Bites a lot (hands, feet and legs) and sometimes even growls
Hello Nicole, At his age that is completely normal and how puppies naturally interact with other puppies and learn - they have to be taught not to bite people. I suggest following the Yelping method right now while also working on the Leave It method. When she gets good at the Leave It command, then you can switch to that and can enforce your Leave It command by using the Pressure method as a gentle way to discipline I she disobeys Leave It. It's important to teach her self-control with the Yelping method Leave It command before disciplining for the biting though or she won't understand why she is being disciplined or what to do instead of biting. She is young, doing what comes naturally, and needs your help to learn something new. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-boxer-puppy-to-not-bite Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
Was this experience helpful?
Our boxer puppy is biting a lot, my 8 year old son was playing with him in the garden earlier when I heard him screaming, he has bitten him all over breaking the skin in a few places, he even clawed his pyjama pants down and bit his bum, bit wife’s ear leaving a gash and broke skin many other times with different people, he is wagging tail when doing it so it looks like play, any suggestions with the children?
Hello Daniel, Work on teaching your pup the "Out" command, which means leave the area. Check out the article linked below for how to do that. You can enforce the command for your kids too once you have taught him what the command means. When they tell him "Out" if he does not obey, get between him and the child and firmly but calmly walk toward him and herd him out of the area near your child until he is several feet away. Stand in front of him, blocking him from getting back to the child until he stops trying to return to that area or walks away from the area entirely. Be firm and calm when you do this. If you get flustered he will likely think you are playing. By using Out, you are teaching him to leave the area completely (removing the temptation to bite) and you are conveying with body language that what you are blocking him from belongs to you and he needs to respect that space or thing. https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-the-out-command/ Also, work on teaching the "Leave It" command. Check out the article linked below and the "Leave It" method. He needs to develop impulse control and Leave It around moving objects is one way to help with that. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite Also, enroll him in a puppy class that has time for puppy play and socialization in a structured way, where the trainer separates puppies to give them a break if things get to rough. This is moderated play and playing with other puppies can help pups learn how to control how hard they bite when they bite. Ideally the class would also have time where everyone practices passing each other's puppies around and handling them while they give treats to teach tolerance too. Many classes also include teaching Leave It. If you can find a Sirius Pup brand class in your city, they may teach all of those things. Look for a similar type of class though. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
Was this experience helpful?
My boxer dog is already a year old.. We have tried different things with him when he was younger (more of a puppy) but he just can't seem to stop biting. Whenever we try to play with him and give him attention, he will bite and attack us.. We tried the yelp method, but it just doesn't seem to work for him. I feel like he thinks he is the alfa of the family, and I just want to know if there's anyway we could change that. Thank you so much for taking your time to help!!
Hello Lana, First, I suggest teaching him the Leave It command. Check out the article linked below and follow the Leave It method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite Second, work on building his respect by practicing the following commands and protocols to build his impulse control, respect, calmness, and listening: Place: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=omg5DVPWIWo Crate manners: https://thegooddog.net/training-videos/free-how-to-training-videos/learn-to-train-the-good-dog-way-the-crate/ Thresholds: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-w28C2g68M Heel article - The turns method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Heel Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTiKVc4ZZWo Dog Training Do’s https://www.solidk9training.com/sk9-blog/2016/09/08/the-ten-commandments-of-dog-training-and-ownership-do-2 Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
Was this experience helpful?
Hi there. Just got my buddy on Dec 26th. I know puppies bite things alot and play. Twitch loves to bite my hands and arms and is biting anything in site sometimes like the end of the coffee table corner of the cement block to our fireplace,coats,shoes,etc. I've had dogs in the past and this is my 2nd boxer. I know their attention span is like 10 secs. I've tried to yell in a high pitch to stop him. It does for a couple seconds. He evens bites at my shirt and towards my neck. What should I use to stop him or calm it down a little? I Even yell stern and slap his nose or butt and doesnt gaze him.
