How to Train a Beagle Puppy to Pee Outside

Easy
1-4 Weeks
General

Introduction

Beagles are intelligent dogs but easily distracted by their nose. It is a common mistake made by many Beagle puppy owners, that they pop their pup in the yard for half an hour and expect them to potty train themselves. Unfortunately, the chances of a Beagle learning that outside is the place to pee, when left to his own amusement, is very slim indeed. 

Once outside, the beagle pup is far more likely to fine-tune his digging skills or track that intriguing scent around the garden. Indeed, his ability to be distracted is such that he'll probably forget all about that achingly full bladder...until he's brought back indoors. 

Down this road lies disaster with a puppy who comes back inside to toilet on the carpet. Instead, follow our training tips so he successfully learns to toilet outdoors. 

Defining Tasks

Training a puppy to pee outside is part of potty training. It is of great benefit since when a dog pees on earth or grass, there is no clearing up to do. Most of the work lies in teaching the puppy that the appropriate place to relieve himself is outside. Once he understands this, most dogs will go and sit by the door or scratch at it to tell the owner they need to go out. Thus, specific training to ask to go out is usually not needed. 

Each dog is an individual and some learn this skill relatively quickly, while others take weeks or even months. What is clear is that the more consistently you apply the rules, the more likely the dog is to learn. However, if the dog is extremely resistant to potty training, then he should be checked by a vet in order to rule out a medical or physical problem. 

Getting Started

To teach a Beagle to pee outside, it's helpful to have:

  • A yard that is close to the house, preferably with an area sheltered from the wind and rain
  • A collar and leash
  • Tasty treats
  • A treat pouch so that rewards are always close to hand. 

The Basic Potty Training Method

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Step
1
Understand the idea
The backbone of teaching any puppy to pee outside is basic potty training. This teaches the young dog to control his bladder and bowel, and hold until he has access to the appropriate place to toilet.
Step
2
Prevent peeing in the wrong places
Peeing is habit forming and pups love to go back to a place they previously soiled. This can work for you during training (by presenting the pup with the correct place) or against you (when the pup pees indoors and marks out his own toilet. Prevention depends on thorough deoderization of previous accidents. Blot up as much of the pee as possible with disposible towel and then clean and disinfect with an appropriate product.
Step
3
Constant vigilance
The other part of prevention is watching the puppy for signs of needing to toilet, and immediately taking him outside. Any sniffing or sidling up to furniture can be a prelude to peeing, so don't take any chances and take him straight out to the toilet spot.
Step
4
Confine an unattended puppy
Dont give the puppy the chance to pee in your absence. Crate train him and pop him in when you need to leave the room or leave him unattended.
Step
5
Praise a pee in the right place
When puppy does pee outside, say "Yes" in an excited voice and then reward him. This helps him link peeing outside to good things happening, so that he wants to save up his pee and spend it for treats outside.
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The Do's and Don'ts Method

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Step
1
Don't: Use a cleaner containing ammonia
Many household cleaners contain bleach or ammonia. Unfortunately, both of these contain constituents of urine and can accidentally amplify the scent of a puddle rather than remove it. Be sure to chose a cleaner that is ammonia or bleach-free.
Step
2
Don't: Punish accidents
Puppies live in the moment. If you punish him for peeing in the house, he won't understand what the punishment is for. This will only serve to make him wary of you and could even inhibit him from peeing in your presence, thus making training harder rather than easier.
Step
3
Do: Give plenty of opportunity to pee
Young puppies have poor bladder control and when they've gotta go... they've gotta go. Increase the chance of this being in the right place by presenting him with the toilet spot outdoors every 20 - 30 minutes. Also increase the 'hit' rate by taking him out immediately when he wakes up and around 15 - 20 minutes after eating. These are all peak times that puppy may need to relieve himself.
Step
4
Don't: Leave puppy outside by himself
A puppy outside alone equals puppy playtime. He's likely to get distracted and find a stick to play with, and forget to do his business. Then when you do eventually bring him indoors he's even more desperate for the toilet and uses the carpet. Instead, accompany him outside and gently focus his mind by encouraging him to toilet and discouraging playtime.
Step
5
Do: Be patient
Puppies are all individuals and learn at different rates. Some learn quickly, other more slowly. It is a rare pup that is properly potty trained ahead of 12 weeks, so don't be discouraged if your baby dog seems slow on the uptake. Also, if he suffers a setback, such as being sick or having vaccinations, his potty training may slip for a few days. If, however, the dog doesn't seem to be catching on at all, then have him checked by a vet in case he has a urinary infection or an anatomical problem.
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The Wider Outdoors Method

