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It's pretty common for Akitas to nip and bite, especially when they are puppies and still teething. While Bowser might not think much more of biting than as a normal part of play, his sharp teeth can, in fact, be quite painful. If you don't break this habit while he is a puppy, by the time he gets to be an adult, his bites can cause serious injury. Bear in mind, while teething puppies will chew on just about anything they can get their teeth on. The chewing helps to relieve his pain in much the same way it helps a teething baby.
Your first job is to discover why Bowser is biting. In young pups, it is usually because they are teething or playing. In the wild, they cut their teeth biting and chewing on anything they can find and will learn to control play biting with the help of their litter mates. But in your home, this is just not acceptable behavior. In an older dog, biting is part of the hunt and survival, but again this is not necessary in a domesticated situation. Bear in mind, you are trying to train your dog to do something that is completely against his nature. Be patient, stay calm and keep working with him until he finally stops this unpleasant behavior.
While you will need a few supplies to use during training, the most important of them you cannot buy. These are time and patience. You need to make sure you set aside time every day for at least one training session until Bowser finally learns not to bite. It will help to have a few supplies handy as well:
- Treats – For rewards
- Chew toys – Chew toys, bones, or a combination of both
- Quiet room – This training is best done in a nice quiet room or corner of your yard
Keep working with Bowser, don't give up if he seems like he isn't getting the idea. This is the time to try a little harder--he will figure out, it just might take a little extra time.
The Good Dog Method
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Treats go in your palm
Palm one of Bowser's favorite smelly treats and call him over. Let him get a good whiff of the treat before you close it in your fist.
Give it your best shot
Bowser is going to do just about anything he can to get at the treat, including nipping at your hand. But, do not let him get it.
Never mind
After a while, Bowser is going to get tired of trying and will simply give up and walk away.
Good boy!
When he does, tell him what a good boy he is and then let him have the treat.
Repeat the lesson
The rest is all about repeating the training until he figures out he only gets a reward when he doesn't bite. This may take some time, but stick with it Bowser will eventually figure it out and stop biting.
The Hey, You Bit Me Method
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Choose a training time
Choose a time every day that you can set aside specifically for training Bowser.
Time to play
Start your training time playing with Bowser. You need to get him good and excited.
And now the bite
It shouldn't be long before Bowser gets so excited he starts nipping or biting you. Keep in mind tiny nips may not hurt, but they turn into bites that can be extremely painful.
Time for your cue
The next time Bowser bites, say "Ouch!" in a firm voice. Do not sound angry, just firm enough to establish your place as the Alpha in your pack.
Redirect his attention
Each time Bowser goes to bite you during play, redirect his attention using a chew toy or bone. This will help Bowser learn his boundaries with biting and he will eventually limit his biting and chewing to his toys and bones.
The Understanding Method
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Why?
Start by observing Bowser to help you understand why he is biting you in the first place. Puppies bite as they teethe, adult dogs may bite if they become overexcited or if they have been backed into a corner they will bite out of fear or anger.
Just say no!
There are a couple of ways you can let Bowser know you are not happy with being bitten. You can talk to him in his own language and "Yelp!" or you can speak to him in English and simply tell him "No!" in a firm voice.
I don't want to play
Once you do this, turn away from Bowser to let him know you don't want to play anymore. Wait for him to calm down and then give him a treat.
I can't calm down
If Bowser seems to be having a problem calming down, put a baby gate across the doorway and go into another room where he can't see you. Wait there until he calms down.
Back at it
Return to working with Bower, repeating the training again and again until he finally learns that biting is not acceptable.
Written by PB Getz
Veterinary reviewed by:
Published: 04/12/2018, edited: 01/08/2021
Training Questions and Answers
she was the most loving and friendliest dog with no problems , however ever since i’ve left her and went on vacation for 2 months and came back she’s been very aggressive even towards me her owner and doesn’t listen to most commands. she’s tried biting and growls at certain times and suddenly doesn’t like being touched at all. i was wondering if you could do anything to help ?
