How to Train Your Bull Terrier Dog to Not Bite

Hello Bonine, The biting is partially related to teething, it is also how puppies learn to control the pressure of their mouths so that they are safer during play or a fight. It is also a way they communicate with other dogs. It varies how soon it improves, some puppies aren't very mouthy, some stop around 4-5 months of age when they are finished teething, some get worse again for a while around 7-9 months when their jaws start to develop and are sore (this is also a heavy destructive chewing age). Puppies need help learning how to use their mouths appropriately. I usually aim to have puppies stop by the time they reach 5 months - because their jaws get stronger then. Check out the article linked below and the Bite Inhibition method and leave It method. I typically recommend the Bite Inhibition method for puppies younger than three months and the Leave It method for puppies 3 months and up or in general. You can use both also. Bite Inhibition method and Leave It method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hi, It sounds like the behavior might be meant as puppy mouthing but because of his oral stuff and lack of interaction with other puppies he doesn't have bite inhibition - which is where a puppy learns to control the pressure of his bite to make it gentler during play. If he seems aggressive - intending to harm on purpose, and not just wound up and too rough, then I would definitely hire a trainer because aggression at that age is very unusual and needs to be addressed ASAP by someone who has a ton of experience with aggression, great client reviews from those who have had that issue, and uses both positive reinforcement and fair correction - with a lot of emphasis on addressing underlying issues too. Puppy biting that looks more like tantrums, overly excited play, rough housing, and curiosity is 100% normal even if it hurts and still needs to be addressed. A dog that is lunging for your face, coming at you with a definite intent to harm you, and acting out of rage is not normal at this age. Some dogs have a strong defense drive and part of what that means is that when you apply physical pressure, like penning down, their natural response is to fight back and resist the pressure, instead of run away, give into it, or calm down. Dogs with strong defense drives do better with gaining their respect through consistency and things that stimulate their minds to think. There are certain commands you can teach to help earn a dog's respect through mental stimulation instead of a lot of physical stimulation - these methods still may involve correction but the correction is less physical and also combined with positive reinforcement once the dog does a correct behavior instead. Check out the articles linked below for some good commands to teach him to help with the rowdiness and lack of impulse control: Out - which means leave the area - great for biting. Be sure to read the entire article for different ways to use it in certain scenarios, and how to teach it: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-the-out-command/ Leave It command - Leave It method to build impulse control: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite Place command - work up to him being able to stay on place for an hour: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=omg5DVPWIWo Crate manners - staying in an open crate to build impulse control and calmness while you are home: https://thegooddog.net/training-videos/free-how-to-training-videos/learn-to-train-the-good-dog-way-the-crate/ Thresholds - building his respect for your space: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-w28C2g68M Heel article - The turns method - also helps build spacial awareness, respect and calmness: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Heel Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTiKVc4ZZWo Try placing his dog food into a container and covering it with water, letting it sit out until the food turns into mush, mixing a little peanut butter, cheese or liver paste into it (avoid Xylitol in peanut butter - it's toxic to dogs), then loosely stuffing a hollow chew toy with it. You can also freeze the toy if it's too easy for him to get the food out, and make several ahead of time if you plan to freeze. Many puppies need to be taught to chew on chew toys - this is done by using hollow chew toys and feeding your pup his meals in them, making them extra enticing with a bit of liver, cheese, or peanut butter if extra incentive is needed. It takes time to chew toy train. A good time to do it is in the crate or while he is on Place and can't leave - while he is bored and that's his only entertainment option. If he still won't take interest in chew toys, then check out something like Pet Tutor or Auto Trainer - a treat dispensing device that rewards certain calm behaviors by occasionally dispensing a piece of dog food. Puzzle toys are also good. If he isn't already, crate train him! This is extremely important for him especially. It sounds like he needs to practice things that give him an opportunity to learn to self-sooth, self-entertain, be calm, and relax. Place, crate training, and staying in the crate with the door open too are good ways to help him learn those skills. When many puppies get really tired they will actually bite a lot more - when he has an especially hard time listening, then he may need some rest-time in a crate or exercise pen. Check out the Surprise method linked below for introducing a crate. Expect a couple weeks of protesting. Many dogs adjust in 3 days, but up to 2 weeks of adjusting it normal - STAY CONSISTENT. Don't let him out unless he needs to go potty or is quiet for just a second (doesn't have to be long but catch him when he's quiet so that he is being rewarded with freedom for quietness and not noise). Surprise method: https://wagwalking.com/training/like-a-crate Finally, because of his past there is a chance that he has a really bad association with being touched or handled. If you find this is the case, then work on desensitizing him to touch and handling - it's a great thing for all dogs to practice as an aggression preventative too. Use his daily meal kibble for this. For example, touch an ear- give a treat. Touch a paw - give a treat. Touch a tail - give a treat. Touch his shoulder - give a treat. Hold his collar and give a treat. Start by giving the treat at the same time you touch him, then as he improves touch first, then give the treat. Start by touching areas he is most comfortable with first, like his shoulder, and gradually work toward areas that he is less comfortable with - like his tail, being especially gentle and focusing a lot of your efforts on touching those areas he struggles with to help him relax. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden