How to Obedience Train a Poodle
Jump to section
Introduction
Jojo was Grandma's purebred Miniature Poodle. While Poodles have a reputation for being hyper, emotional dogs, JoJo, like all Grandma's previous Poodles, was beautifully behaved and listened well to obedience commands. He was a joy to be around, and great with the grandkids.
So why do Poodles have a reputation for hard-to-control, excitable dogs? It all depends on the training that their owners invest in them, and the environment they are raised in. Poodles are very smart dogs, second only to Border Collies, and they are high energy people dogs. This can make them easy to train obedience to, as long as they are kept calm and focused. Poodles do not do well in stressful environments where they can get confused and upset and have trouble understanding what is expected of them. Being firm, calm, and gentle is the key to successfully training your Poodle obedience commands.
Top
Defining Tasks
The basic obedience commands are 'come', 'sit', 'stay', 'down' and 'heel'. You can use the English words, or the equivalent words in any language, it doesn't matter. Your Poodle will not understand the language or the words, he simply learns that when he hears that particular sound he is supposed to run over to you, sit his bottom down, not leave the spot he is in, lie down, or walk next to your left leg at the same speed you are moving. You should provide commands in a clear, firm, voice. Do not yell, as this is distressing to your dog, but make sure you speak clearly so your dog can hear you. Many owners find it useful to add hand signals as well as verbal commands to obedience behaviors. Hand signals give you an alternate way to command obedience and can be used when your dog is unable to hear you, or when you are trying not to make any noise. A Poodle can start learning obedience commands very young, as a puppy of 6-8 weeks. Your young Poodle may take a while to learn all the obedience commands, but never underestimate your smart little Poodle dog, he may surprise you with how quick he takes to obedience training.
Top
Getting Started
Training your Poodle obedience will require treats and a leash for learning to heel. Be sure to train your sensitive, high energy poodle when you are in a calm, positive mood, and when your Poodle has had some exercise so that your dog is able to focus on training and not be distracted by excess energy or your mood. Always use positive reinforcement, not negative reinforcement, to obedience train your poodle. Keep training sessions short, especially for young dogs, so they do not become frustrated or bored.
Top
The Capture and Shape Method
Effective
0 Votes
Effective
0 Votes
Start with the simplest command
Have a clicker and treats available. Start with the simplest obedience command for your people-oriented Poodle: 'come'.
Reinforce 'come'
Wait for your Poodle to run over to you. When he does click and treat, say “come”. Repeat frequently until your Poodle responds to the command “come”. Gradually remove clicker and treat.
Reinforce 'sit'
Wait with a clicker in your hand. When your dog sits down, say “sit”, click and treat. Practice frequently.
Reinforce 'down'
Once your dog has mastered 'sit', wait while he is in the sitting position for him to lie down, add the “down” command. Practice.
Reinforce 'stay'
Teach the 'stay' command by saying “stay” waiting a few seconds while your dog is in place, then clicking and treating. If your dog moves, do not click and treat but position your dog again and repeat the “stay” command until your dog is successful at staying in place. Gradually increase length of time required for your dog to stay in place before clicking and treating.
Reinforce 'heel'
Hold a clicker and treats while you walk your Poodle. When your Poodle trots along at your left leg, click and treat. Do not reinforce if your poodle lags behind or pulls in front.
The Lure to Obedience Method
Effective
0 Votes
Effective
0 Votes
Lure to come
Hold a treat out and call your dog by commanding “come”. When your Poodle runs over to you, provide the treat, praise and affection. Repeat often.
Lure to sit
Stand in front of your Poodle holding a treat above and slightly behind his head. In order to reach the treat, your dog will move back and onto his bottom. Say “sit” and provide the treat when your dog sits. Practice frequently.
Lure to lie down
Ask your dog to sit, then hold a treat down on the ground in front of your Poodle until he lies down on the floor to reach the treat. Say “down” and provide the treat.
Lure to stay
While lying down or sitting, ask your dog to “stay”. Hold a treat but do not provide it yet. Wait a few seconds, if your poodle remains in place then reward with the treat. If your dog moves, re-position and repeat until he is successful. Gradually increase the time your dog needs to stay in place to get his treat.
Lure to heel
Hold a treat in a closed hand at your side and walk with your Poodle on your left side. Lure your poodle to stay at your left side by letting him smell the treat in your closed hand. Periodically provide the treat as your Poodle walks beside you. Replace with another, hold and continue.
The Hand Signals Method
Effective
0 Votes
Effective
0 Votes
Pair hand signal for 'sit'
Hold a treat in your hand, palm up. With your Poodle in front of you, move your palm up to your chest. As your dog tracks your movement he will tend to sit down. Say "sit" and provide the treat when he is successful. Eventually you can stop using the treat and just say “sit” and use the hand signal.
Add hand signal for 'down'
Hold a treat between your fingers with your palm facing down and your Poodle in front of you. Move your palm down to the floor and say “down”. When your dog follows your hand and lies down on the floor, provide the treat.
Signal 'come'
Hold your hands out parallel to the ground straight out from your sides with a treat in one hand. Call your Poodle to come and bring both your hands together at your chest. When your dog runs over, provide the treat.
