Does your dog hit light speed on his way out every time you open the door? Or is he a fence climber that clambers up and over to make his great escape? No matter how your pup manages to get out, it's nothing to laugh about as he could get end up being injured, killed, or captured by animal control and sent to a shelter.
There are many reasons why dogs like to "pull a Houdini" and escape as often as possible. These include boredom, loneliness, the desire to mate, being scared, becoming over-excited and many more.
But far and above, the most common reason why dogs love to run away is quite simply because they can. If there is any way he can get out the door, go over or under the fence, or bolt out of your yard, you can bet your furry friend is going to take advantage of it.
Face it, you wouldn't be too happy if you had to spend your days cooped up in a very small area. But if you could find a way to escape, you would take it in a heartbeat.
Teaching your dog not to take off at every opportunity is going to be challenging. One of the best ways to do so is to give your dog a better reason to stay home than to run away.
You should never chase after your dog as this will only make him think you are playing a game and he will just keep running. Also, never punish your dog for what is, in essence, a natural behavior or for when he gets things wrong during training.
Training your dog not to run away can help keep him in the yard, keep him next to you in the park, or close to you on walks. But most importantly, it could save his life.
To get started, you don't need very much in the way of supplies. You simply need a package of your dog's favorite treats, plenty of time and patience, and a strong desire to succeed. Depending on the training method you choose, you may need a long-line leash to help keep your pup under control should he decide to try running away during training.
Be prepared to work on his training in three sessions of five to ten minutes at a time. This will help work within your pup's attention span. If you go much longer, you will lose his attention and any efforts you put into training are going to be wasted. Try to find a quiet area to work in or a quiet spot in your yard for his training to avoid any potential distractions and speed the training process.
He is always trying to run away and find a cat or chicken to “play” with we find him in a field with a dead cat in his mouth we have tried to train him but nothing works we live in the country so we have no fence and lots of land around us our other dog Lucy 4 years old is able to go out side play without a leash while Becker has to be on a leash or line they get along so when or if Becker runs off Lucy comes with him she comes back when she is thirsty and or hungry we have had times we couldn’t find him for 3 days we had food on our porch for him but we got him 5 miles away from our house we scared he will get hurt
Hello Bart, Check out James Penrith from TaketheLeadDogTraining. He has a Youtube channel. He works with dogs that chase and sometimes will kill livestock. To stop the killing you would need to pursue training like that, creating a strong avoidance of all cats. Whether this is doable will depend on your level of dedication, willingness to learn, and how large the space he is in is. If he is in tight quarters with the cats, like in a house, then the temptation will likely be too great, and he will either resort to killing them or will be in a constant state of stress trying to avoid them. If the cats are outside and he has plenty of room to go somewhere that they are not located to avoid them, then the training is feasible. Day 1. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lgNbWCK9lFc Day 2. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kpf5Bn-MNko&t=14s Day 3. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xj3nMvvHhwQ Day 4. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VxrGQ-AZylY I also suggest working on a reliable recall with both dogs. Start by teaching Come using the method found in the articles linked below: Reel In method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-whippet-to-recall E-collar Come info: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rtJxSXu4rfs&t=331s Another activity you can practice is walking around places like your yard or a field with pup on a long 30'-40' training leash and changing directions frequently without saying anything. Whenever he takes notice (at first because the leash finally tugs, but later just because you moved), then toss a treat at him for looking your way or coming over to you - without calling him; this encourages him to choose to pay attention to where you are and associate your presence with good things on his own, so he will want to be with you. Ultimately, you will need some type of fence or barrier to stop the running off completely, but working on come, increasing pup wanting to stay close to you with following, and decreasing the desire to find animals to kill can all help. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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Will not come when called just sits then when i get to her she runs of
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I have a 6 and a half month old pit bull mix and we got him free from breeders at only 3 weeks, he is my baby and is always by my side when we’re in the house, and when we go to play in our field, but when it’s time to come inside because we are all tired he will just sit in the middle of the field and taunt me while I call him. We live next to a busy road and I don’t want him to get run over, and he weighs 65 lbs of pure muscle, so I can’t always catch him, how do I get him to come into the house when I do???
