How to Train Your Stubborn Dog to Heel

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How to Train Your Stubborn Dog to Heel

Medium

1-4 Weeks

General

Introduction

Oh, how you wish your dog would walk to heel!

He's always pulled on the leash but you didn't think too much about it. That is until you slipped on ice and wrenched your back. Now, not only is the ground treacherous underfoot, but it's as if the dog is trying to pull you over with every step. And if the fear of another fall isn't bad enough, despite his diminutive size a dog with a low center of gravity really hurts a sore back when he pulls. Indeed, it's occurred to you on more than one occasion to wonder how people with really big dogs cope...but there again...they are usually breeds that are easier to train than your little free-spirited pocket rocket.

Defining Tasks

Walking to heel is a learned skill that every dog, regardless of size, is capable of.

As part of learning to walk to heel, it helps to get inside a dog's mind and understand why he pulls. The majority of dogs pull because of excitement (Hey! Let's get to the park!), although some do pull because they are fearful and want to get back home, or they want to control the pace you're walking at.

Teaching a stubborn dog to heel means resetting those expectations, and realizing that pulling doesn't get him to the park faster but rather slows things up.

Getting Started

To train a stubborn dog, the most important requirements are patience (by the bucket load), time, and consistency. This is so that the dog clearly understands what's expected of him and the consequences should he chose to carry on pulling on the leash.

In addition, you will need these basic supplies:

A collar and leash
Training treats
A treat bag for easy access to the rewards
A clicker

The Stop and Sit Method

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Step

Understand the idea

Here you first teach the dog that when you walk and stop suddenly, he gets a treat if he sits down. Once the dog learns this you then stop walking whenever he starts to surge ahead, so the dog then stops and sits. With the dog watching for opportunities to sit for a reward, he pretty soon by default learns to walk to heel.

Step

Start in a quiet room

The first step is to teach the dog to stop and sit immediately you stop walking. To do this, have a tasty treat to hand. Get the dog's attention on the treat and walk a few steps. Stop. Ignore the dog and wait for him to present you with a sit. Don't tell him what you want, he has to work out that it's 'sit' that gets the treat. He may fool around, walk round you, paw your leg... ignore him. Eventually he will sit, if only to think about what the heck is going on. At this point say "Yes" in an excited voice and give him the reward. Practice.

Step

Go for a short walk

With the dog's newly acquired skill, take him for a short walk. Hold the treat in your hand and after a few steps stop. Wait for the dog to sit, and reward him. Walk another few steps, then stop. When he sits, reward him

Step

Label the action as 'heel'

As the dog cooperates in this stop-start game, while he's walking beside you, label this "heel" in a firm but happy voice. Then stop and when he sits, offer the reward. Start to stretch out the distances you walk before stopping.

Step

Stop for surging

As the dog improves, when you notice him start to surge ahead, immediately stop and wait for him to sit. This halts his forward movement and brings him back under control.

Step

Use the 'heel' command

Now make full use of the 'heel' command by using it on walks. As he gets good at walking to heel, give him occasional rewards while he is walking nicely by your side, in order to reward his great behavior.

The Clicker Training Method

Effective

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Step

Understand the idea

The clicker uses a distinctive noise to mark the desired behavior (in this case, walking to heel). The dog is also taught to link the click with getting a reward. The idea is that the dog links the action that's clicked with a treat. This is the basis of reward-based training and is a way of encouraging the dog to walk well to heel.

Step

Link click to reward

Scatter a few treats on the ground. As the dog eats each treat, click. Now, offer the dog a small treat and as he takes it, click. Repeat this several times. Then wait until the dog turns away from you and press the clicker. If he turns and looks for a reward, you'll know he is now associating the clicking sound with a reward and you are ready to move onto the next step.

Step

Lure with a treat

Have the dog on a collar and leash in a quiet place with few distractions. Hold a treat in your left hand, just in front of the dog's nose to encourage him to walk forward matching your stride.

