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You just adopted a wonderful dog from your local shelter. He looked so sad sitting there in the cage, and was so excited friendly and affectionate when you opened the cage door. You bring him home in a carrier and all seems well, until you put a leash on your dog to take him outside for a walk. All of a sudden, your outgoing, friendly do, turns into a cowering, shaking, balking ball of nerves. He has obviously never been walked on a leash before, he is scared, confused and stressed. You want to be able to take your new friend on walks for exercise and bonding--what are you going to do? Fortunately, even an old dog can learn new tricks, or more specifically to walk on a leash. You will just need to spend some time training your new dog to accept and use a leash.
Most dogs learn to walk on a leash when they are young, it is a basic skill your dog requires so that you can keep him safe and contained when outdoors. A dog that pulls or resists the leash is not only awkward and unpleasant to walk for their owner, but can injure themselves if too much strain is placed on the neck and windpipe, or if they get loose and run into traffic or other hazards. A dog that pulls on a leash can also injure their owner if they pull them over or drag them into hazards. This risk becomes more pronounced with an adult dog that has more strength than a puppy and may outmuscle the owner.
Some dogs may not learn this basic skill when young because they are raised in a rural environment, where they are not introduced to the leash, or because a stray or rescue dog may not have been provided the attention and training required to master the art of walking on a leash with their previous owner. A dog that has achieved the skill of walking on a leash will not be afraid of or avoid a collar and leash, they will walk at their owner's side without pulling the leash taut or resisting their owner. An older dog may be afraid or anxious when put on a leash, depending on their prior experiences, and if this is the case, getting the older dog to feel comfortable with the leash and not resist or pull away in fright may be required before leash training can commence.
When training your older dog, or any dog, to walk on a leash, it is important to have the correct equipment. You should use a collar that fits your dog properly, it should not be too tight or loose. An alternative to a collar, that is often preferable when training a dog to walk on a leash, is a body harness or a head harness. A dog is apt to put more pressure on their neck and throat while working thru the learning curve of being on a leash, and may be subject to neck and windpipe injuries, so be aware and adjust equipment as needed. You should also teach your dog on a shorter leash, to allow the dog to walk at your side, and not become entangled or put too much distance between you and him, which may encourage him to pull. Also, the leash should be the appropriate weight for the dog. For example, a large or giant breed dog will need a thicker leash than a toy or miniature breed. Retractable leashes are not recommended for training. Bring along treats to reward your dog for responding to your cues and walking well on the leash. The following methods can be useful in teaching an older dog to walk on a leash.
The Acclimatize Method
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Most Recommended
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Introduce leash at meal time
While your dog is eating, place the collar on him and let the leash hang while he is eating so that he associates the collar and leash with a positive experience. Repeat several times.
Drag leash in the house
After your dog finishes eating, follow him with the leash around the house. Gradually increase the length of time you follow your dog around with the leash so he gets used to walking beside you.
Drag leash in the yard
Next let your dog go outside with the leash and drag it behind him around an enclosed area, occasionally pick up the leash and follow your dog.
Hold leash
Offer your dog a treat with one hand while holding the leash in the other hand. Coax your dog forward with the treat and leash.
Pressure from the side
If the dog pulls or avoids moving forward, turn so that the leash pulls him to the side and the dog has to follow or lose his balance, praise him for following the leash and offer a treat. Repeat this until the dog begins following light pressure on the leash. Never punish your dog for not following the leash, as this will create a negative association.
The Encouraging Forward Method
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Effective
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Acclimatize to leash
If you have an older dog that resists the leash by sitting or lying down or pulling away from you while on the leash, practice letting him get used to the leash by leaving it on him while outside in an enclosed area.
Teach off leash command
Teach your dog off leash to respond to a command such as 'come', or a hand signal. When your dog comes, give him a treat.
Give command while on lead
With the leash on but not holding it, give the dog the signal for 'come' and provide a treat. Reward for coming forward dragging the leash.
Combine command and hold leash
Pick up the end of the leash, give the signal for 'come' and a light tug on the leash. Reward the dog when he comes and give a treat.
Continue moving forward
Gradually start encouraging the dog forward while holding the leash with 'come' and provide a treat. A few steps at first, then several steps, then farther and farther until the dog is walking comfortably moving forward on the leash.
The Correct Pulling Method
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Least Recommended
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Stand still
Stand with your dog in a regular or choke collar, with a leash. Do not move forward. If the dog moves forward, give a sharp quick pull up on the collar with the leash and then release.
Reward relax
When the dog has relaxed and is not pulling, start walking forward.
Stop when pulling
When the dog tightens up the leash and pulls forward, give the leash a sharp pull upwards, stop moving forward, then release pressure. Do not continuously pull or put excessive pressure on the collar or choke collar.
Continue when relaxed
When the dog is relaxed, start moving forward again.
Repeat
Repeat as required, stopping and pulling your dog up quickly and then releasing, waiting for the dog to let the leash slack and then proceeding. Eventually, your dog will learn that only when the leash is slack does he get to proceed.
