Rumor has it that the Chihuahua is ridiculously difficult to housebreak. Those who say this simply don't understand their Chi very well. The Chihuahua is, in fact, a highly intelligent breed and can be trained to obey an incredible number of commands and learn even more tricks. Once you put your mind to ending the constant landmines in the house, you can train your Chi to poop outside in just a few weeks as long as you are ready to put in the time.
The hardest part of potty training a Chi is that they are so small it's hard to catch them in the act. It's no good trying to admonish him after the fact, he won't have a clue what you are mad about. The most important part of this training is that you remain consistent with your pup's training. This is the only way he will learn what you want of him.
In this particular case, you will be training your pup not to leave you those wonderful little surprises in the most awkward of places. Along with teaching your dog the importance of waiting until he is outside to do his business, you will be teaching him to let you know that he needs to go. In most cases, he will find his own way of notifying you, but you can also teach him to bark at the door or offer another type of signal.
The good news is that as long as you keep an eye on your pup and take him out on a regular basis and at any sign he needs to go, your Chi can learn to poop outside where he is supposed to. The best part is that you will finally be able to walk across your floor barefoot again.
You can start working on potty training your pup at a very early age, even before you start working on basic commands. The younger you start the better, as puppies learn far faster than adult dogs. Bear in mind that puppies, especially Chis, have very small bowels and will need to go potty far more frequently than a bigger dog. There are a few things you might need along the way such as:
The rest is all about patience and taking the time to work with your Chi constantly. Remember that Rome wasn't built in a day, it is going to take time for your Chi to master this very important skill. Even after he has mastered it, there will be the occasional accident until your pup matures.
my dog is outside pee trained but will go poop outside and will not go on a pad inside.
Hello Teri, It sounds like you are saying that your dog is trained to go potty both outside and inside - on a pee pad, but will only poop while outside. If that's the case, many dogs associate pee pads with other household items like carpet and rugs. Those dogs will often either have accidents inside often or will avoid going potty inside completely because they view it as unacceptable. I typically don't recommend forcing the issue with these dogs because if there is confusion, them finally pottying on the pads could result in them having accidents in other areas too. For those dogs I usually recommend switching from pee pads to real-grass pads. Real grass pads are usually less confusing for dogs and not as likely to be confused with any other area of your house. Check out the Exercise or Crate Training method from the article linked below and use a real grass pad in place of the litter box mentioned in the article: Exercise Pen or Crate Training method for indoor potty training: https://wagwalking.com/training/litter-box-train-a-chihuahua-puppy Real grass pad brands - be sure to sure real-grass and not astroturf pads: www.freshpatch.com www.doggielawn.com www.porchpotty.com Freshpatch and doggielawn can also be found on Amazon.com If I miss understood and the issue is that pup will not poop OUTSIDE, then check out the article linked below and the Crate Training method or Tethering method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-german-shepherd-puppy-to-poop-outside Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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Pees and pops in house.
Hi! I am going to send you information on both potty training and crate training should you decide to utilize a crate to aid in potty training. Potty training: Know Your Pup. As you spend time with your puppy, learn your puppy’s love language. Just as some people prefer gifts, touch, or time spent together, puppies can be the same way. Some puppies love praise or pets, while others prefer treats. As you get to know your puppy, consider what reward your puppy loves the most. Create a Daily Schedule. It is best to have a routine for your puppy. A schedule helps them understand when to eat, play, and “go to the bathroom.” Your puppy should go out frequently and the routine should be the same every time. When? Start the day by taking your puppy outside, and repeating based on age and ability. They should also go out after napping, chewing, playing, and within 10 to 15 minutes of eating. Although some puppies can sleep for seven hours, it is important to set an alarm and take your pup out during the night. When you do, don’t make a fuss about it. Quietly take them outside with minimal stimulation and light. Praise them if they go to the bathroom and gently return them to their bed or crate. You don’t want them to get stimulated and ready to play in the middle of the night! As you get to know your puppy, you will become aware of their individual habits. Click here to learn more about house training schedules for puppies. Where? Take your puppy to a specific area to urinate or defecate. Be consistent. You can create an area by using urine-soaked paper or bowel movements to help create an aroma to stimulate your puppy. How? Take your puppy out on a leash so they can focus on the desired activity. This will help prevent them from wandering off to play. Once your puppy is in the selected area, use your verbal cue, such as “Hurry Up,” “Poopies,” “Go tinkle,” or any phrase your puppy responds to. What? Know the signs that your puppy has to go to the bathroom. Every animal may have a different “I gotta go” gesture, which often include restlessness, sniffing around, circling, scratching at the door, barking, and, eventually, squatting. At the first sign that your pup has to go, calmly and quickly take them outside to their bathroom spot. Deal with Accidents. Accidents are a normal part of house training a puppy. What to Do If you see your puppy in the process of urinating or defecating inappropriately, calmly and quickly interrupt them in the act. Tell them to stop (either by a jarring sound or command), and immediately take them to an appropriate location for elimination. After your puppy goes to the bathroom, lavishly praise them and offer a treat. Thoroughly clean up accidents, so your puppy is not attracted to this area again. Create a consistent feeding and watering schedule. Depending on the age of your puppy, they will eat three to four times a day. A consistent feeding routine can create a regular bathroom schedule. Take away water about 2 hours before bedtime. Learn more about ideal dog schedules here. What NOT to Do Don’t punish your puppy when they have an accident. At that point, it is too late. When a puppy has an accident in the house and they walk away, within seconds they have already forgotten about what they did. Taking them to the scene of the crime and yelling and/or rubbing their nose in it does not help and, in fact, can harm your puppy! Supervise. The best thing you can do is to prevent accidents and the best way to do this is to supervise your puppy at all times. You can tether your puppy to your waist with a five or six-foot leash and carefully observe them for signs that they need to go to the bathroom. If you can’t supervise, then crate or confine your puppy. The more accidents your puppy has in the house, the more confusing it will be for them and this can delay house training. Reward, Reward, Reward. It is important to give your puppy a reward for their good behavior. This can be for commands such as sitting and coming to you, or for appropriately eliminating outside. In a puppy, a reward can be a couple kibbles of puppy food or a treat, such as a small piece of meat. The treat should be exciting for them and only available as a result of good behavior. Crate training can take days or weeks, depending on your dog's age, temperament and past experiences. It's important to keep two things in mind while crate training: The crate should always be associated with something pleasant and training should take place in a series of small steps. Don't go too fast. Step 1: Introduce your dog to the crate Place the crate in an area of your house where the family spends a lot of time, such as the family room. Put a soft blanket or towel in the crate. Take the door off and let the dog explore the crate at their leisure. Some dogs will be naturally curious and start sleeping in the crate right away. If yours isn't one of them: Bring them over to the crate and talk to them in a happy tone of voice. Make sure the crate door is open and secured so that it won't hit your dog and frighten them. Encourage your dog to enter the crate by dropping some small food treats nearby, then just inside the door, and finally, all the way inside the crate. If they refuse to go all the way in at first, that's OK; don't force them to enter. Continue tossing treats into the crate until your dog will walk calmly all the way into the crate to get the food. If they aren’t interested in treats, try tossing a favorite toy in the crate. This step may take a few minutes or as long as several days. Step 2: Feed your dog meals in the crate After introducing your dog to the crate, begin feeding them their regular meals near the crate. This will create a pleasant association with the crate. If your dog is readily entering the crate when you begin Step 2, place the food dish all the way at the back of the crate. If they remain reluctant to enter, put the dish only as far inside as they will readily go without becoming fearful or anxious. Each time you feed them, place the dish a little further back in the crate. Once your dog is standing comfortably in the crate to eat their meal, you can close the door while they’re eating. The first time you do this, open the door as soon as they finish their meal. With each successive feeding, leave the door closed a few minutes longer, until they’re staying in the crate for 10 minutes or so after eating. If they begin to whine to be let out, you may have increased the length of time too quickly. Next time, try leaving them in the crate for a shorter time period. If they do whine or cry in the crate, don’t let them out until they stop. Otherwise, they'll learn that the way to get out of the crate is to whine, so they'll keep doing it. Step 3: Practice with longer crating periods After your dog is eating their regular meals in the crate with no sign of fear or anxiety, you can confine them there for short time periods while you're home. Call them over to the crate and give them a treat. Give them a command to enter, such as "crate." Encourage them by pointing to the inside of the crate with a treat in your hand. After your dog enters the crate, praise them, give them the treat and close the door. Sit quietly near the crate for five to 10 minutes and then go into another room for a few minutes. Return, sit quietly again for a short time and then let them out. Repeat this process several times a day, gradually increasing the length of time you leave them in the crate and the length of time you're out of sight. Once your dog will stay quietly in the crate for about 30 minutes with you mostly out of sight, you can begin leaving them crated when you're gone for short time periods and/or