It has been a whirlwind adventure since your Doberman came into your life. He’s everything you hoped he would be, tenacious, intelligent and full of energy. However, he’s also got a rather bad habit. You occasionally hear a yelp as your Doberman gets excited and nips one of your kids. He also gets snappy when you have guests over and you can’t think of anything worse than him biting the in-laws. Things are also getting a bit worrying when you go out for walks. Rather than sniffing and saying hello to other dogs, your Doberman gets aggressive and tries to bite them.
Training him to stop biting is essential for several reasons. If the biting continues he may become more aggressive and do someone serious harm at some point. If that happens he may have to be put down. You also don’t want to risk the health of your small children or have to worry when he meets new people.
If the habit has developed over many years, training your Doberman to stop biting can be challenging. The first thing you need to do is take a number of steps to deter him from biting in the first place. You will also have to channel his energy into something more productive, through the use of toys and stimulating games. As with most dogs, Dobermans respond best to positive reinforcement, so you will need to focus on that.
If he’s a puppy the habit should be relatively new and therefore easier to break. You could see results in just a week or so. However, if he’s older and the habit has developed over many years then you may need up to six weeks to fully stamp out the habit. Succeed and you can leave him unsupervised to play indoors with strangers and roam outside off his leash.
Before you start work, you will need to collect a few bits. A water spray bottle and a deterrence collar will be needed for one of the methods. You will also need some mouthwatering treats. Alternatively, break his favorite food into small pieces.
You will need to set aside 10 minutes each day for training. However, the more time you can spend being vigilant and reacting to his biting will speed up the learning process. If your Doberman's biting stems from aggression, consider consulting with a behaviorist or professional trainer to help you choose the best approach to training.
Once you have all that, just bring patience and a positive attitude, then work can begin!
when he is left alone he chews at the furniture especially the settee (have had 3 settees) do not want to use a muzzle.
Hello Janet, Lugar needs to be crate trained or confined somewhere that is free of household items, including furniture. He also needs to be given plenty of interesting chew-toys to chew on while confined and free. I recommend stuffing hollow chew-toys with his dog food and bit of peanut butter or cheese. You can soak the food in water until it turns to mush and then mix the peanut butter, cheese, or liver past into it, and freeze the toy for an added challenge. It is natural for dogs to chew. The goal is to teach them to chew only their own toys and not your items. You cannot stop all chewing. The only way to effectively teach a dog what to chew and not chew when you are not at home is to safely confine your dog with his own toys, so that he will learn to prefer those items and create a good lifelong habit of chewing chew-toys. Stuff the toys with food to help him learn to chew on them and play with him with the toys when you are at home, to also make them fun. If you confine him somewhere other than a crate, in addition to giving him chew-toys you can also purchase an automatic treat dispenser to keep him busy. Pet Tutor and Auto Trainer are two options. These devices detect when your dog is being quiet and calm and rewards him with pieces of his own food. This can give him something to focus on, but also be sure to supply him with chew-toys, and stuff those chew-toys with food while he is learning to chew those instead of other things. If you do not stuff them with food, then he may not notice the toys until he later learns what they are for. If Lugar has not been introduced to a crate yet, then check out the article that I have linked below to introduce one to him. https://wagwalking.com/training/like-a-crate When you are home, spray the furniture that he tries to chew with bitter apple or bitter melon spray, provide him with chew-toys in the rooms where he hangs out, and supervise him. He needs to be taught through confinement with tasty chew-toys and through your supervision what to chew and not chew. You can purchase the spray at most major pet stores or online. When Lugar has not chewed on any of your items in your home when you are present for at least four to six-months, then you can see if he is ready for freedom by leaving him alone for ten minutes. If he chews something during that time, he needs to be confined for at least three more months before you can try again. If he does well, then the next time, leave him for twenty-minutes. Anytime he chews something he should not, he is not ready to be left alone, and him being allowed to chew your items without you there to teach him can delay his trustworthiness in the house by months or years if he develops a bad habit of it. Therefore, if you start to give him more freedom alone and he chews something, then postpone the freedom and confine him when you are gone until he is older. If he does well, then continue to leave him alone for gradually longer and longer periods of time, until you workup to four hours. If he does well for four hours, then you can leave him for the whole day as long as it does not go past his bladder capacity. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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The challenge is that when i try to take her out on a walk she bites the leash and wont walk, she also bites me and has made me get small cuts.
