Once outside, the beagle pup is far more likely to fine-tune his digging skills or track that intriguing scent around the garden. Indeed, his ability to be distracted is such that he'll probably forget all about that achingly full bladder...until he's brought back indoors.
Down this road lies disaster with a puppy who comes back inside to toilet on the carpet. Instead, follow our training tips so he successfully learns to toilet outdoors.
Each dog is an individual and some learn this skill relatively quickly, while others take weeks or even months. What is clear is that the more consistently you apply the rules, the more likely the dog is to learn. However, if the dog is extremely resistant to potty training, then he should be checked by a vet in order to rule out a medical or physical problem.
How to train for pee?
Hello! I am sending you quite a bit of information on potty and crate training just in case you want to use the crate to help with potty training. This information is written for puppies, but the procedure is exactly the same for training an adult dog who doesn't quite know where to go potty. Potty training: Know Your Pup. As you spend time with your puppy, learn your puppy’s love language. Just as some people prefer gifts, touch, or time spent together, puppies can be the same way. Some puppies love praise or pets, while others prefer treats. As you get to know your puppy, consider what reward your puppy loves the most. Create a Daily Schedule. It is best to have a routine for your puppy. A schedule helps them understand when to eat, play, and “go to the bathroom.” Your puppy should go out frequently and the routine should be the same every time. When? Start the day by taking your puppy outside, and repeating based on age and ability. They should also go out after napping, chewing, playing, and within 10 to 15 minutes of eating. Although some puppies can sleep for seven hours, it is important to set an alarm and take your pup out during the night. When you do, don’t make a fuss about it. Quietly take them outside with minimal stimulation and light. Praise them if they go to the bathroom and gently return them to their bed or crate. You don’t want them to get stimulated and ready to play in the middle of the night! As you get to know your puppy, you will become aware of their individual habits. Click here to learn more about house training schedules for puppies. Where? Take your puppy to a specific area to urinate or defecate. Be consistent. You can create an area by using urine-soaked paper or bowel movements to help create an aroma to stimulate your puppy. How? Take your puppy out on a leash so they can focus on the desired activity. This will help prevent them from wandering off to play. Once your puppy is in the selected area, use your verbal cue, such as “Hurry Up,” “Poopies,” “Go tinkle,” or any phrase your puppy responds to. What? Know the signs that your puppy has to go to the bathroom. Every animal may have a different “I gotta go” gesture, which often include restlessness, sniffing around, circling, scratching at the door, barking, and, eventually, squatting. At the first sign that your pup has to go, calmly and quickly take them outside to their bathroom spot. Deal with Accidents. Accidents are a normal part of house training a puppy. What to Do If you see your puppy in the process of urinating or defecating inappropriately, calmly and quickly interrupt them in the act. Tell them to stop (either by a jarring sound or command), and immediately take them to an appropriate location for elimination. After your puppy goes to the bathroom, lavishly praise them and offer a treat. Thoroughly clean up accidents, so your puppy is not attracted to this area again. Create a consistent feeding and watering schedule. Depending on the age of your puppy, they will eat three to four times a day. A consistent feeding routine can create a regular bathroom schedule. Take away water about 2 hours before bedtime. Learn more about ideal dog schedules here. What NOT to Do Don’t punish your puppy when they have an accident. At that point, it is too late. When a puppy has an accident in the house and they walk away, within seconds they have already forgotten about what they did. Taking them to the scene of the crime and yelling and/or rubbing their nose in it does not help and, in fact, can harm your puppy! Supervise. The best thing you can do is to prevent accidents and the best way to do this is to supervise your puppy at all times. You can tether your puppy to your waist with a five or six-foot leash and carefully observe them for signs that they need to go to the bathroom. If you can’t supervise, then crate or confine your puppy. The more accidents your puppy has in the house, the more confusing it will be for them and this can delay house training. Reward, Reward, Reward. It is important to give your puppy a reward for their good behavior. This can be for commands such as sitting and coming to you, or for appropriately eliminating outside. In a puppy, a reward can be a couple kibbles of puppy food or a treat, such as a small piece of meat. The treat should be exciting for them and only available as a result of good behavior. Crate training can take days or