letting them sleep there at night. This may take several days or weeks. Step 4, Part A: Crate your dog when you leave After your dog can spend about 30 minutes in the crate without becoming anxious or afraid, you can begin leaving them crated for short periods when you leave the house. Put them in the crate using your regular command and a treat. You might also want to leave them with a few safe toys in the crate. Vary the moment during your "getting ready to leave" routine that you put your dog in the crate. Although they shouldn't be crated for a long time before you leave, you can crate them anywhere from five to 20 minutes prior to leaving. Don't make your departures emotional and prolonged—they should be matter-of-fact. Praise your dog briefly, give them a treat for entering the crate and then leave quietly. When you return home, don't reward your dog for excited behavior by responding to them in an enthusiastic way. Keep arrivals low-key to avoid increasing their anxiety over when you will return. Continue to crate your dog for short periods from time to time when you're home so they don't associate crating with being left alone. Step 4, Part B: Crate your dog at night Put your dog in the crate using your regular command and a treat. Initially, it may be a good idea to put the crate in your bedroom or nearby in a hallway, especially if you have a puppy. Puppies often need to go outside to eliminate during the night and you'll want to be able to hear your puppy when they whine to be let outside. Older dogs should also initially be kept nearby so they don't associate the crate with social isolation. Once your dog is sleeping comfortably through the night with the crate near you, you can begin to gradually move it to the location you prefer, although time spent with your dog—even sleep time—is a chance to strengthen the bond between you and your pet. Potential problems Whining: If your dog whines or cries while in the crate at night, it may be difficult to decide whether they’re whining to be let out of the crate, or whether they need to be let outside to eliminate. If you've followed the training procedures outlined above, then your dog hasn't been rewarded for whining in the past by being released from their crate. If that is the case, try to ignore the whining. If your dog is just testing you, they'll probably stop whining soon. Yelling at them or pounding on the crate will only make things worse. If the whining continues after you've ignored them for several minutes, use the phrase they associate with going outside to eliminate. If they respond and become excited, take them outside. This should be a trip with a purpose, not play time. If you're convinced that your dog doesn't need to eliminate, the best response is to ignore them until they stop whining. Don't give in; if you do, you'll teach your dog to whine loud and long to get what they want. If you've progressed gradually through the training steps and haven't done too much too fast, you'll be less likely to encounter this problem. If the problem becomes unmanageable, you may need to start the crate training process over again. Separation anxiety: Attempting to use the crate as a remedy for separation anxiety won't solve the problem. A crate may prevent your dog from being destructive, but they may get injured in an attempt to escape. Separation anxiety problems can only be resolved with counterconditioning and desensitization procedures.
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Our chihuahua is paper trained to go indoors. I
would like to teach her to go outside now. she
will have none of that. I have given her treats and praise, moved soiled papers outside, say lets go potty, rang a bell that hangs on door, and take her out for one long walk everyday and
lots of small walks. Still she will not go outside. I try to crate her now but that hasn't worked either. I am scared I am going to give
her a kidney infection...HELP!
Hello Susan, Starting when you have a couple of days off work in a row, I would set up an exercise pen in the shade, place papers in one area of the pen, and spend as much time outside with pup as needed that day, weather permitting. Be sure pup has food and water out there when needed and the temperature in the shade is a safe temperature. When pup finally does go potty, praise genuinely and give a treat. I suspect pup will hold it 8-12 hours the first day out there, so be prepared for that. Do this for at least two days in a row, rewarding whenever pup goes and being patient. Once pup is going when outside all day, then use the crate when inside and take pup to that safe spot in the shade on the papers outside for each potty trip. I would give pup two hours of freedom out of the crate after they go potty, crate until it's been 3-4 hours while bladder is filling up, take pup outside to the paper spot in the grass (or similar surface you want pup to learn to go potty on), reward if pup goes, and return to the crate for an hour before trying again if pup doesn't go. The hardest part is probably going to be getting pup to go potty outside the first four times with a lot of waiting outside and crate time. Once pup starts going potty outside (because they have no other option), and is rewarded for it and sees that nothing bad happens, pup will probably become gradually more willing to continue going potty outside, as long as they don't have the freedom to go potty inside instead, until the habit is changed. The crate is essential for this to work. I would purchase a potty encouraging spray if pup tends to sniff around outside, and spray that on the paper outside before you take pup out there, to see if the scent will help pup go. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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