Hello Alyssa, Practice the reel in method from the article linked below. Once he knows the basics of what Come means from practicing that, when you play with him in the yard, keep a long leash on him during play (just let it drag as long as you are there to supervise and the area is safe). When you are ready to go inside, go over to the end of the leash and casually pick it up, then call him saying something like "Inside" and if he doesn't come, reel him in with the long leash. Practicing Come and Inside with the long leash teaches him he needs to obey those commands even when he doesn't feel like it, using Inside instead of Come to get him inside, keep Come a more fun command - so he will be more likely to listen to it in emergencies. When he obeys without having to be reeled in, give a treat when he gets to the door or comes to you. Reel In method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-whippet-to-recall Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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What do you do if your dog runs away when he gets out and won’t come to you at all to be rewarded for the behavior?
Hello Sarah, In an emergency situation excitedly call your dogs name, wave your arms, make fun noises, and run AWAY from your dog so that they will chase you. When they get to you, feed a really fun treat while you calmly slip your fingers under their collar. This should work a few times but eventually your dog will catch on, so you really need to practice the following as well: Most importantly, work on Come and door dashing. Check out the article linked below and the Reel In method for teaching Come. Once your dog has learned what Come means, practice it on a long leash in your house with your door open, and in your yard, and in your neighborhood, where you dog tends to escape to. Reel In method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-whippet-to-recall Also, practice not dashing through doors. Use a long leash to attach your dog to something secure inside the home, like a stairs banister. Practice opening the door and closing it in your dogs face (you aren't trying to hit them just surprise them) whenever they try to go through without being told "Okay" or "Free" or some similar word you choose. If they slip past you, the long leash will ensure their safety and prevent them from thinking they got away with it. When they can stay inside while the door is open, then practice going outside without them while the door is open. If they try to follow you without being told to, put your hand out like a stop sign and quickly run toward them until they back up into the house again. If they stay inside with the door open, praise them and toss treats inside for them as a reward. Once they can stay inside while you are in the yard and the door is open, have a friend walk down your sidewalk and practice with that distraction too. Finally, have a friend walk their dog down your street and practice around that as well. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
Thank you for the advice and sorry for the bad spelling. This will do alot to keep him safe.❤💜
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I have the hardest time taking my dog outside. I take her to a park with an enclosure because she won't stay by my side and my biggest fear is her getting hit by a car or something because when she's outside nothing else matters, and I don't exist. (Unlike inside, she responds to all commands very quickly and efficiently). I know quite a few people that can just walk outside and their dog follows them, why doesn't my dog? LOL! When she was a pup we lived in an apartment right in front of a super busy intersection so we could never practice being off leash when we would take her to the bathroom, but I spent hours and hours per day just teaching her to listen to commands. I don't know what to do anymore, I feel so bad having her on a leash all the time and she always is pulling so hard against me. Please give me some advice.
Thanks in advance.
Hello Aly, I suggest joining an intermediate obedience class. A basic obedience class teaching the meaning of commands in calm environments, like you have done. An Intermediate obedience class works on those commands in distracting environments, around things like dogs, people, and smells. A good intermediate obedience class will provide an environment to do that with her. Check out the Reel In method from the article linked below. Once a dog understands what Come means, a long leash is used to enforce the command, to teach the dog that they have to Come around distractions, even when they don't want to - since there are times when she doesn't want to come. Reel In method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-whippet-to-recall Since she is pulling on the leash still, I suggest changing the way you walk her. Check out the video and article on heeling linked below. Follow the Turns method from the article: Heel article - The turns method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Heel Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTiKVc4ZZWo Finally, work on teaching her to automatically check in. On a long leash practice walking around in open areas like the fenced park you take her to (this will be easier once she walks better on a leash). Whenever she comes up to you without being told to, praise and give her a treat. This is an optional thing for her - you are simply trying to convince her that it is worth her while to occasionally check in with you. The more of a habit this automatic checking in becomes, the better she is likely to pay attention to you and keep track of where you are. Husky's tend to be very independent and were bred to pull and run. Some breeds naturally stay with their owners because they were breed to keep a close eye on their masters for the sake of their job. That characteristic can make off leash training them a lot easier. Since you don't have that natural tendency with her, you will honestly have to work more to gain off leash reliability and it won't look the same as some other people's training - that 's alright. That doesn't mean anything is wrong. It simply means that you have different dogs from each other and with each breed comes unique gifts and unique challenges. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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We got Honey from a shelter about 3 months ago. The shelter said that she had run away from her previous owner andtheyyy couldnt get ahold of them so they put her up for adoption. Ever since we got her, we have to hold her down when the door opens or she'll bolt. I live close to a very busy street with cars going up to 50 or 60 mph and im scared she will take off and get hit. She knows sit and stay, but if shes not on a leash, she will bolt. How do i prevent this from happening? I use a clicker for my training method. And ive been working on her staying since we got her. I just feel like im not getting anywhere.
