Are you still getting up in the middle of the night to take your pup outside to pee? Isn't this getting a little old? What about when you have to be at work all day long, is your pup peeing on the floor and leaving you a big wet mess to clean up? What if you could train your dog to pee in the bathtub when there is no one around to take him outside.
Okay, I can already hear you saying "Eww that's gross!" But then again, how gross is it having to clean up the mess on your floor every time he pees on it? While most dogs are taught to go to the bathroom outside, which can be a hard habit to break, you can teach them to pee in the tub. It won't be easy, but in time your pup will be happy to have a place to pee inside where he won't get in trouble for doing so.
This command goes completely against your dog's training to pee outside. After all, haven't you already spent countless hours teaching him that the only place he is supposed to pee, or for that matter poop, is outside? Of course, you could always use a crate to prevent your pup peeing on the floor, but your dog doesn't deserve to spend hour upon hour locked up.
There is no real command here, it is in all reality more about teaching your pup a new behavior. One that will keep him out of trouble and allow him to relieve himself when needed, rather than trying to hold it in for longer than he should be doing. Take your time and be patient, it will happen.
When it comes to training your pup to pee in the bathtub, or for that matter a shower stall, the biggest thing you will need is plenty of patience and time in order to make this training stick. You will need a few supplies to get things off to a good start. Which ones you need will depend on the method of training you decide to use. Among these are:
Trying to train dog to pee and poop in shower. How can i do this?
Hello JJ, First you will need to make sure that Coco has access to the shower if you want your dog to go there on his own when he needs to eliminate. If your shower is raised then you will need to create some type of ramp or stairs up to the shower and then down into the shower, and will need to leave the door open to the shower. If the shower is easily accessed then just leaving the door open should work. Use whatever material Coco is used to peeing and pooping on now, to transition him to the shower. If he normally goes on grass outside, then use a piece of grass sod, or if he normally goes on pee pads then use those to train. It can be anything that he already associates with eliminating. Place a foot by foot area of that type of material in the shower. Crate your dog, and every two hours take him into the shower, onto that material, and tell him to "Go potty". If he goes, then praise him and give him a treat. If he does not, then take him back to the crate, and try again in thirty minutes. Repeat this until your dog will go in the shower on the material. To make this easier for your dog, you can also purchase a spray designed to encourage elimination, it is usually in the house breaking or puppy section of your local pet store, and called "Training Spray", "Hurry Spray", or something similar. Spray that spray onto the material in your shower right before you bring your dog over to it, and then let him sniff where you sprayed it when he arrives. If your dog is used to holding his bladder for long periods of time during the day while in the crate, then you can continue to do that, so that he will not have an accident inside your home, while teaching this, but whenever you are home take him to the shower every two hours, and only give him freedom in your home when he has peed or pooped during the last two hours, and is unlikely to have an accident. When your dog will consistently use the bathroom on the material in the shower, then gradually decrease the amount of material or the size of the material over the course of a month. Do this until your dog will eliminate in the shower without any material in there. Go slowly with decreasing the material, taking away only a couple of inches at a time. Again, keep your dog confined unless he has eliminated in the past two hours, until he begins to go to the shower when he needs to eliminate on his own. Every two hours, when your dog is not in the crate, take your dog to the shower, to show him where to go, and reward him if he goes potty. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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We have moved to snowy mountain area and can have up to 6 feet of snow surrounding the house. Coco is >9 lbs! If I can train her to use shower, what is best solution for cleaning shower that does not deter her sensitive doggie nose, but disinfects at same time?
Hello Anita Jo, Check out Whip It. It is safe to use on most household surfaces, including showers, is actually enzyme based so it should break down poop and pee to remove the smell fully, and is advertised as being disinfecting and germ killing. The link below is to a concentrate bottle. That bottle should make up to thirty-two diluted spray bottles. Making the price less expensive than the product appears to be. It's also advertised as being non-toxic, making is safe to use around Coco. The smell is not strong, but if she has issues with it, then hydrogen peroxide in a spray bottle or vinegar in a spray bottle can also be used, but won't do all of those things that I mentioned Whip It would do. I do not sell Whip It myself, but have used it personally. https://www.amazon.com/Whip-Concentrate-Multi-Purpose-Stain-Remover/dp/B00DKEWA92 Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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My puppy scratches walls and starts barking every couple of hours. I go to office and my father-in-law really has a hard time keeping him calm. He is excessively naughty and bites while playing. What can I do to keep him calm while I am away?
Hello Nisha, First, if he is not already crate trained, I would highly suggest doing that. Start by getting him used to the crate over the weekend and for a bit in the evenings when you are home from work. To crate train, check out the article that I have linked below. https://wagwalking.com/training/like-a-crate Once Bruno is crate trained, if he was not already, then when your father-in-law needs a break or Bruno is acting a bit crazy, which is normal for puppies at times, put him into a strong Exercise Pen or crate and give him a really great food stuffed chew toy. The article above includes instructions for how to stuff a large Kong toy to make the toy more interesting. If he barks, make sure that you spent time getting him familiar with the crate beforehand like the article above mentions. If you have done that, then your father-in-law can correct the barking with a Pet Convincer, which is a small canister of unscented, pressurized air. When he barks, have your father-in-law tell him "Ah-Ah" and if he continues, have him squirt a small puff of air at his side to surprise him, to stop the barking, then have your father-in-law leave again. Do not spray him in the face. If Bruno remains quiet for five minutes, have your father-in-law return to him and sprinkle a bunch of treats into the crate as a reward for being quiet, and then leave again. As Bruno improves, your father-in-law can have him go longer and longer before occasionally rewarding him for being quiet, until the food stuffed chew toy is his only reward and he has learned to quietly and calmly rest in the crate and entertain himself with the chew toy. https://wagwalking.com/training/like-a-crate Also, make sure that he is being exercised a couple of times per day. He needs not just physical exercise but also mental exercise to challenge his brain. Structured walks, where you practice heeling and other obedience, like sit, down, and attention are good for accomplishing both. Games of fetch, where you make him sit and incorporate obedience commands into the game are good. Twenty-minute training sessions, where he is having to focus and learn something new or hard for him, are good. If you do not have the time to do this yourself, you might want to consider hiring a dog walker or trainer or sending him to a good doggie daycare part of the days. Also, look up automatic treat dispensing devices for when he is loose in the house. AutoTrainer and PetTutor are two such devices. These devices are filled with your dog's dry dog food, and then a piece is occasionally released to your dog to automatically reward him for being quiet and calm. This can give him something to work on and help him learn how to be calm. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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Hi Caitlin, as we’re moving to a new apartment soon and we’re thinking about training our dog to pee in the bathtub, we are worried about the pee that would stain the bathtub over a period of time. Is there anything you would recommend to use for cleaning? Or are there any preventions of stains? Thank you.
Hello Faye, Check out the cleaner "Whit It" which can be bought online on places like amazon. It is an enzymatic cleaner so should break down the pee at a molecular level. It is also non-toxic, removes smell, and deals with tough build up well if you let it soak. If you do get stains despite using an enzymatic cleaner, using a magic eraser to clean your tub occasionally should also help. The most important thing will be to rinse the bathtub after he pees so that the urine does not just sit in the tub for too long. I suggest purchasing a handheld shower sprayer to attach to the current shower head to make spraying the tub clean easier. If your tub is made of porcelain a pumice stone may also help when cleaning the bathtub. I do not know of an effective way to prevent the stains other than cleaning it routinely enough and spraying fresh urine down the tub with water. Most preventatives involve putting a chemical in water in something like a toilet bowl or mixing it into the water source that washes the urine away, but having your dog stand in water and chemicals to pee is not something I would recommend because of difficulty with training that and the chemical irritation. You might be able to create something that mixes with the water in your shower head when you go to rinse the tub, to automatically add the enzymes to break down the pee while it gets washed away. Simply spraying the tub with water first, then spraying it with the enzymatic cleaner quickly would be almost as fast though. Cleaning male urinals in public restrooms would be the most similar situation stain-wise because of how the urine sits on the urinal instead of in water like a toilet. Many urinals with tough stains are actually cleaned with enzymatic pet stain removers like "whip It" or "Urine Away". Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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My dog has peed in the tub on his own a few times but it's not a very clean thing because he gets his feet wet and then jumps out of the tub onto the floor and bathmats. He has even stopped and licked his feet before leaving the bathroom. That's very unsanitary.
If it were going to work(I'm sure it won't because he isn't housebroken and goes in the most convenient spot if allowed) there would need to be some kind of tub mat with drainage holes and suction cups under it so it would be raised a little. Then he wouldn't be standing on top of the liquid. As he jumps out of the tub, there would need to be an appropriate mat on the floor to absorb any residue of urine that may exist on his feet.
