How to Train Your Rescue Dog to Poop Outside

Easy
1-3 Weeks
General

Introduction

You’re not quite sure about his past. You don’t know what’s happened to him in his life or necessarily how he’s ended up here, but you do know the rescue dog you've recently adopted hasn’t been well trained. You come down in the morning, half asleep and you step in dog mess. It’s not how you want to start your day and it definitely doesn’t make the house smell too good either. At least if you step in it you know it will be cleared up properly, but if the kids step in it, you may find dog poop all over the house as they walk around after doing a half-hearted cleanup.

Training him to poop outside will remove this problem entirely. No longer will you have to worry about getting dog poop out of your carpets. No longer will your house smell rather unpleasant. You’ll also stop the spread of potentially harmful bacteria. 

Defining Tasks

The good news is that even if he’s new to your home after years of being able to go to the toilet wherever he wants, you can still train your dog to go outside. You need to look at his routine and make sure he’s always outside when he needs to go. You’ll also need to find ways of incentivizing him to go outside and making him feel relaxed and comfortable. If he’s younger then he should respond to training quickly and you may see results in just a week. If he’s older, scared and not so keen to learn, you may need up to three weeks.

Succeeding with this training could stop your kids and other pets getting ill from the bacteria. Which in turn could save you from expensive vet and medical bills. You also won’t have to worry about getting up before your guests anymore!

Getting Started

Before you set to work you’ll need a few things. Make sure you have some tasty treats to motivate and reward him. Make sure you can take him to a familiar spot outside each day too.

The main component though will be time. You need to be able to take him outside several times a day, every day. You can also rope other members of the household into training too.

Once you have all of the above, just bring a can-do attitude and you can get to work!

The Routine Method

Effective
0 Votes
Step
1
Every morning
When you wake up in the morning, give him his breakfast, wait 15 minutes and then head out. If you always give him his meal at the same time each morning, his body clock will soon become regular. That way you can always make sure you’re outside when he needs to go.
Step
2
Every evening
Again, 15 minutes or so after his evening meal, take him outside to go to the toilet. If you’re always outside when he needs to go, he’ll have no choice but to go outside. You can also take him out a couple of times in the day to make sure he doesn’t go about his business then.
Step
3
Location
Try and take him to a similar spot each day. He may be scared and nervous as a rescue dog, so you need to make him feel as relaxed as possible. Taking him to the same spot will put him at ease and he’ll be more inclined to go.
Step
4
Reward
When he does go, make sure you give him a tasty treat. You need to really make it clear that he’s done the right thing. The greater the reward, the more likely he’ll be to go outside next time. You could even spend a minute or so playing around with a toy afterwards.
Step
5
Consistency
The key to success is a consistent routine. Once he’s into the habit of going outside he won’t think or want to go inside. Plus, if you’re always outside after meals anyway he won’t be able to go on your clean, new floors.
Recommend training method?

The At Ease Method

Effective
0 Votes
Step
1
After meals
Try and take him outside at the same times each day. His bowel movements will probably see to it that he needs to go about 20 minutes after a meal, so try and always be outside then. If he knows he’s about to go outside he’ll start holding it.
Step
2
Privacy
Don’t stare at him when he’s sniffing around and about to go. If he’s timid he needs to feel as relaxed as possible. Instead, turn around until he’s finished. This will all help make him feel comfortable, especially to start with.
Step
3
Previous poo
If he still seems too shy to go outside, you may need to take an extra step to put him at ease. If you wipe some previous excrement in the location you take him to, he’ll be more likely to think of this spot as a toilet. Taking him to the same spot each day will also help with that.
Step
4
Reward
It’s imperative he always gets a tasty reward after he’s been for a poop. The tastier the treat, the quicker he’ll learn. Once he’s got into the hang of going outside, you can slowly cut out the treats.
Step
5
Never punish him
If he does go inside, make sure you don’t shout at him. If he’s terrified, he may start going about his business out of fear. Instead, calmly and quietly clear it up. Make sure you use anti-bacterial spray. Any smell of poop may encourage him to go inside next time.
Recommend training method?

The Supervision Method

Effective
0 Votes
Step
1
Always react
If you see him sniffing around or circling, then you know a poop is fast approaching. You need to quickly secure him to a leash and head outside. If you do this every time he’ll soon realise pooping inside is no longer allowed.
Step
2
‘NO’
If you do catch him already going inside, say ‘NO’ in a firm voice, repeatedly. You don’t want to scare him, but he needs to know you’re not happy. Then remove him and put him outside while you thoroughly clean away the mess. Do this every time and he’ll soon get the message.
Step
3
Schedule toilet breaks
To start with try and take him out several times throughout the day. If he knows he’s likely to be taken out soon then he’ll be more able to hold it. It’s particularly important he goes out first thing in the morning and evening, as well as after meals.
Step
4
Slowly increase the time
As he gets into the habit of only pooping outside, you can slowly increase the time between toilet breaks. He knows he’s going out anyway, his bowel muscles will slowly strengthen and you’ll be able to take him out less.
Step
5
Don’t play with him
It’s important that until he’s gone for his poop, you don’t speak to him. His attention needs to be solely on going about his business. If he expects you to talk and play with him then going to the toilet will be at the back of his mind. It’s also motivation for him to go as quickly as possible so he can enjoy spending time with you.
Recommend training method?

Success Stories and Training Questions

Training Questions and Answers

Question
Rocchi
cockapoo
1 Year
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Question
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Rocchi
cockapoo
1 Year

No matter when I take him outside, he never poops outside. Sometimes he’ll poop the second we get back in.

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Hobo
Labrador Retriever
1 Year
1 found helpful
Question
1 found helpful
Hobo
Labrador Retriever
1 Year

I recently adopted Hobo from the Humane Society. From what I understood his previous human left him in the cage - even if she was home and let him go wherever. Now I have only been able to get him to successfully pee outside once and all the other times Hobo has gone when I am not looking or not home (in his crate while I am at work). I now have noticed that he is eating his poop if he pooped in his cage. How do I go about changing these habits and let him know he doesn't have to fear going to the bathroom around me (as long as we are outside)?

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
833 Dog owners recommended

Hello Alexandra, While you are at home I suggest using the "Tethering" method from the article linked below. Since he is older you might be able to make potty trips a bit less frequent than the article says, but only if he stays accident free with potty trips more spaced out. Tethering method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-german-shepherd-puppy-to-poop-outside When you are gone you have two options: 1. Get him used to wearing a doggie diaper and have him wear that while you are gone. If you can get him used to wearing this then it may keep him from wanting to go potty inside and will keep him from eating his poop. If he does go potty in the diaper, then I suggest confining him to an exercise pen in a room that he does not normally have accidents in so that any "accidents" in his mind are happening only in that space and not in the rest of the house (since he will be tethered to you when you are home. Introduce the diaper with lots of treats while putting it on, let him wear it around long enough for him to get used to the feel of it - like a puppy getting used to a collar. Distract him with a training session, game, or toy if he starts to bother it. This will be easiest to work on on a day when you are home most of the day. If he still takes the diaper off, look into something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Surgi-Snuggly-Washable-Disposable-Diapers/dp/B07G2V7YJP/ref=asc_df_B07G2V7YJP/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309777342402&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15258599578908258461&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9010791&hvtargid=pla-569248346528&psc=1 Option 2. Teach him to use a teach grass pad inside of an exercise pen. Again, put the exercise pen in a room where he normally won't go in, keep him tethered to yourself while you are home, and use the "Exercise Pen" method from the article linked below. I suggest using a "real grass pad" for this instead of pee pads or a litter box - this article mentions litter box training but the same steps can also be used for other pads: Exercise Pen method - because your end goal is pottying outside you will not phase the exercise pens out eventually, but will just go straight to only pottying outside and no longer using the grass pads or letting him into the area where they used to be kept, once he is potty trained at other times. https://wagwalking.com/training/litter-box-train-a-chihuahua-puppy Disposable grass pads: https://www.amazon.com/Fresh-Patch-Disposable-Potty-Grass/dp/B005G7S6UI/ref=asc_df_B005G7S6UI/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309763115430&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4628430177348674255&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1015431&hvtargid=pla-568582223506&psc=1 Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Question
Princess
Boxer Mix
2 Years
0 found helpful
Question
0 found helpful
Princess
Boxer Mix
2 Years

We picked up our rescue dog on Monday. We cannot get her to poop outside. I have been able to get her to pee outside 3 times, but she has pooped in our apartment twice. What are some things I can do to get her to poop outside? I think she may be nervous to poop outside, and she doesn't seem treat motivated right now.

