How to Train Your Dog to Not Run After Other Dogs

Medium
4-12 Weeks
Behavior

Introduction

Are you tired of having your arm ripped out of the socket every time your dog sees another dog? Most dogs are quite social and merely want to get to know each other, but there are times when this behavior is less than friendly.

Imagine this: You are standing on the sidewalk chatting with a friend who is taking her dog for a walk. Your dog is lying at your feet, he isn't growling, barking, or trying to launch himself at the other dog. Instead, he is simply laying there looking at you as if to say, "Hey mom, can I go say hi?”

This doesn't have to be a dream, you can easily teach your furry friend to behave this way. It just takes plenty of patience and the desire to behave for rewards.

Defining Tasks

Training your dog to stop running after other dogs is not an easy task. This type of behavior is inherent in most, if not all, breeds. The concept behind this training is to teach your dog to completely ignore other dogs and to stop them running or lunging after them.

Whether you are trying to teach your dog to behave while he is on the leash, off the leash or both, this is a very important skill for your pup to learn. It could save you, your dog, and another dog or its owner from serious injury.

When walking on the leash you should be able to simply use the "No!" command to keep your dog in check. When he is not on a leash, you may need to rely on a strong recall or ‘down’ command to get the job done. Always remember, training your dog a new skill should be fun for both of you! Heap tons of praise on your dog and always be ready with plenty of his favorite tasty treats to reward him.

Getting Started

You will need:

  • Your pup's favorite treats: Your dog will learn better when he knows there is a tasty treat waiting for him when he gets it right.
  • Clicker training tool (optional): Some pet owners and trainers prefer using a clicker for training as it makes it easy to identify the desired action.  

The best place to start training your dog to behave around other dogs is a nice quiet area with a dog yours is friendly with, but tends to lunge after. Make sure everyone in the family is in on the training and knows exactly what you are doing to ensure you are all on the same page.

You need to schedule training sessions of ten to fifteen minutes three times a day until your dog finally learns what is expected of him. Of course, you should also practice every time you take your dog out for a walk as well. Remember, the earlier you start teaching your pup to behave, the easier it will be to train him.


The Long-Line Method

Effective
0 Votes
Step
1
Leash your dog
Attach your dog to a long-line leash and ask your family or friends with dogs to walk their dogs near yours.
Step
2
Let him wander
Slowly over the first few days, let your dog wander closer to the others, but maintain control.
Step
3
Call him back
As he starts to take off towards the other dogs, call his name and use your recall command. If he returns to you, be sure to praise him and give him a tasty treat.
Step
4
Hold steady
If he doesn't come back, use the leash to stop his forward movement, and then go and bring him back the starting distance.
Step
5
Practice
Repeat this process until you can let the leash trail behind him and he will come back when you call him.
Recommend training method?

The Run Away Method

Effective
0 Votes
Step
1
Out for a walk
Take your dog for his usual walk, keeping your eyes out for other dogs.
Step
2
Run away!
When you see another dog, use a fun, friendly voice to command your dog to "run away."
Step
3
Head elsewhere
Head off in a different direction, making the whole thing into a game your dog will enjoy.
Step
4
Come with me
This should get your dog to run with you away from the other dog.
Step
5
Lure with treats
If he doesn't run with you, try tossing a few of his favorite treats in the direction you want him to run until he gets the idea.
Recommend training method?

The Body Block Method

Least Recommended
1 Vote
Step
1
Daily walks
Take your dog out for his daily walk watching for the approach of another dog.
Step
2
Don't pull back
If he starts to pull towards the other dog, don't pull back, stand still and hold your spot.
Step
3
Just say no!
Use a correction word such as "No!" and gently tug on the leash to pull his head to the side.
Step
4
Put your body to work
Use your body to turn your dog around instead of pulling him around.
Step
5
Reinforce with treats
If he behaves, be sure to give him plenty of love and a tasty treat.
Recommend training method?
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Written by Amy Caldwell

Published: 12/28/2017, edited: 01/08/2021

Success Stories and Training Questions

Training Questions and Answers

Question
Charlie
Keeshond
11 Months
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Charlie
Keeshond
11 Months

She has discovered dogs across the field and runs away every time I let her out to be with the other dogs. How can I stop this?

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
841 Dog owners recommended

Hello Sandra, Check out the article that I have linked below and follow the "Reel In" method. Once she can come on the long leash without distractions, then practice on the long leash around other dogs. Start from far away and as she improves make the distractions harder by getting closer or practicing around multiple dogs and other types of distractions. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-whippet-to-recall Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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cooper
Pit bull
2 Years
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cooper
Pit bull
2 Years

there was a similar question to mine, about a dog getting excited at a dog park and chasing down other dogs. Cooper has this and it comes out at the park when an owner throws the ball for his dog to fetch. cooper runs down the dog. But he also does this NOT in the park. Any time another dog is excited cooper wants to chase him down and make him stop. Cooper is very friendly to people and most dogs. How do I get this to stop? He is pretty easy to train I just dont know how to set this up or what to do.

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
841 Dog owners recommended

Hello Kathleen, First, if he is at all aggressive toward the other dogs once he catches them, hire a professional trainer to help you. Practicing this if he is aggressive is not safe without having the right tools and environment to keep everyone safe. If he simply stops the dog from running and is being controlling but not aggressive, many herding breeds will do that, and some dogs that do not herd as well. You need to work on teaching him a couple of commands and work on those commands until he can perform them around high levels of distractions. When he starts to move toward another dog to chase, before he is in full chase give him a command, such as Leave It or Out (which means leave the area). He is probably not a dog that can ever play with other dogs without some structure and instruction from you. Some dogs simply need the extra management to help them make the choices you want because their own instincts compel them to do something that would get them in trouble. First, teach him what "Leave It" and "Out" mean. Once he understands what they mean and can do Leave It around objects and food, practice it on a leash around movement, starting with small movement like your hand and a toy and gradually working up to harder things. Check out the article that I have linked below and follow the "Leave It" method to teach him what Leave It means. After you have taught that, then continue the training around harder distractions, like movement on a longer leash. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite Once he knows what "Out" means and will obey it at home, use a long leash to practice it around other things that excite him, enforcing your command with a long leash and harness by reeling him in to you when he is further away from you and disobeys. Practice until he will immediately move away from something exciting before you have to reel him in when you tell him "Out". You can also teach Out and use a vibration collar for added reliability. I suggest hiring a professional trainer to help with any e-collar training though. To teach what "Out" means: 1. First call him over to you, then toss a treat several feet away from yourself while pointing to the area where you are tossing the treat with the finger of your treat tossing hand and saying "Out" at the same time. Repeat this until he will go over to the area where you point when you say "Out" before you have tossed a treat. 2. When he will do that, then whenever you tell him "Out" and he does not go to where you are pointing, walk toward him and herd him out of the area with your body. Your attitude should be calm and patient but very firm and business like when you do this. 3. When you get to where you were pointing to, then stop and wait until he stops trying to go back to the area where you were standing before. 4. When he is no longer trying to get past you, then slowly walk backwards to where you were before. If he follows you, then tell him "Out" again and quickly walk toward him until he is back to where he was a moment ago. Repeat this until he will stay several feet away from where you were when you told him "Out" originally. 5. When you are ready for him to come back, then tell him "OK" in an up beat tone of voice. 6. Practice this training until he will consistently leave the area when you tell him "Out". 7. When he will consistently leave, then practice the training with other areas that you would like for him to leave, such as the kitchen when you are preparing food, a person's space when he is being pushy, an area with a plant that he is trying to dig up, or somewhere with something in your home that he should not be bothering. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Willow
German Shepard border collie
7 Months
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Willow
German Shepard border collie
7 Months

I’m trying to train her to walk off leash, and she does so good with recall and everything until she sees another dog or person. She runs off and goes right up to them and I can’t even get her back. I don’t know what to do, and I don’t know how tI train her to not do that.

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
841 Dog owners recommended

Hello Kylie, You need yo practice with a long leash before going completely off leash. I suggest starting with a 30' leash and going places like the park where she will see other dogs and rewarding her for heeling while the leash is dragging on the ground, coming when called and generally staying with you. As she improves move onto a 40'-50' leash that is very light weight - to give the feel of being off leash. The leash will let you enforce your commanf while dogs are around by stopping her from getting to them and you reeling her in wen she disobeys your Come command. She is not ready for freedom until she never disobeys with the light weight fifty foot leash. Check out the article linked below and the "Reel In" method for how to teach Come using a long leash. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-whippet-to-recall Best of luck training Caitlin Crittenden

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Muffin
Labradoodle
2 Years
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Muffin
Labradoodle
2 Years

My dog knows all the commands, but still stubborn sometimes. However my problem is my dog is 60 lbs and I can’t hold on to him. We walk 3 miles every other day. Other dogs have have kind of mastered when walking but we have deer here and other animals. However she gotten she can chase deer. However when baby comes she takes off. The other day I came around the corn on and there were baby chicks in the road and I wasn’t prepared. My biggest problem is she loves the neighbors across the street and runs off to see them when they are out. I don’t mind her loving the neighbors but I just don’t want her running across the street to them unless I give her permission ( we do live on a dead end street but still I want her to know the street is a enemy if you get my drift. I have tried so many things but she ignores my commands when it comes to thing like that. Help. I really can’t afford lessons but I getting desperate and frustrated

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
841 Dog owners recommended

Hello Pat, I suggest teaching an e-collar recall because of all the animals in your area. Check out Sean O Shea from the Good Dog, Jeff Gellman from SolidK9Training, and James penrith from TaketheLeadDogTraining. All of them can be found on YouTube and are trainers with how to videos about e-collars. E-collars are generally something I recommend hiring a trainer to help you with but if you are willing to learn enough about their use on you own, you can use one yourself. Take the time to learn about fitting, finding the working level, when to reward and correct, and how to use it for come. The YouTube channels I mentioned above will have videos on those things and more. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Texas
American Staffordshire Terrier
3 Years
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Texas
American Staffordshire Terrier
3 Years

He is very well socialised and has always done well whilst at day care etc in group environments. Recently we have begun to have problems with him chasing other dogs, usually timid female dogs, and trying to grab hold of their legs whilst at the dog park. This only happens once the other dog has begun to run away, he seems to think this is an invitation to chase. He will let up with the chasing as soon as called and return to playing fetch and ignoring the other dogs, but I’m at a loss as to how to stop this behaviour in the first place. He has 2 large brothers although he is the oldest (all neutered) and his dog park best friend is an adult male Great Dane.

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
841 Dog owners recommended

Hello Kelly, It sounds like he is having fun bullying. Dogs will sometimes bully other more timid dogs. At the dog park he is probably very aroused which encourages a form of prey drive - not with the end kill as far as you have experienced but the fun of the chase and the controlling of movement. The behavior needs to not be fun for him anymore - his chasing behavior needs to be associated with something unpleasant, while his calmness around other, especially timid dogs, encouraged and calmly rewarded. I suggest hiring a trainer who has access to a large number of dogs with different temperaments and is very experienced with e-collar training. The correction needs to be associated with his behavior and not just you and not just being in the presence of another dog - but specifically his behavior by correcting at the right timing and rewarding him being calm around that same dog. A high quality remote collar can be used on vibration or a working level stimulation level (a working level is a predetermined level that is the lowest your particular dog responds to - which is different for different dogs depending on temperament and sensitivity). This shouldn't be done at the dog park because you will not have control there. This needs to be done in a controlled environment with other well trained dogs, where you and the trainer can determine the outcome and not your dog. Be sure to do your research on quality collars - do not buy a cheaply made one, they can be inconsistent and even dangerous. Ask your trainer for recommendations. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Sadie
Pit bull
12 Months
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Sadie
Pit bull
12 Months

Recently my ex dropped off his dog for a few weeks because he had to go over the road for work. we have had an issue of her chasing down small dogs such as chihuahuas in the neighborhood. Once she broke free of her collar and the second time we were working with a leash and training collar. She unhooked the leash before we even realized the dog was being walked by and ignored the training collar. I’ve taken her to dog parks in the past and have the dogs approach her because she will rush them if I don’t but always plays well. On walks if I walk her she doesn’t pull towards other dogs as long as I see the dog ahead of time and tell her ignore but I’m the only one she listens too. It’s only been a little over two weeks. At first I thought it was due to him not training her or socializing her but now I’m thinking it’s more aggressive after actually seeing it and not just being told. She will also at times growl and snap at others who try to get her to do something she doesn’t want except for me. Especially my child that is with the ex if I’m not in the room. I also found out she would poop on his bed, I have not had this issue. Part of me feels it’s due to bad training on his part. Any tips on any of this would be greatly appreciated!

