How to Train a Miniature Schnauzer

Hello Tracy, What is she barking at? How you train will partially depend on why and when pup is barking. Some dogs will bark due to fear, in which case counter conditioning pup to whatever she is afraid of can help. Desensitize method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bark Kikopup on youtube is a good counter conditioning training resource. Some dogs will bark because they enjoy barking itself, in which case teaching pup the Quiet command and using an interrupter to make the barking itself less fun would be usually be done. Quiet method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bark Some dogs bark for attention, in which case using an interrupter for the unwanted behavior, teaching Quiet command, and then rewarding quietness instead would usually be done. Some puppies bark while adjusting to time alone in another room, crate, or exercise pen. If the barking is for that reason, check out the Surprise method from the article I have linked below and practice that during the day. Surprise method: https://wagwalking.com/training/like-a-crate If the barking is at night while alone, I would also practice the Surprise method during the day, then ignore or interrupt the barking if it's been less than four hours since pup last went potty so they don't need to go outside. At night don't speak to pup or otherwise give attention though. Give pup a chance to learn to settle and fall asleep on their own. This often means a few hours of crying for the first week, and requires a lot of consistency and possibly some earplugs from you. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Oct. 20, 2021

Hello Eva, Pay attention to pup's body language and the environment. Some pups don't want to walk because they are afraid of a neighborhood dog in a fence barking, construction workers, funny objects (like yard decorations), and things we would never think twice about. If pup isn't familiar with something (no matter how normal it may seem to us) it can feel scary to pup and be a reason why they don't want to leave the safety of the yard. If pup seems nervous or something might be bothering them in the environment, work on helping pup overcome that fear first by using play and treats to distract pup and then reward pup for any confidence, calmness, or tolerance they shows around the fearful thing. Practice this further away from the scary thing first and very gradually work up to pup being able to pass that thing as her confidence grows with your help. Simply spending time sitting outside with pup daily in the environment pup is uncertain of - without expecting walking yet - can help the area become less scary or distracting. Next, spend time getting pup used to leash pressure in general if pup's not familiar with coming forward toward you when there is a leash tug. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-your-puppy-to-accept-leash Next, if pup still won't walk, take some small treats or pup's dog food pieces in a small ziplock bag in your pocket or a favorite toy. Every time pup takes a couple of steps, give a treat or toss the toy a step forward or let pup give the toy a tug. Keep your energy excited and confident. When pup stops, tell pup "Let's Go" in a calm and business-like tone of voice (it's not a question, it's a confident, calm command), then tug and release the leash several times in a row until pup takes a couple more steps - at which point give another treat or play. The leash tugs should stop as soon as pup starts moving. Keep your walking goals short at first. If pup won't leave your yard - your first goal is just to leave the yard. When pup reaches that goal - go home as an additional reward for pup following you - even if a lot of leash tugs were involved. When pup will go to the end of the yard easily then walk to the next house. Gradually increase your walk distance overtime. If you make your goal something huge like the whole neighborhood at first you are less likely to succeed - work up to distance overtime. Also, do not continuously pull pup on the leash. Doing so can harm pup's neck, but also dog's have a natural tendency to pull away from something - so if you pull pup in one direction, she will just pull back in the other direction, budging even less. This is why you do the quick tug and releases so that not following is uncomfortable with the tugs but not a continuous pull. You want pup to choose to walk to get away from the annoying tugs and to receive treats. I suspect pup is nervous or distracted about the environment or not sure how to respond to leash pressure - so don't skip over desensitizing pup to the environment and leash if pup seems at all nervous about those things - freezing and looking like a deer in headlights is one sign of nervousness. Finally, make sure pup isn't in pain or sick, causing her not to want to exercise in any form due to feeling bad. Pay special attention to how hot your sidewalks are (they could be burning pup's paw pads), if there is anything that could be making walking uncomfortable for pup or if you have reason to suspect pup is ill or injured. If you do suspect an injury or illness definitely see your vet. (I am not a vet) Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Aug. 10, 2021