Developed in Australia, the Cattle dog has proven itself a worthy canine companion. They are loyal, obedient and protective. They are fantastic for herding livestock, making them a staple part of farms all over the world. However, your Cattle dog has developed a taste for biting. It started off as gentle nibbling, that was entertaining, but it has quickly got more serious. You don’t want him biting neighbors, guests, or other pets, for that matter.
Training him not to bite is essential. If he bites another dog you could be liable for hefty vet bills. If he starts biting humans he may have to be put down. If he bites the livestock he’s supposed to herd then he could cost you a serious amount of money. Not to mention the fact you have young children around. It’s simply a worry you do not need on your plate right now.
Training any dog not to bite when they are in the habit of it is a challenge. Cattle dogs, in particular, are very protective, so if that is the underlying cause it will not be easy. Fortunately, all is not lost. With the right training, you can stamp out this behavior. You’ll need to use a number of deterrence measures to show him this behavior will not be tolerated. You’ll also need to channel his aggression into something more productive.
If he’s a puppy this should be a relatively new habit. This means you may see results in just a couple of weeks. If he’s older and been biting for many years then you will need longer. It could take up to six weeks to fully to do the job. Succeed with this training though and you’ll never have to worry about guests coming over again!
Before you get to work you’ll need to collect a few bits. You’ll need a generous supply of treats or his favorite food broken into small chunks. You’ll also need a couple of toys and food puzzles. A deterrence collar, a water spray bottle, and a muzzle will also be needed.
Try to set aside 10 minutes each day for training over the next few weeks. The more consistent you are with training, the quicker you will see results.
The only other things you need are patience and an optimistic attitude. With all those boxes ticked, you’re ready to get to work!
I rescued Milo and was told he was approx 1 and a half years old. The only information I got was that he has never had basic training and that he was neglected. I had him in basic training for almost 2 months. I am done with the class and Milo is pretty good walking, basic commands, ans stuff like that but he bites A LOT and jumps up on people A LOT. I tried turning around but then he just bites me from behind my back. And if he gets very excited playing in my fenced in yard, he will run as fast as he can right into me and start biting me pretty hard. It doesn't seem vicious at all but he doesn't understand that i don't want to play with him if he's going to bite me/and or my family and friends.
Hello Amanda, Check out the article that I have linked below and follow the "Leave It" method. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite For the jumping check out the article that I have linked below and follow the "Step Toward" method. With his type of biting you do not want to turn your back or turn away from him. He is being rude and assertive and by stepping into him, you are communicating through your body language that he is in your space and should be more respectful. Be firm and calm, meaning business when you step toward him. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-australian-shepherds-to-not-jump Those methods are more gentle so I suggest starting there. If you do not see progress, check out the video below: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EcwvUOf5oOg Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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Tilly bites at my oldest son who is 6, she will bite his arms and legs I think she associates him as rough play as since we got tilly at 8 weeks old my son has found it necessary to hug her tightly to make her growl so since then she has been like this with him. We have tried to tell my son not to do this, sometimes he listens!! What can we do to stop this.
Hello Kelly, The issue will not improve until your son stops being rough with him. Your son's roughness has likely caused an aggressive fear response in Tilly. She does not trust him to be near her so she takes matters into her own paws so to speak. You need to show your dog that she can trust him again by having him respect her space. You need to practice handling exercises to help her get over her fear of being touched. You need to work on building her respect and trust for the members of your family. To do handling exercises with her gently touch an area of her body, like her ear, and give her a treat at the same time. Practice this with each ear, each paw, her tail, her muzzle, her back, her belly, her legs, and everywhere else. Be gentle and give her a treat for every gentle touch. You want to build her trust. Start by doing this exercise yourself. Once she will tolerate all of your touches, then have your son practice it with her while you control the interaction. If you believe she will bite him at that point in the training, then you need to get her comfortable wearing a soft, silicone, basket muzzle ahead of time. Once she is used to wearing the muzzle, then your son can practice the exercise with her while she is wearing the muzzle, and he can poke the treats through the muzzle holes to reward her. He needs to be extremely gentle and go slow. To get Tilly used to wearing a muzzle feed her pieces of her dinner every time that she sniffs the muzzle, touches it, lets you hold it on her, and eventually, let's you put it on her. Gradually work up to her wearing it and once she is wearing it, feed her treats every minute while she has it on until you take it off again. Expect this process to take a couple of weeks. Practice until she seems completely relaxed and happy while she is wearing the muzzle before moving onto your son doing handling exercises with her. Finally, work on building her respect and trust for you by following at least one of the methods from the article that I have linked below. Focus on the "Obedience" method or the "Consistency" method the most. You also need to advocate for her by keeping your son away from her when she wants to rest, and by not letting him be too rough with her. She needs to feel like you will handle situations so that she does not have to. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-doberman-to-listen-to-you Because your dog is at a critical age and aggression is already a problem, I would very highly recommend finding a professional trainer in your area with experience with aggression and high drive breeds to come to your home and help you. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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Our dog is mixed with blue heeler.Our dog has begun to jump at us and bite us like she might be trying to herd us, I think. the biting hurts and it takes awhile to get her to stop doing this behavior. we would appreciate any advice on how to get her to stop this behavior. We have had to carry a stick with us in our backyard to try to give her to get her to stop this behabior, redirecting. does not always work. can't ignore for fear of being bit.
Hello Wendy, First, teach Molly the "Leave It" command and practice it until she can obey you with clothing during training sessions. Check out the article that I have linked below to teach it, and follow the "Leave It" method from that article. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite That will teach her what to do instead of biting and practicing it will increase her self-control. After she can obey that command, then when she tries to bite you, tell her to "Leave It" and firmly step toward her with your arms crossed across your chest. Be calm and firm with her. If you move around a bunch or make a lot of noise or back away she will want to bite you more. Don't be afraid to step into her. If she comes at you again when you first step toward her, then step into her again. Repeat that until she calms down. When she backs away to avoid being stepped on, stand perfectly still and be serious but calm until she gives up and walks away. Have every member of the family do this and stand in front of any kids who can't do it themselves and give the leave it command and stepping for them. Try that for a couple of weeks and if you do not see any improvement, then fit a prong collar on her with a one foot leash on it and hire a trainer to show you how to correct her with a prong collar for the jumping. Expect the training to take a couple of months before the jumping completely stops, but you should see some improvement within the first two weeks if she is responding to the stepping toward her. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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My dog is very friendly and a loving dog. He has had two random incidents recently. Where he bit a mexican worker at our farm. And then recently again another worker that he gets along with very well, he try to bite his shoe.... This is a very random events, but I can't have this happening, since he doesn't try to do this often what could be going on and how to I work this out of him if it is a random event?
Hello Cody, There are several things that could be going on. I would need more details to accurately answer your question. If both people were Mexican, then it might be a socialization issue...he is not used to people who look like that because he was not around people who looked like that as a puppy and did not have enough positive experiences with them. Many people mistake this for racism but it's really a dog just not being familiar with something and so they are suspicious of it. This can happen with a dog that's never around other dogs or children too, for example. If that's the case, then you need to have as many Mexicans, especially men if both bites were men, toss him treats whenever he is calm and create a lot of really fun, positive interactions -- Do this carefully to keep the people safe though. If his response is consistently aggressive, then you will need to get him used to wearing a soft silicone basket muzzle - one that he can still open his mouth while wearing, and feed him the treats through the muzzle's holes to keep everyone safe. You can also practice this with him on a leash or behind a very tall, secure baby gate, and have the volunteers toss treats to him that way. This needs to be done one person at a time, with a lot of different people, so that he will generalize it to lots people of that ethnicity and not just the couple that he gets to know. Because both men were workers, it could also be what they are doing is causing him anxiety and frustration, and he has learned to distrust workers because loud, scary, or suspicious (in his mind) things happen whenever they are around. If that's the case, then he needs to get used to workers, the tools they use, and the noises they make by pairing all of those things, one thing at a time, with very positive experiences like treats, games, silliness, and fun. I also suggest giving him a safe and calm place to be, away from the workers and the noise, then they are there and you cannot practice the training with him. The commotion is probably causing his anxiety and frustration to build over time. When he cannot or will not get away from the commotion, eventually he has had enough and he will snap at small incidences because his anxiety and frustration are already so high - he is essentially already on edge and easily triggered. Help him by keeping him calm when the workers are there. Give him a safe, quieter space, with something fun to do, like chew on food stuffed chew toys or work on puzzle toys, Kong wobble toys, or something else that is fun and stimulates his mind to keep him occupied mentally. You can also have training sessions to just generally practice fun tricks with him in the calm area. This may also help him associate the workers' appearance with something fun to do with you. If the aggression continues or becomes general to other people too, then I suggest hiring a professional trainer who comes highly recommended and has a lot of experience and a good track record dealing with aggression, fear, and reactivity to work with you in person. Sometimes certain types of aggression can be hard to address without the right resources, by yourself. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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He will never quit biting! How do we stop?
Hello Kamari, Check out the article that I have linked below and first teach him the "Leave It" command from the "Leave It" method. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite Also, check out the video below and work on more structure and resetting his environment and mindset, and teaching him more self-control. Dogs need help learning impulse control and that can be taught in other areas of life too so that the dog has more control over himself once he understands that he is supposed to leave you alone, to be able to control himself and do it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F_0Y6QzI4_k If the biting is more severe, and not just rough puppy mouthing, then you need to hire a professional trainer who comes highly recommended, has a lot of experience with aggression, and knows how to handle multiple types of aggression (not just fear-based aggression - which this probably isn't). Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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My partner and I have recently rescued a 6 year old blue heeler. He has become very protective of his house and owners and does not like it when people enter the house. He shows quiet aggressiveness and will tend to go bite at them. When this happens we give me a firm NO and tap his nose but he will try again and growl. Have you got any tips on how my partner and I can work on this has it’s made it hard for friends and family to come over. Also when walking him he tends to pull on the lead quiet hard. We try walk him next to us and when he pulls we say NO and pull him back towards us more but unfortunately he is quiet strong. Any tips ?
Hello Jamie, It sounds like he needs a lot of structure and boundaries in general to build respect. Have him work for everything he gets for a while by having him perform a command first. For example, have him sit before you feed him, lay down before you pet him, look at you before you take him outside, ect.. If he nudges you, climbs into your lap uninvited, begs, or does anything else pushy, make him leave the room. Teach him a Place command and work on him staying on place for up to an hour, even when you walk into the other room for a minute. Practice crate manners. Work on teaching a structured Heel. Forget about getting places during a walk for a while right now, instead go somewhere open, like your front yard, a park, or culdesac and practice a heel where his nose does not go past your leg. You need to hire a trainer to help you with the aggression and you need someone who uses a lot of boundaries, positive reinforcement and fair discipline tactfully. Look for someone who is very experienced with aggression and different types of aggression - many trainers are only experienced with fear based aggression and you likely have some dominance- based or territorial aggression going on too, and they are treated a bit differently than fear. Place: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=omg5DVPWIWo Crate manners: https://thegooddog.net/training-videos/free-how-to-training-videos/learn-to-train-the-good-dog-way-the-crate/ Thresholds: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-w28C2g68M Heel article - The turns method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Heel Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTiKVc4ZZWo People Aggression protocol video- notice the back tie for safety (your guest should never be put at risk. Only train with the correct safety protocols to keep everyone involved safe. https://youtu.be/mgmRRYK1Z6A Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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Almost two years with our heeler/Aussie mix and it finally happened he bit my daughter. It was a true shock even knowing it COULD happen with a nippy breed, but since having him as a puppy we were hoping training would deterred it from ever happening. He did break the skin but it could have been a much worse bite. It was definitely a bite and release type bite. Our initial feeling was to rehome him with a family with no children, but my daughter just was so heartbroken, we couldn’t do it and knew he needed another chance and we needed to just be more precautious. It occurred when my kids were running around the house being loud and kids, and I know that herding instinct just kicked in. My question is besides being sure he is out of the room when they do want to run around and play, what more can we do to try to prevent this from occurring again? He listens extremely well, normally he starts the excited panting and circling around them and all I have to do is say crate and he immediately stops and heads straight to his crate, I just happened to not be home this time. Is it best to hire professional help? Just trying to figure out where to go from here.
