Believe it or not, the little Dachshund is one of the likeliest dogs to bite as they get older. Because they were bred to hunt small critters and work independently, to be their own version of the pest patrol, Dachshunds can behave in a dominant and even aggressive way,. If not trained early as puppies that nipping and biting, even in play, is not acceptable, they are more likely to display dominant and aggressive biting later in life.
While it is easy to think your pin-sized Dachshund puppy is cute as a button while he is playing and gnawing on your hand, he won’t be cute at all when as an adult, he bites at your hand when you remove his food dish or snaps at someone else see when they reach towards you while you are holding him. Your best bet is to teach him early that biting is not OK.
Daschunds are independent hunters that are prone to dominance and prey driven behavior. What is play as a puppy can quickly become aggression as an adult. Sensitive, intelligent Dachshunds do not respond well to being hit, so this is not an effective deterrent for puppy biting. Instead, deter them with a withdrawal of attention and play, make chewing you unpleasant, and provide alternative, appropriate chewing items. Be consistent with your method of preventing biting and teach your Dachshund puppy that chewing is for toys and bones, not hands, furniture, feet or the cat!
So my sone would throw up an I don't want puppy to get it, my daughter tries to pick my pup up to put him in his cage, and he'll attack her viciously. I don't know how to deal with it possitively.
Hello Kylee, Teach Bakora the "Leave It" command by following the "Leave It" method from the article that I have linked below. When you get to the point where the article says to practice with clothing articles and household items, practice with plates of food, but be ready to block Bakora from getting the food during this training. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite Also if Bakora is attacking your daughter for touching him, he should be disciplined by you. It should be unpleasant without physically harming him. Also, work on getting him used to being handed by having your daughter, with your help, practice gently touching him in various spots on his body and giving him a treat every time she touches him. Practice by touching his an ear and giving him a treat, touching his tail and giving him a treat, touching his belly and giving him a treat, and repeat this with every other area of his body. This will prevent the need to discipline him as often. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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So we have had our pup now for 3 weeks and training him is a struggle.
We have successfully gotten the sit command to a T but we can deter his biting. He bites hands, sleeves, shoes, about anything he can get his hands on.
We have tried the tap method but he doesnt seem bothered by whats tapping him and is fixated on sleeves or trouser bottoms.
We have all sorts of toys with different textures and material but he will only play with them for so long then its back to trying to get us.
Any suggestions would be a massive help.
Hello Charlie, Check out the article that I have linked below instead. Start out by using the "Bite Inhibition" method while you also work on teaching "Leave It" from the "Leave It" method at the same time. When your puppy gets to the point where he can leave clothing articles alone using the "Leave It" method and following the method's instructions, then go straight to telling him to "Leave It" when he starts to bite. If he continues to bite you after you have commanded him to "Leave It" once you have taught him what that means and he has the skills to do it, then follow the "Pressure" Method to discipline him for his disobedience. You must first teach him what he is supposed to be doing and how to do it by teaching the leave it method and bite inhibition method though or the pressure method will not work as well. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite Also, when he gets really wound up, let him calm down in the crate with a Kong stuffed with his own food and a little peanut butter or liver paste. This will give him a calm activity to do. Many young puppies will get more and more wound up when they are actually just tired and need some calm down time. If you give him a fun chew toy, like a food stuffed Kong, then the crate will still be a pleasant place. Also make sure that you are providing him with plenty of toys during your interactions. Puppies need to chew. You cannot teach one to stop using him mouth during the young teething period, but you can teach him what to put his mouth on instead, ie his own toys.when you use the "Bite Inhibition" method when you Yelp to get his attention you must be loud and high pitched. It should surprise him. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
Sorry is meant to be cant deter his biting.
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He is very possessive and bites myself and my husband when he try to take things back he has stolen out of his mouth. He has swallowed earplugs ect and will try to swallow things before we can get it and bite anyone who tries to approach him or run away. He will also roll into his back when he doesn't want to be picked up and will nip at us and bite us if we try to pick him up. He also hates kids and tries to nip them. After getting bite over 10 different times, I've tried all the nice ways and nothing works so we hold him down or hit him on the face to get him to stop biting. I feel really guilty but have no idea how to get him to stop
Hello Angie, First of all I would recommend getting him used to wearing a basket muzzle. A basket muzzle will allow him to open his mouth still so that you can reward him with treats or a straw dipped in a bit of peanut butter, through the muzzle. To get him used to the muzzle, feed him his dinner one piece of food at a time, and give him a piece every time that he sniffs the muzzle, touches it, lets you touch it to him, lets you hold it onto his face, and finally when he will let you put it on him completely. Expect this to take one to two weeks before you can put it on him. After he is used to the muzzle, then he needs to be put on a routine to build his general respect for you. Check out this Wag! article bellow for how to do that: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-doberman-to-listen-to-you Focus on the "Working" method the most from that article. All of those methods can be implemented at the same time though and would be beneficial. If you can only do one though, do the "Working" method. While you are working on building his respect, have him wear the muzzle so that his biting does not get him what he wants. When he tries to bite and he cannot, and he is still required to follow through with whatever you have asked of him, then that will partially help to decrease the biting. He also needs to be desensitized to touch and learn to "Drop It". To desensitize him to touch, practice the following with the muzzle on. Gently touch him in an area and then giving him a treat. For example, touch his ear and give him a treat. Touch his paw and give him a treat. Touch his tail and give him a treat. Practice this will all of the areas of his body, including his head, for a few minutes everyday until he is completely comfortable being touched and even enjoys it. When he is not wearing the muzzle, then practice the "Drop It" command with an item that he only moderately likes, and when he drops it, give him something else that he likes even more. He will need you to follow through when he does not drop the item though, so you will want a pair of thick gloves in case you need to get something out of his mouth safely. The goal is to prevent that sort of interaction in the first place though, and to build trust by showing him that if he gives you something, you will give him something else. Later this can be implemented by trading him one of his own toys for your item when he steals something. He will need a lot of practice before then though. His issue is likely two fold. One is a definite lack of respect for your family, which needs to be dealt with using the methods described in the article I included above. The second issue is trust, which needs to be built through handling exercises and practicing "Drop It". He needs both dealt with. If you are not seeing at least a small amount of progress in a month, then I would recommend hiring a local trainer with experience with aggression, who uses both positive reinforcement and fair corrections and is good at creating structure and boundaries for dogs. This training will not cure everything in a month or even two, but if it is working, then you should see a small amount of improvement to encourage you to continue it, so pay attention. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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