He may look menacing, but he also sounds pretty terrifying too. When your Doberman was a puppy, his barking wasn’t a problem. In fact, it was pretty entertaining. However, now he’s grown up and still won’t stop barking. It means the postman is terrified of delivering your mail. It means as soon as someone walks past your house they are ushered past to the sound of your Doberman. His barking is also dampening relations with the neighbors, who are fed up with listening to him bark at all hours of the day and night.
Training him to stop barking will bring you some much-needed peace and quiet. If you introduce a second dog into your home, training him to not bark will stop your new dog from picking up the bad habit, too. This training will also mean other dog walkers may feel more inclined to stop for a chat.
Training your Doberman to stop barking is a lot easier than most people realize. The first thing you will need to do is take a number of steps to deter him from barking in the first place. Once you have got him associating barking with negative consequences, you can then focus on using positive reinforcement. You will need to use obedience commands to first teach him how to bark on command, so you can then instruct him to be quiet, too.
If he’s a puppy, he should be a fast learner. This means you could see results in just a week or two. However, if he’s older with years of barking under his collar, then you may need up to six weeks. If you can get this training right, you won’t have to worry about introducing your friendly Doberman to guests and strangers ever again.
Before you can start training, you will need to get your hands on a few bits. A water spray bottle will be needed for one of the methods. You will also need high-value treats or your Doberman's favorite food broken into small pieces. A toy or two will also be required.
Set aside 10 minutes each day for training and try to find a time where you both won’t be distracted. Remember to be consistent and always end the training sessions on a high note.
Apart from that, you just need patience and some earplugs, then work can begin!
Got her a few days ago and she does nothing but cry and whine when I step out of the room or even when I leave to go to work. She’s doing so well with all other training, it’s just the bark. And it’s beginning to stress me out. What all can I do?
I’ve tried these methods:
Tv/music while away
T-shirt with my scent in the kennel
Comfy bed and an area to run around and play
Hello Chierra, I suggest working on building pup's independence. I suggest the following commands to help build independence. Out command: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-the-out-command/ Place: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=omg5DVPWIWo Distance Down Stay on a long leash outside: Crate Manners - great calmness and gentle respect building exercise : https://thegooddog.net/training-videos/free-how-to-training-videos/learn-to-train-the-good-dog-way-the-crate/ Surprise method - for introducing crate for first time: https://wagwalking.com/training/like-a-crate Interactions with pup should be a bit more boring and structured for a while - especially with you. Don't act sorry for pup, don't allow pushiness, don't fuss over her when you leave or return. When you first come home from somewhere or return to the room, ignore pup for five minutes to condition a calmer response from her. Work on her staying on Place in one room while you move about the room and go in and out of the room (work up to that part). You want pup to have to exhibit and practice self-control and independence out of respect for you - staying on Place out of obedience in this case. Practice pup staying on Place instead of always trying to follow you. Teach pup a Quiet command. When pup whines at the door, tell pup Quiet once she knows that command well. Quiet - teach with a bark at first, then start using the command when she whines too and reward when she stops whining to help her generalize it to mean stop whining also: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bark When she whines, use a small canister of pressurized, unscented air called a pet convincer. Calmly tell her "Quiet" through the door, then if she continues crying, briefly open the door and spray a small puff of unscented air from the pet convincer at her side and leave again. If she chooses to leave the door and go lie down calmly, if someone else is in the room with her, they can give her a treat calmly as a reward for calming down. All of this should be done with a calm, no none-sense attitude, not angrily or loudly or acting sorry for her. You want to express the attitude you want her to feel - which is calm and not sorry for her or angry. Only spray the air at her chest or side, do NOT spray her in the face. Also, only use unscented air, don't use citronella! You can also wait to use the Pet Convinced and just work on building independence through the obedience commands and other strategies I mention to see if the correction is needed. Finally, working on some agility type obstacles with new surfaces, obstacles, and things to overcome can help build confidence if she is generally nervous. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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we have a Doberman that's almost 2, and although she's a wonderful dog and is very sweet, she is not so nice to our neighbor's puppy. He's a golden retriever under a year old and is a people person , but when my dog sees him she goes crazy. She won't stop barking at him and if he crosses the line I'm scared she may try to bite him, but she's never bitten anyone before and never would, not even our family cat, but I'm scared that she just gets so protective that she'll try to defend our yard and cause more of a problem. She gets plenty of exercise and tons of love, buy it's just this puppy that she goes crazy over.
