How to Train Your Dog to Not Attack Other Dogs

Hello Kate, See if there is a G.R.O.W.L. class in your area you can join with pup. Those classes are designed for dog aggressive and reactive dogs. The dogs are intensively socialized together in a structured environment while wearing basket muzzles for safety, to help overcome reactivity and aggression issues more quickly under the guidance of the trainer. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Sharon, First of all, spend time teaching them basic obedience commands like come, sit, heel, down, and stay. Once they can do those commands at home where it is calm, then I would highly suggest enrolling them in an intermediate obedience class where there are intentional distractions like outdoor environments, people, and other dogs where you can regularly practice their obedience around distractions. You won't be able to remove their prey drive but you can teach them to be responsive to you around high level distractions which will come through intentionally practicing their obedience, especially "leave it" and "heel". Look for a trainer who also does off leash training and has experience working with more independent and prey driven breeds like husky's, sight hounds, and other sleddog type breeds. Also look for a trainer who uses fair correction as well as positive reinforcement with a lot of emphasis on positive reinforcement. Your dog's would benefit from the premack principle, which is where you teach the dog that the quickest way to get what he wants, ie to investigate a street squirrel, is to obey you first. Training with the distraction as a reward sometimes will create a lot of reliability around those types of distractions. For a class you will either need two people to attend so that one person can focus on one dog or you will need to attend to separate classes, one for each class. Do not attempt to handle both dogs yourself in one class or you will not be an effective trainer during the class time. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Zoe, First, I would ask your vet if there could be something like arthritis going on that's causing her pain, discomfort, mental issues, vision or hearing issues, or something else that could put her on edge. If the behavior is only recent, then it could be related to age, and addressing the cause is important with your vet. Once the cause is addressed, advocate for your dog. She might be snippy with other dogs because she feels overwhelmed by them now. Don't let every dog greet her, limit it to dogs that are polite and calm, and be the one to end interactions after 3 seconds by having her follow you away. Absolutely don't let younger dogs jump on her, pester her, or not leave her alone when she indicates she wants to leave. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Justin, Check out Jeff Gellman from SolidK9Training and Shaun O'Shay from The Good Dog. Both trainers have free videos and information online and specialize in anxiety and aggression. You need professional help from a trainer who is very experienced with many types of aggression (not just fear-aggression, although that too). You need a trainer who uses a combination of positive reinforcement and careful corrections, to be able to interrupt his arroused state (carefully) and also reward a calmer state when his aggressive state has been interrupted. This should involve a lot of obedience work, boundaries, and generally setting the tone for calmness and following you first. This has to be done very carefully. Done wrong, many dogs will transfer their aggression to whatever is nearby or in their space (another dog or person) and you or Angus could get bite. You also need some new structure for both dogs around the house so that they are generally calmer there too and looking to you for directions instead of each other. I suggest getting him used to wearing a muzzle for your safety, so that you can use it in certain training scenarios to be safe. Use a basket muzzle so that he can still open his mouth while wearing it. Use his own dog food to get him used to it over a couple of weeks slowly, letting him eat his food off of it, get a piece of food when he sniffs it or touches it, and eat food from inside it when he puts his face inside. You want him to like the muzzle before you try to buckle it, so that the muzzle it's self will just be like a harness or collar and not stressful. Go slow and make it fun for him. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Kelsey, First, I suggest looking for a G.R.O.W.L. class in your area. This class is designed for dog reactive and dog aggressive dogs to help with social skills. All of the dogs wear basket muzzles to prevent fights and they are intensively socialized together to really speed up the training process. Second, I suggest teaching him to use a treadmill in your home, to simply help take the edge off exercise wise. Check out the video below for information on how to teach this. You may even be able to find a second hand treadmill for less money somewhere like a thrift store, craigslist or Facebook trading group - of course take safety precautions when meeting someone unknown to buy second hand if you go that route. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AJ5l5LEBYD0 Check out the video linked below to work on reestablishing trust and respect in your relationship and lay the foundation for dealing with the aggressive outbursts. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AxEfqnuN0ic If there is fear aggression happening in general: https://youtu.be/mgmRRYK1Z6A I highly recommend not returning to the dog park. Social interactions with people and other dogs is important but for some dogs the highly arousing environment of a dog park, where there are often other unsocial dogs, pack mentality, highly exciting and anxious energy, and an almost complete lack of control of the dogs by the owners because of the environment. All of these things can make a dog that is struggling worse. Instead, see if there are meetup.com or obedience club groups that do structured walks or hikes together, where you can practice a structured heel, dog training classes, or canine sports you can attend. Attend with a basket muzzle if needed. Think about how Service Dogs are well socialized with other dogs, but their interactions after puppihood are calm, structured interactions to maintain their socialization. The treadmill should help with some of the daily energy needs. Teaching new commands, working on structure, obedience, and tricks can help wear a dog out also by stimulating them mentally. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden,

Hello Hannah, I highly suggest hiring a professional trainer who specializes in aggression to help you. Check out Jeff Gellman from solidK9Training. He has a free Youtube channel also, and specializes in aggression. You can learn more about aggression there, but I do highly suggest working with a professional in person for this issue. In the meantime, teach both dogs Place, crate train both, give a lot of structure and boundaries to facilitate a calm home environment and build pups' trust and respect for you calmly, and get both used to wearing a silicone basket muzzle. Muzzle introduction video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KJTucFnmAbw&list=PLXtcKXk-QWojGYcl1NCg5UA5geEnmpx4a&index=6&t=0s Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Katie, I suggest hiring a professional trainer who can work with your dog at your home around the other dog, and also at a facility around lots of new dogs. Look for someone who is very experienced with aggression, comes well recommended, and has access to lots of well behaved dogs for training sessions (such as several of the trainers' dogs who work there). Since the behavior is only happening inside and not in the more neutral territory, part of the issue is probably possessiveness and anxiety - which is being handled through him trying to control and behave aggressively to get the other dog away. Even though he has been with your family's dogs, if he is not used to meeting strange dogs, then he probably doesn't know how to respond correctly and feels nervous around them, or was dependent on other dogs in the family to make him feel secure. If other dogs are being pushy and rude toward him or subtly threatening him through stares and posturing, then he also might be reacting to that - since he doesn't have the experience to know how to handle that situation correctly. Pay attention to how the other dog in the house behaves toward him and what the body language and energy is. Be sure to teach both dogs to give each other space - especially when one indicates they want to be left alone; teaching a Place command for this and have both dogs practicing staying on Place around each other and simply being calm. Check out the video linked below for an example of a nervous dog being socialized. I recommend NOT going to the dog park with him anymore. Dog parks are often full of rude, pushy dogs, who can make nervous and aggressive dogs even worse, or if your dog is a bit of a bully, your dog will have the opportunity to practice bullying there too, which makes things worse for him and the other dogs. Dog parks can be fun but only for dogs who have the temperament and socialization to be able to handle them. Some dogs simply do not do well there. You want to practice calm, structured interactions with other dogs, like obedience classes, structured heeling walks, three second sniffs, and simply getting used to coexisting in a room with another dog with both dogs doing something like a Down-Stay Nervous - aggressive dog: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eTwNWWFhkAs Place command: https://thegooddog.net/training-videos/free-how-to-training-videos/learn-to-train-the-good-dog-way-place-command-the-good-dog-training-tips/ Without witnessing your dogs encounters with other dogs in person, seeing his body language, and what the other dog was doing, I cannot give accurate training advise. I recommend hiring a trainer who is very experienced with aggression to evaluate what's going on and develop a training protocol for you, who also has access to a lot of other dogs that your dog can practice the training protocols around. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crttenden

