How to Potty Train a Cane Corso Puppy

Medium
3-6 Weeks
General

Introduction

If you have just arrived home with your new Cane Corso puppy, now is the time to start potty training. In fact, the sooner you start, the faster your pup is going to learn. Cane Corso dogs are extremely intelligent and capable of learning many new skills. The breed was originally developed in Italy to hunt wild game such as boar and to guard property. He will give you and your family his undying loyalty, but at the same time, don't expect him to become buddies with everyone, this breed isn't quite that social. 

Defining Tasks

Training your dog to go potty outside can be a bit on the challenging side, but it should be one of the first things you teach your pup. In fact, you should teach him this before you move on to teaching him anything else. You can, of course, work on potty training at the same time as you work on other skills such as 'sit', 'come', 'stay', and 'down'. While accidents are going to happen in the early weeks, by the time your pup is around 6 months of age, he should no longer be leaving you those little surprises all over the carpet. 

Getting Started

One of the most important parts of training your Cane Corso to go potty outside is to learn how to pick up the signs your pup is giving you that he needs to go. Among these signs are sniffing the floor, circling, squatting, lifting a leg, and scratching at the door. You will also need a few training supplies to help you out along the way. These include:

  • Crate – For training purposes and as a safe place to leave your pup when you can't be there.
  • Treats – As rewards for training.
  • Leash -  To take your pup outside on.
  • Cleaning stuff – To clean up those inevitable messes.

Along with all of this, you need plenty of time to train your pup and the patience to see it through. Take your time, follow through, and your pup will learn not to go potty in the house. 

The No Means No Method

Most Recommended
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Step
1
Stock up
Before getting started, you need to stock up on some tasty treats for your pup.
Step
2
Eyes on the pup
Keep your eyes on your pup as much as you can. The moment you see him acting as if he is getting ready to relieve himself, say "NO!" in a firm, but not angry, voice.
Step
3
Straight out
Pick him up and take him straight out to his spot in the yard to go potty. At the same time start using your cue, such as "Let's go outside" or something similar. The will help him connect the action with the cue.
Step
4
Patience gets results
It might take a few minutes for your pup to do his "business" but be patient. There will come a time when no matter what, he won't be able to hold it anymore. When he finally "goes" praise him and give him a treat. Then head back in the house.
Step
5
And the rest of it
The rest is all about continuing to work with your pup until he can wait for you to ask him if he needs to go out or he comes to you to let you know he needs to pee.
Recommend training method?

The Easy Peasy Method Method

Effective
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Step
1
Create your schedule
Before you start, you need to establish a schedule. In the beginning, start with taking him out every 20 minutes. If he does go potty, be sure to praise him and give him a treat. If he doesn't, don't worry about it. Just take him back in the house and give it a few minutes before you try again.
Step
2
Special times
There are certain times of the day when you need to take him out immediately. The first is when you get up in the morning, the second is after all meals and any time he drinks a lot of water, the third is after a nap, and then after an extended period of play.
Step
3
Choose a cue
Choose a cue word, "outside" usually works well. Use it every time you take your pup outside, this will help him associate the cue word with going outside to go potty. Before long, you should be able to ask your pup if he needs to go out and he will let you know.
Step
4
Add more time
Start extending the time between journeys outside over a period of a few weeks.
Step
5
Before you are done
Before you are finished training your pup, he should be coming to you or going to the door to let you know he needs to go potty.
Recommend training method?

The Take Him Outside Method

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1 Vote
Step
1
Mark your spot
Start by going out in your yard and choosing the right spot for your pup to use as his potty. Keep it close enough he can make it and far enough that it won't stink out the house.
Step
2
Let's go
Pick your cue word, something like "potty" or "outside". Hook your pup up to his leash, say "let's go outside" and take him outside to the chosen spot so he can go potty. Be sure to stay there long enough for him to pee and poop.
Step
3
Good job
When he goes potty, be sure to praise him and give him a treat. This lets him associate going outside to go potty with good things.
Step
4
Set a routine
Create a routine for taking your pup outside. For up to 12 weeks this should be every 30 minutes.
Step
5
Practice
After this, start extending the time until he can go for a few hours if necessary, at which point he will be potty trained.
Recommend training method?

Success Stories and Training Questions

Training Questions and Answers

Question
Kimbo and Coco
Cane Corso Italiano (Italian Mastiff)
10 Weeks
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Question
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Kimbo and Coco
Cane Corso Italiano (Italian Mastiff)
10 Weeks

Good day,

I want to house train my Cane Corsos. I work an eight hour a day shift. This will reduce the amount of time required for them to go out regularly.

According to my research (crate training / puppy apartment) I would like to get two big play pens, two crates, and two turf grass w/ pee pads underneath.

Both dogs will be separated during the day in separate play pens. The play pen will contain toys, food , water dispenser, turf grass placed opposite from the crate.

My questions are:
What size of crate should I get? because the Corso grows really fast. I have been told that crate should be large enough for them to stand but not large enough for them to be comfortable to pee or defecate.

Do you think i should just use two crates and one play pen?

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
823 Dog owners recommended

Hello Caleb, When the puppies are adults they will probably need 48" long crates, but you will not know that for sure until they are full grown. Looking at their parents' sizes can give you an idea of whether they will likely be smaller, average, or larger for the breed. A 48" long crate would be for probably an average sized Cane Corso. If your Exercise Pen will allow you to attach the pen to the sides of the crate, then you can go ahead and buy the large 48" crate, and attach it to the pen with the opening facing into the Exercise Pen, without the entire pen having to fit inside the Exercise Pen. If you are able to attach the pen to the crate securely, then many wire crates come with a metal grate that you can use to block off the back part of the crate. You can use that to make the crate small enough for your puppy, and then as he grows you can increase the size of the crate. You are correct that you want want to give each puppy enough room to lie down, turn around, and stand up, but not enough for him to be able to pee in one end and then stand in the opposite end in order to get away from it. If you do not want to buy the full sized 48" crates or cannot attach such large crates to the pens, then I would recommend getting crates one size larger than what the puppies need now based on the sizing that I just described, and then blocking off the backs of the crates with the metal grates to make them the correct size for potty training. You will need to measure the length of the puppies to find out which size crates to buy. By buying either of those size crates and blocking off the backs you can prevent accidents but also have enough room in the crates for them to grow, so that you only have to buy two or four crates for the puppies. One size for now and for the next few months, and one size for when the puppies are adults, or just one large 48" size now.. As far as whether or not to put the puppies together now, I would recommend using two Exercise Pen's so that the puppies do not get overly dependent on each other and experience separation anxiety later in life when they have to be separate. You can regularly confine the puppies separately but then put them together once or twice a week in the same Exercise Pen with the two crates also if you would like.. That way you are training them for both circumstances. Having them together or separate should not effect potty training either way though, as long as you set everything up like you described. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Question
Bella
Cane Corso
5 Months
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Question
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Bella
Cane Corso
5 Months

We just adopted her. She was 5mo.when she arrived at the pet store. She has been with us for two days. Her demeanor is very calm. I took her to the park that evening when we picked her up to walk her for the 1st time before we got home. That is when I found out she seemed to be frightened of vehicles driving by. She was pulling hard on the leash as if she wanted to run off. She is strong I need to correct this.

