Sherry’s neighbor Sarah has a beautiful Siamese cat. Sherry has a beautiful German Shepherd. Unfortunately, the two animals do not get on beautifully! Sherry’s Shepherd chases Sarah’s Siamese at every opportunity. Usually, it is not a huge problem, as Sherry keeps her dog in a fenced yard, but yesterday, the gate was left open, and the Shepherd got out, saw the cat and chased it into the street. Both animals narrowly missed being hit by cars, much to Sherry and Sarah's horror, as they watched on, helpless to stop a near disaster!
Even if you keep your German Shepherd in an enclosed area and on a leash, he can get loose sometimes, or a cat can end up in your yard. Perhaps you want to introduce a cat to your home. Whatever the cat scenario, teaching your German Shepherd not to chase cats is important for the cats' safety, and your dog's. A dog hell-bent on chasing a cat may not notice other dangers, like traffic, that could result in his injury as well.
German Shepherds are large, energetic, strong, intelligent, and often dominant and prey driven dogs. This means they are very likely to chase cats in their home, yard or neighborhood. Because of their size, a German Shepherd that is aggressive to cats can pose a serious danger to a cat. Even if your German Shepherd only wants to play, a 100-pound Shepherd that lands on a 10-pound cat can severely injure or even kill a cat unintentionally, not to mention the danger that both animals could encounter during the chase from traffic or by becoming separated from owners and homes. For these reasons, you are going to want to teach your German Shepherd not to chase cats. The appropriate response when your Shepherd encounters a cat in your home or neighborhood is to either ignore the cat or wait in a non-threatening and friendly position for the cat to approach him--that is, if the cat wants to. Cats can be rather uncooperative when your dog just wants to be friends!
To teach your German Shepherd not to chase cats, you will probably need to engage a cat. If you have a cat in your home, you can work with your cat. Otherwise, you may need to find someone with a cat that is willing to help out. Choosing a cat with a little bit of attitude, that is not afraid of large dogs, will help tremendously. A cat that does not run is hard to chase. Be sure, however, to protect both animals during training. You don't want your volunteer cat to be injured by an aggressive Shepherd, or even a playful one, and you don't want your Shepherd to end up with a badly scratched face from an irritated feline. Using barriers, leashes, and a hard sided carrier when working with the animals to provide protection is advised. Using treats or toys to distract and reinforce calm, non-chasing behavior during training will be required.
My dog always wants to attack my cat and various animals he sees as prey. He is well trained when we are with him but when he is alone with another animal it is dangerous.
Hello Jennifer, You can teach a dog to avoid cats outside using electric collar training done correctly. You can raise a dog to like cats while young. You can manage a dog's behavior through training while with the dog, but the only completely safe option for a dog that has prey drive and intends to kill a cat while you are away is to keep the animals safely confined, where one cannot get to the other one. Prey drive is an inborn natural instinct and things like noise and movement from another animal can trigger it. It is not something you can get rid of. Only something you manage and white gone you cannot safely manage it without confinement. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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Mazzy was adopted by me in March.. she was cat tested and was found to be fine... personally I dont think she had ever lived with a cat.. she showed prey drive toward my cat and my room mates chi... she is fine with the chi now.. so progress.. we do not allow free interaction as she plays very rough.. she had met other dogs and is fine with them... but she will be "in their face" until they warn her with a growl or snap and then she backs off or shows submissive behavior..she is not allow around the cat unless she is on a leash.. she trys to chase and gets really hyped up when the cat is around.. I am too afraid to let her off leash.. I really do think she is playing.. but I have seen her around dogs she wants to play with .. and she is really really overbearing... she does not seem to get that they do not want to play as rough as her until they snap at her... she is really a very sweet dog.. loves people, children, basically everything. ( she is not aloof) when I take her hiking. she spends a huge amount of time trying to chase bugs and and looks for chip monks..everywhere.. so she definitely has a prey drive.. My daughters cattle dog mix has a prey drive too.. but has peacefully accepted my daughters cat.. the are now the best of friends.. do you think there is hope?
Hello Angie, I would have to evaluate Mazzy's prey drive to give you a better answer. It sounds like it might be possible to get to the point where Mazzie and your cat could be in the same room while you are present. I would probably always separate them while you are gone though. To get to the point where they could possibly be together you would need to get Mazzie used to wearing a soft silicone basket muzzle for safety reasons. The muzzle would be worn during interactions while Mazzie is on a loose leash, just in case she decides to Chase and pounce still, since she is still dangerous with her large size. The muzzle would take the threat of a deadly bite away though so that you could work on interactions more safely. Done right, the muzzle should be comfortable for her to wear and not traumatic. I would also recommend hiring a trainer who is used using "working level" electric collar, e-collar, training. Working level means tailoring the stimulation to your specific dog by testing out what the lowest level is that she will respond to. A good trainer should know how to do this. Avoid anyone who can't when it comes to e-collar's. You want to find a trainer that is used to using high quality electric collars on low levels of stimulation combined with obedience and positive reinforcement to modify behavior. Essentially someone who can teach her what not to do and also what to do by combining the e-collar corrections with communication and rewards. You would teach Mazzie to "leave it" and "out" commands and use the e-collar to enforce your commands to help Mazzie calm down and snap out of her cat fixation. Doing this, you can build a calmer response in her and then reward her calm, correct behavior to teach her to act that way instead of overly intense around the cat. All of this should be done very calmly, not with too much excitement because she will feed off of your own emotions. Unfortunately, there is no guarantee that she can overcome her cat fixation. If her response to the cat is to chase and play with it, then this training should help a lot with that behavior. If she wants to kill and eat the cat, then she may never be safe around it. A good trainer should be able to help you evaluate her though and decide if she might be able to overcome it during the first couple of sessions. To get her used to wearing the soft silicone basket muzzle, show her the muzzle during her meal time and feed her a piece of kibble everytime she snifs it, let's you touch it to her, or let's you put it on her. Start with simply showing her the muzzle and as she gets comfortable with it, gradually touch and hold it against her face more and more over the next two or three weeks, until you can finally put it on her, feed her treats through the muzzle's holes, and have her wear it around for up to an hour and she will stay relaxed and calm about it being on her face. Go slow and keep the training really fun with treats like kibble, or meat if she needs the extra encouragement. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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I have a five year old German Shepherd he is great he listens to me very well. He has always had a issue with the cats we have 3 cats today he grabbed the cat and was shaking it like a toy it was horrific. Idk how I should punish him for this? How I teach him this isn’t ok.
Hello Krystal, It sounds like Angel is prey driven towards the cats. Unfortunately that is not as simple as punishing him. He needs to learn high distraction self-control around the cats, he also needs to receive a lot of positive reinforcement for choosing to leave the cats alone to motivate him to do something besides chase the cats. Finally, he should never be left alone with the cats because when you are not around if his issue really is prey driven, he may still chase the cats and harm them without your presence to enforce them. Look for a trainer who is very experienced with remote electric collars and can work on high level obedience around the cat's with the cats moving. A place command, a leave-it command, and an "Out" command, which means leave the area, should all be taught using positive reinforcement, then when Angel is very good at those commands, the e-collar can be used to practice those commands in the presence of the cats and enforce those commands even when you are around the corner, where you can see him but he cannot see you. To practice this without harming the cats, you will need to get Angel used to wearing a soft silicone basket muzzle, and to start with yourself close by and him on a leash, until he can do it with less and less help, but still a muzzle just in case. When he gets to the point where he can leave the cats alone part of the time when they move about, then reward him heavily for choosing to ignore them whenever you see him do it. This part is just as important as the high distraction e-collar training. Finally, practice the training when he can do it consistently without you present, when he cannot see you but you are watching him from somewhere hidden but close by where you can enforce the training. When you cannot supervise the animals together, then they must be confined apart. You cannot remove prey drive. You can only manage it. With all of this, you should see a lot of progress with the right trainer helping you and hard work, but honestly there is no guarantee that he will stop completely, and never have slip-ups since the cats are so close all the time. Most avoidance training that is taught around other animals like chickens and livestock give the dog the ability to avoid the animal when they choose to. This helps the dog self-regulate and make the right choice. Having a dog and cats that he wants to attack so close all the time keeps the dog under constant pressure and the dog may still fail at times. When you use e-collar training you want to use only a high quality e-collar that has at least forty-levels. A cheaply made collar can be dangerous. Garmin, Dogtra, SportDog, and E-collar Technologies are reputable brands. Do not simply strap a collar on a dog and start using it. You can make the problem worse when you do not know how to use it, fit it, and train with it. Hire a professional to help you and spend time learning about e-collar training and positive reinforcement. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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I have a German Shepherd who is nearly 4 years old. He is a big mama's boy and has had me to himself for most of his life. Recently we took on 2 kittens. Axle seems torn between jealousy and playful curiosity. He usually listens well to me when i use the "come" "sit" and "down-stay" commands. However, now he seems more focused on the kittens than he is on my commands. He will whine when we hold the kittens and don't allow him to come close. When we do allow supervised close encounters he playfully nudges with his nose but his play can turn to rough for the kittens. Only when the kittens run do i notice a prey drive kick in. I want Axle to understand the Kittens are not toys or prey. What is the best training method for this? I would like to avoid any training techniques that involve a stimulant collar as it has been my own experience a stimulant collar can cause a dog to show agression even when used properly. Thanks
