You’re out on a pleasant walk through the countryside, the sun is out and life is good, but every 5 seconds you’re pulled in every which direction by your old, but surprisingly strong dog. The problem is even worse if he sees a dog on the horizon, or a stranger approaching. Are you finally ready to concede it’s time to get a handle on his pulling? After all, it’s better late than never!
Walking with a dog who can’t control themselves on a leash is simply exhausting. You simply can’t relax on a walk when it’s really him walking you. Plus, you may have aged along with him, and your shoulder sockets and arms simply aren’t as resilient as they once were. You don’t want to be pulled to the ground just because a dog crossed the road 100 meters away. Solving this issue will give you the calm and relaxing walks you deserve!
"Heel" is one word that could save you considerable aggravation and make the relaxing dog walking fantasy you once had many years ago a reality. Unfortunately, teaching your dog to walk calmly on a leash is never straightforward. His senses are sent into overdrive when he leaves the house and comes across so many varied and often unpleasant smells.
The problem is worsened if he is old. Puppies respond to training quickly, but older dogs' bad habits have often cemented over the years, so you have an uphill battle ahead. Having said that, with patience and consistency, you could have a calm and well-behaved dog trotting alongside you in just a few weeks, if you follow the methods below. It’s important to finally get a handle on his behavior on a leash, not only for your sanity, but also to prevent a serious accident ever taking place, such as him leaping across a busy road.
Before you get going with training, you need to ensure you’re fully stocked on doggie treats. You can use pre-made treats, or you can simply break his favorite food into small bits. You will also need some quiet space, free from distractions.
A secure training leash and possibly a harness will also be essential. Aside from that, bring all the patience you can find and an optimistic attitude. With all that, you're ready to get to work.
Now you’re fully stocked on essentials, it’s time to put him on a leash and address that mischievous behavior.
When I walk Jojo, she doesn't pull on the leash for our entire walk. But when we pass by other dogs, she seems to get pretty aggressive. Any tips? Thanks!
Hello Justin, Does JoJo act aggressively when she actually meets dogs also? Many dogs act aggressively when on the leash but not when interacting with dogs up close. Those dogs have what is called Leash Reactivity, and it is often caused by frustration or fear rather than true aggression. For Leash Reactive dogs you can work on making dog sightings more pleasant. To do this, whenever you see a dog from far away, before JoJo reacts poorly, praise her in an upbeat tone of voice and offer him a treat for remaining calmly or looking at you for direction. It is important for you to stay far away from the dog for her to know that it is there but still remain calm. You do not want to reward her rude barking and growling behavior but she also will struggle to learn when she is in that excited state. Practice bringing her around other dogs at a distance often. As she improves then you can very gradually decrease the distance between you and the other dog. The other thing you can do is to teach her a very structured heel, where she has to remain right beside you and focused on you. When you approach another dog then have her follow you closely in the heel position while you make a lot of turns, have her do sits and downs, and change your speed often. If you can picture a drill Sargent commanding his cadets, that's the attitude that you should have. It should be fast paced, alert, and you should mean business. When she is busy heeling in such a structured fashion, she should not be able to focus on anything else. You will still need to experiment with the distance with this. She can likely get closer to other dogs doing this than the treat protocol but too close will prevent her from being able to focus on you. This practice is good dogs who struggle with leash reactivity and less dangerous forms of dog aggression.
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LadyBug has never been leash trained! Where do i start? She dosen't even "sit"!