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
823 Dog owners recommended

Hello Myrtice, Because Bella was not socialized around cars through being taken on walks they are completely new to her and scary. That is not unusual based on her history. Spend time taking her to places with slow cars that are at a distance, such as areas of your neighborhood. Stay far enough back from the road that she notices the cars but does not flee. Whenever a car drives by, praise her, do a little fun dance around her, and give her several treats, one treat at a time. Practice this as often as you can for thirty to forty-five-minutes at a time. The idea is to make her like cars, but to also encourage her focus on you around cars, to prevent any future car chasing. When she is comfortable enough around cars to not flee right away, then gradually move closer and closer to the road as she shows signs that she is ready for a bit more training. Continue doing this over time until she can focus on you while standing on the sidewalk when cars drive by. While you are getting her used to cars work on teaching her "Heel" and doing obedience commands on a long leash in your yard, an open grassy area, or a quiet cul-de-sac in a neighborhood, to give her mental and physical exercise until you can take her for regular walks. Practicing obedience with her is actually even better for her and will likely wear her out even more than a walk will, since mental exercise has been proven to be twice as tiring for a dog than physical exercise alone. When she can handle cars being closer you can also practice her commands with cars in the background, while rewarding her heavily for her obedience and focus on you. This will help cars become boring and less frightening as well, since she will be in a happier and more relaxed state of mind already while working with you. While practicing all of this, make sure that she is wearing a collar or harness that she cannot slip out of if she were to get frightened. Ruffwear makes a padded harness called "Web Master Harness". That type of harness is a great thing to look for. It also makes a great car riding harness and a great harness to practice obedience on long leashes, for safety. A similar padded harness with that amount of security would also work. Another good option, that is slightly less secure than the harness but better than most other options, is a martingale collar. A martingale collar is a collar that will tighten just one to two inches when a dog pulls, keeping the collar from slipping off in most cases. It is not a choke collar that will tighten continuously, but simply tightens enough to keep it from slipping over a dog's head. Either way, make sure whatever harness or collar that you use is fitted tightly and cannot easily slip off. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Zyan
Cane Corso Italiano
13 Weeks
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Question
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Zyan
Cane Corso Italiano
13 Weeks

Hello,

I have my puppy in his crate for training he
does well during the night, I leave him in his crate when I go to work, unfortunately he is in his crate for at least 9hrs and that is where pees only in his crate will he out grow that or im I going to have issues with his training? what can I do

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
823 Dog owners recommended

Hello Yamaris, A puppy can only physically hold their bladder for the number of months they are in age plus one while awake, meaning your pup CANNOT hold his bladder for longer than 4 hours during the day. Forcing him to pee in his crate by not taking him out enough will teach him to go potty in his crate long term. You have a couple of options here: 1. You need to hire a dog walker to come to your home at least every 4 hours. When he turns 4 months old, it can be every 5 hours. When 5 months old, every 6 hours. Some adults even struggle to hold it for longer than 8/8.5 without a break though. 2. OR take him to doggie daycare during the day where they can take him potty. 4. OR if you have a fenced in, safe backyard, set up an exercise pen by a dog door and teach him to go out the dog door when he needs to go potty (I suggest creating a smaller run type grass area that the dog door goes to outside for this so that he can't chew and get into other things in the rest of the yard too, but only access a bare grassy spot. Be considerate about the risk of other animals with this option though - this wouldn't be my first suggestion. 5. OR set up an exercise pen in a room you normally don't plan for pup to be in and put a grass pad on one end and the crate for him to rest in on the other end, and teach him to potty on a disposable grass pad inside the exercise pen. Use normal crate training and potty training outside when you are home though to make the transition to peeing only outside later easier. To use the exercise pen check out the exercise pen method from the article linked below: https://wagwalking.com/training/litter-box-train-a-chihuahua-puppy Example of a real grass pad: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07K3WS97D/ref=sspa_mw_detail_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExUEJaRENBQk5VVE1GJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNDIzOTQ4M1JRQUNGMkZaNTlORyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNzk4NzQxU1FKQUdJR1dLRFlCJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfcGhvbmVfZGV0YWlsJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0 Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Question
Kilo
Cane Corso
9 Months
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Question
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Kilo
Cane Corso
9 Months

I have a 9 month of cane corso and since being a puppy I’ve trained him to the best i can, but the thing I’m struggling with the most is every time i get his leash out to take him for a walk he either runs and hides or i get the leash on him and he lays down and doesn’t move I’ve tried everything he isn’t afraid of being outside its just when i show him his leash we never make it out on walks and i really need help...

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
823 Dog owners recommended

Hello Chelsea, Check out the article linked below. I suggest practicing one of those methods, like the drag method around the house for a couple of weeks to desensitize him to the leash in general. Also, make sure that whatever harness or collar you are using to walk him with isn't rubbing or causing continuous pain in any way from friction, type of restraint, or being fitted or designed poorly. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-your-puppy-to-accept-leash Make sure you only practice something like the Drag method while you are home, just in case it gets caught on something. You can also check out something like VirChewLy for a leash option that has a removable handle and slides along the floor more easily - making it less likely to get wrapped around something in the house. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Odin
Cane Corso
6 Months
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Odin
Cane Corso
6 Months

We received Odin at 5 months old and have had him for a month now. We made a potty schedule to take Odin out every single hour on the hour as well as after meals and naps. He still seems to have accidents in the house (peeing) about 5 times a day. You can tell he knows that being outside means he needs to go potty.

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
823 Dog owners recommended

Hello Kassy, If pup is having accidents after just an hour or less of going outside, I suggest a trip to your vet to rule out a medical cause, like incontinence or a urinary tract infection (I am not a vet). If there isn't a medical cause, I suggest following the Tethering method from the article linked below whenever you are home, and the crate training method at night, when pup can't be tethered to yourself, and when you leave. Instead of giving pup freedom for an hour between potty trips, keep pup tethered to yourself between trips (but rule out medical causes too). Tethering and Crate Training methods: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-german-shepherd-puppy-to-poop-outside Use a cleaner that contains enzymes to clean up any new or previous accidents that you know of. Only enzymes will fully remove the smell and the smell needs to go for pup not to be re-attracted to that same spot to go potty there again. Look on the pet cleaner bottle for the word enzyme or enzymatic somewhere - not all normal or pet cleaners contain it so you have to read for it - Nature's Miracle makes some sprays with it (but not all of theirs). Also, avoid ammonia containing cleaners on the floor in general - because ammonia smells like urine to a dog. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Pheenix
Cane Corso
3 Months
0 found helpful
Question
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Pheenix
Cane Corso
3 Months

my boyfriend takes her outside and she will do the number one and 2 but when i take her she will only do the number 1 and it scares me because i do not want her holding herself waiting for him to come home. what can i do?

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
823 Dog owners recommended

Hello Michele, First, know that most puppies this age will only poop about 2 times per day, sometimes 3, so if pup is pooping in the morning with him, but then not again until after dinner when he comes home again, she simply may not need to go while he is away. Second, if pup may really need to go, when you take her potty, tell her to "Go Potty" and slowly walk her around on the leash for up to 15 minutes until she pees. After she pees, praise and give three treats, one at a time (to teach Go Potty and motivate her to go more quickly). After she pees, walk her around for another 10-15 minutes slowly on the leash, encouraging sniffing, and tell her to "Go Potty". If she poops, give three more treats and praise. The leash will help her stay focused, the movement helps trigger the urge to go, sniffing also helps trigger the urge to go, teaching Go Potty can help her go more quickly in the future, and the rewards help motivate her - instead of her getting distracted by play or just sitting down. Puppies tend to need to poop (if they haven't already gone lately) 15-45 minutes after eating (there is a bit of delay), after running around or getting really excited, and sometimes after waking up from a long sleep. Food and movement tend to trigger pooping the most. Most puppies will poop a bit after breakfast and a bit after dinner. Pay attention to when pup tends to go. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Lola
Cane Corso
7 Weeks
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Question
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Lola
Cane Corso
7 Weeks

I will be picking up our puppy for the first time in a 2 weeks. The first return drive portion is 30hrs and then rest in kids home for a few days then another 30 hours back home. How is it best to handle all this crate time while still trying to potty train her. Breeder has concerns with Parvo and hotel stays and says she must stay in crate.