Hello Terra, First, start working on a reliable Come. Check out the Reel In method from the article linked below. The Reel In method is sufficient for most dogs but some dogs do need to be e-collar trained afterward as well to teach reliability around high distractions also, but either way the foundation of Come and practicing the Reel In method on a long leash is needed first. Reel In method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-whippet-to-recall E-collar Come info: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rtJxSXu4rfs&t=331s While working on Come also work on the door bolting itself. Attach a thirty or fifty foot leash to a padded back clip harness that he can't slip out of. Attach the other end of the leash to something sturdy like a stairway banister (the leash is a safety measure). With the leash slack and only there "just in case", act like you are going out the door. Start to open the door and whenever pup tries to go toward it quickly close it. Your goal isn't to hit him but he may get a slight bump if he is especially pushy. Practice opening and closing the door until you can open it and he will wait until it is open further. When he is waiting a bit, then get between him and the door and play goalie with the opening. Opening the door wide enough for you to get through, then whenever pup tries to get through firmly but calmly take several steps toward him to make him back up. By doing this you are communicating that you own that space and asking for his respect. Don't worry about bumping into him a bit if he won't move out of the way - your attitude needs to mean business without being angry at all. Once you can open the door and he will stay back and not try to rush through, then you can click and toss a treat. You will gradually practice opening the door more and more and blocking him from getting through and walking toward him to make him back up and wait. Take steps toward him until he is at least two feet from the door AND two feet away from you - those two distances often equal him giving you respect (and not simply waiting to get past you when you move), and waiting at the door (instead of trying to bolt). It will feel a lot like you are a soccer goalie, having to be quick and focused. When you can open the door completely and he will wait, take a step through the doorway. If he tries to follow, rush toward him, making him backup again quickly. This serves as a natural consequence and encourages him to stay back. If he waits patiently, then click and toss a treat as his paws. Practice at that distance until he will stay back. As he improves, take more and more steps, moving outside, onto your porch and into your yard eventually. Be ready to quickly rush toward him as soon as you see him start to move, to keep him from getting outside (this is why you back the long leash on him, just in case he gets past you, but for training purposes the goal is to keep him from getting out so he isn't rewarded for bolting). When he will stay inside while you stand in the yard, then recruit others to be distractions outside. Expect to stay a bit closer to him when you first add a hard distraction - like another dog walking past, a walker, kids playing in the yard, balls being tossed. Imagine what types of things he may one day see outside and choose distractions that are at least that difficult to practice this around. Expect to practice this as often as you can, along with Come for several weeks, not just a couple of sessions, until you get to where he is completely reliable with distractions like dogs and kids in your yard and the door completely open. A final activity you can practice is walking around places like your yard or a field and changing directions frequently without saying anything. Whenever he takes notice (at first because the leash finally tugs, but later just because you moved), then toss a treat at him for looking your way or coming over to you - without calling him; this encourages him to choose to pay attention to where you are and associate your presence with good things on his own, so he will want to be with you. The combination of practicing door manners, Come, and willing following works best. For many dogs practicing door manners with the long leash the was I described is sufficient but some dogs also need e-collar training not to bolt through doors to gain reliably. The training is done the same way with a long leash, but every time the dog crosses the thresh hold or tries to bolt, while you are rushing toward them to get them back you also stimulate the collar to give a well timed correction. In that scenario you would also use clicker training and rewards for staying inside to teach him what NOT to do (rush outside) and what he SHOULD do instead (stay inside). Anytime you want him to go outside with you, give him a command at the doorway that means it is okay to exit, like "Okay", "Free" "Outside", "Heel", or "Let's Go". Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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I have this dog, his name is Milo, and he was abused and neglected in his past. He's sometimes scared of sudden movements and he rarely lets us pet him, he always drops on his paws.
Recently, Milo ran away. He was gone for 3 hours. Yes, we found him but we're scared if he runs away again. My daughters attach him to a long leash and let him roam our front yard. But my husband, he doesn't do that. He always leaves the entrance open which is a perfect opportunity for Milo to make a run for it.
I am afraid if something will happen to Milo. The first thing I want for him is to be safe and live a good life in a cozy home and not in the cold, crazy wild.
Any tips to help? Thank you.
Hello Katie, First, I would consider purchasing a device like this one for him in case he runs again - a dog GPS collar. https://www.thepawtracker.com/blogs/the-pet-tracker-blog-by-the-paw-tracker/84621315-top-13-gps-pet-trackers-dog-and-cat-cell-phones-best-of-2016-reviewed Second, start working on a reliable Come. Check out the Reel In method from the article linked below, and the Premack principle from the second article linked below after the Reel In method is completed for added reliability. Reel In method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-whippet-to-recall More Come info: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/train-dog-to-come-when-called/ While working on Come also work on the door bolting itself. Attach a thirty or fifty foot leash to a padded back clip harness that he can't slip out of. Attach the other end of the leash to something sturdy like a stairway banister (the leash is a safety measure). With the leash slack and only there "just in case", act like you are going out the door. Start to open the door and whenever pup tries to go toward it quickly close it. Your goal isn't to hit him with the door but he may get a slight bump if he is especially pushy. Practice opening and closing the door until you can open it and he will wait until it is open further. When he is waiting a bit, then get between him and the door and play goalie with the opening. Opening the door wide enough for you to get through, then whenever pup tries to get through calmly take several steps toward him to make him back up. By doing this you are communicating that you own that space and asking for his respect of it. Once you can open the door and he will stay back and not try to rush through, then you can click a clicker or praise, and toss a treat. You will gradually practice opening the door more and more and blocking him from getting through and walking toward him to make him back up and wait. Take steps toward him until he is at least two feet from the door AND two feet away from you - those two distances often equal him giving you respect (and not simply waiting to get past you when you move), and waiting at the door (instead of trying to bolt). It will feel a lot like you are a soccer goalie, having to be quick and focused. When you can open the door completely and he will wait, take a step through the doorway. If he tries to follow, rush toward him, making him backup again quickly. This serves as a natural consequence and encourages him to stay back. If he waits patiently, then click and toss a treat at his paws. Practice at that distance until he will stay back. As he improves, take more and more steps, moving outside, onto your porch and into your yard eventually. Be ready to quickly rush toward him as soon as you see him start to move, to keep him from getting outside (this is why you have the long leash on him, just in case he gets past you, but for training purposes the goal is to keep him from getting out so he isn't rewarded for bolting). When he will stay inside while you stand in the yard, then recruit others to be distractions outside. Expect to stay a bit closer to him when you first add a hard distraction - like another dog walking past, a walker, kids playing in the yard, balls being tossed. Imagine what types of things he may one day see outside and choose distractions that are at least that difficult to practice this around. Expect to practice this as often as you can, along with Come for several weeks or months with him being a bit timid, not just a couple of sessions, until you get to where he is completely reliable with distractions like dogs and kids in your yard and the door completely open. A final activity you can practice is walking around places like your yard or a field with him on a long leash and changing directions frequently without saying anything. Whenever he takes notice (at first because the leash finally tugs, but later just because you moved), then toss a treat at him for looking your way or coming over to you - without calling him; this encourages him to choose to pay attention to where you are and associate your presence with good things on his own, so he will want to be with you. The combination of practicing door manners, Come, and willing following works best together. Anytime you want him to go outside with you on leash, give him a command at the doorway that means it is okay to exit, like "Okay", "Free" "Outside", "Heel", or "Let's Go" so that he learns he can go outside when given permission BUT he must wait for permission whether on leash or not (which should always be on leash right now for him - the off-leash training will be a precautionary while he is still timid and tends to bolt). Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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I have a pit mix named Serina who seems to run off because she's more interested in what's beyond our property (wooded area) then being home. She runs off by going under the fence, and every time we fix the fence she makes a new area in the fence to be able to runn off. We also have a 10 month old begal mix that will run off and follow her. If she is not with him he comes back when you call for him, but if the two are together they both ignore me and are gone for hours or days sometimes. How can I stop her (serina) from running off and not having to keep her on a chain in a fenced in yard?