Hello Ella, First, if LadyBug is not comfortable even wearing the leash, then spend about a week just clipping it to her collar and letting her drag the leash around your house when you are supervising her inside, to get her used to the sensation of it. After she is comfortable with that, then pick up the end of the leash and follow her around wherever she wants to go. When she is comfortable with that, then while you are following her, periodically put a little bit of pressure on the leash and hold it there to get her to come toward you. Expect her to pull against this and possibly even thrash around. Wait until she calms down and gives up fighting it, and then coax her over to yourself with a treat or a toy. As soon as she moves toward you and makes the leash loose again, then praise her and give her the treat or a toy. Expect for this to possible take her a long time at first. Simply be patient. It could take up to thirty minutes the first time. After she moves toward you and receives the reward, then keep the leash loose and follow her around some more, and after a little while, repeat tightening the leash a bit and encouraging her to come toward you. Repeat following her around and periodically tightening the leash. Do this until she will consistently come toward you when she feels pressure on the leash. Once she has learned what a leash is and how to handle the pressure of it, then you can start to teach her how to "Sit". Here is an article on how to teach sit: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-golden-retriever-to-sit After you have gotten her used to the leash and have taught her how to "Sit", then you can move onto one of the methods in the training article: "How To Teach Your Dog To Walk Calmly On A Leash" or one of the methods found in this training article bellow instead: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-large-dog-to-not-pull Once she knows how to walk on the leash and to sit, then I would encourage you to teach her "Down", then "Come", then "Stay", and then whatever else you would like for her to learn. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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Hi I am Amber and I have a dog name ray ray and she has never been on a leash and I have put her on a leash obefore and she didn't pull but she wouldn't move she ones.
Thanks for the question. Firstly, I would have the vet give Ray Ray a checkup to make sure there are no physical issues preventing her from walking with the leash. Take Ray Ray for short training sessions to a fun place like a park or field. Bring along treats. Put the leash on her and stand in front. Coax her toward you and the treat. Cheerfully praise her when she moves and try to lengthen the distance each time you move. Taking her through obedience classes is a good way to teach her to walk on a leash and not only that, it will also give her good socialization. She'll see the other dogs on a leash and learn that it's fun to go on walks. Learning important commands like "come" and "stay" will keep her engaged and safe, too. Good luck!
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WE have a retired Greyhound. Our Doug is a gentle loving dog and is very well mannered. Doug walks very well on leash. He is polite and minds all commands. Our problem is getting the leash on him and getting out the door. As soon as he hears the leash picked up, he goes nuts. He is wild as we try to clip the leash on and as we try to get out the door. AS soon as we are outside, he is calm and mannerly again. What do you suggest?
Hello Jeff and Paula, I suggest making the leash very boring during practice sessions, and rewarding him for sitting (or a Stand-Stay if he struggles with sitting like some Greyhound do because of how they are built). Go through your usual routine with getting ready for a walk and grabbing the leash. When he gets excited, ignore him unless he is calm, until he calms down. If he doesn't calm down, then put the leash away and take your off shoes again. Do this several times a day. After lots of repetitions, he should get less excited when he sees the leash because he doesn't think he is really going for a walk. Him being calm will give you an opportunity to encourage the calm behavior more often. When he is a bit calmer when you get the leash out, tell him to Sit or Stand and Stay. If he obeys, give him a treat and clip the leash on. If he starts to get wild, drop the leash and walk away until he calms back down. When he is calm again, pick up his leash and start to leave for a walk with him again. Practice making things boring when he gets overly excited by going through your walk routine without actually leaving. Practice having him sit or stand-and-stay when he is calm enough to obey (if he doesn't know one of those commands, then teach him that first). Finally, practice clipping the leash on and taking him on a walk while he is staying calm. Don't expect perfection at first, but as he gets better, you can require him to be even calmer before you reward him by taking him on the walk. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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Hello so my dog is always crazy when we walk her any movement she sees on the streets she tries to go after it, or when we walk her she pulls her self really hard amd she’s pretty strong so it’s hard to pull her back, and she always try’s to find a way to take off her harness we tried everything to teach her how to walk calmly but nothing seems to work can you please help?
