If you have just arrived home with your new Cane Corso puppy, now is the time to start potty training. In fact, the sooner you start, the faster your pup is going to learn. Cane Corso dogs are extremely intelligent and capable of learning many new skills. The breed was originally developed in Italy to hunt wild game such as boar and to guard property. He will give you and your family his undying loyalty, but at the same time, don't expect him to become buddies with everyone, this breed isn't quite that social.
Training your dog to go potty outside can be a bit on the challenging side, but it should be one of the first things you teach your pup. In fact, you should teach him this before you move on to teaching him anything else. You can, of course, work on potty training at the same time as you work on other skills such as 'sit', 'come', 'stay', and 'down'. While accidents are going to happen in the early weeks, by the time your pup is around 6 months of age, he should no longer be leaving you those little surprises all over the carpet.
One of the most important parts of training your Cane Corso to go potty outside is to learn how to pick up the signs your pup is giving you that he needs to go. Among these signs are sniffing the floor, circling, squatting, lifting a leg, and scratching at the door. You will also need a few training supplies to help you out along the way. These include:
Along with all of this, you need plenty of time to train your pup and the patience to see it through. Take your time, follow through, and your pup will learn not to go potty in the house.
I want to house train my Cane Corsos. I work an eight hour a day shift. This will reduce the amount of time required for them to go out regularly.
According to my research (crate training / puppy apartment) I would like to get two big play pens, two crates, and two turf grass w/ pee pads underneath.
Both dogs will be separated during the day in separate play pens. The play pen will contain toys, food , water dispenser, turf grass placed opposite from the crate.
My questions are:
What size of crate should I get? because the Corso grows really fast. I have been told that crate should be large enough for them to stand but not large enough for them to be comfortable to pee or defecate.
Do you think i should just use two crates and one play pen?
Hello Caleb, When the puppies are adults they will probably need 48" long crates, but you will not know that for sure until they are full grown. Looking at their parents' sizes can give you an idea of whether they will likely be smaller, average, or larger for the breed. A 48" long crate would be for probably an average sized Cane Corso. If your Exercise Pen will allow you to attach the pen to the sides of the crate, then you can go ahead and buy the large 48" crate, and attach it to the pen with the opening facing into the Exercise Pen, without the entire pen having to fit inside the Exercise Pen. If you are able to attach the pen to the crate securely, then many wire crates come with a metal grate that you can use to block off the back part of the crate. You can use that to make the crate small enough for your puppy, and then as he grows you can increase the size of the crate. You are correct that you want want to give each puppy enough room to lie down, turn around, and stand up, but not enough for him to be able to pee in one end and then stand in the opposite end in order to get away from it. If you do not want to buy the full sized 48" crates or cannot attach such large crates to the pens, then I would recommend getting crates one size larger than what the puppies need now based on the sizing that I just described, and then blocking off the backs of the crates with the metal grates to make them the correct size for potty training. You will need to measure the length of the puppies to find out which size crates to buy. By buying either of those size crates and blocking off the backs you can prevent accidents but also have enough room in the crates for them to grow, so that you only have to buy two or four crates for the puppies. One size for now and for the next few months, and one size for when the puppies are adults, or just one large 48" size now.. As far as whether or not to put the puppies together now, I would recommend using two Exercise Pen's so that the puppies do not get overly dependent on each other and experience separation anxiety later in life when they have to be separate. You can regularly confine the puppies separately but then put them together once or twice a week in the same Exercise Pen with the two crates also if you would like.. That way you are training them for both circumstances. Having them together or separate should not effect potty training either way though, as long as you set everything up like you described. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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We just adopted her. She was 5mo.when she arrived at the pet store. She has been with us for two days. Her demeanor is very calm. I took her to the park that evening when we picked her up to walk her for the 1st time before we got home. That is when I found out she seemed to be frightened of vehicles driving by. She was pulling hard on the leash as if she wanted to run off. She is strong I need to correct this.