Hello Christina, I suggest hiring a professional help. Look for someone who has a lot of experience with herding breeds too and can train with the kids as part of the sessions part of the time. You want to work on teaching him an automatic response to their behavior, like when he gets excited he automatically goes to his crate with a toy. Most of the time you will reinforce his behavior (because ideally you are always monitoring when they are around and likely to be excited) but when mistakes happen hr is more likely to make a good choice on his own if you have created a habit of him coping with his excitement by doing another behavior instead. Herding breeds can't be taught not to want to herd but you can teach management in most cases and redirect that excitement onto something else potentially. Working on his respect for your daughter with a trainer through obedience done carefully, and helping her learn how to avoid bites with him - like freezing if he rushes her instead of running or screaming. That can be a lot of pressure for her though and is easier for some kids than others. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
Thank you so much for your help! I believe I have found someone that is going to assist us. It’s so funny you mentioned about him finding something he can use to deter himself because he’s already really great about doing that with no prompting (which he completely taught himself haha) so that truly gives me hope that everything is going to be okay with a little training for US! Haha! It seems he was ahead of us in knowing what to do.
I'm not a trainer, just a repeat ACD owner. But I thought it was wonderful of you to give your heeler another chance. They are such great dogs! My daughters are college age, but my nieces and nephews range in age from 6-14. When we got our shelter blue heeler Tucker, who has some pretty intense ACD behaviors like nipping running creatures, I made sure to explain to all of the kids that Tucker doesn't normally bite, but if they run, he will think they are a herd of sheep and will nip at their ankles and anything dangling (like arms). I remind them each visit. The other thing I wanted to say is your kids will change and grow quickly (quicker than we want!) and they will soon be better able to interact with your dog. It may mean keeping a close eye on everyone for a while, but before you know it the kids will grow and the dog will get trained up and it will be easier. Sounds like she is a lucky dog :)
Now I just hope your post is really only 3 weeks old, or I will feel real dumb, lol!
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I take her for a walk atleast twice a day which seems to tire her out however on our walks I have taken her off leash just for a little while and she starts biting at my heels and legs and barking at me nonstop until I grab her and put the leash back on. Is there anything I can do for this to stop her from trying to herd me as I know that is what she is trying to do?
Hello Jessica, Check out the "Leave It" method from the article linked below. Work on teaching leave it. After she responds to leave it, give her a job to do while off leash, such as watching you while you walk, heeling beside you to receive a treat, or fetching a ball and bringing it back while you walk. You want to communicate to her that she should stop the biting but you also need to channel her energy and instinct into something else since it is an instinctual reaction - give her another outlet for it. Also, work on her recall now. Puppies naturally tend to follow but when she reaches 5-7 months that can go away and she needs a solid recall by then if allowed off leash. Check out the "reel in" method from the article linked below for teaching a recall/come: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-whippet-to-recall Follow the "Leave it method": https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite Follow the Turns method for heel: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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I got my dog as a rescue a couple months ago, and she's been great overall. However when she plays with other dogs, all she does is nip at their faces. When she's calm she licks their faces, but once she gets excited, or they start to run she chases them and nips and bits their jaws. I call her back when she starts to do this (and she comes back), but that stops her playing completely. I want her to be able to run and play but without all the nipping at the dogs faces! She doesn't nip me/herd me or any person. Just dogs. Thanks for your help!
Hello Kristin, Unfortunately, it sounds like you are dealing with a herding instinct - which is not something you can completely change. If she is nipping them in the face without causing them to yelp then she is likely just a rough player. Many herding dogs will display herding instincts around other dogs even though they do not do it with people. I suggest teaching her an 'Out' command and telling her 'Out' when she starts to get too rough. This will also likely stop her from playing but it will be a clear consequence related to the nipping if your timing is good, it will keep her from learning to ignore your 'Come' command overtime, and she might learn to control her own actions overtime using it - she might always need your intervention though. It will depend on her own level of drive during play. Her play may be completely innocent play mouthing if she never harms the other dogs while doing it and they do not seem to mind. If she is causing issues and doing it harder, she might be a dog that shouldn't play with other groups of dogs off-leash at this age - some dogs simply shouldn't play with other dogs past one-year of age because they have control issues, or they should only play with specific dogs and not large groups of dogs (especially dogs they do not know). For some dogs the continued play can actually cause new bad behaviors to develop because of that dog's particular temperament. This tends to be dogs that get so worked up that they end up causing a fight eventually. the more fights they get in - the more prone to fights they are, and it becomes a dominance battle and a lack of self-control issue and not really about play. Play involves a give-and-take and some dogs never give - which leads to fights. If the biting seems more serious, I suggest not letting her play off-leash with large groups of dogs anymore because it will likely only get worse and turn into other even more serious issues - like aggression. Instead, go on walks with other dog owners, join an obedience club and participate in structured activities with her and other dogs. Practice a canine sport like freestyle, agility, herding, tracking, fly-ball, dock jumping, or Frisbee. Work on her Canine Good Citizenship, tricks, or task work. There are a lot of things you can do with her around other dogs to maintain her socialization without having off-leash play. Dogs over one-year of age do not have to play with other dogs to maintain socialization. Look at Seeing eye dogs - they are extremely well socialized and playful as puppies but they learn to simply co-exist calmly with other dogs at one-and-two-years of age. If she does okay with one particular dog, have just the two of them play together in a fenced-in yard without the other dogs there. If her playing rough does not seem serious, practice the 'Out' with her whenever she starts to get too wound up. She might learn to control herself overtime through your intervention or she may always need your help calming back down - some dogs permanently need help, but either way it will help her avoid getting into fights by calming her back down when she starts to get too rough. When she is calm again, tell her to 'Go Play!' and encourage her back. With practice she should learn that the 'Go Play' command means it's alright to play again and may go back to playing immediately. To teach her an 'Out' command, 1. First call her over to you, then toss a treat several feet away from yourself while pointing to the area where you are tossing the treat with the finger of your treat tossing hand and saying 'Out' at the same time. 2. Repeat this until she will go over to the area where you point when you say 'Out' before you have tossed a treat. 3. When she will do that, then whenever you tell her "Out" and she does not go to where you are pointing, walk toward her and herd her out of the area with your body. Your attitude should be calm and patient but very firm and business-like when you do this. 4. When you get to where you were pointing to, then stop and wait until she either goes away or stops trying to go back to the area where you were standing before. 5. When she is no longer trying to get past you, then slowly walk backwards to where you were before. If she follows you, then tell her "Out" again and quickly walk toward her until she is back to where she was a moment ago. 6. Repeat this until she will stay several feet away from where you were when you told her 'Out' originally. 7. When you are ready for her to come back, then tell her 'OK' in an up beat tone of voice. 8. Practice this training until she will consistently leave the area when you tell her 'Out'. 9. When she will consistently leave, then practice the training with other areas that you would like for her to leave, such as the kitchen when you are preparing food, a person's space when she is being pushy, an area with a plant that she is trying to dig up, or somewhere with something in your home that she should not be bothering. By the way, it's wonderful that she will come off of playing with other dogs when called. Keep up the good work and try not to get discouraged if she needs extra help from you in this area. It is not uncommon. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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Jax is only 11 weeks and knows a lot of commands already! He’s starting to form some nasty habits though like barking and biting our clothes and ankles. What is the best way to nip this behavior while he’s young?