weeks, depending on your dog's age, temperament and past experiences. It's important to keep two things in mind while crate training: The crate should always be associated with something pleasant and training should take place in a series of small steps. Don't go too fast. Step 1: Introduce your dog to the crate Place the crate in an area of your house where the family spends a lot of time, such as the family room. Put a soft blanket or towel in the crate. Take the door off and let the dog explore the crate at their leisure. Some dogs will be naturally curious and start sleeping in the crate right away. If yours isn't one of them: Bring them over to the crate and talk to them in a happy tone of voice. Make sure the crate door is open and secured so that it won't hit your dog and frighten them. Encourage your dog to enter the crate by dropping some small food treats nearby, then just inside the door, and finally, all the way inside the crate. If they refuse to go all the way in at first, that's OK; don't force them to enter. Continue tossing treats into the crate until your dog will walk calmly all the way into the crate to get the food. If they aren’t interested in treats, try tossing a favorite toy in the crate. This step may take a few minutes or as long as several days. Step 2: Feed your dog meals in the crate After introducing your dog to the crate, begin feeding them their regular meals near the crate. This will create a pleasant association with the crate. If your dog is readily entering the crate when you begin Step 2, place the food dish all the way at the back of the crate. If they remain reluctant to enter, put the dish only as far inside as they will readily go without becoming fearful or anxious. Each time you feed them, place the dish a little further back in the crate. Once your dog is standing comfortably in the crate to eat their meal, you can close the door while they’re eating. The first time you do this, open the door as soon as they finish their meal. With each successive feeding, leave the door closed a few minutes longer, until they’re staying in the crate for 10 minutes or so after eating. If they begin to whine to be let out, you may have increased the length of time too quickly. Next time, try leaving them in the crate for a shorter time period. If they do whine or cry in the crate, don’t let them out until they stop. Otherwise, they'll learn that the way to get out of the crate is to whine, so they'll keep doing it. Step 3: Practice with longer crating periods After your dog is eating their regular meals in the crate with no sign of fear or anxiety, you can confine them there for short time periods while you're home. Call them over to the crate and give them a treat. Give them a command to enter, such as "crate." Encourage them by pointing to the inside of the crate with a treat in your hand. After your dog enters the crate, praise them, give them the treat and close the door. Sit quietly near the crate for five to 10 minutes and then go into another room for a few minutes. Return, sit quietly again for a short time and then let them out. Repeat this process several times a day, gradually increasing the length of time you leave them in the crate and the length of time you're out of sight. Once your dog will stay quietly in the crate for about 30 minutes with you mostly out of sight, you can begin leaving them crated when you're gone for short time periods and/or letting them sleep there at night. This may take several days or weeks. Step 4, Part A: Crate your dog when you leave After your dog can spend about 30 minutes in the crate without becoming anxious or afraid, you can begin leaving them crated for short periods when you leave the house. Put them in the crate using your regular command and a treat. You might also want to leave them with a few safe toys in the crate. Vary the moment during your "getting ready to leave" routine that you put your dog in the crate. Although they shouldn't be crated for a long time before you leave, you can crate them anywhere from five to 20 minutes prior to leaving. Don't make your departures emotional and prolonged—they should be matter-of-fact. Praise your dog briefly, give them a treat for entering the crate and then leave quietly. When you return home, don't reward your dog for excited behavior by responding to them in an enthusiastic way. Keep arrivals low-key to avoid increasing their anxiety over when you will return. Continue to crate your dog for short periods from time to time when you're home so they don't associate crating with being left alone. Step 4, Part B: Crate your dog at night Put your dog in the crate using your regular command and a treat. Initially, it may be a good idea to put the crate in your bedroom or nearby in a hallway, especially if you have a puppy. Puppies often need to go outside to eliminate during the night and you'll want to be able to hear your puppy when they whine to be let outside. Older dogs should also initially be kept nearby so they don't associate the crate with social isolation. Once your dog is sleeping comfortably through the night with the crate near you, you can begin to gradually move it to the location you prefer, although time spent with your dog—even sleep time—is a chance to strengthen the bond between you and your pet. Potential problems Whining: If your dog whines or cries while in the crate at night, it may be difficult to decide whether they’re whining to be let out of the crate, or whether they need to be let outside to eliminate. If you've followed the training procedures outlined above, then your dog hasn't been rewarded for whining in the past by being released from their crate. If that is the case, try to ignore the whining. If your dog is just testing you, they'll probably stop whining soon. Yelling at them or pounding on the crate will only make things worse. If the whining continues after you've ignored them for several minutes, use the phrase they associate with going outside to eliminate. If they respond and become excited, take them outside. This should be a trip with a purpose, not play time. If you're convinced that your dog doesn't need to eliminate, the best response is to ignore them until they stop whining. Don't give in; if you do, you'll teach your dog to whine loud and long to get what they want. If you've progressed gradually through the training steps and haven't done too much too fast, you'll be less likely to encounter this problem. If the problem becomes unmanageable, you may need to start the crate training process over again. Separation anxiety: Attempting to use the crate as a remedy for separation anxiety won't solve the problem. A crate may prevent your dog from being destructive, but they may get injured in an attempt to escape. Separation anxiety problems can only be resolved with counterconditioning and desensitization procedures.
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I sometime used to gently hit my puppy to stop her from certain doings and behaviours later when I read on the internet that it develops fear in dogs I stopped it. But I feel my pup is sometimes scared of me. How can I get back her trust, love and friendship?
Hello Mickey, To begin with, at least once a day hand feed your puppy's dog food to her as training treats during handling exercises. To do this, gently touch her paw and give her a treat while you do so. Touch her ear and give her a treat. Touch her tail and give her a treat. Touch her belly and give her a treat. Touch another paw and give her a treat. Gently open up her mouth if she will let you and give her a treat. Repeat this with every area of her body, practicing even more on the areas that she seems uncomfortable with. Make sure that these touches are gentle and that you are calm and gentle with her while you do this. It should be fun for both of you once she starts to get comfortable with it. Second, spend some time every day training her in a fun way. You can either teach her obedience commands, tricks, special tasks, or build on what she already knows, but try to make the training fun, positive, and a little bit mentally challenging. To make it mentally challenging focus on building on what she already knows, so that the training session is just a little bit difficult but easy enough for her to learn still. Teach her a new command, or practice lots of different commands in different orders, rather than practicing the same command for too long each time. Training that is consistent, fair, motivational, and a little bit mentally challenging builds trust, creates a bond between you and your dog, and builds respect without you having to be being harsh or intimidating. Just because the training is positive though that does not mean that you cannot be firm. Your attitude when you need to be firm with her should be completely calm, more stubborn than she is, and patient. You can be consistent and firm when she chooses to disobey a command by being persistent until she chooses to obey, by using something like a long leash to reel her in when you tell her to come so that she has to follow through, by practicing the same command several times in a row, helping her to do it, until she will do it by herself, and by generally going to her and helping her obey a command if she chooses to disobey, rather than simply yelling at her or ignoring the disobedience. Simply being consistent goes a long way in earning a dog's respect. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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Hello, my name is Kirstin and I recently adopted a puppy that was left behind by a hunter in a dirt pen and then later taken to a rescue where he was free to do his business in a concrete kennel. Now that I have him we are working on potty training. I use a lead and collar and take him out right after sleep/naps and right after eating for many minutes. It has been a week and he still has not had a single potty outside. It seems like hes holding it outside because maybe he is not use to going on grass? Right when I take him back inside he pees! Although after this week he is starting to go by the door which is a good sign I guess because he is associating the two. But anywho, I have had several people tell me its near impossible to fully house train a beagle. So I definitely need tips and any help I can get!I have never raised anything but Lab puppies and other than that I have had adult dogs. Please help!