Hello Salome, Dog parks are very unstructured and highly arousing. They promote a pack mentality - where dogs gang up on other dogs. Some dogs are socially intelligent enough or calm enough to do well there, but dogs that tend to lack impulse control or have stronger temperaments often shouldn't go. The more opportunities she has to practice aggression, the worse it will get. At the school she is being given consistent leadership, is kept calm, and isn't allowed to practice her aggression. If she does well around other dogs when firm leadership is present, then she simply needs to only interact with other dogs in that way with leadership. One-on-one walks, heeling with other dogs. Obedience drills with other dogs, and structure when simply hanging out with other dogs, like both dogs being on a Place bed, being told where to go in the room, and any possessive or dominant behavior quickly dealt with before it can escalate. She should never go back to the dog park and shouldn't be allowed to play rough with other dogs. Instead, she should do calmer, more structured activities around other dogs with people present who can provide calm leadership. Dogs do not need to play rough to be happy in life. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Madi, For right now I would avoid the dog park with her. I suggest joining an intermediate obedience class and work on commands using long leashes, around other dogs. For practice, take her places like parks and areas with people and dogs and using a long leash practice commands like Come, Heel, Watch Me, Down-Stay, and Sit. Reward her for ignoring others and focusing on you. A basic obedience class teaches dogs the meaning of commands. Intermediate and Advanced Obedience works on teaching the dog how to do a command around distractions like other dogs, then off leash during advanced. You have to work up to advanced though - practicing using long training leashes first - so that your dog can get further away, you give a command, then reel the dog in and enforce the command if they disobey. For the chasing behavior it sounds like a combination of possessiveness of the toys and possibly herding instinct. Some dogs are also just bullies quite honestly - they think it's fun to pick on other dogs. A Solid Come, Out command, and Leave It command should be practiced. You can also practice teaching her how to honor another dog's retrieve - something that's done in hunting dog training - where one dog has to stay seated and watch as another dog fetches something, this is called "teaching a dog to honor a retrieve". I would work on teaching that and letting the dogs take turns fetching - this is going to take a lot of practice and a very solid Sit-Stay. Teach both dogs to only go when their name is called so that they can take turns fetching. I wouldn't let them run after a toy together though - that's only tempting a fight. Work on teaching skills to better manage their interactions so their are more boundaries, like leaving other dogs alone and coming when called. Out command - which means get out of the area: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-the-out-command/ Leave It command: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite Come command using the Reel In method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-whippet-to-recall Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Tracey, I do highly suggest hiring someone to work with you in person. Someone needs to be able to evaluate pup's body language around the other animals, the boundaries and structure and interactions in your home, and how pup responds to training. Safety measures like distance, back tie leashes, or basket muzzles should always be taken into account to depending on the situation - to avoid potential bites from redirected aggression, that can sometimes happen. Look for someone who specializes in aggression, comes well recommended by previous clients who have needed help with aggression, and has the resources - like access to other trainers or dogs to practice the training around, and can work with at your home for at least part of the training as well. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Careen, You need professional help from a trainer who specializes in aggression. I suggest looking up Jeff Gellman from solidK9Training and seeing if his training facility is within traveling distance from you for the aggression rehabilitation board and train. If he is not close enough to travel too, then check out Jeff's youtube trainer and videos on aggression and see if you can find someone with that level of experience close enough to you. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Ivie, They may not fight when you are around because they respect you more and trust you to handle issues between them. When your mom is around they may view her more as an equal and feel like they can get away with bullying and making their own decisions. If your mom is willing, have her work with the dogs on commands that help build their respect for her, so they don't feel like they can just do whatever they want when she is there. The small dog is likely antagonizing the other dogs or giving off nervous energy, then Apollo is bullying and teasing because he finds it fun, and your third dog is jumping in and "correcting" whoever she feels is the least worthy of respect - your small dog due to his behavior and energy. Dogs tend to gang up on one another during a fight - that's one of the things that makes large groups of dog's playing together dangerous when a fight breaks out - everyone tries to join in. First, work on teaching the dogs the following commands - more on why in a minute: Place: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=omg5DVPWIWo Out command - which means leave the area - read the entire article: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-the-out-command/ Leave It method for teaching Leave It command: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite Crate manners: https://thegooddog.net/training-videos/free-how-to-training-videos/learn-to-train-the-good-dog-way-the-crate/ Thresholds: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-w28C2g68M Heel article - The turns method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Heel Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTiKVc4ZZWo Crate training - Surprise method combined with crate manners video linked above too: https://wagwalking.com/training/like-a-crate Have your mom help with the training to build their respect and trust for her. The dogs really need structure. You need to keep Apollo from bullying your small dog so he doesn't feel like he has to use aggressive to get Apollo to leave him alone - you be the one to handle any issues so the dogs don't, and especially help your mom. Decide what your house rules are for the dogs and you be the one to enforce the rules instead of the dogs. No aggression, no pushiness, no stealing toys, no stealing food, no being possessive of people or things, or any other unwanted behavior - if one dog is causing a problem, you and your mom be the ones to enforce the rules so that the dogs are NOT working it out themselves. For example, if one dog comes over to your other dog while he is trying to sleep, tell the dog who came over "Out". If he obeys, praise and reward him. If he disobeys, stand in front of your sleeping dog, blocking the other dog from getting to him, and walk toward pup calmly but firmly until he leaves the area and stops trying to go back to the sleeping dog. The Out article linked above has a section on pushiness that details how to do this. If your small dog growls at Apollo, make your small dog leave the room while also disciplining Apollo for antagonizing him if needed. Be vigilant and take the pressure off of your smaller dog to handle things himself - you want him to learn to look to you when there is a problem, and for Apollo to learn to stop bullying because you have taught it to him and not because your small dog has resorted to aggression. Have all dogs practice being on separate place beds in the same room and staying on them for 1-2 hours calmly - this should be very helpful for your mom when things are tense. You can give them a food-stuffed chew toy on the place bed and they can move around to get comfortable but they can't get off until given a release command - don't put the bed too close together with food present. They need to have time where they are simply just calmly coexisting, and Place is also a good way to teach them impulse control and calm respect for you and how to cope with the other dogs being around better. When Apollo gets too excited or agitated around your smaller dog, give the dogs a break by either tethering him to yourself with a 6-8 foot leash or crating one or both dogs separately. Feed both in separate locked crates so there is not competition for food or anxiety from the other dog hovering nearby waiting. If Apollo is hard to physically handle right now, keep a 4-6 foot drag leash on him while you are home to supervise, so that you can simply pick of the end of the leash and enforce his obedience if he ignores you without drama. Check out VirChewLy leashes for a chewproof leash if he chews normal leashes. Your attitude in the household needs to be very calm and confident. You should mean what you say and enforce the rules but be very calm and not angry, anxious, or loud - I know that's a lot easier said than done! You and your mom's attitudes help set the tone for the dogs being calmer and feeling like you are taking care of things and leading though. When the dogs are being calm around each other and relaxed, you can give them a treat but try not to let the other dogs see you doing it so they don't rush over too. Simply place the treat between their paws while they are lying down, then walk away so they don't get super excited. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Jeri, Is sounds like pup has leash reactivity - which is where the confinement of the leash or an association with something bad happening while out on a walk is primarily triggering the aggression, but pup does fine up close, off-leash, like in the house, with other dogs. Since pup is more nervous around dogs at home, the reactivity might be defensive and anxiety related partially. I do suggest hiring a professional trainer to help you with this. Look for someone who has access to other well-mannered dogs, who can safely set up training scenarios around other dogs, controlling the distance between the dogs, and practicing calm passes - rewarding calm responses and body language. Watch body language here - look for signs of stress and try to reward pup while they are still calm and relaxed because you want to condition pup to feel calm around the other dogs, in addition to just not lunging. Depending on what you are using now, you may also need to use different training equipment during walks, and especially training sessions, simply to make sure that pup cannot pull you over while this is still an issue being worked through. What you use will depend on pup, gentle leaders, no-pull front harnesses, and prong collars are some options - but each needs to be used and worn in a specific way, so make sure you are fitting and using each correctly. What works best, depends a lot on your specific dog. I do not recommend a choke collar though because they can damage the trachea. Enforce training equipment by connecting it to pup's usual collar by another leash or Carabiner for added security with strong dogs. Also, see if there is a G.R.O.W.L. class in your area. A G.R.O.W.L. class is a class for dog aggressive/reactive dogs, who are all intensively socialized together while wearing a basket muzzle, in a structured environment. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello, I suggest hiring a professional trainer to help in person with this. Look for someone who specializes in aggression, comes well recommended by previous clients who dealt with dog aggression in their pups, and has access to other well-mannered dogs to practice practice training exercises around. See if there is a G.R.O.W.L. class in your area and join one if you can. Those classes are for dog reactive/aggressive dogs, who all wear basket muzzles (more comfortable) and are intensively socialized together in a structured environment. Muzzle introduction video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KJTucFnmAbw&list=PLXtcKXk-QWojGYcl1NCg5UA5geEnmpx4a&index=6&t=0s Finally, work on the structure of your walk to set the tone for calmness and respect and trust toward you. Do the following only with the direction of a qualified trainer or behaviorist. Some dogs will redirect aggression to whoever is closest while aroused, so a basket muzzle or other precautions might be needed while training to keep you and others safe. You want pup to be working during the walk - having to stay behind you, focus on you, perform commands periodically, and not have his mind on scanning the area in search of other dogs. The walk should start with him having to exit your home very calmly, performing obedience commands at the door if he isn't calm. He should wait for permission ("Okay" or "Free" or "Let's Go") before going through the door instead of bolting through if that's an issue. When you walk he should be in the heel position - with his head behind your leg. That position decreases his arousal, reduces stress because he isn't the one in charge and the one encountering things first. It prevents him from scanning for other dogs, staring dogs down or being stared down, and ignoring you behind him. It also requires him to be in a more submissive, structured, focused, calmer mindset - which has a direct effect on how aroused, stressed, and aggressive he is - it makes him feel like the responsibility is on your shoulders not his around other dogs. Additionally, when you do pass other dogs, as soon as he starts staring them down, interrupt him - Don't wait until pup reacting really aggressively, refocus before they are highly aroused and full of adrenaline and cortisol, and to keep the dog in a less aroused/calmer state to begin with. This also makes the walk more pleasant for him in the long-run. Only do interruptions with the help of a trainer for safety reasons. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Sarah, I am so sorry this happened. It could be prey drive, territorial behavior, or dog aggression you weren't aware he had (getting along with another family dog doesn't really effect whether a dog gets along with dogs outside the family). Without working with you in person and evaluating him in the situations I can't say for sure what's going on. You need to hire professional help for this. What I generally recommend for dogs that will go over a six foot fence is two fold. First, work with a trainer who uses remote collar training, a lot of structure and boundaries, as well as positive reinforcement combined with it. Ask questions and read reviews or ask to speak to their previous clients. Make sure this trainer is very experienced with different types of aggression and with behavior issues - many only focus on obedience and the skills and knowledge are two different things, so you need a trainer with both types of knowledge. Second, I suggest an electric fence - not in place of your 6 foot fence but in addition to it. I suggest burying an electric fence two feet in front of your regular fence so that the dog is corrected if they approach the regular fence. For many dogs this does two things. 1. It interrupts the dog during their aroused state when they start charging the fence. 2. It keeps the dog far enough back from the fence that they can't try to climb it. This works for most dogs but could fail without additional training. With additional training to deal with the real issue, so the dog's desire to go after the other dog is lowered, the electric fence will normally be enough of a deterrent for the dog not to even attempt an escape from the yard. I really believe you need someone to help you in person but James Penrith from TaketheLeadDogTraining and Jeff Gellman from SolidK9Training are good resources to learn more about teaching avoidance, dealing with aggression, and remote collar training. They both have channels on YouTube with tons of videos on aggression, cat chasing/killing (prey drive), ect... Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Sellene, In your case, I absolutely would NOT recommend any of the methods from that article. Instead, hire a professional trainer who specializes in aggression and behavior issues and comes very well recommended by previous clients' whose dogs also struggled with aggression. Look for someone who has access to lots of other dogs and probably a at least one other trainer or staff member to facilitate the types of interactions you will need to practice. Getting your pup used to wearing a basket muzzle is a good idea however. Check out Jeff Gellman from SolidK9Training. I do not recommend doing the training yourself though. Many aggressive dogs will redirect their aggression to whoever is close-by if you are not careful, when the dog is in a highly aroused state, so aggression needs to be worked with carefully. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Austin, First, this won't be what you want to hear but you need to stop going to the dog park when there are other dogs there. That environment, the opportunity for him to practice his aggression, and the types of interactions he is having with other dogs is very likely making the aggression worse. Also, his reactions toward the other dogs can actually cause fear-aggression in other dogs, not to mention potential injury. Some dogs shouldn't go to the dog park period. Dog parks are also never a good place to deal with aggression issues for a variety of reasons. With that said, there are other things you can do with him to socialize but it's not going to look like a dog park. First, see if there is a structured obedience class you can join or a group of friends who want to create their own. Practicing structured obedience around other dogs would be a good way to socialize him. The following commands could be used to create your own obedience class with a calmer atmosphere and more structure (or just join a current class that seems calmer and more structured): Place: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=omg5DVPWIWo Crate manners: https://thegooddog.net/training-videos/free-how-to-training-videos/learn-to-train-the-good-dog-way-the-crate/ Thresholds: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-w28C2g68M Heel article - The turns method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Heel Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTiKVc4ZZWo Down-Stay: https://www.thelabradorsite.com/train-your-labrador-to-lie-down-and-stay/ Leave It: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite Out - which means leave the room: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-the-out-command/ Once you have done some foundation work via a class, see if there is a dog walking or dog hiking group in your area that you could join with pup for regular socialization and exercise. Having him practice a structured, focused heel, where he is walking behind your leg and focused on you in the presence of other dogs would probably be really good for him, something less stressful and very enjoyable for him, and at the same time - socialize him around other dogs in the way you want him to be - helping him associate other dogs with pleasant, calm things. You could also see if there is a G.R.O.W.L. class in your area, which is a structured class for dog-reactive and dog- aggressive dogs who all wear a basket muzzle during class for safety, and are intensively socialized around each other. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Katie, Unfortunately, without being there to ask a lot of questions and see the dogs interact together I can't really tell you what's going on either. You need someone who is very experienced with behavior issues and aggression and really good at reading canine body language to work with you in person to figure out what the trigger is. It might be a resource guarding issue - of people, food, space, or objects. It might be pup is telling the other two that he wants to be left alone through stares or body language and they are not honoring that. He might have a really low threshold in general. The attacks could be coinciding with something else and he is redirecting agitation or fear of something else toward the other dogs - such as seeing another dog outside that's he is aggressive toward and turning on your dog instead. It could be a lot of different things. I suggest finding a trainer with lots of experience in this area - ask questions about how they train and their experience ahead of time so ensure they are a good fit for your needs. Have that person come to your home and evaluate the dogs together, asking you lots of questions about their interactions to give clues. You may even be able to use someone remotely if there isn't a good person in your area, via Skype and you taking videos and sending them to someone. In person will be best however - expect it to take a few sessions for the trainer to get a good in-person evaluation in since the dogs will be focused on them when they are new at first, and not each other. The first sessions will probably be mostly talking about the issue, evaluating and offering advice to try, tweaking the training advice as you learn what signs to look for in pup, and see how pup is responding to the training. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Sarah, First, understand that the situation is a lot of the issue. When a dog is on leash it can create frustration and make it so that a dog can't greet another dog in a proper-dog way. Direct face to face interactions without the dog being able to turn sideways, walk away or sniff another dog's bottom is very confrontational. A dog who runs up to your dog and gets in his face when he feels trapped is acting very rid in terms of canine social order. Your dog's anxiety level is probably high in those situations, his ability to manage the interaction very low, and he may have a low threshold and tolerance level in general. Him acting that way now might be due to that type of situation being repeated often and changes in mental maturity that takes place between 1-2 years and can include more territorial behavior, dominance changes, and wanting to play and interact with other dogs differently than he used to (puppies play differently than dogs). With all that said, the first order of business is to try to advocate for him and prevent other dogs running up to him as much as your can. Avoid areas where that is constantly happening and never take a dog on-leash into a dog park - that is extremely dangerous! When he does have to meet another dog and it can't be avoided, try to relax as much as you can and give slack in the leash to reduce pup's anxiety. Let the dogs say hi for two seconds, then quickly tell your dog "let's go!" In as cheerful a voice as you can and start walking away. As soon as pup follows praise and give a treat - carry treats in your pocket during walks. This is called the 3 second rule. Keeping greetings under three seconds can help prevent aggression by letting the dogs say hi just long enough to remove curiousity but ending the encounter before either dog can start competing or getting pushy. The other dog may follow for a bit but just keep moving and try to stay cheerful, since the other dog alread yet your dog he will typically get distracted by something else after a bit and leave. Work on teaching pup to look to you to handle things instead of handling it himself. Protect him from other dogs in bad situations when you can (going on structured heeling walks with other dogs with space between them is a better way to socialize). Check out the videos linked below. Work on teaching pup a structured heel. Start your walk off with pup paying attention to you and calm, waiting at the door threshold before going outside, walking slightly behind you at heel and focused on you, interrupt any staring at other dogs, not heeling, ect... When you pass another dog, calmly praise pup and give a treat when he looks at you for direction, ignored the other dog, or generally stays calm and doesn't fixate or tense up - don't reward if staring, tensing up, ignoring you, pulling ahead, or acting aggressively - interrupt instead until he is doing better and you can reward. Place - good for building respect and trust for you in general: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=omg5DVPWIWo Thresholds: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-w28C2g68M Heel article - The turns method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Heel Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTiKVc4ZZWo Some examples of more extreme issues if needed. If pup is behaving aggressively when just passing another dog also, I suggest hiring a professional trainer who specializes in behavior issues to help also. Aggression video: https://youtu.be/mgmRRYK1Z6A More aggression videos: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KIJoEJfTS-E Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Holly, I suggest having pup work for her food by having to interact with the muzzle and earning a piece of food each time she does. Over the course of a couple of weeks (how fast you go will just depending on how she is responding - that's just an estimate of time), gradually work her up to wearing it more and more using the technique I go over below. The goal is to desensitize her and to motivate her with her own hunger. If she is an extremely picky eater and has weight or blood sugar issues you will have to do this differently, but I am assuming those things aren't an issue. Also, purchase a silicone basket muzzle for her to wear. That type of muzzle will be more comfortable and still let her open her mouth up while wearing it - if you don't already have that type. To introduce the muzzle, first place it on the ground and sprinkle her meal kibble around it. Do this until she is comfortable eating around it. Next, when she is comfortable with it being on the floor with food, hold it up and reward her with a piece of kibble every time she touches or sniffs it in your hand. Feed her her whole meal this way. Practice this until she is comfortable touching it. Next, hold a treat inside of it through the muzzle's holes, so that she has to poke his face into it to get the kibble. As she gets comfortable doing that, gradually hold the treat further down into the muzzle, so that she has to poke his face all the way into the muzzle to get the treat. Practice until she is comfortable having her face in it. Next, feed several treats in a row through the muzzle's holes while she holds his face in the muzzle for longer. Practice this until she can hold his face in it for at least ten seconds while being fed treats. Next, when she can hold her face in the muzzle for ten seconds while remaining calm, while her face is in the muzzle move the muzzle's buckles together briefly, then feed her a treat through the muzzle. Practice this until she is not bothered by the buckles moving back and forth. Next, while she is wearing the muzzle buckle it and unbuckle it briefly, then feed a treat. As she gets comfortable with this step, gradually keep the muzzle buckled for longer and longer while feeding treats through the muzzle occasionally. Next, gradually increase how long she wears the muzzle for and decrease how often you give her a treat, until she can calmly wear the muzzle for at least an hour without receiving treats more than two treats during that hour. In the meantime I suggest crating her and only letting her out when the other dogs are put away - rotating who is out to prevent fights. I also suggest teaching a Place command and working on some structured obedience with her. It sounds like she lacks impulse control and bite inhibition, which is obviously very dangerous for your other dogs as you know. I would hire a trainer who specializes in aggression and uses both positive reinforcement and fair corrections to help you. Check out Sean O' Shea from the Good Dog and Jeff Gellman from SolidK9Training on YouTube for videos talking and showing work with aggression. I would hire help before implementing what they do on your own though. \ Place: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=omg5DVPWIWo Crate manners: https://thegooddog.net/training-videos/free-how-to-training-videos/learn-to-train-the-good-dog-way-the-crate/ Thresholds: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-w28C2g68M Heel article - The turns method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Heel Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTiKVc4ZZWo Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Tamara, I highly suggest hiring a professional trainer who specializes in aggression, comes well recommended by their previous clients whose dogs dealt with aggression, and can come to your home or work with all of the dogs together. Hello Isabel, First, I do suggest hiring a professional trainer who specializes in behavior issues and aggression to help you with this. Look for someone who has a lot of experience in this area, comes well recommended by previous clients, has a staff of trainers or assistants who can practice the training with pup as "strangers", and who has access to other well mannered dogs - such as the trainers' dogs. To help manage the dogs together, you can start by teaching the dogs the following commands. Place: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=omg5DVPWIWo Crate manners: https://thegooddog.net/training-videos/free-how-to-training-videos/learn-to-train-the-good-dog-way-the-crate/ Thresholds: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-w28C2g68M Check out Jeff Gellman from solidK9Training, Thomas from the Canine Educator, and Sean O Shea from The Good Dog Training. These trainers have their own YouTube channels and all specialize in aggression and reactivity and fear. Be aware that an aggressive dog can redirect their aggression to whoever is closest while highly aroused. Working with pup while he is in an aggressive state is a bite risk. I do recommend hiring a professional trainer with a staff of trainers who can practice being "strangers", and who has a lot of experience with aggression and comes well recommended by their previous clients. Feed all the dogs in separate locked crates as well. No free feeding or feeding without confinement when Mazie is around. I wouldn't even leave food bowls down between meals. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Dan, I suggest hiring a trainer who can evaluate the situation in person to watch pups interact. This could be aggression, but what is super common at this age is for one pup to jump out at another and want to wrestle with the puppy who just came in - it's a game, and many pups get great enjoyment from ambushing the other puppy who couldn't see them coming because they were outside. If that's what's going on and it is playful (even if rough play), it is completely normal and nothing to be concerned about - pup's are practicing hunting skills, social skills, and entertaining themselves. However, if might not be fun for you to have to deal with each time, so I do suggest teaching each pup an Out, Place, and Leave It command and working on building the pup's ability to obey those commands with distractions around. Once the pups are good at those commands you can decide when it's okay for them to rough house and when they need to be calmer around each other and not wrestling and running through the house. Out - which means leave the area: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-the-out-command/ Leave It method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite Place: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=omg5DVPWIWo If there is true aggression going on or you are unsure, hire a professional right away to evaluate what's going on, see the situation to figure out the triggers, and work with pups with you. If there is real aggression, don't wait to hire someone since aggression is best treated early. Watching videos of dogs playing together might be a helpful way for you to get an idea of whether pup's are playing rough (mock fighting) or truly fighting. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Judi, For dog reactivity I would hire a professional trainer who specializes in aggression and leash reactivity to help you with this because there is a risk of a dog redirecting aggression to whoever is close-by while highly aroused, and thus a bite risk to you even though pup may not normally have any human aggression - that's always a risk with aggression while a dog is highly aroused. With a qualified trainer's help, first work on teaching pup a structured heel. This can be started in your own backyard or quiet culdesac. Heel article - The turns method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Heel Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTiKVc4ZZWo When you begin your walk, work on pup's respect for you, following and calmness before you ever leave the front door. Thresholds: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-w28C2g68M Once pup is outside, he should be behind you and not allowed to be scanning the horizon, tensing up, and moving ahead of you. Those things will get him more aroused and more likely to react. He needs to be in a following, relaxed state. This means his muzzle should be behind your leg during the walk - it might seem strict but dog's who struggle with leash reactivity have to have structured walks. Finally, he will need to be interrupted at the first signs of a bad reaction. That means as soon as he stiffens up, starts to try to pull ahead, stares intensely, growls, ect...Don't wait until he has a full explosion or it will be harder to regain his focus. Teach him while he is still in a mindset to make the switch back to calm. Practice at first from across the street - not right next to the fence, and when he finally gets to the point (through probably a lot of repetition and practice for a while) where he can remain calm while walking by THEN you can reward focus on you, calmness, and tolerance to help desensitize him more to the other dogs emotionally. This second part is important for desensitizing and gaining lasting results but often the interruptions and structure are needed first. Again, hire someone qualified who can do this training with you to ensure it's all done effectively and safely - once pup is doing better, you can probably continue a lot of the training on your own to fully desensitize pup. Here are a few examples of interrupters and dog aggressive or dog reactive dogs being worked with - different tools often work for different dogs. A good trainer can help you find what works best for you guys. Reactive dog - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XY8s_MlqDNE Aggressive dog - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vfiDe0GNnLQ&t=4s https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NZbdrQd--wo&t=316s I will say I do NOT recommend a choke collar. I prefer prong collars, gentle leaders, halters, martingale collars, and e-collars all over choke collars when those tools are used correctly. The reason is, a choke collar is hard to use effectively for training results and can easily damage the dog's trachea because of the way it puts hard pressure on the front of the dog's throat. A prong collar looks more harsh but when fitted and used correctly is actually a lot safer because it distributes the correction all the way around the neck and requires a lot less pressure for the dog to respond. A gentle leader can also be a good option for many dogs but isn't necessarily less adverse than a prong collar because some dogs find their vision being interrupted more adverse than other methods - it depends a lot on the dog what tool works best. The videos above will give some examples of some of these tools being used. Fitting a Prong collar properly: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=23zEy-e6Khg Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Thank you for the question. It's a tough one; it is hard to say why Jimmy is showing this aggression. He may feel a lack of confidence and perhaps some anxiety when outside your home; being a foster dog is never easy because it's a lot of upheaval for the dog. As well, you do not know Jimmy's story before he came to you. I would speak to the head of the foster organization to see if they are associated with a behaviorist. Because he has already had issues with other dogs, you are right to want to help get the problem solved now. Jimmy will not be adoptable until the issue is taken care of. You can look at Robert Cabral's website in the meantime while you check into a trainer through the foster organization. He trains shelter dogs and has many videos. You may find something to help: https://www.robertcabral.com/ I would hesitate to try and fix the problem without onsite intervention and training. All the best to you and to Jimmy!

Hello Liliana, First, you need to improve management so that he cannot drag you toward another dog to start with. I do suggest desensitizing him to a basket muzzle and using something like a gentle leader or prong collar to give better control. Do NOT use a standard back-clip harness or he will be able to drag you even easier. To introduce the muzzle, first place it on the ground and sprinkle his meal kibble around it. Do this until he is comfortable eating around it. Next, when he is comfortable with it being on the floor with food, hold it up and reward him with a piece of kibble every time he touches or sniffs it in your hand. Feed him his whole meal this way. Practice this until he is comfortable touching it. Next, hold a treat inside of it through the muzzle's holes, so that he has to poke his face into it to get the treat. As he gets comfortable doing that, gradually hold the treat further down into the muzzle, so that he has to poke his face all the way into the muzzle to get the treat. Practice until he is comfortable having his face in it. Next, feed several treats in a row through the muzzle's holes while he holds his face in the muzzle for longer. Practice this until he can hold his face in it for at least ten seconds while being fed treats. Next, when he can hold his face in the muzzle for ten seconds while remaining calm, while his face is in the muzzle move the muzzle's buckles together briefly, then feed him a treat through the muzzle. Practice this until he is not bothered by the buckles moving back and forth. Next, while he is wearing the muzzle buckle it and unbuckle it briefly, then feed a treat. As he gets comfortable with this step, gradually keep the muzzle buckled for longer and longer while feeding treats through the muzzle occasionally. Next, gradually increase how long he wears the muzzle for and decrease how often you give him a treat, until he can calmly wear the muzzle for at least an hour without receiving treats more than two treats during that hour. The attacks need to stop first. Be aware also that a dog aggressive dog will sometimes redirect that aggression toward whoever is closest while highly aroused - meaning that a dog that normally is great with people may bite their owner in that specific situation. That is one reason why a basket muzzle temporarily could be a good idea. If you introduce it correctly at home ahead of time over at least two weeks, it shouldn't be a cause for a lot of stress during the walk - what you don't want to do is associate the muzzle only with times around other dogs. Second, see if their is a G.R.O.W.L. class anywhere within driving distance of you. A G.R.O.W.L. class will be cheaper than private training and that class is specifically designed for dogs who are dog aggressive or dog reactive. Third, check out Thomas from the Canine Educator on YouTube. He specializes in aggression and behavior issues - you need help from sources that deal with aggression successfully very often - not all trainers specialize in it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-giTlfidjws In calm locations without other dogs around, begin working on pup's responsiveness and respect for you surrounding the walk. Pup has to be calm before leaving your home. He needs to let you go through the doorway first and wait until given permission. He should walk at a heel behind you while on leash - his muzzle should not pass your leg. A dog with reactivity or aggression needs a lot of structure on a walk - no forging ahead or sniffing and scanning the horizon unless you release him from the heel command to go potty. Don't allow early signs of aggression - such as scanning the horizon looking for other dogs, tensing up, moving ahead of you while heeling, ect...Reward when his body language is calm and he is focused on following you. Thresholds: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-w28C2g68M Heel article - The turns method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello John, What you are describing sounds like leash reactivity. I do suggest hiring a professional trainer to work with you in person for this. Look for someone who comes well recommended by their previous clients whose dogs struggled in this area. Look for one who is very experienced with aggression and reactivity - not all trainers have experience with behavior issues, aggression, or reactivity. Start by adding more structure to your walk. Pup needs to start the walk out calmly and respectfully - sitting for the leash to be clipped and waiting to exit through the door behind you. Pup needs to be walking behind you at a heel, not being allowed to scan the horizon, and following you. His focus needs to be turned to you and working during the walk - no opportunities to tense up and scan for other dogs. Incorporate a lot of obedience and focus exercises into the walk. Interrupt any moving ahead of you during the walk, scanning the horizon, and tensing up early - don't wait for a full explosion. Be aware that a reactive or aggressive dog can redirect their aggression to whoever is closest while aroused - if that may be an issue in your case, definitely do this with professional help and incorporate the right safety measures like a basket muzzle, that pup is introduced to with treats ahead of time to make the muzzle seem normal for him. Pay attention to your own body language - are you confident and calm during the walk? Are you tightening the leash, tensing up, and acting nervous as you approach another dog - it's hard not to subconsciously do those types of things when your dog is reactive, but it can communicate to pup that they should get tense and confrontational, and make training harder for you. Practice and knowing what to do with the help of the right trainer can help you actually feel confident and calm during a walk also - which in turn also helps training. Thresholds: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-w28C2g68M Heel article - The turns method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Heel Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTiKVc4ZZWo When pup does do well around another dog - stays calm, focuses on you, and follows you - reward with a treat. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Caitlin, I suggest starting with a lot of structure and boundaries. Crate train the new dog and work up to teaching a two hour place command. Place command: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O75dyWITP1s A lot of different things could be going on here. Pup might be resource guarding people, places or things. This could be the smaller dog challenging the new pup in subtle ways and the new dog reacting to that. There might be a general issue with dog aggression that the dog's owners didn't disclose or weren't aware of - that could be related to a traumatic effect that's happened with another dog, a lack of socialization, genetics, ect...The type of aggression it is will effect how to address it. It the situation is very temporary, I suggest focusing on safe management and structure via crate training, tethering pup to something secure and working on a long place command, and desensitizing pup to wearing a basket muzzle. Reward tolerance and calmness when the dogs are in the same room, be sure that the small dog is not antagonizing the other dog by acting dominant, staring them down, or being generally pushy, and don't allow the dog's together without safety measures and supervision. If this turns into a longer term situation, you will need to hire a professional trainer who evaluate the situation in person to see exactly when and why the outbursts are happening, and whether this is a general issue with dog aggression that needs to be addressed, an issue between those specific dogs that needs to be tackled - depending on the triggers, fear, or resource guarding. Feed both dogs in separate locked crates to avoid resource guarding around food, remove food bowls after meals - don't leave them sitting around. Pay attention to what other items might be being guarded. Muzzle introduction video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KJTucFnmAbw&list=PLXtcKXk-QWojGYcl1NCg5UA5geEnmpx4a&index=6&t=0s Place command: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O75dyWITP1s Surprise method - crate introduction: https://wagwalking.com/training/like-a-crate Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Bryan, For what you are describing you need to hire a professional trainer to help you in person. Look for someone who specializes in aggression and behavior issues, has the resources needed to practice safe training protocols - like a controlled environment, access to other social, well behaved dogs, and a team of trainers they work with who can handle the other dogs during training sessions while your trainer works with you and your dog. Not all trainers are set up to handle aggression or experienced to do so, so ask a lot of questions, look for someone who has dealt with aggression successfully a lot in the past, and check into previous client reviews and referrals - specifically from those whose dogs dealt with aggressive behavior. Make sure the trainer has a full history of your dog - including a bite history with other dogs, kids aggression incidences, any redirecting of aggression toward other people, or other forms of aggression. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Abbie, It sounds like resource guarding with the ball - many dogs get very intense while playing fetch and may become aggressive if interrupted by another dog. First, I suggest teaching him to honor another dog's retrieval. To do that, you practice with a friend and their dog, having the dogs take turns sitting, staying and watching the other dog retrieve, and then switching off so that they retrieve while the other dog watches. This is a great game to build self-control also. Second, I wouldn't play ball with another dog right now unless they are taking turns - don't let the resource guarding get worse, AND since this is happening with stranger's dog's where you can't control that at times, work on a really solid recall with your pup so that you can call them back as soon as you spot another dog approaching. Check out the come article linked below and work on a come using the Premack Principle with a long leash using a ball as the reward pup earns for coming - to teach pup to stop whatever they are doing and come first in order to continue the game while playing. https://www.petful.com/behaviors/train-dog-to-come-when-called/ More details on the Reel In method (use a padded back clip harness while pup is on a long leash for safety reasons, practice shorter distances first to avoid pup hitting the end of the training leash at a fast pace): https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-whippet-to-recall Third, while practicing honoring with retrievals, reward your dog for calmly allowing the other dog to retrieve the ball, run past, and generally be doing what your dog wants to do when it's their turn to wait, to help your pup associate another dog having the ball as something good. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Jessica, First, I suggest teaching him to honor another dog's retrieval. To do that, you practice with a friend and their dog, having the dogs take turns sitting, staying and watching the other dog retrieve, and then switching off so that they retrieve while the other dog watches. This is a great game to build self-control also. Second, I wouldn't play ball with another dog right now unless they are taking turns - don't let the resource guarding get worse or forward progress will be extremely difficult. Third, while practicing honoring with retrievals, reward your dog for calmly allowing the other dog to retrieve the ball, run past, and generally be doing what your dog wants to do when it's their turn to wait, to help your pup associate another dog with the ball as something good. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Ashlyn, It sounds like possible leash reactivity, since there was so much excitement and adrenaline beforehand. I suggest working on calmness around other dogs in general. If she is less aroused to begin with, there are less chances of an issue. When classes open places again and it's safe to do so, I suggest looking for a G.R.O.W.L. class in your area, which is a class for dog aggressive or dog reactive dogs, who all wear basket muzzles and are intensively socialized together in a structured environment to help with with calmness around other dogs. For the pulling, I suggest working on the structure of your walk first. You want pup to be working during the walk - having to stay behind you, focus on you, perform commands periodically, and not have his mind on scanning the area in search of other dogs. The walk should start with him having to exit your home very calmly, performing obedience commands at the door if he isn't calm. He should wait for permission ("Okay" or "Free" or "Let's Go") before going through the door instead of bolting through if that's an issue. When you walk he should be in the heel position - with his head behind your leg. That position decreases his arousal, reduces stress because he isn't the one in charge and the one encountering things first. It prevents him from scanning for other dogs, staring dogs down or being stared down, and ignoring you behind him. It also requires him to be in a more submissive, structured, focused, calmer mindset - which has a direct effect on how aroused, stressed, and aggressive he is too. Additionally, when you do pass other dogs, if starts staring them down, interrupt him. It is far easier to deal with reactivity when you interrupt a dog early in the process - before they are highly aroused and full of adrenaline and cortisol, and to keep the dog in a less aroused/calmer state to begin with. This also makes the walk more pleasant for him in the long-run. Thresholds: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-w28C2g68M Heel article - The turns method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Heel Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTiKVc4ZZWo There are a couple of routes you can take with the separation anxiety. The first step is to work on building his independence and his confidence by adding a lot of structure and predictability into his routine. Things such as making him work for rewards like meals, walks, and pets. Working on "Stay" and "Place," commands while you move away or leave the room, and teaching him to remain inside a crate when the door is open. Change your routine surrounding leaving so that he does not anticipate alone time and build up his anxiety before you leave - which is hard for him to deescalate from, and be sure to continue to give him something to do in the crate during the day (such as a dog food stuffed Kong to chew on); this is the general protocol for separation anxiety. It is gentle but can take a very long time on its own for some dogs. Place: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=omg5DVPWIWo Crate manners: https://thegooddog.net/training-videos/free-how-to-training-videos/learn-to-train-the-good-dog-way-the-crate/ Another protocol involves teaching the dog to cope with their own anxiety by making their current anxious go-to behaviors unpleasant, giving them an opportunity to stop those behaviors long enough to learn something new, then rewarding the correct, calmer behavior instead. This protocol can feel harsh because it involves careful correction, but it tends to work much quicker for many dogs. If you go this route, I suggest hiring a trainer who is very experienced using both positive reinforcement and fair correction. Who is extremely knowledgeable about e-collar training, and can follow the protocol listed below, to help you implement the training. Building his independence and structure in his life will still be an important part of this protocol too. First, check out this video from SolidK9Training on treating anxiety. It will give a brief over-view of treating separation anxiety more firmly. This trainer can be a bit abrupt with his teaching style with people but is very experienced working with highly aggressive, anxious, and reactive dogs. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y5GqzeLzysk Make sure you are implementing what he teaches there in other areas of his life too. Second, purchase a remote electronic collar, e-collar, with a wide range of levels. I recommend purchasing E-Collar Technologies Mini Educator or Garmin Delta Sport or Dogtra for this. If you are not comfortable with an e-collar then you can use a vibration collar (the Mini Educator and Garmin should also have a vibration mode) or unscented air remote controlled air spray collar. DO NOT use a citronella collar, buy the additional unscented air canister if the collar comes with the citronella and make sure that you use the unscented air. (Citronella collars are actually very harsh and the smell - punisher lingers a long time so the dog continues to be corrected even after they stop the behavior). The vibration or spray collars are less likely to work than stimulation e-collars though, so you may end up spending more money by not purchasing an e-collar first. The Mini Educator has very low levels of stimulation, that can be tailored specifically to your dog. It also has vibration and beep tones that you can try using first, without having to buy additional tools. Next, set up a camera to spy on him. If you have two smart devices, like tablets or smartphones, you can Skype or Facetime them to one another with your pup’s end on mute, so that you can see and hear him but he will not hear you. Video baby monitors, video security monitors with portable ways to view the video, GoPros with the phone Live App, or any other camera that will record and transmit the video to something portable that you can watch outside live will work. Next, put the e-collar on him while he is outside of the crate, standing, and relaxed. To learn how to put the collar on him, check out this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DLxB6gYsliI Turn it to it's lowest level and push the stimulation button twice. See if he responds to the collar at all. Look for subtle signs such as turning his head, moving his ears, biting his fur, moving away from where he was, or changing his expression. If he does not respond at all, then go up one level on the collar and when he is standing and relaxed, push the stimulation button again twice. Look for a reaction again. Repeat going up one level at a time and then testing his reaction at that level until he indicates a little bit that he can feel the collar. Here is a video showing how to do this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1cl3V8vYobM A modern, high quality collar will have so many levels that each level should be really subtle and he will likely respond to a low level stimulation. It's uncomfortable but not the harsh shock many people associate with such collars if done right. Once you have found the right stimulation level for him and have it correctly fitted on him, have him wear the collar around with it turned off or not being stimulated for several hours or days if you can (take it off at night to sleep though). Next, set up your camera to spy on him while he is in the crate. Put him into the crate while he is wearing the collar and leave. Spy on him from outside. Leave however you normally would. As soon as you hear him barking or see him start to try to escape or destroy the crate from the camera, push the stimulation button once. Every time he barks or tries to get out of the crate, stimulate him again. If he does not decrease his barking or escape attempts at least a little bit after being stimulated seven times in a row, then increase the stimulation level by one level. He may not feel the stimulation while excited so might need it just slightly higher. Do not go higher than three more levels on the mini-educator or two more levels on another collar with less levels right now though because he has not learned what he is supposed to be doing yet. For example, if his level is 13 out of 100 levels on the Mini Educator, don't go past level 16 right now. The level you end up using on him on the mini educator collar will probably be low to medium, within the first forty levels of the one-hundred to one-hundred-and-twenty-five levels, depending on the model you purchase. If it is not, then have a professional evaluate whether you have the correct "working level" for him. If he continues to ignore the collar, then go up one more stimulation level and if that does not work, make sure that the collar is turned on, fitted correctly, and working. After five minutes to ten minutes, as soon as your dog stays quiet and is not trying to escape for five seconds straight, go back inside to the dog, sprinkle several treats into the crate without saying anything, then leave again. Practice correcting him from outside when he barks or tries to escape, going back inside and sprinkling treats when he stays quiet, for up to 30 minutes at first. After 30 minutes -1 hour of practicing this, when he is quiet, go back inside and sprinkle more treats. This time stay inside. Do not speak to him or pay attention to him for ten minutes while you walk around and get stuff done inside. When he is being calm, then you can let him out of the crate. When you let him out, do it the way Jeff does is in this video below. Opening and closing the door until your dog is not rushing out. You want him to be calm when he comes out of the crate and to stay calm when you get home. That is why you need to ignore him when you get home right away. Also, keep your good byes extremely boring and calm. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y5GqzeLzysk Put a food stuffed Kong into the crate with him. Once he is less anxious he will likely enjoy it and that will help him to enjoy the crate more. First, he probably needs his anxious state of mind interrupted so that he is open to learning other ways to behave. Once it's interrupted, give him a food stuffed Kong in the crate for him to relieve his boredom instead of barking, since he will need something other than barking to do at that point. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Ian, First, pup needs to be confined to a crate or room without windows that overlook where the dogs are when you aren't home to train - you need pup to not practice the unwanted behavior when you aren't there to intervene or it will make the training methods I am about to suggest very difficult and less effective. Second, pup needs to be desensitized to the other dogs' presence. You will probably need to recruit a friend with a dog to help initially, so that you can control the distance of the other dog from the window and how long the other dog stays there. Have the other dog approach the window from a distance that your dog notices them but can stay pretty calm - that might need to be really far away at first. Have the person with the other dog simply sit outside or stand there with their dog for a long period of time at first - not leaving (pup probably thinks their barking is what makes the dogs go away), and not approaching and making your dog more stressed either. Boring is the goal here. Practice obedience exercises like heel with lots of turns, Sit-Down-Stand in fast succession, Attention, and other things that require your dog to really stay engaged with you while the other dog is out the window. You will need to act confident, up beat and probably move pup through the training quickly, with rewards for focus on you and calmness about the other dog (don't reward reactivity toward the other dog), to keep pup's attention with the other dog there. If pup is barking like crazy, the other dog is probably too close still. Practice the above often, until pup finds that dog very boring and barely acknowledges them. When pup is calmer, have the other dog either move closer to your home by a few feet, or stay at the same distance but slowly walk back and forth at the same distance to your dog as they were before - the decrease in distance or movement will make things harder again for pup again - but they need to learn to slowly handle the challenge. Practice your training exercises like before with the new challenge, until pup also finds the dog boring again. As pup begins to calm down with each decrease in distance and addition of movement, slowly decrease the distance of the other dog and add in movement more and more until finally, that dog can go right past your window, where other dogs tend to pass by and pup ignore them. When pup gets to that point, keep the bottom of the window blocked off routinely so that pup can't spot dogs out the window before you do. When you spot a dog through the top half of the window, remove the blockage, and practice your method with pup and the random dog out the window. You want to initiate the training to keep pup calmer and focused on you before pup sees the other dog there - to prevent pup from becoming highly aroused before you intervene. If pup gets overly aroused during training and you loose all their focus and can't get it back through obedience, then you can spray a small puff of air from a pet convincer at their side to interrupt them, then continue your heel training, with lots of turns, changes in pace, and quick succession obedience drills until pup's attention is back on you, and they are calm enough to reward for obedience and calmness again. Also, know that if you lost pup like that, something about the other dog's movement or distance, or another factor may have been too much and you need to go back a step if this keeps happening. If pup has ever redirected their dog aggression toward you - you will need to take additional safety measures while doing all of this, like having pup wear a basket muzzle, to prevent a bite. If the behavior doesn't improve over the next two months, gets worse, or you feel overwhelmed, I suggest hiring a trainer to help you with this in person - especially since much of this training is distance, timing, attitude, and body language to be most effective. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Lovely photo! I am sorry that this happened to Misha. It is difficult to overcome a problem like that and the fact that she has now attacked another dog is unfortunate. I will give you a few guides to read with methods for getting Misha to greet other dogs calmly but you most likely will need the help of a professional, one on one, to be sure that you won't encounter a problem you cannot handle. https://wagwalking.com/training/be-calm-around-other-dogs https://wagwalking.com/training/greet-other-dogs https://wagwalking.com/training/get-along-with-other-dogs. This website has many videos and the opportunity for online training: https://robertcabral.com/