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
841 Dog owners recommended

Hello Michelle, When she reaches the small dog does she attach them or just want to play? Assuming she is trying to attack the small dogs, even if just excited with larger dogs, some dogs can have a prey drive toward small dogs - it's not common but may be what's going on. If she was never socialized with small dogs while young it could also be related to that. Either way you really need a trainer to help you in person with this. In the meantime, check out the video linked below on how to reinforce a prong collar - attaching it to another collar, such as a martingale collar. You can also use a harness like Ruff Wear Webmaster Harness along with the training collar - use a small traffic leash to attach the training collar to the harness as a backup in case it breaks, or simply walk her wearing a basket muzzle. As far as behavior goes, it depends on whether the desire to go after small dogs is prey drive or a socialization issue. If prey drive, you will need to teach an avoidance - you are not going to remove prey drive but you can teach your dog to avoid the thing they are driven toward. If the desire is normal dog aggression, then a combination of building respect and trust for you so that she will let you handle situations and obey, and working on desensitizing her around small dogs - to teach her to be calm around them and not pay attention to them. The goal here is not off-leash playing with small dogs - the goal is calmness. Building respect and trust through boundaries: Place: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=omg5DVPWIWo Crate manners: https://thegooddog.net/training-videos/free-how-to-training-videos/learn-to-train-the-good-dog-way-the-crate/ Thresholds: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-w28C2g68M Heel article - The turns method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Heel Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTiKVc4ZZWo Working method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-doberman-to-listen-to-you To introduce the muzzle, first place it on the ground and sprinkle her meal kibble around it. Do this until she is comfortable eating around it. Next, when she is comfortable with it being on the floor with food, hold it up and reward her with a piece of kibble every time she touches or sniffs it in your hand. Feed her her whole meal this way. Practice this until she is comfortable touching it. Next, hold a treat inside of it through the muzzle's holes, so that she has to poke her face into it to get the treat. As she gets comfortable doing that, gradually hold the treat further down into the muzzle, so that she has to poke her face all the way into the muzzle to get the treat. Practice until she is comfortable having her face in it. Next, feed several treats in a row through the muzzle's holes while she holds her face in the muzzle for longer. Practice this until she can hold her face in it for at least ten seconds while being fed treats. Next, when she can hold his face in the muzzle for ten seconds while remaining calm, while her face is in the muzzle move the muzzle's buckles together briefly, then feed her a treat through the muzzle. Practice this until she is not bothered by the buckles moving back and forth. Next, while she is wearing the muzzle buckle it and unbuckle it briefly, then feed a treat. As she gets comfortable with this step, gradually keep the muzzle buckled for longer and longer while feeding treats through the muzzle occasionally. Next, gradually increase how long he wears the muzzle for and decrease how often you give her a treat, until she can calmly wear the muzzle for at least an hour without receiving treats more than two treats during that hour. You need to hire a trainer to help you with the aggression and you need someone who uses a lot of boundaries, positive reinforcement and fair discipline tactfully. Look for someone who is very experienced with aggression and different types of aggression - many trainers are only experienced with fear based aggression and you likely have some dominance- based or territorial aggression, or very possibly prey drive going on too, and they are treated a bit differently than fear. Aggression protocol examples - getting started: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YAE0jCL9Gbs Dog aggressive dog: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qpsEwePWEeQ Pulling: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hHwcvjWOaII More leash work - be careful with protocols that involve you being right next to the dog while training - some dogs will redirect their aggression toward whoever is closest when in an aggressive state- which could be you - a muzzle is needed in those situations, and laying the foundation of respect and trust first helps minimize that. Pet Convincer tool: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vfiDe0GNnLQ&t=20s Place command multi-dogs - more advanced desensitization - notice the slack leashes tethering the dogs to the ceiling just in case: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HedxL5Dns54 Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Question
Sam
German shepherd/mastin cross
8 Months
0 found helpful
Question
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Sam
German shepherd/mastin cross
8 Months

Sam is a rescue - he had obviously been abandoned and just turned up in our garden one day. He is growing into a big, strong boy - 36 kilos of muscle and bone! He is very sweet natured, but walking him is a nightmare. If he sees another dog, he wants to dash over to him to play. No aggression, but neither does he listen! He doesn't respond to voice commands, treats, pulls on his harness, body control … nothing. Occasionally, he is so hyper I have to let go of his lead or be pulled over. HELP

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
841 Dog owners recommended

Hello Yvonne, First, work on teaching a structured heel in a calm place, where other dogs aren't around, like a fenced in yard, culdesac, or field. You want to work on the basics, focus and getting him to follow you using the "Turns method" from the article linked below. This will take a lot of repetition and practice. Expect walks to be boring for a while - this is normal and walking in square and circles is still exercise. Heel article - The turns method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Next, once he understands what he is supposed to be doing because you practiced structured walks in calm locations, he has the skills from practicing, and his respect for you has increased, work on the following training around distractions. I suggest also finding something that does motivate him during walks - that can be a tug toy, praise, getting to move forward to something he wants to investigate, or the mental stimulation of working and focusing (many high drive dogs actually get a lot of satisfaction from learning harder things that challenge them mentally), ect...Keep what rewards him in mind so that you can also calmly show him that you appreciate when he is doing well. Heel Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTiKVc4ZZWo How to Introduce the Prong collar – plus how to connect to buckle collar with carabiner: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=23zEy-e6Khg How to walk with a Prong collar https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nVvy6fztL2Q&t=6s Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Pepper
GSD
2 Days
0 found helpful
Question
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Pepper
GSD
2 Days

My dog Pepper is one of the friendliest dogs I know. She's never fought with another dog, she never bites, she's completely tame, but when we're off leash, specifically on trails, she tends to run up on approaching dogs. Once she gets there she's all friendliness and just wants to sniff them but it freaks the other dog out and freaks out their owner since they take that as aggressive behavior (when really she just gets excited and wants to play). How do I stop her from doing the whole changing other dogs thing without removing off leash time (which she loves) and without taking away her social time (because she really is just friendly and wants to play with other dogs)? Thanks for any help. I'm getting really tired of managing irate dog owners who accuse her of being aggressive. She is such a good sweet dog and it makes me angry.

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
841 Dog owners recommended

Hello Samantha, First, understand that although your dog is friendly many other dogs are not and many owners spend a lot of time trying to get their dogs to the point where they can be around other dogs and having a strange dog run into their face can set them back - which can make a lot of owners angry - but really just scared of a fight. Any dog that is allowed off-leash needs to be under voice control completely. This means that pup needs to have an extremely solid recall and a reliable off-leash heel. With those things in place, pup should be running around within sight range - so that you can call her back to you when you see another approaching hiking. Once she is heeling beside you and others see that she is well behaved, if their dog is friendly, you can request that the dogs meet - giving her social time without causing issues for those whose dogs or people aren't ready for greetings. Check out the videos linked below on teaching an off-leash recall - which starts with a long leash and for you specifically will involve going places like the park to practice recalls around other dogs who are passing by - or you can get together with friends' and their dogs and practice the PreMack principle - allowing pup to go up to another dog only after she has come first - then greeting the other dog becomes the reward itself after checking in with you. Come and the PreMack Principle: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/train-dog-to-come-when-called/ Reel In method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-whippet-to-recall An off-leash heel is generally started just like a normal leashed heel, then as pup improves you practice the heel on a long leash so that pup is following because they are paying attention to you and not dependent on the leash - but you can use the leash to guide back when needed and prevent pup from disobeying and having inconsistent training. Once pup can heel in places like your neighborhood on the long leash, then also go places where other dogs are walking around and practice the long leash heel around other dogs - with pup learning to ignore other dogs unless told to "Say Hi". I personally prefer starting with a normal weight long training leash - like what you see online and in most set stores, then going to an extremely light weight but strong one when pup is almost ready for complete off-leash work. The light weight helps the training transfer to off-leash better since pup is less aware of a leash being on them prior to taking it off completely. Whenever pup starts not coming or heeling again well, snap the leash back on for a month and do a refresher training course to deal with any issues - the refresher shouldn't take nearly as long as the initial training but at some point most dogs will test ignoring you again and need the refresher. Heel article - The turns method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel James Penrith from Take the Lead Dog Training also has a lot of great videos on Off-leash training. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCoxuNKpmUs390K7x_rvgjcg Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Maze
Border Collie x jack Russell
2 Years
0 found helpful
Question
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Maze
Border Collie x jack Russell
2 Years

This Is maze shes a borderjack and shes 2 years old Turing 3 this year in September, as I know a border collie x jack Russell are super hypo but shes just so crazy with other dogs and she was socialized when a puppy, when we go for a walk and she sees them she freaks out she cries and pulls and trysts to get out of her collar to get to them.. I cant trust her off leash around other dogs cause if she sees them she will bolt and not listen to you calling her, and when shes greets the other dog she either gets scared of them or she just annoys them so much by jumping all over them! Please any advice

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
841 Dog owners recommended

Hello Ella, I do suggest working with a trainer in your case, and I would highly recommend using the correct tools to prevent her from slipping out of her collar. Check out the articles and videos linked below. With the help of a trainer work on these methods and commands with her. Thresholds: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-w28C2g68M Heel article - The turns method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Heel Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTiKVc4ZZWo An example of a structured walk with a reactive and aggressive dog: Reactive dog - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XY8s_MlqDNE Video 2: https://thegooddog.net/training-videos/good-dog-transformations/how-we-work-through-leash-reactivity-with-the-wild-and-crazy-ozzie-2nd-session/ Video 3: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XY8s_MlqDNE Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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NIsmo
American Staffordshire Terrier
2 Years
0 found helpful
Question
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NIsmo
American Staffordshire Terrier
2 Years

I adopted Nismo from an abusive owner at 7 months. He's always been pretty playful with other dogs at the dog park when we first had him. As he's gotten more mature he's become a lot more aggressive towards other dogs. Other dogs that seem time mind their own business he tends to leave alone, however dogs that are playful or also territorial will eventually lead to aggression after a short period of meeting. As soon as he see's another dogs while we're walking he would want to charge at them and I'm generally forced to walk other directions to avoid confrontation.

I have tried training him by introducing him to my cousins miniature schnauzer (Kylo) which he has learnt not to act aggressively towards however has no sense of boundaries and always want overwhelm Kylo and never seem to leave him alone.

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
841 Dog owners recommended

Hello Clinton, I suggest looking online to see if there is a G.R.O.W.L. class you could join within driving distance of you. A G.R.O.W.L. class is a class designed for dog aggressive or dog reactive dogs where all the dogs are intensively socializes around a number of other dogs in a structured environment, while they all wear basket muzzles for every ones safety. His response toward other dogs will need to be counter conditioned around a large number of dogs to generalize the training to other dogs in general. You also need a trainer who can show you how to earn pup's respect toward you so that he will let you lead during walks and not feel the need to challenge other dogs. Are other dogs coming up to you to great him on the walk? If so, I don't recommend allowing that as much as you can prevent it. He needs to practice other types of desensitization around dogs, like a structured heeling walk with other dogs, obedience commands in the presence of other commands, and additional things that build impulse control, calmness, and respect for you, and focus on you around other dogs. He essentially needs to learn to defer to you in the presence of another dog and to be counter conditioned emotionally - change his emotional response to another dog to something calmer than what it is now. Below are some commands you can start working on with pup to build impulse control, calmness, and respect for you. I do highly suggest also joining a GROWL class or working with a training group that has access to a lot of dogs to practice around, is very experienced with aggression and reactivity, and comes very well recommended by previous clients whose dogs dealt with aggression. Also, be aware that a dog aggressive dog can redirect that aggression toward whoever is closeby during times of frustration, so it's always a good idea to take safety measures to avoid a bite when dealing with aggression. Place: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O75dyWITP1s Crate manners: https://thegooddog.net/training-videos/free-how-to-training-videos/learn-to-train-the-good-dog-way-the-crate/ Thresholds: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-w28C2g68M Heel article - The turns method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Working and Consistency methods: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-doberman-to-listen-to-you Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Arnold
rat terrier mix
4 Years
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Question
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Arnold
rat terrier mix
4 Years

My dog does great at the dog park for the first 10-15 minutes but then becomes aggressive. He's triggered by other dogs running and playing and he will run after other dogs and growl or bark at them when he catches up to them. He doesn't bite but has body slammed other dogs before. The behavior does not look playful. We always have to cut our time at the dog park short because he always does this.

