He's always pulled on the leash but you didn't think too much about it. That is until you slipped on ice and wrenched your back. Now, not only is the ground treacherous underfoot, but it's as if the dog is trying to pull you over with every step. And if the fear of another fall isn't bad enough, despite his diminutive size a dog with a low center of gravity really hurts a sore back when he pulls. Indeed, it's occurred to you on more than one occasion to wonder how people with really big dogs cope...but there again...they are usually breeds that are easier to train than your little free-spirited pocket rocket.
As part of learning to walk to heel, it helps to get inside a dog's mind and understand why he pulls. The majority of dogs pull because of excitement (Hey! Let's get to the park!), although some do pull because they are fearful and want to get back home, or they want to control the pace you're walking at.
Teaching a stubborn dog to heel means resetting those expectations, and realizing that pulling doesn't get him to the park faster but rather slows things up.
In addition, you will need these basic supplies:
I can not get her to stop pulling on lead.
Hello Tina, I would start by working on a structured heel with pup without distractions around, and as pup improves intentionally work pup up to distractions. Check out the Turns method from the article I have linked below. Heel article - The turns method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Heel Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTiKVc4ZZWo Additionally, I would see if you can recruit friends or family with dog friendly dogs to practice the Passing Approach and Walking Together methods from the article I have linked below. The goal in your case is not for the dogs to meet but to repeat the passes enough that the other dog becomes boring and your dog gets into the habit of staying calm around other dogs while walking. I would start with the Turns method without distractions around first though, and work up to this once pup is a the point where you are ready to practice around other dogs and people. Leave It method - useful during the walk also: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite Quiet method - if pup barks at others during the walk: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bark Passing Approach and Walking Together methods for heeling past dogs: https://wagwalking.com/training/greet-other-dogs Finally, if you are using a back clip harness to walk pup I would switch to a no-pull type of collar, front clip harness, martingale, or prong, collar (be sure to watch videos on how to fit properly because they are generally fitted wrong by most people). Having something clipped to pup's back will actually encourage more pulling (think sled dog), a clip in the front will act more like a horses bridle - turning pup when they pull instead of letting them put their weight into it. For very strong pullers prong collars and gentle leaders tend to decrease pulling the most, but they need to be fitted properly and training like the Turns method done in combination with those tools, not just depending on the tools alone, and to teach pup to focus on you and understand what to do instead of pull - which is walk in the heel position. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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Mercury won't release socks or other items which she has picked up. Recently had to have an operation to remove a sock from her stomach.
We don't try and take the item from her mouth, we use 'drop it' command and lots of treats to get her to drop it. How do we get her to leave it in the first place or release quicker so that she doesn't swallow more unsuitable things in the past?
Hello, I am glad that Millie survived the first sock incident. Take extra care to dog-proof the home, picking up everything in sight such as socks and toys. Using the Drop It command is an excellent idea. Teach her the Leave It command as well, in hopes that she will not pick up any items in the first place. Take a look here: https://wagwalking.com/training/leave-it-1. Also, https://wagwalking.com/training/leave-it. It is very similar to Drop It, and since Millie has mastered that one, Leave It should be okay. To puppy-proof the home is important - assume that everything lying around is a danger to her. Make sure that she has plenty of interactive toys to play with that release treats; this should teach her that these bring more value when played with. Walk her often, tiring her out as well so that she doesn't go looking for things to entertain herself. Lastly, it's okay to take something from her and replace it with a treat or toy as you tell her to Leave It. Soon, she'll do it automatically. All the best to Millie!
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My dog doesn't quite understand to stay beside me, she has had no training and is currently in training to be a service dog, she likes to walk with her nose to the ground and only responds to the "watch me" command when we are in my dorm. Is there anyway to help her understand the command in stores or outside? and how can I teach her heel.
Hello Danielle, Check out the Turns method from the article linked below. I also recommend when you reward pup with treats to give them right next to your leg, so pup begins to expect treats to appear there. Socializing pup around lots of distractions can also help desensitize pup to all the new exciting smells, and continue to practice Watch Me, starting with slightly more distracting locations than your dorm - like in the hallway when it's empty, and very gradually working up to harder distractions as pup improves - don't expect pup to be able to do it somewhere really hard like a park with tons of people at first, try taking baby steps, increasing distractions very gradually as you practice often. Turns method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Finally, pay attention to your own energy. Puppies tend to need higher energy and little silliness to keep them engaged at first. Running a bit, changing pace often, telling pup to heel in a more excited upbeat tone of voice, praising enthusiastically, and keeping your energy a little higher while teaching heel can help a puppy stay more engaged too. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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How do i get him to heal focus and ignore people and kids. He is in training for a service dog yes i know he is old but he is healthy and loves working
Hello Arianna, Check out the heeling article linked below and the Turns method. Expect to practice a lot, even if that means walking in circles in your culdesac and yard a lot at first, and very gradually working up to more distracting locations. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Start with the turns method from the article linked above and practice a lot. If you aren't seeing improvement, then also check out the video linked below for a bit firmer approach. Either way the Turns method should come first though. Heel Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTiKVc4ZZWo Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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We start the walk by sit first, I put treats in front of his nose and take my first step with left leg staying heel. He starts walking ok but then pulls excessively please help. I do stop and turn in the opposite direction. Occasionally I turn in diff way sometimes to my and sometimes to my right. But again after a while he pulls again.
Hello Rachel, I suggest holding the food inside your hand, behind your back so that he wants to be behind you and doesn't have his face past your leg. Once his face goes past your leg it is hard to cut in front of him and regain his focus. Follow the "Turns" method from the article linked below. Heel article - The turns method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Heel Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTiKVc4ZZWo Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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