Hello Fay, What you described is called redirecting, where a dog redirects their aggression to whoever is closest while highly aroused. Since she bit you, she is likely to bite another dog while in that aroused state - at least on leash. Off-leash could be different with arousal, but I don't suggest finding out for obvious reasons. I would contact a trainer who specializes in aggression and leash reactivity. I don't suggest working on this on your own since she is redirecting aggression toward people. That doesn't mean it can't be improved with the right help and safety measures during training, but I suggest getting professional help from a trainer who specializes in aggression and comes well recommended by their previous clients who also dealt with aggression and reactivity with their pups. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello, this is a tough situation. The 12 year old deserves respect from the younger dog. And a Mastiff can be big and strong, not realizing their own strength. You may need to bring in a trainer to get the younger dog under control. It is worth the time and effort to keep the older dog safe and happy in their senior years. In the meantime, work on the obedience commands that you have implemented for the younger dog (I think that is Nala?). Teach Nala that no means no, and do not permit her to attack the other dog. Be firm but not in anger. She really needs leadership. Group classes are an option, too, and are not expensive. Read these guides through: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-doberman-to-listen-to-you and https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-the-out-command/. I suggest that you get a dog gate to give the older dog a safe haven on the other side on the gate, but let him still see you so he doesn't feel punished. Give him a nice soft bed and safety behind the gate until you get your Mastiff under control. Look here for helpful videos: https://robertcabral.com/. All the best.