Hello Christine, I suggest looking into installing an electric in-ground fence. Bury the electric fence two feet inside your physical fence to discourage her from even approaching the physical fence in the first place. Follow the electric fence training instructions that it should come with and spend time walking her around the yard telling her "Out" when she tries to approach the physical fence (and thus starts to cross over the electric one). Reward her for moving away from the fence with praise and treats, and she should be automatically corrected by the corresponding collar if she doesn't move away. Go ahead and install the electric fence flags at first along the electric fence boundary, to help her learn how far away from the physical fence she needs to stay - until she has fully learned not to approach the physical fence. Do not remove your physical fence also. I only recommend using the electric fence in combination with the physical fence - an electric fence alone won't be secure enough. You need both. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
Forgot to add. We have tried the wireless fence and she just stays on the porch and wont use the bathroom with it on.
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hello I have been having a problem with my 6 year old pug whom I've had since he was 6 weeks old. I was gone 6 months last year working and left him at my parents house where he has always lived. My mom started taking him on road walks and he started occasionally running away to our neighbor friends house. Our theory was he thought I was there(I used to house sit there with him.) I have been back five months and he would still occasionally run to their house when I wasn't home. But the past 2 weeks he has been running there almost everyday. even if I am home!! I can hardly believe it. They put him in their screened porch when he arrives so I have to drive to get him. Should I discipline him when I pick him up? will he realize it is for running away? How do I stop him he has always been free range it breaks my heart to stick him in an electric fence.He is trained to come and does most of the time but sometimes he will just start walking near the edge of the yard, I'll yell his name and he looks back at me then bolts. Like he is purposefully disobeying me. He does get daily exercise, obviously he could use more but I don't see my solution being walking him over an hour every day. Could he be getting dementia, I don't understand why he is running away more now than he ever has. Does he think it is a game. Some discipline training I use is holding him like a baby(a control thing to show dominance) and ignoring him putting him in my room? Are these good ideas? if so how long should I ignore him ? Also since he was a pup he would occasionally run to out next door neighbors through the woods but would come back within 10 minutes of getting called. He would not get on the road either just stay in woods. The house he is running to is about five houses down and he goes via the road. Have the road walks led him to this discovery? Should we stop walking him on the road? This dog is everything to me and I hate the idea of confining him to a much smaller section of our yard than he has been used to the past 6 years!! Wouldn't that confuse him? My dad purchased an expensive electric fence a couple years ago but I sob everytime I think about using it. Mainly because of how restrictive it is of his yard roaming abilities. (we have a large back and front yard that he loves to explore)PLease help me Your wisdom is much appreciated!!
