Huskies are beautiful and unique dogs, but they can be stubborn and are not as eager to please as some other dogs. You've got to earn his respect and create a firm foundation for training. If you've just been introduced to the breed, you may be scratching your head trying to figure out how to train a Husky to not pee in the house. There are a few tips and tricks that will make this easier for you.
Ideally, you will start house training your Husky before he ever has a chance to pee in the house but sometimes that can't be avoided, especially if you have an older dog that is just learning about living inside the house. No matter what, never yell or scare your dog if he does make a mistake and pees in the house. You want to make going outside to pee a fun experience.
With consistency and hard work, you'll be an expert at teaching your Husky not to pee inside. Look through the three methods below and choose the best one for you and your Husky.
How can I stop my dog from going to the bathroom in the house and to go when he's on the leash also what leash is good for his breed
Hello, Check out the article that I have linked below. I suggest following the "Crate Training" method from that article linked below. You can also combine the "Tethering" method with the "Crate Training method when you are at home. The article linked below will talk about how to encourage a dog to go potty outside, to reward them for going potty outside, to prevent accidents inside, and what type of schedule to keep. Because Cimarron is an older puppy, when you are home you can take him potty every 2-3 hours if crate training, and every 2 hours if tethering him to yourself. When you are gone, if he is in the crate (which he needs to be) he should be able to hold his bladder for 5-6 hours, and even longer once fully potty trained (The crate naturally encourages dogs to hold their bladders); taking him outside more frequently when you are home is needed for him to learn faster though. After he goes potty outside, you can give him 1 hour or freedom outside of the crate before placing him back in the crate until it is time to take him potty again. The goal is to limit his freedom whenever his bladder is at all full, so that he will not have accidents - the more accidents that you prevent, the more successes he will have outside and the quicker he will learn. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-german-shepherd-puppy-to-poop-outside Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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We are the 4th owner for our husky in 7 yrs. The owner just before us allowed him to run off and he would be gone for 2 to 3 days at a time. Diesel was an outside dog then. He has been an inside dog for 5 yrs. I have not been able to get him to quit going to the bathroom inside. I walk him twice a day and nearly at the same time every day. While we are gone, his food and water gets put up where he cannot reach. All doors are shut and he still goes inside. We have tried putting him in a crate and a kennel while we are gone. He has broken out of both more than once. We have tried different things to get the smell out of the carpet and have bought 2 throw rugs, to which he goes on. What can I do to stop him from going inside and what can I do to get the smell out of the carpet and throw rug? I have tried several different things to get the smell out of the carpet and throw rug.
Hello Linda, For the smell you need a cleaner that contains enzymes. Enzymes break down the pee and poop at a molecular level. Other cleaners do not remove it enough for the dog not to smell it still. You also probably need a device that can get all the way down through the carpet or rug, like a professional steam cleaner you can use the enzyme cleaner with. I suggest speaking to a cleaning expert about that. They can be rented at some grocery or hardware stores as well. For the peeing he needs to be crated and taught not to escape. The first step is to purchase a more durable crate. Check out the crate review article below: https://dogsrecommend.com/kennels/heavy-duty-dog-crates/ When you put him in the crate put 1-2 large hollow Kong chew toys stuffed with dog food and a little peanut butter or liver paste to help with boredom. Work on the above. If you are not seeing progress, then the next step is to interrupt his frantic-ness using an electric collar that has a vibration setting also (he may not respond to the vibration so you need both stimulation and vibration - if he does respond to just vibration then you can use that). When you choose a collar, only get one that has at least thirty-levels. Cheap, poorly made collars can be dangerous and collar without enough levels can be too harsh or not effective enough. E-collar Technologies, Garmin, SportDog, and Dogtra all make decent collars. You can also try using a remote controlled unscented air spray collar (AVOID citronella - only use unscented air or you might make your problem worse). Honestly, many dogs will not respond well enough to the air spray collars though. I highly suggest hiring a trainer who is experienced with separation anxiety and using e-collars to help you (although he is likely escaping due to boredom the protocol for the crate is the same here). You want to find the lowest level that he can feel on the collar. You want to set a good foundation for him by doing the other training that I mentioned above to at the same time to help him learn independence. You also want to reward him when he is calm. To use the electric collar you would: 1. Get him used to wearing the collar around while it is turned off. 2. Find the lowest level that he responds to - called a "working level". 