Hello Valery, I highly suggest hiring a professional trainer who specializes in aggression to help you in person. You need someone very experienced to work with you in person. Check out Jeff Gellman from solidK9training on Youtube, and Thomas from the canine educator. I would also introduce her to wearing a basket muzzle for everyone's safety while working on this issue. Done right, the muzzle doesn't have to be stressful for her. The basket type will still allow her to open her mouth while wearing it. Jeff Gellman: https://www.solidk9training.com/ Muzzle introduction video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KJTucFnmAbw&list=PLXtcKXk-QWojGYcl1NCg5UA5geEnmpx4a&index=6&t=0s Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Carina, I suggest looking for a G.R.O.W..L. class in your area, which is a class for dog reactive/aggressive dogs, where all the dogs are intensively socialized together in a structured environment while wearing basket muzzles for safety, under the guidance of the class instructor. Building pup's respect for you can also help with management. Check out the article linked below. Having pup work for life rewards like the Working method mentions, working on obedience that builds self-control - like Place, Down-Stay, Out, Wait, Heel, and Leave It, and having clear boundaries and rules that are enforced day-to-day at home - like no being pushy or demanding, no guarding things, getting off furniture or out of spaces when told to, ect... https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-doberman-to-listen-to-you Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Brandy, First of all Ophelia shouldn't be outside unless she is on a leash or in a physically fenced in yard - not an electric fence because other dogs can enter that and many aggressive dogs will bolt through them when they see another dog. The attacks are dangerous for other dogs but they are also making the problem worse for Ophelia every time that they happen - you didn't know before but now that you know tackle that first. Look online in your city and see if there is a G.R. O.W.L. Class in your area within driving distance. A growl class is a class for dog aggressive or reactive dogs who all wear muzzles during the class and are intensively socialized quickly with a trainers' help. These classes are one of the fastest ways to address most aggressive dogs' issues. If she drew blood when she attacked either dog, that is a more serious issue. If she draws blood when she attacks, then you may not be able to rehabilitate the aggression but you can work on her focus on your, her response toward other dogs while on leash, and her obedience - making her a lot safer. You can essentially get the aggression under control so that it does not impact your life as much and you can enjoy and live with her more safely, but you should never trust her off-leash with another dog. I suggest attending a G.R.O.W.L. class or hiring a trainer - dog aggression can be hard to tackle by yourself. There is a good chance she was attacked multiple times while on the street and that is the source of her aggression. The aggression could also be a genetic trait or a dominance issue. The type of aggression will partially determine how to treat it. Dominance-based aggression needs respect established without too much confrontation so that she will learn to let you handle problematic situations yourself, instead of resorting to aggression. Genetic aggression can usually only be managed not cured, but you can teach things like high-distraction "Come" and "Leave It" to call her back in emergency situations, and a high distraction "Heel" to keep her focus on you and not other dogs while walking. Fear-based aggression can be managed and you can also work on socialization and changing her emotions toward other dogs so that she doesn't feel the need to defend herself as much and is more tolerant. Fear-based aggression is easier to work with and improve than many other types...A G.R.O.W.L. class will help with that type a lot. You can also check out Jeff Gellman from SolidK9Training. He has a YouTube channel with several videos about aggression. Most of the dogs that come to him have aggression other than fear-based, look for videos where he is working with fearful aggressive dogs specifically - he will address the root cause more in those videos. He can be a bit blunt and gruff in his teaching style but he is very experienced working with highly aggressive dogs that others have not been able to help. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Paula, Unfortunately, I cannot diagnose pup's training outcome without working with you in person. However, I suggest contacting a trainer who specializes in aggression for an evaluation. Check out Solidk9training.com Often, aggression this severe cannot be gotten rid of entirely (to be able to do something like a dog park ever) but with the right training and management it likely could improve to where pup could be in the general proximity of other dogs, like on walks on leash and in certain brief unexpected situations, without you having to feel afraid. Getting to that point will probably require more in-depth training with an expert than just following this article's advice on your own though. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello. I am going to send you some training exercises you can use to help make your walks or outings a bit more peaceful. You can also apply the same methods for inside your home when you have visitors. The first step is to reframe what an oncoming dog means to your dog. From a safe distance — your dog determines the distance, not you — have your leashed dog view another dog. As the new dog comes into view, drop a lot of enticing meat treats just in front of your dog’s nose. Ignore any hysterics for now, but back up and create more space if your dog is unwilling to eat. This part is hard for humans — I understand. It helps to see your dog’s behavior for what it most likely is: fear vs. disobedience. The training reinforcer MUST be a great one, such as real meat. It is critical that the appearance of the new dog causes meat to fall from the sky. When the other dog is out of your dog’s view, all treats stop. We want your dog to predict that other dogs near him means that YUMMY FOOD will appear! As you are reframing your dog’s opinion of seeing other leashed dogs, be careful where you take your dog, and be protective of what he is exposed to. One fight can create a reactive dog. Consider not walking your dog for 30 days as you reprogram his opinions of other dogs. Instead, sit on your front porch or in your garage with your dog on leash, and practice treating every time another dog comes into your dog’s line of sight. During this time, engage your dog’s mind with mind puzzles, obedience work, and fun stuff like games in the house or yard. You know you have made great progress when your dog sees another dog, and he turns his head away from the once-threatening dog and looks into your eyes, expecting a treat. Once your dog is looking at his (former) trigger and then looking expectantly up at you for a treat, you can begin to put this skill on cue. Tell the dog, sit, "watch me" or whatever command you want to use for this exercise. Remember to go slowly. You will see a significant change in his behavior after a month of consistent practice.

Hello Gracie, First, I do suggest hiring a professional trainer to help in person with this issue. See if you can find a G.R.O.W.L. class in your area, which is a class for dog reactive/aggressive dogs. Where all the dogs wear basket muzzles and are socialized in a structured environment. I suggest working on the structure of your walk. You want pup to be working during the walk - having to stay behind you, focus on you, perform commands periodically, and not have his mind on scanning the area in search of other dogs. The walk should start with him having to exit your home very calmly, performing obedience commands at the door if he isn't calm. He should wait for permission ("Okay" or "Free" or "Let's Go") before going through the door instead of bolting through if that's an issue. When you walk he should be in the heel position - with his head behind your leg. That position decreases his arousal, reduces stress because he isn't the one in charge and the one encountering things first. It prevents him from scanning for other dogs, staring dogs down or being stared down, and ignoring you behind him. It also requires him to be in a more submissive, structured, focused, calmer mindset - which has a direct effect on how aroused, stressed, and aggressive he is - it makes him feel like the responsibility is on your shoulders not his around other dogs. Additionally, when you do pass other dogs, as soon as he starts staring them down, interrupt him. Don't tolerate challenging stares at other dogs. Remind him with a fair correction that you are leading the walk and he is not allowed to break his heel or stare another dog down. It is far easier to deal with reactivity when you interrupt a dog early in the process - before they are highly aroused and full of adrenaline and cortisol, and to keep the dog in a less aroused/calmer state to begin with. This also makes the walk more pleasant for him in the long-run. Be aware that any aggressive dog can redirect their aggression who whoever is closest when highly aroused, be careful to avoid a bite. If pup tends to redirect aggression, they may need to wear a basket muzzle while training and around other dogs also. When pup is calm, focused on you, and obedient, you can reward with a treat from a small baggie or treat bag that you carry on your person during a walk. Do not reward while tense, ignoring you, or acting aggressive - reward the attitude and behavior you want pup to give more of. Thresholds: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-w28C2g68M Heel article - The turns method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Heel Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTiKVc4ZZWo Example reactive dog - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XY8s_MlqDNE Outside of the walk you can work on building pup's trust and respect for you in other ways too. The following commands and exercises are also good for that: If nervousness is ever an issue - Agility/obstacles for building confidence: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=elvtxiDW6g0 Place: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=omg5DVPWIWo Crate manners: https://thegooddog.net/training-videos/free-how-to-training-videos/learn-to-train-the-good-dog-way-the-crate/ Thresholds: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-w28C2g68M A long down stay around distractions is a good thing to practice during walks periodically. I suggest doing the above with the help of a trainer in person. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello. I am going to send you some training exercises you can use to help make your walks or outings a bit more peaceful. The first step is to reframe what an oncoming dog means to your dog. From a safe distance — your dog determines the distance, not you — have your leashed dog view another dog. As the new dog comes into view, drop a lot of enticing meat treats just in front of your dog’s nose. Ignore any hysterics for now, but back up and create more space if your dog is unwilling to eat. This part is hard for humans — I understand. It helps to see your dog’s behavior for what it most likely is: fear vs. disobedience. The training reinforcer MUST be a great one, such as real meat. It is critical that the appearance of the new dog causes meat to fall from the sky. When the other dog is out of your dog’s view, all treats stop. We want your dog to predict that other dogs near him means that YUMMY FOOD will appear! As you are reframing your dog’s opinion of seeing other leashed dogs, be careful where you take your dog, and be protective of what he is exposed to. One fight can create a reactive dog. Consider not walking your dog for 30 days as you reprogram his opinions of other dogs. Instead, sit on your front porch or in your garage with your dog on leash, and practice treating every time another dog comes into your dog’s line of sight. During this time, engage your dog’s mind with mind puzzles, obedience work, and fun stuff like games in the house or yard. You know you have made great progress when your dog sees another dog, and he turns his head away from the once-threatening dog and looks into your eyes, expecting a treat. Once your dog is looking at his (former) trigger and then looking expectantly up at you for a treat, you can begin to put this skill on cue. Tell the dog, sit, "watch me" or whatever command you want to use for this exercise. Remember to go slowly. You will see a significant change in his behavior after a month of consistent practice.

Hello. I am going to send you some training exercises you can use to help make your walks or outings a bit more peaceful. The first step is to reframe what an oncoming dog means to your dog. From a safe distance — your dog determines the distance, not you — have your leashed dog view another dog. As the new dog comes into view, drop a lot of enticing meat treats just in front of your dog’s nose. Ignore any hysterics for now, but back up and create more space if your dog is unwilling to eat. This part is hard for humans — I understand. It helps to see your dog’s behavior for what it most likely is: fear vs. disobedience. The training reinforcer MUST be a great one, such as real meat. It is critical that the appearance of the new dog causes meat to fall from the sky. When the other dog is out of your dog’s view, all treats stop. We want your dog to predict that other dogs near him means that YUMMY FOOD will appear! As you are reframing your dog’s opinion of seeing other leashed dogs, be careful where you take your dog, and be protective of what he is exposed to. One fight can create a reactive dog. Consider not walking your dog for 30 days as you reprogram his opinions of other dogs. Instead, sit on your front porch or in your garage with your dog on leash, and practice treating every time another dog comes into your dog’s line of sight. During this time, engage your dog’s mind with mind puzzles, obedience work, and fun stuff like games in the house or yard. You know you have made great progress when your dog sees another dog, and he turns his head away from the once-threatening dog and looks into your eyes, expecting a treat. Once your dog is looking at his (former) trigger and then looking expectantly up at you for a treat, you can begin to put this skill on cue. Tell the dog, sit, "watch me" or whatever command you want to use for this exercise. Remember to go slowly. You will see a significant change in his behavior after a month of consistent practice.

Hello. I am going to send you some training exercises you can use to help make your walks or outings a bit more peaceful. The first step is to reframe what an oncoming dog means to your dog. From a safe distance — your dog determines the distance, not you — have your leashed dog view another dog. As the new dog comes into view, drop a lot of enticing meat treats just in front of your dog’s nose. Ignore any hysterics for now, but back up and create more space if your dog is unwilling to eat. This part is hard for humans — I understand. It helps to see your dog’s behavior for what it most likely is: fear vs. disobedience. The training reinforcer MUST be a great one, such as real meat. It is critical that the appearance of the new dog causes meat to fall from the sky. When the other dog is out of your dog’s view, all treats stop. We want your dog to predict that other dogs near him means that YUMMY FOOD will appear! As you are reframing your dog’s opinion of seeing other leashed dogs, be careful where you take your dog, and be protective of what he is exposed to. One fight can create a reactive dog. Consider not walking your dog for 30 days as you reprogram his opinions of other dogs. Instead, sit on your front porch or in your garage with your dog on leash, and practice treating every time another dog comes into your dog’s line of sight. During this time, engage your dog’s mind with mind puzzles, obedience work, and fun stuff like games in the house or yard. You know you have made great progress when your dog sees another dog, and he turns his head away from the once-threatening dog and looks into your eyes, expecting a treat. Once your dog is looking at his (former) trigger and then looking expectantly up at you for a treat, you can begin to put this skill on cue. Tell the dog, sit, "watch me" or whatever command you want to use for this exercise. Remember to go slowly. You will see a significant change in his behavior after a month of consistent practice.

Hello. I am going to send you some training exercises you can use to help make your walks or outings a bit more peaceful. You can also apply the same methods for inside your home when you have visitors, or apply this to any other potential trigger. The first step is to reframe what an oncoming dog means to your dog. From a safe distance — your dog determines the distance, not you — have your leashed dog view another dog. As the new dog comes into view, drop a lot of enticing meat treats just in front of your dog’s nose. Ignore any hysterics for now, but back up and create more space if your dog is unwilling to eat. This part is hard for humans — I understand. It helps to see your dog’s behavior for what it most likely is: fear vs. disobedience. The training reinforcer MUST be a great one, such as real meat. It is critical that the appearance of the new dog causes meat to fall from the sky. When the other dog is out of your dog’s view, all treats stop. We want your dog to predict that other dogs near him means that YUMMY FOOD will appear! As you are reframing your dog’s opinion of seeing other leashed dogs, be careful where you take your dog, and be protective of what he is exposed to. One fight can create a reactive dog. Consider not walking your dog for 30 days as you reprogram his opinions of other dogs. Instead, sit on your front porch or in your garage with your dog on leash, and practice treating every time another dog comes into your dog’s line of sight. During this time, engage your dog’s mind with mind puzzles, obedience work, and fun stuff like games in the house or yard. You know you have made great progress when your dog sees another dog, and he turns his head away from the once-threatening dog and looks into your eyes, expecting a treat. Once your dog is looking at his (former) trigger and then looking expectantly up at you for a treat, you can begin to put this skill on cue. Tell the dog, sit, "watch me" or whatever command you want to use for this exercise. Remember to go slowly. You will see a significant change in his behavior after a month of consistent practice.

Hello Sweet, I suggest working on a high level Come command. Some dogs naturally become more highly aroused or have more prey drive. These traits tend to be genetic, so I recommend working on a high level of off leash obedience to make it more manageable. If you are going place like the dog park, your dog is also likely a dog who simply needs to not go there due to highly arousing, competitive, unstructured nature of a dog park. That type of environment can actually make the behavior get worse. Instead, look for things like canine sports and group dog walks or hikes to join through local obedience clubs, rescues, meetup.com, and friend groups. Reel In method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-whippet-to-recall Premack Principle and entire article: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/train-dog-to-come-when-called/ Out: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-the-out-command/ Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Karen, I suggest looking for a G.R.O.W.L. class in your area, which is a class for dog reactive/aggressive dogs. All the dogs in that class wear basket muzzles and are intensively socialized together in a structured environment over the course of the class, to help dogs overcome their issues more quickly with the trainer's guidance. Check out the video linked below for how to introduce the muzzle in a more fun way. Most dogs will need this training broken up into several sessions over the course of the week. Muzzle introduction video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KJTucFnmAbw&list=PLXtcKXk-QWojGYcl1NCg5UA5geEnmpx4a&index=6&t=0s If you cannot find a G.R.O.W.L. class, I do suggest hiring a professional trainer who specializes in aggression and has well behaved dogs to practice introductions and desensitization with. The training will likely still involve a muzzle. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello! Your dog needs to learn new behaviors to quell his fear. First we reduce his fear around new dogs, and then we begin adding cues such as “watch me” or “sit.” Research tells us that most leash reactivity is caused by fear, not by aggression. Dogs bark and lunge at other dogs to warn, “Go away! Go away!” Dogs fear other dogs because of genetic reasons, lack of socialization, fights when they were puppies, or any scary (to the dog) interaction with other dogs. Sometimes having low thyroid levels contributes to unwanted canine behavior. During this time, avoid any punishment for reactivity. Doing so will make her concerns even bigger. Dogs learn by making associations, and you want your dog to associate other dogs with pleasant things — never punishment. The first step is to reframe what an oncoming dog means to your dog. From a safe distance — your dog determines the distance, not you — have your leashed dog view another dog. As the new dog comes into view, drop a lot of enticing meat treats just in front of your dog’s nose. Ignore any hysterics for now, but back up and create more space if your dog is unwilling to eat. This part is hard for humans — I understand. It helps to see your dog’s behavior for what it most likely is: fear vs. disobedience. The training reinforcer MUST be a great one, such as real meat. It is critical that the appearance of the new dog causes meat to fall from the sky. When the other dog is out of your dog’s view, all treats stop. We want your dog to predict that other dogs near him means that YUMMY FOOD will appear! As you are reframing your dog’s opinion of seeing other leashed dogs, be careful where you take your dog, and be protective of what she is exposed to. One fight can create a reactive dog. Consider not walking your dog for 30 days as you reprogram her opinions of other dogs. Instead, sit on your front porch or in your garage (or somewhere out of the way if those two options aren't possible) with your dog on leash, and practice treating every time another dog comes into your dog’s line of sight. During this time, engage your dog’s mind with mind puzzles, obedience work, and fun stuff like games in the house or yard. You know you have made great progress when your dog sees another dog, and he turns his head away from the once-threatening dog and looks into your eyes, expecting a treat. Once your dog is looking at his (former) trigger and then looking expectantly up at you for a treat, you can begin to put this skill on cue. Tell your dog "watch me" every time you see another dog approaching. Your end goal is for your dog to see another dog, and remain calm, looking at you for guidance. And this will be either continuing your walk, or being allowed to interact with the other dog. Please let me know if you have additional questions. Thanks for writing in!

Hello Shyann, If you feel overwhelmed, things are getting worse, or there is another bite, then I would seek professional help. Aggression is something best addressed immediately or it can get worse, so if you feel good about working through it yourself you can try the below suggestions, but if you are not seeing improvement or feel overwhelmed by it, then you may want to hire someone who is very experienced with aggression to come to your home and help one-on-one with you (obedience classes aren't enough - you need someone who has a lot of experience with behavior issues to address it with the dogs and teach you how to manage it in real time). In the very least, your older dog may need to be desensitized to wearing a basket muzzle, and wear that around puppy right now, until they are doing well together. Work on taking the pressure off of both dogs to be in charge and in control by mediating situations for them, work on commands that improve calmness and self-control, and make and enforce the rules so that the dogs are not working it out themselves - you are telling them how to react and behavior in a calm but firm way. I suggest teaching all the dogs Out (which means leave the area) and Place - which is similar to Stay but on a certain spot and they can sit, stand, or lie down but can't get off the spot. Practicing Place with the dogs in the same room on separate place beds can help facilitate calmness around each other and respect for you. Out is great for giving direction and giving a consequence of leaving the room when there is pushiness or mild resource guarding. Out command: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-the-out-command/ Place: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=omg5DVPWIWo I also suggest crate training both dogs so that they can have a calm place to chew on a chew toy away from each other when things are tense, or one dog is pestering the other, or you are not home to supervise while they are still getting to know each other. Crate training is an important potty training and safety measure for a young pup also. An open crate while you are home can also serve as an additional Place to practice, and feeding both dogs in separate locked crates can prevent food resource guarding and remove stress around mealtimes! Crate Manners - great calmness and gentle respect building exercise : https://thegooddog.net/training-videos/free-how-to-training-videos/learn-to-train-the-good-dog-way-the-crate/ Surprise method - for introducing crate for first time: https://wagwalking.com/training/like-a-crate Decide what your house rules are for the dogs and you be the one to enforce the rules instead of the dogs. No aggression, no pushiness, no stealing toys, no stealing food, no being possessive of people or things, or any other unwanted behavior - if one dog is causing a problem, you be the one to enforce the rules so that the dogs are NOT working it out themselves. For example, if pup comes over to your other dog when she is trying to sleep, tell pup Out. If she obeys, praise and reward her. If she disobeys, stand in front of your other dog, blocking the pup from getting to her, and walk toward pup calmly but firmly until pup leaves the area and stops trying to go back to your other dog. If your older dog pushes pup or gets between you and pup uninvited, tell your older dog Out and enforce her leaving. When she is waiting for her turn patiently, then send pup to place and invite Abby over - no demanding of attention right now from either dog. Make them wait or do a command first to work for your attention if pushiness is an issue, and make them leave if being pushy or aggressive. If your older dog growls at pup, make your older dog leave the room while also carefully disciplining pup if pup antagonized her. Be vigilant and take the pressure off of your dogs - you want them to learn to look to you when there is a problem, and for them to learn respect for each other because you have taught it to them and not because they have used aggression. When pup first enters the room, give your older dog a treat without pup seeing so pup is associated with good things for your older dog - treats stop when pup leaves. When your older dog is being calm, tolerant, and friendly without acting dominant and pushy toward pup, you can also calmly give a treat. Keep the energy calm when interacting with the dogs. Don't feel sorry for either dog but give clear boundaries instead. Don't expect them to be best friends right now - the goal is calm co-existence. When puppy matures and they have learned good manners around each other, they may decide to be friends as adults, but calmness, tolerance, and co-existence comes first. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello! Your dog needs to learn new behaviors to quell her fear. First we reduce her fear around new dogs, and then we begin adding cues such as “watch me” or “sit.” Research tells us that most leash reactivity is caused by fear, not by aggression. Dogs bark and lunge at other dogs to warn, “Go away! Go away!” Dogs fear other dogs because of genetic reasons, lack of socialization, fights when they were puppies, or any scary (to the dog) interaction with other dogs. Sometimes having low thyroid levels contributes to unwanted canine behavior. During this time, avoid any punishment for reactivity. Doing so will make her concerns even bigger. Dogs learn by making associations, and you want your dog to associate other dogs with pleasant things — never punishment. The first step is to reframe what an oncoming dog means to your dog. From a safe distance — your dog determines the distance, not you — have your leashed dog view another dog. As the new dog comes into view, drop a lot of enticing meat treats just in front of your dog’s nose. Ignore any hysterics for now, but back up and create more space if your dog is unwilling to eat. This part is hard for humans — I understand. It helps to see your dog’s behavior for what it most likely is: fear vs. disobedience. The training reinforcer MUST be a great one, such as real meat. It is critical that the appearance of the new dog causes meat to fall from the sky. When the other dog is out of your dog’s view, all treats stop. We want your dog to predict that other dogs near him means that YUMMY FOOD will appear! As you are reframing your dog’s opinion of seeing other leashed dogs, be careful where you take your dog, and be protective of what she is exposed to. One fight can create a reactive dog. Consider not walking your dog for 30 days as you reprogram her opinions of other dogs. Instead, sit on your front porch or in your garage (or somewhere out of the way if those two options aren't possible) with your dog on leash, and practice treating every time another dog comes into your dog’s line of sight. During this time, engage your dog’s mind with mind puzzles, obedience work, and fun stuff like games in the house or yard. You know you have made great progress when your dog sees another dog, and he turns his head away from the once-threatening dog and looks into your eyes, expecting a treat. Once your dog is looking at his (former) trigger and then looking expectantly up at you for a treat, you can begin to put this skill on cue. Tell your dog "watch me" every time you see another dog approaching. Your end goal is for your dog to see another dog, and remain calm, looking at you for guidance. And this will be either continuing your walk, or being allowed to interact with the other dog. Please let me know if you have additional questions. Thanks for writing in!

Hi there. Your best bet is to start with the visitors coming in your home. Then you can transfer the skills he has learned to outdoors when you are walking. You won’t be able to solve your dog’s overprotective behavior in one day. In the meantime, you don’t want to put your life on hold. You can still invite guests into your home as long as you prioritize managing your dog’s behavior. You’ll need a short-term strategy to start showing your overprotective dog what behavior is unacceptable while also keeping your guests safe. There are a few ways to do this. Leash: Keeping your dog on a leash while friends are visiting gives you control over your dog’s actions. Leash him up before the doorbell rings and keep him close as you greet your guests. During the visit, you can let the leash drag and only use it if you have to. Muzzle: If you feel his behavior warrants the use of a muzzle for the time being while you work on solving this problem, then it may be a wise choice. Separate Room: Your dog won’t get better without practice, but sometimes you have to weigh the risks versus rewards. If your overprotective dog is in the beginning stages of training, keeping him separated from guests might be best. You don’t want to put a friend’s safety at risk or needlessly stress out your dog. As long as you keep working toward stopping the behavior, separating an overprotective dog from company is a temporary management solution. Start Obedience Training Obedience training is a must for every dog, and it’s especially important for overprotective dogs. Working with your dog on things like “sit-stay,” “down-stay,” and “heel,” will help build his impulse control. He’ll start seeing you as a capable leader and will turn to you for guidance. A mistake many pup parents make is stopping obedience training once their dog masters the basics skills. Being well-trained is about more than knowing how to sit when a person holds a treat in front of their face. It’s a lifetime lesson, and even senior dogs need regular training. Commit to training your dog several times a day for short periods of time. Make Your Dog Work for Affection You can’t help but smother your dog with love every time he’s within petting distance, but that isn’t always what’s best for him. He will start to feel entitled to your attention, and that’s part of the problem. To remedy this, initiate a “work for it” program that allows you to show your dog affection as long as he earns your attention in appropriate ways. Make him sit, stay calm, and do whatever else you ask before doling out whatever it is he wants. If he’s excited for dinner, make him sit and leave it before digging in. If he wants in your lap, ask him to do a trick first. Never give your dog attention if he rudely nudges your hand or barks in your face. He needs to know polite behavior, and polite behavior only, is how he gets what he wants. You ignore everything else. Involve Other People in the Dog’s Life Most overprotective dogs choose to guard only the person they feel closest to. It’s usually the same person who fills their food bowls, takes them on walks, and handles training. They become obsessively attached, and a strong bond gradually mutates into overprotective behavior. Putting some space between you and your dog will help him learn to trust other people. Enlist the entire family’s help and take a step back in your role as primary caregiver. Have someone else feed the dog a few times a week, and encourage other people to engage her in playtime. This will help him be more comfortable with different people. Socialize Socialization is best done during the puppy stages, but even adult and senior dogs benefit from new experiences. Exposing your overprotective dog to new places, experiences, and people, will help him learn that not everyone is out to hurt you. Make sure each new experience is positive, and encourage your dog without forcing him to interact. If your dog is afraid, you don’t want to make things worse. Take socialization at the pace he’s comfortable with. If he seems overwhelmed, back up and try something a little smaller. These are some general ideas and they can be modified to fit your dynamic. These behaviors do take time, I am talking months, to correct. And sometimes the behaviors get worse before they get better. So just push through that time if that starts to happen. Please let me know if you have any additional questions. Thank you for writing in!

Hello! It sounds like he has some excitement based anxiety going on. Your dog needs to learn new behaviors to quell his reactions to other dogs or people. First we reduce his excitement around people on walks, and then we begin adding cues such as “watch me” or “sit.” Keep in mind before starting, that punishing him while he's in this state of emotion isn't ideal. Doing so will make his concerns even bigger. Dogs learn by making associations, and you want your dog to associate strangers with pleasant things — never punishment. The first step is to reframe what a stranger means to your dog. From a safe distance — your dog determines the distance, not you — have your leashed dog view another dog. As someone comes into view, drop a lot of enticing meat treats just in front of your dog’s nose. Ignore any hysterics for now, but back up and create more space if your dog is unwilling to eat. This part is hard for humans — I understand. It helps to see your dog’s behavior for what it most likely is: excitement vs. disobedience. The training reinforcer MUST be a great one, such as real meat. It is critical that the appearance of the stranger causes meat to fall from the sky. When the stranger is out of your dog’s view, all treats stop. We want your dog to predict that other dogs near him means that YUMMY FOOD will appear! Consider not walking your dog for 30 days as you reprogram his opinions of strangers. Instead, sit on your front porch or in your garage with your dog on leash, and practice treating every time someone comes into your dog’s line of sight. During this time, engage your dog’s mind with mind puzzles, obedience work, and fun stuff like games in the house or yard. You know you have made great progress when your dog sees a stranger, and he turns his head away from the once-threatening or excitable person and looks into your eyes, expecting a treat. Once your dog is looking at his (former) trigger and then looking expectantly up at you for a treat, you can begin to put this skill on cue. Tell the dog, "sit" or "watch me" or whatever command you want to use for this setting. After he starts automatically sitting or watching you when he sees a stranger approaching, you know you have success! Remember to go slowly! It could take up to a month or longer of consistent practice before you see an improvement with his behavior.