Darlene Stott
Darlene Stott
Dog Trainer and Groomer
104 Dog owners recommended

This is a unique situation for me, but perhaps the breeder has dealt with these circumstances before. I would ask their recommendation. Luckily, the pup is young and may sleep a fair amount. Please call your vet about it as well, and ask for any safety recommendations as you travel. I would be prepared to make plenty of stops - you are going to have to let Loa out often as her little bladder will not be able to hold her pee for long. (Unless she is sleeping, of course). She'll need to stretch, too. You may have to start the crate/potty training once you get to your family's residence and for sure, again when you get home. https://wagwalking.com/training/crate-train-a-german-shepherd-puppy-at-night https://wagwalking.com/training/crate-train-a-doberman-puppy and https://wagwalking.com/training/like-a-crate. Good luck and safe travels!

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Cypress
Cane Corso Italiano (Italian Mastiff)
7 Months
0 found helpful
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Cypress
Cane Corso Italiano (Italian Mastiff)
7 Months

We got our cane corso when he was 5 weeks old and immediately started training him to go outside to potty. We have sacrificed our sleep, our business and time just to let the dog go potty. We just stopped taking him out at 12am, 1am, 3am, 5am, 6am and 7am because now he can hold it from 12am to 6am most days. We have cut our business hours just to get home to let him out and even with working a few hours a day like 4-6 hours he STILL pees in his kennel. We take him out the same times everyday and more and we give him praise and treats and NONE of these worked. We thought maybe we were giving him too much water but that for a fact is not a problem because he gets water once a day in his kennel. Anything more than the half a bowl of water we give him and he pees even more as well as throwing up. Took him to the vet no problems with his bladder or with him. I clean his kennel Out every time as well as the walls and the floors because he pisses on everything near him when we are sleeping or away. I started to tear his butt up if I caught him in the act of doing it and For a month he didn’t have one accident, he was golden. I stopped treating him as if a mother dog would her pup by grabbing the scruff of his neck and nipping at him or giving him an open handed spanking once on the rear because everyone says “dogs don’t get it” “that’s abuse how would you like it?” I had discipline and I turned out great. He had discipline and was wonderful but I got sensitive people telling me it’s never the answer and so I stopped and well, He’s started to pee in his kennel even more again and has recently decided he’s going to pee on me and my husbands foot when he gets the chance. He also is peeing ALL OVER the house when we let him out of his kennel even if he just went to the bathroom 2 mins ago outside.he will run to one spot pee there run to another and pee there then go to at least three of four other spots and it’s usually when he is right next to me so it’s not like I’m not watching him. He gives no warning and pees then takes off a few steps pees and does the same thing over and over then when I say “No!” I’m a firm but not angry voice he jumps the moves and by the time I go to open the door to let him out he’s still peeing all over leaving trails and puddles of pee. I’m starting to not like my dog anymore because of how much he’s peeing as well as starting to tear up bedding and blankets as well as terrorizing our 7 year old lab/pit. He’s becoming a nightmare. He has toys to chew on at all times again he is CONSTANTLY going outside to use the bathroom when we are here I let him out every 30 mins and after he does that I exercise him and let him potty again then take him inside and he still pees inside. Do I need to continue to discipline him? I’d rather not but, gosh it was my last resort because we have done everything.Is there any other alternatives I can take? Don’t tell me to scold him or “firmly tell him no” or any of the obvious things that I’ve done..please. I need a real alternative that I haven’t heard.

Alisha Smith
Alisha S., Dog Trainer
221 Dog owners recommended

Hello! Here is information on potty training, as well as crate training. Potty training: Know Your Pup. As you spend time with your puppy, learn your puppy’s love language. Just as some people prefer gifts, touch, or time spent together, puppies can be the same way. Some puppies love praise or pets, while others prefer treats. As you get to know your puppy, consider what reward your puppy loves the most. Create a Daily Schedule. It is best to have a routine for your puppy. A schedule helps them understand when to eat, play, and “go to the bathroom.” Your puppy should go out frequently and the routine should be the same every time. When? Start the day by taking your puppy outside, and repeating based on age and ability. They should also go out after napping, chewing, playing, and within 10 to 15 minutes of eating. Although some puppies can sleep for seven hours, it is important to set an alarm and take your pup out during the night. When you do, don’t make a fuss about it. Quietly take them outside with minimal stimulation and light. Praise them if they go to the bathroom and gently return them to their bed or crate. You don’t want them to get stimulated and ready to play in the middle of the night! As you get to know your puppy, you will become aware of their individual habits. Click here to learn more about house training schedules for puppies. Where? Take your puppy to a specific area to urinate or defecate. Be consistent. You can create an area by using urine-soaked paper or bowel movements to help create an aroma to stimulate your puppy. How? Take your puppy out on a leash so they can focus on the desired activity. This will help prevent them from wandering off to play. Once your puppy is in the selected area, use your verbal cue, such as “Hurry Up,” “Poopies,” “Go tinkle,” or any phrase your puppy responds to. What? Know the signs that your puppy has to go to the bathroom. Every animal may have a different “I gotta go” gesture, which often include restlessness, sniffing around, circling, scratching at the door, barking, and, eventually, squatting. At the first sign that your pup has to go, calmly and quickly take them outside to their bathroom spot. Deal with Accidents. Accidents are a normal part of house training a puppy. What to Do If you see your puppy in the process of urinating or defecating inappropriately, calmly and quickly interrupt them in the act. Tell them to stop (either by a jarring sound or command), and immediately take them to an appropriate location for elimination. After your puppy goes to the bathroom, lavishly praise them and offer a treat. Thoroughly clean up accidents, so your puppy is not attracted to this area again. Create a consistent feeding and watering schedule. Depending on the age of your puppy, they will eat three to four times a day. A consistent feeding routine can create a regular bathroom schedule. Take away water about 2 hours before bedtime. Learn more about ideal dog schedules here. What NOT to Do Don’t punish your puppy when they have an accident. At that point, it is too late. When a puppy has an accident in the house and they walk away, within seconds they have already forgotten about what they did. Taking them to the scene of the crime and yelling and/or rubbing their nose in it does not help and, in fact, can harm your puppy! Supervise. The best thing you can do is to prevent accidents and the best way to do