How to Train Your Boxer Dog to Not Jump

Hello Jahmad, First, for the constipation what are the symptoms? If he is dragging his bottom along the ground then that is a sign of him needing to express his anal glands. Most dogs do this naturally when they poop. Sometimes they will drag them along the ground to help the process if they are giving him issues though. If they seem to be giving him regular issues or seem swollen or uncomfortable, then I suggest visiting your vet. Your vet can express them for him...If left impacted they can get infected though, so if in doubt consult your vet. Scooting can also be a sign of intestinal parasites like worms, so your vet may want to do a fecal test as well. (I am not a vet though so consult your vet). If your dog is not scooting but acting constipated in another way, then if he is constipated, I suggest switching foods to deal with the root of the problem. You may need a different source of carbohydrates, a probiotic, or some other form of fiber suited for a dog. If you switch foods do so gradually to avoid diarrhea. The movement while outside is likely triggering the need to go potty so that is likely why you are noticing either scooting or constipation at that time. As far as Angel's behavior around Ali, the not so fun answer is she needs practice with training. When you work with a dog one on one in a calm environment it is easier for a dog to focus, listen, and be obedient without distractions present - especially if you have rewards. When you add another dog to the mix, you have to consider that a type of distraction, just like strangers and dogs outside make obedience harder and you have to work up to a dog being obedient around those types of things also. For your dog to obey around a second dog, they need an intermediate level of obedience (high level) instead of just a basic level of obedience (low, initial level). Practice her training in the presence of other dogs and people to increase her self-control and focus on you even during those times. See if you can recruit another person to work with Ali while you work with Angel and practice their commands and listening skills together (like a mini class) so that they learn to focus in the presence of the other one. You could also enroll each dog in an intermediate obedience class so that they get to practice around more distractions. Only bring one dog at a time unless you have a second person who can handle the second dog. You would need to join two separate classes unless you have a second person. Be sure to be consistent. If you give a command, enforce that command, even if that means walking across your back yard to go get the dog and bring them back to the place you called them from and have them sit every time you say "Come". If you say Come and they don't feel like coming because the other dog is around (or Off for jumping) but you don't follow through with enforcing it, then they learn that they can ignore you when something (the other dog) is more fun. When you follow through on commands they learn that you mean what you say. This is harder to do when there are two dogs but even more important. Also, work on training Ali one on one as well, so that he becomes less of a distraction and is more focused on you instead of on Angel when told to do something. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello! Below are some tips on how to curb jumping. Jumping: Teach your dog that they receive no attention for jumping on you or anyone else. Teach your dog to do something that is incompatible with jumping up, such as sitting. They can't sit and jump up at the same time. If they are not sitting, they get no attention. It is important to be consistent. Everyone in your family must follow the training program all the time. You can't let your dog jump on people in some circumstances, but not others. Training techniques: When your dog… Jumps on other people: Ask a family member or friend to assist with training. Your assistant must be someone your dog likes and wants to greet. Your dog should never be forced to greet someone who scares them. Give your dog the "sit" command. (This exercise assumes your dog already knows how to "sit.") The greeter approaches you and your dog. If your dog stands up, the greeter immediately turns and walks away. Ask your dog to "sit," and have the greeter approach again. Keep repeating until your dog remains seated as the greeter approaches. If your dog does remain seated, the greeter can give your dog a treat as a reward. When you encounter someone while out walking your dog, you must manage the situation and train your dog at the same time. Stop the person from approaching by telling them you don't want your dog to jump. Hand the person a treat. Ask your dog to "sit." Tell the person they can pet your dog and give them the treat as long as your dog remains seated. Some people will tell you they don't mind if your dog jumps on them, especially if your dog is small and fluffy or a puppy. But you should mind. Remember you need to be consistent in training. If you don't want your dog to jump on people, stick to your training and don't make exceptions. Jumps on you when you come in the door: Keep greetings quiet and low-key. If your dog jumps on you, ignore them. Turn and go out the door. Try again. You may have to come in and go out dozens of times before your dog learns they only gets your attention when they keep all four feet on the floor. Jumps on you when you're sitting: If you are sitting and your dog jumps up on you, stand up. Don't talk to your dog or push them away. Just ignore them until all four feet are on the ground. Please let me know if you have additional questions. Thank you for writing in!