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
841 Dog owners recommended

Hello Brittany, Unfortunately, Arnold needs to stop going to the dog park completely. You can continue to have structured play dates with one or two other dogs that you know in your own fenced yards, and practice obedience between play times, to work on his impulses. You can also participate in dog walks with groups like meetup.com, or do structured dog sports, or hikes with Arnold with other dogs. If you continue going to the dog park the behavior will likely only get worse. Because of the pack environment of the dog park, the lack of structure, and how unsafe it would be to use treats or a long leash to enforce training at a dog park, you cannot safely and effectively train a dog in a standard dog park. You have to train a dog in other environments and then use your dog's current training at the park. The running of the other dogs creates arousal, and the pack mentality of the other dogs can cause dogs to act like bullies, try to control other dogs' movements, and even cause fights. It is the opposite of a calm and controlled environment, and some dogs don't do well with the lack of structure and odd behavior and emotional states of the various dogs at the park. This environment can bring out the worst in some dogs and actually cause behavior problems that were not there to show up and continue to get worse. Dog parks are not necessarily bad in general, but they are not a good place for all dogs. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Nico
Pitbull, Great Dane
1 Year
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Nico
Pitbull, Great Dane
1 Year

My dog, Nico, will charge at other dogs when we are taking a walk around the neighborhood. Sometimes I’m not strong enough to hold him back & he gets to the dog. He doesn’t aggressively attack the dog or anything I think he just wants to play but it scares me since he’s a pitbull . We have another dog that’s he’s perfectly fine with. I’ve tried everything to get him to not do that I’m so nervous around other people’s dogs I take him out for a walk when NO ONE ELSE IS OUT. Please help me I don’t know what to do, I don’t want to have to give him away because he’s apart of our family .

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
841 Dog owners recommended

Hello Megan, First, what are you using to walk him? I suggest finding something that will make it easier to manage his size, such as a gentle leader and collar combo. Second, this is a behavior I highly suggest hiring a private trainer who specializes in aggression and reactivity to help with. Since he isn't attacking the other dog when he gets to them, that will make this easier to address than a situation where he causes the other dogs harm but it is still a serious concern. Due to his size and strength I feel like you need professional help. It also needs to be determined why he is doing to a certain degree. Is he fearful and defensive, excited and overly aroused, territorial and wanting to dominate, ect..? The cause will partially determine how to train it. Some things like working on his focus, trust, and respect for you, and leash manners, will be the same no matter what is going on though. Check out Thomas from the Canine Educator on Youtube. He specializes in aggression and has some videos working with leash reactive dogs. This isn't something I suggest tackling on your own though. Look for someone who specializes in behavior issues and comes well recommended by their previous clients whose dogs have struggled with aggression or reactivity. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Lady
Podenco cross
5 Years
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Question
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Lady
Podenco cross
5 Years

Off lead, Lady chases some dogs & growls but she isn't agressive. If the other dog stands his ground she's fine but if it runs, she chases it, growling & barking. When it stops, she just sniffs it. The problem is, some owners think she's aggressive.

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
841 Dog owners recommended

Hello Liz, It sounds like Lady lacks doggie social manners. While likely not true aggressive (I can't say for sure without seeing in person though), in canine terms it is "rude" behavior and could result in a fight if the other dog isn't patient with her. She is antagonizing the other dog. She may be trying to control the other dog's movement - a herding type behavior, teasing them into playing, or chasing them away from something she considers hers - such as an area or person. First, I would work on a high level recall and Out command with her - Out means leave an area, and can be used to tell her to move away from another dog. Come: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/train-dog-to-come-when-called/ Out: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-the-out-command/ Leave It: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite Practice all of those commands. Once she knows what they mean and can do them in a calm setting, purchase a 20 to 30 foot training leash (not retractable one but long rope like one) and padded back clip harness and practice all of the commands around distractions, starting with easy distractions like a cul-de-sac and gradually moving onto harder distractions like the park as she improves. Use the long leash so that you can enforce your commands and teach her that she needs to listen, even around high distractions like other dogs. I would also work up to teaching her an Off-Leash heel, so that you can call her to yourself and have her heel past another dog she should be leaving alone, when she is with you off-leash. The general rule for her should be, leave other dogs alone unless you have been given permission to go play - which should come from you when both you and the other dog's owner feel comfortable with it. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Many thanks, I'll try your advice.

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london
German Shepherd and lab
6 Years
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london
German Shepherd and lab
6 Years

she likes to pullme and when she sees another dog she trys to drag me and i have to let go of the leash

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
841 Dog owners recommended

Hello Alana, First, has pup ever redirected aggression toward you, or attacked another dog? If so, you will need to take additional safety measures like the use of a basket muzzle also, and I would suggest hiring a professional trainer who specializes in behavior issues and aggression to work with you in person. If pup is simply excited, reactive, or being rude toward you, I suggest the following. I suggest working on the structure of your walk first. You want pup to be working during the walk - having to stay behind you, focus on you, perform commands periodically, and not have her mind on scanning the area in search of other dogs. The walk should start with her having to exit your home very calmly, performing obedience commands at the door if she isn't calm. She should wait for permission ("Okay" or "Free" or "Let's Go") before going through the door instead of bolting through if that's an issue. When you walk she should be in the heel position - with her head behind your leg. That position decreases her arousal, reduces stress because she isn't the one in charge and the one encountering things first. It prevents her from scanning for other dogs, staring dogs down or being stared down, and ignoring you behind her. It also requires her to be in a more submissive, structured, focused, calmer mindset - which has a direct effect on how aroused, stressed, and aggressive she is - it makes her feel like the responsibility is on your shoulders not hers around other dogs. Additionally, when you do pass other dogs, as soon as she starts staring them down, interrupt her. Don't tolerate challenging stares. Remind her with a gentle correction that you are leading the walk and she is not allowed to break her heel or stare another dog down. It is far easier to deal with reactivity when you interrupt a dog early in the process - before they are highly aroused and full of adrenaline and cortisol, and to keep the dog in a less aroused/calmer state to begin with. This also makes the walk more pleasant for her in the long-run. Leading the walk this way can actually boost a dog's confidence in the long run around other dogs because the dog feels like you will handle the situation so they can relax. Thresholds: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-w28C2g68M Heel article - The turns method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Heel Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTiKVc4ZZWo Reactive dog - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XY8s_MlqDNE Aggressive dog - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTiKVc4ZZWo Because she is pulling you over, I suggest using equipment that prevents that while in the training process also, such as a gentle leader or correctly fitted prong collar. Don't use a choke chair. It is less likely to be effective and can harm a dog's trachea. How to Introduce the Prong collar – plus how to connect to buckle collar with carabiner: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=23zEy-e6Khg How to walk with a Prong collar https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nVvy6fztL2Q&t=6s Outside of the walk you can work on building pup's trust and respect for you in other ways too. The following commands and exercises are also good for that: Agility/obstacles for building confidence if fearful: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=elvtxiDW6g0 Place: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=omg5DVPWIWo Crate manners: https://thegooddog.net/training-videos/free-how-to-training-videos/learn-to-train-the-good-dog-way-the-crate/ Down-Stay: https://www.thelabradorsite.com/train-your-labrador-to-lie-down-and-stay/ As well as, any tricks that challenge her mentally, require impulse control, and equal her learning new things successfully. A long down stay around distractions is a good thing to practice during walks periodically. Once pup is calmer during walks, focused on you, and behaving, at that point you can also reward with treats for staying focused on you. Just make sure you are rewarding while she has a calm, compliant attitude and not when she is frustrated, aroused, or over excited. Keep your attitude calm and confident during walks to best gain her trust and respect. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Tara
Chorkie
19 Months
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Tara
Chorkie
19 Months

Tara won’t listen to her name in an outside environment but she will inside, her hearing has been checked and is fine, but she won’t listen at all outside even a recall won’t work and she always runs to others dogs

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
841 Dog owners recommended

Hello Seth, Check out the Reel In method from the article linked below. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-whippet-to-recall I also suggest joining an outside, fenced-in-area, Intermediate Obedience class to improve overall responsiveness around outside distractions and dogs. With basic obedience a dog learns what the various commands mean and how to do them in low-distraction environments. The goal with intermediate, is to work pup up to performing those same basic commands but around all kinds of distractions and from further away. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Leia
German Shepherd
2 Years
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Leia
German Shepherd
2 Years

Hello! My dog, Leia, is a German Shepherd and Pitbull mix that is just about to turn two. She loves dog parks and looks forward to socializing with other dogs. The only problem we have is that she sometimes gets too excited and will chase another dog and sometimes nip it. I read that this may be chase aggression? Should we always call her back to us when we see her chasing another dog?

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
841 Dog owners recommended

Hello Alyssa, It sounds like pup is getting overly aroused while playing. I would practice in a private fenced yard with a dog buddy. Practice obedience during play, where pups take breaks, calm down, then are released to go play again. When pup responds and comes, reward with treats, so that being called off another dog isn't a frustrating thing for them, but something they learn to do quickly and eagerly. Call them apart to two different people to be rewarded during practice, not the same person to reward, so that the food while standing next to each other doesn't create a fight over the food. Practice in a private yard with a dog buddy and not at the dog park - that's where it's put to the test not learned, because bringing food or toys into the dog park can cause fights and isn't allowed generally. Once pup does great with the training, then use the training to give pup breaks when they are getting overly aroused during play, let them calm back down, then release them again if it's safe to do so. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Leo
Dachshund mix
2 Years
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Leo
Dachshund mix
2 Years

Hello!

My dog aggressively
chases and tries to mount (not hump) other dogs at the park only. On leash he doesn’t even react to passing dogs. He gets like seriously in the zone to chase these dogs, he barks and snarls, and the look in his eye changes. I haven’t seen him attack yet but it seems like he wants to. When I bring him home to my parents who have a large German Shepherd, Leo is very submissive to him. I do not understand why he gets that way at the park! Any insight?

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
841 Dog owners recommended

Hello Mary, The unstructured nature of a dog park tends to increase a dog's arousal due to the chasing, pack group, group arousal and excitement, and overall tension of it. Once highly aroused in that environment, chasing other dogs might be bringing up a predatory or herding chase instinct. When the dogs aren't running and the environment is calmer - pup isn't in that state and thus does fine. Honestly, it sounds like pup shouldn't go to the dog park anymore, or this continuing to happen could lead to aggression issues and problems around other dogs in general later on. It does sound like pup may have some prey or herding instinct, and would probably enjoying a canine sport like lure coursing or possibly fly ball. I would look for other means to socialize and exercise pup - such as joining a local dog walking or dog hiking group - where the pups can enjoy each other's company but stay in a calmer state doing it. You may even find that pup does alright with a calmer buddy, playing one on one, without as much chasing involved, such as in you or a friend's fenced backyard, but even that could be an issue. You may not know whether that causes problems too until you try it. Some dogs simply don't do well at a dog park - it can bring out certain characteristics that lead to behavior issues. It's nothing to be ashamed of but it does help to know what's beneficial and harmful behavior-wise for your dog, and to find an outlet that's more appropriate for that individual poop, that they can enjoy with you. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Polly
Mixed breed
2 Years
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Polly
Mixed breed
2 Years

Hi
I’ve just got a rescue dog who is gsd mix and a 2 year old. She is quite timid at home and listens. But is difficult to train. She doesn’t give much of an eye contact whilst training even if I lure her with treats. She pulls on the leash and doesn’t listen to any command. When she sees other dogs, no matter what I try, treats, calling her, turning my body around, she wouldn’t stop barking and lunging towards the dog. Please help me.

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
841 Dog owners recommended

Hello Snehal, I would go back to some basics with pup. It sounds like they likely were not socialized while young in their previous situation. Practice teaching pup to respond to their name. Say pup's name and make an interesting noise so pup looks toward you (inside where it's calm at first). When pup looks your direction, toss a treat out. You can even feed pup their meal kibble this way throughout the day so that they are working for their meals by interacting with you. Once pup improves, phase out the interesting noise and just say their name randomly, then toss the treat when they look. If pup comes over when you say their name, give three treats, one at a time. When pup is a bit more relaxed around you in general, start using pup's daily meal kibble to desensitize to touch more, in a calm environment. Gently touch an area of puppy's body while feeding a piece of food. Touch an ear and give a treat. Touch a paw and give a treat. Hold her collar and give a treat. Touch her tail gently and give a treat. Touch her belly, her other paws, her chest, shoulder, muzzle and every other area very gently and give a treat each time. Keep these times calm and fun for pup. Work on desensitizing pup to leash pressure, then teaching a formal heel in a calm location - gradually working up to more public locations with distractions. Accept a leash article: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-your-puppy-to-accept-leash Heel - follow the Turns method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Once pup is more secure around you and knows how to heel when other dogs aren't around, I suggest looking for a G.R.O.W.L. class, which is a class for dog reactive or dog aggressive dogs. The dogs all wear basket muzzles, then are intensively socialized together more quickly in a structured environment to help desensitize them to other dogs. Also, check out the article linked below for additional tips on helping pup with their timidity. https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-socialize-a-shy-dog/ Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Aleah
Labrador Retriever
4 Years
1 found helpful
Question
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Aleah
Labrador Retriever
4 Years

Aleah is a rescue dog and the vet believes she is around 4. She is very lovable and listens well at home. However, if she sees another dog she becomes very aggressive. She has pulled me over a couple times when I was walking her. She will bolt out of our yard at the dogs as well. We have a fenced in backyard for her but would like to be able to give her a little more freedom. Is there anything we can do to curtail this behavior?