Hello Rozilyn, First, set up fast paced, focused training session with Axle, with the kittens in the background. Keep him on a leash or have the kittens somewhere where he cannot get to them, but they are able to move around at least a little bit. If you have someone who can handle the kittens then you be the one to handle Axle and have the other person keep up with the kittens. Work on his obedience and reward focus on you heavily. Whenever he starts fixating on the kittens during training, tell him "Ah Ah", then get him moving and focused on you again by giving him something to do that takes all of his focus, like a faced paced "Heel" with lots of turns and speed changes. You want to accomplish two things by doing this. The first is to refresh his obedience around this new distraction, so that he will continue listening to you around the cats. The second is for the cats to become more boring and for him to learn to tune out their presence and movement, and to become more motivated to focus on you instead. Whenever he starts to get too fixated on the kittens in general, give him an "Out" command. Tell him "Out", point to where you want him to go, then get between him and the kittens and walk toward him, until he leaves the area. Once he is out of the area, continue to block his way, until he gives up on trying to get around you and go back. Once he has left the area and given up, sat down, or laid down, then you can return to the kittens. If he follows you back, which he likely will do at first, then quickly get in front of him again and firmly walk toward him until he is out of the area again. Picture yourself as a soccer goalie or a brick wall when you do this. Repeat walking toward him to make him leave the area as many times as you have to for him to learn not to come back in. When he has calmed back down and you want to bring him over again, then tell him "Okay", and let him come back in when he is calm. If he gets to rowdy, then make him leave again. His pass back in is his calmness. You can also teach Axle a "Place" command, and really work on enforcing that command. Screw an eye hook into the baseboard securely, attach a leash to the eye hook and Axle, and work on your "Place" command with the kittens moving around, once Axle can do the "Place" command for long periods of time with you dancing and running around, without the kittens there. When he stays on the place, then toss him treats from where you are to reward his tolerance and calmness. Get in front of him and interrupt his behavior if he starts barking, fixating, or trying to get off the place to get to the kittens. Learning to stay on the place with the kittens around will teach him how to control his own impulses. It will also give you safer opportunities to work on rewarding his correct response toward the kittens. Watch his body language when you practice this. At first, simply reward any progress and good effort on his part. As he improves, you want to gradually reward his body language and state of mind, to increase his calm behavior and tolerance around the kittens. Time will tell if he will learn to accept the kittens as family instead of prey. Some dogs that are not immediately bent on killing the other animal, can learn with guidance and time that the cats are part of the family and should not be harmed. Some dogs can never make that switch if not introduced while young. It sounds like Axle mostly just wants to play, so I strongly suggest trying to work toward progress, but do be careful and continue to always supervise at this stage. Do not trust him alone with the cats anytime soon, even if he is making progress. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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I just picked up this dog today and she won’t stop trying to chase my cats. She’s good with them when there calm but has soon as they run she tries to chase after them
Hello Josephina, First make sure she does not have a history of aggression that you are aware of - highly aroused dogs can redirect aggression to whoever is close-by so just be aware and get professional help if you see signs of trouble. Second, work on teaching her the Leave It and Out commands: Out command - which means leave the area: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-the-out-command/ Leave it method for teaching Leave It command: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite Next, check out the videos linked below for teaching a dog to leave a cat alone. You can incorporate your Out and Leave It commands when she needs to be reminded to leave them alone also. Video 1: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ojIQmMuOwns Video 2: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_MLJV5PBh7Y Finally, when she is doing well on leash, teach Place and work on her staying on place for an hour while the cat is able to move around. You can back tie her leash to something secure nearby as an added safety measure just in case she gets off place before you can stop her, but make sure the leash stays slack while she stays on the Place so that she is staying on Place because of your training and not just the pressure of the leash - which forces her to learn impulse control and tolerance. Reward focus on you instead of the cat, interrupt any fixating too - don't wait until she is full blown chasing, look for when she fixates on the cat and interrupt that too. Place command: https://thegooddog.net/training-videos/free-how-to-training-videos/learn-to-train-the-good-dog-way-place-command-the-good-dog-training-tips/ Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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We just adopted a 3year old (estimated) German shepherd from the humane society 2 days ago, and they told us she ignored cats. She also was returned by a previous family after an adoption, citing allergies. We told them that we have 3 cats! Well have found out that she is very aggressive towards them!! Well the cat was free in our house she took after that cat full throttle! Luckily the cat found a hiding spot somewhere. I could not refocus the dogs attention while it was going on. Also we have had to take her out on a leash to go to bathroom since our yard is not fenced in. We have a large yard we forest and field surrounding it. And she latches onto anything that moves with her eyes and it seems like she would chase it until she killed it. But I’m not sure about that. And towards my parents (the only other people that have met her yet) she made an aggressive move to her outreached hand and gave them defensive barking. Can you please be honest and tell me If we should return her because of the cat problem or is she too aggressive towards people or if this can be corrected or not? Also, how long should we be giving her a chance? I would appreciate any advice, we are really struggling right now. She is very very sweet to us Just not the cats and we question her people skills!