this is to supervise your puppy at all times. You can tether your puppy to your waist with a five or six-foot leash and carefully observe them for signs that they need to go to the bathroom. If you can’t supervise, then crate or confine your puppy. The more accidents your puppy has in the house, the more confusing it will be for them and this can delay house training. Reward, Reward, Reward. It is important to give your puppy a reward for their good behavior. This can be for commands such as sitting and coming to you, or for appropriately eliminating outside. In a puppy, a reward can be a couple kibbles of puppy food or a treat, such as a small piece of meat. The treat should be exciting for them and only available as a result of good behavior. Crate training can take days or weeks, depending on your dog's age, temperament and past experiences. It's important to keep two things in mind while crate training: The crate should always be associated with something pleasant and training should take place in a series of small steps. Don't go too fast. Step 1: Introduce your dog to the crate Place the crate in an area of your house where the family spends a lot of time, such as the family room. Put a soft blanket or towel in the crate. Take the door off and let the dog explore the crate at their leisure. Some dogs will be naturally curious and start sleeping in the crate right away. If yours isn't one of them: Bring them over to the crate and talk to them in a happy tone of voice. Make sure the crate door is open and secured so that it won't hit your dog and frighten them. Encourage your dog to enter the crate by dropping some small food treats nearby, then just inside the door, and finally, all the way inside the crate. If they refuse to go all the way in at first, that's OK; don't force them to enter. Continue tossing treats into the crate until your dog will walk calmly all the way into the crate to get the food. If they aren’t interested in treats, try tossing a favorite toy in the crate. This step may take a few minutes or as long as several days. Step 2: Feed your dog meals in the crate After introducing your dog to the crate, begin feeding them their regular meals near the crate. This will create a pleasant association with the crate. If your dog is readily entering the crate when you begin Step 2, place the food dish all the way at the back of the crate. If they remain reluctant to enter, put the dish only as far inside as they will readily go without becoming fearful or anxious. Each time you feed them, place the dish a little further back in the crate. Once your dog is standing comfortably in the crate to eat their meal, you can close the door while they’re eating. The first time you do this, open the door as soon as they finish their meal. With each successive feeding, leave the door closed a few minutes longer, until they’re staying in the crate for 10 minutes or so after eating. If they begin to whine to be let out, you may have increased the length of time too quickly. Next time, try leaving them in the crate for a shorter time period. If they do whine or cry in the crate, don’t let them out until they stop. Otherwise, they'll learn that the way to get out of the crate is to whine, so they'll keep doing it. Step 3: Practice with longer crating periods After your dog is eating their regular meals in the crate with no sign of fear or anxiety, you can confine them there for short time periods while you're home. Call them over to the crate and give them a treat. Give them a command to enter, such as "crate." Encourage them by pointing to the inside of the crate with a treat in your hand. After your dog enters the crate, praise them, give them the treat and close the door. Sit quietly near the crate for five to 10 minutes and then go into another room for a few minutes. Return, sit quietly again for a short time and then let them out. Repeat this process several times a day, gradually increasing the length of time you leave them in the crate and the length of time you're out of sight. Once your dog will stay quietly in the crate for about 30 minutes with you mostly out of sight, you can begin leaving them crated when you're gone for short time periods and/or letting them sleep there at night. This may take several days or weeks. Step 4, Part A: Crate your dog when you leave After your dog can spend about 30 minutes in the crate without becoming anxious or afraid, you can begin leaving them crated for short periods when you leave the house. Put them in the crate using your regular command and a treat. You might also want to leave them with a few safe toys in the crate. Vary the moment during your "getting ready to leave" routine that you put your dog in the crate. Although they shouldn't be crated for a long time before you leave, you can crate them anywhere from five to 20 minutes prior to leaving. Don't make your departures emotional and prolonged—they should be matter-of-fact. Praise your dog briefly, give them a treat for entering the crate and then leave quietly. When you return home, don't reward your dog for excited behavior by responding to them in an enthusiastic way. Keep arrivals low-key to avoid increasing their anxiety over when you will return. Continue to crate your dog for short periods from time to time when you're home so they don't associate crating with being left alone. Step 4, Part B: Crate your dog at night Put your dog in the crate using your regular command and a treat. Initially, it may be a good idea to put the crate in your bedroom or nearby in a hallway, especially if you have a puppy. Puppies often need to go outside to eliminate during the night and you'll want to be able to hear your puppy when they whine to be let outside. Older dogs should also initially be kept nearby so they don't associate the crate with social isolation. Once your dog is sleeping comfortably through the night with the crate near you, you can begin to gradually move it to the location you prefer, although time spent with your dog—even sleep time—is a chance to strengthen the bond between you and your pet. Potential problems Whining: If your dog whines or cries while in the crate at night, it may be difficult to decide whether they’re whining to be let out of the crate, or whether they need to be let outside to eliminate. If you've followed the training procedures outlined above, then your dog hasn't been rewarded for whining in the past by being released from their crate. If that is the case, try to ignore the whining. If your dog is just testing you, they'll probably stop whining soon. Yelling at them or pounding on the crate will only make things worse. If the whining continues after you've ignored them for several minutes, use the phrase they associate with going outside to eliminate. If they respond and become excited, take them outside. This should be a trip with a purpose, not play time. If you're convinced that your dog doesn't need to eliminate, the best response is to ignore them until they stop whining. Don't give in; if you do, you'll teach your dog to whine loud and long to get what they want. If you've progressed gradually through the training steps and haven't done too much too fast, you'll be less likely to encounter this problem. If the problem becomes unmanageable, you may need to start the crate training process over again. Separation anxiety: Attempting to use the crate as a remedy for separation anxiety won't solve the problem. A crate may prevent your dog from being destructive, but they may get injured in an attempt to escape. Separation anxiety problems can only be resolved with counterconditioning and desensitization procedures.