Step

Click and reward

Once the dog has taken a few steps forward in the heel position, say "Heel" and quickly click and reward him. Keep repeating this, luring him forward with the treat and clicking when he walks as requested.

Step

Stretch out the rewards

As the dog learns to be attentive, try this training but without a treat in your hand. Command the dog to heel and if he takes a few steps by your side, click and reward. As training progresses, travel further each time before you click and reward.

The Stop and Turn Method

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2 Votes

Step

Understand the idea

A dog that fails to walk to heel is usually pulling hard on the leash because he's keen to get to the park. In the dog's mind, pulling is rewarded by getting where he wants to go. The idea behind this method is to teach the dog that pulling only delays arrival, and therefore it's better to walk to heel.

Step

Prepare to go nowhere fast

Chose a time when you're not in a rush. This is because you are going to spend at least 20 minutes going absolutely nowhere as the dog zigzags to-and-fro on the end of the leash.

Step

Stop when the dog pulls

Start on the walk. As soon as the dog pulls on the lead, stop in your tracks. Ask the dog to come to heel. If he does, great! Reward him and start moving forward again. Repeat this each time the dog surges ahead.

Step

Switch direction

If, however, you stop and the dog continues straining on the end of the leash, determined to power you to the park, then a different strategy is required. This time, start walking in the exact opposite direction. Slap your thighs and encourage the dog to follow. As he reaches your heel, say "Heel" and praise him.

Step

Switch and switch again

The dog may take a few steps to your heel and then decide he can speed things up by pulling again. Do exactly what you did before, call the dog, and if he doesn't come to heel, switch direction and walk off. You can expect to-and-fro while staying on the same spot. But eventually, the dog will figure out that when he pulls he gets further from the desired destination, not closer and he'll start to walk to heel.

Written by Pippa Elliott

Published: 11/30/2017, edited: 01/08/2021

Success Stories and Training Questions

Training Questions and Answers

Question

Izzy

Australian Cattle Dog (Blue Heeler)

3 Years

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Question

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Izzy

Australian Cattle Dog (Blue Heeler)

3 Years

I can not get her to stop pulling on lead.

11 months, 3 weeks ago

Izzy's Owner

Caitlin Crittenden

Dog Trainer

1123 Dog owners recommended

Hello Tina, I would start by working on a structured heel with pup without distractions around, and as pup improves intentionally work pup up to distractions. Check out the Turns method from the article I have linked below. Heel article - The turns method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Heel Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTiKVc4ZZWo Additionally, I would see if you can recruit friends or family with dog friendly dogs to practice the Passing Approach and Walking Together methods from the article I have linked below. The goal in your case is not for the dogs to meet but to repeat the passes enough that the other dog becomes boring and your dog gets into the habit of staying calm around other dogs while walking. I would start with the Turns method without distractions around first though, and work up to this once pup is a the point where you are ready to practice around other dogs and people. Leave It method - useful during the walk also: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite Quiet method - if pup barks at others during the walk: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bark Passing Approach and Walking Together methods for heeling past dogs: https://wagwalking.com/training/greet-other-dogs Finally, if you are using a back clip harness to walk pup I would switch to a no-pull type of collar, front clip harness, martingale, or prong, collar (be sure to watch videos on how to fit properly because they are generally fitted wrong by most people). Having something clipped to pup's back will actually encourage more pulling (think sled dog), a clip in the front will act more like a horses bridle - turning pup when they pull instead of letting them put their weight into it. For very strong pullers prong collars and gentle leaders tend to decrease pulling the most, but they need to be fitted properly and training like the Turns method done in combination with those tools, not just depending on the tools alone, and to teach pup to focus on you and understand what to do instead of pull - which is walk in the heel position. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

11 months, 3 weeks ago

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Millie

cockapoo

10 Months

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Millie

cockapoo

10 Months

Mercury won't release socks or other items which she has picked up. Recently had to have an operation to remove a sock from her stomach.
We don't try and take the item from her mouth, we use 'drop it' command and lots of treats to get her to drop it. How do we get her to leave it in the first place or release quicker so that she doesn't swallow more unsuitable things in the past?