I believe maybe it's because we didn't socialize her very well as a puppy with other dogs, but we're trying a shock collar right now (she already has an elecitric fence). she doesn't listen to the beeping, but she did respond once to the shock.
What are ways we can efficiently train her to make her not freak out so much? We want our neighbors to see that's she's a great dog and not as a terror. would a shock collar work? we would get a trainer but with everything that's happening now that's not an option.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated! We want our neighbors to not dislike our dog and we want their family to be able to play outside and not have to go in because my dog is barking at theirs. I've told the mother already that we're starting to train her, but still I want to find the best way to make this work.
Thank you so much!
Hello Sam, Shock collars can be very effective but what they are good at is enforcing a known command really consistently. They are best used in combination with positive reinforcement. For example, you teach pup commands like Leave It, Quiet, Out, or Say Hi, and reward pup for obedience and correct for disobedience once pup knows the commands well - so that pup understands how to avoid a correction, has the skills to be able to do what's needed due to practice and training beforehand, is motivated by rewards to want to obey, and doesn't just associate the correction with the other dog but with their own disobedience. What you don't want is for pup to associate the correction with the other dog by just correcting pup while they are reacting toward the other dog - without any prior training. Start by teaching the commands I mentioned: Leave It method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite Quiet method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bark Out command - which means leave the area: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-the-out-command/ Come - Reel In method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-whippet-to-recall Say Hi (Or Touch) - used to teach pup to do touch the fence without reacting to create a positive association with puppy's presence later on in the training (pup won't be ready for this level of training at first): https://www.petful.com/behaviors/what-tricks-can-i-train-my-dog/ Work on teaching pup how to do those commands. Use rewards like treats, and praise pup as soon as they get something right while learning - even before the treat is delivered so that they are being given feedback right as they do the correct action to help them realize that is what they are supposed to be learning. Purchase or make a long training leash (20' or 30' foot non-retractable) to use for commands like Come, Leave It, and Out, and to use later when you add the e-collar back in. I am not sure if your e-collar is a remote training collar or an automatic bark collar. If it is a bark collar, you will obviously only use it in combination with teaching the Quiet command and rewarding quietness, while the collar corrects the barking. If it's an automatic training collar it can be used in combination with a long leash (to physically show pup what to do like come toward you or move away from something) to enforce Come and Out and Leave It also when pup ignores your command, after the command has been taught and practiced with positive reinforcement methods. Work on teaching those commands and work up to pup being able to obey them around other types of distractions like people acting loud or silly or dogs walking down the street. When pup is good at obeying during those times, practice the commands on the far end of the yard with pup on the long leash while the puppy is in their yard also. Practice like that until your dog can obey and ignore pup while on the long leash further away from the puppy. Gradually decrease the distance between your dog and the puppy at the fence as your dog gets to the point where they can stay focused on you and ignore the puppy. Practice this until your dog can handle eventually being by the fence with puppy on the other side and still pay attention to you and ignore pup - this will take time and practice to work up to that point so keep at it. When your dog can handle ignoring the puppy while you are directly working with them, also begin just associating the puppy's presence with good things. Whenever your dog is in the yard and ignoring the puppy or staying calm, praise and give a treat for him simply being tolerant - you want him to eventually start to ignore the puppy's presence on his own without your reminders so that you get to the point where he is calm around the puppy even when you aren't there enforcing it with training tools, rewards, and commands. Interrupt pup immediately as soon as he starts "thinking bad thoughts" - opposed to waiting for a full explosion. Watch his body language and interrupt things like staring, tensing up, growling, fixating, and ignoring you. He is likely to learn better if you can interrupt before he is as aroused as he would be while barking and growling. Reward calmness, ignoring pup, and focus on you. If you are using a remote training collar opposed to an automatic bark collar - make sure that you are fitting it correctly and finding the correct stimulation level to use with the collar for your particular dog. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1cl3V8vYobM Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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She barks at the least noise outside the house and when she sees another dog or person outside she barks although she is friendly when they come up to her. She constantly whines even when there are people in the room with her.