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
841 Dog owners recommended

Hello Barbara, I suggest looking for a G.R.O.W.L. class in your area, which is a class for dog reactive and dog aggressive dogs, who are all socialized together in a structured environment. All of the dogs wear basket muzzles to ensure safety, and the instructor guides the process. Once classes are an option again with social distancing, see if there is one you can attend with her. It would be worth hiring a private trainer who specializes in behavior issues lie aggression to work with you in person as well; especially since many dog aggressive dogs can redirect their aggression toward whoever is closest while in a frustrated aroused state, so certain precautions may be needed to ensure you aren't bitten while training around other dogs. With that said, I suggest working on the structure of your walk. You want pup to be working during the walk - having to stay behind you, focus on you, perform commands periodically, and not have her mind on scanning the area in search of other dogs. The walk should start with her having to exit your home very calmly, performing obedience commands at the door if she isn't calm. She should wait for permission ("Okay" or "Free" or "Let's Go") before going through the door instead of bolting through if that's an issue. When you walk she should be in the heel position - with her head behind your leg. That position decreases her arousal, reduces stress because she isn't the one in charge and the one encountering things first. It prevents her from scanning for other dogs, staring dogs down or being stared down, and ignoring you behind her. It also requires her to be in a more submissive, structured, focused, calmer mindset - which has a direct effect on how aroused, stressed, and aggressive she is - it makes her feel like the responsibility is on your shoulders not hers around other dogs. Additionally, when you do pass other dogs, as soon as she starts staring them down, interrupt her. Don't tolerate challenging stares - even if she is stressed. Remind her with a gentle correction that you are leading the walk and she is not allowed to break her heel or stare another dog down. It is far easier to deal with reactivity when you interrupt a dog early in the process - before they are highly aroused and full of adrenaline and cortisol, and to keep the dog in a less aroused/calmer state to begin with. This also makes the walk more pleasant for her in the long-run. Leading the walk this way can actually boost a dog's confidence in the long run around other dogs because the dog feels like you will handle the situation so they can relax. Protect her from other dogs. If she feels nervous and someone wants to let her meet their rude, excited dog, tell the other person no thank you. A simple "She's in training" tends to work well. Be picky about who and how she meets other dogs. Avoid dogs that don't respect her space, pull their owners over to her, and generally are not listening well - those dogs are often friendly but they are rude and difficult for a nervous dog. Also, avoid greeting dogs who look very tense around your dog, who stare her down, who give warning signs like a low growl or lip lift, who look very puffed up and proud - that type greeting with a dog is likely to end in a fight since your dog doesn't know how to diffuse that situation. A stiff wag is also a bad sign. A friendly wag looks relaxed and loose with relaxed body language overall. A tense dog with a very stiff wag, especially with a tail held high is a sign of arousal and not always a good thing. Thresholds: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-w28C2g68M Heel article - The turns method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Heel Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTiKVc4ZZWo Reactive dog - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XY8s_MlqDNE Aggressive dog - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTiKVc4ZZWo Outside of the walk you can work on building pup's trust and respect for you in other ways too to help her confidence. The following commands and exercises are also good for that: Agility/obstacles for building confidence - if pup is anxious and fearful in general: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=elvtxiDW6g0 Place: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O75dyWITP1s Crate manners: https://thegooddog.net/training-videos/free-how-to-training-videos/learn-to-train-the-good-dog-way-the-crate/ Down-Stay Any tricks that challenge her mentally, require impulse control, and equal her learning new things successfully. A long down stay around distractions is also a good thing to practice during walks periodically - but while around other dogs keep pup moving in heel. After going through a G.R.O.W.L. class, to continue pup's socialization, a good way to do introductions with other dogs is to recruit friends with calm dogs and use the Passing Approach and the Walking together methods from the article linked below. After a few practice session of this, when the dogs can calmly walk side by side finally, take pups on walks together with both in a structured, focused heel. This gives both dogs something other than each other to focus on, keeps their energy calm, and helps them associate each other with the pleasant experience of a walk. Repeat this with lots of different dogs, one or two dogs at a time - you want other dogs to be associated with calmness, pleasant experiences, and boring things - not roughhousing, wrestling, nose-to-nose interactions always, or being rushed by them. https://wagwalking.com/training/greet-other-dogs Sometimes you can even find others to practice with through obedience clubs, meetup groups, or hiking groups. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Loki
German Shepherd
6 Years
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Loki
German Shepherd
6 Years

My dog is fairly good at recall and always comes back to me when at the dog park and around all dogs except for our other dog who is a Pomeranian (same age), he will chase our pom and tackle him over repeatedly until the pom starts to just run away and not listen to us, i can’t grab loki’s attention when this happens and i’m unsure what’s causing it and how to stop it as it’s only when off leash???

Darlene Stott
Darlene Stott
Dog Trainer and Groomer
104 Dog owners recommended

These 2 are a cute pair! Has Loki always done this or is it new behavior? It is hard to determine why Loki is doing this to your Pom without knowing him more about Loki, but I do suggest that you work on obedience. He does know his recall well, so it is the fact that he is ignoring you that needs to be addressed. All of the methods here work well. Try the Consistency Method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-doberman-to-listen-to-you. The Reel in Method is good:https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-whippet-to-recall. Work on Loki's other obedience commands, too. It's a whole package of good behavior that will allow Loki to refocus and listen. Practice his heeling skills when on a walk which is a good basis for staying by your side once the recall is accomplished. Look at the Turns Method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel. Good luck!

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Jack
Labrador Retriever
1 Year
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Jack
Labrador Retriever
1 Year

We just rescued jack about five months ago and when we first got him he was shy and nervous and didn’t really like other people especially other dogs, now he’s almost a whole new dog. He wants to meet people and is polite but still kinda weird with how people pet him. When it comes to other dogs he’s shown great improvement. He can be in a fenced in area with other dogs and when off leash he listens and doesn’t show any signs of aggression like when he’s on a leash. The other day we went on our normal walk around the neighborhood and one point he was off leash bc he had been doing so good with everything and then a dog came from around the corner and I didn’t see him and jack (my dog) ran up on him. The owner freaked out and jack came running back to us. There was no growling or barking but it just didn’t look good. The other dog was okay and my dog was okay it just scared me bc he hasn’t done something like that before. I was wondering if this means my dog is bad or something. Can you help? Also the website won’t let me put a 1 year and five months for his age and he’s also a lab mix with something we don’t know.

Darlene Stott
Darlene Stott
Dog Trainer and Groomer
104 Dog owners recommended

Thank you for the cute picture of Jack. It sounds as though he is doing really well. I think the fact that he ran up to another dog is a natural reaction - he was saying hello. The fact that there was no barking or personality issues shows that Jack is doing fine. I know that it is unnerving to some people to have a strange dog run up to them. I would always keep the leash on when in the neighborhood as a courtesy to others but allow Jack plenty of freedom in an off-leash dog park. All the best!

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Teddy
Shih Tzu x Bichon
2 Years
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Teddy
Shih Tzu x Bichon
2 Years

My dog is prettified of other people, if we are out for a walk he will purposely go up to other people in the park (looking very cute) and as soon as they reach out to stroke him he barks like crazy, he is also the same with dogs except really enjoys dogs attention, if he spots another dog in the park he will run after them, even if the other dog is not interested and I struggle to get him back, if I wonder over to attempt to put him on the lead he then runs away from me as if it is a game!

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
841 Dog owners recommended

Hello Natalie, First, I don't recommend letting pup off-leash until off leash training is more reliable. Check out the article linked below and work on pup's off leash reliability using a long leash and the premack principle in the locations where pup is refusing to come around people and dogs. Not only is letting pup off leash unsafe for them, unfair to people pup acts aggressive toward, and rude toward other dogs, but it actually encourages further bad behaviors to develop and will under-mind the training you will be doing to improve things. https://www.petful.com/behaviors/train-dog-to-come-when-called/ Second, practice structured obedience on leash around other people - where pup is required to and rewarded for ignoring other people that you pass, staying focused on you, and being obedient in the heel position. This helps desensitize pup to people nearby, builds respect for you - which is important for confidence and management, and puts pup in a calmer mindset around people while working, to condition the calm response to people. Turns method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Passing Approach method: https://wagwalking.com/training/greet-other-dogs When pup does well with people in a structured setting with obedience commands, you can also recruit friends to reward pup as they pass by, by tossing treats out to pup (while mostly ignoring pup still) if pup is acting calm right then - don't reward pup for tense, aggressive, or fearful responses. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Zorro
German Shepherd
10 Months
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Zorro
German Shepherd
10 Months

My dog was normal a month from now, he is becoming aggressive towards new people. Earlier he was very welcoming to new peoples but now he wants to attack them. And one more thing he dont really bite them or cause any serious harm. He just run after them, and jumps on them when they are sitting, take a weak bite.

And he chases even small children!!
Isn't it weird?

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Archie
Wire haired fox terrier
6 Months
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Archie
Wire haired fox terrier
6 Months

Our 6 month old pup chases a family collie -she was the first dog he met during the current lock down situation. They met in our garden . We spend a lot of time now with this dog and each time our pup chases the collie, trying to nip her and the collie gets abit aggressive now towards our dog-she has had enough - she is not usually aggressive. How do we stop this behaviour? He doesn’t display this behaviour towards any other dog.

Darlene Stott
Darlene Stott
Dog Trainer and Groomer
104 Dog owners recommended

Hello, there are a few things to work on with Archie. He's young, so the habit might be changeable. It will take work, consistency, and daily practice. I have to point out that I believe that dog training classes are a good way to stop the behavior while providing other benefits. Making sure that Archie is well socialized will prevent him from displaying this behavior with any dog. Take a look at the Obedience Refresher Method: https://wagwalking.com/training/stop-nipping. If you need instruction on how to obedience train Archie to get a head start on classes, look here: https://wagwalking.com/training/obedience-train-a-great-dane. Work with the Collie and Archie using the Counter Conditioning Method described here: https://wagwalking.com/training/not-attack-other-dogs. Do not permit Archie to treat the Collie this way; if he begins the behavior when you are together, tell him no with a firm voice and put him on the leash, making him lie down in a long stay position. Once he appears calm, you can release him. When he repeats the behavior, put him in the long stay again. If he has to stay like that, make it so until he learns he can no longer treat the Collie as something to chase. Take them on walks together often - Archie may look at the Collie in a new light when exercised regularly together. Make sure that Archie is well exercised (long walks!) before you get together with the Collie. Again, I stress dog training because Archie will learn needed commands and will learn to listen to your instructions, too. Good luck!

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Hugo
Golden Retriever
1 Year
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Hugo
Golden Retriever
1 Year

My dogs recall when in a field by myself and no distractions is very good but If he sees another dog or person, any distraction he will run away and not come back no matter what I try to do. I call him, persuade him with treats, toys, or even run away from him and he won't come back until I go up to him and drag him off.

Alisha Smith
Alisha S., Dog Trainer
227 Dog owners recommended

Hello! Your best bet with teaching him how to respond to you despite distractions is to set up the recall exercise in an environment that is very distracting. To do this, you will want to utilize a 50 foot leash. These can be found at any pet store and are inexpensive. You will attach the leash to his collar, distance yourself from him, call his name and give him the command to come to you. Give him once chance to come, and if he doesn't, you can start reeling him in to where you are standing. Do not go to him. Once he comes to you, ask for a sit, and give a treat. This may take a month or so of fairly consistent practice before you start to see a turn around with this behavior. But keep pushing through and practicing. He will get it.

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Zushi
pit bull terrier
2 Years
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Zushi
pit bull terrier
2 Years

My dog is a good dog and he’s very sweet and he’s does ok when we are on walks but when he sees another dog on our walks he tries to run at them . Not in an aggressive way he starts like crying/whining .

Darlene Stott
Darlene Stott
Dog Trainer and Groomer
104 Dog owners recommended

Hello, does Zushi have the opportunity to socialize with other dogs? It sounds as though he is lacking in dog friends and would really like to have some. Obedience classes are very reasonably priced, ensure a well-behaved dog, and provide the opportunity for socialization. As soon as you can, enroll Zushi in classes - it will be an amazing treat for him. In the meantime, work on obedience skills to give him a head start in class: https://wagwalking.com/training/obedience-train-a-whippet. Teaching Zushi too heel will help give him focus on walks and may lessen the desire to run at other dogs. You'll be able to handle him better. Try the Turns Method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel. Happy training and enjoy your dog!