Hello Susan, Look into horse stall mats and kennel run mats with drainage for the tub, such as the video linked below - this would need to be rinsed off quickly in the tub at the end of the day using a shower hose attachment to help it stay cleaner: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HgH6l-ElDhk Check out this article for some ideas for a mat. I would suggest something highly absorbent that is kind of thick so that the mat surrounds his paws a bit to clean the sides off too. Having a longer, runner type mat should also help too because then he will have to step on it several times before leaving the bathroom - absorbing more moisture with each step. https://www.bustle.com/p/the-6-most-absorbent-bath-rugs-2910275 Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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my dog doesn't want to pee or poop unless he is outdoor
Hello Seng, I suggest purchasing disposable real grass pads (enough to cover the tub floor) or a couple of pieces of sod. Fill the bottom of the tub with those, then crate or tether pup to yourself anytime their bladder is full before it's time to take them to go potty. Take pup potty every 3-4 hours to the tub. Tell them to Go Potty. If they go, praise and reward with several treats, one at a time. If they do not go, tether pup to yourself or crate pup for 1 hour, then try taking pup again. Repeat the trips to the tub and the tethering or crating between, until pup finally goes potty in the tub when you take them. Be sure to praise enthusiastically and reward well whenever they do go in the right spot. Once pup has developed a habit of going potty quickly when taken to the tub, gradually remove the grass over the course of a month. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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I need him to learn peeing and potty in bathroom
Hello! I am sending you quite a bit of information on potty and crate training just in case you want to use the crate to help with potty training. Potty training: Know Your Pup. As you spend time with your puppy, learn your puppy’s love language. Just as some people prefer gifts, touch, or time spent together, puppies can be the same way. Some puppies love praise or pets, while others prefer treats. As you get to know your puppy, consider what reward your puppy loves the most. Create a Daily Schedule. It is best to have a routine for your puppy. A schedule helps them understand when to eat, play, and “go to the bathroom.” Your puppy should go out frequently and the routine should be the same every time. When? Start the day by taking your puppy outside, and repeating based on age and ability. They should also go out after napping, chewing, playing, and within 10 to 15 minutes of eating. Although some puppies can sleep for seven hours, it is important to set an alarm and take your pup out during the night. When you do, don’t make a fuss about it. Quietly take them outside with minimal stimulation and light. Praise them if they go to the bathroom and gently return them to their bed or crate. You don’t want them to get stimulated and ready to play in the middle of the night! As you get to know your puppy, you will become aware of their individual habits. Click here to learn more about house training schedules for puppies. Where? Take your puppy to a specific area to urinate or defecate. Be consistent. You can create an area by using urine-soaked paper or bowel movements to help create an aroma to stimulate your puppy. How? Take your puppy out on a leash so they can focus on the desired activity. This will help prevent them from wandering off to play. Once your puppy is in the selected area, use your verbal cue, such as “Hurry Up,” “Poopies,” “Go tinkle,” or any phrase your puppy responds to. What? Know the signs that your puppy has to go to the bathroom. Every animal may have a different “I gotta go” gesture, which often include restlessness, sniffing around, circling, scratching at the door, barking, and, eventually, squatting. At the first sign that your pup has to go, calmly and quickly take them outside to their bathroom spot. Deal with Accidents. Accidents are a normal part of house training a puppy. What to Do If you see your puppy in the process of urinating or defecating inappropriately, calmly and quickly interrupt them in the act. Tell them to stop (either by a jarring sound or command), and immediately take them to an appropriate location for elimination. After your puppy goes to the bathroom, lavishly praise them and offer a treat. Thoroughly clean up accidents, so your puppy is not attracted to this area again. Create a consistent feeding and watering schedule. Depending on the age of your puppy, they will eat three to four times a day. A consistent feeding routine can create a regular bathroom schedule. Take away water about 2 hours before bedtime. Learn more about ideal dog schedules here. What NOT to Do Don’t punish your puppy when they have an accident. At that point, it is too late. When a puppy has an accident in the house and they walk away, within seconds they have already forgotten about what they did. Taking them to the scene of the crime and yelling and/or rubbing their nose in it does not help and, in fact, can harm your puppy! Supervise. The best thing you can do is to prevent accidents and the best way to do this is to supervise your puppy at all times. You can tether your puppy to your waist with a five or six-foot leash and carefully observe them for signs that they need to go to the bathroom. If you can’t supervise, then crate or confine your puppy. The more accidents your puppy has in the house, the more confusing it will be for them and this can delay house training. Reward, Reward, Reward. It is important to give your puppy a reward for their good behavior. This can be for commands such as sitting and coming to you, or for appropriately eliminating outside. In a puppy, a reward can be a couple kibbles of puppy food or a treat, such as a small piece of meat. The treat should be exciting for them and only available as a result of good behavior. Crate training can take days or weeks, depending on your dog's age, temperament and past experiences. It's important to keep two things in mind while crate training: The crate should always be associated with something pleasant and training should take place in a series of small steps. Don't go too fast. Step 1: Introduce your dog to the crate Place the crate in an area of your house where the family spends a lot of