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Kyra
Pitcorso
3 Months
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Kyra
Pitcorso
3 Months

My puppy will be outside for maybe an hour or so but still will wait until shes inside to use the bathroom

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
823 Dog owners recommended

Hello Xavia, Check out the crate training method from the article linked below. Using that method, you will take pup outside for about ten minutes, walking pup around to help get things going, teaching the Go Potty command, to help them learn to go faster in the future, then crating them when you bring them back inside if they don't go. After crating for a bit, you will try again, repeating the process until pup finally goes potty outside. Doing things this way prevents accidents, helps pup learn to go faster when outside, and motivates potty training. It takes a bit more work at first (although still probably less time than cleaning up lots of accidents) but makes potty training much easier and faster, with less accidents along the way, in the long run. Crate Training method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-german-shepherd-puppy-to-poop-outside

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MYLA
Cane Corso
6 Months
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MYLA
Cane Corso
6 Months

she was doing good going potty outside, well now well take her out and shell come in and go inside the house she also jumps often, and chews, but im more concerned with the potty training

Alisha Smith
Alisha S., Dog Trainer
221 Dog owners recommended

Hello! Here is information on potty training, as well as crate training just in case you decide to use a crate to help with potty training. Potty training: Know Your Pup. As you spend time with your puppy, learn your puppy’s love language. Just as some people prefer gifts, touch, or time spent together, puppies can be the same way. Some puppies love praise or pets, while others prefer treats. As you get to know your puppy, consider what reward your puppy loves the most. Create a Daily Schedule. It is best to have a routine for your puppy. A schedule helps them understand when to eat, play, and “go to the bathroom.” Your puppy should go out frequently and the routine should be the same every time. When? Start the day by taking your puppy outside, and repeating based on age and ability. They should also go out after napping, chewing, playing, and within 10 to 15 minutes of eating. Although some puppies can sleep for seven hours, it is important to set an alarm and take your pup out during the night. When you do, don’t make a fuss about it. Quietly take them outside with minimal stimulation and light. Praise them if they go to the bathroom and gently return them to their bed or crate. You don’t want them to get stimulated and ready to play in the middle of the night! As you get to know your puppy, you will become aware of their individual habits. Click here to learn more about house training schedules for puppies. Where? Take your puppy to a specific area to urinate or defecate. Be consistent. You can create an area by using urine-soaked paper or bowel movements to help create an aroma to stimulate your puppy. How? Take your puppy out on a leash so they can focus on the desired activity. This will help prevent them from wandering off to play. Once your puppy is in the selected area, use your verbal cue, such as “Hurry Up,” “Poopies,” “Go tinkle,” or any phrase your puppy responds to. What? Know the signs that your puppy has to go to the bathroom. Every animal may have a different “I gotta go” gesture, which often include restlessness, sniffing around, circling, scratching at the door, barking, and, eventually, squatting. At the first sign that your pup has to go, calmly and quickly take them outside to their bathroom spot. Deal with Accidents. Accidents are a normal part of house training a puppy. What to Do If you see your puppy in the process of urinating or defecating inappropriately, calmly and quickly interrupt them in the act. Tell them to stop (either by a jarring sound or command), and immediately take them to an appropriate location for elimination. After your puppy goes to the bathroom, lavishly praise them and offer a treat. Thoroughly clean up accidents, so your puppy is not attracted to this area again. Create a consistent feeding and watering schedule. Depending on the age of your puppy, they will eat three to four times a day. A consistent feeding routine can create a regular bathroom schedule. Take away water about 2 hours before bedtime. Learn more about ideal dog schedules here. What NOT to Do Don’t punish your puppy when they have an accident. At that point, it is too late. When a puppy has an accident in the house and they walk away, within seconds they have already forgotten about what they did. Taking them to the scene of the crime and yelling and/or rubbing their nose in it does not help and, in fact, can harm your puppy! Supervise. The best thing you can do is to prevent accidents and the best way to do this is to supervise your puppy at all times. You can tether your puppy to your waist with a five or six-foot leash and carefully observe them for signs that they need to go to the bathroom. If you can’t supervise, then crate or confine your puppy. The more accidents your puppy has in the house, the more confusing it will be for them and this can delay house training. Reward, Reward, Reward. It is important to give your puppy a reward for their good behavior. This can be for commands such as sitting and coming to you, or for appropriately eliminating outside. In a puppy, a reward can be a couple kibbles of puppy food or a treat, such as a small piece of meat. The treat should be exciting for them and only available as a result of good behavior. Crate training can take days or weeks, depending on your dog's age, temperament and past experiences. It's important to keep two things in mind while crate training: The crate should always be associated with something pleasant and training should take place in a series of small steps. Don't go too fast. Step 1: Introduce your dog to the crate Place the crate in an area of your house where the family spends a lot of time, such as the family room. Put a soft blanket or towel in the crate. Take the door off and let the dog explore the crate at their leisure. Some dogs will be naturally curious and start sleeping in the crate right away. If yours isn't one of them: Bring them over to the crate and talk to them in a happy tone of voice. Make sure the crate door is open and secured so that it won't hit your dog and frighten them. Encourage your dog to enter the crate by dropping some small food treats nearby, then just inside the door, and finally, all the way inside the crate. If they refuse to go all the way in at first, that's OK; don't force them to enter. Continue tossing treats into the crate until your dog will walk calmly all the way into the crate to get the food. If they aren’t interested in treats, try tossing a favorite toy in the crate. This step may take a few minutes or as long as several days. Step 2: Feed your dog meals in the crate After introducing your dog to the crate, begin feeding them their regular meals near the crate. This will create a pleasant association with the crate. If your dog is readily entering the crate when you begin Step 2, place the food dish all the way at the back of the crate. If they remain reluctant to enter, put the dish only as far inside as they will readily go without becoming fearful or anxious. Each time you feed them, place the dish a little further back in the crate. Once your dog is standing comfortably in the crate to eat their meal, you can close the door while they’re eating. The first time you do this, open the door as soon as they finish their meal. With each successive feeding, leave the door closed a few minutes longer, until they’re staying in the crate for 10 minutes or so after eating. If they begin to whine to be let out, you may have increased the length of time too quickly. Next time, try leaving them in the crate for a shorter time period. If they do whine or cry in the crate, don’t let them out until they stop. Otherwise, they'll learn that the way to get out of the crate is to whine, so they'll keep doing it. Step 3: Practice with longer crating periods After your dog is eating their regular meals in the crate with no sign of fear or anxiety, you can confine them there for short time periods while you're home. Call them over to the crate and give them a treat. Give them a command to enter, such as "crate." Encourage them by pointing to the inside of the crate with a treat in your hand. After your dog enters the crate, praise them, give them the treat and close the door. Sit quietly near the crate for five to 10 minutes and then go into another room for a few minutes. Return, sit quietly again for a short time and then let them out. Repeat this process several times a day, gradually increasing the length of time you leave them in the crate and the length of time you're out of sight. Once your dog will stay quietly in the crate for about 30 minutes with you mostly out of sight, you can begin leaving them crated when you're gone for short time periods and/or letting them sleep there at night. This may take several days or weeks. Step 4, Part A: Crate your dog when you leave After your dog can spend about 30 minutes in the crate without becoming anxious or afraid, you can begin leaving them crated for short periods when you leave the house. Put them in the crate using your regular command and a treat. You might also want to leave them with a few safe toys in the crate. Vary the moment during your "getting ready to leave" routine that you put your dog in the crate. Although they shouldn't be crated for a long time before you leave, you can crate them anywhere from five to 20 minutes prior to leaving. Don't make your departures emotional and prolonged—they should be matter-of-fact. Praise your dog briefly, give them a treat for entering the crate and then leave quietly. When you return home, don't reward your dog for excited behavior by responding to them in an enthusiastic way. Keep arrivals low-key to avoid increasing their anxiety over when you will return. Continue to crate your dog for short periods from time to time when you're home so they don't associate crating with being left alone. Step 4, Part B: Crate your dog at night Put your dog in the crate using your regular command and a treat. Initially, it may be a good idea to put the crate in your bedroom or nearby in a hallway, especially if you have a puppy. Puppies often need to go outside to eliminate during the night and you'll want to be able to hear your puppy when they whine to be let outside. Older dogs should also initially be kept nearby so they don't associate the crate with social isolation. Once your dog is sleeping comfortably through the night with the crate near you, you can begin to gradually move it to the location you prefer, although time spent with your dog—even sleep time—is a chance to strengthen the bond between you and your pet. Potential problems Whining: If your dog whines or cries while in the crate at night, it may be difficult to decide whether they’re whining to be let out of the crate, or whether they need to be let outside to eliminate. If you've followed the training procedures outlined above, then your dog hasn't been rewarded for whining in the past by being released from their crate. If that is the case, try to ignore the whining. If your dog is just testing you, they'll probably stop whining soon. Yelling at them or pounding on the crate will only make things worse. If the whining continues after you've ignored them for several minutes, use the phrase they associate with going outside to eliminate. If they respond and become excited, take them outside. This should be a trip with a purpose, not play time. If you're convinced that your dog doesn't need to eliminate, the best response is to ignore them until they stop whining. Don't give in; if you do, you'll teach your dog to whine loud and long to get what they want. If you've progressed gradually through the training steps and haven't done too much too fast, you'll be less likely to encounter this problem. If the problem becomes unmanageable, you may need to start the crate training process over again. Separation anxiety: Attempting to use the crate as a remedy for separation anxiety won't solve the problem. A crate may prevent your dog from being destructive, but they may get injured in an attempt to escape. Separation anxiety problems can only be resolved with counterconditioning and desensitization procedures.

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Khloe
Cane Corso
12 Weeks
0 found helpful
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Khloe
Cane Corso
12 Weeks

She did fine last week, she let me know when she had to use the bathroom, never had any accidents in the house or in her kennel .. Saturday she went to the vet, got her shots, and it seems like she forgot everything the following night, she did #1 & #2 in her kennel and she started looking at me and urinates instead of letting me know now.

Alisha Smith
Alisha S., Dog Trainer
221 Dog owners recommended

Hello! Unfortunately that is how dogs learn. They start to get a behavior learned, then either regress or plateau for a long time. To overcome this, you will just have to start fresh with the potty training. It will probably only take a day or two, but carry treats with you and go out with her. When she goes potty, give her a treat and lots of praise. Also keep her confined or in the crate while you can't keep an eye on her, and plenty of potty breaks to avoid her going in the kennel again.

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No name yet
Cane Corso
7 Weeks
0 found helpful
Question
0 found helpful
No name yet
Cane Corso
7 Weeks

Hello, my husband really wants a Cane Corso And we will be getting a new puppy here in about a month. I will be home with him and just wanted some tips on potty training. He will be the primary trainer for him but I need to have those skills to.