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Rosie
F1 goldendoodle
2 Years
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Rosie
F1 goldendoodle
2 Years

My dog Rosie just turned two. I know with age she is just getting a little older, but she has stopped listening as well as she did, as well as taking off after other dogs and even people and not coming back when called.

Darlene Stott
Darlene Stott
Dog Trainer and Groomer
104 Dog owners recommended

Hello, it may be time to take Rosie back to school for an obedience refresher. This is not uncommon. Doing so is a good idea because you want to reinforce the commands she already knows and improve on them. Having a dog really is work - and the training has to be consistent and a lifetime measure. To work on her recall, I suggest the Reel In Method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-whippet-to-recall, work on this important skill 20 minutes per day. To get started on her obedience again: https://wagwalking.com/training/obedience-train-a-whippet. There are excellent tips, so read the entire guide through. Practice daily and then take Rosie back to class. She is an intelligent breed that will thrive with training and the challenge. Not everyone is comfortable around dogs, so do not let her chase after people - keep her leashed in any instance where this may occur. If you still have issues in that regard, consider calling in a trainer for some one on one instruction. Good luck!

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Luna
Bichon Frise
2 Years
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Luna
Bichon Frise
2 Years

Whenever she sees another dog she yaps very loudly and chases after them. She’s a very submissive dog with humans but as soon as she sees a dog she becomes very dominant and barks very loudly. She’s not an aggressive dog but comes off that way when near other dogs.

Alisha Smith
Alisha S., Dog Trainer
227 Dog owners recommended

Hello! Your dog needs to learn new behaviors to quell his fear. First we reduce his fear around new dogs, and then we begin adding cues such as “watch me” or “sit.” Research tells us that most leash reactivity is caused by fear, not by aggression. Dogs bark and lunge at other dogs to warn, “Go away! Go away!” Dogs fear other dogs because of genetic reasons, lack of socialization, fights when they were puppies, or any scary (to the dog) interaction with other dogs. Sometimes having low thyroid levels contributes to unwanted canine behavior. During this time, avoid any punishment for reactivity. Doing so will make her concerns even bigger. Dogs learn by making associations, and you want your dog to associate other dogs with pleasant things — never punishment. The first step is to reframe what an oncoming dog means to your dog. From a safe distance — your dog determines the distance, not you — have your leashed dog view another dog. As the new dog comes into view, drop a lot of enticing meat treats just in front of your dog’s nose. Ignore any hysterics for now, but back up and create more space if your dog is unwilling to eat. This part is hard for humans — I understand. It helps to see your dog’s behavior for what it most likely is: fear vs. disobedience. The training reinforcer MUST be a great one, such as real meat. It is critical that the appearance of the new dog causes meat to fall from the sky. When the other dog is out of your dog’s view, all treats stop. We want your dog to predict that other dogs near him means that YUMMY FOOD will appear! As you are reframing your dog’s opinion of seeing other leashed dogs, be careful where you take your dog, and be protective of what she is exposed to. One fight can create a reactive dog. Consider not walking your dog for 30 days as you reprogram her opinions of other dogs. Instead, sit on your front porch or in your garage (or somewhere out of the way if those two options aren't possible) with your dog on leash, and practice treating every time another dog comes into your dog’s line of sight. During this time, engage your dog’s mind with mind puzzles, obedience work, and fun stuff like games in the house or yard. You know you have made great progress when your dog sees another dog, and he turns his head away from the once-threatening dog and looks into your eyes, expecting a treat. Once your dog is looking at his (former) trigger and then looking expectantly up at you for a treat, you can begin to put this skill on cue. Tell your dog "watch me" every time you see another dog approaching. Your end goal is for your dog to see another dog, and remain calm, looking at you for guidance. And this will be either continuing your walk, or being allowed to interact with the other dog. Please let me know if you have additional questions. Thanks for writing in!

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Enzo
Miniature Australian Shepherd
2 Years
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Enzo
Miniature Australian Shepherd
2 Years

He runs out of the back yard and across a busy road to met and bark at dogs walking on the other side. He only does this when he is off leash. On leash he may bark but will lay back down and behave. I have tried calling him, shock collar and treats but he is not treat motivated and ignored the collar. I am new to the area and dont have friends with dogs around to do the recommended training. Any suggestions?

Darlene Stott
Darlene Stott
Dog Trainer and Groomer
104 Dog owners recommended

Hello, I would not let him in the yard without a leash. Enzo may get hit by a car, run away and get picked up by someone, or run into an aggressive dog and get injured. It's not worth the risk. Save the off-leash time for the dog park - and it's an excellent place to meet other dog owners. I am not a fan of collars. I can give you tips for trying to establish boundaries in the yard:https://wagwalking.com/training/stay-within-boundaries. Try the Reinforcing Boundaries Method and train every day for 10-20 minutes. As well, a solid recall will work wonders and can be used as a complement to the Reinforcing Boundaries. Take a look here: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-whippet-to-come-back. All of the methods are good and should give you success. However, if these methods do not work 100% of the time, I would not let Enzo outside unless he is safely on the leash. Good luck!

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Arthur
Labrador Retriever
4 Years
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Arthur
Labrador Retriever
4 Years

When Arthur was a puppy he was great on and off lead, he would never stray and would listen to all commands. He had an accident about 1.5 years ago and was hit head on by a car because he chased a cat straight out of our front door. Ever since then he has started to ignore our commands when out on walks, if he is off lead and he sees another dog he will almost completely ignore us and run off to greet the other dog, even if this is the other side of the field. He hasn't been castrated and I wonder if this is the problem? I have started taking treats out again and rewarding him when he does listen, however this doesn't always work.

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
841 Dog owners recommended

Hello Lucy, First, if you have reason to believe that the behavior is related to his accident I would speak with your vet about this, and check into things like his hearing. If there is a hearing issue, I would begin training an attention and hand signals using a remote vibration collar. I am not a vet. If the behavior is unrelated, I suggest brushing up his off-leash obedience again using a long training leash. First, start working on a reliable Come. Check out the Reel In method from the article linked below. Reel In method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-whippet-to-recall More come information: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/train-dog-to-come-when-called/ I also suggest practicing walking around places like your yard or a field with pup on a 20-40 foot training leash and changing directions frequently without saying anything. Whenever he takes notice (at first because the leash finally tugs, but later just because you moved), then toss a treat at him for looking your way or coming over to you - without calling him; this encourages him to choose to pay attention to where you are and associate your presence with good things on his own, so he will want to be with you. Practice without distractions first, then take pup to places like trails, fields, and parks, where he can be on the long leash and work up to practicing around distractions again, starting with easier distractions and progressing to the ones he struggles the most with as he improves. You want pup to want to come to you again via food and life rewards (like getting to go say hi to a friend only after he comes first - enforcing that with the long training leash), and to learn that coming isn't optional anymore - because you can consistently enforce the commands often enough that pup will develop a habit of coming consistently before you go back to off-leash again. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Charlie
Golden Retriever
2 Years
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Charlie
Golden Retriever
2 Years

I live across from the local Gaa and regularly bring my dog over for a run with my friends dog ... now he has started to run all the time when hes not allowed nearly gets knocked down

Alisha Smith
Alisha S., Dog Trainer
227 Dog owners recommended

Hello! So I am going to give you some tips on teaching recall. It is something you will have to practice to ingrain it into him so she is responsive in those settings. Recall: STAGE ONE – 'Catching' or Charging Up the 'Come' Cue Start in a distraction free environment so that your dog can focus only on you. Whenever your puppy or dog is coming to you on his own, wait until he is a couple of feet from you and then say his name and the word 'come.' When he gets to you, make a big fuss. With this exercise, your dog will learn that coming to you is a really good thing. After a while, you can lengthen the distance between you and start using the word when he is coming to you from a greater distance. Coming to you should always be rewarded, whatever the circumstance and no matter how long it took your dog to respond. Motivate your dog to come by being exciting, running away from him, waving a toy, or having delicious food for him when he gets to you. This will show him that coming back to you the best thing he can do. STAGE TWO – Solidifying the Cue Through Play Make sure you play the Back and Forth game with another person that your dog is comfortable with. Start the game in a quiet environment so it is easy for your dog to focus on you. Hold your dog back while the other person calls him excitedly. Try not to use his name or the cue word but talk excitedly to ‘gee’ him up. Do not release him until the person calls his name followed by the cue word “come.” When the cue word is given, release your dog and let him go running to the person calling. As soon as he reaches them they should praise and reward him with a game of tug or a food reward. When your dog has had his reward, have the other person hold him back as you call him and release as you say his name followed by the cue word. When he comes to you reward him with another game of tug or food reward. Repeat this game back and forth but only do a few repetitions so your dog does not get bored or too tired. Keeping it fresh means the game is always fun to play. STAGE THREE – Adding Vocal Cue With Hand Signal Inside Now your dog knows what the word “come” means you can use the cue word to call him to you while adding a hand signal to the word. Hand signals are always good to build with vocal cues so that even if your dog cannot hear you he will understand what the hand signal means. This is good if your dog is a distance away from you. Start in a quiet environment. Walk away from your dog and call his name followed by the cue word and a hand signal. Praise and reward him when he comes to you. Start increasing the distance you call him from and praise for his compliance. If he does not respond, go back to the previous distance and repeat. Only practice this cue for a few minutes so your dog does not get bored. The secret to success is to always keep it fun, exciting and fresh. When your dog recognizes the hand signal, try calling his name and using the hand signal by itself without the vocal cue. You will then be able to use a combination of vocal cue only, hand signal only and the two together. Now your dog knows what the cue word means you can start to call him from different rooms or from areas where he cannot see you. This will encourage him to respond even when you are out of sight. STAGE FOUR – Adding Vocal Cue With Hand Signal Outside Now your dog is consistently coming to you in a distraction free environment you can proof your recall cue by taking it outside. Practice the recall in your yard and then gradually build up to the point where you can use it in the park or similar environment. The ultimate test is to use the recall when your dog is engaged in a different activity. Wait for a lull in that activity and then call your dog to you. Praise his decision to comply.

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Blue
Sprocker Spaniel
3 Years
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Blue
Sprocker Spaniel
3 Years

My dog will run over to a person and bark at them and circle them he does this to other dogs too.im scared he may get attacked by another dog

Darlene Stott
Darlene Stott
Dog Trainer and Groomer
104 Dog owners recommended

Hello, I would start with working on Blue's recall every day until it is solid as a rock. This guide has excellent tips for doing that, from basic to advanced skills. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-whippet-to-come-back. As well, work on heeling when walking to keep Blue focused on you and not on the other dogs: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel. Blue will most likely thrive on the training and be a more well-rounded dog as a result of it. Also, try the Passing Approach to teach Blue how to greet dogs:https://wagwalking.com/training/greet-other-dogs and the Sit and Stay Method to gain permission to greet dogs:https://wagwalking.com/training/be-calm-around-other-dogs. Good luck!

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Prince
Poodle
2 Years
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Prince
Poodle
2 Years

My dog is very active and can be territorial we can never let him off his leash cause he’ll take off running to other dogs he also keeps growling whenever we’re walking and a dog comes too close how do I stop him from growling and lunging at other dogs ?

Alisha Smith
Alisha S., Dog Trainer
227 Dog owners recommended

Hello! Your dog needs to learn new behaviors to quell his fear. First we reduce his fear around new dogs, and then we begin adding cues such as “watch me” or “sit.” Research tells us that most leash reactivity is caused by fear, not by aggression. Dogs bark and lunge at other dogs to warn, “Go away! Go away!” Dogs fear other dogs because of genetic reasons, lack of socialization, fights when they were puppies, or any scary (to the dog) interaction with other dogs. Sometimes having low thyroid levels contributes to unwanted canine behavior. During this time, avoid any punishment for reactivity. Doing so will make her concerns even bigger. Dogs learn by making associations, and you want your dog to associate other dogs with pleasant things — never punishment. The first step is to reframe what an oncoming dog means to your dog. From a safe distance — your dog determines the distance, not you — have your leashed dog view another dog. As the new dog comes into view, drop a lot of enticing meat treats just in front of your dog’s nose. Ignore any hysterics for now, but back up and create more space if your dog is unwilling to eat. This part is hard for humans — I understand. It helps to see your dog’s behavior for what it most likely is: fear vs. disobedience. The training reinforcer MUST be a great one, such as real meat. It is critical that the appearance of the new dog causes meat to fall from the sky. When the other dog is out of your dog’s view, all treats stop. We want your dog to predict that other dogs near him means that YUMMY FOOD will appear! As you are reframing your dog’s opinion of seeing other leashed dogs, be careful where you take your dog, and be protective of what she is exposed to. One fight can create a reactive dog. Consider not walking your dog for 30 days as you reprogram her opinions of other dogs. Instead, sit on your front porch or in your garage (or somewhere out of the way if those two options aren't possible) with your dog on leash, and practice treating every time another dog comes into your dog’s line of sight. During this time, engage your dog’s mind with mind puzzles, obedience work, and fun stuff like games in the house or yard. You know you have made great progress when your dog sees another dog, and he turns his head away from the once-threatening dog and looks into your eyes, expecting a treat. Once your dog is looking at his (former) trigger and then looking expectantly up at you for a treat, you can begin to put this skill on cue. Tell your dog "watch me" every time you see another dog approaching. Your end goal is for your dog to see another dog, and remain calm, looking at you for guidance. And this will be either continuing your walk, or being allowed to interact with the other dog. Please let me know if you have additional questions. Thanks for writing in!

