If Sparky is allowed to chase bikes, the person on the bike could become startled, or knocked over and hurt, Sparky could run out into traffic and be struck by a car or could get tangled up in the pedals or spokes of the bike and be injured. Nothing good is going to come of this unless Sparky's owner teaches him to stop chasing bikes!
While it may be natural for your dog to respond to a fast moving object, like a bike, by chasing, this behavior can be extremely dangerous for the people riding the bike, and for your dog. It is important to teach dogs from as young an age as possible not to chase cyclists, for their safety and the cyclists'. You will want your dog to ignore a cyclist when they pass by, behaving in a calm, quiet, manner and resisting the urge to chase after the bike. Introducing a command to 'leave' the bike or an alternative behavior to perform when a cyclist goes by are both effective ways of changing your dog's chasing behavior when presented with a moving bicycle. You can even teach your dog to run next to a bike on a leash to introduce a different way of viewing a bike, as a pack member instead of prey. This will help change how your dog views and responds to a bicycle.
My dog Saber is scared of bikes. I have purchased a cheap bike and keep it outside. I have managed to aleviate his fear of the stationary bike.
Though he is still scared to death of a moving bike. He will cower and physically shake if he has no room to escape. How can I change this behaviour.
Hello John, You will have to do this very gradually. Think of his favorite things in life - a ball, chicken, a dog friend, a favorite person, ect...Make a list of his favorite things. In a safely fenced in area, do something with him that involves that wonderful thing. Once he is engaged in something fun and focused on that, have a well-known friend he trusts calmly walk the bike around the yard pretty far away from him at a slow pace. Keep the bike far enough away that he can stay relaxed and having fun with your fun activity but close enough that he can see that it's there. Practice this a lot. When he is completely comfortable around the bike from that distance and that pace and will just ignore it, then gradually make it slightly harder by getting the bike a few feet closer or making the bike go a little faster...Only make it harder in one way at a time - either faster or close but not both. Practice each new difficultly until he is completely comfortable with that, then make it a little harder again. Overtime the bike should slowly start to get closer to him and faster. Whenever he looks over at the bike and hasn't reacted badly yet, make it a party. Praise him and get him excited - act happy and confident and not worried or sorry for him. He is watching your emotions to see how he should feel, so you need to convey confidence and upbeat happy or at least calm and relaxed. If all you want is for him to overcome his fear of bikes, then he should be over his fear of them by this point in the training. Refresh the training every once in a while to keep bikes fun and to off set any less pleasant encounters with strangers on bikes. When he can handle the bike riding past him, if you are wanting to train him to run next to you while you ride a bike, then encourage him to run next to you while you run by a bike someone else is on while in a fenced in area. You can use a favorite toy to encourage him to follow you. Only do this when he has already worked up to the bike going past him at a normal biking pace. Practice running alongside the bike until he learns to enjoy that activity and is completely relaxed and happy while doing it. At this point you can transition to normal bike jogging training for dogs. If you are not needing him to run next to you while you ride, then I don't suggest working on this last part because it is safer if he just learns to ignore bikes and not expect to run next to them. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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My Dog Crimson will go after anybody who is on a bike or scooter and we can’t get him to stop what should we do?
Hello Dorian, First, I suggest teaching a solid Leave It command to pup. Follow the Leave It command using the Leave It method from the article linked below. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite Second, teach pup a structured heel - practice away from moving things like bikes and scooters at first. Check out the article and video linked below Heel article - The turns method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Heel Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTiKVc4ZZWo Third, purchase a high quality remote training collar with stimulation, lean how to fit it properly and find your dog's "Working level" - which is the lowest level that your dog feels and responds to. Only use a high quality collar such as E-collar Technologies, Dogtra, Sportdog, or Garmin. Check out the videos below: Fitting: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DLxB6gYsliI Finding pup's Working Level on e-collar: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1cl3V8vYobM Fourth, teach an e-collar heel: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PJaZsZdcjwU Fifth, put it all together. Walk pup on a collar or harness that's secure. Practice your e-collar heeling with bikes and/or scooters in sight. Whenever pup starts to fixate on the bikes or scooters or break the heel position, tell pup "Ah Ah Heel" - If breaking heel, or "Ah Ah, Leave It" - for fixating on bikers or scooters and correct on pup's working level on the e-collar. Practice around bikes and scooters a lot until pup will ignore them and focus on you around them. Any other training you can do to help with impulse control is also great, such as a long Place, Down-Stay, waiting at doors, not exiting a crate until told Okay, ect... Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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She chases all fast moving things - skateboards, rollerskates, electric scooters, and now bikes. Its got worse the older she gets. She goes into a trance like herding and recall is very difficult. She has even bitten someones ankle before. I'm very worried. I have bought a whistle to see if this helps. Any advice most welcome