Hell Kristen, I highly suggest crate training him using the "Crate Training" method from the article that I have linked below. That method includes tips like using a potty encouraging spray, only letting the puppy have freedom outside of the crate when his bladder is empty, teaching him a "Go Potty" command, and rewarding him when he pees outside. The combination of the structured schedule, only giving him freedom while his bladder is empty, and rewarding him for going potty outside should significantly help! It can be more work at first but it tends to be the quickest and most sure fire way to potty train a puppy so I especially recommend it for puppies that got off on the wrong foot with potty training. It will also limit his freedom in your house to break his old habit of peeing inside while he establishes a new habit of peeing outside. That is important for him to be successful. It will be important for his crate to be the right size, or he may pee in there like he would a kennel. The crate needs to be big enough for him to lay down and circle around but not big enough for him to pee in one end and stand in the other end away from his pee. You can either purchase a smaller crate and buy a second one when he out grows that one and is hopefully potty trained by then, or you can buy an adult sized crate that comes with a metal divider, which most wire crates do, and use the divider to block off the back of the crate so that the part he is in is small enough. Here is the link to the potty training article below. Follow the "Crate Training" method for Ryder and purchase a potty encouraging spray to spray on the ground where you want him to go potty outside to help him understand what to do outside more quickly. Do not skip the treat rewards. I recommend putting a bag or bowl of treats somewhere out of his reach by the door that you take him to go potty through to help you remember and make it more convenient for you. Also, when you are home, take him out as often as the article recommends but when you are gone off, at three months of age he can hold it for three to four hours during the day while in the crate, but no longer. I would try not to push it all the way to four hours most of the time though because he might have an accident if he did something like drank too much water. Three hours is a bit safer. As he gets older you can add one more hour to that number for his maximum amount of time. The number will always be one more hour than he is months of age. So at four months of age he will be able to go up to five hours between potty breaks when needed. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-german-shepherd-puppy-to-poop-outside Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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I adopted Daisy from a shelter a few months ago. We have 2 issues we are working on, both related to her getting over-excited.
1. She barks at other dogs we meet on walks (well, she really just goes crazy) and looks aggressive, but is really just over-excited.
2. She won't pee until I walk her at least 20 minutes because she is excited and distracted. I'm already walking her 3 - 1/2 hour walks a day, but would like to be able to send her out on a tether a couple times in between to do her duty. We don't have a fence. She will explore, run, and then sleep in the yard, but not pee.
Hello Linda, For the peeing and walks I suggest crate training her and temporarily crating her between potty trips. https://wagwalking.com/training/like-a-crate When you take her outside to pee tell her to "Go Potty". If she goes, praise her and feed her five treats, one at a time. If she doesn't go, take her back inside, put her back into the crate, then take her back outside in an hour. Repeat this until she goes potty. After she goes potty in your yard, THEN take her for a walk so that the walk is a reward for peeing first. She is probably partially too distracted to pee right on the walk but she has probably also learned that as soon as she pees that the walk ends so she holds her bladder to keep the walk going. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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So basically, I took my beagle when it was 45 days. I live in an apartment which doesn't really have a yard. Therefore I potty train her in my washroom. However,she pees anywhere and everywhere in the house. And sometimes poops out of the washroom as well. I take him out to relive himself after getting up, before going to bed, and after meals to poop. Sometimes that's successful and sometimes not. However peeing is a problem definitely !!!! She pees everywhere in the house. I don't stay in the house for long hours and hence cannot put her in a crate . Please tell me what to do, cuz it's becoming impossible for me to train her.
Hello Prakriti, When you are home you need to follow the crate training or tethering method very strictly - pup should not be free unless she has potties outside within the last 45 minutes or is tethered to you with a leash inside. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-german-shepherd-puppy-to-poop-outside When you have yo be gone for longer than 3 hours, put a disposable real grass pad in the washroom for pup yo gi potty on. www.doggielawn.com www.freshpatch.com www.porchpotty.com Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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