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Georgie
Golden Retriever
5 Years
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Georgie
Golden Retriever
5 Years

Whenever I take him on walks, he lunges at other dogs and barks, no matter what i try. He also only follows commands when there is a treat, otherwise he just doesn’t listen.

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
841 Dog owners recommended

Hello MT, For the listening, I suggest working on the methods from the article below. Including the Working method - you want pup to become motivated to listen in every day life, by having rewards be things he wants throughout his day, like a ball being tossed, dinner, pets, ect...The Consistency method is great for when the issue is a lack of respect. The Obedience method helps with clear communication as well as respect and trust building. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-doberman-to-listen-to-you I suggest working on the structure of your walk first. You want pup to be working during the walk - having to stay behind you, focus on you, perform commands periodically, and not have his mind on scanning the area in search of other dogs. The walk should start with him having to exit your home very calmly, performing obedience commands at the door if he isn't calm. He should wait for permission ("Okay" or "Free" or "Let's Go") before going through the door instead of bolting through if that's an issue. When you walk he should be in the heel position - with his head behind your leg. That position decreases his arousal, reduces stress because he isn't the one in charge and the one encountering things first. It prevents him from scanning for other dogs, staring dogs down or being stared down, and ignoring you behind him. It also requires him to be in a more submissive, structured, focused, calmer mindset - which has a direct effect on how aroused he is - it makes him feel like the responsibility is on your shoulders not his around other dogs. Additionally, when you do pass other dogs, as soon as he starts staring them down, interrupt him before they are highly aroused and full of adrenaline and cortisol, to keep pup in a less aroused/calmer state to begin with. This also makes the walk more pleasant for him in the long-run. If he is safe to meet other dogs, still be picky about which dogs he greets. Avoid nose-to-nose greetings dogs who lack manners. A simple "He's in training" tends to work well. Be picky about who and how he meets other dogs. Avoid dogs that don't respect his space, pull their owners over to her, and generally are not listening well - those dogs are often friendly but they are rude and difficult for some to meet on leash. Also, avoid greeting dogs who look very tense around your dog, who stare him down, who give warning signs like a low growl or lip lift, who look very puffed up and proud - that type greeting with a dog is likely to end in a fight since your dog doesn't know how to diffuse that situation. A stiff wag is also a bad sign. A friendly wag looks relaxed and loose with relaxed body language overall. A tense dog with a very stiff wag, especially with a tail held high is a sign of arousal and not always a good thing. Thresholds: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-w28C2g68M Heel article - The turns method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Heel Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTiKVc4ZZWo Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Isla
Labrador Retriever
15 Months
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Isla
Labrador Retriever
15 Months

A lively strong Lab. Have done loads of training with her including Gun Dog Training. Obedient to most commands. When running ahead & I blow whistle, turns on sixpence & runs back. Sees another dog & she’s gone. Often I’m told to ‘control my dog’. She’s relentless in the chase. Fine if the other dog doesn’t play - stuffs & comes away. I cannot get in top of this! Would a spray commander collar help?? At my wits end, walks are not a pleasure

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
841 Dog owners recommended

Hello Gill, In this case, I would recommend "working level" e-collar stimulation with a high quality collar such as Garmin, Dogtra, SportDog, or e-collar technologies. You can try a spray collar, but I would only recommend an unscented air spray collar and not a citronella collar - citronella tends to linger and be very harsh for a dog's sensitive nose, making it even more adverse potentially than a low level stimulation collar. I would also pair that collar with e-collar Come training though, and not just correct while running right away. This would involve using a long leash to reel pup in when they don't come while stimulating the collar, stopping the stimulation as soon as pup begins to come toward you. Check out James Penrith from TaketheLeadTraining on Youtube. He combines positive reinforcement and preliminary obedience training before using e-collars, to help pup's understand the training better, make is more fun for them, and get more consistent results with less corrections. Long-leash training to be practiced proactively in locations with other dogs around (if you haven't done already) - this is a prerequisite to adding an e-collar also. https://www.petful.com/behaviors/train-dog-to-come-when-called/ Jame's youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rtJxSXu4rfs&t=775s Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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sosa
Spanish Mastiff
1 Year
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sosa
Spanish Mastiff
1 Year

jumping on strangers and running after other dogs

Darlene Stott
Darlene Stott
Dog Trainer and Groomer
104 Dog owners recommended

Hello, you are wise to be looking after these issues now. Sosa will only get bigger and stronger. She will no doubt intimidate people as she gets bigger. I think she will benefit the best by attending dog training classes - it will socialize her and give you the tips you need to be able to manage her with people and dogs. In the meantime, start the training at home, working with Sosa every day for at least 10-15 minutes. Start with simple commands like sit and stay (good to use when she is trying to jump): https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-german-shepherd-puppy-to-sit-and-stay. This guide has excellent tips: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-pitbull-puppy-to-be-obedient. Read the entire guide through as it will be very helpful. For good behavior around other dogs: https://wagwalking.com/training/greet-other-dogs. All the best and happy training with Sosa!

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Luna
Lab Pitt mix
3 Years
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Luna
Lab Pitt mix
3 Years

Luna runs after other dogs when we are outside. She slips her collar or harness when I try to pull or move her away from the other dog. She fights the training collar and choke/training collar I have bought and has managed to slip all of them off of her and chase the other dog.

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
841 Dog owners recommended

Hello Kaitlyn, First, I recommend a harness with a third belly strap like the ruffwear webmaster harness. There are other cheaper similar harness but that harness is a good example of that third strap that prevents escaping - look for a harness with that third strap but also one that has a D ring for the leash clip in the front of the harness instead of just the back clip, to also help with pulling more. With a good harness pup can't escape out of, I recommend seeing if there is a G.R.O.W.L. class in your area, which is a class for dog reactive and dog aggressive dogs who all wear basket muzzles and are intensively socializes together in a structured environment to help with aggression and fear. For the leash reactivity, I suggest working on the structure of your walk first. You want pup to be working during the walk - having to stay behind you, focus on you, perform commands periodically, and not have her mind on scanning the area in search of other dogs. The walk should start with them having to exit your home very calmly, performing obedience commands at the door if they aren't calm. They should wait for permission ("Okay" or "Free" or "Let's Go") before going through the door instead of bolting through if that's an issue. When you walk they should be in the heel position - with their heads behind your leg. That position decreases arousal, reduces stress because they aren't the ones in charge and the ones encountering things first. It prevents them from scanning for other dogs, staring dogs down or being stared down, and ignoring you behind them. It also requires them to be in a more submissive, structured, focused, calmer mindset - which has a direct effect on how aroused, stressed, and aggressive they are - it makes them feel like the responsibility is on your shoulders not theirs around other dogs. Additionally, when you do pass other dogs, as soon as they starts staring them down, interrupt them. Don't tolerate challenging stares. Remind them with a gentle correction that you are leading the walk and they are not allowed to break heel or stare another dog down. It is far easier to deal with reactivity when you interrupt a dog early in the process - before they are highly aroused and full of adrenaline and cortisol, and to keep the dog in a less aroused/calmer state to begin with. This also makes the walk more pleasant for them in the long-run. Leading the walk this way can actually boost a dog's confidence in the long run around other dogs because the dog feels like you will handle the situation so they can relax. Once they are able to walk more calmly, you can also reward with a treat hidden in your pocket - for calmness, obedience, and ignoring the other dog and focusing on you. Only reward calm body language though - don't reward pup while they are tense or staring the other dog down - even if not lunging. Calmness and focus on you is the goal around other dogs. Thresholds: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-w28C2g68M Heel article - The turns method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Heel Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTiKVc4ZZWo Reactive dog - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XY8s_MlqDNE With the help of a professional trainer who specializes in behavior issues, you can also work up to the Passing Approach method - I would only do this under the supervision of a trainer, and possibly with pup wearing a basket muzzle, that has been introduced ahead of time using treats - so that the muzzle isn't associated with the other dogs. https://wagwalking.com/training/greet-other-dogs Be aware too that when highly aroused, aggressive dogs can redirect their aggression to whoever is closest. Always be careful to avoid a bite when working with aggression, and hire professional help or use a basket muzzle if needed, you feel overwhelmed, or things are getting worse. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Willie
Cockapo
8 Years
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Willie
Cockapo
8 Years

Runs after people and dogs and barking horrible to walk ....😔

Alisha Smith
Alisha S., Dog Trainer
227 Dog owners recommended

Hello! Here is information on teaching recall. Recall: STAGE ONE – 'Catching' or Charging Up the 'Come' Cue Start in a distraction free environment so that your dog can focus only on you. Whenever your puppy or dog is coming to you on his own, wait until he is a couple of feet from you and then say his name and the word 'come.' When he gets to you, make a big fuss. With this exercise, your dog will learn that coming to you is a really good thing. After a while, you can lengthen the distance between you and start using the word when he is coming to you from a greater distance. Coming to you should always be rewarded, whatever the circumstance and no matter how long it took your dog to respond. Motivate your dog to come by being exciting, running away from him, waving a toy, or having delicious food for him when he gets to you. This will show him that coming back to you the best thing he can do. STAGE TWO – Solidifying the Cue Through Play Make sure you play the Back and Forth game with another person that your dog is comfortable with. Start the game in a quiet environment so it is easy for your dog to focus on you. Hold your dog back while the other person calls him excitedly. Try not to use his name or the cue word but talk excitedly to ‘gee’ him up. Do not release him until the person calls his name followed by the cue word “come.” When the cue word is given, release your dog and let him go running to the person calling. As soon as he reaches them they should praise and reward him with a game of tug or a food reward. When your dog has had his reward, have the other person hold him back as you call him and release as you say his name followed by the cue word. When he comes to you reward him with another game of tug or food reward. Repeat this game back and forth but only do a few repetitions so your dog does not get bored or too tired. Keeping it fresh means the game is always fun to play. STAGE THREE – Adding Vocal Cue With Hand Signal Inside Now your dog knows what the word “come” means you can use the cue word to call him to you while adding a hand signal to the word. Hand signals are always good to build with vocal cues so that even if your dog cannot hear you he will understand what the hand signal means. This is good if your dog is a distance away from you. Start in a quiet environment. Walk away from your dog and call his name followed by the cue word and a hand signal. Praise and reward him when he comes to you. Start increasing the distance you call him from and praise for his compliance. If he does not respond, go back to the previous distance and repeat. Only practice this cue for a few minutes so your dog does not get bored. The secret to success is to always keep it fun, exciting and fresh. When your dog recognizes the hand signal, try calling his name and using the hand signal by itself without the vocal cue. You will then be able to use a combination of vocal cue only, hand signal only and the two together. Now your dog knows what the cue word means you can start to call him from different rooms or from areas where he cannot see you. This will encourage him to respond even when you are out of sight. STAGE FOUR – Adding Vocal Cue With Hand Signal Outside Now your dog is consistently coming to you in a distraction free environment you can proof your recall cue by taking it outside. Practice the recall in your yard and then gradually build up to the point where you can use it in the park or similar environment. The ultimate test is to use the recall when your dog is engaged in a different activity. Wait for a lull in that activity and then call your dog to you. Praise his decision to comply.

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Theo
Golden Retriever
7 Months
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Theo
Golden Retriever
7 Months

Hi, I am having trouble with training in general given Theo is neither treat/food/Toy oriented. He goes nutts for a ball and chasing but that is not too useful when teaching not to chase=)
I have various issues, Recall is not 100% reliable, although works fine enough as long there's no other people or dogs. (I have been training for 2.5 months since he got to our home and we do it consistently and daily, maybe i need to be more patient?)
2. There's no way he doesn't run behind other dogs/people if he is off leash: With the leash we have been practicing self control with treats and the ball, it is ok-ish until he gets to a 4 mt distance where he just loses it and i become a statue till he calms etc. BUT if he is off leash, and he engages from afar with someone else/dog, he zones out and there's NO WAY to have him either pay attention or come. He lit forgets i exist, even if i have 5 balls, Leberwurst, do the super call, dance like a monkey, jump and/or look like a clown... he won't pay attention till he's done his thing. Although i start doing the turn around, ball, recall thing way before he zones out, sometimes it just doesnt work. It kills me bc i have to either keep him on a leash or be stressed about the other dogs coming around. Again, we have been training for 2 .5 months now since he arrived to our home but i don't know whether i am expecting too much too fast??? or if we are heading to an issue here. What can i do to train him when he is not food/toy oriented but only chasing balls/sticks?

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
841 Dog owners recommended

Hello Nicole, Check out the article I have linked below. Use a long leash in your training to teach pup that they always have to come even when they don't want to, by consistently practicing with the long leash, working up to distractions, and gently but quickly reeling pup in each time they don't come. You can reward pup with a ball when they get to you, by giving a short 1-2 foot toss direction to pup - keeping a ball in a treat pouch on your side, or large pocket during walks on the long leash. I would focus a lot on the Premack principle though, which is in the article I have linked below also. At 2.5 months, I wouldn't expect off-leash reliability just yet. Practicing daily like you said you are is a great way to get there faster though, so keep that up. https://www.petful.com/behaviors/train-dog-to-come-when-called/ I would work on the long leash and premack principle come training for at least 6 months total. If pup is still unreliable practicing multiple times a week by then, you may want to consider low level e-collar training to get you fully off leash. Check out the video below and this trainer's youtube channel - he also utilizes a lot of positive reinforcement, teaching preliminary commands like the Come you are working on now, before adding the e-collar as a way to reinforce that command - so that pup fully understands how to get a reward and avoid a correction, so the training is gentler, and encourages practicing a lot to create habits of things like coming. E-collar Come info: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rtJxSXu4rfs&t=331s Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Jack
Standard Poodle
1 Year
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Jack
Standard Poodle
1 Year

Jack is a very happy, sweet and loving dog. But he has a really bad problem with listening to me around any sort of distraction.
if people come over to my apartment, he wants to jump on them and love them, but he needs to know his manners and i’m struggling very hard to get him to understand.
Also when we walk, or go outside to go potty, it is extremely difficult to keep him from pulling me around, especially when there is another person or dog outside. He will lunge at any person, dog, or really anything that moves (bike, scooter, etc.) wanting to play and talk to them. It’s very hard getting him to listen to me in that state, and i’m running out of options and feeling hopeless 😔

Darlene Stott
Darlene Stott
Dog Trainer and Groomer
104 Dog owners recommended

Hello, has Jack started obedience training classes yet? You would be surprised by the difference they can make. Consider signing him up for classes asap to learn commands like sit and stay. You and Jack will form a bond training together that will help him to be more receptive to listening. Start here: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-pitbull-puppy-to-listen and https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-dog-basic-obedience. As for pulling outside, all of the methods here are excellent and will help Jack to focus on you and not pull so much: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel. Try the Treat Lure Method and the Turns Method. Don't be discouraged - I had personality issues with my first dog and once we started obedience training, all became much better. Jack is young, clever, and highly trainable. But he is also an energetic breed who needs lots of exercise and mental stimulation (like treat toys and interactive feeders). Be prepared to work with him and he'll soon be a great dog. Good luck!

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Bentley
Staff x mastiff
6 Years
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Bentley
Staff x mastiff
6 Years

When my dog sees another dog head on he will put his hackles up, tail upright and sneak towards the other dog and then run at the other dog in to it’s personal space, he doesn’t attack the other dog although if the other dog is bigger, the way he comes across can trigger a fight as he’s a bit much. If he sees another dog across the field he will run full pace to the other dog and can’t just walk past a dog calmly without getting stiff and looking very intimidating. When he’s on the lead I feel although he feels other dogs are a threat as he doesn’t have the freedom to greet them and he’s on the lead to keep him away as something bad could happen. I’m not sure how to correct this behaviour so he doesn’t make such a big deal when he sees another dog

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
841 Dog owners recommended

Hello Esme, First, start with pup on leash - and work on this with pup on leash. If pup can pull you over or is generally hard to handle I would use a no-pull training device during walks to help you manage pup. If pup has ever shown signs of redirecting aggression toward you when they are highly aroused, I would also desensitize pup to wearing a basket muzzle before working on this, and have pup wear the basket muzzle during walks to ensure your safety. I suggest working on the structure of your walk first. You want pup to be working during the walk - having to stay behind you, focus on you, perform commands periodically, and not have his mind on scanning the area in search of other dogs. The walk should start with him having to exit your home very calmly, performing obedience commands at the door if he isn't calm. He should wait for permission ("Okay" or "Free" or "Let's Go") before going through the door instead of bolting through if that's an issue. When you walk he should be in the heel position - with his head behind your leg. That position decreases his arousal, reduces stress because he isn't the one in charge and the one encountering things first. It prevents him from scanning for other dogs, staring dogs down or being stared down, and ignoring you behind him. It also requires him to be in a more submissive, structured, focused, calmer mindset - which has a direct effect on how aroused, stressed, and aggressive he is - it makes him feel like the responsibility is on your shoulders not his around other dogs. Additionally, when you do pass other dogs, as soon as he starts staring them down, interrupt him. Don't tolerate challenging stares at other dogs. Remind him with a fair correction that you are leading the walk and he is not allowed to break his heel or stare another dog down. It is far easier to deal with reactivity when you interrupt a dog early in the process - before they are highly aroused and full of adrenaline and cortisol, and to keep the dog in a less aroused/calmer state to begin with. This also makes the walk more pleasant for him in the long-run. Leading the walk this way can actually boost a dog's confidence in the long run around other dogs because the dog feels like you will handle the situation so they can relax. Pay attention to your dog's body language also when deciding whether to allow your dog to greet another. Looking very tense, who staring another dog down, giving warning signs like a low growl or lip lift, looking very puffed up and proud - that type greeting with a dog is likely to end in a fight since those are signs of intimidation, dominance, or competing. A stiff wag is also a bad sign. A friendly wag looks relaxed and loose with relaxed body language overall. A tense dog with a very stiff wag, especially with a tail held high is a sign of arousal and not always a good thing. Thresholds: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-w28C2g68M Heel article - The turns method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Heel Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTiKVc4ZZWo Reactive dog - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XY8s_MlqDNE Aggressive dog - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTiKVc4ZZWo Outside of the walk you can work on building pup's trust and respect for you in other ways too. The following commands and exercises are also good for that: Place: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=omg5DVPWIWo Thresholds: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-w28C2g68M Working, Consistency, and Obedience methods: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-doberman-to-listen-to-you A long down stay around distractions is also a good thing to practice during walks periodically. A good way to practice introductions with other dogs is to recruit friends with calm dogs and use the Passing Approach and the Walking together methods from the article linked below. I suggest hiring a professional trainer and only practicing this with them and their well trained dogs at first. After a few practice session of this, when the dogs can calmly walk side by side finally, take pups on walks together with both in a structured, focused heel. This gives both dogs something other than each other to focus on, keeps their energy calm, and helps them associate each other with the pleasant experience of a walk. Repeat this with lots of different dogs, one or two dogs at a time - you want other dogs to be associated with calmness, pleasant experiences, and boring things - not roughhousing, wrestling, nose-to-nose interactions always, or being rushed by them. https://wagwalking.com/training/greet-other-dogs Sometimes you can even find others to practice with through obedience clubs, meetup groups, or hiking groups. When he does greet another dog nose-to-nose, give slack in the leash, relax yourself, and keep the greeting to a max of 3 seconds, then happily tell him "Let's Go" or "Heel" and start walking away, giving him a treat when he follows so that she will learn to quickly respond to that command in the future. Keeping the greeting relaxed and short can diffuse tension and give the dogs enough time to say hi before competing starts. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Charlie
Golden Retriever
6 Months
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Charlie
Golden Retriever
6 Months

We've been trying to train Charlie off leash for a while now, and when we were on a walk with him and one of our other dogs we saw another person with their dog. We tried to get him to come and sit for us so we could get him back on the leash, but when we tried to put it on him, he sprinted away toward the other person and their dog and got into an altercation with them. He is typically very friendly with humans and other dogs, and is usually more subservient to older dogs he wants to be friends with, so it was a very strange situation. How can we train him so that we know he will listen to us, come, and not think it's a game enough that we can put his collar on him?

Alisha Smith
Alisha S., Dog Trainer
227 Dog owners recommended

Hello! I am going to give you information on potty training, as well as teaching recall for running away. Recall: STAGE ONE – 'Catching' or Charging Up the 'Come' Cue Start in a distraction free environment so that your dog can focus only on you. Whenever your puppy or dog is coming to you on his own, wait until he is a couple of feet from you and then say his name and the word 'come.' When he gets to you, make a big fuss. With this exercise, your dog will learn that coming to you is a really good thing. After a while, you can lengthen the distance between you and start using the word when he is coming to you from a greater distance. Coming to you should always be rewarded, whatever the circumstance and no matter how long it took your dog to respond. Motivate your dog to come by being exciting, running away from him, waving a toy, or having delicious food for him when he gets to you. This will show him that coming back to you the best thing he can do. STAGE TWO – Solidifying the Cue Through Play Make sure you play the Back and Forth game with another person that your dog is comfortable with. Start the game in a quiet environment so it is easy for your dog to focus on you. Hold your dog back while the other person calls him excitedly. Try not to use his name or the cue word but talk excitedly to ‘gee’ him up. Do not release him until the person calls his name followed by the cue word “come.” When the cue word is given, release your dog and let him go running to the person calling. As soon as he reaches them they should praise and reward him with a game of tug or a food reward. When your dog has had his reward, have the other person hold him back as you call him and release as you say his name followed by the cue word. When he comes to you reward him with another game of tug or food reward. Repeat this game back and forth but only do a few repetitions so your dog does not get bored or too tired. Keeping it fresh means the game is always fun to play. STAGE THREE – Adding Vocal Cue With Hand Signal Inside Now your dog knows what the word “come” means you can use the cue word to call him to you while adding a hand signal to the word. Hand signals are always good to build with vocal cues so that even if your dog cannot hear you he will understand what the hand signal means. This is good if your dog is a distance away from you. Start in a quiet environment. Walk away from your dog and call his name followed by the cue word and a hand signal. Praise and reward him when he comes to you. Start increasing the distance you call him from and praise for his compliance. If he does not respond, go back to the previous distance and repeat. Only practice this cue for a few minutes so your dog does not get bored. The secret to success is to always keep it fun, exciting and fresh. When your dog recognizes the hand signal, try calling his name and using the hand signal by itself without the vocal cue. You will then be able to use a combination of vocal cue only, hand signal only and the two together. Now your dog knows what the cue word means you can start to call him from different rooms or from areas where he cannot see you. This will encourage him to respond even when you are out of sight. STAGE FOUR – Adding Vocal Cue With Hand Signal Outside Now your dog is consistently coming to you in a distraction free environment you can proof your recall cue by taking it outside. Practice the recall in your yard and then gradually build up to the point where you can use it in the park or similar environment. The ultimate test is to use the recall when your dog is engaged in a different activity. Wait for a lull in that activity and then call your dog to you. Praise his decision to comply.

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Rocco
Australian Shepherd
10 Months
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Rocco
Australian Shepherd
10 Months

Even on a leash I loose control of my dog pulling so hard I cannot keep him back.
How do I get his attention when all he is focused on is the other dog.

Darlene Stott
Darlene Stott
Dog Trainer and Groomer
104 Dog owners recommended

Hello, Rocco is a super smart breed with a busy mind and will love to train! Practice his heeling skills with the methods taught in this excellent guide: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel. All of the methods are good and will teach Rocco to focus on you as opposed to other dogs. Rocco should thrive on this activity as Australian Shepherds love to use their brains and work on tasks. Practice heeling on every walk and soon Rocco will forget all about pulling because the walk will be much more pleasant for him also. Good luck!

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Steve
Labrador Husky
6 Months
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Steve
Labrador Husky
6 Months

Hi, my puppy used to love running up to small dogs to try and play but he has gotten bigger and somewhat stopped that, but now he always finds the younger puppies at the dog park and runs to them and instantly wants to play. No greet. He is still in the biting play stage and people have been telling me he’s a husky and huskys are vocal. So he’s been making a growling sound while playing and other owners get mad at me. My question is, how do I stop him from charging/instant tackle/play with puppies. I’ve taken so much time to try and train him and still continue to. But when other people are getting mad at me because he wants to play rougher with their puppies makes me feel like I don’t know how to train my puppy.