Hello Justin, Check out the article that I have linked below on puppy biting: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite Check out the article that I have linked below about barking: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bark Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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Hi! Our Blue Heeler Tucker is well behaved with people, but when playing with other dogs, especially if running, he will bite their legs and ears, and he's not gentle. We accepted that play groups would not be for him.
However, around the time Tucker turned two (about 10 months after we adopted him), my college age daughters who live with my husband and I adopted a 10-week-old boxador puppy from a shelter. Fynn is now about 10 months and has grown up with Tucker, and it has been a bit of a struggle from day one. Initially Fynn adored Tucker, wanted to be with him all of the time. Tucker tolerated him, but the feeling was not returned. And any playtime resulted in Tucker shutting Fynn down by biting his legs and ears. That was unfortunate enough, but it gets worse. Tucker is about 40 lbs, and the little boxador puppy that you could hold in one hand has grown to 70 lbs. I think that he is beginning to try and assert dominance. They got in a squabble over food just today for the first time. And Fynn has a problem with biting while playing or when he is trying to get attention that I'm guessing he learned from Tucker.
I have one specific question, and a general plea for advice. We make a point to play with the dogs individually for the most part. But they do sometime run together in the yard and they seem to both enjoy it up until the biting starts (which is very quickly). Would a muzzle for together time be a reasonable solution? It might not work at all, but I'm more worried that we would end up making Tucker's behavior worse.
The general plea for advice is in regards to their changing relationship. Should we interfere and try to maintain the status quo, or allow them to sort it out (without tolerating aggression)? I'm concerned that Tucker won't adjust.
Thanks to whomever takes the time to read this lengthy post! We are in the middle of relocating and hope to get both dogs some training when we are settled in our new home.
Hello Denise, It is always better to give both dogs boundaries, rather than letting them sort it out on their own (because you might now like what they end up doing). I suggest having clear boundaries and rules for both dogs and being the one to enforce them yourself, with rewards and fair corrections for obedience and disobedience. I suggest feeding both dogs in their own locked crates to avoid food sitting around and food aggression from one dog trying to steal another food, and working on structured obedience with both dogs to build their respect for you and make communication easier - you want both dogs to recognize that you are in charge and make the rules so that neither dog gets that position over the other (with people in leadership no dog has to be in charge). Check out the links to some command and boundaries to teach both dogs. Place: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=omg5DVPWIWo Crate manners: https://thegooddog.net/training-videos/free-how-to-training-videos/learn-to-train-the-good-dog-way-the-crate/ Thresholds: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-w28C2g68M Heel article - The turns method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Heel Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTiKVc4ZZWo Check out the Leave It method, for Tucker's biting or Fynn pestering Tucker: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite Honestly I would need to see the biting to advise about it, play and the use of a muzzle. Because Tucker is a herding breed he is probably trying to control movement by biting. Some dogs bite as part of their play and are just too rough but their attitude is fun loving (in which case a muzzle for BOTH dogs would work), but a herding breed who is trying to control the other dog may get more and more frustrated playing while wearing a muzzle because the desire to control is still there. That frustration could make other issues worse - in that case I would recommend avoiding letting them play, and instead do structured activities with them like heeling together, obedience, and other things that work their brains. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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First off I'd like to say I understand puppy biting. My heeler is EXTREMELY bitey. If I do the walk away method he follows and bites AND barks at me. He will also uncontrollably bark at me at random moments throughout the day. If i turn away from him he will grab the back of my arm and start to shake his head. He gets PLENTY of exercise. I'm talking 4- one hour walks a day with added playing in the yard and inside as well. I have to mention that he is GREAT with my 4 yr old niece and does not bite her when she comes to visit. I am at my witts end with him and I know I shouldn't be because I know hes a puppy but i dont know what else to do at this point.
