Do you want to train your Jack Russel Terrier to come when called? Professional trainers call this “recall” and teaching it is not difficult. However, it does take a little know-how, practice, and patience.
In this guide, we will show you how to train your Jack Russel Terrier the basics of a great recall, how to turn your training sessions into a fun game, and how to “proof” your dog’s recall so that it will work under even the most distracting circumstances.
A special note about Jack Russel Terriers:
It is important to keep in mind that Jack Russel Terriers have been bred to hunt vermin and they have an extremely strong urge to run after small game such as rabbits or squirrels when scented or spotted visually. It may be unrealistic to ever expect that he is going to choose any reward in your arsenal over the reward of the chase. This means that if you do not feel that it is safe for him to roam about on an adventure, then letting him off the leash, no matter how strong his recall, is taking a risk.
The basics of training your Jack Russel Terrier to have great recall are not difficult, but they do require some consistency and practice. Here are some tips to make sure your recall training is backed up with good practices:
You do not need fancy equipment to train your Jack Russel Terrier to come when called. Make sure you bring plenty of patience and excitement to your training sessions to make sure he stays engaged. In addition, keep your sessions short and fun so that he will look forward to learning with you and associate recall with a fun game.
Get a long line, either a leash or a sturdy rope that is 25’ or longer, before you start to work outdoors in a non-fenced area. This will allow you to safely be away from your dog without her being able to bolt after some prey. It will also let you enforce the recall by reeling her in if she gets distracted while outdoors.
Make sure you are using rewards that are really motivating for your JRT. Although treats can be great, make sure to use other rewards like tossing a ball, pats, and praise, or a quick game of tug. If your JRT does not know what she will get when she comes to you, it can add to the excitement and fun, making her recall stronger in the long run.
Bruno bites me a lot I know he thinks he’s playing with me but he gets aggressive sometimes and really digs his teeth into my hands, I’m the only one in the house he does that with , when my dad tells him to stop he does but doesn’t listen to me at all I’ve tried distracting him with toys and it isn’t working , I’ve tried putting him into crate when he does it and it isn’t working either if you could give me some advise it would be really appreciated thanks
Hello! Here is information on nipping/biting. Nipping: Puppies may nip for a number of reasons. Nipping can be a means of energy release, getting attention, interacting and exploring their environment or it could be a habit that helps with teething. Whatever the cause, nipping can still be painful for the receiver, and it’s an action that pet parents want to curb. Some ways to stop biting before it becomes a real problem include: Using teething toys. Distracting with and redirecting your dog’s biting to safe and durable chew toys is one way to keep them from focusing their mouthy energies to an approved location and teach them what biting habits are acceptable. Making sure your dog is getting the proper amount of exercise. Exercise is huge. Different dogs have different exercise needs based on their breed and size, so check with your veterinarian to make sure that yours is getting the exercise they need. Dogs—and especially puppies—use their playtime to get out extra energy. With too much pent-up energy, your pup may resort to play biting. Having them expel their energy in positive ways - including both physical and mental exercise - will help mitigate extra nips. Being consistent. Training your dog takes patience, practice and consistency. With the right training techniques and commitment, your dog will learn what is preferred behavior. While sometimes it may be easier to let a little nipping activity go, be sure to remain consistent in your cues and redirection. That way, boundaries are clear to your dog. Using positive reinforcement. To establish preferred behaviors, use positive reinforcement when your dog exhibits the correct behavior. For instance, praise and treat your puppy when they listen to your cue to stop unwanted biting as well as when they choose an appropriate teething toy on their own. Saying “Ouch!” The next time your puppy becomes too exuberant and nips you, say “OUCH!” in a very shocked tone and immediately stop playing with them. Your puppy should learn - just as they did with their littermates - that their form of play has become unwanted. When they stop, ensure that you follow up with positive reinforcement by offering praise, treat and/or resuming play. Letting every interaction with your puppy be a learning opportunity. While there are moments of dedicated training time, every interaction with your dog can be used as a potential teaching moment.