Hello Gabriela, Check out the video linked below. Heel Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTiKVc4ZZWo I also suggest working on other commands that build respect. The pulling can be rewarding by itself but the complete lack of focus on you suggests that she would benefit from more structure, increasing respect for you, and building her trust. German Shepherds are a breed that tend to listen much better if they respect you first. Gaining her respect should not look angry or physically rough though. Shepherds are very intelligent and tend to do well when you engage their brains and are very consistent with them. Check out the articles and videos linked below for some commands that you can incorporate into her daily life to help with respect. Be sure that you are being consistent when you give commands also, and calmly but firmly follow through to ensure she obeys a command once it is given. This might mean, not letting her walk away while she is on a leash until she Sits if you told her to sit - even if it takes ten minutes. Going to get her and bring her back to where you called her from if she didn't come when called, then practicing Come on a long leash until she comes willingly five times in a row to refresh her training afterwards, and so on. Place: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=omg5DVPWIWo Crate manners: https://thegooddog.net/training-videos/free-how-to-training-videos/learn-to-train-the-good-dog-way-the-crate/ Thresholds: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-w28C2g68M Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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My dog pulls on the leash whenever we walk and also tries to escape out of the leash actually with my old leash he was able to get his head out of the collar . Right now I have him on slip lead that kind works but I have to it so tight because again he just finds a ways to get out and uses his front legs to get out , Ive even tried a back no pull harness and he still gets out of it his an escape artist. He also does this thing where if he doesn’t wan to go anywhere he’ll lay on the ground . His about 43lb and long so I can’t just pick him up .
I’ve just recently got him and his owners didn’t train him how to walk on leash . I really want to be able to walk him on the leash calmly and eventually maybe even off leash
Hello Raenee, First, I suggest walking him on a front clip harness such as one of the harnesses from this review: https://www.whole-dog-journal.com/care/the-best-dog-harnesses/ The harness should clip in the front at the chest, not just in the back because having the leash clipped to the front of the dog will help turn the dogs body toward you to decrease pulling when they forge ahead. Having a harness clipped to the back will let the dog put their strength into pulling - like a sled dog. Back clip harnesses are better for off leash distance work training, where you don't want the dog to be jerked on the neck if they were to get a tug from further away with more momentum behind it. Check out the article linked below and the Treat Lure and Turns methods for teaching heel. I suggest first working on simply teaching him the concept of heeling in a calm location like a fenced in yard using the front clip harness. With enough practice that may be all you need. As he improves, take the training to the front yard, then neighborhood culdesac, then park, then the rest of the neighborhood, then public locations with lots of distractions - work up to him being able to heel around distractions. Heel article - The turns method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel If he turns out to be an especially stubburn puller and after doing the above training you are still struggling despite lots of practice (heeling takes a lot of practice walking in squares and circles and zipzags to teach the concept of following you), then check out the videos linked below as well: How to Introduce the Prong collar – plus how to connect to buckle collar with carabiner (for your pup I would have a second leash attached to a harness or at least a martingale collar for safety - instead of regular buckle collar). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=23zEy-e6Khg How to walk with a Prong collar https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nVvy6fztL2Q&t=6s Heel Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTiKVc4ZZWo Another example on how to deal with objections and jumping: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EcwvUOf5oOg Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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Rocky and Ellie are brother and sister that we got together as puppies. We tried to leash train them when they were younger but they had dominance issues and one always wanted to be in front (lead) of the other when we tried walking them on the leash. We stupidly stopped trying and now they are 9 years old and the only time they ever go on the leash is when we take them to the vet. And all they do is pull like crazy. They are not good with other people and other dogs (they can get skittish), so we believe their pulling is out of anxiety rather than excitement. We are really wanting to leash train them, and get them harnesses so they aren’t choking themselves. We aren’t really sure where to begin, they pull like crazy and are strong, old dogs set in their ways. Any help or methods would be appreciated!
