Are you tired of having your arm ripped out of the socket every time your dog sees another dog? Most dogs are quite social and merely want to get to know each other, but there are times when this behavior is less than friendly.
Imagine this: You are standing on the sidewalk chatting with a friend who is taking her dog for a walk. Your dog is lying at your feet, he isn't growling, barking, or trying to launch himself at the other dog. Instead, he is simply laying there looking at you as if to say, "Hey mom, can I go say hi?”
This doesn't have to be a dream, you can easily teach your furry friend to behave this way. It just takes plenty of patience and the desire to behave for rewards.
Training your dog to stop running after other dogs is not an easy task. This type of behavior is inherent in most, if not all, breeds. The concept behind this training is to teach your dog to completely ignore other dogs and to stop them running or lunging after them.
Whether you are trying to teach your dog to behave while he is on the leash, off the leash or both, this is a very important skill for your pup to learn. It could save you, your dog, and another dog or its owner from serious injury.
When walking on the leash you should be able to simply use the "No!" command to keep your dog in check. When he is not on a leash, you may need to rely on a strong recall or ‘down’ command to get the job done. Always remember, training your dog a new skill should be fun for both of you! Heap tons of praise on your dog and always be ready with plenty of his favorite tasty treats to reward him.
You will need:
The best place to start training your dog to behave around other dogs is a nice quiet area with a dog yours is friendly with, but tends to lunge after. Make sure everyone in the family is in on the training and knows exactly what you are doing to ensure you are all on the same page.
You need to schedule training sessions of ten to fifteen minutes three times a day until your dog finally learns what is expected of him. Of course, you should also practice every time you take your dog out for a walk as well. Remember, the earlier you start teaching your pup to behave, the easier it will be to train him.
My dog does great at the dog park for the first 10-15 minutes but then becomes aggressive. He's triggered by other dogs running and playing and he will run after other dogs and growl or bark at them when he catches up to them. He doesn't bite but has body slammed other dogs before. The behavior does not look playful. We always have to cut our time at the dog park short because he always does this.
Hello Brittany, Unfortunately, Arnold needs to stop going to the dog park completely. You can continue to have structured play dates with one or two other dogs that you know in your own fenced yards, and practice obedience between play times, to work on his impulses. You can also participate in dog walks with groups like meetup.com, or do structured dog sports, or hikes with Arnold with other dogs. If you continue going to the dog park the behavior will likely only get worse. Because of the pack environment of the dog park, the lack of structure, and how unsafe it would be to use treats or a long leash to enforce training at a dog park, you cannot safely and effectively train a dog in a standard dog park. You have to train a dog in other environments and then use your dog's current training at the park. The running of the other dogs creates arousal, and the pack mentality of the other dogs can cause dogs to act like bullies, try to control other dogs' movements, and even cause fights. It is the opposite of a calm and controlled environment, and some dogs don't do well with the lack of structure and odd behavior and emotional states of the various dogs at the park. This environment can bring out the worst in some dogs and actually cause behavior problems that were not there to show up and continue to get worse. Dog parks are not necessarily bad in general, but they are not a good place for all dogs. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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She has discovered dogs across the field and runs away every time I let her out to be with the other dogs. How can I stop this?
Hello Sandra, Check out the article that I have linked below and follow the "Reel In" method. Once she can come on the long leash without distractions, then practice on the long leash around other dogs. Start from far away and as she improves make the distractions harder by getting closer or practicing around multiple dogs and other types of distractions. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-whippet-to-recall Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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there was a similar question to mine, about a dog getting excited at a dog park and chasing down other dogs. Cooper has this and it comes out at the park when an owner throws the ball for his dog to fetch. cooper runs down the dog. But he also does this NOT in the park. Any time another dog is excited cooper wants to chase him down and make him stop. Cooper is very friendly to people and most dogs. How do I get this to stop? He is pretty easy to train I just dont know how to set this up or what to do.
Hello Kathleen, First, if he is at all aggressive toward the other dogs once he catches them, hire a professional trainer to help you. Practicing this if he is aggressive is not safe without having the right tools and environment to keep everyone safe. If he simply stops the dog from running and is being controlling but not aggressive, many herding breeds will do that, and some dogs that do not herd as well. You need to work on teaching him a couple of commands and work on those commands until he can perform them around high levels of distractions. When he starts to move toward another dog to chase, before he is in full chase give him a command, such as Leave It or Out (which means leave the area). He is probably not a dog that can ever play with other dogs without some structure and instruction from you. Some dogs simply need the extra management to help them make the choices you want because their own instincts compel them to do something that would get them in trouble. First, teach him what "Leave It" and "Out" mean. Once he understands what they mean and can do Leave It around objects and food, practice it on a leash around movement, starting with small movement like your hand and a toy and gradually working up to harder things. Check out the article that I have linked below and follow the "Leave It" method to teach him what Leave It means. After you have taught that, then continue the training around harder distractions, like movement on a longer leash. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite Once he knows what "Out" means and will obey it at home, use a long leash to practice it around other things that excite him, enforcing your command with a long leash and harness by reeling him in to you when he is further away from you and disobeys. Practice until he will immediately move away from something exciting before you have to reel him in when you tell him "Out". You can also teach Out and use a vibration collar for added reliability. I suggest hiring a professional trainer to help with any e-collar training though. To teach what "Out" means: 1. First call him over to you, then toss a treat several feet away from yourself while pointing to the area where you are tossing the treat with the finger of your treat tossing hand and saying "Out" at the same time. Repeat this until he will go over to the area where you point when you say "Out" before you have tossed a treat. 2. When he will do that, then whenever you tell him "Out" and he does not go to where you are pointing, walk toward him and herd him out of the area with your body. Your attitude should be calm and patient but very firm and business like when you do this. 3. When you get to where you were pointing to, then stop and wait until he stops trying to go back to the area where you were standing before. 4. When he is no longer trying to get past you, then slowly walk backwards to where you were before. If he follows you, then tell him "Out" again and quickly walk toward him until he is back to where he was a moment ago. Repeat this until he will stay several feet away from where you were when you told him "Out" originally. 5. When you are ready for him to come back, then tell him "OK" in an up beat tone of voice. 6. Practice this training until he will consistently leave the area when you tell him "Out". 7. When he will consistently leave, then practice the training with other areas that you would like for him to leave, such as the kitchen when you are preparing food, a person's space when he is being pushy, an area with a plant that he is trying to dig up, or somewhere with something in your home that he should not be bothering. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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I’m trying to train her to walk off leash, and she does so good with recall and everything until she sees another dog or person. She runs off and goes right up to them and I can’t even get her back. I don’t know what to do, and I don’t know how tI train her to not do that.
Hello Kylie, You need yo practice with a long leash before going completely off leash. I suggest starting with a 30' leash and going places like the park where she will see other dogs and rewarding her for heeling while the leash is dragging on the ground, coming when called and generally staying with you. As she improves move onto a 40'-50' leash that is very light weight - to give the feel of being off leash. The leash will let you enforce your commanf while dogs are around by stopping her from getting to them and you reeling her in wen she disobeys your Come command. She is not ready for freedom until she never disobeys with the light weight fifty foot leash. Check out the article linked below and the "Reel In" method for how to teach Come using a long leash. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-whippet-to-recall Best of luck training Caitlin Crittenden
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