3. Set up your camera to watch him again. 4. Leave the house, drive down the block so he thinks you are gone, then walk back and hide next to the house - so the collar and remote will be in range. 5. Watch him on the camera and listen for howling, scratching or him getting really worked up whining. 6. Stimulate the collar when he howls, scratches, or starts to get worked up whining (a brief whine is okay but not anxious-continuous whining). 7. When he gets quiet for two minutes, go back inside, ignore him for five minutes (he should be in the crate when you first practice this). When he is calm, then open the crate door, but don't let him come out yet - if he tries to rush out, then close the door quickly again and repeat the opening and closing it exercise until he stays in there while the door is open. 8. When he will stay in the crate while the door is open, then ignore him for another five minutes while the door is open. 9. Tell him "Okay" to let him know he can leave the crate at the end of the five minutes, but act really boring and nonchalant with him when he comes out. 10. Practice the training sessions, correcting him from outside with the collar while watching on the camera, coming back in when he is calm, ignoring him for a total of ten minutes, then acting boring when you let him out. This protocol sounds very harsh I know. It is important to practice him being self-controlled through things like "Place", "Stay", and being in the crate. When you correct him with the collar, you are correcting him at a more reasonable stimulation level that is high enough for him to feel but not so high that it's any harsher than it needs to be. He needs an opportunity to choose a calm response instead of his current frantic one. When you correct him, you are interrupting his frantic state of mind and expression. When you remove that option from him, then he has to find another way to react. By coming back inside, you are essentially rewarding him when he is being calm - showing him that being calm is how he gets you back, not by getting worked up. He has an opportunity to learn in that situation. Being in the crate simply makes it easier for him to learn because his only other option is to chew on a chew toy and rest. He cannot pace, destroy things, pee on rugs, or try another type of behavior when the scratching, whining, and howling are not options anymore. After he has learned calmness in the crate and that has become a new habit, then it will be easier for him to be calm outside of the crate when you are gone too. When you put him into the crate during the day (not at night), be sure to leave a dog food and liver paste or cheese or peanut butter (NO Xylitol sweetener -it's toxic to dogs!) stuffed- safe- hollow-chew-toy for him in the crate, so that when he calms down he will have that to chew on - he probably won't chew it until he is corrected and learns to calm down though. When he learns to be calm and is ready to do something other than get worked up, you will want him to have it though, so that he can learn to enjoy himself in the crate or in your home when you are gone. I suggest that you do all of this under the guidance of a qualified trainer though. You have to be careful to use e-collars correctly. They can be very effective tools when used correctly, but they are powerful and can be severely misused if you don't understand how to use them. Once he is no longer escaping from the crate, then he needs to only be given freedom outside the crate when he has gone potty outside in the last two hours. After two hours put him back into the crate until the next potty trip. If he does not go potty when you take him, put him back in the crate and try again in an hour or two. When you take him potty, tell him to "Go Potty" and reward him with three small treats, one treat at a time. Keep a container of treats by the door you take him through, out of his reach to make grabbing treats on your way out convenient. You also need to go with him when you take him to pee to make sure that he actually goes. The crate utilizes a dog's natural desire to keep a confined space clean and can help teach him to hold his pee, instead of going whenever the urge hits him like when he is outside (and now inside too). He needs to learn to hold it until outside. You are also correct that the smell or his urine and poop need to be removed to help him tell the difference between inside and outside. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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My wife and I work nights so we have to crate Midna around 9:30pm. My wife gets home around 3 or sometimes around 5 in the morning. She'll try to let Midna out to go pee but Midna will squat and pee in the kennel. We just had her fixed 2 days ago and it's only getting to be more frequent peeing in the crate. We dont know what else to do.