Hello! Here is information on jumping. Jumping: Teach your dog that they receive no attention for jumping on you or anyone else. Teach your dog to do something that is incompatible with jumping up, such as sitting. They can't sit and jump up at the same time. If they are not sitting, they get no attention. It is important to be consistent. Everyone in your family must follow the training program all the time. You can't let your dog jump on people in some circumstances, but not others. Training techniques: When your dog… Jumps on other people: Ask a family member or friend to assist with training. Your assistant must be someone your dog likes and wants to greet. Your dog should never be forced to greet someone who scares them. Give your dog the "sit" command. (This exercise assumes your dog already knows how to "sit.") The greeter approaches you and your dog. If your dog stands up, the greeter immediately turns and walks away. Ask your dog to "sit," and have the greeter approach again. Keep repeating until your dog remains seated as the greeter approaches. If your dog does remain seated, the greeter can give your dog a treat as a reward. When you encounter someone while out walking your dog, you must manage the situation and train your dog at the same time. Stop the person from approaching by telling them you don't want your dog to jump. Hand the person a treat. Ask your dog to "sit." Tell the person they can pet your dog and give them the treat as long as your dog remains seated. Some people will tell you they don't mind if your dog jumps on them, especially if your dog is small and fluffy or a puppy. But you should mind. Remember you need to be consistent in training. If you don't want your dog to jump on people, stick to your training and don't make exceptions. Jumps on you when you come in the door: Keep greetings quiet and low-key. If your dog jumps on you, ignore them. Turn and go out the door. Try again. You may have to come in and go out dozens of times before your dog learns they only gets your attention when they keep all four feet on the floor. Jumps on you when you're sitting: If you are sitting and your dog jumps up on you, stand up. Don't talk to your dog or push them away. Just ignore them until all four feet are on the ground. Please let me know if you have additional questions. Thank you for writing in!

Hello! Your dog needs to learn new behaviors to quell his fear. First we reduce his fear around new dogs or people, and then we begin adding cues such as “watch me” or “sit.” The tips below can be used towards dogs, humans, or anything else he may be reactive to. Research tells us that most leash reactivity is caused by fear, not by aggression. Dogs bark and lunge at other dogs to warn, “Go away! Go away!” Dogs fear other dogs because of genetic reasons, lack of socialization, fights when they were puppies, or any scary (to the dog) interaction with other dogs. Sometimes having low thyroid levels contributes to unwanted canine behavior. During this time, avoid any punishment for reactivity. Doing so will make his concerns even bigger. Dogs learn by making associations, and you want your dog to associate other dogs with pleasant things — never punishment. The first step is to reframe what an oncoming dog means to your dog. From a safe distance — your dog determines the distance, not you — have your leashed dog view another dog. As the new dog comes into view, drop a lot of enticing meat treats just in front of your dog’s nose. Ignore any hysterics for now, but back up and create more space if your dog is unwilling to eat. This part is hard for humans — I understand. It helps to see your dog’s behavior for what it most likely is: fear vs. disobedience. The training reinforcer MUST be a great one, such as real meat. It is critical that the appearance of the new dog causes meat to fall from the sky. When the other dog is out of your dog’s view, all treats stop. We want your dog to predict that other dogs near him means that YUMMY FOOD will appear! As you are reframing your dog’s opinion of seeing other leashed dogs, be careful where you take your dog, and be protective of what she is exposed to. One fight can create a reactive dog. Consider not walking your dog for 30 days as you reprogram her opinions of other dogs. Instead, sit on your front porch or in your garage (or somewhere out of the way if those two options aren't possible) with your dog on leash, and practice treating every time another dog comes into your dog’s line of sight. During this time, engage your dog’s mind with mind puzzles, obedience work, and fun stuff like games in the house or yard. You know you have made great progress when your dog sees another dog, and he turns his head away from the once-threatening dog and looks into your eyes, expecting a treat. Once your dog is looking at her (former) trigger and then looking expectantly up at you for a treat, you can begin to put this skill on cue. Tell your dog "watch me" every time you see another dog approaching. Your end goal is for your dog to see another dog, and remain calm, looking at you for guidance. And this will be either continuing your walk, or being allowed to interact with the other dog. Please let me know if you have additional questions. Thanks for writing in!

Hello! It sounds like she has some territorial and protective based behavior going on. Because this is such a complex issue, I am sending you an article that is packed full of information about how to help her. Please reach out if you have any additional questions. https://www.petplace.com/article/dogs/pet-behavior-training/inter-dog-territorial-aggression/