Hello Jessika, Check out the article linked below and follow the Turns method. Also check out the video linked below on leadership during a walk. I would suggest using a gentle leader head halter on both dogs at first, until the pulling improves with training also. Heel article - The turns method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Heel Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTiKVc4ZZWo If you decide to use a prong collar, be sure to look up how to fit and correct with it correctly. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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I received Dakota from a friend who kept her in the home. She had a private fenced in backyard for her to play and do her lady business so a need for a leash with them was not necessary. She also had not traveled in a car since she was brought home as a puppy. That is not the case for me. For the leash training, I have introduced her to her collar, harness, and leash and she freaks out and attempts to wiggle out of it or lay completely down and refuse to move or get up, even with treats. When taking her for a ride in the car, she gets very scared, anxious, shakey, and stressed to the point where she nipped at and bit me the first day I got her and nipped at the groomer when I took her to get groomed. I believe it's because she is scared and car sick, which in turn makes her irritable. I've only had her for a week and I understand everything is new to her. She truly is a loving dog. I just don't know what to do in these cases. Should I get her dog melatonin for car rides? How do I get her to walk on the leash? Going on the puppy pads is another can of worms. HELP!
Hello Chardon, For the leash issues you will need to treat her like you would a puppy who has never been on leash. Check out the article linked below. Follow one of those methods to get her used to simply wearing the leash first, then you can work on heeling later. Accepting a leash article: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-your-puppy-to-accept-leash For the car riding, it does sound like anxiety, and unfortunately car anxiety can actually lead to car sickness and it's a cycle. The first thing to do is address the anxiety. If the nausea still persists once the anxiety has been address (which is less common but still a possibility), then you can speak to your vet about medications or supplements to help the nausea too. Speak with your vet before giving any supplements or medication though since I am not a vet. Have her ride lying down. Standing up and moving around in the car contributes to car sickness. Check out the article linked below for addressing the car anxiety using the overcoming fear method. Also practice a Down Stay in the car with the car off once she is comfortable being in the car while it is still. When you start driving with her, have someone come with you and do the driving or work with her so that the driver can just focus on the road while the other person focuses on Dakota's training. Start with just pulling in and out of the driveway and practice that for a while. Next, drive down the street and back, then around neighborhoods and back, then to fun and calm places like calm parks. Gradually work up to longer trips, super exciting trips, or more fearful trips like the vet. You want most trips to be fun, calm, or uneventful, so that the car isn't a big deal and is pleasant. For the potty training, since she was trained to go potty outside, I suggest using a real grass pad instead of pee pads - many dogs associate pee pads with carpet and rugs and she is likely confusing them with things like that inside. Use disposable real grass pads and follow the "Crate Training" or "Exercise Pen" methods from the article linked below. The article mentions litter box training, but you can use real grass pads instead, and follow the same steps. Potty Training article: https://wagwalking.com/training/litter-box-train-a-chihuahua-puppy Real grass pad: https://www.amazon.com/Fresh-Patch-Disposable-Potty-Grass/dp/B005G7S6UI/ref=asc_df_B005G7S6UI/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309763115430&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10454607119916871826&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9010791&hvtargid=aud-643330155750:pla-568582223506&psc=1 Also sold on freshpatch.com Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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Lately, my dog fights going on most of his walks by digging in and refusing to move (even right out the door), or occasionally sitting/laying down mid-wall. My assumption is that something negative happened on a prior walk that has him upset with the act of going for a walk, but am not sure the appropriate means of rectifying this (treats/waiting longer for him to need the wall/etc.). This is taking place alongside some other behavioral changes, but is certainly the most noticeable. Any advice is greatly appreciated!