Hello Ana Belen, First, check out the article linked below. Starting today, use the "Yelp" method. At the same time however, begin teaching "Leave It" from the "Leave It" method. As soon as pup is good at the Leave It game, start telling pup to "Leave It" when she attempts to bite or is tempted to bite. Reward pup if her makes a good choice. If she disobeys your leave it command, use the Pressure method to gently discipline pup for biting when you told her not to. The order or all of this is very important - the yelp method can be used for the next couple of weeks while pup is learning leave it, but leave it will teach pup to stop the biting entirely. The pressure method teaches pup that you mean what you say without being overly harsh - but because you have taught pup to leave it first, pup clearly understands that you are not just roughhousing (which is what pup probably thinks most of the time right now), so it is more effective. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite When pup gets especially wound up, she probably needs a nap too. At this age puppies will sometimes get really hyper when they are overtired or haven't had any mental stimulation through something like training. When you spot that and think pup could be tired, place pup in their crate or an exercise pen with a food stuffed Kong for a bit to help her calm down and rest. Also, know that mouthiness at this age is completely normal. It's not fun but it is normal for it to take some time for a puppy to learn self-control well enough to stop. Try not to get discouraged if you don't see instant progress, any progress and moving in the right direction in this area is good, so keep at it. I do highly recommend a puppy kindergarten class or play group that has time for moderated off-leash play as well. Playing with other puppies is the number one way most puppies learn how to control their pressure of their bites - and this is a different type of interaction than what pup's gain from interacting with adult dogs. You can also create your own puppy class by having friends come over with their puppies and allow the pups to play together in a fenced area or inside with your supervision - separating the pups for a cool down when one pup seems to feel overwhelmed, and letting the more timid pup go first to see if they re-engage the other puppies to continue playing or are ready to stop each time. https://www.petful.com/behaviors/puppy-classes-when-to-start/ For the leash walking, continue working on teaching the Leave It command. I also suggest when pup bites the leash, gently pull the leash toward pup, so that the leash is pressing a bit into the area of pup's mouth where their gums come together at the back of their teeth - until pup tries to spit the leash out themselves. This shouldn't be done too harshly but makes the game of grabbing the leash a bit less fun. Working on really engaging pup with food rewards for heeling and staying with you can also help. Check out the Treat Lure method from the article linked below - you can transition to the Turns method when pup is a bit older and has more coordination, if needed then too. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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Every time we take her outside to go potty or walk she bites my ankles. I thought initially she was drawn to the movement of my pants but i have shorts on today and she continuously bit my legs and ankles. At first we read to hold still so she gets bored and moves on -- but it is quite difficult when she is biting your body!! Every time it occurs we give her a stern NO. Sometimes we push her away while saying NO or hold her at a distance with the leash. We have also tried grabbing her muzzle and saying NO -- just to get her to stop moving and calm down. Any action we take I feel like she is interpreting it as a game.. but no action means I will be bleeding. Please help!!!
Hello B, Check out the article that I have linked below. Work on teaching her the "Leave It" command from the "Leave It" method found in that article. Once she knows that command, when she obeys your command, then reward her. If she disobeys, then use the "Pressure" method also found in that article to enforce your command. It is important to teach her the "Leave It" command in addition to using the "Pressure" method though, because the leave it command will help her learn self-control and will help her understand that you are asking her to do something and not play, then when you use the "Pressure" method to gently discipline her disobedience she will understand what you are doing and will be more likely to respond to your correction in the way that you want her to. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite Also, teach her a "Heel" command using treats and have her work on looking at you and heeling while you walk. When she is focused on you and working for you, her trust and respect for you will grow, and she cannot easily bite your legs while focusing on following you and looking up at your face. Doing this helps her learn what walks are supposed to be like. Check out the article below and use the "Treat Lure" method to teach her "Heel". https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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After I have Phoenix out in the yard for several hours and I play with her when I bring her back into the house she runs around like a lunatic jumping on everything and everyone in sight. How do I handle and correct this.
Hello Marianne, First, keep a leash attached to her so that you can direct her better in the house. Second, work on teaching her commands that build impulse control like Zazz Up, Settle Down - where you practice getting her a little excited, then giving a command she knows like Sit and freezing until she calms down and obeys - then give a treat, then tell him to play again and get her excited again, then give a command and freeze until she obeys, then give a treat when she is obedient and calm. At first keep the excitement low before giving a command, and as you practice this more and she improves, make it harder by getting her more and more excited before giving the command and freezing. Overtime she should learn how to control herself and calm herself back down during times of excitement and respond to commands when in that state. Third, you can teach something structured like Place or Crate Manners and go straight to practicing that after being outside to bring her energy level back down through a command that requires a lot of focus and calmness. Place: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=omg5DVPWIWo Crate manners: https://thegooddog.net/training-videos/free-how-to-training-videos/learn-to-train-the-good-dog-way-the-crate/ Fourth, when she is outside, at the end of her time out there practice something that requires a lot of self-control and focus, like structured heeling, Place, lots of different commands in a row quickly, and things that require self-control. Making her work mentally can tire her out and produce a calming effect better than running around. What you are describing is normal for puppies her age though - definitely work on teaching her self-control and calmness, those are great skills, but be encouraged knowing it is normal for her to need to learn calmness then too - those crazy bursts are called the puppy zoomies and more puppies get them at certain times. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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He is a great natured dog and very loving but he does bite a lot.. He seems to nip then when he is told 'no' he becomes cheeky and snaps.. The distraction technique works but he continues to nip and can be very destructive too..
Hello Jennifer, I suggest teaching the Leave It and Out commands. I also suggest working on desensitizing pup to handling and touch more. Leave It method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite Out- which means leave the area: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-the-out-command/ Work on getting puppy used to touch and handling. Use puppy's daily meal kibble to do this. Gently touch an area of puppy's body while feeding a piece of food. Touch an ear and give a treat. Touch a paw and give a treat. Hold his collar and give a treat. Touch his tail gently and give a treat. Touch his belly, his other paws, his chest, shoulder, muzzle and every other area very gently and give a treat each time. Keep these times calm and fun for pup. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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Our dog has some tendency to bite and really energetic. Imyworried about him biting visitors since we have them most of the time. He got some of our food one time and when we tried to get the food, he sort of flinched.
Hello. When a dog bites a person, it is often out of fear or protectiveness, or when they aren't feeling well and want to be left alone. Training to prevent dog bites involves proper socialization, providing structure, and building your dog's confidence. Socialize Your Dog If you've just brought home a puppy, the best thing you can do is introduce it to as many new places, people, and situations as possible. Keep things positive. This early exposure is referred to as socialization; a well-socialized puppy is far less likely to be fearful in new situations, and this lack of fear decreases the likelihood of aggression. If your dog is no longer a puppy, you can still work on adult socialization. Spay or Neuter Your Dog While having your dog spayed or neutered does not guarantee it'll never bite, there is some evidence that suggests that altered dogs tend to be less aggressive. There are a number of good reasons to spay or neuter your dog, and potentially preventing a dog bite is at the top of that list. Don't Make Assumptions Given the right circumstances, any dog has the potential to bite.1 Too often people are bitten by dogs because they assume their dog won't bite. Don't assume that because a dog is a certain breed or size, or because it has never shown aggression in the past, that a dog won't bite. Work on Obedience Training An obedient dog is easier to control. By working on obedience training, you can use basic commands to keep your dog focused on you in situations in which it is uncomfortable. If you are able to control your dog's behavior, it is less likely to bite. In addition, training provides structure for your dog and boosts its confidence. Use Positive Reinforcement Positive reinforcement dog training is a method of training which rewards good behavior rather than punishing inappropriate behavior.2 Positive reinforcement can include treats, extra play time, verbal encouragement, petting, or any other activity your dog enjoys. Punishment, by contrast, can be anything a dog finds unpleasant. Some common punishments include hitting, leash corrections, and physically rolling a dog over, a process referred to as alpha rolling. A 2009 study published in the Journal of Applied Animal Behavior found that dogs who are trained using punishment are 25 percent more likely to respond with aggression than other dogs. By using positive dog training methods, you can reduce the likelihood of your dog biting. Be Aware of Body Language Dogs use body language to communicate. Pay attention to what your dog's body language is telling you. A dog who is afraid or unhappy about having its territory invaded has the potential to bite. Behaviors such as bared teeth, raised hackles, a lowered head, or ears lying flat against the head are signs that a dog is uncomfortable and may bite.3 If you notice a dog displaying this type of body language, give it some space and advise others to do so as well. Remove your dog from the situation as soon as you feel safe to do so. Don't Stop a Dog's Growls Your dog growls to let you know it is uncomfortable with a person or situation. It is a warning signal that it may bite. Very often our impulse is to teach our dogs it is inappropriate to growl. The dog may learn this lesson so well that it stops growling in any situation. This is why we so often hear stories of dogs biting without warning. By preventing them from growling, we don't allow dogs to communicate their discomfort. A better option is to pay attention to the circumstances that cause your dog to growl. Is it growling at someone approaching its food bowl, a child running past, a person cornering it? Once you know why your dog is growling, you can begin a dog training program to teach your dog to become more comfortable in those situations. In this way, you correct the problem that causes potential aggression rather than taking away your dog's ability to warn you it may bite. Once your dog is more comfortable in a given situation, it won't feel the need to growl. Problems and Proofing Behavior To proof your dog's new, more appropriate behavior you'll need to take the dog into new environments and introduce it to new people and animals.4 If it's able to maintain its behavior in a variety of settings, it has internalized the training; if not, you may need to take additional steps. If you know when your dog is most likely to growl or bite, you'll want to be sure that the dog can now handle that situation without resorting to aggression. It's not a good idea to startle or frighten your dog, but it is helpful to slowly introduce challenges to be sure your dog can handle them. For example, if your dog is aggressive around food but has learned not to growl or bite at mealtime, have another person bring the dog's food to be sure that the new behavior is followed even with a new person in the room. If you've taught commands using positive reinforcement and worked hard to earn your dog's trust, you may still find that your dog is having a tough time learning not to growl or bite. If that's the case, you'll need to take additional steps, like contacting a professional trainer in your area.
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