Hello Laura, First, disciplining him later wouldn't be effective - discipline has to happen right when a dog does something they understand isn't allowed, not after the fact. Dogs live very in the moment. He might simply like the neighbors - it could be the smells, food he was given there in the past, their attention, a new scenery, ect... When you call him and he bolts he may be playing keep away - thinking this is a fun game and knowing that if you can't him he will have to stay home where it's less exciting. First, start with teaching a reliable come on a long leash - you need a way to enforce commands when you give them; that means less freedom temporarily as you work toward increasing freedom again as his trustworthiness increases with training. If you are inconsistent with this it won't work though. Check out the articles linked below and the Reel In method and PreMack Principle for teaching come using a 30 foot leash. Come with long leash and PreMack Principle; https://www.petful.com/behaviors/train-dog-to-come-when-called/ Reel in method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-whippet-to-recall I also suggest encouraging automatic following and attention. Walk around in a spacious area with pup while pup is on the 30 foot leash. don't give pup any commands but periodically walk away from pup and let the leash give them a tug if they don't catch up. When they turn towards you or come over to you without being told to - offer a treat and praise, then let pup wander a few feet away again. Practice this until pup begins checking in and staying with you regularly - in hopes of a treat. Finally, you may want to consider hiring a trainer to do additional training with a remote training collar on low level stimulation. Check out the trainer from the videos below for more information on how that should be done in a fair, effective, and more gentle way for dog's who are normally off-leash. Basics of e-collar recall: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rtJxSXu4rfs&t=40s Vibration: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tBhPWzr_4PU https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1k5j3FCtTnU Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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My family and I are animal lovers and after our last dog passed away we got a puppy. We knew it would test our patience because our previous dog was well behaved, never ran away, destroyed the house, or constantly barked. I wasn't worried because I was a senior in high school and figured I would have all winter, spring, and summer to get her into shape before I left for college. This is where the problem comes in with our new young pup. We got her from an Amish farm and began training her since. However, she is extremely high strung, and lacks an attention span, but craves our attention. We take her for daily walks and play with her by throwing her favorite ball multiple times a day. I should mention that even with a harness on, she leaves us needing a shoulder and knee replacement after 2 minutes. She constantly pulls and no matter what will not slow down. I have worked at a wildlife park for 5 years now and taken many baby animals for walks around the park such as bison, eland, camels, llamas, and much more, and unfortunately I have to say the wild animals walk better than my dog does. When we take her outside to go to the bathroom we are forced to use a lead because she takes off either a. into the woods or b. towards a highway, both of which aren't good options, besides the fact she tries to chase every car and bite its tires. Our last dog never left our yard in her 11 years with us. When we are inside I can't talk to my mom standing beside me, or my friend on the phone without her barking, and I don't think we have had a quiet dinner since we got her. We know she is still young and high strung, but the constant barking no matter how much we play with her grows tiresome. I was hoping that when I came back home from college her behavior would've changed, but I wasn't that lucky. Looking for some advice, thanks Kate.
Hello Katelyn, First, for the barking, I suggest combining a few things in your case. You need a way to communicate with him so I suggest teaching the Quiet command from the Quiet method in the article I have linked below - don't expect this alone to work but it will be part of the puzzle for what I will suggest next. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bark Next, once pup understands what Quiet means you will choose an interrupter -such as a Pet Convincer. A Pet Convincer is a small canister of pressurized, unscented air that you can spray a quick puff of at the dog's side to surprise them enough to help them calm back down. (Don't use citronella and avoid spraying in the face!). In situations where you know pup will bark or is already barking (catch them before they bark if you can), command "Quiet". If they obey, reward with a treat and very calm praise. If they bark anyway or continue to bark, say "Ah Ah" firmly but calmly and give a brief correction. Repeat the correction each time they bark until you get a brief pause in the barking. When they pause, praise and reward then. The combination of communication, correction, and rewarding - with the "Ah Ah" and praise to mark their good and bad behavior with the right timing, is very important. Most bark training only gives part of that equation. Once pup is calmer in general after the initial training, practice exposing him a lot to the things that trigger the barking normally (make a list - even if it's long). Whenever he DOESN'T bark around something that he normally would have, such as you talking to your mom outside, calmly praise and reward him to continue the desensitization process. For the pulling, I suggest working on the structure