Bloodhounds have incredibly sensitive noses and are often used by police for tracking and following trails. They can follow a scent for miles, so making sure your dog has a good recall and is obedience trained will be essential to making sure he is safe and under control. Basic obedience is important for every dog, but especially for these kinds of dogs. Not only will it help give your dog direction and an understanding of where he is in the pecking order of the family, but it will make him more enjoyable for friends and family who come over or interact with your dog.
When you obedience train a Bloodhound you need to keep your training times short because they don't have a long attention span. It's best to give your dog several short training sessions throughout the day so you can slowly build on each lesson and keep it fun. The last thing you want to do is frustrate or bore your dog because that will make training miserable for both of you.
I'm about to get Cadaver in the next couple weeks, and I'm looking for tips and tricks for training this breed. I have had hounds, but never a full-blooded one. I know how to train the basics,But I would really appreciate any extra tips and ways to train him.
Thanks so much for the help in advanced!
Hello Virgil, First, know that every puppy is an individual, so your pup could be the exception to these these, but generally I would say. 1. Understand that pup's instinct to sniff and the smells around pup will be very distracting and interesting to pup. Many bloodhounds will get caught up in a scent and forget everything else they were doing. I would start recall early but always keep in mind that smells, which are invisible distractions to us, can lead pup into trouble when not monitored. Additionally, you can also use smells to your advantage and teach pup finding games, hide treats, and motive pup with smelly objects and smelly treats in training. Smell will often be a bigger motivator in training than something like a tennis ball would be for another breed. 2. Bloodhounds tend to do things at their own speed a bit and it's normal to need a lot of repetition in training. Set your expectations for slow and steady win the race. Pup can learn but it's likely a slow march forward with steady progress than instant results. Consistency and steadfastness from you will be important for training, and remember to use scent to your advantage in training. 3. Bloodhounds can be sensitive even though they may seem also independent or stubborn. Consistency and follow through often works better than harshness. Earn respect through regular training practice, consistently enforcing your rules, and patiently waiting pup out until they follow through on things. Overly harsh training, like hitting or yelling can cause them to shut down. Use smelly rewards to your advantage, and even scents in your environment to your advantage - such as "You may go sniff that tree if you come first, but only if you come to me first", so obedience is rewarded with smell, instead of smell being a reason pup can ignore you. A long training leash helps with this type of training. 4. If you want to see pup get excited about training, tricks, games, ect...keep pup's breed in mind and choose ones that fit his instincts. A bloodhound isn't always into the conventional dog games like fetch, frisbee, agility, ect...Although many have excelled anyway. Tracking, hide and seek, day hikes, and calm socialization with other dogs might appeal to your dog more. Think about pup's prey drive, scenting ability, social skills, and what environments, games, and training utilize those if you want to really watch pup have fun. Again, there are exceptions and the occasional hound will love a frisbee, but if not, that doesn't mean pup can't have a lot of fun by changing the activity. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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Every time someone passes by outside like walking riding a bike etc, Bear continuously barks and pounces on the window. I don’t know how to get him to stop. Can you please help. I’m so afraid he is eventually gonna go through the glass. Thank you! Nancy.
Hello Nancy, I would start by teaching pup some commands that could help with managing the behavior. Place: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O75dyWITP1s Out - which means leave the area: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-the-out-command/ Leave It method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite Quiet method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bark Next, I would recruit some friends, one at a time, to help you by walking past the window. Have the person start far enough from the window outside that pup notices but can respond more calmly, and still obey your instructions. Practice with the person passing by over and over and over, further away, while you give pup instructions like Quiet, Place, or Out, and reward pup for ignoring the person outside and obeying you. As pup improves, have the person very gradually pass by at a closer distance, only getting closer to the window when pup isn't concerned about the person at the current distance. Practice this until that person can pass right by the window and pup will remain calm because that person has become boring and pup is being rewarded for the calmness instead. When pup can stay calm with that person, have a different person practice the same thing, then a different person with a dog, ect... Once pup can handle your friends/family pup doesn't know passing by, then reward pup when actual strangers pass by, giving pup instructions like Quiet or Place or Out as needed, and rewarding pup when they stay calm to begin with when you notice there is someone outside - to ultimately encourage a habit of not barking at all out the window. When you aren't there to enforce the training and be proactive, confine pup somewhere where they can't see out that window, so they aren't practicing the reactive behavior, making it more entrenched and undermining your training efforts, in the meantime. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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I recently just got Tbone a couple days ago and he’s wanting to take off down the road I assume it’s because he misses his previous owner but we live on 600 acre ranch I have to keep him on a chain outside because I can’t call him back when he takes off