Alisha Smith
Alisha S., Dog Trainer
221 Dog owners recommended

Hello! Here is information on potty training, as well as crate training just in case you decide to use a crate to help with potty training. Potty training: Know Your Pup. As you spend time with your puppy, learn your puppy’s love language. Just as some people prefer gifts, touch, or time spent together, puppies can be the same way. Some puppies love praise or pets, while others prefer treats. As you get to know your puppy, consider what reward your puppy loves the most. Create a Daily Schedule. It is best to have a routine for your puppy. A schedule helps them understand when to eat, play, and “go to the bathroom.” Your puppy should go out frequently and the routine should be the same every time. When? Start the day by taking your puppy outside, and repeating based on age and ability. They should also go out after napping, chewing, playing, and within 10 to 15 minutes of eating. Although some puppies can sleep for seven hours, it is important to set an alarm and take your pup out during the night. When you do, don’t make a fuss about it. Quietly take them outside with minimal stimulation and light. Praise them if they go to the bathroom and gently return them to their bed or crate. You don’t want them to get stimulated and ready to play in the middle of the night! As you get to know your puppy, you will become aware of their individual habits. Click here to learn more about house training schedules for puppies. Where? Take your puppy to a specific area to urinate or defecate. Be consistent. You can create an area by using urine-soaked paper or bowel movements to help create an aroma to stimulate your puppy. How? Take your puppy out on a leash so they can focus on the desired activity. This will help prevent them from wandering off to play. Once your puppy is in the selected area, use your verbal cue, such as “Hurry Up,” “Poopies,” “Go tinkle,” or any phrase your puppy responds to. What? Know the signs that your puppy has to go to the bathroom. Every animal may have a different “I gotta go” gesture, which often include restlessness, sniffing around, circling, scratching at the door, barking, and, eventually, squatting. At the first sign that your pup has to go, calmly and quickly take them outside to their bathroom spot. Deal with Accidents. Accidents are a normal part of house training a puppy. What to Do If you see your puppy in the process of urinating or defecating inappropriately, calmly and quickly interrupt them in the act. Tell them to stop (either by a jarring sound or command), and immediately take them to an appropriate location for elimination. After your puppy goes to the bathroom, lavishly praise them and offer a treat. Thoroughly clean up accidents, so your puppy is not attracted to this area again. Create a consistent feeding and watering schedule. Depending on the age of your puppy, they will eat three to four times a day. A consistent feeding routine can create a regular bathroom schedule. Take away water about 2 hours before bedtime. Learn more about ideal dog schedules here. What NOT to Do Don’t punish your puppy when they have an accident. At that point, it is too late. When a puppy has an accident in the house and they walk away, within seconds they have already forgotten about what they did. Taking them to the scene of the crime and yelling and/or rubbing their nose in it does not help and, in fact, can harm your puppy! Supervise. The best thing you can do is to prevent accidents and the best way to do this is to supervise your puppy at all times. You can tether your puppy to your waist with a five or six-foot leash and carefully observe them for signs that they need to go to the bathroom. If you can’t supervise, then crate or confine your puppy. The more accidents your puppy has in the house, the more confusing it will be for them and this can delay house training. Reward, Reward, Reward. It is important to give your puppy a reward for their good behavior. This can be for commands such as sitting and coming to you, or for appropriately eliminating outside. In a puppy, a reward can be a couple kibbles of puppy food or a treat, such as a small piece of meat. The treat should be exciting for them and only available as a result of good behavior. Crate training can take days or weeks, depending on your dog's age, temperament and past experiences. It's important to keep two things in mind while crate training: The crate should always be associated with something pleasant and training should take place in a series of small steps. Don't go too fast. Step 1: Introduce your dog to the crate Place the crate in an area of your house where the family spends a lot of time, such as the family room. Put a soft blanket or towel in the crate. Take the door off and let the dog explore the crate at their leisure. Some dogs will be naturally curious and start sleeping in the crate right away. If yours isn't one of them: Bring them over to the crate and talk to them in a happy tone of voice. Make sure the crate door is open and secured so that it won't hit your dog and frighten them. Encourage your dog to enter the crate by dropping some small food treats nearby, then just inside the door, and finally, all the way inside the crate. If they refuse to go all the way in at first, that's OK; don't force them to enter. Continue tossing treats into the crate until your dog will walk calmly all the way into the crate to get the food. If they aren’t interested in treats, try tossing a favorite toy in the crate. This step may take a few minutes or as long as several days. Step 2: Feed your dog meals in the crate After introducing your dog to the crate, begin feeding them their regular meals near the crate. This will create a pleasant association with the crate. If your dog is readily entering the crate when you begin Step 2, place the food dish all the way at the back of the crate. If they remain reluctant to enter, put the dish only as far inside as they will readily go without becoming fearful or anxious. Each time you feed them, place the dish a little further back in the crate. Once your dog is standing comfortably in the crate to eat their meal, you can close the door while they’re eating. The first time you do this, open the door as soon as they finish their meal. With each successive feeding, leave the door closed a few minutes longer, until they’re staying in the crate for 10 minutes or so after eating. If they begin to whine to be let out, you may have increased the length of time too quickly. Next time, try leaving them in the crate for a shorter time period. If they do whine or cry in the crate, don’t let them out until they stop. Otherwise, they'll learn that the way to get out of the crate is to whine, so they'll keep doing it. Step 3: Practice with longer crating periods After your dog is eating their regular meals in the crate with no sign of fear or anxiety, you can confine them there for short time periods while you're home. Call them over to the crate and give them a treat. Give them a command to enter, such as "crate." Encourage them by pointing to the inside of the crate with a treat in your hand. After your dog enters the crate, praise them, give them the treat and close the door. Sit quietly near the crate for five to 10 minutes and then go into another room for a few minutes. Return, sit quietly again for a short time and then let them out. Repeat this process several times a day, gradually increasing the length of time you leave them in the crate and the length of time you're out of sight. Once your dog will stay quietly in the crate for about 30 minutes with you mostly out of sight, you can begin leaving them crated when you're gone for short time periods and/or letting them sleep there at night. This may take several days or weeks. Step 4, Part A: Crate your dog when you leave After your dog can spend about 30 minutes in the crate without becoming anxious or afraid, you can begin leaving them crated for short periods when you leave the house. Put them in the crate using your regular command and a treat. You might also want to leave them with a few safe toys in the crate. Vary the moment during your "getting ready to leave" routine that you put your dog in the crate. Although they shouldn't be crated for a long time before you leave, you can crate them anywhere from five to 20 minutes prior to leaving. Don't make your departures emotional and prolonged—they should be matter-of-fact. Praise your dog briefly, give them a treat for entering the crate and then leave quietly. When you return home, don't reward your dog for excited behavior by responding to them in an enthusiastic way. Keep arrivals low-key to avoid increasing their anxiety over when you will return. Continue to crate your dog for short periods from time to time when you're home so they don't associate crating with being left alone. Step 4, Part B: Crate your dog at night Put your dog in the crate using your regular command and a treat. Initially, it may be a good idea to put the crate in your bedroom or nearby in a hallway, especially if you have a puppy. Puppies often need to go outside to eliminate during the night and you'll want to be able to hear your puppy when they whine to be let outside. Older dogs should also initially be kept nearby so they don't associate the crate with social isolation. Once your dog is sleeping comfortably through the night with the crate near you, you can begin to gradually move it to the location you prefer, although time spent with your dog—even sleep time—is a chance to strengthen the bond between you and your pet. Potential problems Whining: If your dog whines or cries while in the crate at night, it may be difficult to decide whether they’re whining to be let out of the crate, or whether they need to be let outside to eliminate. If you've followed the training procedures outlined above, then your dog hasn't been rewarded for whining in the past by being released from their crate. If that is the case, try to ignore the whining. If your dog is just testing you, they'll probably stop whining soon. Yelling at them or pounding on the crate will only make things worse. If the whining continues after you've ignored them for several minutes, use the phrase they associate with going outside to eliminate. If they respond and become excited, take them outside. This should be a trip with a purpose, not play time. If you're convinced that your dog doesn't need to eliminate, the best response is to ignore them until they stop whining. Don't give in; if you do, you'll teach your dog to whine loud and long to get what they want. If you've progressed gradually through the training steps and haven't done too much too fast, you'll be less likely to encounter this problem. If the problem becomes unmanageable, you may need to start the crate training process over again. Separation anxiety: Attempting to use the crate as a remedy for separation anxiety won't solve the problem. A crate may prevent your dog from being destructive, but they may get injured in an attempt to escape. Separation anxiety problems can only be resolved with counterconditioning and desensitization procedures.