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
841 Dog owners recommended

Hello Karly, I recommend working on the Out command with pup at home. https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-the-out-command/ Once pup knows Out well, practice on a long non-retractable training leash, working up to other distractions. When pup can obey around a variety of distractions, recruit a friend with a friendly pup who plays well with your dog to practice with you in your own fenced in yard areas (not at the dog park with other's around, because that could be dangerous to have pup leashed and using rewards around lots of dogs). Practice letting the dogs play, then calling them apart with the Out command. Reward each dog when they get to their own owner by having them perform a couple commands to earn treats, to make the break from play fun still but calmer. After the tricks and treats, allow the dogs to resume playing with a release command, like "Go Play". If the dogs won't obey when commanded Out, calmly grab the end of a drag leash they are each wearing that's been clipped to a padded back clip harness (not collar for safety reasons), and as soon as you get some space between the dogs for a second, reel both dogs in, away from each other when they aren't locked together, to enforce your command. Reward for tricks when they are with you separately. Practice this routine until each dog can respond consistently when called apart. Once pup knows the command well then you can use that command to interrupt pup when at the park, but don't use long leashes or treats at the park for safety reasons, practice with the friend in a private area until pup can obey consistently and when refreshers are needed. It will take some maturity and reminding for a few months for pup to learn how to be gentler, your Out command can serve to help pup learn the way a patient adult dog would sometimes teach a pup when they were being rude - the in your face behavior you described is essentially a dog being rude to another dog. It's generally not meant as aggression, simply that dog needing more socialization and maturity, but other dogs may respond aggressively if the dog doesn't give space. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Bowie
Golden Retreiver
9 Months
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Bowie
Golden Retreiver
9 Months

Hi, I have been taking my dog to a local park to socialize and play with other dogs unleashed. He has the habit of running off to say hello to any bystander walking or another dog being walked on leash. I have tried to correct this behavior with treats on the recall and even gone to the point of a vibration/shock collar, with marginal results. Recently, he ran across the road from this same park to greet another dog that was being walked on the other side of the road. He ignored my recall and fortunately he was safe crossing the street but this was my worst fear. Unfortunately right now I can no longer trust him at that park unleashed and curious if you have any suggestions. I am considering purchasing a more expensive shock collar as my current one seems cheap and ineffective.

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
841 Dog owners recommended

Hello Deigo, Check out the articles I have linked below. I recommend using a long training leash and practicing pup's recall in more distracting locations with the long leash on, so that when pup disobeys your command from further away, you can calmly reel them in to enforce the command. The use of a long training leash and treats is also how even an e-collar come should be taught, otherwise the dog is corrected with the e-collar but still doesn't know to come to you to get the sensation of the collar to stop, so they may run further away if you have skipped that part of the training. Going higher is never really the goal with effective e-collar training. Instead, the lowest level that the dog can feel should be paired with a long training line, and rewards, so that the consistency and repetition of training is what gains a good recall, and the collar is simply a way for you to remind pup once they have transitioned to fully off leash, that they need to come even when the leash is off. Come - especially sections on using a training leash and the premack principle: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/train-dog-to-come-when-called/ Reel In method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-whippet-to-recall e-collar training overview: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rtJxSXu4rfs&t=1089s If you do use an e-collar look for one that is of high quality, such as Dogtra, Sportdog, e-collar technologies, or garmin. You don't necessarily need a high level correction, but you would want a collar with at least 60 levels so that you can choose the lowest level pup can feel (which is tested when there are no distractions around and pup is calm) without overwhelming pup, is high quality enough that there won't be dangerous inconsistencies, and has the correct length prongs to make consistent contact through pup's longer fur, make with high quality materials. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1cl3V8vYobM&t=37s Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Bonifatsy
American Bulldog
4 Years
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Bonifatsy
American Bulldog
4 Years

I have a scary looking dog. He’s not a killer, as everyone, who’s never met him before, tends to think. I don’t blame them though. He’s friendly with most male and all females dogs. But he would collide with his own kind males and most male that are bigger/stronger than him. So I have to be cautious at all times.
Like stated in the article, he is super social. So he would charge off, across the field just to say hello and frighten life out the other owner. Shouting commands that usually work well, once he’s running - are no longer valid. In fact, it only scares the other owner more. Food and treats don’t matter. He’s never been a food orientated dog. I end up running across the field then disciplining him by looking into his eye and telling him off. He looks guilty. And for the rest of that day he’s good as gold. But next day everything resets to square 1.
Please advise what could be done. He’s a big boy and lead walks don’t let him work out or even get slightly tired.

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
841 Dog owners recommended

Hello Ole, Check out the articles I have linked below. I recommend using a long training leash and practicing pup's recall in more distracting locations with the long leash on, so that when pup disobeys your command from further away, you can calmly reel them in to enforce the command. Come - especially sections on using a training leash and the premack principle: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/train-dog-to-come-when-called/ Reel In method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-whippet-to-recall Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittende

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Archie
Mix of Shepherd & Black mouth cur
3 Years
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Archie
Mix of Shepherd & Black mouth cur
3 Years

Modify aggressive behavior going after other dogs

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
841 Dog owners recommended

Hello Chiaki, If pup is not aggressive toward people, I would see if there is a G.R.O.W.L. class in your area, which is a class for dog reactive/aggressive dogs, who wear basket muzzles and are intensively socialized together through structured activities to help with their aggression. I would also consider a trainer who specializes in behavior issues and has access to lots of well mannered dogs to practice desensitizing and counter conditioning pup to other dogs, and working up to a higher level of obedience to build pup's overall respect and trust for you and increase impulse control, to help pup listen and depend on you when in a situation where they feel uncomfortable instead of trying to control the situation themselves through their aggression. Aggression is best addressed when you can control the variables in the training, like distance to other dogs, how another dog may respond, being able to run through the same situation over and over again to desensitize, and taking any needed safety measures like leashes or basket muzzles or fences or crates between dogs. Be aware that anytime you are dealing with aggression, a dog can redirect their aggression to whoever is closest and bite when aroused, so safety should always be kept in mind. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Marli
Rottweiler
5 Years
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Marli
Rottweiler
5 Years

I'm having issues with my dog charging out into the street after other dogs. It's quite shocking to have a big slobbery mass charging at you out of nowhere not to mention embarrassing. She is generally quite good on leash but we are still working on reactivity. Leash work seems to be going well but when at home it's another story. She does not seem aggressive just really in your face which is not nice for other dogs or their owners. I'm at my wit's end with this.

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
841 Dog owners recommended

Hello Heneriata, First, is pup unleashed in your yard, escaping through a fence, or bolting through a door? If pup is door bolting or getting under/over a fence then that behavior needs to also be addressed. It sounds like pup may be off-leash in the yard. In which case, I recommend keeping pup in a fence, inside when not leashed, on leashed until the behavior improves. Not only is the behavior a risk to others, a financial liability to you, but each time pup practices it without you being able to intervene and train that behavior is likely getting worse. You will want to manage the behavior by preventing it when you aren't prepared to train, and then also set up training scenarios where you can intentionally practice pup's training in an environment where you can better control the outcome. I would start by teaching some commands to help, like Leave It, Come, Out, Quiet, and Place. Place: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O75dyWITP1s Out - which means leave the area: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-the-out-command/ Leave It method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite Quiet method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bark Use these commands to give pup instructions for how they should behavior when someone walks in the area. Reward obedience calmly. With the help of a trainer, I would practice having strangers walk past the home with their dog (like a trainer and their dog who knows how to safely do this). I would start with practicing them walking by at a distance pup notices but doesn't normally run out toward - this might be pretty far at first. Practice giving pup directions like Leave It and Place, and rewarding pup for focusing on you and ignoring the distraction. As pup improves, you would gradually decrease the distance of the walker, have other walks go past also once pup is fine with the first one and their dog, and use a longer length leash with pup on a harness, securely tethered to something like your porch, to mimic being off-leash - only moving onto the next level of difficultly in any of those areas as pup becomes truly relaxed and focused on you instead of the walkers at the current level. Watching body language is important here. You not only want pup to obey, but eventually to relax around the other walkers too and to reward the relaxed response - which shows that pup is actually learning to be more okay with the walkers and isn't as dependent on your instruction to do well when someone approaches. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Hank
English Springer Spaniel
2 Years
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Hank
English Springer Spaniel
2 Years

We live in area where he can be off leash. Generally has good recall. However today he ran aggressively towards a dog on a leash. Also has lunged the last few days at our cat and younger dog.

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
841 Dog owners recommended

Hello Linda, I would see if there is a G.R.O.W.L. class in your area, to help with the reactivity toward other dogs. Also, check out the Reel In method for Come. I would practice come on a long, 30 foot leash with pup wearing a padded back clip harness. at first, I would practice with only 10 feet of the leash, then work your way up to pup being further away on the leash. Start with less distractions, and work up to things like dogs after you have addressed the underlying aggression through something like a G.R.O.W.L. class. Reel In method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-whippet-to-recall Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Akira
Pomeranian
1 Year
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Akira
Pomeranian
1 Year

When she sees another dog or a human come within 1 or 2 yards away she takes off running and barking, chasing them until I call her back. I need her to be less aggressive towards everything.

Alisha Smith
Alisha S., Dog Trainer
227 Dog owners recommended

Hello. Barking and excitability can be a challenging behavior to turn around. Because it is so complex, I am sending you an article full of great information that can help you. https://www.petplace.com/article/dogs/pet-behavior-training/excessive-barking-in-dogs/

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Auggie
German Shepherd
2 Years
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Auggie
German Shepherd
2 Years

My dog, Auggie, will charge at other dogs when we are taking a small walk around the neighborhood. Once he runs across the street he will not act aggressive against the dog he will just sniff them. Also when we start to walk past the dog I have noticed that he stares at the other dog and will not look away. I cannot get his attention when with another dog. Auggie does fine when around other dogs off leash or at the dog park. What can I do to make him stop charging at other dogs? We also have talked to a dog trainer before and he has said that it might be a territorial thing because it is only when we go around walks in the neighborhood. And when we go on walks in a new place we have no problem. (And I don’t know if this has anything to do with the solution but he already nows “heel” he just breaks the command around other dogs.)

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
841 Dog owners recommended

Hello CC, What you are describing is leash reactivity - does fine once they meet, and is fine off leash, but acts aggressive from afar on leash. Check out the videos linked below on leash reactivity; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kOAtSxMWVlU Explanation of what's being done, in what order: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KvOqWMUt7Kc Example of training done in real time with a dog using a Pet Convincer for that dog; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vfiDe0GNnLQ Be aware that any dog in a highly aroused state can direct aggression and bite whoever is nearest to them instead (you). If you feel this could happen with your pup I suggest hiring a trainer to help and/or using a basket muzzle on him during the training until he is calmer around other dogs. Also, follow up interrupting the aroused reactivity with rewarding heeling, focus on you, and good behavior in the presence of other dogs to complete the training - but do it very calmly. When you pup is staring down other dogs, starting to scan the horizon, starting to pull, and tuning you out, those are the times to interrupt too - instead of just waiting until he explodes. Staring is a challenge to other dogs, arousing to your dog, and the beginning of the explosion. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Summer
yellow lab mix
1 Year
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Summer
yellow lab mix
1 Year

Backed out of coller and went after other dogs on walks....barking aggressively, hair on the back of her neck standing up

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
841 Dog owners recommended

Hello Barb, I would start by adjusting your collar set up to prevent future escapes. I would either use a combination approach, with something like a martingale and a training collar both attached to a split connector, like a martingale and gentle leader on a split connector, or martingale and prong with added carabiner to connect prong to martingale and clip leash to prong, to martingale is a back up if prong fails; or a padded front clip harness that's secure. If pup has every shown any form of aggression toward you, including while aroused about other dogs nearby, pup needs to be desensitized to a basket muzzle gradually at calm times, using food rewards. Muzzle introduction: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KJTucFnmAbw I do recommend hiring a professional trainer who specializes in behavior issues to help you in person. Look for someone who comes well recommended by their previous clients for work with aggression and reactivity, and who has access to well behaved dogs to practice sessions around, where you control things like distance, location, and repetition to help see improvement. The training process will involve several things most likely. It will involve assessing pup in person to see what the reactivity is stemming from - Fear? Territorial? Possessiveness? Competing? Lack of socialization? ect...To see if there is a specific underlying issue that needs to be addressed more specifically than how you would address this in general. Second, pup's trust and respect for you needs to be built, to help them listen to you, make management easier and safer for you, and so they will look to you to handle situations they are uncomfortable with instead of trying to control things themselves with aggression. This is often done by ensuring you are consistent in daily interactions with pup, providing structure and boundaries in the home, teaching and practicing obedience commands, and having pup earn what they want throughout the day by giving them a command before you do something like pet, take for a walk, feed, toss a toy, ect... This is relationship foundation work. Third, pup needs to be desensitized and counter conditioned to other dogs. This often involves a lot of repetition moving past another dog, with enough distance between them for both to stay relatively calm, practicing a lot of obedience in that setting to keep pup in a calmer, thinking mindset, rewarding the calmness, and sometimes interrupting unwanted responses early on - before they turn into full blown reactions, so pup is still in a state to learn when interrupted. As pup improves, you gradually increase the difficultly by training with a variety of other dogs, decreasing distance, ect... Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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