Hello, First, I suggest teaching a solid Leave It command to pup. Teach the Leave It command using the Leave It method from the article linked below. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite Second, teach pup a structured heel - practice away from cars at first. Check out the article and video linked below Heel article - The turns method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Heel Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTiKVc4ZZWo Third, purchase a high quality remote training collar with stimulation, lean how to fit it properly and find your dog's "Working level" - which is the lowest level that your dog feels and responds to. Only use a high quality collar such as E-collar Technologies, Dogtra, Sportdog, or Garmin. Check out the videos below: Fitting: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DLxB6gYsliI Working Level finding: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1cl3V8vYobM Jeff Gellman cat aggressive dog: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_MLJV5PBh7Y More e-collar work with cats: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v8lkbX0dhT0 Fourth, teach an e-collar heel: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PJaZsZdcjwU Fifth, put it all together. Walk pup on a collar or harness that's secure. Practice your e-collar heeling with cars in sight. Whenever pup starts to fixate on the cars or break the heel position, tell pup "Ah Ah Heel" - If breaking heel, or "Ah Ah, Leave It" - for fixating on cars, and correct on pup's working level on the e-collar. Practice around cars a lot until pup will ignore them and focus on you around them. Reward ignoring cars when pup is calm around them also - don't reward while pup is still in an overly-excited or aroused state though - only calm. Any other training you can do to help with impulse control in general is also great, such as a long Place, Down-Stay, waiting at doors, not exiting a crate until told Okay, ect... Place: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O75dyWITP1s Crate manners: https://thegooddog.net/training-videos/free-how-to-training-videos/learn-to-train-the-good-dog-way-the-crate/ Thresholds: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-w28C2g68M Since it sounds like pup may live in a rural area where they are off leash and doing the behavior. Keep pup leashed at all times while outside while doing the initial on-leash training. When pup can handle leaving cars alone while on leash, then check out the videos linked below for how to teach a dog to avoid livestock while off-leash also (which is a similar prey or herding drive behind the behavior, so actually addressed very similarly to car chasing off-leash). Teach pup to avoid cars in general, using such training, even with you not around. Since you will have spent the time doing the on-leash training first, pup should better understand the off-leash (or long leash at first) part of the training as you progress to that part of it. The on leash needs to be done first though. Day 1. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lgNbWCK9lFc Day 2. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kpf5Bn-MNko&t=14s Day 3. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xj3nMvvHhwQ Day 4. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VxrGQ-AZylY Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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How to train my dog to Pee on the pad and to don’t chase motorbike
Hello! I am going to give you some training information on how to work with your dog to use a potty pad. Choose Your Spot Pick a space in your house where you want your dog to go. Obviously, you’ll want this spot to be a low-traffic area. Make sure this spot is easily accessible to your dog, and make sure the floor surface is linoleum or tile, as opposed to carpet. If your dog “misses,” it will be easier to clean up. If the only spot you can put the pee pad is a carpet, you might consider getting a small tarp to put underneath the puppy pee pad to guard against spillage. Choose a spot that is outside of your “smell zone.” An important tip to remember is to make sure not to let your dog decide the spot he likes. Not only might he pick an area you won’t like, but he’ll learn that he is in charge – not you – which can cause a host of problems down the line. Monitor Your Dog When you are potty training your dog, full-time monitoring is an absolute necessity. It’s impossible to correct bad behaviors if you don’t see them happen. Dogs have very short memories. It is important to catch your dog in the act. If your dog goes on the floor, and you try to correct him hours after the fact, he will be confused and upset, not knowing what he did wrong. This can hinder training and your relationship with your dog. Puppies, in particular, must be watched constantly. They have less control over their bowels and will go when they have to go. If you miss these moments, you lose precious training opportunities. Of course, it’s nearly impossible to be with your dog 24 hours a day, but try to spend more time at home during the weeks you are potty training – it will pay off in the long run. Learn Your Dog’s Schedule Dogs, for the most part, are predictable. They will go to the bathroom at predictable times. You should be able to learn when your dog has to go based on timing as much as on his signals. Take some time to study your dog’s bathroom habits. You’ll learn the amount of time after he eats or drinks that he has to go, and you’ll get in rhythm with his daily bathroom schedule. This will help you reduce accidents and speed up the potty training process. Studying your dog’s habits can also help you identify his bathroom “triggers” – like having to go after a certain amount of playtime. Once you learn your dog’s schedule, use it to your advantage in potty training. Bring him to the pee pad a few minutes before he normally goes, and encourage him. This will help him get used to going in the right spot, and help you establish repetition in your training. Choose a Command Word Dogs have keen senses – they respond to sight, smell, and sound. When you begin pee pad training, choose a command word and use it every time you take your dog to the pad. Just about any word will work. The tone of your voice is more important than the actual word. Try phrases like “go on” or “go potty” in a slightly elevated, encouraging tone. Make sure to repeat this same command, in the same tone, every time you take your dog to the pee pad. Avoid Punishment When your dog has an accident, it’s just that – an accident. When you punish your dog during potty training, he will become confused and scared. He doesn’t know what he’s done wrong, and can’t understand why the person he loves most is mad at him. Most importantly, it will not help his potty training. Positive Reinforcement Both human and dog behavior is largely based on incentives. Dogs’ incentives are very simple – they want to eat when they are hungry, play when they are excited, and sleep when they are tired. But the most important thing your dog wants in life is to please you. Use this to your advantage. Whenever your dog goes on his potty training pad, shower him with lots of praise. If he sees that he gets praise for doing his business on the pad, he will be incentivized to keep going on the pad – and he’ll be excited to do it! Potty training – whether it’s a pee pad or going outside – will take time, but if you do it right, can take less time. Many dogs are potty trained in less than two weeks. Just remember that you and your dog are partners. Do everything you can to help him learn the proper etiquette, and you will enjoy a long, quality relationship together. Please let me know if you have any additional questions. Thank you for writing in.
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