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Step
1
Understand the problem
Sometimes we can be so good at teaching a puppy to use a toilet spot outdoors in the yard, that they believe the yard is the only place they are allowed to toilet. This can make walks frustrating as the dog holds on for the entirety of the exercise, only to return home and toilet. Careful planning and a wider strategy can prevent this over-clean habit.
Step
2
Up and out
Once your puppy is protected by vaccination and allowed to walk on the sidewalk, adopt a slightly new strategy. Immediately when he gets up, (and his bladder is full from overnight) pop on his collar and leash and take him outside into the street. Hopefully he will relieve himself out of urgency. At which point say "Yes" excitedly, and when he's finished give him a tasty treat. This helps broaden his horizons to the concept of peeing outdoors in general, rather than outdoors in one spot.
Step
3
Praise peeing on walks
Beagles have a fondness for sniffing and following scents. Many of those enticing scent messages require a reply in the form of a quick pee on top of them. When your young Beagle does this, let him know how clever he is so that he decides this is a great idea in future.
Step
4
Avoid returning immediately
However, there is a flaw in rewarding pees on walks. If you praise the pup and then immediately turn to home, he may reason that emptying his bladder means an end to the walk. The clever chap then decides not to relieve himself until the last possible moment, in a bid to get the longest walk possible. This is easily avoided, by making sure you continue walking for a while after he's peed, so that he doesn't make this connection.
Step
5
Use a collar and leash
It helps toilet training (be it in the yard or on walks) if the pup is on a collar and lead. This is a good way of concentrating the dog on sniffing for a pee rather than investigating an interesting leaf or digging a hole.
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Written by Pippa Elliott

Published: 02/06/2018, edited: 01/08/2021

Success Stories and Training Questions

Training Questions and Answers

Question
Leo
Beaglier
10 Weeks
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Question
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Leo
Beaglier
10 Weeks

he used the bathroom in my room only the first time we held his pee all day until he got in my bed and peed then he only peed on puppy pads after that. i take him outside 7 times a day and still no potty. he usually goes right after he eats for the second time so i figured that’s what i’d go off of i took him outside after he ate for the 3rd time and he still hasn’t went potty. i tired taking him out on a leash. i’ve tried to sit outside with him and i’ve tried to bring the puppy pad he used outside so he’d know that’s what he’s outside to do.

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
940 Dog owners recommended

Hello Toccara, I highly recommend follow the Crate Training method from the article I have linked below. I would take pup outside on a leash every time for the next three months. If you have a fenced yard and put pup outside on their own, they normally don't go because they haven't learned that that's why they are out there yet. When you do take pup on a leash, tell pup to "Go Potty" (this pays off later) and walk pup around slowly. The movement is important for helping pup feel the urge to go. When you first do the crate training method, pup will probably hold it a lot the first three days, but by following that method, puppy's only potty option will be outside until their bladder is emptied, so pup should eventually go outside. After pup goes potty outside, you will reward with seven treats, one at a time, and lots of praise. This should be really fun for pup. After a few successes going potty outside due to following this strict protocol pup should start to learn that Go Potty means go potty, and that if they go, they get a treat, to help motivate pup to go quickly. You an also purchase a potty encouraging spray to spray on the area you will be taking them to, so that the smell encourages them to go there also. Keep pup moving, on leash, reward when they go, crate for a while if they don't, then try again. Crate Training method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-german-shepherd-puppy-to-poop-outside Be sure not to put anything absorbent in the crate or pup may have an accident in there. If you want to put a bed in there, use something non-absorbent like www.primopads.com or k9ballistics crate mats until pup is older and fully potty trained. Never put a pee pad in a crate. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Bairavi
Beagle
7 Weeks
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Bairavi
Beagle
7 Weeks

How to train for pee?