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Leela
Cane Corso
10 Weeks
0 found helpful
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0 found helpful
Leela
Cane Corso
10 Weeks

How do i start potty training her,and how do
I stop her from biting my other cane corso puppy

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
823 Dog owners recommended

Hello Niyathi, For the potty training, I recommend following the Crate Training or Tethering method from the article I have linked below - there are a bit more details there. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-german-shepherd-puppy-to-poop-outside For the biting, I recommend teaching pup Out and Leave It. Out - which means leave the area. https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-the-out-command/ Leave It method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Rocco
Rotticorso
12 Weeks
0 found helpful
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0 found helpful
Rocco
Rotticorso
12 Weeks

He pees and poops like a broken machine. Took him out first thing this morning, he did both 1 and 2. Took him back in, fed him and he immediately peed on floor, corrected him, brought back outside, he pooped again! How do we develop a system? Weve had him for just over a week. Prior to that he was in a barn so no previous training that we know of. And what to do with him while at work as kids do not do as instructed. Our family already has 2 dogs, a shepherd corgi-5 rescue and a terrier mix rescue-8yrs

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
823 Dog owners recommended

Hello, First, how many times in 24 hours is pup pooping? If it's more than three or they are runny I recommend visiting your vet. If something like worms is causing pup to poop extra times you will need that addressed medically to make progress more easily with potty training. I am not a vet. If things seem normally with pup physically, it may be that pup is waking up needing to go potty, then drinking a lot of water - leading to excited peeing when you feed, and then it's normal for a puppy to need to poop again 10-30 minutes after eating. In that case, I take pup potty first thing when they wake up, but then watch their water and food intake and take pup potty again after they have eaten or drank a lot - with a slight delay (10-30 minutes - pay attention to how soon after eating your pup tends to need to poop). Once pup has gone potty again after drinking a lot or eating then you can start a more normal potty schedule for the day. Common times puppies need to potty are: Right after waking up from a long sleep Right after drinking a large amount of water (some puppies drink for fun so you may have to monitor water intake at this age - giving up specific times to drink instead of leaving it out all the time) 10-30 minutes after eating After a period of high excitability or exercise (think puppy zoomies, someone getting home from work, an exciting game of fetch. Outside of those times, pup will need to go potty every 1.5 hours when not in crate, and the maximum amount of time they can hold it during the day in the crate is 3.4 hours. As far as while you are at work, I would crate train pup, provide a dog food stuffed chew toy and see if the kids can take pup out no less than every 3 hours while you are home. If they can play with pup after taking pup potty to give a bit of exercise, great, but if not, at least keep pup on a good potty and crate schedule with a dog food stuffed chew toy (you can make ahead of time and put in freezer for them to grab for pup). When you get home from work, you can give pup the mental and physical exercise they will need after being crated for the day. Surprise method: https://wagwalking.com/training/like-a-crate/ Other options are doggie daycare, a pet sitter, or dog walker. You can teach pup to go potty on a disposable real grass pad in an exercise pen, to give more space, too, but since pup is a large breed who will be going potty outside later, that could cause issues later transitioning away from indoor potty training. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Simba
Cane Corso
3 Months
0 found helpful
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0 found helpful
Simba
Cane Corso
3 Months

Potty training

Alisha Smith
Alisha S., Dog Trainer
221 Dog owners recommended

Hello! I am sending you quite a bit of information on potty and crate training just in case you want to use a crate to help with potty training Potty training: Know Your Pup. As you spend time with your puppy, learn your puppy’s love language. Just as some people prefer gifts, touch, or time spent together, puppies can be the same way. Some puppies love praise or pets, while others prefer treats. As you get to know your puppy, consider what reward your puppy loves the most. Create a Daily Schedule. It is best to have a routine for your puppy. A schedule helps them understand when to eat, play, and “go to the bathroom.” Your puppy should go out frequently and the routine should be the same every time. When? Start the day by taking your puppy outside, and repeating based on age and ability. They should also go out after napping, chewing, playing, and within 10 to 15 minutes of eating. Although some puppies can sleep for seven hours, it is important to set an alarm and take your pup out during the night. When you do, don’t make a fuss about it. Quietly take them outside with minimal stimulation and light. Praise them if they go to the bathroom and gently return them to their bed or crate. You don’t want them to get stimulated and ready to play in the middle of the night! As you get to know your puppy, you will become aware of their individual habits. Click here to learn more about house training schedules for puppies. Where? Take your puppy to a specific area to urinate or defecate. Be consistent. You can create an area by using urine-soaked paper or bowel movements to help create an aroma to stimulate your puppy. How? Take your puppy out on a leash so they can focus on the desired activity. This will help prevent them from wandering off to play. Once your puppy is in the selected area, use your verbal cue, such as “Hurry Up,” “Poopies,” “Go tinkle,” or any phrase your puppy responds to. What? Know the signs that your puppy has to go to the bathroom. Every animal may have a different “I gotta go” gesture, which often include restlessness, sniffing around, circling, scratching at the door, barking, and, eventually, squatting. At the first sign that your pup has to go, calmly and quickly take them outside to their bathroom spot. Deal with Accidents. Accidents are a normal part of house training a puppy. What to Do If you see your puppy in the process of urinating or defecating inappropriately, calmly and quickly interrupt them in the act. Tell them to stop (either by a jarring sound or command), and immediately take them to an appropriate location for elimination. After your puppy goes to the bathroom, lavishly praise them and offer a treat. Thoroughly clean up accidents, so your puppy is not attracted to this area again. Create a consistent feeding and watering schedule. Depending on the age of your puppy, they will eat three to four times a day. A consistent feeding routine can create a regular bathroom schedule. Take away water about 2 hours before bedtime. Learn more about ideal dog schedules here. What NOT to Do Don’t punish your puppy when they have an accident. At that point, it is too late. When a puppy has an accident in the house and they walk away, within seconds they have already forgotten about what they did. Taking them to the scene of the crime and yelling and/or rubbing their nose in it does not help and, in fact, can harm your puppy! Supervise. The best thing you can do is to prevent accidents and the best way to do this is to supervise your puppy at all times. You can tether your puppy to your waist with a five or six-foot leash and carefully observe them for signs that they need to go to the bathroom. If you can’t supervise, then crate or confine your puppy. The more accidents your puppy has in the house, the more confusing it will be for them and this can delay house training. Reward, Reward, Reward. It is important to give your puppy a reward for their good behavior. This can be for commands such as sitting and coming to you, or for appropriately eliminating outside. In a puppy, a reward can be a couple kibbles of puppy food or a treat, such as a small piece of meat. The treat should be exciting for them and only available as a result of good behavior. Crate training can take days or weeks, depending on your dog's age, temperament and past experiences. It's important to keep two things in mind while crate training: The crate should always be associated with something pleasant and training should take place in a series of small steps. Don't go too fast. Step 1: Introduce your dog to the crate Place the crate in an area of your house where the family spends a lot of time, such as the family room. Put a soft blanket or towel in the crate. Take the door off and let the dog explore the crate at their leisure. Some dogs will be naturally curious and start sleeping in the crate right away. If yours isn't one of them: Bring them over to the crate and talk to them in a happy tone of voice. Make sure the crate door is open and secured so that it won't hit your dog and frighten them. Encourage your dog to enter the crate by dropping some small food treats nearby, then just inside the door, and finally, all the way inside the crate. If they refuse to go all the way in at first, that's OK; don't force them to enter. Continue tossing treats into the crate until your dog will walk calmly all the way into the crate to get the food. If they aren’t interested in treats, try tossing a favorite toy in the crate. This step may take a few minutes or as long as several days. Step 2: Feed your dog meals in the crate After introducing your dog to the crate, begin feeding them their regular meals near the crate. This will create a pleasant association with the crate. If your dog is readily entering the crate when you begin Step 2, place the food dish all the way at the back of the crate. If they remain reluctant to enter, put the dish only as far inside as they will readily go without becoming fearful or anxious. Each time you feed them, place the dish a little further back in the crate. Once your dog is standing comfortably in the crate to eat their meal, you can close the door while they’re eating. The first time you do this, open the door as soon as they finish their meal. With each successive feeding, leave the door closed a few minutes longer, until they’re staying in the crate for 10 minutes or so after eating. If they begin to whine to be let out, you may have increased the length of time too quickly. Next time, try leaving them in the crate for a shorter time period. If they do whine or cry in the crate, don’t let them out until they stop. Otherwise, they'll learn that the way to get out of the crate is to whine, so they'll keep doing it. Step 3: Practice with longer crating periods After your dog is eating their regular meals in the crate with no sign of fear or anxiety, you can confine them there for short time periods while you're home. Call them over to the crate and give them a treat. Give them a command to enter, such as "crate." Encourage them by pointing to the inside of the crate with a treat in your hand. After your dog enters the crate, praise them, give them the treat and close the door. Sit quietly near the crate for five to 10 minutes and then go into another room for a few minutes. Return, sit quietly again for a short time and then let them out. Repeat this process several times a day, gradually increasing the length of time you leave them in the crate and the length of time you're out of sight. Once your dog will stay quietly in the crate for about 30 minutes with you mostly out of sight, you can begin leaving them crated when you're gone for short time periods and/or letting them sleep there at night. This may take several days or weeks. Step 4, Part A: Crate your dog when you leave After your dog can spend about 30 minutes in the crate without becoming anxious or afraid, you can begin leaving them crated for short periods when you leave the house. Put them in the crate using your regular command and a treat. You might also want to leave them with a few safe toys in the crate. Vary the moment during your "getting ready to leave" routine that you put your dog in the crate. Although they shouldn't be crated for a long time before you leave, you can crate them anywhere from five to 20 minutes prior to leaving. Don't make your departures emotional and prolonged—they should be matter-of-fact. Praise your dog briefly, give them a treat for entering the crate and then leave quietly. When you return home, don't reward your dog for excited behavior by responding to them in an enthusiastic way. Keep arrivals low-key to avoid increasing their anxiety over when you will return. Continue to crate your dog for short periods from time to time when you're home so they don't associate crating with being left alone. Step 4, Part B: Crate your dog at night Put your dog in the crate using your regular command and a treat. Initially, it may be a good idea to put the crate in your bedroom or nearby in a hallway, especially if you have a puppy. Puppies often need to go outside to eliminate during the night and you'll want to be able to hear your puppy when they whine to be let outside. Older dogs should also initially be kept nearby so they don't associate the crate with social isolation. Once your dog is sleeping comfortably through the night with the crate near you, you can begin to gradually move it to the location you prefer, although time spent with your dog—even sleep time—is a chance to strengthen the bond between you and your pet. Potential problems Whining: If your dog whines or cries while in the crate at night, it may be difficult to decide whether they’re whining to be let out of the crate, or whether they need to be let outside to eliminate. If you've followed the training procedures outlined above, then your dog hasn't been rewarded for whining in the past by being released from their crate. If that is the case, try to ignore the whining. If your dog is just testing you, they'll probably stop whining soon. Yelling at them or pounding on the crate will only make things worse. If the whining continues after you've ignored them for several minutes, use the phrase they associate with going outside to eliminate. If they respond and become excited, take them outside. This should be a trip with a purpose, not play time. If you're convinced that your dog doesn't need to eliminate, the best response is to ignore them until they stop whining. Don't give in; if you do, you'll teach your dog to whine loud and long to get what they want. If you've progressed gradually through the training steps and haven't done too much too fast, you'll be less likely to encounter this problem. If the problem becomes unmanageable, you may need to start the crate training process over again. Separation anxiety: Attempting to use the crate as a remedy for separation anxiety won't solve the problem. A crate may prevent your dog from being destructive, but they may get injured in an attempt to escape. Separation anxiety problems can only be resolved with counterconditioning and desensitization procedures.

