He’s everything you hoped he would be, friendly, intelligent, alert, and outgoing. Even your usually somber in-laws can’t help but grin helplessly around your Husky puppy. However, guests only see the positives. There is one negative they’re lucky enough to miss, which is coming downstairs to the unpleasant aroma of an accident, or even worse, standing in an accident. It isn’t his fault, of course, he’s still young. However, you’re keen to tackle this behavior and potty train him properly.
Potty training a Husky will bring with it a number of notable benefits. You will no longer have to clean your nice new floors. Neither will you have to worry about your other pets and young children coming into contact with the potentially harmful bacteria. In addition, you will be able to take him to friends' and families' houses without worrying about him going about his business on their carpets.
Fortunately, potty training a Husky is relatively straightforward. The main task is to get him into a consistent routine. However, you will also need to make the potty as pleasant as possible. That will require an effective motivator. Huskies have a soft spot for anything they can eat. So, some mouth-watering food will play a key part.
Husky puppies are switched on and fast learners. So, if your husky puppy is receptive, you could see results in just a week or so. However, if he isn’t too interested in following instructions, then you may need a while longer. It could take several weeks before you see consistent results. If this training works, you will never have to worry about him going to the toilet in public spaces or in your vehicle again. Not to mention, you won’t have to go out and buy antibacterial spray every week anymore.
Before you start training, you will need to get your hands on a few bits. Stock up on some tasty treats. Alternatively, break his favorite food into small chunks. You will also need a potty location in mind that is easily and regularly accessible.
Try and set aside time at several points throughout the day to take him to his new potty. The more consistently you take him out, the sooner you will see results.
Once you have all that, you just need patience and a pro-active attitude, then work can begin!
We got Yui from a pet store at 12 weeks old. Ever since then she goes potty whenever she pleases. Right after she goes, we put her outside and tell her potty. She will go outside if she has to. Every time we make sure to get rid of the smell with spray. She is also not a nervous pee-er. She does not know how to hold it during the night. Any suggestions?
Hello Camryn, Unfortunately, puppies who come from Petstores that are kept in kennels and not taken outside to go potty are forced to pee and poop in confined spaces, which makes them loose their natural desire to hold it to keep the area clean. Take her outside every one to one-and-a-hour hours when you are home. When you take her outside, tell her to "Go Potty", and enthusiastically praise her and give her five treats, one treat at a time, when she goes. When she is inside with you, attach her to yourself with a six or eight-foot leash so that she cannot sneak off to pee when you are not looking. If she starts to pee, immediately surprise her by doing something like clapping and rush her outside to finish going potty there. Take her outside even if she already finished inside, just to communicate that that's where she should go. Pay attention when she is attached to you. If she tries to wander off, starts circling, sniffing, or squatting she probably needs to pee. The more accidents that you can prevent the quicker potty training will go. She will also need to poop within fifteen to thirty minutes of eating, so take her outside then, even if she just peed before she ate. When you cannot be home, you may need to create an indoor toilet for her. I would recommend using an strong Exercise Pen and making a grass toilet. To make a grass toilet, get a piece of real grass sod and a shallow wide plastic bin and cut the grass sod if needed to make it fit inside. Put the toilet area in one side of the Exercise Pen and when you take her to go potty, some of the times take her over to that toilet area on a leash and tell her to "Go Potty" and encourage her to sniff it and go there. Do this so that she will learn to prefer the grass. When you cannot supervise her, put her in the sturdy Exercise Pen with the toilet on one end so that she will be more likely to pee on that. When she learns through being attached to you and supervised and taken outside to go potty, not to go potty anywhere in the house besides the grass toilet, then you can remove the toilet or put it outside, to transition her to peeing only outside. Anytime that you cannot supervise her, like at night, put her in the exercise pen with the toilet. Although it is a lot less convenient, a grass toilet will encourage outside peeing on grass better, to transition to going outside. Do not use Pee Pads, although they are more convenient because they will likely lead to confusion with other fabric surfaces like rugs, clothes, and carpet, in our house. That might lead to a life of accidents on those materials. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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Hello. We just got Ares from a breeder, he is 13 weeks old. We do not have a fenced in yard, so when we take him to go potty we put him on a leash. He seems to not like his leash very much and will not poop with it on (he pees just fine). How can I get him to adjust to his leash and poop with it on?