Hello Sabrina, Check out the article I have linked below. First, follow the "Leave It" method. Once you have worked through all of the Leave It steps and he understands well and can leave clothing articles alone, then use the "Pressure" method to gently discipline him if he disobeys your Leave It command and keeps biting you. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite Also, work on teaching him the "Out" command. He is being very rude by rushing into your space to bite (normal for some puppies but still rude social behavior), so "Out" means get out of my space and uses body language to communicate to a dog that they should respect personal boundaries. To teach out: Go to a hallway or spacious area, call pup to you, and toss a large treat a few feet away while he is watching, saying "Out" and pointing with your treat tossing hand at the same time. After he eats the treat over there, tell him "Ok" and encourage him to come back. Repeat all of this until he will go away when you say Out and point before you toss the treat - at that point wait until he walks away THEN toss the treat over to him. Once he knows what Out means from practicing, when he gets bitey, tell him "Out". If he disobeys, calmly but firmly walk toward him until he leaves the area where you are, then stand in front of him, blocking him from going back to where he was until he stops trying to get past you. When he stops trying to get by, return to where you were before when he was biting and if he follows you back, walk toward him again. Repeat this until he gives you space (expect this to take a lot of repetition at first and for him to act more excited at first - stay calm and firm, like a brick wall). When you are ready for him to come back over, tell him "Okay" and encourage him back, then have him do a command like Sit before you pet or pay attention to him. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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Hello! My blue heeler Kimber is two years old and has become increasingly aggressive towards my other dogs. Whenever we give attention to another dog she becomes jealous and bites at that dog. Also she just will not get along with one dog in particular my oldest 11 year old cocker spaniel. my cocker spaniel has never been aggressive to other dogs but kimber attacks her and they fight violently. We have learned to keep them separated and Kimber knows this behavior is bad, she will run to her crate and lay down after she bites but she still continues to do it. We recently got a black lab puppy and we are worried to leave her near the puppy. We have a large yard and she gets plenty of exercise. Is she too old to correct this violent aggression? Would it be better for her to be rehomed to a one dog home? She has never bitten a human. Thanks
Hello Stefani, She is likely not to old to be trained, but whether or not this can be dealt with depends more on her temperament, the severity of the bites (is blood drawn), and your commitment to management and training. This type of aggression is not a quick fix but will take commitment from you. Check out Jeff Gellmand from SolidK9Training's YouTube channel. I suggest hiring a trainer who is very experienced with this type of aggression (not only fear based - which this probably is not). Whatever you decide to do the attacks cannot continue or the other dogs might develope fear aggression, in addition to being in danger of harm. I am sorry you are going through this. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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Whenever our puppy goes to the bathroom inside we will say “Max no” and then we will go get him to take him outside, but every time we go to get him he starts crying like we are beating him and then he will bite us. Why is he crying like this and how can we get him to not do it when we approach him to take him outside?
Hello Lindsey, Some of the time when he is being picked up it might be unintentially rough or intimidating because you are in a hurry due to the situation. His bites are probably in protest to something he feels is unpleasant and he is either scared or simply demanding that you put him down. First, work on preventing potty accidents more carefully by following the "Crate Training" method from the article linked below, so that he is only free when his bladder is empty right now. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-german-shepherd-puppy-to-poop-outside Next, work on desensitizing him to being touched. When you feed him his meals, as often as you can, feed him his dog food one piece at a time and every time you feed him a piece gently touch an area of his body at the same time. For example, touch an ear - feed a treat. Touch a paw - feed a treat. Touch his belly - feed a treat. Touch his tail - feed a treat. Practice each area of his body until he is comfortable being touched everywhere; at that point, when you touch his belly, gently lift up for a second, then feed a treat. Practice holding and lifting for slightly longer then feeding a treat as he improves. Go slow enough with the progression of the training that he stays calm. If he is sensitive about an area, practice that area more often and gently before progressing. You can also keep a chew proof drag leash on him right now while you are working on teaching him to accept more touch - to avoid having to touch him roughly while he still learning. Look for something like VirChewLy leash (sold places like Amazon), so that the leash doesn't get chewed up. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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Hello. I recently adopted a 5 month old Blue heeler from my local animal shelter. He is very loving to both my boyfriend and I, but whenever someone else is added into the mix he immediately goes up and bites their thigh. I have been working with him for about 2 weeks now and he continues to try and bite my roommate every time she walks through the house. I even took him home to visit my family and he constantly barks and my sister and tries to lunge and bite her. I use the “No” command a lot and even try squirting him with water. But it seems as if none of this phases him. I also tried crate training, and as soon as I let him back out, he immediately tries to bite the person again. He bit my mother when she was walking across the living room and 1 minute later she bent down to grab something off the floor and he lunged and bit her hand again. I realize he is just a puppy and these things take time, but it seems as if his aggression is worsening.
Hello Jordan, I suggest hiring a trainer to evaluate whether this is excited puppy mouthing or true aggression due to fear, resource guarding, genetics, or something else. If this is puppy mouthing, then work on commands that build impulse control and on the Leave It command from the article linked below. Leave It method to address puppy mouthing: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite Out (which means leave): https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-the-out-command/ Place: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=omg5DVPWIWo Crate manners: https://thegooddog.net/training-videos/free-how-to-training-videos/learn-to-train-the-good-dog-way-the-crate/ Thresholds: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-w28C2g68M Heel article - The turns method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Heel Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTiKVc4ZZWo Second, check out his article: https://www.solidk9training.com/sk9-blog/2016/09/08/the-ten-commandments-of-dog-training-and-ownership-do-2 Finally, work on having people reward Haley calmly while he is being calm to teach him to respond differently to people and address any possible fear-aggression. He should only be rewarded while calm though, not while acting in a way you don't want him to. Check out the video linked below for an example of this: https://youtu.be/gblDgIkyAKU Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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We adopted Archie approximately 3 weeks ago from a shelter. He is a very busy dog and loves to play. We also have a labradoodle with 3 legs (missing 1 front leg). They love to play together but Archie gets pretty rough and always goes for the front leg. Is there a way to train him not to do this? The other day the dogs were playing and our labradoodle's front leg got injured. He is fine now, but couldn't walk for several hours. Obviously, we are concerned that it could be worse the next time. We have taken Archie back to the shelter thinking that maybe they are not a good fit. Other than the leg biting and pulling, they play well together. They share food, water and toys. Archie is a very smart dog, knows how to sit, lay down, high five and roll over. We miss him terribly and Howie seems to miss him also. We have been considering going back to get him if we could train him. Need advice.
Hello Jonna, It would be very difficult to teach him to not bite the leg at all, but you could teach the dogs not to roughhouse together in general, and instead to simply be calm and enjoy one another's company. You could do things like group heeling hikes, obedience games, and other fun activities. As Archie gets older his desire to roughhouse will probably decrease anyway. You would simply be teaching him more self-control at a younger age, instead of waiting for him to calm down around other dogs. To do this, you would teach both dogs an Out command, a Place command, a Heel command, and a Leave It command. Whenever they try to roughhouse, give them a command that breaks it up and refocuses them onto something else (like chewing a chew toy on their Place beds until calm, or leaving the room), and reward them for being calm around one another and obedient around each other. Out command (which means leave the area or room): https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-the-out-command/ Place: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=omg5DVPWIWo Heel article - The turns method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Heel Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTiKVc4ZZWo Leave It method; https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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We got our cattle dog from a shelter. We have had him for three weeks. He is already very protective of me and my son and growls when ever someone he doesn't know comes close to us. He has even nipped at a couple people. These people are our extended family members or friends. How do we train him to stop this?