Hello Nathan, This sounds like excited peeing, made worse by the fact that she has not peed in a while. Try to keep the crate exiting as boring as possible. Do not speak to her, touch her, or look directly at her. Calmly and quietly open the door to her crate, walk toward the door to go outside so that she will follow you, and ignore her until she is calm. If you have a fence, when she is a bit calmer, you can open the door to go outside and tell her "Okay" so that she knows she is allowed to go through the door to go outside to pee. Once she has peed, then you can greet her and talk to her again. If you do not have a fence, you will have to attach a leash. Calmly reach down toward her with the leash, touching her as little as possible (try to only touch the D ring on the collar when you can). Avoid bending over her and looking her in the face directly if you can, and clip her leash on. The goal is to be extremely boring. I also suggest practicing the crate manners protocol from the video linked below. Practice this during the day when her bladder is not as full at first. Once she has learned to exit crates calmly in general you can do this in the early morning too, to help her calm down before exiting the crate. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mn5HTiryZN8 Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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Hello we just adopted a 2 year old husky less than a week ago. She is peeing in the floor every night, in the same spot. We take her out right before we go to bed. She was not crate trained prior to her arrival so we are hesitant to go that route. How do you discipline them when you find the evidence hours later?
Hello Alexa, You cannot discipline hours later. Most dogs live in the moment and won't associate discipline after the fact. Discipline is only effective when the timing is right and the dog is caught in the act. It's just like if you were to reward a dog for sitting hours after they sat. They would be happy about the reward but they wouldn't learn anything because they would only associate the reward with whatever they were doing when it was given, like standing around, and not with the time that they sat hours earlier. For potty training to be successful you have to prevent accidents through management, create opportunities for the dog to go potty outside and be praised and rewarded when they go, and clean up any old accidents with a cleaner that contains enzymes so that your home doesn't continue to smell like a potty to them. There are many routes to manage a dog to prevent accidents. Crate training is by far the easiest and quickest. Crate training will probably be easier in the long run than trying to tackle this another way. You can also attach a dog to yourself with a leash to prevent them from wandering off to have an accident, while also taking them potty often - that method by itself will only work if you are home during the day though, but not at night while you sleep. You can also constantly supervise a dog, but without a crate at night or a space that is small enough that the dog holds their bladder, accidents at night can still happen (although they are less likely because the dog is asleep most of the night). For smaller dogs you can teach them to use an indoor toilet, like a grass pad, pee pad, or litter box using an exercise pen. Finally, you can create a safe area outside for the dog to spend time while you are gone or asleep (weather permitting and in consideration of what type of other animals could come around and if you have a fence), and keep the dog with you at all times while inside when you are home and able to supervise. If you don't prevent accidents a dog will not become potty trained. When it comes to potty training, it is about encouraging a dog's natural desire to keep a space clean (which the crate utilizes best) until the dog starts to view their home as their own space and develops a long term habit of keeping that area clean, and wants to do that on their own even when you are not helping them do it. If the dog soils an area enough she will no longer want to keep that area clean. If you do decide to crate train or tether her to yourself with a leash, check out the article linked below for how to do both of those things in the "Crate Training" method or "Tethering" method. Since she is older, she should be able to hold her bladder in the crate for 4-6 hours at time during the day, and up to 8-9 at night while asleep. When you are home I suggest taking her outside every 3-4 hours during the day though to help training go faster. Once she goes potty outside, she can be out of the crate for 1-2 hours during the day while her bladder is empty, before being put back in the crate until it is time to take her outside again - doing it this way prevents her from being free when her bladder is full and motive her to hold her bladder while inside. At night only let her out of the crate to take her potty if she asks to go outside after at least 6 hours since she last went potty. Letting her out at other times can create bad habits of her waking to play. With the tethering method you will need to take her potty every 2 hours during the day, and four hours at night because she will not have the confined space of the crate to encourage her to hold it. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-german-shepherd-puppy-to-poop-outside Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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