the leash or crosses in front of you, stop walking. Use a treat to lure him back to your side. Walk toward the other dog at an angle or perpendicular to the other dog, rather than head on. After a series of successful approaches, reward your dog with an off-leash play session in a safe area. In addition to teaching your dog to heel, teach him to turn with you on cue. Work on both a 90-degree turn and a 180-degree turn. Give your dog a cue, such as “turn” and lure him towards you. As soon as he turns, treat and continue walking forward rewarding the heel. A turn can be used to create distance between your dog and another dog, and allows you to focus on calming behaviors until your dog learns to relax when another dog is nearby. You can divert your dog’s attention by walking up a driveway, crossing the street, or moving behind a barrier such as a parked car or bush. Finally, turn spotting another dog into your canine’s cue to do a trick he enjoys. Excellent replacement behaviors include hand targeting, down stay, shake, spin, roll over and play dead. Certain cues may be causing your dog to react when he’s on leash or behind a barrier. The sound of approaching dogs, such as jingling tags or vocalizations, may set your dog off. When you are walking with your dog, you may inadvertently jerk or tighten the leash when you get nervous about an approaching dog. These cues make your dog even more tense. Change your dog’s association by pairing these cues with something pleasurable. Practice tightening the leash and giving your dog a reward. Pair the barking or collar jingling of another dog with the onset of a treat party. Extra exercise outside of training situations and away from other dogs, such as treadmill workouts or fetch, can also be helpful for dogs with barrier frustration. Dog-friendly canines can benefit from a play session with another dog before training to satisfy their desire for interaction. In addition, using food puzzles instead of food bowls to feed your pet helps to channel his extra energy. A Thundershirt can be extremely beneficial in training dogs with barrier frustration. Adding the pressure wrap shirt to a training session automatically calms many anxious canines. Collars are not the best solution for dogs that react on leash, because they don’t allow you to pull your dog around to face you when needed. Instead, use a harness that clips on the dog’s chest, or a head halter for optimal control. In an emergency, if your dog becomes overwhelmingly worked up at the sight of an approaching dog, you can distract him by tossing treats on the ground for him to pick up until the other dog is past. Please let me know if you have any questions. Thank you for writing in!
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