Alisha Smith
Alisha S., Dog Trainer
239 Dog owners recommended

Hello! I am sending you quite a bit of information on potty and crate training just in case you want to use the crate to help with potty training. This information is written for puppies, but the procedure is exactly the same for training an adult dog who doesn't quite know where to go potty. Potty training: Know Your Pup. As you spend time with your puppy, learn your puppy’s love language. Just as some people prefer gifts, touch, or time spent together, puppies can be the same way. Some puppies love praise or pets, while others prefer treats. As you get to know your puppy, consider what reward your puppy loves the most. Create a Daily Schedule. It is best to have a routine for your puppy. A schedule helps them understand when to eat, play, and “go to the bathroom.” Your puppy should go out frequently and the routine should be the same every time. When? Start the day by taking your puppy outside, and repeating based on age and ability. They should also go out after napping, chewing, playing, and within 10 to 15 minutes of eating. Although some puppies can sleep for seven hours, it is important to set an alarm and take your pup out during the night. When you do, don’t make a fuss about it. Quietly take them outside with minimal stimulation and light. Praise them if they go to the bathroom and gently return them to their bed or crate. You don’t want them to get stimulated and ready to play in the middle of the night! As you get to know your puppy, you will become aware of their individual habits. Click here to learn more about house training schedules for puppies. Where? Take your puppy to a specific area to urinate or defecate. Be consistent. You can create an area by using urine-soaked paper or bowel movements to help create an aroma to stimulate your puppy. How? Take your puppy out on a leash so they can focus on the desired activity. This will help prevent them from wandering off to play. Once your puppy is in the selected area, use your verbal cue, such as “Hurry Up,” “Poopies,” “Go tinkle,” or any phrase your puppy responds to. What? Know the signs that your puppy has to go to the bathroom. Every animal may have a different “I gotta go” gesture, which often include restlessness, sniffing around, circling, scratching at the door, barking, and, eventually, squatting. At the first sign that your pup has to go, calmly and quickly take them outside to their bathroom spot. Deal with Accidents. Accidents are a normal part of house training a puppy. What to Do If you see your puppy in the process of urinating or defecating inappropriately, calmly and quickly interrupt them in the act. Tell them to stop (either by a jarring sound or command), and immediately take them to an appropriate location for elimination. After your puppy goes to the bathroom, lavishly praise them and offer a treat. Thoroughly clean up accidents, so your puppy is not attracted to this area again. Create a consistent feeding and watering schedule. Depending on the age of your puppy, they will eat three to four times a day. A consistent feeding routine can create a regular bathroom schedule. Take away water about 2 hours before bedtime. Learn more about ideal dog schedules here. What NOT to Do Don’t punish your puppy when they have an accident. At that point, it is too late. When a puppy has an accident in the house and they walk away, within seconds they have already forgotten about what they did. Taking them to the scene of the crime and yelling and/or rubbing their nose in it does not help and, in fact, can harm your puppy! Supervise. The best thing you can do is to prevent accidents and the best way to do this is to supervise your puppy at all times. You can tether your puppy to your waist with a five or six-foot leash and carefully observe them for signs that they need to go to the bathroom. If you can’t supervise, then crate or confine your puppy. The more accidents your puppy has in the house, the more confusing it will be for them and this can delay house training. Reward, Reward, Reward. It is important to give your puppy a reward for their good behavior. This can be for commands such as sitting and coming to you, or for appropriately eliminating outside. In a puppy, a reward can be a couple kibbles of puppy food or a treat, such as a small piece of meat. The treat should be exciting for them and only available as a result of good behavior. Crate training can take days or weeks, depending on your dog's age, temperament and past experiences. It's important to keep two things in mind while crate training: The crate should always be associated with something pleasant and training should take place in a series of small steps. Don't go too fast. Step 1: Introduce your dog to the crate Place the crate in an area of your house where the family spends a lot of time, such as the family room. Put a soft blanket or towel in the crate. Take the door off and let the dog explore the crate at their leisure. Some dogs will be naturally curious and start sleeping in the crate right away. If yours isn't one of them: Bring them over to the crate and talk to them in a happy tone of voice. Make sure the crate door is open and secured so that it won't hit your dog and frighten them. Encourage your dog to enter the crate by dropping some small food treats nearby, then just inside the door, and finally, all the way inside the crate. If they refuse to go all the way in at first, that's OK; don't force them to enter. Continue tossing treats into the crate until your dog will walk calmly all the way into the crate to get the food. If they aren’t interested in treats, try tossing a favorite toy in the crate. This step may take a few minutes or as long as several days. Step 2: Feed your dog meals in the crate After introducing your dog to the crate, begin feeding them their regular meals near the crate. This will create a pleasant association with the crate. If your dog is readily entering the crate when you begin Step 2, place the food dish all the way at the back of the crate. If they remain reluctant to enter, put the dish only as far inside as they will readily go without becoming fearful or anxious. Each time you feed them, place the dish a little further back in the crate. Once your dog is standing comfortably in the crate to eat their meal, you can close the door while they’re eating. The first time you do this, open the door as soon as they finish their meal. With each successive feeding, leave the door closed a few minutes longer, until they’re staying in the crate for 10 minutes or so after eating. If they begin to whine to be let out, you may have increased the length of time too quickly. Next time, try leaving them in the crate for a shorter time period. If they do whine or cry in the crate, don’t let them out until they stop. Otherwise, they'll learn that the way to get out of the crate is to whine, so they'll keep doing it. Step 3: Practice with longer crating periods After your dog is eating their regular meals in the crate with no sign of fear or anxiety, you can confine them there for short time periods while you're home. Call them over to the crate and give them a treat. Give them a command to enter, such as "crate." Encourage them by pointing to the inside of the crate with a treat in your hand. After your dog enters the crate, praise them, give them the treat and close the door. Sit quietly near the crate for five to 10 minutes and then go into another room for a few minutes. Return, sit quietly again for a short time and then let them out. Repeat this process several times a day, gradually increasing the length of time you leave them in the crate and the length of time you're out of sight. Once your dog will stay quietly in the crate for about 30 minutes with you mostly out of sight, you can begin leaving them crated when you're gone for short time periods and/or letting them sleep there at night. This may take several days or weeks. Step 4, Part A: Crate your dog when you leave After your dog can spend about 30 minutes in the crate without becoming anxious or afraid, you can begin leaving them crated for short periods when you leave the house. Put them in the crate using your regular command and a treat. You might also want to leave them with a few safe toys in the crate. Vary the moment during your "getting ready to leave" routine that you put your dog in the crate. Although they shouldn't be crated for a long time before you leave, you can crate them anywhere from five to 20 minutes prior to leaving. Don't make your departures emotional and prolonged—they should be matter-of-fact. Praise your dog briefly, give them a treat for entering the crate and then leave quietly. When you return home, don't reward your dog for excited behavior by responding to them in an enthusiastic way. Keep arrivals low-key to avoid increasing their anxiety over when you will return. Continue to crate your dog for short periods from time to time when you're home so they don't associate crating with being left alone. Step 4, Part B: Crate your dog at night Put your dog in the crate using your regular command and a treat. Initially, it may be a good idea to put the crate in your bedroom or nearby in a hallway, especially if you have a puppy. Puppies often need to go outside to eliminate during the night and you'll want to be able to hear your puppy when they whine to be let outside. Older dogs should also initially be kept nearby so they don't associate the crate with social isolation. Once your dog is sleeping comfortably through the night with the crate near you, you can begin to gradually move it to the location you prefer, although time spent with your dog—even sleep time—is a chance to strengthen the bond between you and your pet. Potential problems Whining: If your dog whines or cries while in the crate at night, it may be difficult to decide whether they’re whining to be let out of the crate, or whether they need to be let outside to eliminate. If you've followed the training procedures outlined above, then your dog hasn't been rewarded for whining in the past by being released from their crate. If that is the case, try to ignore the whining. If your dog is just testing you, they'll probably stop whining soon. Yelling at them or pounding on the crate will only make things worse. If the whining continues after you've ignored them for several minutes, use the phrase they associate with going outside to eliminate. If they respond and become excited, take them outside. This should be a trip with a purpose, not play time. If you're convinced that your dog doesn't need to eliminate, the best response is to ignore them until they stop whining. Don't give in; if you do, you'll teach your dog to whine loud and long to get what they want. If you've progressed gradually through the training steps and haven't done too much too fast, you'll be less likely to encounter this problem. If the problem becomes unmanageable, you may need to start the crate training process over again. Separation anxiety: Attempting to use the crate as a remedy for separation anxiety won't solve the problem. A crate may prevent your dog from being destructive, but they may get injured in an attempt to escape. Separation anxiety problems can only be resolved with counterconditioning and desensitization procedures.