Hello Lisa, The first thing I would suggest is working on his respect for you and your son. Bellow I have linked an article that can help you to build his respect for you. Working on the training from the three methods in that article should help him to build his respect for you. Have your son participate in "The Obedience Method" and "The Working Method" with you. Make sure that your son is not being too physical with your dog though. The idea is to build his respect by addressing his mind by pinning him to the floor or being overly harsh with him physically. Here is that article: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-doberman-to-listen-to-you The second thing that I would recommend is extensive socialization. Take him with you to places and get him around a lot of people. Have people give him treats when you tell him to "Say Hi", and work on his obedience around other people, so that he will generally get used to the presence of other people and become bored and relaxed around them. If you believe that he would bite someone, then get him used to wearing a basket muzzle before taking him out, and have him wear that while you are out just in case. Also instruct people to interact with him calmly and to toss him treats from a distance, rather than overwhelming him by getting into his space. You can also purchase a vest that says "In Training" to indicate to people that he should not be petted unless you give someone permission. That way you can control the interactions and have the person who wants to greet him toss him treats rather than rush over to him. Third, I would strongly recommend hiring a local trainer with experience in aggression, high drive working and protection breeds, and fear and reactivity. Obi likely needs a lot of structure and needs to have his aggression interrupted and to learn that it is not acceptable, but he also needs to have the underlying lack of socialization, fear, rude, controlling behavior, or negative association with people addressed. For this reason I would recommend using a trainer who uses Positive Reinforcement and fair discipline and boundaries implementation, opposed to just one or the other. Many of these types of trainers call themselves balanced trainers, but anyone can call themselves anything, so ask questions to find out what a trainer's philosophy, goals, experience, and methods in training are. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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we got Gus when he was 4 wks old, when we lived in the mountains in Colorado. We had donkey and longhorns on the ranch we lived on. he has always nips at our heels playing, and chase the animals bitting at their heels. He never bit to hurt. We have moved back to Texas on my sons ranch with lots of horses, other dogs, and people coming and going. Gus has started lunging at everyone and has bit my son and daughter-in-law in a very aggressive way. He tries to bit them every time they come around. The other day we were working at getting our house ready to move back in and the man that was renting came by. We were talking in the back yard and Gus had been laying under a shade tree, suddenly Gus ran over and bit the man on the ankle and brought blood. Today my daughter-in-law came over to the RV where we are staying, Gus started after her to bit her. I had him on a lead hooked to a stake, I grabbed him and jurked him back so he couldn't bit her. He in turn bit me on the foot and brought blood. I scolded him and smacked his nose telling him "NO". He growled at me and I continued to tell him "NO" until he settled down. Then I put him in his pen. Later when I went to feed him, he was wagging his tail and licking me. We are afraid he is going to really hurt someone. I have got two choices, get rid of him or somehow teach him no to be so aggressive and stop wanting to bit people. I want to keep him.
Hello Deborah, You need to hire a professional trainer who is very experienced with aggression. Ask questions about their experience and previous client referrals. 1. You need to work on building his trust and respect toward you. 2. The aggression needs to be addressed very calmly with controlled scenarios that are set up with safety in mind to specifically practice training around people. 3. He needs to be managed better when there may be people around, with a leash and a basket muzzle, or crated right now. First, his trust and respect needs to be calmly build for you at times when he isn't aroused and aggressive - if he is likely to bite even at calm times, then you need a trainer to help with this part too: Place: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=omg5DVPWIWo Crate manners: https://thegooddog.net/training-videos/free-how-to-training-videos/learn-to-train-the-good-dog-way-the-crate/ Thresholds: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-w28C2g68M Heel article - The turns method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Heel Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTiKVc4ZZWo Listening: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-doberman-to-listen-to-you He needs to be rewarded for calm behavior around other people, with safety measures to ensure he can't get to them to bite. He needs to be corrected for the aggression very calmly from a safe distance and the timing needs to be right. Correction for aggression needs to be done by someone who is very experienced with it. People Aggression protocol video- notice the back tie for safety (your guest should never be put at risk. Only train with the correct safety protocols to keep everyone involved safe. https://youtu.be/mgmRRYK1Z6A He will likely need other training in addition to the above but exactly what will have to be determined by a trainer or behaviorist who can work with him in person and evaluate exactly what is going on. Biting you while being agressive toward someone else is called redirecting. Be sure to tell a trainer that he redirects aggression because that will effect how he should be handled safety. Drawing blood during bites is also more dangerous than a bite that doesn't draw blood. You can look up the Canine Educator, The Good Dog, and SolidK9Training on YouTube for more information on working with aggression. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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Hi! My boy is so great most of the time, knows his basic commands, is crate trained and well behaved. Recently we’ve noticed that while on walks, he’ll sit infront of someone to be pet but then when I say let’s go boy, he goes to nip at them. He’s mostly unsuccessful at biting but a couple of times he has connected and broken skin. Everyone is always so understanding that he’s a puppy, but it really bothers me. He doesn’t bite any other time, no heel nipping, he even runs in parks with children and doesn’t go near them. Any suggestions as to what could be setting him off? I don’t want to have to refuse everyone we pass to not pet him but I also can’t have him biting either.
Hello Danielle, You really need to have someone who is very experienced with fear, aggression, and herding breeds watch the incident to get a real idea of what's going on. His body language and exact reaction should tell someone who is familiar with fear, aggression, and herding a lot about what is going on - and thus how to fully address it. Look for a trainer with a lot of experience with fear, aggression, and herding breeds - herding drive. Ask questions and check into reviews or previous client referrals to ensure the trainer is experienced enough with behavior problems too, and not only teaching obedience commands - they should know obedience commands too but problem behavior is another set of skills and knowledge in training. It's hard to say without watching him in that scenario. The behavior might be related at least partially to a herding drive - my suspicion. It may only be obvious in that scenario because for some dogs the leash can add an element of frustration or arousal due to the restraint. Your body language and feelings are often also transmitted to your dog while they are on a leash so close to you - if you are subconsciously causing him to feel more anxious or aroused, then that could be part of the issue, and once a dog bites one time it is hard not to feel and react that way until someone helps you learn how to manage it in a way that gives you confidence too. If aroused or anxious his desire to control will probably be heightened. It could also be herding combined with the restraint of the leash - and his desire to control someone and inability to because of restraint. Watch him at home. Even though he isn't biting, is he moving around people, bumping into them, staring, barking, or blocking their path to control where people go - if he is, that's a herder's natural desire to control living things. It could be completely unrelated to herding, and a fear-based behavior. Some dogs don't bite until the person's back is turned because it is safer for the dog to do so - it's sort of the cowards way of trying to express aggression. It could be over-excitement or frustration due to the leash and unexpected situation, and the tug of the leash sets it off, or the movement of the person away from him sets it off. There are probably some subtle clues leading up to the bite that you might be missing - such as staring at the person first, tensing up, fearful body language, being highly aroused, and you and the other people's body language and movements. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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Major is a rescue dog and we have had him for 2 months. Sometimes he starts rounding up other dogs at the park. We’ve start getting him interest d in a squeaky ball to divert him away from this behaviour. Which works sometimes. When he gets rough we put him on the lead and take him away. He won’t respond - runs away and we have to ‘catch him’. In the last 2 days he has for the first time lunged and tried and bite the heals of the other dog - circling them and the owner - from happy playing to suddenly attacking of the other dog put on lead or we bring lead out to go. He won’t respond - yet at home in the house he is gentle with everyone, responds to all commands. He needs the exercise but I feel I can’t let him off the lead. He is desperate to play when we are at the oval - but he attacks when we go to leave - this behaviour seems to be getting worse.
Hello Donna, Major is a dog who should never go to the dog park. The herding behavior is instinctual and compulsive. He can be around other dogs and should be but his socializing should be structured, like going on pack walks with local dog walking or hiking groups (www.meetup.com, obedience clubs, and social groups are good places to find that), doing obedience classes or practicing your own obedience class with friends and their dogs, hanging out calmly around other dogs. Being in an environment like a dog park is highly arousing, unstructured, and encourages compulsive herding, aggression, and arousal. Herding dogs will typically use movement, barking and staring to control livestock. When that doesn't work, they move to shoving and nipping. When that doesn't work they will bite and hold. He is treating the other dogs like livestock and then the other dog's fight back and it turns into a fight. Every time this happens it's being reinforced and increased- which is why its getting worse. Until you stop going it will continue to get worse. He needs to relearn how to be calm around other dogs by doing structured things like obedience classes or structured walks with other dogs - where the focus is on obeying you, and his mindset is calm around the other dogs. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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We got out 1 1/2 year old Australian Cattle Dog about 2 months ago from a man who has two older ACDs and told us this one was just too much for him. He is an over-the-road trucker who is away from home a lot, and apologized that when the dog was a puppy his wife and children thought it was cute for the dog to jump up and put its front paws around them, and rewarded this behavior. It was quickly obvious that they had rewarded begging from the dinner table as well.
My wife thought an ACD would be a good breed for us, as we have a 33 acre farm with full-size and miniature horses. Our little guy (big for an ACD at about 50 pounds) initially seemed amenable to training with a shock collar. It eliminated unnecessary barking in less than a day, and has helped to reduce other minor behavior problems. Because we have plenty of land, we tend to let him run loose in our fenced 1-acre yard, and he comes along without a leash in the woods and the fields. Even when well out of sight, he will come instantly when called.
The problem comes when he is in contact with any of the livestock. He will do his heel-biting thing constantly and indiscriminately if given any chance to whatsoever, and seems impossible to deter. He seems to get into a trance or frenzy where no outside input will slow him down. Yelling or shocking (or being kicked by a horse) will make him stop the individual bite, but he will just circle around and zoom in for another. This can continue indefinitely unless he is physically removed from the situation. He will also sometimes be innocently following us around doing chores, then go into "stealth mode," and silently cover a hundred yards of ground in about 3 seconds, like a horse-seeking missile, to go in for a juicy bite, so even when he seems fine, he can't be trusted.
When animals are penned, he will run around the perimeter barking constantly (Hey, stupid, they're in a pen - you don't need to herd them!), and, once again, can only be stopped by being pulled, and kept, away.
Needless to say, none of this is calming to the horses, and an excited 1-ton animal is a hazard to say the least.
Unfortunately, while we are working with the livestock, we can't constantly supervise the dog as well. The whole point of having a dog is to be able to have help if you need it, not have another job to do. We have had no choice but to leave him locked in the yard, which neither he nor we like, but he's just too dangerous to bring around other animals, unless we pound a stake into the ground and tie him to it (and I suspect he would pull it out).
His only other significantly annoying behavior is that he likes to jump up and put both paws on my leg (or even my arm, sometimes playfully clamping his vise-like jaws around it) when I'm sitting down. I always push or swat him down and tell him "No," then pet him when he sits calmly, but he hasn't slowed this behavior down at all in 2 months, and I'm afraid someone played some sort of a wrestling game with him when he was younger that may have encouraged this.
In most other ways, he's a great dog. He is never aggressive toward us or strangers and he generally does what we tell him to, even without specific training. He's a bit cantankerous around the house, but he goes right to his "house" when told to go and he does not chase the cat (who steers well clear of him).
My wife is starting to talk about finding a better home for him and getting a calmer dog, but I thought I should see whether I can find any information about training out (or controlling) this specific behavior in this particular breed.
Anyway, thanks is advance for any suggestions you may be able to give.