Thanks so much
Hello Thomas, First, know that what you described is normal but you also probably just got a pup with a bit stronger personality this time - not bad just more excitable and bold so the biting seems worse. If you can find a good puppy kindergarten class with time for off-leash play or a free puppy play date class attend one of those with him so that he can learn how to control the pressure of his bite by playing with other puppies. Petco and some other pet stores with training offer free puppy play classes if you call and ask for the schedule. A paid kindergarten class would have the benefits of training too. If you have any friends with puppies under 6 months of age, set up play dates with those puppies too. Moderate the puppies' play and whenever one pup seems overwhelmed or they are all getting too excited, interrupt their play, let everyone calm down, then let the most timid pup go first to see if they still want to play - if they do, then you can let the other puppies go too when they are waiting for permission. Second, check out the article linked below. Starting today, use the "Yelp" method. At the same time however, begin teaching "Leave It" from the "Leave It" method. As soon as pup is good as the Leave It game, start telling pup to "Leave It" when he attempts to bite or is tempted to bite. Reward pup if he makes a good choice. If he disobeys your leave it command, use the Pressure method to gently discipline pup for biting when you told him not to. The order or all of this is very important - the yelp method can be used for the next couple of weeks while pup is learning leave it, but leave it will teach pup to stop the biting entirely. The pressure method teaches pup that you mean what you say without being overly harsh - but because you have taught pup to leave it first, pup clearly understands that you are not just roughhousing (which is what pup probably thinks most of the time right now), so it is more effective. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite When pup gets especially wound up, he probably needs a nap too. At this age puppies will sometimes get really hyper when they are overtired or haven't had any mental stimulation through something like training. When you spot that and think pup could be tired, place pup in their crate or an exercise pen with a food stuffed Kong for a bit to help him calm down and rest. Also, know that mouthiness at this age is completely normal. It's not fun but it is normal for it to take some time for a puppy to learn self-control well enough to stop. Try not to get discouraged if you don't see instant progress, any progress and moving in the right direction in this area is good, so keep at it. Most puppies take about 3 months to really do well with mouthing even with consistent training - my goal for puppies is to have them stop completely by 5 months of age - when their jaws get stronger. Commands that increase self-control in general and teach pup calmness are also good things to teach. These commands will take time to teach of course, but if your pup is a bolder pup, these commands would be especially good to work on over the next year. If you have other friends' with puppies, why not invite them over, sending them the following videos and articles too, and practice it all together - allowing puppies to learn and be socialized. Place: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=omg5DVPWIWo Crate manners: https://thegooddog.net/training-videos/free-how-to-training-videos/learn-to-train-the-good-dog-way-the-crate/ Thresholds: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-w28C2g68M Heel article - The turns method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Heel Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTiKVc4ZZWo Down-Stay: https://www.thelabradorsite.com/train-your-labrador-to-lie-down-and-stay/ Leave It: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite Out - which means leave the room: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-the-out-command/ As far as biting objects, I suggest teaching Leave It, Out, Crate Training, tethering pup to you with a leash as needed, and using a spray deterrent on the areas pup tends to chew the most - such as bitter apple or bitter melon spray. A strong leave it and Out command are super important here but that will take some time to teach so spraying a deterrent spray can help manage. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
Was this experience helpful?
Hi my son got a boxer puppy and I'm grandma and I babysit her during the day while he works and since I'm with her all day she comes to me when she gets scared or pretty much whenever she wants anything. When he first got her I took her everywhere I went, errands in the car and she pretty much just slept the whole time. When it was time for her first vet visit we put her harness on and drove to the vet's office, when we arrived I put the leash on her to take her into the vet. Let me explain that first of all we have a huge back yard and I would go out 3 or 4 times a day and throw toys for her and let her run a play, my son insisted that I not take her for walks around the neighborhood or anywhere for that matter until she got her second shots so she had never been on a leash. So when we got there and I attached the leash to her harness she wouldn't move we had to pick her up the vet was very gentle gave her her physical and shots and gave her a treat and we left she was really timid in the car on the way home now she relates the harness, collar and leash and even the car to that experience and when I put her in the car she just shakes and acts terrified the whole time and if I'm able to get the harness on her when I attach the leash she will not move or walk. I'm not worried about exercise because of our huge fenced in yard but I really feel like she's missing out not going on walks around the neighborhood and it breaks my heart to see how scared she is in the car. I don't want to leave her at home all the time. If you have any recommendations they would be greatly appreciated.
Hello Janell, I would definitely work on desensitizing her to walking, the harness, the leash and car again. At this age, this fear can very likely be overcome, but if you quit working on it, pup may stay afraid into adulthood, and she will need to be able to travel and walk on a leash later in life, in addition to needing the socialization now to develop a great temperament as an adult. Harness reintroduction video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tn5b8u1YS_g&feature=emb_title Getting pup used to wearing the leash again - I would start with having pup just drag the leash around the house again, then progressing to the training where she walks with you: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-your-puppy-to-accept-leash For the car riding, start practicing Down-Stay and Sit- Stay in the car without going anywhere. Play treat hiding - where treats are placed on the floor of the stationary vehicle, until pup likes being in the car again. Do this without the car moving until pup is visibly relaxed in the car again. When pup can handle being in the car, start taking pup to fun but calm locations close by - such as a local field or calm park in or near your neighborhood. You want pup to associate the car with fun things but also things that are calm and not overwhelming, until pup is able to relax in the car again and not expect a visit to the vet as the norm. Pay attention to pup's body language and the environment. Some pups don't want to walk because they are afraid of a neighborhood dog in a fence barking, construction workers, funny objects (like Christmas decorations), and things we would never think twice about. If pup isn't familiar with something (no matter how normal it may seem to us) it can feel scary to pup and be a reason why they don't want to leave the safety of the yard. If pup seems nervous or something might be bothering them in the environment, work on helping pup overcome that fear first by using play and treats to distract pup and then reward pup for any confidence, calmness, or tolerance they shows around the fearful thing. Practice this further away from the scary thing first and very gradually work up to pup being able to pass that thing as her confidence grows with your help. If she is nervous being simply out of your yard, like on walks also, spend time with her outside in your front yard, a close by cul-de-sac and other areas of your neighborhood, with pup on a long leash. Simply sit and relax there to let her get used to sights and sounds in the area, and play fun games on the long leash, like short range fetch, tug, easy treat finding games - where treats are sprinkled in grass or dirt without pesticides or car spills, and Round Robin - a come game on a long leash that involved pup going back and forth between two people to earn treats. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
Was this experience helpful?