Things came to a head when a friend came round with her teenage daughter. They laughed as you rough-housed the dog, and the friend's daughter then wanted a go. You were secretly delighted, as the girl is wary of dogs and you thought it would do her self-confidence good. However, this backfired badly.
In a predictable way, the dog quickly became over excited and nipped at her arm. Unfortunately, the girl screamed and claimed the dog tried to bite. Her mother became irate and it took a deal of convincing on your part, that the dog meant no harm and was only playing.
Still, another time and another place, and things might have ended differently with a phone call to the police, so perhaps it is time to teach the dog to be gentle and not nip.
Re-educating an adult dog means you must be prepared to play act a bit, and yelp when the dog's teeth make contact with your skin, no matter how minor the incident. In addition, it helps to learn strategies for calm play and how to distract the dog out of trouble. All of this takes time, so if you have small children in the home or are worried about the dog's behavior then always seek the help of a certified dog behaviorist.
To aid the process you will need:
I recently started seeing someone. My partner has dog sat Rudy several weekends, and they get along great. When I am home, however, Rudy will nip my partner's thigh when I go in to hug or kiss him. He is wagging his tail, and does the dog bow after he nips. He also does the same thing to my roommate's girlfriend.
Hello Becky, It sounds like pup may be acting possessive of you, which is a form of resource guarding people from others, like not wanting another person to go near a favorite toy - but instead it's people they are keeping others away from. Pup also probably also doesn't recognize hugging as a normal human interaction and might think you two are doing something playful and funny and they are trying to join in - sort of like a dog running up and barking at two other dogs who are wrestling. If the behavior seems at all aggressive, I highly recommend working with a trainer who specializes in behavior issues like aggression and resource guarding in person for this issue. Look for a trainer who comes well recommended by their previous clients for working with aggression cases. I would also desensitize pup to wearing a basket muzzle, especially if aggression is present, but also if this is play based, simply to keep you from being bitten while you practice training with pup and are hugging during practice. Muzzle introduction video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KJTucFnmAbw&list=PLXtcKXk-QWojGYcl1NCg5UA5geEnmpx4a&index=6&t=0s If there is possessiveness present, this process typically involves things like gently building pup's overall respect, trust, and listening with you both so that pup doesn't think they own you and so that their behavior is easier to manage and so that they feel more secure and can defer to your leadership when in situations that make them uncomfortable. Check out the article linked below for some ways to do build those things, but I recommend only starting those things under the guidance of your trainer if aggression is present, because they will need to be done carefully and sometimes modified or certain safety measures added, to avoid a potential bite. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-doberman-to-listen-to-you With safety measures like the muzzle or a back tie leash so pup can't reach you to nip, you and your partner will practice touching each other and rewarding pup with treats when they are tolerant and calm about the touches. Start with less touch, like a standing close to the other person, a hand shake, a pat on the arm, a partial side hug, a full side hug, a frontal hug, a frontal hug where you linger for longer, a kiss, ect...After each touch if pup stays calm, reward with a treat. Use the Quiet and Leave It command if pup becomes reactive or attempts to lunge or bite (remember the back tie or basket muzzle so no bite has to occur). Leave It method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite Quiet method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bark The training can sometimes also involve interrupting pup's aroused state. Sometimes that's done using unscented air pet convincer, blown briefly at pup's side while saying "Ah Ah" calmly, followed by a repeat of the instruction, such as Quiet, and a reward for then obeying. Sometimes its done using low level stimulation or vibration from a remote training collar, also in combination with safety measures, commands like Leave It, and rewards for obedience. When interruptions are needed in the training, I generally recommend hiring a professional trainer experienced with that type of training, for at least one training session to determine and demonstrate how to do it properly with correct timing and the correct method - which is based a lot on pup's temperament and response to training. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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To get her to stop play bitting and house train her better
Hello, Check out the article linked below. Starting today, use the "Yelp" method. BUT at the same time, begin teaching "Leave It" from the "Leave It" method. As soon as pup is good as the Leave It game, start telling pup to "Leave It" when he attempts to bite or is tempted to bite. Reward pup if she makes a good choice. If she disobeys your leave it command, use the Pressure method to gently discipline pup for biting when you told her not to. The order or all of this is very important - the yelp method can be used for the next couple of weeks while pup is learning leave it, but leave it will teach pup to stop the biting entirely. The pressure method teaches pup that you mean what you say without being overly harsh - but because you have taught pup to leave it first, pup clearly understands that you are not just roughhousing. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite Another important part of this is puppy learning bite inhibition. Puppies have to learn while young how to control the pressure of their mouths - this is typically done through play with other puppies. See if there is a puppy class in your area that comes well recommended and has time for moderated off-leash puppy play. If you can't join a class, look for a free puppy play group, or recruit some friends with puppies to come over if you can and create your own group. You are looking for puppies under 6 months of age - since young puppies play differently than adult dogs. Moderate the puppies' play and whenever one pup seems overwhelmed or they are all getting too excited, interrupt their play, let everyone calm down, then let the most timid pup go first to see if they still want to play - if they do, then you can let the other puppies go too when they are waiting for permission. Finding a good puppy class - no class will be ideal but here's what to shoot for: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/puppy-classes-when-to-start/ When pup gets especially wound up, she probably needs a nap too. At this age puppies will sometimes get really hyper when they are overtired or haven't had any mental stimulation through something like training. When you spot that and think pup could be tired, place pup in their crate or an exercise pen with a food stuffed Kong for a bit to help her calm down and rest. Finally, check out the PDF e-book downloads found on this website, written by one of the founders of the association of professional dog trainers, and a pioneer in starting puppy kindergarten classes in the USA. Click on the pictures of the puppies to download the PDF books: https://www.lifedogtraining.com/freedownloads/ Know that mouthiness at this age is completely normal. It's not fun but it is normal for it to take some time for a puppy to learn self-control well enough to stop. Try not to get discouraged if you don't see instant progress, any progress and moving in the right direction in this area is good, so keep working at it. For the potty training, check out the Crate Training method from the article linked below. You can also combine the Crate Training method with the Tethering method if you want pup to be with you more, once pup is doing well with crate training and potty training. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-german-shepherd-puppy-to-poop-outside Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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Hi this is my dog artist and he knoe the basic sit and stuff but he always biting things and don’t listen all the time what do I do
Hello Emanual, By biting things do you mean he is chewing your stuff, or biting people? If he is chewing objects, check out the article I have linked below on chewing. If he isn't already crate trained, I highly recommend doing that, since this will be hard to overcome without doing so. The goal is for pup not to have to be crated while you are away forever, just until pup has gotten past the destructive chewing phase and has learned things like Leave It so can be left unsupervised. When pup chews when not confined and not supervised, pup's chewing habit is getting worse instead of better. https://www.petful.com/behaviors/train-dog-not-to-chew/ , know that what you described is normal for basic obedience, especially at this age - the initial goal is just to teach pup what a word means and motivate them to learn. What comes next is intermediate obedience. For intermediate obedience, you will gradually work up to distractions and pup developing the skills to obey in those situations too - at first the distraction might be someone walking through the room, a squirrel in the yard, a leaf blowing by, ect...Start with less distracting environments, then gradually move onto harder environments and spend intentional time practicing in each of those new environments until pup can focus there too. For example, in your home without others around is easiest, your backyard is a bit harder, your front yard is even harder, your neighborhood is even hard, your home with guests present is even harder, a pet store is even harder, ect...Go out of your way to practice at the current level pup needs to learn at and to create the distractions pup is ready to learn to overcome during training sessions when you can control things - so that pup can also respond when things are more out of your control in every day life, but keep the distraction level what pup is ready for at that point in the training so pup can still succeed with your help - the goal is to guide pup and provide consistent, calm boundaries at this point. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-german-shepherd-puppy-to-sit Some other methods to help enforce commands when pup is ready: Reel In method for Come: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-whippet-to-recall Turns method for Heel: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel If pup doesn't know these commands really well already, start by using the treat luring methods with each command before using the slightly firmer methods to proof that command once pup has learned the command and just needs to be reminded. Right now you can also keep a drag leash without a handle (for safety reasons to get caught less around the house) on pup while you are home. That way when you give a command like Come and pup ignores you, you can calmly walk over to them and lead them back to where you were - gently teaching them that they need to listen in every day life too. If there is aggressive biting present and pup isn't just chewing objects, I would need more information to address that. You may need to take additional safety measures like a basket muzzle during training and interactions right now and/or a trainer who specializes in behavior issues like aggression, and comes well recommended by their previous clients, to work with you in person and supervise training in person. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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We've had her for a week and we given her chew toys and a puppy theething ring but she is still going after toes and shoes. She's a mix with a border collie bulldog
Hello Lupita, Check out the Bite Inhibition method from the article I have linked below. I also recommend wearing house shoes around for a while, since pup is very young to be going home with you already, pup's level of self-control will take time to develop, and its developmentally normal for pup to explore and bite a lot at this age, since that's how pup would be interacting with littermates to learn about their own body, control, social skills, and the world around them. Bite Inhibition method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite Once pup is old enough, I would highly recommend joining a puppy class that has time for off-leash puppy play to help pup learn some of those social skills and control of their bite through play with other puppies. https://www.petful.com/behaviors/puppy-classes-when-to-start/ Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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I’ve had my dog for two weeks now. She is good with strangers and some of my roommates. But she hates one of my roommates. Every time he walks or stands she tries to bite at the back of his knees and she looks scared. She has her tail down and is cowering forward. Why could she be doing this and how do I stop her?
Hello Jenna, Is there anything that could appear different to your dog than the other roommates or yourself? Such as a disability, more aggressive personality, more fearful personality, or race? Dogs often trust those they become more familiar with as puppies and were socialized around. If a dog was never around someone who walked with a limp, was of Asian descent, or is louder or more aggressive in temperament that dog can lack view the unfamiliar as suspicious. Unfortunately, many dogs also find those with a fear of dogs more suspicious too, because those people tend to have different body language and smells around them than those who are confident around dogs. I recommend hiring a professional trainer to help you with this in person. Look for someone who specializes in fear and aggression. The training will likely involve determining what it is about your roommate that pup finds suspicious and desensitizing pup to people who have those traits in common, while also working on commands and routines that help manage the behavior right now. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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