Hello EL, Honestly, you might be able to teach an avoidance of the livestock, but he probably isn't a good herding or livestock guarding candidate if you are looking for a dog to help you around the farm and not just a pet. The avoidance would be taught using the e-collar, a long line, a lot of planned repetition with you enforcing a known command like leave it, and additional lessons where you are hidden and repeat the corrections when he doesn't think you are around - at a higher level than the lower working level you use when you are there to enforce it. Check out James Penrith from Take the lead dog training on YouTube. He specializes in livestock chasing dogs and off leash training. Day 1. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lgNbWCK9lFc Day 2. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kpf5Bn-MNko&t=14s Day 3. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xj3nMvvHhwQ Day 4. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VxrGQ-AZylY Leave It: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite Out - which means leave the room: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-the-out-command/ You will either need to spend a lot of time learning about e-collars or hire a trainer who is very experienced using them for what's called "working level" and "act of god" - a good e-collar trainer should be familiar with both of those terms. They simply mean "the lowest level your specific dog will respond to the collar at", and using the e-collar at a higher level when you are not present so that the dog doesn't associate the collar correction with your presence but the thing they should be avoiding - horses. Also, only ever use a high quality e-collar, such as Dogtra, Garmin, SportDog, or E-collar technologies. There are cheaper collars out there but a good collar has at least 20 levels and is well built so that it doesn't over correct or correct too harshly. Cheap knock-off brands can be dangerous and are not the same thing. For the jumping, check out the leash method and step toward method from the article linked below. For your pup I suggest using a correctly fitted prong collar with the leash method (look up how to fit them properly - higher on the neck without slack but without the prongs pushing into the skin at all when not in use). Used and fitted correctly, you shouldn't have to use lots of pressure with a prong collar. Look for a prong collar brand where the ends of the prongs are rounded for safety - like herm Springer. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-australian-shepherds-to-not-jump Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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My cattle dog is pretty well behaved and spent his 1st 6 months in various training classes. His main problem is with other dogs male and female especially around food and treats and on walks. He goes to work with my husband where there are lots of other dogs. He is very possessive when food is around and will bite and attack any other dog that has food. Also on walks when he sees another dog he get really excited and barks and lunges at the other dog. When he gets near the other dog he is usually good for the first minute while he sniffs the other dog but then usually goes to bite their face or neck. He has only drawn blood once but I want to curb this behavior. When he is at work with my husband around the dogs he knows he plays with them pretty well but sometimes bites playfully and problems usually only come up when food or a toy is involved. He has not been fixed yet and I'm wondering if getting him fixed will help his aggression or is this a breed specific problem that neutering will not help with. Thanks
Hello Jessica, You will most likely need to hire professional help from someone who specializes in aggression, has access to other well mannered dogs, and has a training staff or assistant/other trainer to help manage the other dogs during training practice. Look for someone who specializes in behavior issues and aggression - not someone who only does obedience. Someone who is experienced with aggression should also have obedience experience, but the average class instructor doesn't necessarily have aggression experience and the training will need to take place one-on-one and not in a class setting. Neutering can help with testosterone related aggression but it rarely changes things completely. It could make the training easier but training will still be necessary. Aggression toward other dogs is a common Australian Cattle dog trait, but each dog is also different and some dogs are more possessive than others. Check out Jeff Gellman from SolidK9Training on Youtube. He specializes in aggression and behavior issues and has over a hundred videos on his YouTube channel talking about how to implement structure and boundaries to build a dog's respect for you, how to work on Out around food for resource guarding, handling reactivity during walks, using obedience to increase impulse control and While I do also suggest hiring someone with the right experience and resources to really help you in personal - someone who comes well recommended by their previous clients whose dogs also struggled with aggression, learning about aggression more yourself may help you find the best trainer for your case and help you with implementing what you are learning while working with that trainer. Any time you are working with aggression be aware that many dogs will redirect their aggression to whoever is closest during times of arousal - even though that dog is normally fine with people. There is always a bite risk and a good trainer should be experienced enough to take precautions to avoid a bite. Be careful yourself though. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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I got Bear from a friend that got him from a breeder that was giving him away and I've had him for 8 weeks and he is apparently about 3 years old. His problems are biting when he gets excited and running away from me when he's not on a leash. He learns basic commands quickly but I don't know the best way to teach him more difficult things like not eating everything he sees on the floor and understanding when to settle down and stop biting. The biting is annoying and it usually isn't that hard, but last week we were in the yard with my boyfriend and his dog and the other dog was running around and Bear was trying to herd her but then he randomly went after my boyfriend and bit him pretty hard. Then tonight he was bringing my mom a toy back and he bit her on the arm so she told him no then he growled at her a couple times. He has never growled at me but she said he's done it before so I don't know where the aggression is coming from. I don't think his biting is usually aggressive but now I'm worried and feel like he might unexpectedly turn on me or someone else.
Hello Jordan, It sounds like you would benefit from hiring a trainer in general. It sounds like boundaries need to be established with pup and respect built. Have him work for everything he gets for a while by having him perform a command first. For example, have him sit before you feed him, lay down before you pet him, look at you before you take him outside, ect.. If he nudges you, climbs into your lap uninvited, begs, or does anything else pushy, make him leave the room. Teach him a Place command and work on him staying on place for up to an hour, even when you walk into the other room for a minute. Practice crate manners. Work on teaching a structured Heel. Forget about getting places during a walk for a while right now, instead go somewhere open, like your front yard, a park, or culdesac and practice a heel where his nose does not go past your leg. Place: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=omg5DVPWIWo Crate manners: https://thegooddog.net/training-videos/free-how-to-training-videos/learn-to-train-the-good-dog-way-the-crate/ Thresholds: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-w28C2g68M Heel article - The turns method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Heel Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTiKVc4ZZWo Working and Consistency methods: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-doberman-to-listen-to-you Come- Reel In method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-whippet-to-recall Leave It method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite Pup may be a dog who needs a lot of consistent leadership and boundaries. I also expect he would thrive having to work more in life for what he gets. Heelers tend to need a lot of mental stimulation and you often have to earn their respect before they will listen. Certain forms of aggression can be a breed trait that becomes more apparent when they lack respect for you - they were bred to be tenacious enough to take on angry cattle and not back down. That doesn't mean pup can't do well with your family though, but I suggest hiring a trainer who is very experienced with higher drive breeds, to show you how to calmly lead pup and give consistent boundaries so that everyone is happier and pup is respectful. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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