It’s a classic story. The mailman dares to venture up your front path and suddenly, your happy, calm Golden Retriever turns into a barking machine. She is desperate to alert her family to the dangerous intruder who is approaching her house. This behavior is normal, especially since Golden Retrievers are generally quiet, calm dogs. However, when a habit such as excessive barking goes unchecked, it can turn into an annoyance for both you and your visitors.
Training your Golden Retriever to stop barking is a tricky process. Barking is the way dogs communicate, so you can’t expect her to stop altogether. Training a dog to stop barking is like training a person to stop talking. But you can train her to bark only in acceptable moments and help minimize the disruption. The amount of time it takes to train your Golden Retriever depends on her personality as well as your consistency. It can take as little as a couple of weeks, if you are patient and consistent in your training.
With a behavior like barking, you don’t want to scold your dog. Instead, you want to reward her when she is quiet or stops barking quickly. Keep some training treats on hand and use them to reinforce the behaviors you want to encourage. There are a few methods of training your Golden Retriever to stop barking, which you can adapt to suit your dog's personality and your needs.
My 7 month old retriever Rosie constantly barks at me trying to either get me yo do something or wanting things , I don’t know how to stop her , she’s very stubborn and if she doesn’t get her own way she tries to bite n nibble on me
Hello Tanya, I would start by working on pup's general relationship with you. Check out the article I have linked below and the three methods found there. I would choose two or three of those methods to practice to help gain pup's respect for you gently and calmly. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-doberman-to-listen-to-you I would also teach Quiet, Place, Leave It, Out, and Drop It. Out - which means leave the area: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-the-out-command/ Leave It method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite Quiet method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bark Place command: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O75dyWITP1s Drop It – Exchange method: https://wagwalking.com/training/drop-it I would give pup more to do, by using pup's meal kibble ration to stuff puzzle toys, dog food stuffed kongs, kong wobbles, and similar toys pup can entertain herself with. Finally, once pup understands the new rules, when pup disobeys a command or rule she has already been taught in order to get your attention, you may need to use an interrupter as a consequence. A pet convincer is one example of an interrupter. To correct with a pet convincer, you would calmly tell pup "Ah Ah" and spray a brief puff of air at pup's side (avoid spraying pup in the face and only use unscented air, not citronella). If you find pup is still responding by acting out when you use the pet convincer, you may need a way to correct that's less direct, which would be something like a remote training collar so you have a way to enforce commands without having to give additional attention. The correction should be on pup's working level, which is the lowest level pup indicates they can feel when standing and calm when you test ahead of time, and corrected only for something pup knows and chooses to disobey, giving pup better options, like a toy to choose instead. How to and fit video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1cl3V8vYobM Only correct for things pup has already been taught and knows well, which means you need to intentionally practice commands like Leave It, Quiet, and Out a lot, and correct only for direct disobedience after giving pup a command like Leave It when they are mouthing, or Quiet when barking, and pup continuing to mouth or bark after. I would also spend more intentional time training with pup every day in general to help stimulate pup mentally too, teaching the above commands can be what you work on first during that time. Just 15-30 minutes of training practice a day can make a huge difference in your relationship with pup, how calm pup is, how much self-control pup has, the level of communication you have with pup, and pup's overall training and manners. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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My dog Charlie barks at every thing that makes a noise or just for fun. My parents can't sleep at night and have considered getting a shock collar for him. We can't get him to stop. Please help
Hello Storm, Tools like bark collars can be useful, but they are gentlest and most effective when you combine them with some other training to help pup understand to be quiet and have the self-control skills to obey, then the bark collar is a tool for enforcing that training, with pup understanding and being able to be quiet if they choose. First, for the barking, you need a way to communicate with him so I suggest teaching the Quiet command from the Quiet method in the article I have linked below - don't expect this alone to work but it will be part of the puzzle for what I will suggest next. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bark Next, once pup understands what Quiet means you will choose an interrupter - which will be a form of correction - neither too harsh nor ineffective. An e-collar, bark collar (stimulation based, not citronella), or Pet Convincer are two of the most effective types of interrupter for most dogs. A pet convincer is a small canister of pressurized, unscented air that you can spray a quick puff of at the dog's side to surprise them enough to help them calm back down. (Don't use citronella because it's actually very harsh due to how sensitive a dog's nose is, and because the smell lingers so pup is being corrected even after they are quiet, which is unfair and confusing to the dog. You want any correction to stop the second the dog stops the behavior. Also, avoid spraying in the face!). An e-collar, aka remote training collar, uses stimulation to interrupt the dog. Only use a high quality e-collar for this, such as E-collar technologies mini educator, Dogtra, SportDog, or Gamin. A good collar should have at least 40 levels, the more levels the more accurately you can train - finding the lowest level your dog will respond to, called a "Working level" so the training is less adverse. In situations where you know pup will bark or is already barking (catch them before they bark if you can), command "Quiet". This type of collar will correct pup more gently than a standard bark collar with less levels in most cases, but you have to be present to use it. If they obey your Quiet command, reward with a treat and very calm praise. If they bark anyway or continue to bark, say "Ah Ah" firmly but calmly and give a brief correction. Repeat the correction each time they bark until you get a brief pause in the barking. When they pause, praise and reward then. The combination of communication, correction, and rewarding - with the "Ah Ah" and praise to mark their good and bad behavior with the right timing, is very important. Most bark training only gives part of that equation. Fitting an e-collar - it should be put on while he is calm, just standing around - Ideally have him wear the collar around for a while before starting any training so he won't associate the training with the collar but just with his barking: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DLxB6gYsliI Finding the level to use for him (sometimes you will have to go 1 or 2 levels higher during training while the dog is aroused but once he improves you can usually decrease back to his normal level again) - this training level is called a dog's "Working level": https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1cl3V8vYobM Once pup is calmer in general after the initial training, practice exposing him a lot to the things that trigger the barking normally (make a list - even if it's long). Whenever he DOESN'T bark around something that he normally would have, calmly praise and reward him to continue the desensitization process. An automatic bark collar can also be used during times when he likes to bark while you aren't there after the initial training is done - so he understands that the correction is for his barking at that point in the training. Some collars like Garman, have both settings. I have found mixed results with the effectiveness of the bark collar part of this collar - it seems to depend on the length of the dog's fur, how reliable that collar is. While you are not home, confine him in a crate or room that doesn't look out the windows right now - barking at things out the window lets him practice the bad behavior over and over again and barking is a self-rewarding behavior because of the arousing chemicals released in a dog's brain - so once a dog starts he is naturally encouraged to continue it and stays in that state of mind if you aren't there to interrupt. If pup hasn't been well socialized I would also spend time exposing him to new things, rewarding him with treats or kibble you carry with you, whenever pup responds calmly, curiously, or generally well around something new. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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my dog is a nice cute little golden retriever, but when it comes to situations that he might bark in, he goes insane, he barks at people down the road, cats, dogs, neighbors, a toy[ while he is playing the toy is out of his reach so he keeps barking at it] and strangers if they came into our apartment.
Hello Salma, Check out the Desensitize and Quiet methods from the article I have linked below. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bark I also recommend checking out this video series on barking, which focuses on desensitizing dogs to specific things they tend to bark at. https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLAA4pob0Wl0W2agO7frSjia1hG85IyA6a Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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