How to Potty Train a Pekingese Puppy

How to Potty Train a Pekingese Puppy
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Time icon1-6 Months
General training category iconGeneral

Introduction

The Pekingese is well-known for being incredibly stubborn, which can prove to make potty training your pup more than just challenging. If you want potty training to succeed, you must be patient, consistent in your efforts, and most of all be able to "out stubborn" your pup. It can take up to a full six months for your pup to fully master this very important skill. But, unless you want to spend your dog's life cleaning up after him, you need to keep working with him until he is properly potty trained. 

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Defining Tasks

The task at hand is to potty train your Pekingese pup that it is not okay for him to relieve himself wherever he feels like it in your home. You can teach him that the only place he is allowed to go is outside or, if you prefer, in a puppy litter box (yes, they do make them). Keep in mind that these little guys are not exactly very active, so they don't do well in extremes of heat or cold. If you're going to teach your pup to go outside only, try to find a spot that is well-sheltered to turn into his potty. 

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Getting Started

Because this particular breed can be harder than most to train, you will definitely need plenty of patience and to be as consistent as possible in order to succeed. Like many other things you want to teach your pup, the only way to success is repetition, positive reinforcement, and time. You will need a few supplies, including:

  • A crate – For training and somewhere you can put him when you need to be out for a while
  • A litter box – A puppy litter box or tray for indoor use
  • A leash – For training purposes
  • Treats – To use as rewards
  • Puppy potty spray – For training purposes.
  • Potty pads – For training purposes

No matter which of the various training methods you choose, you need to have the time to work with your pup as often as you can. This is the only way he will finally figure out where he is supposed to go potty and that it is not okay for him to go anywhere else. 

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The Litter Box Method

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1

At the store

Head out to your local pet supply store and pick up a "puppy" litter box (they are designed differently than those made for cats, some treats, a bag of kitty litter, and a gallon or two of patience.

2

Place the litter box

Find a safe spot for the litter box in your home, preferably one where the floor isn't carpeted. Place the litter box there and add the litter to it.

3

Observe your pup

Keep a close eye on your pup and when he starts to exhibit the first signs he might be thinking about going potty (whining, circling a spot on the floor, becoming agitated, or sniffing around), take him straight to his litter box and place him in it.

4

If he won't go

If your pup doesn’t go this time, take him out of the box and wait until he starts to fuss again before you take him back to it. When he goes, be sure to praise him and give him a treat.

5

One last thought

Some dogs need the smell of urine in the box to help them understand that this is the spot they are allowed to use for a potty. There are readily available attractant sprays that can help with this.

The Chosen Spot Method

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1

Go to the store

Go to your local pet supplies store and pick up a bottle of puppy potty training spray. You want the one designed for outdoor use.

2

Create a bathroom

Choose a spot in your yard that your pup can use as his personal bathroom. Apply the training spray liberally, let it dry, and then go inside for your pup.

3

Attach your pup

Attach your pup to his leash, take him outside, and straight over to the spot in the grass that you recently marked. Let him sniff around, the scent should help create the urge to pee and mark his territory. When he goes, be sure to give him a treat and praise him. This will help him to associate good things with waiting to go potty in the marked area.

4

If he doesn't go

Your pup may not go right away, but give him a little time and he may not be able to resist. If for any reason he simply won't go, take him back inside Wait for a few minutes and then take him back outside. When he goes, praise him and give him a treat.

5

Keep it up

Keep working with your pup, slowly extending the time he has to wait between outings until he can hold himself for several hours at a time. Mission accomplished.

The Timer Method

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Use a timer

Start by making sure you have a timer you can use to train your pup. It can be any kind of timer, a kitchen timer, a watch, the timer on your microwave. Just as long as you can set it in 30-minute increments.

2

Set the schedule

Start out by setting the timer to 30 minutes and taking your pup outside to go potty. If he doesn’t go, no problem. Come back inside, start the timer and watch your pup closely. If he even looks like he might be thinking about going potty, take him straight outside, if do so not at the end of the thirty minutes.

3

Wait patiently

Give your pup 15 minutes to wander around his area of the backyard to go potty. If he goes, be sure to praise him and give him a treat.

4

If he doesn't go

If for any reason your pup has not done his business after 15 minutes, take him back inside and try again in another 30 minutes. Of course, if he gives any sign he needs to go, take him out immediately.

5

Work on it

From here you need to work on extending the time between potty breaks, start at 30 minutes and increase the time by 30 minutes each time until your Pekingese can hold it for as long as needed. Keep in mind that puppies can typically only "hold it" for about one hour per month of their age.

Written by PB Getz

Veterinary reviewed by:

Published: 02/23/2018, edited: 01/08/2021

Training Questions

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Training Questions and Answers

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Tippi

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Pekinese

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11 Weeks

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Our puppy went to potty on pads for 3 days after we got him but now it’s hit or miss I take him out regularly but he’s going a lot wherever he chooses

June 27, 2022

Tippi's Owner

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Caitlin Crittenden - Dog Trainer

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1128 Dog owners recommended

Hello Kate, Are you wanting to potty train pup to go potty outside, or to go potty on a pad inside, or both? For outside potty training, I recommend following the Crate Training method from the article I have linked below. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-german-shepherd-puppy-to-poop-outside For inside potty training, I recommend the Exercise Pen method or crate training method from the article below. This method mentions an doggie litter box, but it can also be used with pee pads disposable real grass pads too (good alternative to pee pads for dogs who confuse pee pad fabric with carpet and rugs, or dogs who are learning to go potty on grass outside also, for consistency). Exercise Pen method and Crate Training method: https://wagwalking.com/training/litter-box-train-a-chihuahua-puppy Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

June 27, 2022

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Nano

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Pekingese

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7 Months

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Hkw to train him to know where he poops and pee?

March 6, 2021

Nano's Owner

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Alisha Smith - Alisha S., Dog Trainer

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Hello! I am sending you quite a bit of information on potty and crate training just in case you want to use the crate to help with potty training. Potty training: Know Your Pup. As you spend time with your puppy, learn your puppy’s love language. Just as some people prefer gifts, touch, or time spent together, puppies can be the same way. Some puppies love praise or pets, while others prefer treats. As you get to know your puppy, consider what reward your puppy loves the most. Create a Daily Schedule. It is best to have a routine for your puppy. A schedule helps them understand when to eat, play, and “go to the bathroom.” Your puppy should go out frequently and the routine should be the same every time. When? Start the day by taking your puppy outside, and repeating based on age and ability. They should also go out after napping, chewing, playing, and within 10 to 15 minutes of eating. Although some puppies can sleep for seven hours, it is important to set an alarm and take your pup out during the night. When you do, don’t make a fuss about it. Quietly take them outside with minimal stimulation and light. Praise them if they go to the bathroom and gently return them to their bed or crate. You don’t want them to get stimulated and ready to play in the middle of the night! As you get to know your puppy, you will become aware of their individual habits. Click here to learn more about house training schedules for puppies. Where? Take your puppy to a specific area to urinate or defecate. Be consistent. You can create an area by using urine-soaked paper or bowel movements to help create an aroma to stimulate your puppy. How? Take your puppy out on a leash so they can focus on the desired activity. This will help prevent them from wandering off to play. Once your puppy is in the selected area, use your verbal cue, such as “Hurry Up,” “Poopies,” “Go tinkle,” or any phrase your puppy responds to. What? Know the signs that your puppy has to go to the bathroom. Every animal may have a different “I gotta go” gesture, which often include restlessness, sniffing around, circling, scratching at the door, barking, and, eventually, squatting. At the first sign that your pup has to go, calmly and quickly take them outside to their bathroom spot. Deal with Accidents. Accidents are a normal part of house training a puppy. What to Do If you see your puppy in the process of urinating or defecating inappropriately, calmly and quickly interrupt them in the act. Tell them to stop (either by a jarring sound or command), and immediately take them to an appropriate location for elimination. After your puppy goes to the bathroom, lavishly praise them and offer a treat. Thoroughly clean up accidents, so your puppy is not attracted to this area again. Create a consistent feeding and watering schedule. Depending on the age of your puppy, they will eat three to four times a day. A consistent feeding routine can create a regular bathroom schedule. Take away water about 2 hours before bedtime. Learn more about ideal dog schedules here. What NOT to Do Don’t punish your puppy when they have an accident. At that point, it is too late. When a puppy has an accident in the house and they walk away, within seconds they have already forgotten about what they did. Taking them to the scene of the crime and yelling and/or rubbing their nose in it does not help and, in fact, can harm your puppy! Supervise. The best thing you can do is to prevent accidents and the best way to do this is to supervise your puppy at all times. You can tether your puppy to your waist with a five or six-foot leash and carefully observe them for signs that they need to go to the bathroom. If you can’t supervise, then crate or confine your puppy. The more accidents your puppy has in the house, the more confusing it will be for them and this can delay house training. Reward, Reward, Reward. It is important to give your puppy a reward for their good behavior. This can be for commands such as sitting and coming to you, or for appropriately eliminating outside. In a puppy, a reward can be a couple kibbles of puppy food or a treat, such as a small piece of meat. The treat should be exciting for them and only available as a result of good behavior. Crate training can take days or weeks, depending on your dog's age, temperament and past experiences. It's important to keep two things in mind while crate training: The crate should always be associated with something pleasant and training should take place in a series of small steps. Don't go too fast. Step 1: Introduce your dog to the crate Place the crate in an area of your house where the family spends a lot of time, such as the family room. Put a soft blanket or towel in the crate. Take the door off and let the dog explore the crate at their leisure. Some dogs will be naturally curious and start sleeping in the crate right away. If yours isn't one of them: Bring them over to the crate and talk to them in a happy tone of voice. Make sure the crate door is open and secured so that it won't hit your dog and frighten them. Encourage your dog to enter the crate by dropping some small food treats nearby, then just inside the door, and finally, all the way inside the crate. If they refuse to go all the way in at first, that's OK; don't force them to enter. Continue tossing treats into the crate until your dog will walk calmly all the way into the crate to get the food. If they aren’t interested in treats, try tossing a favorite toy in the crate. This step may take a few minutes or as long as several days. Step 2: Feed your dog meals in the crate After introducing your dog to the crate, begin feeding them their regular meals near the crate. This will create a pleasant association with the crate. If your dog is readily entering the crate when you begin Step 2, place the food dish all the way at the back of the crate. If they remain reluctant to enter, put the dish only as far inside as they will readily go without becoming fearful or anxious. Each time you feed them, place the dish a little further back in the crate. Once your dog is standing comfortably in the crate to eat their meal, you can close the door while they’re eating. The first time you do this, open the door as soon as they finish their meal. With each successive feeding, leave the door closed a few minutes longer, until they’re staying in the crate for 10 minutes or so after eating. If they begin to whine to be let out, you may have increased the length of time too quickly. Next time, try leaving them in the crate for a shorter time period. If they do whine or cry in the crate, don’t let them out until they stop. Otherwise, they'll learn that the way to get out of the crate is to whine, so they'll keep doing it. Step 3: Practice with longer crating periods After your dog is eating their regular meals in the crate with no sign of fear or anxiety, you can confine them there for short time periods while you're home. Call them over to the crate and give them a treat. Give them a command to enter, such as "crate." Encourage them by pointing to the inside of the crate with a treat in your hand. After your dog enters the crate, praise them, give them the treat and close the door. Sit quietly near the crate for five to 10 minutes and then go into another room for a few minutes. Return, sit quietly again for a short time and then let them out. Repeat this process several times a day, gradually increasing the length of time you leave them in the crate and the length of time you're out of sight. Once your dog will stay quietly in the crate for about 30 minutes with you mostly out of sight, you can begin leaving them crated when you're gone for short time periods and/or letting them sleep there at night. This may take several days or weeks. Step 4, Part A: Crate your dog when you leave After your dog can spend about 30 minutes in the crate without becoming anxious or afraid, you can begin leaving them crated for short periods when you leave the house. Put them in the crate using your regular command and a treat. You might also want to leave them with a few safe toys in the crate. Vary the moment during your "getting ready to leave" routine that you put your dog in the crate. Although they shouldn't be crated for a long time before you leave, you can crate them anywhere from five to 20 minutes prior to leaving. Don't make your departures emotional and prolonged—they should be matter-of-fact. Praise your dog briefly, give them a treat for entering the crate and then leave quietly. When you return home, don't reward your dog for excited behavior by responding to them in an enthusiastic way. Keep arrivals low-key to avoid increasing their anxiety over when you will return. Continue to crate your dog for short periods from time to time when you're home so they don't associate crating with being left alone. Step 4, Part B: Crate your dog at night Put your dog in the crate using your regular command and a treat. Initially, it may be a good idea to put the crate in your bedroom or nearby in a hallway, especially if you have a puppy. Puppies often need to go outside to eliminate during the night and you'll want to be able to hear your puppy when they whine to be let outside. Older dogs should also initially be kept nearby so they don't associate the crate with social isolation. Once your dog is sleeping comfortably through the night with the crate near you, you can begin to gradually move it to the location you prefer, although time spent with your dog—even sleep time—is a chance to strengthen the bond between you and your pet. Potential problems Whining: If your dog whines or cries while in the crate at night, it may be difficult to decide whether they’re whining to be let out of the crate, or whether they need to be let outside to eliminate. If you've followed the training procedures outlined above, then your dog hasn't been rewarded for whining in the past by being released from their crate. If that is the case, try to ignore the whining. If your dog is just testing you, they'll probably stop whining soon. Yelling at them or pounding on the crate will only make things worse. If the whining continues after you've ignored them for several minutes, use the phrase they associate with going outside to eliminate. If they respond and become excited, take them outside. This should be a trip with a purpose, not play time. If you're convinced that your dog doesn't need to eliminate, the best response is to ignore them until they stop whining. Don't give in; if you do, you'll teach your dog to whine loud and long to get what they want. If you've progressed gradually through the training steps and haven't done too much too fast, you'll be less likely to encounter this problem. If the problem becomes unmanageable, you may need to start the crate training process over again. Separation anxiety: Attempting to use the crate as a remedy for separation anxiety won't solve the problem. A crate may prevent your dog from being destructive, but they may get injured in an attempt to escape. Separation anxiety problems can only be resolved with counterconditioning and desensitization procedures.

March 6, 2021


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