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Nemo
Beagle
3 Months
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Question
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Nemo
Beagle
3 Months

So basically, I took my beagle when it was 45 days. I live in an apartment which doesn't really have a yard. Therefore I potty train her in my washroom. However,she pees anywhere and everywhere in the house. And sometimes poops out of the washroom as well. I take him out to relive himself after getting up, before going to bed, and after meals to poop. Sometimes that's successful and sometimes not. However peeing is a problem definitely !!!! She pees everywhere in the house. I don't stay in the house for long hours and hence cannot put her in a crate . Please tell me what to do, cuz it's becoming impossible for me to train her.

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
940 Dog owners recommended

Hello Prakriti, When you are home you need to follow the crate training or tethering method very strictly - pup should not be free unless she has potties outside within the last 45 minutes or is tethered to you with a leash inside. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-german-shepherd-puppy-to-poop-outside When you have yo be gone for longer than 3 hours, put a disposable real grass pad in the washroom for pup yo gi potty on. www.doggielawn.com www.freshpatch.com www.porchpotty.com Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Daisy
Beagle mix
2 Years
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Daisy
Beagle mix
2 Years

I adopted Daisy from a shelter a few months ago. We have 2 issues we are working on, both related to her getting over-excited.
1. She barks at other dogs we meet on walks (well, she really just goes crazy) and looks aggressive, but is really just over-excited.
2. She won't pee until I walk her at least 20 minutes because she is excited and distracted. I'm already walking her 3 - 1/2 hour walks a day, but would like to be able to send her out on a tether a couple times in between to do her duty. We don't have a fence. She will explore, run, and then sleep in the yard, but not pee.

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
940 Dog owners recommended

Hello Linda, For the peeing and walks I suggest crate training her and temporarily crating her between potty trips. https://wagwalking.com/training/like-a-crate When you take her outside to pee tell her to "Go Potty". If she goes, praise her and feed her five treats, one at a time. If she doesn't go, take her back inside, put her back into the crate, then take her back outside in an hour. Repeat this until she goes potty. After she goes potty in your yard, THEN take her for a walk so that the walk is a reward for peeing first. She is probably partially too distracted to pee right on the walk but she has probably also learned that as soon as she pees that the walk ends so she holds her bladder to keep the walk going. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Ryder
Beagle
3 Months
0 found helpful
Question
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Ryder
Beagle
3 Months

Hello, my name is Kirstin and I recently adopted a puppy that was left behind by a hunter in a dirt pen and then later taken to a rescue where he was free to do his business in a concrete kennel. Now that I have him we are working on potty training. I use a lead and collar and take him out right after sleep/naps and right after eating for many minutes. It has been a week and he still has not had a single potty outside. It seems like hes holding it outside because maybe he is not use to going on grass? Right when I take him back inside he pees! Although after this week he is starting to go by the door which is a good sign I guess because he is associating the two. But anywho, I have had several people tell me its near impossible to fully house train a beagle. So I definitely need tips and any help I can get!I have never raised anything but Lab puppies and other than that I have had adult dogs. Please help!
Thank you,
Kirstin

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
940 Dog owners recommended

Hell Kristen, I highly suggest crate training him using the "Crate Training" method from the article that I have linked below. That method includes tips like using a potty encouraging spray, only letting the puppy have freedom outside of the crate when his bladder is empty, teaching him a "Go Potty" command, and rewarding him when he pees outside. The combination of the structured schedule, only giving him freedom while his bladder is empty, and rewarding him for going potty outside should significantly help! It can be more work at first but it tends to be the quickest and most sure fire way to potty train a puppy so I especially recommend it for puppies that got off on the wrong foot with potty training. It will also limit his freedom in your house to break his old habit of peeing inside while he establishes a new habit of peeing outside. That is important for him to be successful. It will be important for his crate to be the right size, or he may pee in there like he would a kennel. The crate needs to be big enough for him to lay down and circle around but not big enough for him to pee in one end and stand in the other end away from his pee. You can either purchase a smaller crate and buy a second one when he out grows that one and is hopefully potty trained by then, or you can buy an adult sized crate that comes with a metal divider, which most wire crates do, and use the divider to block off the back of the crate so that the part he is in is small enough. Here is the link to the potty training article below. Follow the "Crate Training" method for Ryder and purchase a potty encouraging spray to spray on the ground where you want him to go potty outside to help him understand what to do outside more quickly. Do not skip the treat rewards. I recommend putting a bag or bowl of treats somewhere out of his reach by the door that you take him to go potty through to help you remember and make it more convenient for you. Also, when you are home, take him out as often as the article recommends but when you are gone off, at three months of age he can hold it for three to four hours during the day while in the crate, but no longer. I would try not to push it all the way to four hours most of the time though because he might have an accident if he did something like drank too much water. Three hours is a bit safer. As he gets older you can add one more hour to that number for his maximum amount of time. The number will always be one more hour than he is months of age. So at four months of age he will be able to go up to five hours between potty breaks when needed. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-german-shepherd-puppy-to-poop-outside Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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