Hello Andrew, Since it's summer I would first check the temperature of the pavement. He may be burning his paws on hot pavement this time of year. If so, invest in some dog boots and spend time getting him used to wearing those inside by pairing them with lots of treats and letting him wear them around until he doesn't notice them. Most dogs don't love boots at first but adjust as they get used to the feeling of them. If the pavement is to blame, you will need to address that before anything else or the experience will just continue to be bad for him and get worse. He could also be in pain if walking in general, regardless of location is hard for him for some reason - such as arthritis, an unknown injury, or sore paw. If there is an injury, that needs to be addressed. Something also may have happened on the walk. Ideally, you would be able to figure out what's causing his fear and desensitize him to that thing. If he walks fine some places and not other places, then pay attention to what's different in your neighborhood than at the park. A neighbor's dog? Construction noises? Kids? Animals? Blow up decorations? Noises? ect...Check out the videos linked below on desensitization. Once you know the issue, you want to desensitize him to that thing, starting further away from it and moving closer the more he relaxes - this can take a good bit of practice over lots of sessions. New things: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LXCELHDT2fs&list=PLXtcKXk-QWojGYcl1NCg5UA5geEnmpx4a&index=11 Objects: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X5BjvNScFPs&list=PLXtcKXk-QWojGYcl1NCg5UA5geEnmpx4a&index=13 Sounds: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jp_l9C1yT1g&list=PLXtcKXk-QWojGYcl1NCg5UA5geEnmpx4a&index=14 Dealing with any fear present is the first step, which might start just by spending time in the area your dog will walk to and working there (if the pavement is the issue or an injury, address that first). When your dog's body language relaxes, you can ask him to move with you somewhere where he is uncomfortable going by walking there no-none-sense and applying small little leash tugs over and over (not continuous - but tug-release-tug-release) until your dog moves forward, once your dog moves, reward and praise with a confident sounding tone of voice (if there is fear he probably won't take the food at first though). Work a that next spot until he relaxes there too, then move again. Repeat this until your dog can get around the area again. If the issue was the pavement, you will do something similar, but your dog also needs to have the chance to realize that he can now walk without being burned while wearing the boots - so you will have to insist on walking a bit more. Take it in smaller piece to build his confidence, or see if you can get him excited before leaving and then jogging with you to take his mind off the pavement - sort of like get him out into the middle of it before he realizes that's where he is - but once he does discover he is in that unpleasant spot he finds it's not unpleasant anymore. If he is simply protesting walking because he prefers to do something else, take a firmer approach and walk with the attitude that you are going and it's not an option to stop, give the short tugs on his leash over and over until he complies if he puts on the breaks, and praise and reward for continuing to walk with you and follow. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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Every time I try to walk my dog Bella she jumps on me and scratches me when she cant pull me along the way she wants to. It hurts very badly and I don't know how to train her to not pull or jump. She is also very aggressive to other dogs not just on a leash, but I live on a dead end road and the only way to walk is right past a yard with several dogs. She nearly rips my arm off. Is there any specific way I should try to train her. She wasn't trained to walk on a leash because she was my sisters dog until now.
Hello Paige, Check out the Turns method from the article linked below for teaching heel. Also, check out the Step Toward method from the second article linked below for the jumping. Heeling: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Jumping: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-australian-shepherds-to-not-jump I suggest hiring a trainer who is very experienced with behavior issues and uses both positive reinforcement and gentle corrections in training, and comes well recommended by their previous clients. The behavior she is exhibiting might be just rude reactivity - which is something you could probably learn to work her through on your own if you wanted to put in the work to learn and practice the training with her. If it is more severe aggression, then you run the risk of her redirecting her aggression toward you, especially since there is already a lack of respect in your relationship based on her pulling and jumping on you when she doesn't get to go where she wants to - if that's the case, then I highly suggest hiring a trainer to help to keep things safer and help the behavior improve. Check out the videos linked below on aggression and rude reactivity: Rude, reactive dog that isn't actually aggressive: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EcwvUOf5oOg The walk with a rude dog: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTiKVc4ZZWo Aggressive dog - hire help with for this type of training - it will take an over all behavior modification in the rest of Bella's daily life too to teach calmness, impulse control, respect for you, and better management: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vfiDe0GNnLQ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTiKVc4ZZWo Good commands to build respect and calmness: Place: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=omg5DVPWIWo Crate manners: https://thegooddog.net/training-videos/free-how-to-training-videos/learn-to-train-the-good-dog-way-the-crate/ Thresholds: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-w28C2g68M Listening and Respect: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-doberman-to-listen-to-you Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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When she goes for walks she pulls me over has dragged me along ground as I won’t let go of lead dose this at training classes they say let husband walk her been to many different ones over the years everything ok except would love to be able to walk her