1 year, 5 months ago

Millie's Owner

Darlene Stott

Dog Trainer and Groomer

104 Dog owners recommended

Hello, I am glad that Millie survived the first sock incident. Take extra care to dog-proof the home, picking up everything in sight such as socks and toys. Using the Drop It command is an excellent idea. Teach her the Leave It command as well, in hopes that she will not pick up any items in the first place. Take a look here: https://wagwalking.com/training/leave-it-1. Also, https://wagwalking.com/training/leave-it. It is very similar to Drop It, and since Millie has mastered that one, Leave It should be okay. To puppy-proof the home is important - assume that everything lying around is a danger to her. Make sure that she has plenty of interactive toys to play with that release treats; this should teach her that these bring more value when played with. Walk her often, tiring her out as well so that she doesn't go looking for things to entertain herself. Lastly, it's okay to take something from her and replace it with a treat or toy as you tell her to Leave It. Soon, she'll do it automatically. All the best to Millie!

1 year, 5 months ago

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Question

Tambora

Golden Retriever

5 Months

0 found helpful

Question

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Tambora

Golden Retriever

5 Months

My dog doesn't quite understand to stay beside me, she has had no training and is currently in training to be a service dog, she likes to walk with her nose to the ground and only responds to the "watch me" command when we are in my dorm. Is there anyway to help her understand the command in stores or outside? and how can I teach her heel.

1 year, 7 months ago

Tambora's Owner

Caitlin Crittenden

Dog Trainer

1123 Dog owners recommended

Hello Danielle, Check out the Turns method from the article linked below. I also recommend when you reward pup with treats to give them right next to your leg, so pup begins to expect treats to appear there. Socializing pup around lots of distractions can also help desensitize pup to all the new exciting smells, and continue to practice Watch Me, starting with slightly more distracting locations than your dorm - like in the hallway when it's empty, and very gradually working up to harder distractions as pup improves - don't expect pup to be able to do it somewhere really hard like a park with tons of people at first, try taking baby steps, increasing distractions very gradually as you practice often. Turns method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Finally, pay attention to your own energy. Puppies tend to need higher energy and little silliness to keep them engaged at first. Running a bit, changing pace often, telling pup to heel in a more excited upbeat tone of voice, praising enthusiastically, and keeping your energy a little higher while teaching heel can help a puppy stay more engaged too. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

1 year, 7 months ago

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Chip

Pomeranian chihuahua

6 Years

0 found helpful

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Chip

Pomeranian chihuahua

6 Years

How do i get him to heal focus and ignore people and kids. He is in training for a service dog yes i know he is old but he is healthy and loves working

2 years, 8 months ago

Chip's Owner

Caitlin Crittenden

Dog Trainer

1123 Dog owners recommended

Hello Arianna, Check out the heeling article linked below and the Turns method. Expect to practice a lot, even if that means walking in circles in your culdesac and yard a lot at first, and very gradually working up to more distracting locations. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Start with the turns method from the article linked above and practice a lot. If you aren't seeing improvement, then also check out the video linked below for a bit firmer approach. Either way the Turns method should come first though. Heel Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTiKVc4ZZWo Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

2 years, 8 months ago

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Tia

Husky

9 Years

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Question

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Tia

Husky

9 Years

We start the walk by sit first, I put treats in front of his nose and take my first step with left leg staying heel. He starts walking ok but then pulls excessively please help. I do stop and turn in the opposite direction. Occasionally I turn in diff way sometimes to my and sometimes to my right. But again after a while he pulls again.

3 years, 1 month ago

Tia's Owner

Caitlin Crittenden

Dog Trainer

1123 Dog owners recommended

Hello Rachel, I suggest holding the food inside your hand, behind your back so that he wants to be behind you and doesn't have his face past your leg. Once his face goes past your leg it is hard to cut in front of him and regain his focus. Follow the "Turns" method from the article linked below. Heel article - The turns method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Heel Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTiKVc4ZZWo Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

3 years, 1 month ago