Hello Mesha, Do you know how pup does with dogs up close or off-leash? (If not I don't recommend finding out without professional help). This type of aggression can either be related to general aggression toward other dogs, or specific to being on leash - called leash reactivity, where the dog reacts aggressively on leash but is fine up close or off-leash with other dogs. I recommend working with a professional trainer who specializes in behavior issues on something like the following. I suggest working on the structure of your walk first. You want pup to be working during the walk - having to stay behind you, focus on you, perform commands periodically, and not have his mind on scanning the area in search of other dogs. The walk should start with him having to exit your home very calmly, performing obedience commands at the door if he isn't calm. He should wait for permission ("Okay" or "Free" or "Let's Go") before going through the door instead of bolting through if that's an issue. When you walk he should be in the heel position - with his head behind your leg. That position decreases his arousal, reduces stress because he isn't the one in charge and the one encountering things first. It prevents him from scanning for other dogs, staring dogs down or being stared down, and ignoring you behind him. It also requires him to be in a more submissive, structured, focused, calmer mindset - which has a direct effect on how aroused, stressed, and aggressive he is - it makes him feel like the responsibility is on your shoulders not his around other dogs. Additionally, when you do pass other dogs, as soon as he starts staring them down, interrupt him. Don't tolerate challenging stares at other dogs. Remind him with a fair correction that you are leading the walk and he is not allowed to break his heel or stare another dog down. It is far easier to deal with reactivity when you interrupt a dog early in the process - before they are highly aroused and full of adrenaline and cortisol, and to keep the dog in a less aroused/calmer state to begin with. This also makes the walk more pleasant for him in the long-run. Leading the walk this way can actually boost a dog's confidence in the long run around other dogs because the dog feels like you will handle the situation so they can relax. Thresholds: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-w28C2g68M Heel article - The turns method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Heel Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTiKVc4ZZWo Reactive dog: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XY8s_MlqDNE Once pup is doing better, also reward pup for calmness by carrying treats with you and giving it to pup as they respond calmly, focus on you, and generally do well; don't reward only not lunging and barking but pup still being on edge and aggressive in more subtle ways - you want to reward true calmness to condition that emotional response. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Courtney, I recommend looking for a G.R.O.W.L. class in your area. Which is a class for dog reactive/aggressive dogs, who are intensively socialized together in a structured environment while wearing basket muzzles, which are introduced ahead of time. Muzzle introduction video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KJTucFnmAbw&list=PLXtcKXk-QWojGYcl1NCg5UA5geEnmpx4a&index=6&t=0s I also recommend practicing the Passing Approach and Walking Together methods from the article linked below with lots of different friends and their well socialized dogs, one at a time if pup is safe enough to walk with another dog - if not wait until pup is doing better after a G.R.O.W.L. class then you can continue their socialization with walks. https://wagwalking.com/training/greet-other-dogs Finally, advocate for your dog also. Your dog has a low-tolerance for other dogs right now it sounds like, and dogs who are challenging, trying to dominate, or acting really pushy and rude around your dog are very hard for them to handle. Try to pursue environments where pup can be around other dogs with more calmness and structure - like obedience classes, one on one play dates, group dog walks and hikes, ect...opposed to places like a dog park where things are highly aroused and pup is likely to be challenged or harassed (You didn't say you are going to a dog park, but use that as an example - for some dogs dog parks are fine, but for others that type of environment can make things worse). Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello! It sounds like you have your hands full. This can sometimes be a typical adult behavior problem with Golden's that people don't say enough about. They seem to be the perfect family or sporting dog, and somewhere along the lines, they can suffer from pretty severe aggression issues. It sounds like she has some territorial aggression going on. Protective yes, but territorial in the sense that she is guarding herself and her items. Because this behavior is complex, I am going to send you a link to a really good article that I send my personal customers. It is backed with background information and tons of solutions. I hope this gives you insight and helps you. https://www.petplace.com/article/dogs/pet-behavior-training/inter-dog-territorial-aggression/

Hello Amanda, Since Stella has warmed up to a few dogs overtime, it might be possible to add another dog, but it would take a high level of management in the home, to ensure everyone was safe, especially during the first year while the dogs are adjusting to each other. Ideally, there would be a dog that you could practice regular heeling walks with overtime to see if they could get along and get used to each other, before trying them in the home together. The Passing Approach and Walking Together methods is how that would generally be done, but it would be through frequent walks over a 2-4 weeks at least. Very slowly closing the distance between them as they both were truly relaxed around each other. Once in the home together, both would need to be crate trained and to know a solid 1-2 hour place command. Life would need to be very structured and dogs played with and fed separately, to avoid competition early on. Basically home would be very obedience class-like when they were together, to prevent potential fights. It would also depend on the temperament of the other dog/puppy. You would want a well balanced dog who was neither overly dominant/pushy, nor timid/shy. A pup who is fairly adaptable, amiable and medium energy/dominance to increase their chances of getting along. A shy pup is more likely to be picked on by your dog, and a dominant one lead to clashes. Essentially, there is a good chance you could add a second dog if it was the right dog, but you won't be able to just throw them together like another dog could handle. It would take work, obedience, and a lot of structure and supervision for a while. A basket muzzle would probably be involved some for safety too when they were off leash. A muzzle could be introduced ahead of time with treats to make it normal for your dog and not a source of stress - silicone basket muzzles are what I generally recommend for comfort. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello! Your dog needs to learn new behaviors to quell her fear. First we reduce her fear around new dogs, and then we begin adding cues such as “watch me” or “sit.” Research tells us that most leash reactivity is caused by fear, not by aggression. Dogs bark and lunge at other dogs to warn, “Go away! Go away!” Dogs fear other dogs because of genetic reasons, lack of socialization, fights when they were puppies, or any scary (to the dog) interaction with other dogs. Sometimes having low thyroid levels contributes to unwanted canine behavior. During this time, avoid any punishment for reactivity. Doing so will make her concerns even bigger. Dogs learn by making associations, and you want your dog to associate other dogs with pleasant things — never punishment. The first step is to reframe what an oncoming dog means to your dog. From a safe distance — your dog determines the distance, not you — have your leashed dog view another dog. As the new dog comes into view, drop a lot of enticing meat treats just in front of your dog’s nose. Ignore any hysterics for now, but back up and create more space if your dog is unwilling to eat. This part is hard for humans — I understand. It helps to see your dog’s behavior for what it most likely is: fear vs. disobedience. The training reinforcer MUST be a great one, such as real meat. It is critical that the appearance of the new dog causes meat to fall from the sky. When the other dog is out of your dog’s view, all treats stop. We want your dog to predict that other dogs near him means that YUMMY FOOD will appear! As you are reframing your dog’s opinion of seeing other leashed dogs, be careful where you take your dog, and be protective of what she is exposed to. One fight can create a reactive dog. Consider not walking your dog for 30 days as you reprogram her opinions of other dogs. Instead, sit on your front porch or in your garage (or somewhere out of the way if those two options aren't possible) with your dog on leash, and practice treating every time another dog comes into your dog’s line of sight. During this time, engage your dog’s mind with mind puzzles, obedience work, and fun stuff like games in the house or yard. You know you have made great progress when your dog sees another dog, and he turns his head away from the once-threatening dog and looks into your eyes, expecting a treat. Once your dog is looking at her (former) trigger and then looking expectantly up at you for a treat, you can begin to put this skill on cue. Tell your dog "watch me" every time you see another dog approaching. Your end goal is for your dog to see another dog, and remain calm, looking at you for guidance. And this will be either continuing your walk, or being allowed to interact with the other dog. Please let me know if you have additional questions. Thanks for writing in!

Hello! Your dog needs to learn new behaviors to quell her fear. First we reduce her fear around new dogs, and then we begin adding cues such as “watch me” or “sit.” Research tells us that most leash reactivity is caused by fear, not by aggression. Dogs bark and lunge at other dogs to warn, “Go away! Go away!” Dogs fear other dogs because of genetic reasons, lack of socialization, fights when they were puppies, or any scary (to the dog) interaction with other dogs. Sometimes having low thyroid levels contributes to unwanted canine behavior. During this time, avoid any punishment for reactivity. Doing so will make her concerns even bigger. Dogs learn by making associations, and you want your dog to associate other dogs with pleasant things — never punishment. The first step is to reframe what an oncoming dog means to your dog. From a safe distance — your dog determines the distance, not you — have your leashed dog view another dog. As the new dog comes into view, drop a lot of enticing meat treats just in front of your dog’s nose. Ignore any hysterics for now, but back up and create more space if your dog is unwilling to eat. This part is hard for humans — I understand. It helps to see your dog’s behavior for what it most likely is: fear vs. disobedience. The training reinforcer MUST be a great one, such as real meat. It is critical that the appearance of the new dog causes meat to fall from the sky. When the other dog is out of your dog’s view, all treats stop. We want your dog to predict that other dogs near him means that YUMMY FOOD will appear! As you are reframing your dog’s opinion of seeing other leashed dogs, be careful where you take your dog, and be protective of what she is exposed to. One fight can create a reactive dog. Consider not walking your dog for 30 days as you reprogram her opinions of other dogs. Instead, sit on your front porch or in your garage (or somewhere out of the way if those two options aren't possible) with your dog on leash, and practice treating every time another dog comes into your dog’s line of sight. During this time, engage your dog’s mind with mind puzzles, obedience work, and fun stuff like games in the house or yard. You know you have made great progress when your dog sees another dog, and he turns his head away from the once-threatening dog and looks into your eyes, expecting a treat. Once your dog is looking at her (former) trigger and then looking expectantly up at you for a treat, you can begin to put this skill on cue. Tell your dog "watch me" every time you see another dog approaching. Your end goal is for your dog to see another dog, and remain calm, looking at you for guidance. And this will be either continuing your walk, or being allowed to interact with the other dog. Please let me know if you have additional questions. Thanks for writing in!

Hello! Your dog needs to learn new behaviors to quell her fear. First we reduce her fear around new dogs, and then we begin adding cues such as “watch me” or “sit.” Research tells us that most leash reactivity is caused by fear, not by aggression. Dogs bark and lunge at other dogs to warn, “Go away! Go away!” Dogs fear other dogs because of genetic reasons, lack of socialization, fights when they were puppies, or any scary (to the dog) interaction with other dogs. Sometimes having low thyroid levels contributes to unwanted canine behavior. During this time, avoid any punishment for reactivity. Doing so will make her concerns even bigger. Dogs learn by making associations, and you want your dog to associate other dogs with pleasant things — never punishment. The first step is to reframe what an oncoming dog means to your dog. From a safe distance — your dog determines the distance, not you — have your leashed dog view another dog. As the new dog comes into view, drop a lot of enticing meat treats just in front of your dog’s nose. Ignore any hysterics for now, but back up and create more space if your dog is unwilling to eat. This part is hard for humans — I understand. It helps to see your dog’s behavior for what it most likely is: fear vs. disobedience. The training reinforcer MUST be a great one, such as real meat. It is critical that the appearance of the new dog causes meat to fall from the sky. When the other dog is out of your dog’s view, all treats stop. We want your dog to predict that other dogs near him means that YUMMY FOOD will appear! As you are reframing your dog’s opinion of seeing other leashed dogs, be careful where you take your dog, and be protective of what she is exposed to. One fight can create a reactive dog. Consider not walking your dog for 30 days as you reprogram her opinions of other dogs. Instead, sit on your front porch or in your garage (or somewhere out of the way if those two options aren't possible) with your dog on leash, and practice treating every time another dog comes into your dog’s line of sight. During this time, engage your dog’s mind with mind puzzles, obedience work, and fun stuff like games in the house or yard. You know you have made great progress when your dog sees another dog, and he turns his head away from the once-threatening dog and looks into your eyes, expecting a treat. Once your dog is looking at her (former) trigger and then looking expectantly up at you for a treat, you can begin to put this skill on cue. Tell your dog "watch me" every time you see another dog approaching. Your end goal is for your dog to see another dog, and remain calm, looking at you for guidance. And this will be either continuing your walk, or being allowed to interact with the other dog. Please let me know if you have additional questions. Thanks for writing in!

Hello! Your dog needs to learn new behaviors to quell her fear. First we reduce her fear around new dogs, and then we begin adding cues such as “watch me” or “sit.” Research tells us that most reactivity is caused by fear, not by aggression. Dogs bark and lunge at other dogs to warn, “Go away! Go away!” Dogs fear other dogs because of genetic reasons, lack of socialization, fights when they were puppies, or any scary (to the dog) interaction with other dogs. Sometimes having low thyroid levels contributes to unwanted canine behavior. During this time, avoid any punishment for reactivity. Doing so will make her concerns even bigger. Dogs learn by making associations, and you want your dog to associate other dogs with pleasant things — never punishment. The first step is to reframe what an oncoming dog means to your dog. From a safe distance — your dog determines the distance, not you — have your leashed dog view another dog. As the new dog comes into view, drop a lot of enticing meat treats just in front of your dog’s nose. So you will have to set this up in your back yard with her on leash and hope for dogs to come by. Ignore any hysterics for now, but back up and create more space if your dog is unwilling to eat. This part is hard for humans — I understand. It helps to see your dog’s behavior for what it most likely is: fear vs. disobedience. The training reinforcer MUST be a great one, such as real meat. It is critical that the appearance of the new dog causes meat to fall from the sky. When the other dog is out of your dog’s view, all treats stop. We want your dog to predict that other dogs near him means that YUMMY FOOD will appear! As you are reframing your dog’s opinion of seeing other leashed dogs, be careful where you take your dog, and be protective of what she is exposed to. One fight can create a reactive dog. Consider not walking your dog for 30 days as you reprogram her opinions of other dogs. Instead, sit on your front porch or in your garage (or somewhere out of the way if those two options aren't possible) with your dog on leash, and practice treating every time another dog comes into your dog’s line of sight. During this time, engage your dog’s mind with mind puzzles, obedience work, and fun stuff like games in the house or yard. You know you have made great progress when your dog sees another dog, and he turns his head away from the once-threatening dog and looks into your eyes, expecting a treat. Once your dog is looking at her (former) trigger and then looking expectantly up at you for a treat, you can begin to put this skill on cue. Tell your dog "watch me" every time you see another dog approaching. Your end goal is for your dog to see another dog, and remain calm, looking at you for guidance. And this will be either continuing your walk, or being allowed to interact with the other dog. Please let me know if you have additional questions. Thanks for writing in!