Thanks.

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
833 Dog owners recommended

Hello Bailey, First, I suggest crate training her or tethering her to yourself when you are not confident she is not 100% empty, to prevent accidents inside to provide changes to get her to poop outside. I also suggest simply spending time with her outside outside of potty trips. Sit outside for 30 minutes to 1 hour often. Read a book in the shade (make sure she stays cool enough), play fun games with her like tug, practice tricks and commands or treat hiding games with food if she relaxes enough to eat. This time is meant to be fun and relaxing and frequent enough that outside becomes normal - even if that means boring. As she gets familiar with outside, relaxing enough to go potty out there during trips should get easier. To crate train and learn more about tethering, check out the Crate Training method and Tethering method from the article linked below. Make sure that the crate doesn't have anything absorbent in it - including a soft bed or towel. Check out something like www.primopads.com if you need a non-absorbent bed for her. Make sure the crate is only big enough for her to turn around, lie down and stand up, and not so big that she can potty in one end and stand in the opposite end to avoid it. Dogs have a natural desire to keep a confined space clean so it needs to be the right size to encourage that natural desire. Use a cleaner that contains enzymes to clean any previous or current accidents - only enzymes will remove the small and remaining smells encourage the dog to potty in the same location again later. The method I have linked below was written for younger puppies, since your dog is older you can adjust the times and take her potty less frequently. I suggest taking her potty every 3 hours when you are home. After 1.5 hours (or less if she has an accident sooner) or freedom out of the crate, return her to the crate while her bladder is filling back up again until it has been 3 hours since her last potty trip. When you have to go off she should be able to hold her bladder in the crate for 5-7 hours - less at first while she is getting used to it and longer once she is accustomed to the crate. Only have her wait that long when you are not home though, take her out about every 3 hours while home. You want her to get into the habit of holder her bladder between trips and not just eliminating whenever she feels the urge and you want to encourage that desire for cleanliness in your home - which the crate is helpful for. Less freedom now means more freedom later in life. Crate Training method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-german-shepherd-puppy-to-poop-outside That method will have additional steps on getting her to poop outside - follow those steps too, which includes using scent, keeping her moving using a leash for potty trips, teaching Go Potty, and what to do when she doesn't go potty. If she is not already used to a crate expect crying at first. When she cries and you know she doesn't need to go potty yet, ignore the crying. Most dogs will adjust if you are consistent. You can give her a food stuffed hollow chew toy to help her adjust and sprinkle treats into the crate during times of quietness to further encourage quietness. If she continues protesting for long periods of time past three days, you can use a Pet Convincer. Work on teaching "Quiet" but using the Quiet method from the article linked below. Tell her "Quiet" when she barks and cries. If she gets quiet and stays quiet, you can sprinkle a few pieces of dog food into the crate through the wires calmly, then leave again. If she disobeys your command and keep crying or stops but starts again, spray a small puff of air from the Pet convincer at her side through the crate while saying "Ah Ah" calmly, then leave again. If she stays quiet after you leave you can periodically sprinkle treats into the crate to reward her quietness. Quiet method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bark Only use the unscented air from the Pet Convincers - don't use citronella, it's too harsh and lingers for too long so can be confusing. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Daisy
Cocker Spaniel
5 Years
0 found helpful
Question
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Daisy
Cocker Spaniel
5 Years

We’re beginning our 3rd week with our rescue, Daisy. The biggest issue is her not peeing and pooping in our yard on a leash (no fence yet) consistently though she’s being fed at the same time. We’ve walked her around our house outdoors if she hasn’t gone and still nothing. She has a stubborn side with going to the bathroom, not wanting to budge- we have to encourage her to walk as other neighbor dogs are barking at times. We take her out minutes after eating but she won’t do anything outside. She had 3 pee accidents since she’s arrived, when we’re home. She’s able to hold it overnight in her crate and has no accidents in the room she’s gated in where she stays with her open crate. Any advice? Winter is here and standing outdoors in these temps and winds are rough.
Thank you for your help.
Sincerely, Jill

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
833 Dog owners recommended

Hello Jill, It sounds like Daisy might be afraid of being outside. First, I would consider getting her a warm dog coat that is actually made for active dogs and not just for looks. Look into brands like rough wear that are more functional and warm. Comfort and the cold could be part of the issue but you will probably need it too for what I am about to suggest. Because pup seems scared of the neighbor dogs and generally being outside, she isn't going to want to go potty out there being going potty puts her in a vulnerable situation. As unpleasant as it may be, you need to bundle up, put her coat on her, and simply spend time outside with her doing pleasant things with her. Practice hiding large treats on the ground near her for her to find, see if you can get her interested in a little game like tug or two-foot throw fetch with a toy while on leash, reward her with treats for any calmness and relaxing while outside. Simply hang out outside in a chair with her so that the sights and sounds become normal to her - rewarding her for any good reactions with confident praise, treats, and fun. All this is to get her confidence up while outside. As far as potty training itself, continue to take her potty on the leash. Walk her around slowly and encourage her to sniff, take her to the calmest location you can within reason. Tell her to "Go Potty". If she goes, give her three small treats or pieces of dog food - one piece at a time. If she also needs to poop, after she pees and eats the treats, tell her to "Go Potty" again and walk her around again slowly. Give her three more treats if she poops. If she doesn't go potty outside within 15 minutes, take her back inside and put her into the crate, then try taking her outside again every hour, until she finally goes potty outside when you take her. Put her back in the crate each time she doesn't go until she finally goes. The success of this will be helped a lot by simply spending fun time outside desensitizing her to being outside at other times too. This will be more work and time up front in order to get over the hump of her potty outside more quickly so that you are ultimately spending less time outside and on potty training in the long run. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Zoey
Black Lab
8 Months
1 found helpful
Question
1 found helpful
Zoey
Black Lab
8 Months

I adopted my baby from SPCA.her eating schedule is regular she goes out 15min after her meals but absolutely refuses to go when we are outside I wait about 15min and then she always goes as soon as we go back inside

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
833 Dog owners recommended

Hello Joyful, Pup needs to be put into a crate when you bring her back inside after she has NOT gone potty outside, then try again 30 minutes later. Repeat this cycle until she finally goes potty when you take her outside. Check out the Crate Training method from the article linked below. Make sure that the crate doesn't have anything absorbent in it - including a soft bed or towel. Check out www.primopads.com if you need a non-absorbent bed for her. Make sure the crate is only big enough for her to turn around, lie down and stand up, and not so big that she can potty in one end and stand in the opposite end to avoid it. Dogs have a natural desire to keep a confined space clean so it needs to be the right size to encourage that natural desire. Use a cleaner that contains enzymes to clean any previous or current accidents - only enzymes will remove the small and remaining smells encourage the dog to potty in the same location again later. The method I have linked below was written for younger puppies, since your dog is older you can adjust the times and take her potty less frequently. I suggest taking her potty every 3 hours when you are home. After 1.5 hours (or less if she has an accident sooner) or freedom out of the crate, return her to the crate while her bladder is filling back up again until it has been 3 hours since her last potty trip. When you have to go off she should be able to hold her bladder in the crate for 5-7 hours - less at first while she is getting used to it and longer once she is accustomed to the crate. Only have her wait that long when you are not home though, take her out about every 3 hours while home. You want her to get into the habit of holder her bladder between trips and not just eliminating whenever she feels the urge and you want to encourage that desire for cleanliness in your home - which the crate is helpful for. Less freedom now means more freedom later in life. Crate Training method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-german-shepherd-puppy-to-poop-outside If she is not already used to a crate expect crying at first. When she cries and you know she doesn't need to go potty yet, ignore the crying. Most dogs will adjust if you are consistent. You can give her a food stuffed hollow chew toy to help her adjust and sprinkle treats into the crate during times of quietness to further encourage quietness. If she continues protesting for long periods of time past three days, you can use a Pet Convincer. Work on teaching "Quiet" but using the Quiet method from the article linked below. Tell her "Quiet" when she barks and cries. If she gets quiet and stays quiet, you can sprinkle a few pieces of dog food into the crate through the wires calmly, then leave again. If she disobeys your command and keep crying or stops but starts again, spray a small puff of air from the Pet convincer at her side through the crate while saying "Ah Ah" calmly, then leave again. If she stays quiet after you leave you can periodically sprinkle treats into the crate to reward her quietness. Quiet method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bark Only use the unscented air from the Pet Convincers - don't use citronella, it's too harsh and lingers for too long so can be confusing. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Question
Layla
Beagle mix
2 Years
0 found helpful
Question
0 found helpful
Layla
Beagle mix
2 Years

We rescued Layla about 2 weeks ago. We didn’t get much information about her past, just that she’s had puppies recently. She took ~40 hours after we rescued her before she peed for the first time and ~48 hours before her first poo. Since then, we’ve been taking her out every hour and spending time with her, but she just wants to roll around in the grass and won’t go to the bathroom, even though she’s been eating her meals and drinking water. We were told she is crate trained and have been leaving her periodically in the crate, never for longer than a couple of hours. She now only goes to the bathroom in the crate. We made the space smaller- just enough for her to lay down comfortably and she is still messing her crate. She’ll lift the mat up and poop on the tray and then put the mat down to cover her mess so she can still lay down. She will also pee on the mat and just lay in her own pee. We don’t know if she was used to this in her past. We aren’t sure how to get her to go outside. We take her out every hour and spend 10-15 minutes with her but she won’t go. We can’t take her on walks- she is still too anxious about being on a leash and leaving the house .

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
833 Dog owners recommended

Hello Sydney, First, check out www.primopads.com and use a bed like that in the crate - which is non-absorbent and can be tethered down with the included zipties, so that she can't lift up a mat and cover it again, which should help to discourage at least pooping in there. When you take her potty outside, calmly tell her to "Go Potty" and walk her around slowly on the leash in a distraction free environment. The movement is important for stimulating the need to go. Do this for up to 20 minutes. If she goes potty, quietly praise and give seven small treats or pieces of kibble, one at a time to make it more fun. Do this every time she goes potty to teach the Go Potty command and encourage going potty outside. When she doesn't go, go back inside and return to the crate for one hour. Making those adjustments, in addition to continuing to spend relaxing, fun time outside with her in general to help overcome fears of being outside so she will relax enough while outside to go potty, may help. The issue could also be a fear of going potty in front of you. If so, you can try taking her potty on a 30 foot training leash (not retractable - no pressure on the neck while taking her out), and tossing treats over to her if she goes potty. As she improves, you can gradually coil up the leash until finally she will go in front of you on just 6 feet of leash - at which point you can switch back to a normal leash. If the above does not solve the issue, you will need to switch potty training techniques. Check out the Tethering method from the article linked below. Whenever someone is home, use the Tethering method. When you must be away and at night while asleep, set up an exercise pen in a room that can be closed off later (she will learn that this room is okay to potty in, so choose carefully a room that can be closed off later, like a guest bathroom or laundry room with appliances turned off). Place a disposable real grass pad in an exercise pen in that room. Follow the Exercise Pen method from the article linked below, but instead of phasing the exercise pen out and making the area bigger, you will keep the pen as it is until she is fully potty trained due to tethering while in the rest of the home, and can be left out of the pen while gone in the rest of the house and will hold it the entire time - making the pen unnecessary - at which point you will stop putting her in there. The crate can likely be reintroduced after a few months of being fully potty trained, just for travel and boarding or destructive chewing purposes, but will have to happen after pup is potty trained and not as a way to potty trained, if she has learned to go potty in the crate from her past. Exercise Pen method: https://wagwalking.com/training/litter-box-train-a-chihuahua-puppy Disposable real grass pad brands - on amazon: www.freshpatch.com www.doggielawn.com www.porchpotty.com Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Question
Rumi
Mini Dachshund
5 Months
0 found helpful
Question
0 found helpful
Rumi
Mini Dachshund
5 Months

We just began the 2nd week with our pup, Rumi. She has been doing her business in her crate during the past 2 weeks. However, when we take her for walks (twice a day as we are working), she does not pee or poo outside.

We are lost as we do not know what we should do. Should we remove the crate? We do have a pee tray which she could use when indoors but we would like to train her to do her business outdoors during her walks. We can only take her out twice a day due to the constrain in our work hours. Any suggestions?

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
833 Dog owners recommended

Hello Verlin, First, make sure that the crate doesn't have anything absorbent in it - including a soft bed or towel. Check out www.primopads.com if you need a non-absorbent bed for her. Make sure the crate is only big enough for her to turn around, lie down and stand up, and not so big that she can potty in one end and stand in the opposite end to avoid it. Dogs have a natural desire to keep a confined space clean so it needs to be the right size to encourage that natural desire. Use a cleaner that contains enzymes to clean any previous or current accidents - only enzymes will remove the small and remaining smells encourage the dog to potty in the same location again later. Check out the Crate Training article linked below for tips on how to get pup to go potty while outside - which makes accidents in the crate less likely. Also, be aware that a 5 month old puppy cannot hold her bladder for longer than about 5 hours during the day even in a crate. Any longer and she will be forced to have an accident - enough accidents and she will loose her desire to keep even the right size crate without something absorbent in it clean. Crate Training method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-german-shepherd-puppy-to-poop-outside If you are still struggling after applying the above suggestions or can't take pup out enough for her age, then unfortunately pup may have already lost her desire to hold it while in a confined space and you will need a different approach. This commonly happens when someone (like a previous owner) accidentally teaches pup to do so by placing something like a puppy pad on one end of a larger crate or confining a puppy in cage where they are forced to pee through wired flooring - like at a pet store and some shelters. There are rare puppies who simply do it anyway, even though nothing happened to teach that. In those cases you can try feeding pup her meals in there to discourage it but most of the time you simply have to switch potty training methods until she is fully potty trained - at which point you might be able to use a crate for travel again later in life. Check out the Tethering method from the article linked below. Whenever you are home, use the Tethering method. Also, set up an exercise pen in a room that you can close off access to later on (pup will learn it's okay to potty in this room so choose accordingly). A guest bathroom, laundry room, or guest bedroom with hard floor are a few options. Don't set the exercise pen up in a main area of the house like the den or kitchen if you wish to transition away from it later. Tethering method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-german-shepherd-puppy-to-poop-outside Use the Exercise Pen method from the article linked below, and instead of a litter box like the article mentions, use a real grass pad to stay consistent with teaching pup to potty on grass outside - which is far less confusing than pee pads (Don't use pee pads if the end goal is pottying outside!). If your goal is pottying outside only long term, use the Exercise Pen at night and when you are not home. When pup is older and will hold her bladder while in the rest of the house consistently, and can hold it for as long as you are gone for during the day and overnight, then remove the exercise pen and grass pad completely, close off access to the room that the pen was in so she won't go into there looking to pee, and take her potty outside only. Since she may still chew longer even after potty training, when you leave her alone, be sure to leave her in a safe area that's been puppy proofed, like a cordoned off area of the kitchen with chew toys - until she is out of the destructive chewing phases too - which typically happens between 1-2 years for most dogs with the right training. Exercise Pen method: https://wagwalking.com/training/litter-box-train-a-chihuahua-puppy Real grass pad brands - Also found on Amazon www.freshpatch.com www.doggielawn.com www.porchpotty.com You can also make your own out of a piece of grass sod cut up and a large, shallow plastic storage container. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Question
Reese
Sheprador
2 Years
0 found helpful
Question
0 found helpful
Reese
Sheprador
2 Years

We take her out about 7-10 times a day for the past 3 days since we just adopted her. She doesn't have any interest in peeing or pooping. She peed once outside in the morning and has pooped once inside and tried to poop another but I quickly grabbed her and took her outside but she did not go when we went outside. She has also peed twice inside. Once kinda sneaky and once mid playing around inside. We are trying to take her to the same spot but she just does not have the interest to outside.

Alisha Smith
Alisha S., Dog Trainer
225 Dog owners recommended

Hello! Potty training a dog of her age can be tricky, because you have no idea what her life was like before. Plus, habits are fairly ingrained into her. So the best thing to do in this situation, is to start over with potty training. Some of this information might seem remedial, but it is your best bet to wipe the slate clean and start completely fresh. I am going to send you information on both potty training and crate training. If you don't see progress within about a week with the potty training, it might be wise to implement the use of a crate to aid in this process so she doesn't keep going inside your home. Potty training: Know Your Pup. As you spend time with your puppy, learn your puppy’s love language. Just as some people prefer gifts, touch, or time spent together, puppies can be the same way. Some puppies love praise or pets, while others prefer treats. As you get to know your puppy, consider what reward your puppy loves the most. Create a Daily Schedule. It is best to have a routine for your puppy. A schedule helps them understand when to eat, play, and “go to the bathroom.” Your puppy should go out frequently and the routine should be the same every time. When? Start the day by taking your puppy outside, and repeating based on age and ability. They should also go out after napping, chewing, playing, and within 10 to 15 minutes of eating. Although some puppies can sleep for seven hours, it is important to set an alarm and take your pup out during the night. When you do, don’t make a fuss about it. Quietly take them outside with minimal stimulation and light. Praise them if they go to the bathroom and gently return them to their bed or crate. You don’t want them to get stimulated and ready to play in the middle of the night! As you get to know your puppy, you will become aware of their individual habits. Click here to learn more about house training schedules for puppies. Where? Take your puppy to a specific area to urinate or defecate. Be consistent. You can create an area by using urine-soaked paper or bowel movements to help create an aroma to stimulate your puppy. How? Take your puppy out on a leash so they can focus on the desired activity. This will help prevent them from wandering off to play. Once your puppy is in the selected area, use your verbal cue, such as “Hurry Up,” “Poopies,” “Go tinkle,” or any phrase your puppy responds to. What? Know the signs that your puppy has to go to the bathroom. Every animal may have a different “I gotta go” gesture, which often include restlessness, sniffing around, circling, scratching at the door, barking, and, eventually, squatting. At the first sign that your pup has to go, calmly and quickly take them outside to their bathroom spot. Deal with Accidents. Accidents are a normal part of house training a puppy. What to Do If you see your puppy in the process of urinating or defecating inappropriately, calmly and quickly interrupt them in the act. Tell them to stop (either by a jarring sound or command), and immediately take them to an appropriate location for elimination. After your puppy goes to the bathroom, lavishly praise them and offer a treat. Thoroughly clean up accidents, so your puppy is not attracted to this area again. Create a consistent feeding and watering schedule. Depending on the age of your puppy, they will eat three to four times a day. A consistent feeding routine can create a regular bathroom schedule. Take away water about 2 hours before bedtime. Learn more about ideal dog schedules here. What NOT to Do Don’t punish your puppy when they have an accident. At that point, it is too late. When a puppy has an accident in the house and they walk away, within seconds they have already forgotten about what they did. Taking them to the scene of the crime and yelling and/or rubbing their nose in it does not help and, in fact, can harm your puppy! Supervise. The best thing you can do is to prevent accidents and the best way to do this is to supervise your puppy at all times. You can tether your puppy to your waist with a five or six-foot leash and carefully observe them for signs that they need to go to the bathroom. If you can’t supervise, then crate or confine your puppy. The more accidents your puppy has in the house, the more confusing it will be for them and this can delay house training. Reward, Reward, Reward. It is important to give your puppy a reward for their good behavior. This can be for commands such as sitting and coming to you, or for appropriately eliminating outside. In a puppy, a reward can be a couple kibbles of puppy food or a treat, such as a small piece of meat. The treat should be exciting for them and only available as a result of good behavior. Crate training can take days or weeks, depending on your dog's age, temperament and past experiences. It's important to keep two things in mind while crate training: The crate should always be associated with something pleasant and training should take place in a series of small steps. Don't go too fast. Step 1: Introduce your dog to the crate Place the crate in an area of your house where the family spends a lot of time, such as the family room. Put a soft blanket or towel in the crate. Take the door off and let the dog explore the crate at their leisure. Some dogs will be naturally curious and start sleeping in the crate right away. If yours isn't one of them: Bring them over to the crate and talk to them in a happy tone of voice. Make sure the crate door is open and secured so that it won't hit your dog and frighten them. Encourage your dog to enter the crate by dropping some small food treats nearby, then just inside the door, and finally, all the way inside the crate. If they refuse to go all the way in at first, that's OK; don't force them to enter. Continue tossing treats into the crate until your dog will walk calmly all the way into the crate to get the food. If they aren’t interested in treats, try tossing a favorite toy in the crate. This step may take a few minutes or as long as several days. Step 2: Feed your dog meals in the crate After introducing your dog to the crate, begin feeding them their regular meals near the crate. This will create a pleasant association with the crate. If your dog is readily entering the crate when you begin Step 2, place the food dish all the way at the back of the crate. If they remain reluctant to enter, put the dish only as far inside as they will readily go without becoming fearful or anxious. Each time you feed them, place the dish a little further back in the crate. Once your dog is standing comfortably in the crate to eat their meal, you can close the door while they’re eating. The first time you do this, open the door as soon as they finish their meal. With each successive feeding, leave the door closed a few minutes longer, until they’re staying in the crate for 10 minutes or so after eating. If they begin to whine to be let out, you may have increased the length of time too quickly. Next time, try leaving them in the crate for a shorter time period. If they do whine or cry in the crate, don’t let them out until they stop. Otherwise, they'll learn that the way to get out of the crate is to whine, so they'll keep doing it. Step 3: Practice with longer crating periods After your dog is eating their regular meals in the crate with no sign of fear or anxiety, you can confine them there for short time periods while you're home. Call them over to the crate and give them a treat. Give them a command to enter, such as "crate." Encourage them by pointing to the inside of the crate with a treat in your hand. After your dog enters the crate, praise them, give them the treat and close the door. Sit quietly near the crate for five to 10 minutes and then go into another room for a few minutes. Return, sit quietly again for a short time and then let them out. Repeat this process several times a day, gradually increasing the length of time you leave them in the crate and the length of time you're out of sight. Once your dog will stay quietly in the crate for about 30 minutes with you mostly out of sight, you can begin leaving them crated when you're gone for short time periods and/or letting them sleep there at night. This may take several days or weeks. Step 4, Part A: Crate your dog when you leave After your dog can spend about 30 minutes in the crate without becoming anxious or afraid, you can begin leaving them crated for short periods when you leave the house. Put them in the crate using your regular command and a treat. You might also want to leave them with a few safe toys in the crate. Vary the moment during your "getting ready to leave" routine that you put your dog in the crate. Although they shouldn't be crated for a long time before you leave, you can crate them anywhere from five to 20 minutes prior to leaving. Don't make your departures emotional and prolonged—they should be matter-of-fact. Praise your dog briefly, give them a treat for entering the crate and then leave quietly. When you return home, don't reward your dog for excited behavior by responding to them in an enthusiastic way. Keep arrivals low-key to avoid increasing their anxiety over when you will return. Continue to crate your dog for short periods from time to time when you're home so they don't associate crating with being left alone. Step 4, Part B: Crate your dog at night Put your dog in the crate using your regular command and a treat. Initially, it may be a good idea to put the crate in your bedroom or nearby in a hallway, especially if you have a puppy. Puppies often need to go outside to eliminate during the night and you'll want to be able to hear your puppy when they whine to be let outside. Older dogs should also initially be kept nearby so they don't associate the crate with social isolation. Once your dog is sleeping comfortably through the night with the crate near you, you can begin to gradually move it to the location you prefer, although time spent with your dog—even sleep time—is a chance to strengthen the bond between you and your pet. Potential problems Whining: If your dog whines or cries while in the crate at night, it may be difficult to decide whether they’re whining to be let out of the crate, or whether they need to be let outside to eliminate. If you've followed the training procedures outlined above, then your dog hasn't been rewarded for whining in the past by being released from their crate. If that is the case, try to ignore the whining. If your dog is just testing you, they'll probably stop whining soon. Yelling at them or pounding on the crate will only make things worse. If the whining continues after you've ignored them for several minutes, use the phrase they associate with going outside to eliminate. If they respond and become excited, take them outside. This should be a trip with a purpose, not play time. If you're convinced that your dog doesn't need to eliminate, the best response is to ignore them until they stop whining. Don't give in; if you do, you'll teach your dog to whine loud and long to get what they want. If you've progressed gradually through the training steps and haven't done too much too fast, you'll be less likely to encounter this problem. If the problem becomes unmanageable, you may need to start the crate training process over again. Separation anxiety: Attempting to use the crate as a remedy for separation anxiety won't solve the problem. A crate may prevent your dog from being destructive, but they may get injured in an attempt to escape. Separation anxiety problems can only be resolved with counterconditioning and desensitization procedures.

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Question
Asha
Pit Bullmastiff
3 Years
0 found helpful
Question
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Asha
Pit Bullmastiff
3 Years

Good morning,

I adopted Asha 2 weeks ago and overall she’s been great and seems to be fairly trained.
The problems I’m having are she has started pooping in my room in the middle of the night. She goes out side in the morning and I come home for lunch so she goes out again. Then once after work and again before bed. Even when she poops before bed she’s pooping in the middle of the night. I tell her no and take her outside. She’s very smart and understands the word.
Should I change her feeding schedule?
Thank you in advance!

Darlene Stott
Darlene Stott
Dog Trainer and Groomer
104 Dog owners recommended

Hello, Asha may be a dog that poops a lot. It may also be that she is still settling in and wakes needing to go. After work, or before bed, make the outing a lengthy one, giving her lots of time and opportunity to empty her bowels. She may be the unusual dog in that she needs to poop in the middle of the night and that's the way it will be. Perhaps discuss the issue with her vet to see if there is a food intolerance that is causing her to poop so often. That is a possibility and there is no harm in getting the vet's opinion. As for the feeding schedule, do not feed her at least 2 hours before bed to give the food time to digest. Lastly, where does Asha sleep at night? Is she on a dog bed? She may feel more at ease if she has a crate or den area to call her own in your room. I am saying this as she may feel anxious when you are asleep and she is left in the "big room" even though you are there. Try a pen area with her cozy bed and a few toys. She may feel better confined - just a thought. Take a look here for tips: https://wagwalking.com/training/not-poop-in-the-house. Also, clean up all accidents with an enzymatic cleaner. You will not smell any odor but Asha's keen nose does. She may repeat the pooping because she smells where she went before. Good luck!

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Question
Ball
Miniature Schnauzer
5 Months
1 found helpful
Question
1 found helpful
Ball
Miniature Schnauzer
5 Months

About two to three months ago we bought a miniature schnauzer. The first two weeks he was doing everything outside. About one month ago he only pee outside. I had been feeding him in the morning and in the night regularly. Also we take him thru the day every 2 hrs until 10 pm which is the last time we take him outside. Our problem is that he hold the poop the whole day and wait to do the poop in the cage at midnight or when we are sleeping in the night. I dont know what else to do. We talk to the vet and he has been in his regular appointments and it seem that everything is good with him. Any tips or recommendations.

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
833 Dog owners recommended

Hello Kiara, First, I would start by checking out the article linked below. Pup is a bit older, so you don't necessarily need to follow the times from that method but do pay attention to the sections on walking pup around to get things going, teaching the Go Potty command, using a potty encouraging spray, and rewarding with treats when he goes. Hopefully the above tips will make a big difference, but the issue also might be pup getting distracted or being fearful while outside. Some dogs will hold it when nervous because pooping is a vulnerable position. If pup seems nervous, spend time simply hanging around outside, playing games, practicing tricks with treats, and simply relaxing - to help pup feel comfortable outside in general. Sitting outside for an hour at a time each day that you can. At this age, its common for puppies to be too distracted while outside, make sure that pup is being taken potty on leash and slowly being walked around the whole time, to keep them focused on going potty not sitting or playing, and because the continuous movement and sniffing will help stimulate the need to go. Finally, I would consult your vet about switching pup's food gradually and making sure they are drinking adequate amounts during the day. I would also ask your vet whether a dog probiotic could help the situation. I am not a vet, so check with your vet for anything medical though. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Question
Gigi
Jack Russel/Chihuahua
10 Weeks
0 found helpful
Question
0 found helpful
Gigi
Jack Russel/Chihuahua
10 Weeks

No matter how often I take my dog out or how long we are outside for she will not poop outside. However, when she comes back inside she poops in the floor. She did really good the previous week about pottying outside, but these past few days she will not go outside.

Alisha Smith
Alisha S., Dog Trainer
225 Dog owners recommended

Hello! I am sending you information on potty training as well as crate training if you decide to utilize a crate to help with potty training. Potty training: Know Your Pup. As you spend time with your puppy, learn your puppy’s love language. Just as some people prefer gifts, touch, or time spent together, puppies can be the same way. Some puppies love praise or pets, while others prefer treats. As you get to know your puppy, consider what reward your puppy loves the most. Create a Daily Schedule. It is best to have a routine for your puppy. A schedule helps them understand when to eat, play, and “go to the bathroom.” Your puppy should go out frequently and the routine should be the same every time. When? Start the day by taking your puppy outside, and repeating based on age and ability. They should also go out after napping, chewing, playing, and within 10 to 15 minutes of eating. Although some puppies can sleep for seven hours, it is important to set an alarm and take your pup out during the night. When you do, don’t make a fuss about it. Quietly take them outside with minimal stimulation and light. Praise them if they go to the bathroom and gently return them to their bed or crate. You don’t want them to get stimulated and ready to play in the middle of the night! As you get to know your puppy, you will become aware of their individual habits. Click here to learn more about house training schedules for puppies. Where? Take your puppy to a specific area to urinate or defecate. Be consistent. You can create an area by using urine-soaked paper or bowel movements to help create an aroma to stimulate your puppy. How? Take your puppy out on a leash so they can focus on the desired activity. This will help prevent them from wandering off to play. Once your puppy is in the selected area, use your verbal cue, such as “Hurry Up,” “Poopies,” “Go tinkle,” or any phrase your puppy responds to. What? Know the signs that your puppy has to go to the bathroom. Every animal may have a different “I gotta go” gesture, which often include restlessness, sniffing around, circling, scratching at the door, barking, and, eventually, squatting. At the first sign that your pup has to go, calmly and quickly take them outside to their bathroom spot. Deal with Accidents. Accidents are a normal part of house training a puppy. What to Do If you see your puppy in the process of urinating or defecating inappropriately, calmly and quickly interrupt them in the act. Tell them to stop (either by a jarring sound or command), and immediately take them to an appropriate location for elimination. After your puppy goes to the bathroom, lavishly praise them and offer a treat. Thoroughly clean up accidents, so your puppy is not attracted to this area again. Create a consistent feeding and watering schedule. Depending on the age of your puppy, they will eat three to four times a day. A consistent feeding routine can create a regular bathroom schedule. Take away water about 2 hours before bedtime. Learn more about ideal dog schedules here. What NOT to Do Don’t punish your puppy when they have an accident. At that point, it is too late. When a puppy has an accident in the house and they walk away, within seconds they have already forgotten about what they did. Taking them to the scene of the crime and yelling and/or rubbing their nose in it does not help and, in fact, can harm your puppy! Supervise. The best thing you can do is to prevent accidents and the best way to do this is to supervise your puppy at all times. You can tether your puppy to your waist with a five or six-foot leash and carefully observe them for signs that they need to go to the bathroom. If you can’t supervise, then crate or confine your puppy. The more accidents your puppy has in the house, the more confusing it will be for them and this can delay house training. Reward, Reward, Reward. It is important to give your puppy a reward for their good behavior. This can be for commands such as sitting and coming to you, or for appropriately eliminating outside. In a puppy, a reward can be a couple kibbles of puppy food or a treat, such as a small piece of meat. The treat should be exciting for them and only available as a result of good behavior. Crate training can take days or weeks, depending on your dog's age, temperament and past experiences. It's important to keep two things in mind while crate training: The crate should always be associated with something pleasant and training should take place in a series of small steps. Don't go too fast. Step 1: Introduce your dog to the crate Place the crate in an area of your house where the family spends a lot of time, such as the family room. Put a soft blanket or towel in the crate. Take the door off and let the dog explore the crate at their leisure. Some dogs will be naturally curious and start sleeping in the crate right away. If yours isn't one of them: Bring them over to the crate and talk to them in a happy tone of voice. Make sure the crate door is open and secured so that it won't hit your dog and frighten them. Encourage your dog to enter the crate by dropping some small food treats nearby, then just inside the door, and finally, all the way inside the crate. If they refuse to go all the way in at first, that's OK; don't force them to enter. Continue tossing treats into the crate until your dog will walk calmly all the way into the crate to get the food. If they aren’t interested in treats, try tossing a favorite toy in the crate. This step may take a few minutes or as long as several days. Step 2: Feed your dog meals in the crate After introducing your dog to the crate, begin feeding them their regular meals near the crate. This will create a pleasant association with the crate. If your dog is readily entering the crate when you begin Step 2, place the food dish all the way at the back of the crate. If they remain reluctant to enter, put the dish only as far inside as they will readily go without becoming fearful or anxious. Each time you feed them, place the dish a little further back in the crate. Once your dog is standing comfortably in the crate to eat their meal, you can close the door while they’re eating. The first time you do this, open the door as soon as they finish their meal. With each successive feeding, leave the door closed a few minutes longer, until they’re staying in the crate for 10 minutes or so after eating. If they begin to whine to be let out, you may have increased the length of time too quickly. Next time, try leaving them in the crate for a shorter time period. If they do whine or cry in the crate, don’t let them out until they stop. Otherwise, they'll learn that the way to get out of the crate is to whine, so they'll keep doing it. Step 3: Practice with longer crating periods After your dog is eating their regular meals in the crate with no sign of fear or anxiety, you can confine them there for short time periods while you're home. Call them over to the crate and give them a treat. Give them a command to enter, such as "crate." Encourage them by pointing to the inside of the crate with a treat in your hand. After your dog enters the crate, praise them, give them the treat and close the door. Sit quietly near the crate for five to 10 minutes and then go into another room for a few minutes. Return, sit quietly again for a short time and then let them out. Repeat this process several times a day, gradually increasing the length of time you leave them in the crate and the length of time you're out of sight. Once your dog will stay quietly in the crate for about 30 minutes with you mostly out of sight, you can begin leaving them crated when you're gone for short time periods and/or letting them sleep there at night. This may take several days or weeks. Step 4, Part A: Crate your dog when you leave After your dog can spend about 30 minutes in the crate without becoming anxious or afraid, you can begin leaving them crated for short periods when you leave the house. Put them in the crate using your regular command and a treat. You might also want to leave them with a few safe toys in the crate. Vary the moment during your "getting ready to leave" routine that you put your dog in the crate. Although they shouldn't be crated for a long time before you leave, you can crate them anywhere from five to 20 minutes prior to leaving. Don't make your departures emotional and prolonged—they should be matter-of-fact. Praise your dog briefly, give them a treat for entering the crate and then leave quietly. When you return home, don't reward your dog for excited behavior by responding to them in an enthusiastic way. Keep arrivals low-key to avoid increasing their anxiety over when you will return. Continue to crate your dog for short periods from time to time when you're home so they don't associate crating with being left alone. Step 4, Part B: Crate your dog at night Put your dog in the crate using your regular command and a treat. Initially, it may be a good idea to put the crate in your bedroom or nearby in a hallway, especially if you have a puppy. Puppies often need to go outside to eliminate during the night and you'll want to be able to hear your puppy when they whine to be let outside. Older dogs should also initially be kept nearby so they don't associate the crate with social isolation. Once your dog is sleeping comfortably through the night with the crate near you, you can begin to gradually move it to the location you prefer, although time spent with your dog—even sleep time—is a chance to strengthen the bond between you and your pet. Potential problems Whining: If your dog whines or cries while in the crate at night, it may be difficult to decide whether they’re whining to be let out of the crate, or whether they need to be let outside to eliminate. If you've followed the training procedures outlined above, then your dog hasn't been rewarded for whining in the past by being released from their crate. If that is the case, try to ignore the whining. If your dog is just testing you, they'll probably stop whining soon. Yelling at them or pounding on the crate will only make things worse. If the whining continues after you've ignored them for several minutes, use the phrase they associate with going outside to eliminate. If they respond and become excited, take them outside. This should be a trip with a purpose, not play time. If you're convinced that your dog doesn't need to eliminate, the best response is to ignore them until they stop whining. Don't give in; if you do, you'll teach your dog to whine loud and long to get what they want. If you've progressed gradually through the training steps and haven't done too much too fast, you'll be less likely to encounter this problem. If the problem becomes unmanageable, you may need to start the crate training process over again. Separation anxiety: Attempting to use the crate as a remedy for separation anxiety won't solve the problem. A crate may prevent your dog from being destructive, but they may get injured in an attempt to escape. Separation anxiety problems can only be resolved with counterconditioning and desensitization procedures.

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Question
Leo
Pit bull
10 Months
0 found helpful
Question
0 found helpful
Leo
Pit bull
10 Months

So we got our rescue Leo from the Humane Society a few months ago we have tried about everything for him to stop peeing and pooping in the house. We even get up 2 to 3 times a night to let him out because if we don't he gets up and will go about 2 times at night pee and poop then in the morning right before we get up. I honestly don't know how he goes that much? We let him out and he only goes potty outside sometimes or he waits and holds it then goes potty inside when we come back in. we have been limiting his food and water as well and he still goes so much. My husband and me are so tired every night because he won't stop excessively going and we're always stepping in it half asleep in the morning because he's always going different places. We are out of options and need some help what do you think we should do? We also have another dog named Luna that we got before him as a puppy and she is great and potty trained I thought that would help him following her lead but apparently not....

Alisha Smith
Alisha S., Dog Trainer
225 Dog owners recommended

Hello! So I have quite a bit of potty training information to send you. It is geared towards young puppies, but when adult dogs (or almost adult in your case) have potty training issues, it is best to start over as if they were a puppy. So this info should help you quite a bit! I included information on crate training just in case you decide to use a crate to help you with potty training. Potty training: Know Your Pup. As you spend time with your puppy, learn your puppy’s love language. Just as some people prefer gifts, touch, or time spent together, puppies can be the same way. Some puppies love praise or pets, while others prefer treats. As you get to know your puppy, consider what reward your puppy loves the most. Create a Daily Schedule. It is best to have a routine for your puppy. A schedule helps them understand when to eat, play, and “go to the bathroom.” Your puppy should go out frequently and the routine should be the same every time. When? Start the day by taking your puppy outside, and repeating based on age and ability. They should also go out after napping, chewing, playing, and within 10 to 15 minutes of eating. Although some puppies can sleep for seven hours, it is important to set an alarm and take your pup out during the night. When you do, don’t make a fuss about it. Quietly take them outside with minimal stimulation and light. Praise them if they go to the bathroom and gently return them to their bed or crate. You don’t want them to get stimulated and ready to play in the middle of the night! As you get to know your puppy, you will become aware of their individual habits. Click here to learn more about house training schedules for puppies. Where? Take your puppy to a specific area to urinate or defecate. Be consistent. You can create an area by using urine-soaked paper or bowel movements to help create an aroma to stimulate your puppy. How? Take your puppy out on a leash so they can focus on the desired activity. This will help prevent them from wandering off to play. Once your puppy is in the selected area, use your verbal cue, such as “Hurry Up,” “Poopies,” “Go tinkle,” or any phrase your puppy responds to. What? Know the signs that your puppy has to go to the bathroom. Every animal may have a different “I gotta go” gesture, which often include restlessness, sniffing around, circling, scratching at the door, barking, and, eventually, squatting. At the first sign that your pup has to go, calmly and quickly take them outside to their bathroom spot. Deal with Accidents. Accidents are a normal part of house training a puppy. What to Do If you see your puppy in the process of urinating or defecating inappropriately, calmly and quickly interrupt them in the act. Tell them to stop (either by a jarring sound or command), and immediately take them to an appropriate location for elimination. After your puppy goes to the bathroom, lavishly praise them and offer a treat. Thoroughly clean up accidents, so your puppy is not attracted to this area again. Create a consistent feeding and watering schedule. Depending on the age of your puppy, they will eat three to four times a day. A consistent feeding routine can create a regular bathroom schedule. Take away water about 2 hours before bedtime. Learn more about ideal dog schedules here. What NOT to Do Don’t punish your puppy when they have an accident. At that point, it is too late. When a puppy has an accident in the house and they walk away, within seconds they have already forgotten about what they did. Taking them to the scene of the crime and yelling and/or rubbing their nose in it does not help and, in fact, can harm your puppy! Supervise. The best thing you can do is to prevent accidents and the best way to do this is to supervise your puppy at all times. You can tether your puppy to your waist with a five or six-foot leash and carefully observe them for signs that they need to go to the bathroom. If you can’t supervise, then crate or confine your puppy. The more accidents your puppy has in the house, the more confusing it will be for them and this can delay house training. Reward, Reward, Reward. It is important to give your puppy a reward for their good behavior. This can be for commands such as sitting and coming to you, or for appropriately eliminating outside. In a puppy, a reward can be a couple kibbles of puppy food or a treat, such as a small piece of meat. The treat should be exciting for them and only available as a result of good behavior. Crate training can take days or weeks, depending on your dog's age, temperament and past experiences. It's important to keep two things in mind while crate training: The crate should always be associated with something pleasant and training should take place in a series of small steps. Don't go too fast. Step 1: Introduce your dog to the crate Place the crate in an area of your house where the family spends a lot of time, such as the family room. Put a soft blanket or towel in the crate. Take the door off and let the dog explore the crate at their leisure. Some dogs will be naturally curious and start sleeping in the crate right away. If yours isn't one of them: Bring them over to the crate and talk to them in a happy tone of voice. Make sure the crate door is open and secured so that it won't hit your dog and frighten them. Encourage your dog to enter the crate by dropping some small food treats nearby, then just inside the door, and finally, all the way inside the crate. If they refuse to go all the way in at first, that's OK; don't force them to enter. Continue tossing treats into the crate until your dog will walk calmly all the way into the crate to get the food. If they aren’t interested in treats, try tossing a favorite toy in the crate. This step may take a few minutes or as long as several days. Step 2: Feed your dog meals in the crate After introducing your dog to the crate, begin feeding them their regular meals near the crate. This will create a pleasant association with the crate. If your dog is readily entering the crate when you begin Step 2, place the food dish all the way at the back of the crate. If they remain reluctant to enter, put the dish only as far inside as they will readily go without becoming fearful or anxious. Each time you feed them, place the dish a little further back in the crate. Once your dog is standing comfortably in the crate to eat their meal, you can close the door while they’re eating. The first time you do this, open the door as soon as they finish their meal. With each successive feeding, leave the door closed a few minutes longer, until they’re staying in the crate for 10 minutes or so after eating. If they begin to whine to be let out, you may have increased the length of time too quickly. Next time, try leaving them in the crate for a shorter time period. If they do whine or cry in the crate, don’t let them out until they stop. Otherwise, they'll learn that the way to get out of the crate is to whine, so they'll keep doing it. Step 3: Practice with longer crating periods After your dog is eating their regular meals in the crate with no sign of fear or anxiety, you can confine them there for short time periods while you're home. Call them over to the crate and give them a treat. Give them a command to enter, such as "crate." Encourage them by pointing to the inside of the crate with a treat in your hand. After your dog enters the crate, praise them, give them the treat and close the door. Sit quietly near the crate for five to 10 minutes and then go into another room for a few minutes. Return, sit quietly again for a short time and then let them out. Repeat this process several times a day, gradually increasing the length of time you leave them in the crate and the length of time you're out of sight. Once your dog will stay quietly in the crate for about 30 minutes with you mostly out of sight, you can begin leaving them crated when you're gone for short time periods and/or letting them sleep there at night. This may take several days or weeks. Step 4, Part A: Crate your dog when you leave After your dog can spend about 30 minutes in the crate without becoming anxious or afraid, you can begin leaving them crated for short periods when you leave the house. Put them in the crate using your regular command and a treat. You might also want to leave them with a few safe toys in the crate. Vary the moment during your "getting ready to leave" routine that you put your dog in the crate. Although they shouldn't be crated for a long time before you leave, you can crate them anywhere from five to 20 minutes prior to leaving. Don't make your departures emotional and prolonged—they should be matter-of-fact. Praise your dog briefly, give them a treat for entering the crate and then leave quietly. When you return home, don't reward your dog for excited behavior by responding to them in an enthusiastic way. Keep arrivals low-key to avoid increasing their anxiety over when you will return. Continue to crate your dog for short periods from time to time when you're home so they don't associate crating with being left alone. Step 4, Part B: Crate your dog at night Put your dog in the crate using your regular command and a treat. Initially, it may be a good idea to put the crate in your bedroom or nearby in a hallway, especially if you have a puppy. Puppies often need to go outside to eliminate during the night and you'll want to be able to hear your puppy when they whine to be let outside. Older dogs should also initially be kept nearby so they don't associate the crate with social isolation. Once your dog is sleeping comfortably through the night with the crate near you, you can begin to gradually move it to the location you prefer, although time spent with your dog—even sleep time—is a chance to strengthen the bond between you and your pet. Potential problems Whining: If your dog whines or cries while in the crate at night, it may be difficult to decide whether they’re whining to be let out of the crate, or whether they need to be let outside to eliminate. If you've followed the training procedures outlined above, then your dog hasn't been rewarded for whining in the past by being released from their crate. If that is the case, try to ignore the whining. If your dog is just testing you, they'll probably stop whining soon. Yelling at them or pounding on the crate will only make things worse. If the whining continues after you've ignored them for several minutes, use the phrase they associate with going outside to eliminate. If they respond and become excited, take them outside. This should be a trip with a purpose, not play time. If you're convinced that your dog doesn't need to eliminate, the best response is to ignore them until they stop whining. Don't give in; if you do, you'll teach your dog to whine loud and long to get what they want. If you've progressed gradually through the training steps and haven't done too much too fast, you'll be less likely to encounter this problem. If the problem becomes unmanageable, you may need to start the crate training process over again. Separation anxiety: Attempting to use the crate as a remedy for separation anxiety won't solve the problem. A crate may prevent your dog from being destructive, but they may get injured in an attempt to escape. Separation anxiety problems can only be resolved with counterconditioning and desensitization procedures.

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Finley
Mutt
2 Years
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Finley
Mutt
2 Years

Finley is the sweetest boy. He's not a jumper, biter, barker--he loves us, he loves bedtime and being around people, and although we've only had him for about two weeks, he seems comfortable to me. Unfortunately, we're not getting him going outside consistently and he's holding it until everyone is asleep. He poops on walks pretty regularly, just not every day. Playing as a reward doesn't work--he doesn't play for very long and we have yet to find a toy he'll play with at all. He associates treats with sitting at the moment, so he just sits whenever he sees we have a treat. He poops in the same spot so I've blocked it off for the night, Im just worried he is going to go somewhere else. I'd also like to note we have a chain in the yard for him, he gets very confused when we put him on the chain and he remains at the door waiting for rescue.

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
833 Dog owners recommended

Hello Kylie, I recommend crate training him and crating him at night. The confined space of a crate encourages a dog's natural desire to keep a space confined space clean. When you can't supervise pup you will need a way to ensure he either asks to go outside because he doesn't want to soil his space or holds it until morning. Check out the Surprise method from the article linked below for introducing the crate: https://wagwalking.com/training/like-a-crate/ Also work on getting him to poop more outside during the day. Pup likely goes on walks better than in the yard because movement stimulates the urge to poop better. The scents from other dogs going potty can also encourage the need to go. When you take pup potty, right now take pup outside on leash and walk pup around slowly in your yard to stimulate the need to go. Tell pup to "Go Potty" and encourage sniffing around while you slowly walk. After pup goes potty, give them a treat, even if they it. After pup pees, walk around for another 10-15 minutes, telling pup to "Go Potty", and giving three treats, one at a time, if pup also poops. If pup doesn't go after 15 minutes of walking around the second time, but may need to because they haven't pooped lately, go back inside, return pup to the crate, and try again in an hour. Repeat taking pup potty and crating in between potty trips if pup doesn't go, every hour, until pup finally poops outside - then you can give pup freedom in the home until pup may need to poop again the second half of the day. Crate up at night and when you can't supervise them during the day also. Being more strict and consistent with this early on will likely mean results sooner and pup ultimately being given more freedom in the home after they are trained in the long run, so I do highly recommend being strict with this for 2-3 months, until pup is consistently going outside whenever they need to go for both poop and pee. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Maggie
Labrador Corso
1 Year
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Maggie
Labrador Corso
1 Year

Pooping inside home and when ever untie her she used to snatching tearing things

Alisha Smith
Alisha S., Dog Trainer
225 Dog owners recommended

Hello! I am sending you quite a bit of information on potty and crate training just in case you want to use a crate to help with potty training Potty training: Know Your Pup. As you spend time with your puppy, learn your puppy’s love language. Just as some people prefer gifts, touch, or time spent together, puppies can be the same way. Some puppies love praise or pets, while others prefer treats. As you get to know your puppy, consider what reward your puppy loves the most. Create a Daily Schedule. It is best to have a routine for your puppy. A schedule helps them understand when to eat, play, and “go to the bathroom.” Your puppy should go out frequently and the routine should be the same every time. When? Start the day by taking your puppy outside, and repeating based on age and ability. They should also go out after napping, chewing, playing, and within 10 to 15 minutes of eating. Although some puppies can sleep for seven hours, it is important to set an alarm and take your pup out during the night. When you do, don’t make a fuss about it. Quietly take them outside with minimal stimulation and light. Praise them if they go to the bathroom and gently return them to their bed or crate. You don’t want them to get stimulated and ready to play in the middle of the night! As you get to know your puppy, you will become aware of their individual habits. Click here to learn more about house training schedules for puppies. Where? Take your puppy to a specific area to urinate or defecate. Be consistent. You can create an area by using urine-soaked paper or bowel movements to help create an aroma to stimulate your puppy. How? Take your puppy out on a leash so they can focus on the desired activity. This will help prevent them from wandering off to play. Once your puppy is in the selected area, use your verbal cue, such as “Hurry Up,” “Poopies,” “Go tinkle,” or any phrase your puppy responds to. What? Know the signs that your puppy has to go to the bathroom. Every animal may have a different “I gotta go” gesture, which often include restlessness, sniffing around, circling, scratching at the door, barking, and, eventually, squatting. At the first sign that your pup has to go, calmly and quickly take them outside to their bathroom spot. Deal with Accidents. Accidents are a normal part of house training a puppy. What to Do If you see your puppy in the process of urinating or defecating inappropriately, calmly and quickly interrupt them in the act. Tell them to stop (either by a jarring sound or command), and immediately take them to an appropriate location for elimination. After your puppy goes to the bathroom, lavishly praise them and offer a treat. Thoroughly clean up accidents, so your puppy is not attracted to this area again. Create a consistent feeding and watering schedule. Depending on the age of your puppy, they will eat three to four times a day. A consistent feeding routine can create a regular bathroom schedule. Take away water about 2 hours before bedtime. Learn more about ideal dog schedules here. What NOT to Do Don’t punish your puppy when they have an accident. At that point, it is too late. When a puppy has an accident in the house and they walk away, within seconds they have already forgotten about what they did. Taking them to the scene of the crime and yelling and/or rubbing their nose in it does not help and, in fact, can harm your puppy! Supervise. The best thing you can do is to prevent accidents and the best way to do this is to supervise your puppy at all times. You can tether your puppy to your waist with a five or six-foot leash and carefully observe them for signs that they need to go to the bathroom. If you can’t supervise, then crate or confine your puppy. The more accidents your puppy has in the house, the more confusing it will be for them and this can delay house training. Reward, Reward, Reward. It is important to give your puppy a reward for their good behavior. This can be for commands such as sitting and coming to you, or for appropriately eliminating outside. In a puppy, a reward can be a couple kibbles of puppy food or a treat, such as a small piece of meat. The treat should be exciting for them and only available as a result of good behavior. Crate training can take days or weeks, depending on your dog's age, temperament and past experiences. It's important to keep two things in mind while crate training: The crate should always be associated with something pleasant and training should take place in a series of small steps. Don't go too fast. Step 1: Introduce your dog to the crate Place the crate in an area of your house where the family spends a lot of time, such as the family room. Put a soft blanket or towel in the crate. Take the door off and let the dog explore the crate at their leisure. Some dogs will be naturally curious and start sleeping in the crate right away. If yours isn't one of them: Bring them over to the crate and talk to them in a happy tone of voice. Make sure the crate door is open and secured so that it won't hit your dog and frighten them. Encourage your dog to enter the crate by dropping some small food treats nearby, then just inside the door, and finally, all the way inside the crate. If they refuse to go all the way in at first, that's OK; don't force them to enter. Continue tossing treats into the crate until your dog will walk calmly all the way into the crate to get the food. If they aren’t interested in treats, try tossing a favorite toy in the crate. This step may take a few minutes or as long as several days. Step 2: Feed your dog meals in the crate After introducing your dog to the crate, begin feeding them their regular meals near the crate. This will create a pleasant association with the crate. If your dog is readily entering the crate when you begin Step 2, place the food dish all the way at the back of the crate. If they remain reluctant to enter, put the dish only as far inside as they will readily go without becoming fearful or anxious. Each time you feed them, place the dish a little further back in the crate. Once your dog is standing comfortably in the crate to eat their meal, you can close the door while they’re eating. The first time you do this, open the door as soon as they finish their meal. With each successive feeding, leave the door closed a few minutes longer, until they’re staying in the crate for 10 minutes or so after eating. If they begin to whine to be let out, you may have increased the length of time too quickly. Next time, try leaving them in the crate for a shorter time period. If they do whine or cry in the crate, don’t let them out until they stop. Otherwise, they'll learn that the way to get out of the crate is to whine, so they'll keep doing it. Step 3: Practice with longer crating periods After your dog is eating their regular meals in the crate with no sign of fear or anxiety, you can confine them there for short time periods while you're home. Call them over to the crate and give them a treat. Give them a command to enter, such as "crate." Encourage them by pointing to the inside of the crate with a treat in your hand. After your dog enters the crate, praise them, give them the treat and close the door. Sit quietly near the crate for five to 10 minutes and then go into another room for a few minutes. Return, sit quietly again for a short time and then let them out. Repeat this process several times a day, gradually increasing the length of time you leave them in the crate and the length of time you're out of sight. Once your dog will stay quietly in the crate for about 30 minutes with you mostly out of sight, you can begin leaving them crated when you're gone for short time periods and/or letting them sleep there at night. This may take several days or weeks. Step 4, Part A: Crate your dog when you leave After your dog can spend about 30 minutes in the crate without becoming anxious or afraid, you can begin leaving them crated for short periods when you leave the house. Put them in the crate using your regular command and a treat. You might also want to leave them with a few safe toys in the crate. Vary the moment during your "getting ready to leave" routine that you put your dog in the crate. Although they shouldn't be crated for a long time before you leave, you can crate them anywhere from five to 20 minutes prior to leaving. Don't make your departures emotional and prolonged—they should be matter-of-fact. Praise your dog briefly, give them a treat for entering the crate and then leave quietly. When you return home, don't reward your dog for excited behavior by responding to them in an enthusiastic way. Keep arrivals low-key to avoid increasing their anxiety over when you will return. Continue to crate your dog for short periods from time to time when you're home so they don't associate crating with being left alone. Step 4, Part B: Crate your dog at night Put your dog in the crate using your regular command and a treat. Initially, it may be a good idea to put the crate in your bedroom or nearby in a hallway, especially if you have a puppy. Puppies often need to go outside to eliminate during the night and you'll want to be able to hear your puppy when they whine to be let outside. Older dogs should also initially be kept nearby so they don't associate the crate with social isolation. Once your dog is sleeping comfortably through the night with the crate near you, you can begin to gradually move it to the location you prefer, although time spent with your dog—even sleep time—is a chance to strengthen the bond between you and your pet. Potential problems Whining: If your dog whines or cries while in the crate at night, it may be difficult to decide whether they’re whining to be let out of the crate, or whether they need to be let outside to eliminate. If you've followed the training procedures outlined above, then your dog hasn't been rewarded for whining in the past by being released from their crate. If that is the case, try to ignore the whining. If your dog is just testing you, they'll probably stop whining soon. Yelling at them or pounding on the crate will only make things worse. If the whining continues after you've ignored them for several minutes, use the phrase they associate with going outside to eliminate. If they respond and become excited, take them outside. This should be a trip with a purpose, not play time. If you're convinced that your dog doesn't need to eliminate, the best response is to ignore them until they stop whining. Don't give in; if you do, you'll teach your dog to whine loud and long to get what they want. If you've progressed gradually through the training steps and haven't done too much too fast, you'll be less likely to encounter this problem. If the problem becomes unmanageable, you may need to start the crate training process over again. Separation anxiety: Attempting to use the crate as a remedy for separation anxiety won't solve the problem. A crate may prevent your dog from being destructive, but they may get injured in an attempt to escape. Separation anxiety problems can only be resolved with counterconditioning and desensitization procedures.

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Denki
Siberian Husky
6 Months
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Denki
Siberian Husky
6 Months

Recently, my dog has been having diarrhea issues, so the vet put him on a gastro diet after a bland diet and metro didn’t work. I was back at my parent’s house for winter break, but I had to move back up to school. We’ve been back for almost five days now and he refuses to poop—he’s only gone twice. He pees outside just fine and won’t go in my dorm room (which is fairly large), but when it comes to pooping, he just won’t do it. He gets incredibly distracted after he pees (he does that right away). He will stop and just stare at absolutely nothing, but it’s even worse when people walk by. I try to redirect him to get him to actually go, but nothing. I can’t tell if he’s constipated (which I don’t think is the case because when he does poop, it’s still diarrhea) or if he’s just too distracted to hunker down and take a shit.

Darlene Stott
Darlene Stott
Dog Trainer and Groomer
104 Dog owners recommended

Hello, I am glad that you have taken Denki to the vet for the diarrhea issues. I do think that you should touch base with the vet again to let them know that he is still having issues. It could also be that the stress of where he is (as opposed to your parent's) is causing the problem, but ruling out a medical reason is necessary. Pooping twice in 5 days is not ideal. We do have the option to ask a vet (I think this is more vet related than training related). You can pose a question here: https://wagwalking.com/wag-health. But ideally, speak to the vet who is familiar with the situation also. All the best to Denki!

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Selena
Husky
1 Year
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Selena
Husky
1 Year

My family and I just adopted this new girl from another person. She had a lot of energy and was very curious about her surroundings. However, she eventually became a bit still and would flinch very hard if we spoke too loud in her direction. Later on we tried taking her on a walk but she tugged on her leash very hard and was overall pretty hard to control. We want to make sure she receives a lot of care and love but we want her to learn to obedience. What steps can we take?

Alisha Smith
Alisha S., Dog Trainer
225 Dog owners recommended

Hello. If you want to train her on your own, there are so many wonderful resources online. Videos and articles full of information. As long as you search for positive reinforcement training, all of the right resources will come up. Search for each item you are struggling with and set aside about 30 minutes a day to work with her. Another option is to contact a local trainer or attend training classes if they are going on right now in your area.

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