Hello Myrtice, Because Bella was not socialized around cars through being taken on walks they are completely new to her and scary. That is not unusual based on her history. Spend time taking her to places with slow cars that are at a distance, such as areas of your neighborhood. Stay far enough back from the road that she notices the cars but does not flee. Whenever a car drives by, praise her, do a little fun dance around her, and give her several treats, one treat at a time. Practice this as often as you can for thirty to forty-five-minutes at a time. The idea is to make her like cars, but to also encourage her focus on you around cars, to prevent any future car chasing. When she is comfortable enough around cars to not flee right away, then gradually move closer and closer to the road as she shows signs that she is ready for a bit more training. Continue doing this over time until she can focus on you while standing on the sidewalk when cars drive by. While you are getting her used to cars work on teaching her "Heel" and doing obedience commands on a long leash in your yard, an open grassy area, or a quiet cul-de-sac in a neighborhood, to give her mental and physical exercise until you can take her for regular walks. Practicing obedience with her is actually even better for her and will likely wear her out even more than a walk will, since mental exercise has been proven to be twice as tiring for a dog than physical exercise alone. When she can handle cars being closer you can also practice her commands with cars in the background, while rewarding her heavily for her obedience and focus on you. This will help cars become boring and less frightening as well, since she will be in a happier and more relaxed state of mind already while working with you. While practicing all of this, make sure that she is wearing a collar or harness that she cannot slip out of if she were to get frightened. Ruffwear makes a padded harness called "Web Master Harness". That type of harness is a great thing to look for. It also makes a great car riding harness and a great harness to practice obedience on long leashes, for safety. A similar padded harness with that amount of security would also work. Another good option, that is slightly less secure than the harness but better than most other options, is a martingale collar. A martingale collar is a collar that will tighten just one to two inches when a dog pulls, keeping the collar from slipping off in most cases. It is not a choke collar that will tighten continuously, but simply tightens enough to keep it from slipping over a dog's head. Either way, make sure whatever harness or collar that you use is fitted tightly and cannot easily slip off. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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I have my puppy in his crate for training he
does well during the night, I leave him in his crate when I go to work, unfortunately he is in his crate for at least 9hrs and that is where pees only in his crate will he out grow that or im I going to have issues with his training? what can I do
Hello Yamaris, A puppy can only physically hold their bladder for the number of months they are in age plus one while awake, meaning your pup CANNOT hold his bladder for longer than 4 hours during the day. Forcing him to pee in his crate by not taking him out enough will teach him to go potty in his crate long term. You have a couple of options here: 1. You need to hire a dog walker to come to your home at least every 4 hours. When he turns 4 months old, it can be every 5 hours. When 5 months old, every 6 hours. Some adults even struggle to hold it for longer than 8/8.5 without a break though. 2. OR take him to doggie daycare during the day where they can take him potty. 4. OR if you have a fenced in, safe backyard, set up an exercise pen by a dog door and teach him to go out the dog door when he needs to go potty (I suggest creating a smaller run type grass area that the dog door goes to outside for this so that he can't chew and get into other things in the rest of the yard too, but only access a bare grassy spot. Be considerate about the risk of other animals with this option though - this wouldn't be my first suggestion. 5. OR set up an exercise pen in a room you normally don't plan for pup to be in and put a grass pad on one end and the crate for him to rest in on the other end, and teach him to potty on a disposable grass pad inside the exercise pen. Use normal crate training and potty training outside when you are home though to make the transition to peeing only outside later easier. To use the exercise pen check out the exercise pen method from the article linked below: https://wagwalking.com/training/litter-box-train-a-chihuahua-puppy Example of a real grass pad: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07K3WS97D/ref=sspa_mw_detail_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExUEJaRENBQk5VVE1GJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNDIzOTQ4M1JRQUNGMkZaNTlORyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNzk4NzQxU1FKQUdJR1dLRFlCJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfcGhvbmVfZGV0YWlsJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0 Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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I have a 9 month of cane corso and since being a puppy I’ve trained him to the best i can, but the thing I’m struggling with the most is every time i get his leash out to take him for a walk he either runs and hides or i get the leash on him and he lays down and doesn’t move I’ve tried everything he isn’t afraid of being outside its just when i show him his leash we never make it out on walks and i really need help...
Hello Chelsea, Check out the article linked below. I suggest practicing one of those methods, like the drag method around the house for a couple of weeks to desensitize him to the leash in general. Also, make sure that whatever harness or collar you are using to walk him with isn't rubbing or causing continuous pain in any way from friction, type of restraint, or being fitted or designed poorly. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-your-puppy-to-accept-leash Make sure you only practice something like the Drag method while you are home, just in case it gets caught on something. You can also check out something like VirChewLy for a leash option that has a removable handle and slides along the floor more easily - making it less likely to get wrapped around something in the house. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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We received Odin at 5 months old and have had him for a month now. We made a potty schedule to take Odin out every single hour on the hour as well as after meals and naps. He still seems to have accidents in the house (peeing) about 5 times a day. You can tell he knows that being outside means he needs to go potty.
Hello Kassy, If pup is having accidents after just an hour or less of going outside, I suggest a trip to your vet to rule out a medical cause, like incontinence or a urinary tract infection (I am not a vet). If there isn't a medical cause, I suggest following the Tethering method from the article linked below whenever you are home, and the crate training method at night, when pup can't be tethered to yourself, and when you leave. Instead of giving pup freedom for an hour between potty trips, keep pup tethered to yourself between trips (but rule out medical causes too). Tethering and Crate Training methods: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-german-shepherd-puppy-to-poop-outside Use a cleaner that contains enzymes to clean up any new or previous accidents that you know of. Only enzymes will fully remove the smell and the smell needs to go for pup not to be re-attracted to that same spot to go potty there again. Look on the pet cleaner bottle for the word enzyme or enzymatic somewhere - not all normal or pet cleaners contain it so you have to read for it - Nature's Miracle makes some sprays with it (but not all of theirs). Also, avoid ammonia containing cleaners on the floor in general - because ammonia smells like urine to a dog. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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