Add hand signal for 'stay'
To teach your Poodle the hand signal for stay, hold your palm out toward your dog while he is sitting and say “stay”. Provide a treat when your dog stays for a few minutes. Gradually increase time, continue pairing the hand signal and verbal command.
Signal and reinforce 'heel'
Tap your hip with your hand while asking your Poodle to heel. Reinforce heeling with treats, praise and affection.
Alternate verbal and hand signals
Gradually practice using either verbal or hand signals individually. Decrease using treats and use praise and affection for reinforcement instead.
Written by Laurie Haggart
Veterinary reviewed by:
Published: 02/01/2018, edited: 01/08/2021
Training Questions and Answers
Jasper
Schnoodle
Three Months
Question
0 found this helpful
0 found this helpful
My schnoodle has the poodle personality for sure! He is starting to get mouthy, and his puppy biting is starting to break skin. We’ve tried redirecting to toys, distracting him, saying no in a calm but firm voice, saying ouch, walking away, and finally time outs after three bites. Definitely saying ouch and anything that is a form of restraining him (when he has puppy tantrums and we hold him calmly and firmly by our side) amps him up more. With time out, he comes out the same. I’ve heard with poodles there’s a special way you need to handle these situations. Any advice?
Sept. 5, 2022
Jasper's Owner
Caitlin Crittenden - Dog Trainer
1128 Dog owners recommended
Hello, I recommend working on the Leave It method. As an intelligent breed, get pup working for you and using his brain more to wear him out also. When he gets really wound up, I would still give some time in the crate, not as a punishment but with a dog food stuffed chew toy they can work their frustrations out on, and because often puppies will throw what looks like puppy tantrums and get a bit crazy when they are overtired, so sometimes they actually need a forced rest time. The rest time isn't what will teach pup, that's the Leave It method, but it does help pup get that quiet time they need so you can then train when they come back without them being overtired and harder to work with. Leave It method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite I would also teach Out - which means leave the area, and Place so pup can just go lie down somewhere calmly and chew on a toy and give you space as needed. Out: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-the-out-command/ Place: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O75dyWITP1s Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
Sept. 6, 2022
Billie
toy poodle
3 Years
Question
0 found this helpful
0 found this helpful
How do I get my dog to stop barking at everything even when we are all at home? Also she thinks that she needs to protect us from everything and everyone at home or when we are out.
Jan. 11, 2022
Billie's Owner
Caitlin Crittenden - Dog Trainer
1128 Dog owners recommended
Hello Grace, I suggest combining a few things in your case. First, you need a way to communicate with her so I suggest teaching the Quiet command from the Quiet method in the article I have linked below - don't expect this alone to work but it will be part of the puzzle for what I will suggest next. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bark Next, once pup understands what Quiet means you will choose an interrupter - which will be a form of punishment - neither too harsh nor ineffective. An e-collar or Pet Convincer are two of the most effective types of interrupter for most dogs. A pet convincer is a small canister of pressurized, unscented air that you can spray a quick puff of at the dog's side to surprise them enough to help them calm back down. (Don't use citronella and avoid spraying in the face!). An e-collar, aka remote training collar, uses stimulation to interrupt the dog. Only use a high quality e-collar for this, such as E-collar technologies mini educator, Dogtra, SportDog, or Gamin. A good collar should have at least 40 levels, the more levels the more accurately you can train - finding the lowest level your dog will respond to, called a "Working level" so the training is less adverse. In situations where you know pup will bark or is already barking (catch them before they bark if you can), command "Quiet". If they obey, reward with a treat and very calm praise. If they bark anyway or continue to bark, say "Ah Ah" firmly but calmly and give a brief correction. Repeat the correction each time they bark until you get a brief pause in the barking. When they pause, praise and reward then. The combination of communication, correction, and rewarding - with the "Ah Ah" and praise to mark their good and bad behavior with the right timing, is very important. Most bark training only gives part of that equation. Fitting an e-collar - it should be put on while she is calm, just standing around - Ideally have her wear the collar around for a while before starting any training so she won't associate the training with the collar but just with her barking: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DLxB6gYsliI Finding the level to use for her (sometimes you will have to go 1 or 2 levels higher during training while the dog is aroused but once she improves you can usually decrease back to her normal level again) - this training level is called a dog's "Working level": https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1cl3V8vYobM Once pup is calmer in general after the initial training, practice exposing her a lot to the things that trigger the barking normally (make a list - even if it's long). Whenever she DOESN'T bark around something that she normally would have, calmly praise and reward her to continue the desensitization process. An automatic bark collar can also be used during times when she likes to bark while you aren't there after the initial training is done - so she understands that the correction is for her barking at that point in the training. While you are not home, confine her in a crate or room that doesn't look out the windows right now - barking at things out the window lets her practice the bad behavior over and over again and barking is a self-rewarding behavior because of the arousing chemicals released in a dog's brain - so once a dog starts she is encouraged naturally to continue it and stay in that state of mind if you aren't there to interrupt. If she has ever shown any form of aggression toward you or redirected aggression toward you while aroused, I would also desensitize her to wearing a basket muzzle and work on building trust and respect calmly for you through adding in more structure to her day and more structured obedience practice with you, with the safety of a basket muzzle in place first, and consider hiring a professional trainer who specializes in behavior issues like aggression to work with you in person. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
Jan. 11, 2022