of your walk first. You want pup to be working during the walk - having to stay behind you, focus on you, perform commands periodically, and not have his mind on scanning the area in search of other dogs. The walk should start with him having to exit your home very calmly, performing obedience commands at the door if he isn't calm. He should wait for permission ("Okay" or "Free" or "Let's Go") before going through the door instead of bolting through if that's an issue. When you walk he should be in the heel position - with his head behind your leg. That position decreases his arousal, reduces stress because he isn't the one in charge and the one encountering things first. It prevents him from scanning for other dogs, staring dogs down or being stared down, and ignoring you behind him. It also requires him to be in a more submissive, structured, focused, calmer mindset - which has a direct effect on how aroused, stressed, and aggressive he is - it makes him feel like the responsibility is on your shoulders not his around other dogs. Additionally, when you do pass other dogs/cars/squirrels or things he pulls most toward, as soon as he starts fixating on it, interrupt him. Remind him with a fair correction that you are leading the walk and he is not allowed to break his heel or stare that thing dog down. It is far easier to deal with reactivity when you interrupt a dog early in the process - before they are highly aroused and full of adrenaline and cortisol, and to keep the dog in a less aroused/calmer state to begin with. This also makes the walk more pleasant for him in the long-run. Reward him for staying focused on you and for calm body language during the walk - don't reward while he is in an aroused/ over-stimulated state. Thresholds: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-w28C2g68M Heel article - The turns method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Heel Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTiKVc4ZZWo Reactive dog examples of interrupting fixating: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XY8s_MlqDNE Aggressive dog - examples of interrupting: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTiKVc4ZZWo Hyperactive, rude behavior, interruptions and structured obedience: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EcwvUOf5oOg Work on teaching pup commands that increase self-control. Do this regularly as a way to exercise pup's entire being. Regular training that requires a dog to focus can actually wear a dog out more than physical exercise alone. It also gets the right type of chemicals flowing in a dog's body and brain to facilitate more calmness, helps the dog learn respect for you in a gentle way, and increases skills like impulse control so that pup can calm back down. Below are some good commands to start with, in addition to the ones already mentioned like Heel - to also give you options for managing pup's behavior indoors through direction. Place - go to Place: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O75dyWITP1s Out - which means leave the area: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-the-out-command/ Leave It method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite Quiet method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bark Down-Stay: https://www.thelabradorsite.com/train-your-labrador-to-lie-down-and-stay/ Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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Tobi has quite a few bad behaviors that I can’t seem to get a handle on. The worst is definitely that he runs away as soon as the front door opens. I live next to a highway and there are coyotes around at night so I worry about him getting hurt. When he does run away the best chance we have at getting him to come back is starting the car and yelling after him, “Let’s go for a ride” because he loves car rides. He’s come back home on his own after running away, but he’s always dirty and once ate something that made him very ill the next day. Also, when he runs away he has a tendency to find other dogs. He chased a German Shepard down the street and also became aggressive towards a smaller dog after it barked at him for being in its yard. It’s hard to socialize him to improve that aspect of his bad behavior because he “screams” whenever he sees other dogs or people or animals. We have another dog that he gets along with fine but he doesn’t know how to behave outside of his home. The only problem we have at home is that he eats out of the garbage can and steals food off of the counter but I’m less worried about that currently because he doesn’t run risks doing that. Surprisingly, he learns tricks very easily so I know he isn’t dumb, just hard headed...
Thank you for the question and photo of Tobi. I think that it is essential for Tobi's safety that you do not open the door at any time unless he is on a leash. This will keep him from getting hurt, protect from a run-in with a coyote, and prevent a fight with another dog - all strong possibilities from what you say. Tobi will benefit from obedience classes. He has lots of energy and needs an outlet. Can the join a flyball or agility club once he has basic training? He needs to be socialized and quickly, otherwise he will be a big strong dog who can potentially cause trouble with dogs in the neighborhood if he is not given the chance to learn how to get along with other dogs. Look into obedience (and if you have to, get private training first). He'll learn how to listen and be a happier dog. Here are a few guides on starting training at home. https://wagwalking.com/training/not-run-away-from-home https://wagwalking.com/training/to-be-obedient https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-german-shepherd-puppy-to-sit-and-stay https://wagwalking.com/training/greet-other-dogs Good luck!