Hello Sheila, First, for the barking, I suggest combining a few things in your case. You need a way to communicate with him so I suggest teaching the Quiet command from the Quiet method in the article I have linked below - don't expect this alone to work but it will be part of the puzzle for what I will suggest next. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bark Next, once pup understands what Quiet means you will choose an interrupter. A stimulation bark-collar or Pet Convincer are two of the most effective types of interrupter for most dogs. A pet convincer is a small canister of pressurized, unscented air that you can spray a quick puff of at the dog's side to surprise them enough to help them calm back down. (Don't use citronella and avoid spraying in the face!). Only use a high quality bark-collar for this. I prefer the collars that will allow you to choose the stimulation level manually, then use the lowest level pup indicates they can feel - which might only look like pup acting like a bug is in them, looking around, moving their ears, or some other subtle response. In situations where you know pup will bark or is already barking (catch them before they bark if you can), command "Quiet". If they obey, reward with a treat and very calm praise. If they bark anyway or continue to bark, say "Ah Ah" firmly but calmly and give a brief correction. Repeat the correction each time they bark until you get a brief pause in the barking. When they pause, praise and reward then. The combination of communication, correction, and rewarding - with the "Ah Ah" and praise to mark their good and bad behavior with the right timing, is very important. Once pup is calmer in general after the initial training, practice exposing him a lot to the things that trigger the barking normally (make a list - even if it's long). Whenever he DOESN'T bark around something that he normally would have, calmly praise and reward him to continue the desensitization process - this last part is the real goal, where you want to focus a lot of training. the initial training simply gets you to the point where you can reward pup for good responses - for those calm responses to become long term habit, you want to reward pup for being in that calm mindset often. While you are not home, confine him in a crate or room that doesn't look out the windows right now - barking at things out the window lets him practice the bad behavior over and over again and barking is a self-rewarding behavior because of the arousing chemicals released in a dog's brain - so once a dog starts he is naturally encouraged to continue it and stays in that state of mind if you aren't there to interrupt. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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We have two problems we are trying to solve, but right now, the second is the priority
1. We have separated our two Doberman dogs due to a violent attack from youngest to oldest. We have created proper physical space within our house, have Routines that ensure physical activity, play, and love but separately.
Question: the safest way to bring them together a few times each day for play.
Ruby- the dog that did the attacking is also barking at everyone who walks by house, and even though she is on a collar that keeps her within the boundaries of our yard- it scary to the neighbors.
She comes if I clap really loud and call her name, but I’m feeling like I cannot out her outside without me, and that creates a limitation for her because she needs the exercise
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Dusty steals food from the kitchen table.
He jumps on us.
He bites the little Maltese poodle.
He barks for nothing and when other dogs bark he becomes unsure of himself and then hurts the other dogs
Hello, Dusty is the perfect age to start dog training. Training him will turn him from an unruly dog to one that is a pleasure to own. It is worth the investment of your time and the cost is very reasonable. I can give you a few guides to read that have methods and tips you can use to work on the issues. For the food from the kitchen table: https://wagwalking.com/training/not-jump-on-the-counter Try the Kitchen Mat Method and adapt it to the table area. For the jumping: Try the Hand Signals Method https://wagwalking.com/training/not-jump-on-you. And for the barking, try the Quiet Method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite. Taking your dog to obedience classes will give him the confidence he needs to be sure of himself and that should prevent the lashing out at other dogs. Try the Establish a Threshold Method: https://wagwalking.com/training/not-attack-other-dogs. Good luck!
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I recently adopted a 16 month old Doberman. I have 7 other dogs...Tiana barks several times a night at my doorway to wake me and and won’t stop until I get out of bed. This happens 2-3 times a night. She has the choice to sleep in my bed or in the living room. She has access to the yard 24/7 with a doggy door. I can’t seem to get this to stop. She is very loud and consistent with the barks. I have used the water bottle and the stop/quiet commands and nothing seems to be working right now. Is there a way to stop this behavior. I absolutely refuse to use a shock collar as I have seen other videos that recommend it.
Hello Jerri, I recommend crating pup at night. First, work on teaching the Quiet command during the day using the Quiet method from the article linked below. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bark Second, during the day practice the Surprise method from the article linked below. Whenever pup stays quiet in the crate for 5 minutes, sprinkle some treats into the crate without opening it, then leave the room again. As he improves, only give the treats every 10 minutes, then 15 minutes, 20 minutes, 30 minutes, 45 minutes, 1 hour, 1.5 hour, 2, hour, 3 hour. Practice crating him during the day for 1-3 hours each day that you can. If you are home during the day, have lots of 30 minute - 1 hour long sessions with breaks between to practice this, to help pup learn sooner. Whenever he cries in the crate, tell him "Quiet". If he gets quiet - Great! Sprinkle treats in after five minutes if he stays quiet. If he continues barking or stops and starts again, spray a quick puff of air from a pet convincer at his side through the crate while calmly saying "Ah Ah", then leave again. Only use unscented air canisters, DON'T use citronella! And avoid spraying in the face. Surprise method: https://wagwalking.com/training/like-a-crate Repeat the rewards when quiet and the corrections whenever he cries. If pup doesn't bark when crated during the day, only at night, then just work on the Quiet method and skip the Surprise method practice during the day, then address nights the way I outline below either way. When he cries at night (in the crate - where he needs to be sleeping for now) before it has been 8 hours (so you know it's not a potty issue), tell him Quiet, and correct with the pet convincer if he doesn't become quiet and stay quiet. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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How can i train my 3 year old Doberman to stop barking at people and how to train her easily?
Hello. I am going to send you some training exercises you can use to help make your walks or outings a bit more peaceful. You can use the tips below and apply them to both humans and other dogs. The first step is to reframe what an oncoming dog means to your dog. From a safe distance, have your leashed dog view another dog. As the new dog comes into view, drop a lot of enticing meat treats just in front of your dog’s nose. Ignore any hysterics for now, but back up and create more space if your dog is unwilling to eat. This part is hard for humans — I understand. It helps to see your dog’s behavior for what it most likely is: fear vs. disobedience. The training reinforcer MUST be a great one, such as real meat. It is critical that the appearance of the new dog causes meat to fall from the sky. When the other dog is out of your dog’s view, all treats stop. We want your dog to predict that other dogs near him means that YUMMY FOOD will appear! As you are reframing your dog’s opinion of seeing other leashed dogs, be careful where you take your dog, and be protective of what he is exposed to. One fight can create a reactive dog. Consider not walking your dog for 30 days as you reprogram his opinions of other dogs. Instead, sit on your front porch or in your garage with your dog on leash, and practice treating every time another dog comes into your dog’s line of sight. During this time, engage your dog’s mind with mind puzzles, obedience work, and fun stuff like games in the house or yard. You know you have made great progress when your dog sees another dog, and he turns his head away from the once-threatening dog and looks into your eyes, expecting a treat. Once your dog is looking at his (former) trigger and then looking expectantly up at you for a treat, you can begin to put this skill on cue. Tell the dog, sit, "watch me" or whatever command you want to use for this exercise. Remember to go slowly. You will see a significant change in his behavior after a month of consistent practice.
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She doesn’t stop barking and also uses the restroom inside of th house
Hello Sadie, I suggest going back to the basics with her for a couple of months and act as if she isn't potty trained at all to stop all accidents from happening so that she will develop a habit of holding it consistently while in the house and wanting to keep your home clean. After a couple of months if she has been completely accident free, very gradually give her more freedom - but when you start, still go outside with her at first to ensure she is going potty and not getting distracted. To crate train for at least two months to get her back on track more strictly at first, check out the Crate Training method from the article linked below. Make sure that the crate doesn't have anything absorbent in it - including a soft bed or towel. Check out www.primopads.com or k9ballistics.com if you need a non-absorbent bed for her. Make sure the crate is only big enough for her to turn around, lie down and stand up, and not so big that she can potty in one end and stand in the opposite end to avoid it. Dogs have a natural desire to keep a confined space clean so it needs to be the right size to encourage that natural desire. Use a cleaner that contains enzymes to clean any previous or current accidents - only enzymes will remove the smell and remaining smells encourage the dog to potty in the same location again later. The method I have linked below was written for younger puppies, since your dog is older you can adjust the times and take her potty less frequently. I suggest taking her potty every 3 hours when you are home. After 1.5 hours (or less if she has an accident sooner) of freedom out of the crate, return her to the crate while her bladder is filling back up again until it has been 3 hours since her last potty trip. When you have to go off she should be able to hold her bladder in the crate for 5-8 hours - less at first while she is getting used to it and longer once she is accustomed to the crate. Only have her wait that long when you are not home though, take her out about every 3 hours while home. You want her to get into the habit of holder her bladder between trips and not just eliminating whenever she feels the urge and you want to encourage that desire for cleanliness in your home - which the crate is helpful for. Less freedom now means more freedom later in life. Crate Training method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-german-shepherd-puppy-to-poop-outside If she is not already used to a crate expect crying at first. When she cries and you know she doesn't need to go potty yet, ignore the crying. Most dogs will adjust if you are consistent. You can give her a food stuffed hollow chew toy to help her adjust and sprinkle treats into the crate during times of quietness to further encourage quietness. While home, you can also tether pup to you with a leash to prevent her from sneaking off to have an accident - this isn't quite as effective as crate training but you can combine the two a bit if you want pup to be out of the crate a bit more while you are home. For the barking, check out this article and the Desensitize and Quiet method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bark Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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Barks in the house at nothing at all barks to go out 10 minutes after he’s been out barks on the lead at people and their dogs barks when free running and spots them about 200 yards away running over to them and barking
Hello Gill, Is Oscar friendly when greeting people and other dogs and just overly excited or fearful or aggressive towards others? If pup is not aggressive, but simply overly reactive or excited, I recommend teaching the Quiet command, and desensitizing pup to the things he tends to bark at outside and to other dogs you pass. Quiet methods and Desensitize method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bark Passing Approach - reward Quietness while repeating passes - only greet other dogs during the training if pup is friendly. Not if pup is aggressive: https://wagwalking.com/training/greet-other-dogs More desensitizing videos: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLAA4pob0Wl0W2agO7frSjia1hG85IyA6a Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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I have tried everything.but cant.get her to stop braking and.now she has tried.to bit a few.of.my friends that she knows. Mayne the way they ame in to my house?