Hello Breyana, Do you know how she does with other dogs? Is she dog aggressive in general, or is the behavior just with your other dog? I would hire a professional trainer who specializes in behavior issues like aggression to work with you in person, coming to your home to work with the dogs together. If she is aggressive in general, a G.R.O.W.L. class may help with the general dog aggression by working on socialization skills with other dogs. I would work with a trainer for specifics, but start by giving a lot of structure to both dogs, especially Cha Cha. Check out the article linked below. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-doberman-to-listen-to-you I would start teaching commands that can help with management, like Heel, Place, Out, and Leave It. As well as crate training Cha Cha if they aren't already, and crating when you can't supervise the dogs together. Crate Training: https://wagwalking.com/training/like-a-crate/ Place: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O75dyWITP1s Thresholds: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-w28C2g68M Out - which means leave the area: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-the-out-command/ Leave It method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite If there is resource guarding going on, you will need to work on counter conditioning Cha Cha to your other dog being around when they have something they are trying to guard. This is generally done using food rewards, safety measure like leashes, and enough distance that you can get a good response out of Cha Cha and slowly decrease distance as they improve. I would definitely do this part with your trainer. Not on your own. You also need to dogs observed together, to see if your current dog is doing anything to subtly instigate a fight also - like staring Cha Cha down, standing over Cha Cha, guarding things, or generally challenging or intimidating Cha Cha in some other way. If they are, you will need to work with your other dog on their behavior also. Overall I would hire someone highly experienced with aggression, to at least evaluate the dogs together and perhaps give you an idea of how complicated of an issue this is or not. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello, it is good that the rescue is honest about Bruno's personality. You have to consider what you are getting into, and make sure that you are ready for the challenges. If you have a large yard as well as a place to safely take Bruno on outings (not around other dogs for now) then you should be able to work things out. Call a trainer in your area used to working with dogs who are aggressive with other dogs to get their input. Discuss the training options they can offer. I recommend that if you adopt Bruno, that you enroll him in training and work through many levels (his keen brain needs the mental and physical stimulation that training brings). Read up a lot on the breed and get ready for plenty of walks - this will be good for both you and Bruno. All the best!

Hello Robyn, It sounds like one or both dogs are actually possessive of you and your daughter - which is when a dog is resource guarding like they would with food or a bone, but the thing they think they own and are guarding is a person. I would hire a professional trainer to help you with this in person. Look for someone who specializes in behavior issues like aggression and resource guarding. I would also desensitize both dogs to wearing a basket muzzle for everyone's safety. The training will probably involve helping the dogs associate each other with good things again, while also building their respect for you and your daughter so there is less guarding, and giving a lot more structure and boundaries - a 2 hour place command, crate training if not already done, heel, directional commands - having pups work for everything they get for a while and be very structured at home. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello! Excitement can sometimes be fear based. And based on your description, it does sound a little bit like anxiety and he just doesn't quite know how to communicate! Your dog needs to learn new behaviors to quell his fear. First we reduce his fear around new dogs, and then we begin adding cues such as “watch me” or “sit.” Research tells us that most leash reactivity is caused by fear, not by aggression. Dogs bark and lunge at other dogs to warn, “Go away! Go away!” Dogs fear other dogs because of genetic reasons, lack of socialization, fights when they were puppies, or any scary (to the dog) interaction with other dogs. Sometimes having low thyroid levels contributes to unwanted canine behavior. During this time, avoid any punishment for reactivity. Doing so will make his concerns even bigger. Dogs learn by making associations, and you want your dog to associate other dogs with pleasant things — never punishment. The first step is to reframe what an oncoming dog means to your dog. From a safe distance — your dog determines the distance, not you — have your leashed dog view another dog. As the new dog comes into view, drop a lot of enticing meat treats just in front of your dog’s nose. Ignore any hysterics for now, but back up and create more space if your dog is unwilling to eat. This part is hard for humans — I understand. It helps to see your dog’s behavior for what it most likely is: fear vs. disobedience. The training reinforcer MUST be a great one, such as real meat. It is critical that the appearance of the new dog causes meat to fall from the sky. When the other dog is out of your dog’s view, all treats stop. We want your dog to predict that other dogs near him means that YUMMY FOOD will appear! As you are reframing your dog’s opinion of seeing other leashed dogs, be careful where you take your dog, and be protective of what she is exposed to. One fight can create a reactive dog. Consider not walking your dog for 30 days as you reprogram his opinions of other dogs. Instead, sit on your front porch or in your garage (or somewhere out of the way if those two options aren't possible) with your dog on leash, and practice treating every time another dog comes into your dog’s line of sight. During this time, engage your dog’s mind with mind puzzles, obedience work, and fun stuff like games in the house or yard. You know you have made great progress when your dog sees another dog, and he turns his head away from the once-threatening dog and looks into your eyes, expecting a treat. Once your dog is looking at his (former) trigger and then looking expectantly up at you for a treat, you can begin to put this skill on cue. Tell your dog "watch me" every time you see another dog approaching. Your end goal is for your dog to see another dog, and remain calm, looking at you for guidance. And this will be either continuing your walk, or being allowed to interact with the other dog. Please let me know if you have additional questions. Thanks for writing in!

Hello Blesangeline, I recommend teaching pup the Leave it command. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite Out - which means leave the area https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-the-out-command/ I also recommend looking for opportunities to socialize pup with other puppies through puppy play. https://www.petful.com/behaviors/puppy-classes-when-to-start/ You van download the free pdf ebook After you Gey Your Puppy below, for more information of socializing and raising pup to be well mannered and friendly later. www.lifedogtraining.com/freedownloads Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello! Your dog needs to learn new behaviors to quell her fear. First we reduce her fear around new dogs, and then we begin adding cues such as “watch me” or “sit.” Research tells us that most leash reactivity is caused by fear, not by aggression. Dogs bark and lunge at other dogs to warn, “Go away! Go away!” Dogs fear other dogs because of genetic reasons, lack of socialization, fights when they were puppies, or any scary (to the dog) interaction with other dogs. Sometimes having low thyroid levels contributes to unwanted canine behavior. During this time, avoid any punishment for reactivity. Doing so will make her concerns even bigger. Dogs learn by making associations, and you want your dog to associate other dogs with pleasant things — never punishment. The first step is to reframe what an oncoming dog means to your dog. From a safe distance — your dog determines the distance, not you — have your leashed dog view another dog. As the new dog comes into view, drop a lot of enticing meat treats just in front of your dog’s nose. Ignore any hysterics for now, but back up and create more space if your dog is unwilling to eat. This part is hard for humans — I understand. It helps to see your dog’s behavior for what it most likely is: fear vs. disobedience. The training reinforcer MUST be a great one, such as real meat. It is critical that the appearance of the new dog causes meat to fall from the sky. When the other dog is out of your dog’s view, all treats stop. We want your dog to predict that other dogs near him means that YUMMY FOOD will appear! As you are reframing your dog’s opinion of seeing other leashed dogs, be careful where you take your dog, and be protective of what she is exposed to. One fight can create a reactive dog. Consider not walking your dog for 30 days as you reprogram her opinions of other dogs. Instead, sit on your front porch or in your garage (or somewhere out of the way if those two options aren't possible) with your dog on leash, and practice treating every time another dog comes into your dog’s line of sight. During this time, engage your dog’s mind with mind puzzles, obedience work, and fun stuff like games in the house or yard. You know you have made great progress when your dog sees another dog, and he turns his head away from the once-threatening dog and looks into your eyes, expecting a treat. Once your dog is looking at her (former) trigger and then looking expectantly up at you for a treat, you can begin to put this skill on cue. Tell your dog "watch me" every time you see another dog approaching. Your end goal is for your dog to see another dog, and remain calm, looking at you for guidance. And this will be either continuing your walk, or being allowed to interact with the other dog. Please let me know if you have additional questions. Thanks for writing in!

Hello, this presents a challenge for sure. Bruno has to learn that this is not acceptable behavior. Keep him on the leash so that he cannot chase other dogs in case it leads to an altercation that may not even be his fault. Work on introducing Bruno slowly to dogs he does not know, as with the Introduction Walks Method described here: https://wagwalking.com/training/get-along-with-other-dogs. This may be easily done by joining a walking group with a trainer who has dealt with dogs that have aggression toward unfamiliar dogs. You can also take him to training classes (explain to the trainer what the problem is) or have a trainer come to the home and give you tools and knowledge to work with. You'll be surprised what one or two sessions can do to help you manage Bruno and ensure that he is not a danger. In the meantime, practice his obedience and listening skills, fine tuning them until he listens without hesitation: https://wagwalking.com/training/obedience-train-a-doberman and https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-doberman-to-listen-to-you. Good luck!

Hello! The best thing you can do when bringing home a new dog is to approach everything as a team effort. Showing too much attention (whether good or bad) to either dog will throw off the dynamic. Dogs are fairly good about sorting boundaries out on their own. It might not be smooth at first. It can usually take up to a month for dogs to adjust. But in the mean time, you can make sure that you are walking them together, playing with them together, feeding together, etc.

Hello! Your dog needs to learn new behaviors to quell her fear. First we reduce her fear around new dogs, and then we begin adding cues such as “watch me” or “sit.” Research tells us that most leash reactivity is caused by fear, not by aggression. Dogs bark and lunge at other dogs to warn, “Go away! Go away!” Dogs fear other dogs because of genetic reasons, lack of socialization, fights when they were puppies, or any scary (to the dog) interaction with other dogs. Sometimes having low thyroid levels contributes to unwanted canine behavior. During this time, avoid any punishment for reactivity. Doing so will make her concerns even bigger. Dogs learn by making associations, and you want your dog to associate other dogs with pleasant things — never punishment. The first step is to reframe what an oncoming dog means to your dog. From a safe distance — your dog determines the distance, not you — have your leashed dog view another dog. As the new dog comes into view, drop a lot of enticing meat treats just in front of your dog’s nose. Ignore any hysterics for now, but back up and create more space if your dog is unwilling to eat. This part is hard for humans — I understand. It helps to see your dog’s behavior for what it most likely is: fear vs. disobedience. The training reinforcer MUST be a great one, such as real meat. It is critical that the appearance of the new dog causes meat to fall from the sky. When the other dog is out of your dog’s view, all treats stop. We want your dog to predict that other dogs near him means that YUMMY FOOD will appear! As you are reframing your dog’s opinion of seeing other leashed dogs, be careful where you take your dog, and be protective of what she is exposed to. One fight can create a reactive dog. Consider not walking your dog for 30 days as you reprogram her opinions of other dogs. Instead, sit on your front porch or in your garage (or somewhere out of the way if those two options aren't possible) with your dog on leash, and practice treating every time another dog comes into your dog’s line of sight. During this time, engage your dog’s mind with mind puzzles, obedience work, and fun stuff like games in the house or yard. You know you have made great progress when your dog sees another dog, and he turns his head away from the once-threatening dog and looks into your eyes, expecting a treat. Once your dog is looking at her (former) trigger and then looking expectantly up at you for a treat, you can begin to put this skill on cue. Tell your dog "watch me" every time you see another dog approaching. Your end goal is for your dog to see another dog, and remain calm, looking at you for guidance. And this will be either continuing your walk, or being allowed to interact with the other dog. Please let me know if you have additional questions. Thanks for writing in!

Hello Susan, For this issue I highly recommend hiring a professional trainer who specializes in behavior issues like aggression and will come to your home to work with all the dogs together and evaluate the dynamics in your home, and create a training plan tailored to you. You may also need to desensitize pup to wearing a basket muzzle. Muzzle introduction video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KJTucFnmAbw&list=PLXtcKXk-QWojGYcl1NCg5UA5geEnmpx4a&index=6&t=0s Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Bethany, Check out the trainers' video channels I have linked below. Both specializes in aggression and reactivity. https://www.youtube.com/user/AmericasCanineED https://www.youtube.com/user/SolidK9Training Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Sally, I would start by speaking with your vet. Him being in pain could lead to aggression that's out of character, and there may even be some nerve or arthritis that needs addressing in general. I am not a vet so speak with your vet. Once he is feeling better again, check out the video I have linked below. I would practice something similar, passing other dogs from a distance and rewarding any good responses to work on helping pup feel less defensive about other dogs again, and to like them being near again. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3n_fPKPLA2g I would also consider working with a professional trainer in person if you don't see improvement or things get worse. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello. It sounds like he is being territorial over resources. I am sending you a link because dealing with this behavior issue is quite complex. This link is full of information on why this happens, and how to fix it. https://www.petplace.com/article/dogs/pet-behavior-training/inter-dog-territorial-aggression/

Hello Trudie, I recommend looking to see if there is a G.R.O.W.L. class in your area, which is a class for dog reactive/aggressive dogs, who wear basket muzzles and are intensively socialized together while practicing obedience under the trainer's guidance. Another option would be to find a training group that specializes in behavior issues like aggression, and has several well mannered dogs to practice gradually desensitizing pup to other dogs while practicing structured obedience around the other dogs to keep pup focused more on you and calmer while the dogs are in the distance, gradually decreasing the distance between them as pup improves and is rewarded for calm body language and focus and obedience with you in their presence. This would need to be practiced with various different dogs, one at a time, to help pup generalize the training to all dogs, like the trainers' various own dogs. For the barking, check out the Quiet method and the Desensitize method from the article linked below. Addressing pup's aggression toward dogs will likely make the biggest impact on the barking also though, since there is a good chance that that is why pup often barks while outside if it's happening in the presence of other dogs. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bark Barking videos: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLAA4pob0Wl0W2agO7frSjia1hG85IyA6a Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Riki, For aggression that's towards people and other dogs, I recommend hiring a professional trainer to work with you in person. Look for a trainer who specializes in behavior issues like fear and aggression and understands things like counter conditioning and thresholds. Ideally, look for someone who works with a team of trainers or staff and has access to other well mannered dogs, like the trainers' dog, so that training scenarios can be set up to practice socialization, counter conditioning (helping pup associate what they are afraid of with good things), with lots of repetitions at a distance that you can control so pup can learn without being so aroused that they can't pay attention. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Faylee, Often fear aggression can be improved, but I would seek out the help of a professional trainer or animal behaviorist who specializes in behavior issues like fear and aggression, and who has access to other well mannered dogs and a training staff so pup can be counter conditioned with a variety of other people and dogs to help them associate people and dogs with good things again and address the underlying anxiety and trauma associated with the attack. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden