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When you’ve taken your dog for a quick stroll in the evening and you see a loud and slightly intimidating group across the road, having your protective dog at your side can certainly put you at ease. As soon as someone comes within 10 feet of you he starts to growl and stares menacingly. He’s also the same when someone comes to the door. The postman must dread having to approach the steps, knowing there’s a fierce guard dog on the other side of the door.
While this protective nature can come in handy at times, it also prevents you being able to embrace friends and family. If you can train your dog to stop being so protective you’ll no longer be known as the ‘neighbor with the terrifying dog.’ You also won’t have to worry about him going too far one day and biting somebody.
Training will be a gradual process where you socialize your dog with other people and pets. You’ll need to gradually bring his guard down and show him that it isn’t his responsibility to protect you. You will need to alter his position in the perceived pack so he won’t always leap to your defense. If he’s a puppy and the protective nature is only a recent development, then it may take just a couple of weeks to tackle. If this protective aggression has been going on for years, you may need up to 6 weeks to stamp it out entirely.
Getting this training right is essential if you want to avoid an accident one day. All it takes is a one-off when somebody accidentally gets too close and your dog bites them in a panic. That could result in serious injury or even a court order to have him put down.
Before you can get going, you’ll need to gather a few things. A secure leash and a body harness will be needed to ensure you retain control and to reduce strain on your dog's neck.
Your furry companion's favorite food or some tasty treats he cannot resist will also play a vital role. These will be used to motivate and reward him throughout training. You’ll also need to set aside 10 minutes each day for training in a quiet space, away from distractions.
Once you’ve got all of that, you’re ready to get to work!
The Gradual Introduction Method
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Most Recommended
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Approach slowly
When your canine companion is about to meet a new person or pet, approach them very slowly. Keep him on a leash, securely at your side.
Reward
As you approach the new person or pet, quietly praise him for as long as he remains calm. You can even give him the odd treat to reinforce that this is the behavior you want to see.
React promptly
As soon as he does start to display signs of aggression, turn around and pull him away. Walk away from the person or pet until he has fully calmed down. Once he has, you can turn back around and slowly approach again. It may take several attempts before you can get within 10 feet.
Stop within 10 feet
At 10 feet, you need to calm the storm again. Have him ‘sit’ or ‘drop’ and then instruct him to ‘wait.’ You then need to position yourself in between him and the strangers to show him you are pack leader, and therefore it is you that is responsible for protecting him and not the other way round.
Be consistent
You need to use these steps whenever you approach new people and animals over the next few weeks. Each slip up you have will set back the end result. So take it slow, retain control and reinforce calm behavior constantly.
The Perception Method
Effective
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Effective
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Secure the leash
Whenever anybody comes to the house or an unknown person approaches, have your dog securely on a leash. Also, ensure you are in front of him. If he is between you and the approaching person, he will feel like leader of the pack and responsible for protecting you.
Be confident
Dogs mirror their owners' behavior and pick up on their emotions. If he can sense you are worried (probably about his reaction) then he’ll be more likely to panic himself and get aggressive. So be calm, confident, and assertive and it will put him at ease.
Always react
If he does start to bark or show any signs of aggression, quickly shout "NO". Don’t terrify your dog, but make sure he knows you mean business. At the same time, give the leash a quick pull to reinforce the point.
Practice obedience commands
Teach your dog to ‘sit’, ‘roll over’ and any number of other things. This training will help cement your position as the pack leader and will give you the best chance of retaining control in testing situations.
Show him you are leader
Make your dog wait for his food, make him wait a minute before you take him out for a walk. By doing this, you’re showing him who is in control. If he knows you’re always in control he won’t feel the need to be protective over you in the first place.
The Crack Down Method
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Least Recommended
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Stop over indulging
If your dog gets unlimited attention and doesn’t have to abide by any rules, then curbing his aggression will always be a challenge. Set rules to assert your position as the pack leader. It could be no climbing on furniture, only going to the toilet in specific places, etc.
Exercise
It may sound crazy, but a lot of aggression stems from built up energy. Give your dog an extra walk each day or walk him for longer. If this isn’t possible, play fetch during the walk--the constant short sprints will tire him out. If he’s knackered, he won’t have the energy to defend you from everyone you meet each day.
Desensitize
If your dog is going to meet a new person or pet for the first time, introduce them carefully. Keep him at a distance and show your dog that he’s got nothing to worry about by being calm and confident around that person.
Avoid his territory
It will also help to meet new people and pets outside of his territory to start with. If they come into the room where his bed is he will feel like he needs to defend you in his area. Instead, meet people outside or in a room he’s less familiar with.
Never punish him
If your dog does show aggression, don’t punish him. Doing this will only scare him more, increasing the chances of him being aggressive the next time. Instead, calmly remove him from the situation. Don’t give his aggressive behavior any attention.
Written by James Barra
Veterinary reviewed by:
Published: 11/07/2017, edited: 01/08/2021
Training Questions and Answers
Part 1 Buddy is my foster and has been with me for more than 3 months now. When he started with us he did fine with everyone around (people). But now he has started getting protective of my husband and barks/growls/trys to bite people on street if he feels he should step up. Just last week, we had a friend over and buddy greeted her really nice, he was so happy to see her, just did let het move for a good 5 minutes. Once he came in and sat. She brough us some food and once buddy saw that his reaction changed a lot, he got really aggressive with her within next 2 min.
April 10, 2023
Buddy's Owner
Caitlin Crittenden - Dog Trainer
1128 Dog owners recommended
Hello, I highly recommend working with a trainer who specializes in behavior issues like aggression in person for this issue. Look for a trainer who works with a team of trainers, so that there are multiple people to practice the training around who are "strangers" to pup and know how to interact safely with aggressive dogs. It sounds like, in addition to possessiveness over your husband, Buddy may also be a resource guarder of food too. Possessiveness looks like protectiveness but is a bit different in that with protectiveness pup perceives a threat they are fearful or distrustful of and take it upon themselves to remove the threat to protect the person. With possessiveness pup views the person as something they own and react aggressively if someone tries to get near to that person or interact with that person in a way they don't like, much like guarding a bone. Possessiveness is thus also a trust and respect issue toward the person they are possessive of so in addition to building trust with strangers, respect needs to be gently and carefully built with the owners too through obedience command practice and a lot of structure in the home so pup isn't trying to exert control over that person and who can interact with them. Without seeing pup in person, I cannot guarantee that that's what's happening though. A lot of body language needs to be observed in different situations to tell for sure. This process typically involves things like gently building pup's overall respect, trust, and listening with you to that pup doesn't think they own you and so that their behavior is easier to manage and so that they feel more secure and can defer to your leadership when in situations that make them uncomfortable. It also tends to involve gradually desensitizing pup to people, one at a time, with safety measures like a back tie leash or basket muzzle in place (introduced gradually ahead of time using treats so it's not just associated with the training and stressful), starting with people being further away at first, and working on pup's obedience with you around the people in the background to help pup remain calm and not get overly aroused and fixated on the other person. This can sometimes also involve interrupting pup's aroused state, but that should only be done under the guidance of the trainer and with proper safety measures in place, because with any aggression there is always the risk of the dog redirecting their aggression to whoever is closest when stressed. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
April 10, 2023
We have two dogs Annie (2y) and Desmond (7y) they are both australian cattle dogs mixes. They are very protective of our yard and are quite barky, but the problem is that (with tall men especially) they have become more aggressive. We had a lot of success with training Desmond when it was just him, but it is hard to train them together, any recommendations for working with both dogs or should we try to separate them (like having one play with another person outside while we train with the other dog inside?). Thanks for any advice, Gwen
Feb. 26, 2023
Annie's Owner
Caitlin Crittenden - Dog Trainer
1128 Dog owners recommended
Hello, Two dogs will often feed off of each other, and another dog is also a pretty big distraction. Once dog will typically be the instigator and the other dog will often take cues from that one. I would work with them separately first, until both are good separately. See if you can determine who is the bigger instigator, and make sure you are really making progress with that dog alone, before combining. Once they are trained separately, its going to feel like starting over when you first put them together again. Go back to your basics that you did with each separately with them together, and work them back up together now. They need to learn self control while around the other dog too. In your training, direct more of the training at the instigator if you can't work with both equally. This will be far easier if you have two people training when you first start with them together again. When they are doing well together, you do want them to progress to being able to respond to just you. Plan ahead for safety and the ability to reward and interrupt. Things like back tie leashes so you can be hands free and move about, working level remote collar training when appropriate, and soft treats like freeze dried meat treats, can help you move between dogs more easily. Set up your training sessions intentionally, rather than just waiting for a stranger to arrive for repairs or a visit. Hiring a training group with multiple trainers on staff can help with them. It can provide numerous people who know how to work with your dog, to come to your home and pretend to be a stranger, with controlled situations and safety measures, so you can repeat the training over and over to make progress, control distance and level of interaction, and avoid things that might make the training worse, like someone getting angry, acting really afraid, or approaching the dogs before they are ready. Desensitizing to a basket muzzle is also a good idea, so that you can use that later if needed to train. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
March 1, 2023