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Hi, I’m really at my wits end with my dog. He is good as gold off the lead until he sees or hears another dog he runs off and it can go either way.. fighting or nothing. I am calling him and calling him but he just doesn’t listen and just runs off! Nothing gets his attention, toys/treats etc. I just don’t know what to do anymore apart from keeping him on the lead all the time but feel like he doesn’t get to run about when he’s on the lead. I usually always get him on the lead in time before he sees the other dog but sometimes they just come out of nowhere and I don’t have time to catch him. Any advice would be appreciated, thank you
Hello Lauren, First, start working on a reliable Come. Check out the Reel In method from the article linked below. Reel In method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-whippet-to-recall More Come - pay attention to the PreMack Principle and long leash training sections especially once pup has learned what Come initially means. These need to be practiced around all types of distractions like dogs and kids at the park to ensure pup is reliable before attempting true off leash. https://www.petful.com/behaviors/train-dog-to-come-when-called/ More advanced come: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rtJxSXu4rfs&t=1208s I also recommend working on the dog reactivity itself. See if there is a G.R.O.W.L. class in your area. Those classes are for dog reactive/aggressive dogs who all wear basket muzzles during the class and are intensively socialized and desensitized to each other in a structured environment under the guidance of the class trainer. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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Just one more
When I give Rusty lots of attention because he has done something good our other dogs races over and pushes Rusty out of the way then Rusty walks away and he doesn’t get the full attention he needs for it to pay off.
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Sorry it’s me again I’ve got another one m. Rusty runs away and most of the time we don’t know where he is and we just call him around where we think he is. But he won’t come to us. Can you help us fix this?
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Well my dad will let him put and not watch him so therefore he runs away, then when we go to retrieve him we can see him and we are calling him but he won’t come. How can we make him not run away?
Hello! I am going to give you the steps to teach "recall". STAGE ONE – 'Catching' or Charging Up the 'Come' Cue Start in a distraction free environment so that your dog can focus only on you. Whenever your puppy or dog is coming to you on his own, wait until he is a couple of feet from you and then say his name and the word 'come.' When he gets to you, make a big fuss. With this exercise, your dog will learn that coming to you is a really good thing. After a while, you can lengthen the distance between you and start using the word when he is coming to you from a greater distance. Coming to you should always be rewarded, whatever the circumstance and no matter how long it took your dog to respond. Motivate your dog to come by being exciting, running away from him, waving a toy, or having delicious food for him when he gets to you. This will show him that coming back to you the best thing he can do. STAGE TWO – Solidifying the Cue Through Play Make sure you play the Back and Forth game with another person that your dog is comfortable with. Start the game in a quiet environment so it is easy for your dog to focus on you. Hold your dog back while the other person calls him excitedly. Try not to use his name or the cue word but talk excitedly to ‘gee’ him up. Do not release him until the person calls his name followed by the cue word “come.” When the cue word is given, release your dog and let him go running to the person calling. As soon as he reaches them they should praise and reward him with a game of tug or a food reward. When your dog has had his reward, have the other person hold him back as you call him and release as you say his name followed by the cue word. When he comes to you reward him with another game of tug or food reward. Repeat this game back and forth but only do a few repetitions so your dog does not get bored or too tired. Keeping it fresh means the game is always fun to play. STAGE THREE – Adding Vocal Cue With Hand Signal Inside Now your dog knows what the word “come” means you can use the cue word to call him to you while adding a hand signal to the word. Hand signals are always good to build with vocal cues so that even if your dog cannot hear you he will understand what the hand signal means. This is good if your dog is a distance away from you. Start in a quiet environment. Walk away from your dog and call his name followed by the cue word and a hand signal. Praise and reward him when he comes to you. Start increasing the distance you call him from and praise for his compliance. If he does not respond, go back to the previous distance and repeat. Only practice this cue for a few minutes so your dog does not get bored. The secret to success is to always keep it fun, exciting and fresh. When your dog recognizes the hand signal, try calling his name and using the hand signal by itself without the vocal cue. You will then be able to use a combination of vocal cue only, hand signal only and the two together. Now your dog knows what the cue word means you can start to call him from different rooms or from areas where he cannot see you. This will encourage him to respond even when you are out of sight. STAGE FOUR – Adding Vocal Cue With Hand Signal Outside Now your dog is consistently coming to you in a distraction free environment you can proof your recall cue by taking it outside. Practice the recall in your yard and then gradually build up to the point where you can use it in the park or similar environment. The ultimate test is to use the recall when your dog is engaged in a different activity. Wait for a lull in that activity and then call your dog to you. Praise his decision to comply.
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