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Aspen is a good dog whe he is in the house. Today my sister left the garage open and he ran out .whe had to chase him but we had treats so we were able to get him. But now my brother left the door open and he ran out again in to the street and this time the treats did not work he new what we were going to do i had to run and get him im happy to say aspen is so friendly he went up to a lady and she disrespected him so i could grab him ....can u plz help me im afaid he i wont be that lucky next time
Hello Jesseca, Purchase a thirty-foot leash and practice the Reel-In method from the article linked below. Reel In method for teaching Come: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-whippet-to-recall Using the long leash, also walk around outside in an open area like a cul-de-sac and practice his Come and reward him when he comes. Whenever he comes without being called also or chooses to stay beside you instead of get further away, give him a treat too - you are also rewarding him for choosing to come on his own so that he learns to want to be close to you when he has the option of exploring. Practice this on a lightweight 30'-50' foot leash to keep him safe. Make sure he cannot slip out of his collar or have him wear a harness that's fitted correctly. Finally, work on him not bolting out doors. Attach the long leash to him and tie it to something secure right inside the door, like a stairway banister, so that he thinks he can get out the door but the leash will stop him from getting too far if he goes through the door. With the leash in place for safety, stand in front of the door and practice opening and closing the door. Whenever he tries to rush out, quickly close the door again (careful not to let him get caught in the door). Use your body to then get in front of him, between him and the door, and walk toward him until he backs several feet away from the door and a couple of feet away from you - you are telling him with your body language to give the door and you some space. Practice opening and closing the door and walking toward him to get him to back up from the door; do this until you can open the door all the way and he will wait. When he will wait, toss him a treat for waiting. He is not allowed to go through the door without being told "Free" though. Work up to stepping onto your porch and going further and further outside as he gets better at staying inside with the door open. Return to him and toss him a treat when he stays inside and watches you walk outside. When he tries to follow you outside with the door open, tell him "Ah Ah" and quickly rush toward him with your arms out like you are blocking him to get him to go back to where he is supposed to be. Only reward him for staying where he is supposed to be and not for getting up then going back - you don't want him to purposefully get up and then go back just to get a treat. You want him to stay there without leaving at all. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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how do i get gracie to come to me when she gets out. i have a older dog and if he gets out my front door he is off running and gracie will follow him
Hello, for safety it's best to work on recall for both of the dogs. The older one and Gracie, too. Cars and other dogs can present a real hazard. The Reel in Method is excellent as is the Round Robin Method (you'll need to recruit friends). https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-whippet-to-recall. Both dogs will benefit from a brush up on their obedience commands, too because if used to structure, it will carry through to the rest of the day. This is also a good recall guide that teaches the skills from basic to advanced: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shiba-inu-to-come. All the best and good luck!
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My Dad and I got two female puppies from the same litter. We live on a ranch were there is plenty of place to roam. If only one dog is off the leash then the other will come back perfectly fine every time, although when they are off together they run away and we have to go find. Please help.
Hello Patricia, I suggest teaching an e-collar come and teaching th dogs that the collar vibration means come so that you can simply vibrate the collar when they should come back - and only correct with stimulation if they ignore the vibration. To teach come, start by teaching a normal come using a long leash and the reel in method from the article linked below. Reel in method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-whippet-to-recall E-collar come info: https://youtu.be/rtJxSXu4rfs James Penrith from take the lead dog training has several recall videos on his YouTube channel to learn more about e-collars, working levels, and teaching come. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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Jax runs away the first chance he gets, he jumps the fence goes, nearly every day he’s a nuisance but we love him and wouldn’t want to see him hurt, we need help training him to stay at home as it’s very hard to get him every time he gets out as the owners have children and works
Hello, I think the safest thing is to get a higher fence. But I know it is not always an easy solution. If Jax is 2 years old and has been doing this every day, a few simple commands won't do the trick. I think a professional trainer has to be hired to come in and work with Jax on his own turf establishing boundaries. That is the safest option (along with not letting him outside unattended). You can try the Five Step Method here: https://wagwalking.com/training/stay-in-the-yard. Jax's family has to be on board with the training and the rules in order for it to work. All the best!
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He bolts out the door Everytime he sees the door is open. And when I go to get him he just runs further away. We have another dog that stays and listens bit boxer is definitely a little rebel boxer is mostly boxer and part pitbull
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