time, such as the family room. Put a soft blanket or towel in the crate. Take the door off and let the dog explore the crate at their leisure. Some dogs will be naturally curious and start sleeping in the crate right away. If yours isn't one of them: Bring them over to the crate and talk to them in a happy tone of voice. Make sure the crate door is open and secured so that it won't hit your dog and frighten them. Encourage your dog to enter the crate by dropping some small food treats nearby, then just inside the door, and finally, all the way inside the crate. If they refuse to go all the way in at first, that's OK; don't force them to enter. Continue tossing treats into the crate until your dog will walk calmly all the way into the crate to get the food. If they aren’t interested in treats, try tossing a favorite toy in the crate. This step may take a few minutes or as long as several days. Step 2: Feed your dog meals in the crate After introducing your dog to the crate, begin feeding them their regular meals near the crate. This will create a pleasant association with the crate. If your dog is readily entering the crate when you begin Step 2, place the food dish all the way at the back of the crate. If they remain reluctant to enter, put the dish only as far inside as they will readily go without becoming fearful or anxious. Each time you feed them, place the dish a little further back in the crate. Once your dog is standing comfortably in the crate to eat their meal, you can close the door while they’re eating. The first time you do this, open the door as soon as they finish their meal. With each successive feeding, leave the door closed a few minutes longer, until they’re staying in the crate for 10 minutes or so after eating. If they begin to whine to be let out, you may have increased the length of time too quickly. Next time, try leaving them in the crate for a shorter time period. If they do whine or cry in the crate, don’t let them out until they stop. Otherwise, they'll learn that the way to get out of the crate is to whine, so they'll keep doing it. Step 3: Practice with longer crating periods After your dog is eating their regular meals in the crate with no sign of fear or anxiety, you can confine them there for short time periods while you're home. Call them over to the crate and give them a treat. Give them a command to enter, such as "crate." Encourage them by pointing to the inside of the crate with a treat in your hand. After your dog enters the crate, praise them, give them the treat and close the door. Sit quietly near the crate for five to 10 minutes and then go into another room for a few minutes. Return, sit quietly again for a short time and then let them out. Repeat this process several times a day, gradually increasing the length of time you leave them in the crate and the length of time you're out of sight. Once your dog will stay quietly in the crate for about 30 minutes with you mostly out of sight, you can begin leaving them crated when you're gone for short time periods and/or letting them sleep there at night. This may take several days or weeks. Step 4, Part A: Crate your dog when you leave After your dog can spend about 30 minutes in the crate without becoming anxious or afraid, you can begin leaving them crated for short periods when you leave the house. Put them in the crate using your regular command and a treat. You might also want to leave them with a few safe toys in the crate. Vary the moment during your "getting ready to leave" routine that you put your dog in the crate. Although they shouldn't be crated for a long time before you leave, you can crate them anywhere from five to 20 minutes prior to leaving. Don't make your departures emotional and prolonged—they should be matter-of-fact. Praise your dog briefly, give them a treat for entering the crate and then leave quietly. When you return home, don't reward your dog for excited behavior by responding to them in an enthusiastic way. Keep arrivals low-key to avoid increasing their anxiety over when you will return. Continue to crate your dog for short periods from time to time when you're home so they don't associate crating with being left alone. Step 4, Part B: Crate your dog at night Put your dog in the crate using your regular command and a treat. Initially, it may be a good idea to put the crate in your bedroom or nearby in a hallway, especially if you have a puppy. Puppies often need to go outside to eliminate during the night and you'll want to be able to hear your puppy when they whine to be let outside. Older dogs should also initially be kept nearby so they don't associate the crate with social isolation. Once your dog is sleeping comfortably through the night with the crate near you, you can begin to gradually move it to the location you prefer, although time spent with your dog—even sleep time—is a chance to strengthen the bond between you and your pet. Potential problems Whining: If your dog whines or cries while in the crate at night, it may be difficult to decide whether they’re whining to be let out of the crate, or whether they need to be let outside to eliminate. If you've followed the training procedures outlined above, then your dog hasn't been rewarded for whining in the past by being released from their crate. If that is the case, try to ignore the whining. If your dog is just testing you, they'll probably stop whining soon. Yelling at them or pounding on the crate will only make things worse. If the whining continues after you've ignored them for several minutes, use the phrase they associate with going outside to eliminate. If they respond and become excited, take them outside. This should be a trip with a purpose, not play time. If you're convinced that your dog doesn't need to eliminate, the best response is to ignore them until they stop whining. Don't give in; if you do, you'll teach your dog to whine loud and long to get what they want. If you've progressed gradually through the training steps and haven't done too much too fast, you'll be less likely to encounter this problem. If the problem becomes unmanageable, you may need to start the crate training process over again. Separation anxiety: Attempting to use the crate as a remedy for separation anxiety won't solve the problem. A crate may prevent your dog from being destructive, but they may get injured in an attempt to escape. Separation anxiety problems can only be resolved with counterconditioning and desensitization procedures.
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