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Hando
Cane Corso
5 Months
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Hando
Cane Corso
5 Months

Hando, is marking and will be nurtured on Feb 10th 2021, however until then is there anything I can do? he will pee when I am standing right next to him. he is also still getting up 2 or 3 times a night is this normal? His Kennel is still in my room, should I move it?

Alisha Smith
Alisha S., Dog Trainer
221 Dog owners recommended

Hello! Individually and in combination, the following strategies can help stop the marking: 1. Employ management. The first step in correcting a marking issue involves diligent management in an effort to stop the rehearsal of unwanted behavior. Keep a close eye on your dog – no unsupervised time! – so you’re able to immediately interrupt all attempts to mark and redirect his efforts to “go” outside. When you can’t supervise, consider confining your dog to an x-pen or crate, or use baby gates to create an area small enough to deter soiling. If marking is limited to a specific room, restrict access to the area for at least a month (the same benchmark as housetraining). Some clients report success moving their dogs’ food and water to the problem area, as most dogs won’t mess where they eat. Often, employing diligent management to prevent the behavior is enough to offer long-term improvement. 2. Reduce stress. Identify events in your dog’s life that might create stress. Some stressors can be tricky. For example, many owners think showering their dogs with endless treats while requiring little in terms of basic obedience is a wonderful way to convey love. Unfortunately, a lack of basic structure often contributes to anxiety, especially in multiple-dog households. While I’m not a fan of rigid “leadership” protocols, I believe dogs do best when taught a basic skillset designed to create a working partnership with their humans, whose job it is to ensure the well being of everyone in the household. If marking mostly happens when you aren’t home, your dog might be anxious being alone. Be sure to keep departures and arrivals low-key to reduce the tension of an already emotional event for your dog. Teaching your dog to accept time away from you – even when you’re home – can also help reduce anxiety when you leave. Also, be mindful of potentially scary noises that might be causing anxiety – for example, the ear-piercing back-up beep of the garbage truck on trash day. Often, once you’ve identified the trigger, you can successfully counter-condition your dog’s emotional response. Anxiety can be a tricky issue to overcome. Some dogs respond well to homeopathic remedies or flower essence blends designed to reduce anxiety. Another option is Adaptil, a pheromone-based product available as a plug-in diffuser or a collar. Adaptil products release pheromones involved in the attachment process between a nursing dog and her offspring, offering an olfactory message of comfort and security. In some cases, pharmaceutical intervention might be necessary. 3. Clean soiled areas. Use an enzymatic cleaner such as Nature’s Miracle to thoroughly clean urine spots in the home. Avoid ammonia-based cleaners. Urine contains ammonia, and such products can encourage further marking. If moving into a new home formerly occupied by dogs, consider professionally cleaning or replacing the carpet to reduce your dog’s desire to mark over existing animal scent. If this isn’t possible, use a black light to search for potential problem areas. 4. Consider neutering. While not a guaranteed fix, neutering your dog, especially before he reaches full sexual maturity (12 to 15 months), is likely to reduce or eliminate his tendency to mark by stopping the influence of hormones. 5. Discourage all marking, even outdoors. In some cases, the act of marking becomes a well-practiced habit that remains even after removing environmental stressors or choosing to neuter (especially among dogs neutered later in life). In such cases, I recommend drawing a hard line when it comes to marking, even outdoors. When on a walk, give your dog an opportunity to fully void his bladder, then quickly but casually interrupt all subsequent attempts to leave his calling card throughout the neighborhood. It need not be a dramatic interruption; simply keep walking as your dog attempts to mark, almost like you hadn’t noticed. 6. Most importantly, don’t punish! Remember that inappropriate marking is a stress response. Calmly interrupting a dog as he’s marking is one thing. Reprimanding him after the fact will make things worse. Unless you intervene as it’s happening, your dog won’t connect your displeasure with his marking. He might look guilty as you reprimand him, but that look is an attempt to appease you in that moment – not because he realizes his marking, which took place however long ago, is unwanted.

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