Sept. 20, 2021
skyla's Owner
Caitlin Crittenden - Dog Trainer
1128 Dog owners recommended
Hello Bahar, It sounds like she needs training in several areas, including calmly building respect and trust for you again, working on obedience commands, and adding a lot of structure into her day. I would see if you can find out more about her care while away. Was there any type of injury or sickness (pain or illness can have aggression and touch sensitivity as a symptom), was there a dog fight, a scare by a person/people, neglect, a lack of socialization, a stressful environment where something like being bullied by other dogs led to stress, an environment where there was no structure and she was allowed to do whatever she wanted, or left outside without her needs being met all the time, ect... Sometimes things can happen accidently, or without people realizing - like other family dogs bullying one dog subtly, even with those who take good care of a dog. The goal in knowing isn't to blame anyone but to get an idea of what needs addressing most in training - like trust and socialization being built if that was lacking, providing a lot of structure and boundaries and building respect if pup was allowed to do whatever they wanted, any stressors being counter conditioned, or illnesses or injuries addressed with your vet. Age could also be a factor even in an ideal situation. Often pups will begin to mature sexually and mentally as they approach a year, and when that maturity happens that's when more behavioral, temperament problems can show up most. I would start by desensitizing pup to wearing a basket muzzle using lure reward training if you can do so gradually and safely. You will want pup to regularly wear that and a drag leash most likely, to be able to train and interact more safely right now. Personally, I recommend hiring a professional trainer who specializes in behavior issues to work with you in person for this. There are specific types of aggression that likely need addressing, but pup's overall daily routine and attitude also need addressing through adding routines and boundaries, practicing obedience commands, consistent calm follow through, and getting pup working with you by incorporating training into her day. She needs to see that her biting no longer gets her her way, via the basket muzzle for safety, and to be desensitized to touch using food rewards while wearing a basket muzzle and on a back tie leash for safety. You can see with trainers like Thomas Davis, James Penrith, Jeff Gellman, and others who specialize in aggression, how they use safety measures like back tie leashes, catch poles, muzzles, crates, and tools that put distance between the person and dog during early aggression related training, and how they treat the aggression holistically, addressing the specific triggers, but also counter conditioning, working on obedience and structure to change overall attitudes and build respect and trust. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
Sept. 21, 2021
Biting and drawing blood Growling when trying to keep her away from the cat Started off well peeing and pooping in garden really well but has started doing it in the house for some reason
June 19, 2021
Kilani's Owner
Caitlin Crittenden - Dog Trainer
1128 Dog owners recommended
Hello Lisa, Check out the article I have linked below. I recommend both the Leave It and Bite Inhibition method simultaneously. It will take time to get a solid Leave It, so Bite Inhibition serves as an intermediate until pup is good at Leave It. Bite Inhibition method and Leave It method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite I also recommend teaching Out: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-the-out-command/ I would keep a drag leash on pup when you are there to supervise pup, so you can calmly enforce Leave It and Out without pup being able to protest with their mouth as easily. For the potty training, I recommend the Crate training method. Pup also would benefit from some more structure also, so this method will also mean that pup isn't being left unsupervised as often. You can transition to the Tethering method if you prefer and are home, once pup is back on track with potty training using the Crate Training method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-german-shepherd-puppy-to-poop-outside Check out the videos linked below for teaching calmness around cats. Mild cat issue - teaching impulse control: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IWF2Ohik8iM Moderate cat issue - teaching impulse control using corrections and rewards: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9dPIC3Jtn0E You may find these methods helpful as pup grows, if they are testing boundaries around you. Calmness and consistency tend to work best, getting pup working with you through obedience exercises and consistent boundaries, where you calmly follow through, instead of something overly harsh or physical, or without structure. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-doberman-to-listen-to-you Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
June 21, 2021