Hello Lisa, If she has a heavy prey drive around the cats, then that likely cannot be changed. Prey drive is genetic and instinctual. It can be managed but not changed, and in close quarters with a number of cats management would be very difficult and dangerous. If she was not prey driven but simply playing or being pushy toward the cat, the potential outcome for that is much better. I would suggest hiring a trainer who is very familiar with prey drive to evaluate her response around the cats to give you a better idea. A very fixated stare, stiff/ridged body, crouching behavior, and obsessiveness tend to be more predatory. A happy, relaxed body, looser/goofy look toward the cats, and things like a play bow or barking during a chase are often more play. A pushy dominant attitude often falls somewhere in-between, with less silliness but not as much intensity and fixation. The dog often comes across as very bossy and controlling toward the cat. You may want to look up videos of dogs in predatory mode vs. play chase mode. If she is prey driven toward the cats, I would warn against it. As far as human aggression, having not witnessed the incident that is a more difficult call. Something is likely going on there - she might be nervous, defensive, possessive of you, perhaps they moved in an odd way or were carrying something scary. It could be a number of things. Her behavior in that situation could be isolated but it likely means something is going on - the severity of what that is would need more time and an in person evaluation to determine though. It could be something minor that can be addressed fairly easily or a larger issue. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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We just moved into a new house with two cats. They have been in the house for about a month and now want to bring our 5 year old working line German Shepherd into the picture. He has never lived with cats and has a high prey drive. (Gets very excited and wants to chase, rabbits, squirrels etc) He is a very good dog and has never showed aggression toward any other dog or human. I adopted him when he was 3 and I’ve never had any issues nor was I ever warned of any aggression issues. The last couple of days we brought him to the new house while the cats were locked up in a bedroom so he could sniff around. He’s done this a few times. The last time one of the cats got out and it ran away when he saw it so he went nuts; chasing it around the house before I had to pin him down to the floor. He wouldn’t listen to me and just wanted to catch the cat. He didn’t bark but was whining and wagging his tail when I finally contained him and the cat was petrified a few feet away. I’ve seen different advice from different forums, but not sure what method to use with him. He’s never crated and has not been a problem as we’ve learned what he gets into and adjusted. He’s also been living with another dog for the last 6 months away from cats and socializes frequently with other dogs. We are hoping to make this work with them as we don’t want to give up the dog or cats. Any advice is much appreciated.
Hello Brian, With the level of prey drive you described I suggest hiring a professional trainer who specializes in behavior issues, uses both positive reinforcement and fair corrections, and is very familiar with using high quality e-collars. Check out the videos below on using e-collars to teach avoidance and impulse control to dogs who are prey driven around cats. Day 1. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lgNbWCK9lFc Day 2. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kpf5Bn-MNko&t=14s Day 3. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xj3nMvvHhwQ Day 4. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VxrGQ-AZylY Mild cat issue - teaching impulse control: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IWF2Ohik8iM Moderate cat issue - teaching impulse control using corrections and rewards: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9dPIC3Jtn0E Severe cat issue: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_MLJV5PBh7Y More e-collar work with cats with the same dog: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v8lkbX0dhT0 Work on impulse control in general with pup, by teaching things that increase impulse control and calmness - such as a long, Place command around lots of distractions. Practicing the command until you get to the point where pup will stay on Place while you are working with the kitten in the same room. You can also back tie pup while they are on place - connecting a long leash attached to pup to something near the Place just in case pup were to try to get off Place before you could intervene. This keeps kitty safe while practicing and reinforces to pup that they can't get off the Place. The leash should be long enough that pup doesn't feel the leash while they are obediently staying on the Place because it has some slack in the leash. Place: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=omg5DVPWIWo Below are some other commands in general you can practice to help pup develop better impulse skill/self-control - impulse control takes practice for a dog to gain the ability to control herself. Crate manners: https://thegooddog.net/training-videos/free-how-to-training-videos/learn-to-train-the-good-dog-way-the-crate/ Thresholds: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-w28C2g68M Heel article - The turns method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Heel Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTiKVc4ZZWo Down-Stay: https://www.thelabradorsite.com/train-your-labrador-to-lie-down-and-stay/ Leave It: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite Out - which means leave the room: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-the-out-command/ Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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Our boy has been great with cats! We got him as a pup so he has always been raised with cats and him and the cats have always been the best of friends. They play together and sleep together and we have other dogs in the house. We lost the two cats he grew up with and adopted a kitten and they became fast friends. So if you have cats don't be intimidated about getting a German Shepard because A) they are the best companion you can have and B) they are smart so if they see you loving on another family member they will love them just the same and be loyal to them as you are.