Hello there. It sounds like you have your hands full. I am going to provide you with information on how to correct this behavior. You won’t be able to solve your dog’s overprotective behavior in one day. In the meantime, you don’t want to put your life on hold. You can still invite guests into your home as long as you prioritize managing your dog’s behavior. You’ll need a short-term strategy to start showing your overprotective dog what behavior is unacceptable while also keeping your guests safe. There are a few ways to do this. Leash: Keeping your dog on a leash while friends are visiting gives you control over your dog’s actions. Leash him up before the doorbell rings and keep him close as you greet your guests. During the visit, you can let the leash drag and only use it if you have to. Muzzle: If you feel his behavior warrants the use of a muzzle for the time being while you work on solving this problem, then it may be a wise choice. Separate Room: Your dog won’t get better without practice, but sometimes you have to weigh the risks versus rewards. If your overprotective dog is in the beginning stages of training, keeping him separated from guests might be best. You don’t want to put a friend’s safety at risk or needlessly stress out your dog. As long as you keep working toward stopping the behavior, separating an overprotective dog from company is a temporary management solution. Start Obedience Training Obedience training is a must for every dog, and it’s especially important for overprotective dogs. Working with your dog on things like “sit-stay,” “down-stay,” and “heel,” will help build his impulse control. He’ll start seeing you as a capable leader and will turn to you for guidance. A mistake many pup parents make is stopping obedience training once their dog masters the basics skills. Being well-trained is about more than knowing how to sit when a person holds a treat in front of their face. It’s a lifetime lesson, and even senior dogs need regular training. Commit to training your dog several times a day for short periods of time. Make Your Dog Work for Affection You can’t help but smother your dog with love every time he’s within petting distance, but that isn’t always what’s best for him. He will start to feel entitled to your attention, and that’s part of the problem. To remedy this, initiate a “work for it” program that allows you to show your dog affection as long as he earns your attention in appropriate ways. Make him sit, stay calm, and do whatever else you ask before doling out whatever it is he wants. If he’s excited for dinner, make him sit and leave it before digging in. If he wants in your lap, ask him to do a trick first. Never give your dog attention if he rudely nudges your hand or barks in your face. He needs to know polite behavior, and polite behavior only, is how he gets what he wants. You ignore everything else. Involve Other People in the Dog’s Life Most overprotective dogs choose to guard only the person they feel closest to. It’s usually the same person who fills their food bowls, takes them on walks, and handles training. They become obsessively attached, and a strong bond gradually mutates into overprotective behavior. Putting some space between you and your dog will help him learn to trust other people. Enlist the entire family’s help and take a step back in your role as primary caregiver. Have someone else feed the dog a few times a week, and encourage other people to engage her in playtime. This will help him be more comfortable with different people. Socialize Socialization is best done during the puppy stages, but even adult and senior dogs benefit from new experiences. Exposing your overprotective dog to new places, experiences, and people, will help him learn that not everyone is out to hurt you. Make sure each new experience is positive, and encourage your dog without forcing him to interact. If your dog is afraid, you don’t want to make things worse. Take socialization at the pace he’s comfortable with. If he seems overwhelmed, back up and try something a little smaller. These are some general ideas and they can be modified to fit your dynamic. These behaviors do take time, I am talking months, to correct. And sometimes the behaviors get worse before they get better. So just push through that time if that starts to happen.
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