Hello Maria, I suggest finding a well qualified "Balanced trainer" who uses prong collars, positive reinforcement, fair corrections, and a lot of structure with dogs to help you with this issue. Check out the resources linked below. Heel article - The turns method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel How to Introduce the Prong collar – plus how to connect to buckle collar with carabiner: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=23zEy-e6Khg How to walk with a Prong collar https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nVvy6fztL2Q&t=6s Heel Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTiKVc4ZZWo Reactive dog and heel: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTiKVc4ZZWo Start with teaching pup the heel command and following; do this by practicing heel in a calm area like your own fenced in yard first. Use the Turns method from the first article I linked above. Once pup is responding well to that and paying better attention, add in the prong collar using the next three videos about prong collars. Once pup is responding well to the prong collar and understands that they will be rewarded and not corrected for focusing on you and staying with you, and that the corrections happen when he wanders away and tuns out - so he understands and can control whether he is rewarded or corrected, then gradually transition to harder locations. Start with easier locations like a cul-de-sac first. Gradually progress to more distracting locations as you practice and he improves, such as your neighborhood, then a calm park, then a busier park, then a park with a dog park nearby (don't go in the dog park though), and finally pet stores and public places like farmers markets or shopping areas. When walking pup it's extremely important to start the walk off calmly and require pup to walk BEHIND you. This takes practice. Once a dog that's reactive to things gets in front of you he is no longer paying attention to you, not following you, able to pull, and not acting respectful - all of this leads to dragging you down the sidewalk. Being able to interrupt him as soon as his face starts to move past your leg, get his attention back on you as soon as he starts focusing like another dog too much, and have pup know where you are because you are in his line of sight - is super important. When you first leave the house, practice door manners - he doesn't exit until he is being polite and waiting for permission to go through the door. Check out the video below for an example of how to teach him to go through a threshold respectfully. Thresholds: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-w28C2g68M Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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My dog is a very big Doberman who unfortunately has not had much leash training or walking in general. I have been trying to leash train him recently and he is learning slowly but surely. What I've been doing is stopping when he pulls and making him wait to walk until I am next to him, but he still pulls (only now he waits for me to walk next to him only to pull ahead again!) My question is which method would be better for a dog of his breed and size? Should I stick with what I am doing or switch up my method?
Hello Vee, I actually would suggest a different method entirely for your situation. Check out the article that I have linked bellow and follow the "Turns" method from that article. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Specifically, as soon as Reese starts to put his head in front of your knee, turn directly in front of him at a ninety degree angle. Turning in front of him should not only help him learn what position to walk in but should also adjust his attitude and show him that he needs to be following and not leading. There will be times when you cannot do this. During those times, do what you are doing now, but work on the turns as much as possible. Fields, parks, and other open areas are the easiest places to practice this. I find that turning while I am crossing over a driveway while on a walk in a neighborhood is a bit easier than doing it on the sidewalk. Practicing this in a neighborhood cul-de-sac is also easier. Do not expect walks to be very linear while you are working on this. Your walks might be a lot of circling and going back and forth and that is okay. If your whole walk takes place in your driveway, front yard, and cul-de-dac for a while your dog should be just as hired because he will be focusing the whole time and moving still. Just keep in mind that you are putting in the work now to create a lifetime of enjoyable walks with him later. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
