The reason being that your dog pulls so hard on the leash that you don't want to be shown up in front of the friend that lives in that house.
Not walking well on a leash is more than just an embarrassment, it can have real and serious consequences. For example, there's the family dog that pulls a child into the road or the large dog that pulls you over on an icy sidewalk.
The other side of the argument for teaching a dog to walk on leash is that it makes for pleasant walks. Strolling along, dog by your side, without constantly having your shoulder wrenched from the socket is a far more pleasant experience.
Teaching a dog to walk on a leash means having slack in the lead at all times, with the dog walking close to your heel. Simple really... now all you have to do is explain what's required to the dog.
In addition, you need basic equipment such as:
Hi!
My dog walks nicely next to my heel, she understood the concept very well, but when we start our walk, in the first 5-10 minutes she just stoppes, and doesn’t want to walk. When she does that, i always stand, and tense the leash a bit (not pulling hard), and wait. After 10-20 seconds she comes to me, we walk a few steps, I reward her with treats, than she stoppes again. We “play this game” for 5-10 minutes, and everything is perfect after that. Sometimes she tries it while we’re walking, but only for a short period of time, as I sad, we’re walking nicely. I know that she’s young, basicly she’s with us for 6 days, but the problem is that i don’t experience any progress, it’s not better today, that yesterday.
Sorry for my english, it’s not my main lenguage.
Thank’s for your help!
Hello, First, you English is actually very good. Pay attention to pup's body language and the environment. Some pups don't want to walk because they are afraid of a neighborhood dog in a fence barking, construction workers, funny objects (like yard decorations), and things we would never think twice about. If pup isn't familiar with something (no matter how normal it may seem to us) it can feel scary to pup and be a reason why they don't want to leave the safety of the yard. If pup seems nervous or something might be bothering them in the environment, work on helping pup overcome that fear first by using play and treats to distract pup and then reward pup for any confidence, calmness, or tolerance they shows around the fearful thing. Practice this further away from the scary thing first and very gradually work up to pup being able to pass that thing as her confidence grows with your help. Simply spending time sitting outside with pup daily in the environment pup is uncertain of - without expecting walking yet - can help the area become less scary or distracting. Next, spend time getting pup used to leash pressure in general if pup's not familiar with coming forward toward you when there is a leash tug. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-your-puppy-to-accept-leash Next, if pup still won't walk, take some small treats or pup's dog food pieces in a small ziplock bag in your pocket or a favorite toy. Every time pup takes a couple of steps, give a treat or toss the toy a step forward or let pup give the toy a tug. Keep your energy excited and confident. When pup stops, tell pup "Let's Go" in a calm and business-like tone of voice (it's not a question, it's a confident, calm command), then tug and release the leash several times in a row until pup takes a couple more steps - at which point give another treat or play. The leash tugs should stop as soon as pup starts moving. Keep your walking goals short at first. If pup won't leave your yard - your first goal is just to leave the yard. When pup reaches that goal - go home as an additional reward for pup following you - even if a lot of leash tugs were involved. When pup will go to the end of the yard easily then walk to the next house. Gradually increase your walk distance overtime. If you make your goal something huge like the whole neighborhood at first you are less likely to succeed - work up to distance overtime. Also, do not continuously pull pup on the leash. Doing so can harm pup's neck, but also dog's have a natural tendency to pull away from something - so if you pull pup in one direction, she will just pull back in the other direction, budging even less. This is why you do the quick tug and releases so that not following is uncomfortable with the tugs but not a continuous pull. You want pup to choose to walk to get away from the annoying tugs and to receive treats. I suspect pup is nervous or distracted about the environment or not sure how to respond to leash pressure - so don't skip over desensitizing pup to the environment and leash if pup seems at all nervous about those things - freezing and looking like a deer in headlights is one sign of nervousness. Finally, make sure pup isn't in pain or sick, causing her not to want to exercise in any form due to feeling bad. If you have reason to suspect pup is ill or injured, definitely see your vet. (I am not a vet) Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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Luna does not like going for walks on the leash. She wears a harness, but will often stop, sit and whine to go back home. Usually I stop, turn away from her and wait for her to come to me and walk a few paces before I reward her but we've been doing this dance for 2 weeks. She'll eventually walk and then get excited to go home and once inside has lots of puppy energy to play off
Hello Rachel, I would start by examining the harness and fit, to make sure it isn't digging into her arm pits, chafing somewhere or squeezing in weird places. I recommend front clip padded harnesses for most dogs who wear harnesses to avoid discomfort. If pup will wear the harness at home happily, the issue may not be harness discomfort, or at least not only that. Pay attention to pup's body language and the environment. Some pups don't want to walk because they are afraid of a neighborhood dog in a fence barking, construction workers, funny objects (like yard decorations), and things we would never think twice about. If pup isn't familiar with something (no matter how normal it may seem to us) it can feel scary to pup and be a reason why they don't want to leave the safety of the yard. If pup seems nervous or something might be bothering them in the environment, work on helping pup overcome that fear first by using play and treats to distract pup and then reward pup for any confidence, calmness, or tolerance they shows around the fearful thing. Practice this further away from the scary thing first and very gradually work up to pup being able to pass that thing as her confidence grows with your help. Simply spending time sitting outside with pup daily in the environment pup is uncertain of - without expecting walking yet - can help the area become less scary or distracting. Next, spend time getting pup used to leash pressure in general if pup's not familiar with coming forward toward you when there is a leash tug. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-your-puppy-to-accept-leash Keep doing what you have been doing with treats, taking some small treats or pup's dog food pieces in a small ziplock bag in your pocket or a favorite toy. Every time pup takes a couple of steps, give a treat or toss the toy a step forward or let pup give the toy a tug. Keep your energy excited and confident. When pup stops, tell pup "Let's Go" in a calm and business-like tone of voice (it's not a question, it's a confident, calm command), then tug and release the leash several times in a row until pup takes a couple more steps - at which point give another treat or play. The leash tugs should stop as soon as pup starts moving. Keep your walking goals short at first. If pup won't leave your yard - your first goal is just to leave the yard. When pup reaches that goal - go home as an additional reward for pup following you - even if a lot of leash tugs were involved. When pup will go to the end of the yard easily then walk to the next house. Gradually increase your walk distance overtime. If you make your goal something huge like the whole neighborhood at first you are less likely to succeed - work up to distance overtime, since pup probably doesn't have a lot of endurance without breaks yet. Also, do not continuously pull pup on the leash. Doing so can harm pup's neck, but also dog's have a natural tendency to pull away from something - so if you pull pup in one direction, she will just pull back in the other direction, budging even less. This is why you do the quick tug and releases so that not following is uncomfortable with the tugs but not a continuous pull. You want pup to choose to walk to get away from the annoying tugs and to receive treats. I suspect pup is nervous or distracted about the environment or not sure how to respond to leash pressure or harness - so don't skip over desensitizing pup to the environment and leash if pup seems at all nervous about those things - freezing and looking like a deer in headlights is one sign of nervousness. Finally, make sure pup isn't in pain or sick, causing her not to want to exercise in any form due to feeling bad, even road specific issues like ice or salt or temperatures outside causing discomfort, depending where you live. If you have reason to suspect pup is ill or injured, definitely see your vet. (I am not a vet) Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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Very stubborn on the leash does not want to walk sits down and will not move sometimes even when offered a treat.
Hello, Dublin is acting like a lot of other puppies do - so don't worry. Be patient and keep training. I can give you a couple of resources to read: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-boxer-puppy-to-walk-on-a-leash. Try the 180 Method. But remember as well that sometimes puppies are afraid of the leash so be sure to buy a lightweight one at first, because a heavy one can discourage a puppy. Let Dublin walk around the house a few times a day dragging the leash behind to get used to the sensation. Make sure his collar is lightweight and fits well, too. Take a look here for helping Dublin accept the leash: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-your-puppy-to-accept-leash. Read it through as there are many tips to help you. Good luck!
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How do I get her walk with me on a lease? She pull away when trying to go for a Walk.
Hello! A useful solution may be a head halter called a Gentle Leader. It helps with pulling/attention. These can be found at ay pet store and online.
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We rescued Teddy about 3 weeks ago from Georgia. We live in Hoboken and she is very easily distracted, will sit down or lay down on the ground, and pull backwards if we try to get her to keep going. We've tried treats, purposely stopping her when she is walking and telling her "let's go," but she still sits. We're not sure what breed she is but definitely some type of pitbull mix. It seems like she can tell she can get herself out of the harness by pulling backwards and I'm afraid she will get out and run into the street. She does pretty well inside and is only 25 pounds right now, she just doesn't seem to want to walk outside unless we let her stop and sit around to people/dog watch.
Hello Jordynn, First, I suggest choosing a harness you feel confident that pup can't get out of. That needs to not have to be a concern. Check out RuffWear's webmaster harness. Notice the third strap that goes around the belly. You can likely find a less expensive brand, but that design is what you are looking for. Some harnesses like this also have a similar design but an additional d-ring that the leash can be clipped to in the front of the harness to discourage pulling later. That third strap is important for preventing escaping though. Second, know that the stopping is likely related to socialization. Pup is probably stopping to observe because they are not used to all the things they are seeing. Spend a lot of time intentionally taking pup places and rewarding and praising pup for exploring new things and reacting bravely or calmly to new things. Take this as a sign pup needs a lot of socialization and is trying to figure out what to think about new things. As they get more exposure and you build up their confidence through rewards, they should be able to ignore things better. With pup in a secure harness, spending extra time taking trips slow to leave time for socialization and encountering new things in a fun way, when pup stops and you need them to continue, give quick tug and releases with the leash over and over - not continuously pulling but making stopping a little uncomfortable with a quick little tug then release, then tug and release, ect...- continuous pulling will cause pup to pull in the opposite direction, and you don't want the tugs to be really harsh, just annoying. Act really excited and goofy when pup stops and you want them to continue, doing a little dance or running a couple feet away, calling pup in a silly, excited voice. Know that when pup is stopping they are probably nervous, so you want to get your energy up and help them refocus on you, making the situation fun while also insisting pup keep walking with you. You should be enthusiastic enough that you feel silly - all good puppy trainers look pretty silly at times because that's what works best. Also, recognize that when pup keeps stopping over and over, it's probably time to head home for now. Pups can get easily over stimulated and tired, and often stopping over and over can mean pup has had enough for now. View outings as training and socialization rather than trying to get somewhere far right now. When it's obvious it's time to head home, get pup to follow you a couple more steps again and you initiate turning the walk toward home, so that pup is rewarded with heading home for following and not stopping. Know that this behavior is normal at this age, especially for pup's with certain personality types. Check out the free PDF e-book AFTER You Get Your Puppy as well. www.lifedogtraining.com/freedownloads Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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