Hello Katlyn, Many hounds have a strong tendency to wander from home because they enjoy following trails with their nose so much. Being new to your property, pup probably doesn't have a strong sense of home there right now, so is even more inclined to go explore and get lost with his nose. I recommend keeping pup confined when you aren't with him right now - just make sure pup is somewhere safe where he has protection from the elements and other animals can't hurt him, while you work on off-leash training to help him become more trustworthy off leash in the future. First, start working on a reliable Come. Check out the Reel In method from the article linked below. Reel In method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-whippet-to-recall More Come - pay attention to the PreMack Principle and long leash training sections especially once pup has learned what Come initially means. These need to be practiced around all types of distractions like dogs and squirrels and scents to ensure pup is reliable before attempting true off leash. https://www.petful.com/behaviors/train-dog-to-come-when-called/ Another activity you can practice is walking around places like your yard or a field with pup on the long training leash and changing directions frequently without saying anything. Whenever he takes notice (at first because the leash finally tugs, but later just because you moved), then toss a treat at him for looking your way or coming over to you - without calling him; this encourages him to choose to pay attention to where you are and associate your presence with good things on his own, so he will want to be with you. If you eventually want to teach pup to stay closer to home on your property, you can work on some boundary training too. Know that some Hounds are pretty driven to wander and may need a fence when you aren't with them though. I suggest following the "Recruit Help from Friends method" from the article linked below. https://wagwalking.com/training/stay-in-an-unfenced-yard If pup is especially prone to wander still, even after doing all of the above, you can either invest in a physical fence to keep him safe, and/or do some remote collar training in addition to the above method. I would hire a professional trainer who has experience with that tool and that level of training to help with any of that type of training you pursue though. First, learn how to fit the collars correctly by watching the video below: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DLxB6gYsliI Figure out pup's "working level" on your e-collar, which is the lowest level that dog responds to at all - indicating they can feel the collar at all. Check out the video linked below on how to find this level and go through this protocol for each dog. Finding their Working Level - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1cl3V8vYobM Next, walk pup, one dog at a time around your perimeter. Each time they approach the boundary line (which I would use property flags to mark well so pup's can visually remember and you will be consistent), use your leash to reel them back toward you, back inside the property line while at the same time pushing the stimulation button on the remote collar while pup is on the wrong side of the boundary line - as soon as pup gets back on the correct side of the boundary line, the correct stops and pup is praised. When pup begins to avoid going over the boundary line, you can also give treats for staying on the correct side. This will involve a lot of walking. Pup's will need to do this a lot, each dog separately, one at a time at first around the entire property line. Once pup's have learned the lesson well. You can go for a walk near the boundary line with the dogs off-leash and correct with the remote training collar if they cross the boundary during the walk - showing them that they still can't cross while off leash either. While you are still training the dogs you will need to physically keep them on your property using leashes and such so that they aren't running across the boundary line when you aren't ready - that will ruin your training. They need to be corrected consistently for crossing the boundary lines while you show them what they are supposed to be doing using the long leash (if you just correct and skip the long leash part they will likely run away and not toward you because they won't understand at first why they are being corrected - reeling them in with the leash and stopping the correction as soon as they are on the correct side of the boundary helps them learn to come back over to your side of the line). Another, easier option that will likely be even more effective if it's an option financially will be installing an electric fence around your property. You will still need to walk them around the boundary using a long leash and reel them back to your side of the boundary line when they cross to show them how to stop the correction - but the collars from the electric fence will enforce the correction for you and will be very consistent in correcting pup for crossing the boundary when you aren't around - making the training more effective and probably quicker for you. With electric fences, use flags to mark the boundary also and because your property is large, don't remove the flags later - keep them in place as a reminder if you don't have a physical wooden fence to remind pup. Don't skip walking the boundary with pup and teaching pup to avoid the electric fence - many people skip that part and it can ruin training for electric fences because dogs cross, then run and don't know how to stop the correction by returning - pup need to learn to return to make the correction stop so that they understand how to avoid the correction by not crossing the boundary. Reward pup with treats for not crossing. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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Hello, no doubt Georgia is displaying the typical puppy antics of a 10 week old puppy. She may be young, but she needs plenty of exercise and mental stimulation to keep her well behaved and content. Buy her treat puzzle toys to teach her to entertain herself and to work her brain. Buy her textured teething toys to soothe gums and teeth. Work on starting her obedience training, and once the vet gives the okay, she can start puppy classes. This is great for socialization with people and dogs. It also helps you to form a bond with her that will be the foundation for the obedience you are looking for. Give her lots of exercise and do the 5-10 minute daily training sessions after she has had playtime/exercise so she is receptive. This guide gives an excellent start to obedience training: https://wagwalking.com/training/obedience-train-a-german-shepherd-puppy. This is good as well: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-rottweiler-to-be-obedient. Happy training and all the best to Georgia!
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She is pretty good at everything except listening to her name and when to stay, and come. When she wants to play, she goes to hard and tries to jump and grab our arms with her mouth.
Hello, To teach pup to respond to her name better, practice saying her name and holding a treat next to your eye. When pup looks toward your eye, praise and give a treat. Practice often until pup consistently looks at your eye when you say her name. Next, pretend to hold the treat by your eye with your hand but actually have it hidden behind your back in your other hand. Say pup's name and praise and reward pup with the treat from behind your back when they look at your eye. Practice until pup looks consistently. Also, practice at random times throughout the day when pup isn't expecting it. Next, simply point to your eye and do the same process until pup is good at looking at your eye then even at random times during the day. Finally, simply say pup's name without pointing at your eye and reward with a treat hidden in your pocket throughout the day at random times of the day - you can also use pup's meal kibble as treats kept in a ziploc baggie in your pocket. Stay: https://www.thelabradorsite.com/train-your-labrador-to-lie-down-and-stay/ Come - Reel In method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-whippet-to-recall Step Toward method for jumping: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-australian-shepherds-to-not-jump Leave It method for biting: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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