Written by Laurie Haggart
Veterinary reviewed by:
Published: 11/05/2017, edited: 01/08/2021
More articles by Laurie Haggart
Training Questions and Answers
Very anxious on leash. Use gentle leader (large), but seems too tight at vocal cords. Sense of being trapped with noise, people, cars, etc. Coughs/ honks a lot. When leash free very little honking/coughing. Should we try a harness?
April 28, 2022
Chevy's Owner
Caitlin Crittenden - Dog Trainer
1128 Dog owners recommended
Hello Sherri, It does sound like his neck might be too muscular for that tool. Some dogs are also very bothered by the gentle leader's way of turning the head if the dog is very visually dependent. I don't recommend a back clip harness because it can encourage pulling and be dangerous with a large dog who isn't off-leash trained, but I would look for a good front clip harness or consider a properly fitted prong collar. I would also avoid a choke chain because of the damage they can do to the trachea. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yS1z2cPwJMg Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
May 3, 2022
He is aggressive towards strangers and is very territorial. Though when strangers get close to him, he doesn't bite he just jumps at them.
March 11, 2022
Flint's Owner
Caitlin Crittenden - Dog Trainer
1128 Dog owners recommended
Hello Magavin, I highly recommend working with a trainer who specializes in behavior issues like aggression in person for this issue. Look for a trainer who works with a team of trainers, so that there are multiple people to practice the training around who are "strangers" to pup and know how to interact safely with aggressive dogs. This process typically involves things like gently building pup's overall respect, trust, and listening with you to that pup doesn't think they own you and so that their behavior is easier to manage and so that they feel more secure and can defer to your leadership when in situations that make them uncomfortable. It also tends to involve gradually desensitizing pup to people, one at a time, with safety measures like a back tie leash or basket muzzle in place (introduced gradually ahead of time using treats so it's not just associated with the training and stressful), starting with people being further away at first, and working on pup's obedience with you around the people in the background to help pup remain calm and not get overly aroused and fixated on the other person. This can sometimes also involve interrupting pup's aroused state, but that should only be done under the guidance of the trainer and with proper safety measures in place, because with any aggression there is always the risk of the dog redirecting their aggression to whoever is closest when stressed. Some examples of aggression being addressed. How aggression is addressed depends a lot on the temperament of the dog, the types of aggression, and pup's threshold for certain triggers and pressure, as well as other factors like fear being present also, pup lacking respect for you, or a bite history. Because of the various factors involved, the need for certain resources and setting up specific training scenarios to work on this safely and effectively, the need for safety measures, and how much pup's language determines how you train, I still recommend working in person with a trainer qualified in this type of training and behavior modification. Avoid trainers who depend on things like alpha rolls, and look for ones who build respect through consistent follow through, structured obedience, and giving daily boundaries. When corrections are needed, they should be done in combination with pup being taught commands, rewarded for the appropriate behavior, and implemented safely for all involved. https://www.youtube.com/user/AmericasCanineED/playlists Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
March 11, 2022
When I try to walk her on leash she pushes against me, try’s to block me by moving in front of me and laying down, she also try’s to ‘hide’ between my legs. When I’m not trying to walk her, we have other dogs and she bosses them around, often by what looks like trying to chase them away from me and trying to make them submit to her. Every time someone sits down she paws at them, nudges them, or hits them with her paw, trying to get us to pet her. She has gotten worse with the other dogs as she ages. I don’t know where this behavior came from, she has been with us since she was little. Please help.
Feb. 24, 2022
Tipsy's Owner
Caitlin Crittenden - Dog Trainer
1128 Dog owners recommended
Hello Malya, It sounds like pup is trying to control you and the other dogs. With pup's breed combination, pup may have both a high guarding/herding type instinct of the Great Pyrenees combined with the intelligence, protectiveness and intensity of the Belgian Malinios. A dog with those instincts is likely naturally going to attempt to control your actions and environment. That doesn't mean that you should allow it, but it does mean that pup likely needs a lot more structure, respect and trust for you, obedience skills, and mental stimulation than the average dog. You didn't necessarily do anything wrong raising pup, but pup might need more than average to keep that controlling tendency in check. Intelligent dogs often use not only their bodies but also their brains to try to control what they view as their own, so you might find pup trying to be one step ahead of you to get around the rules, get their way, and keep their environment the way they think it should be. Check out this article - Especially pay attention to the Working and Obedience methods: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-doberman-to-listen-to-you If pup ever uses aggression or even mouthing, like nipping or holding, to try to get their way with you or the other dogs, I would desensitize pup to wearing a basket muzzle because pup is likely to try doing so when told to do things they have different ideas about at first. Muzzle introduction video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KJTucFnmAbw&list=PLXtcKXk-QWojGYcl1NCg5UA5geEnmpx4a&index=6&t=0s Out - which means leave the area: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-the-out-command/ Leave It method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite Quiet method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bark Place command: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O75dyWITP1s Down-Stay: https://www.thelabradorsite.com/train-your-labrador-to-lie-down-and-stay/ Heel- Turns method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Come - Reel in method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-whippet-to-recall Off- section on The Off command: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-train-dog-stay-off-couch/ Drop It – Exchange method: https://wagwalking.com/training/drop-it Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
Feb. 25, 2022