You swear he never tastes his food and just inhales it. You put the bowl down and in an inelegant frenzy he stuffs his face into the bowl and...voila...the food is gone.
You've tried telling him to slow down, but being a dog he just won't listen. Hand feeding works up to a point, but there simply aren't enough hours in the day to spend hand-feeding a hungry GSD. What to do?
Deep-chested breeds are especially vulnerable to complications, as their anatomy means the stomach hangs more freely and is more likely to flip over on itself.
For many dogs, wolfing food down is a way of life. Instinctively, they see food and eat it as fast as possible so as to stop competitors getting it instead. Often the best way to make a dog eat slower is to address any psychological pressure to eat quickly (such as competition from other dogs) and use puzzle feeders so the dog has to work to access food.
The thing is he eats to fast and chokes on his food and if tried a few tings but nothing works its like he is scared he wont get more food and also he bites alot when he plays and its not a playing bit he gets angry quik what do i do about both those things
Hello Marico, First, make sure he is being fed the correct amount. Many puppies eat a lot more than you would think because their metabolisms are so much faster than an adult dog. Check with your dog food manufacturer and vet to find out how much pup needs at this age - usually it is based on expected adult size, but can vary as each pup is a bit different. Second, check out the PDF e-book, AFTER You Get Your Puppy, and try using pup's kibble as stuffing for chew toys like kongs and as treats during socialization and daily training. You can also look into devices like Kong wobble that make your pup work to get the food out so slow down the feeding process - plus those things keep pup stimulated mentally and can help prevent bad habits like barking and destructive chewing. As far as the biting, work on desensitizing pup to handling. Use pup's daily kibble for this (another way to slow down eating also). 1-2 times a day, feed pup their kibble this way. Gently touch an area of pup's body and give a treat. Touch and ear - give a treat. Tail - give a treat. Paw - give a treat. Collar - give a treat. Practice this with every area of pup's body to train pup to be tolerant of touch. Be careful not to handle pup too roughly, discipline with hands too harshly, or remove objects without trading it for a dog toy or practicing the "Drop it" command proactively. Doing those things with a pup can cause more biting. If you can find a free puppy play date class attend one of those with him so that he can learn how to control the pressure of his bite by playing with other puppies. Petco and some other pet stores with training offer free puppy play classes if you call and ask for the schedule. If you have any friends with puppies under 6 months of age, set up play dates with those puppies too. Moderate the puppies' play and whenever one pup seems overwhelmed or they are all getting too excited, interrupt their play, let everyone calm down, then let the most timid pup go first to see if they still want to play - if they do, then you can let the other puppies go too when they are waiting for permission. Also, check out the article linked below. Starting today, use the "Yelp" method. At the same time however, begin teaching "Leave It" from the "Leave It" method. As soon as pup is good as the Leave It game, start telling pup to "Leave It" when he attempts to bite or is tempted to bite. Reward pup if he makes a good choice. If he disobeys your leave it command, use the Pressure method to gently discipline pup for biting when you told him not to. The order or all of this is very important - the yelp method can be used for the next couple of weeks while pup is learning leave it, but leave it will teach pup to stop the biting entirely. The pressure method teaches pup that you mean what you say without being overly harsh - but because you have taught pup to leave it first, pup clearly understands that you are not just roughhousing (which is what pup probably thinks most of the time right now), so it is more effective. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite When pup gets especially wound up, he probably needs a nap too. At this age puppies will sometimes get really hyper when they are overtired or haven't had any mental stimulation through something like training. When you spot that and think pup could be tired, place pup in their crate or an exercise pen with a food stuffed Kong for a bit to help him calm down and rest. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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I feed my dog wet food and with a slow feeder. However, she still eats extremely fast and it seems like she's inhaling/ gulping her food. How do I have her not eat so fast even though I'm using a slow feeder.
Have you ever tried dry food in an interactive feeder? Lola can have wet food some of the time and dried kibble at other times. Using an interactive feeder will slow her down and provide mental stimulation at the same time. Your vet will most likely have a good one for sale at the clinic. You can also discuss the dry food and maybe purchase a brand that cleans the teeth, too, which is a good feature. The vet may also have a special bowl that will slow Lola down even more. If you have dry food on hand, it can also be used when practicing obedience commands with Lola. She can get part of her meal during training sessions. As well, you could take a Kong toy and put some of the wet food inside - she will have to work at it to get the food out (be sure to wash in between uses.) Another option is to feed her small meals more often, she may be less hungry between feedings and slow down a bit. Good luck!
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Have two dogs, both are gulpers. Treats, snacks, meal times. It's all the same. I've tried scattering it, they sit and wait until I say ok, Alfie has a puzzle feeder that he destroyed one dinner time because he couldn't get his food..... I may try the muffin tins, but I don't know what else to do.
Alfie is also very very destructive. He destroyed the previously mentioned bowl, a door mat, pulled out herbs. this happens whenever he is left alone, even for 5 minutes
He also loves to dig. We play fetch 4 times a day with walks becoming more regular and teaching him agility, but we are thinking of surrendering him as my parents have said he should be given a chance on a farm. Red is a failed herded but Alfie hasn't had that chance. I am at a loss of if I should keep trying to train him or give him to a farmer
Hello Madeline, First, know that you are in the height of doggie teenage-hood, which is often one of the hardest ages behaviorally, especially with destructiveness and hyper-activity. Age can be a factor here. Second, I would try the metal tins. You can also use a large metal or glass dish, put the food on the bottom and cover most of the way with tennis balls pup has to push out of the way or pull out of the dish, to slow them down. Check out the article linked below on chewing. I would implement several things found in that article - confine pup while away and at night - like the crate option. Work on commands like Out and Leave It - instructions in the article. Use a deterrent spray on objects pup is chewing over and over again. Destructive chewing can increase again between 6-10 months because pups jaws develop then, even after teeth have come in. I generally recommend people crate train until at least 18 months since most dogs are chewers until then naturally. Some mature sooner and are ready for more freedom at 1 year, but you often see the pay-off from confinement, supervision, and training after 1 year in that area. The main goal is for the chewing not to become a long time habit, but something pup grows out of because their has been enough training and supervision to interrupt it when it does happen. Chewing article: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/train-dog-not-to-chew/ Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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My dog eats fast and swallows big bites and she is very easy to train. And she doesn't eat dog food she only eats chicken, two tipes of treats and other food that is for people.
Hello Beatrise, I recommend purchasing a large shallow cake pan type bowl for the chicken. Place several rubber balls that are easy to clean and too big for her to hold in her mouth, in the bowl covering 2/3 of the food dish - so that she has to push the balls around in the bowl to get the chicken under the balls. I also recommend mixing the chicken with kibble in a baggie, to flavor the kibble like the chicken, and feeding her that food...then slowly increase the amount of kibble and decrease the amount of chicken over the course of a month. Do not give her any other treats or human food besides the chicken and kibble - which can also be used as treats when you want to give her something, so that her only option for food is the chicken/kibble mixture. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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