Hello Rainie, Check out the article linked below to help Ares learn to adjust to the leash: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-your-puppy-to-accept-leash If he is still struggling, you can also try using a long leash, like 15-20 feet long and let it drag behind him while he sniffs until he gets used to the leash. Do not use a retractable leash with him either way - the tension of that leash makes it unpleasant and it isn't good for teaching heel later. Retractable leashes are best for dogs that are already trained. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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hey. so my pup constantly pees inside the house and not on the pads. we place the pads where he’s peed before after cleaning and getting rid of the scents but he still pees in the house and not on the pads. we take him out a few times a day but he never pees or poops outside. why won’t he go outside and how can i train because nothing seems to be working.
Hello Cindy, If Leo is having accidents on just the hardwood or linoleum floor and not on rugs and carpets, then he is probably avoiding eliminating on fabric type materials while inside. Pee Pads resemble rugs to some dogs, and many dogs will confuse the two. If he is confusing the two, then he is right not to pee on them. Whatever is causing that issue what he really needs is to be crate trained, and tethered to you with a leash while he is free. Follow the "Crate Training" method from the "How to Train a German Shepherd Puppy to Poop Outside" article that I have linked bellow. Using this method very consistently should force him to eventually pee and poop outside since he will be trying to hold his bladder while in the crate and will eventually have to eliminate outside if he is given no other options. When you let him out of the crate to take him outside, calmly reach into the crate and clip a leash onto him. When the leash is attached, then hurry him outside without stopping. If you stop he might have an accident on the way outside. When he pees or poops outside, then reward him with treats right after he goes so that he will want to pee or poop outside again next time. Here is that article: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-german-shepherd-puppy-to-poop-outside If you cannot use the "Crate Training" method for any reason, then use the "Tethering" method from that same article so that he cannot sneak away from you to pee while he is free in your home. You can also use both methods together by placing him into the crate when you cannot watch him, and by attaching him to yourself with the leash when you are at home. Use just the crate training method by itself for at least a couple of days though, to get him comfortable with peeing outside. If you must have him use the bathroom inside because of your schedule or some other reason, then follow the "Exercise Pen" method from the "How to Litter Box Train Your Chihuahua Puppy" article that I have linked bellow. Teach your puppy to pee in a litter box or a grass toilet rather than on Pee Pads when you do this. If he is too large for a litter box already, then create your own litter box out of a shallow plastic storage container and cat litter. The best thing to use for an indoor toilet if you wish for Leo to only use the bathroom outside as an adult, is a grass toilet area. A grass toilet is a plastic or wooden box that is filled with a piece of grass sod that has been cut to fit into the box. This box is less than ideal to clean, but it will clearly communicate to your puppy that he should be peeing on grass, and the box can then be moved outside later on when you transition him to just peeing outside. Here is that article: https://wagwalking.com/training/litter-box-train-a-chihuahua-puppy Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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Loves chewing on my hands and jumping on people to show love
Hello Jocelyn, Check out the Step Toward method for you, and Leash method with guests from the article linked below. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-australian-shepherds-to-not-jump Also, work on teaching pup the Leave It command: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite Directional commands like Out and Place can also be helpful. Out - which means leave the area: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-the-out-command/ Place command: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O75dyWITP1s Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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This is my first time Owning a Siberian husky puppy she’s 10 weeks old and I have couple of questions Which I’m going to list below
1.) how do you make her know not poop or pee inside the house ?
2.) is it okay if I make her sleep in her kennel?
3.) how do you make her follow you’re command ?
Hello! I am going to send you information on both potty training and crate training. There is a lot of info below, but it's very easy to follow and your questions will all be answered. Potty training: Know Your Pup. As you spend time with your puppy, learn your puppy’s love language. Just as some people prefer gifts, touch, or time spent together, puppies can be the same way. Some puppies love praise or pets, while others prefer treats. As you get to know your puppy, consider what reward your puppy loves the most. Create a Daily Schedule. It is best to have a routine for your puppy. A schedule helps them understand when to eat, play, and “go to the bathroom.” Your puppy should go out frequently and the routine should be the same every time. When? Start the day by taking your puppy outside, and repeating based on age and ability. They should also go out after napping, chewing, playing, and within 10 to 15 minutes of eating. Although some puppies can sleep for seven hours, it is important to set an alarm and take your pup out during the night. When you do, don’t make a fuss about it. Quietly take them outside with minimal stimulation and light. Praise them if they go to the bathroom and gently return them to their bed or crate. You don’t want them to get stimulated and ready to play in the middle of the night! As you get to know your puppy, you will become aware of their individual habits. Click here to learn more about house training schedules for puppies. Where? Take your puppy to a specific area to urinate or defecate. Be consistent. You can create an area by using urine-soaked paper or bowel movements to help create an aroma to stimulate your puppy. How? Take your puppy out on a leash so they can focus on the desired activity. This will help prevent them from wandering off to play. Once your puppy is in the selected area, use your verbal cue, such as “Hurry Up,” “Poopies,” “Go tinkle,” or any phrase your puppy responds to. What? Know the signs that your puppy has to go to the bathroom. Every animal may have a different “I gotta go” gesture, which often include restlessness, sniffing around, circling, scratching at the door, barking, and, eventually, squatting. At the first sign that your pup has to go, calmly and quickly take them outside to their bathroom spot. Deal with Accidents. Accidents are a normal part of house training a puppy. What to Do If you see your puppy in the process of urinating or defecating inappropriately, calmly and quickly interrupt them in the act. Tell them to stop (either by a jarring sound or command), and immediately take them to an appropriate location for elimination. After your puppy goes to the bathroom, lavishly praise them and offer a treat. Thoroughly clean up accidents, so your puppy is not attracted to this area again. Create a consistent feeding and watering schedule. Depending on the age of your puppy, they will eat three to four times a day. A consistent feeding routine can create a regular bathroom schedule. Take away water about 2 hours before bedtime. Learn more about ideal dog schedules here. What NOT to Do Don’t punish your puppy when they have an accident. At that point, it is too late. When a puppy has an accident in the house and they walk away, within seconds they have already forgotten about what they did. Taking them to the scene of the crime and yelling and/or rubbing their nose in it does not help and, in fact, can harm your puppy! Supervise. The best thing you can do is to prevent accidents and the best way to do this is to supervise your puppy at all times. You can tether your puppy to your waist with a five or six-foot leash and carefully observe them for signs that they need to go to the bathroom. If you can’t supervise, then crate or confine your puppy. The more accidents your puppy has in the house, the more confusing it will be for them and this can delay house training. Reward, Reward, Reward. It is important to give your puppy a reward for their good behavior. This can be for commands such as sitting and coming to you, or for appropriately eliminating outside. In a puppy, a reward can be a couple kibbles of puppy food or a treat, such as a small piece of meat. The treat should be exciting for them and only available as a result of good behavior. Crate training can take days or weeks, depending on your dog's age, temperament and past experiences. It's important to keep two things in mind while crate training: The crate should always be associated with something pleasant and training should take place in a series of small steps. Don't go too fast. Step 1: Introduce your dog to the crate Place the crate in an area of your house where the family spends a lot of time, such as the family room. Put a soft blanket or towel in the crate. Take the door off and let the dog explore the crate at their leisure. Some dogs will be naturally curious and start sleeping in the crate right away. If yours isn't one of them: Bring them over to the crate and talk to them in a happy tone of voice. Make sure the crate door is open and secured so that it won't hit your dog and frighten them. Encourage your dog to enter the crate by dropping some small food treats nearby, then just inside the door, and finally, all the way inside the crate. If they refuse to go all the way in at first, that's OK; don't force them to enter. Continue tossing treats into the crate until your dog will walk calmly all the way into the crate to get the food. If they aren’t interested in treats, try tossing a favorite toy in the crate. This step may take a few minutes or as long as several days. Step 2: Feed your dog meals in the crate After introducing your dog to the crate, begin feeding them their regular meals near the crate. This will create a pleasant association with the crate. If your dog is readily entering the crate when you begin Step 2, place the food dish all the way at the back of the crate. If they remain reluctant to enter, put the dish only as far inside as they will readily go without becoming fearful or anxious. Each time you feed them, place the dish a little further back in the crate. Once your dog is standing comfortably in the crate to eat their meal, you can close the door while they’re eating. The first time you do this, open the door as soon as they finish their meal. With each successive feeding, leave the door closed a few minutes longer, until they’re staying in the crate for 10 minutes or so after eating. If they begin to whine to be let out, you may have increased the length of time too quickly. Next time, try leaving them in the crate for a shorter time period. If they do whine or cry in the crate, don’t let them out until they stop. Otherwise, they'll learn that the way to get out of the crate is to whine, so they'll keep doing it. Step 3: Practice with longer crating periods After your dog is eating their regular meals in the crate with no sign of fear or anxiety, you can confine them there for short time periods while you're home. Call them over to the crate and give them a treat. Give them a command to enter, such as "crate." Encourage them by pointing to the inside of the crate with a treat in your hand. After your dog enters the crate, praise them, give them the treat and close the door. Sit quietly near the crate for five to 10 minutes and then go into another room for a few minutes. Return, sit quietly again for a short time and then let them out. Repeat this process several times a day, gradually increasing the length of time you leave them in the crate and the length of time you're out of sight. Once your dog will stay quietly in the crate for about 30 minutes with you mostly out of sight, you can begin leaving them crated when you're gone for short time periods and/or letting them sleep there at night. This may take several days or weeks. Step 4, Part A: Crate your dog when you leave After your dog can spend about 30 minutes in the crate without becoming anxious or afraid, you can begin leaving them crated for short periods when you leave the house. Put them in the crate using your regular command and a treat. You might also want to leave them with a few safe toys in the crate. Vary the moment during your "getting ready to leave" routine that you put your dog in the crate. Although they shouldn't be crated for a long time before you leave, you can crate them anywhere from five to 20 minutes prior to leaving. Don't make your departures emotional and prolonged—they should be matter-of-fact. Praise your dog briefly, give them a treat for entering the crate and then leave quietly. When you return home, don't reward your dog for excited behavior by responding to them in an enthusiastic way. Keep arrivals low-key to avoid increasing their anxiety over when you will return. Continue to crate your dog for short periods from time to time when you're home so they don't associate crating with being left alone. Step 4, Part B: Crate your dog at night Put your dog in the crate using your regular command and a treat. Initially, it may be a good idea to put the crate in your bedroom or nearby in a hallway, especially if you have a puppy. Puppies often need to go outside to eliminate during the night and you'll want to be able to hear your puppy when they whine to be let outside. Older dogs should also initially be kept nearby so they don't associate the crate with social isolation. Once your dog is sleeping comfortably through the night with the crate near you, you can begin to gradually move it to the location you prefer, although time spent with your dog—even sleep time—is a chance to strengthen the bond between you and your pet. Potential problems Whining: If your dog whines or cries while in the crate at night, it may be difficult to decide whether they’re whining to be let out of the crate, or whether they need to be let outside to eliminate. If you've followed the training procedures outlined above, then your dog hasn't been rewarded for whining in the past by being released from their crate. If that is the case, try to ignore the whining. If your dog is just testing you, they'll probably stop whining soon. Yelling at them or pounding on the crate will only make things worse. If the whining continues after you've ignored them for several minutes, use the phrase they associate with going outside to eliminate. If they respond and become excited, take them outside. This should be a trip with a purpose, not play time. If you're convinced that your dog doesn't need to eliminate, the best response is to ignore them until they stop whining. Don't give in; if you do, you'll teach your dog to whine loud and long to get what they want. If you've progressed gradually through the training steps and haven't done too much too fast, you'll be less likely to encounter this problem. If the problem becomes unmanageable, you may need to start the crate training process over again. Separation anxiety: Attempting to use the crate as a remedy for separation anxiety won't solve the problem. A crate may prevent your dog from being destructive, but they may get injured in an attempt to escape. Separation anxiety problems can only be resolved with counterconditioning and desensitization procedures.
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