Hi any advice appreciated as I have a German shepherd cross he nearly 5 yrs old now and my mistake as instead of continue with leash training when he was a puppy I started letting him run free on lands in country but have tried walk him on leash buy omg he so strong and don't think he realised that he is pulling me as I'm disabled now ostioathritis fibromyalgia and can't get him stop pulling me or it me to weak control him as he good dog but so strong on leash walking for me and I've tried many times different ways and all kinds different leash and harness for him and all I want wish is to walk my dog shadow without been dragged pulled as I'm struggling with leash walk and I so want to enjoy walking him as he is my companion as he always with me since he was puppy as can't leave him alone as to clever can open doors and windows as I had a shock one night I had left him in new home with 2 other dogs as middle moving house but when return home after securing doors he had managed open them went upstairs and jump out bedroom window which shocked me how clever he was as new neighbors had reported it to RSPCA so I had to contact them quickly explain suituation just lucky they new me as I used help volunteer housed dogs .. so my dog is with me 24/7 and I'd love be able control him on leash walking and don't think treats going help me as he is determined and yes dominates rule us because he been alloud to but otherwise to always getting his own way spoilt by my partner .he good 🐕 dog in home and when out in country of leash playing fetch ball on a secure field and he gets on with other dogs it just leash walking he to strong for me and my health has worsened getting older but can you help plis how can I crack the leash walking as I'm thinking more it my fault to weak not enough strength to pull him back to me ?????🙏🙏🙏🙏🤞🤞🤞🤞
I’m the same now old frighted to take dog for walk have been dreaded along by not letting go of lead in case dog gets hurt
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My golden walks well if we are going on our usual route and no other dogs or people are around. As soon as she sees another dog, person, or if we are taking a new route she pulls like crazy. She gets extremely excited. Sometimes she will even playfully lunge at other dogs and try to jump on humans. I try to make her sit and stay to correct this behavior but it doesn't seem to work. It's embarrassing and frustrating!
Hello Angela, I suggest going places that are more spacious, where you can control how far you are from other passing dogs, like a public park. Practice the following commands with other dogs in the background from a distance you can regain her attention from. As she improves, gradually decrease the distance between her and other dogs. The goal is to practice this with other dogs in the background so much that the other dogs become boring and she learns to ignore them, plus learns to focus on you better out of respect for you. Heel article - The turns method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Heel Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTiKVc4ZZWo Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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Hi I am Amber and I have a dog name ray ray and she has never been on a leash and she gets scared when I try to walk her and she doesn't pull but she won't move and go anywhere.
Hello Amber, First, pay attention to pup's body language and the environment. Some pups don't want to walk because they are afraid of a neighborhood dog in a fence barking, construction workers, funny objects (like Christmas decorations), and things we would never think twice about. If pup isn't familiar with something (no matter how normal it may seem to us) it can feel scary to pup and be a reason why they don't want to leave the safety of the yard. If pup seems nervous or something might be bothering them in the environment, work on helping pup overcome that fear first by using play and treats to distract pup and then reward pup for any confidence, calmness, or tolerance they shows around the fearful thing. Spend time with pup outside on a long leash simply hanging out in that area desensitizing pup to those things through play and treats. Practice this further away from the scary thing first and very gradually work up to pup being able to pass that thing as her confidence grows with your help. Second, every time pup takes a couple of steps, give a treat. Keep your energy excited and confident. When pup stops, tell pup "Let's Go" in a calm and business-like tone of voice (it's not a question it's a confident, calm command), then tug and release the leash several times in a row until pup takes a couple more steps - at which point give another treat. The leash tugs should stop as soon as pup starts moving. Keep your walking goals short at first. If pup won't leave your yard - your first goal is just to leave the yard. When pup reaches that goal - go home as an additional reward for pup following you - even if a lot of leash tugs were involved. When pup will go to the end of the yard easily then walk to the next house. Gradually increase your walk distance overtime. If you make your goal something huge like the whole neighborhood at first you are less likely to succeed - work up to distance overtime. Also, do not continuously pull pup on the leash. Doing so can harm pup's neck, but also dog's have a natural tendency to pull away from something - so if you pull pup in one direction, she will just pull back in the other direction, budging even less. This is why you do the quick tug and releases so that not following is annoying with the tugs but not a continuous pull. You want pup to choose to walk to get away from the annoying tugs and to receive treats - but you also need to spend time desensitizing pup to things that scare her in the area first - before trying to walk further. Finally, make sure pup isn't in pain or sick, causing her not to want to exercise in any form due to feeling bad. If you have reason to suspect pup is ill or injured, definitely see your vet. (I am not a vet) Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
I will try this
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