How to Potty Train a Husky Puppy

Medium
1-4 Weeks
General

Introduction

He’s everything you hoped he would be, friendly, intelligent, alert, and outgoing. Even your usually somber in-laws can’t help but grin helplessly around your Husky puppy. However, guests only see the positives. There is one negative they’re lucky enough to miss, which is coming downstairs to the unpleasant aroma of an accident, or even worse, standing in an accident. It isn’t his fault, of course, he’s still young. However, you’re keen to tackle this behavior and potty train him properly.

Potty training a Husky will bring with it a number of notable benefits. You will no longer have to clean your nice new floors. Neither will you have to worry about your other pets and young children coming into contact with the potentially harmful bacteria. In addition, you will be able to take him to friends' and families' houses without worrying about him going about his business on their carpets.

Defining Tasks

Fortunately, potty training a Husky is relatively straightforward. The main task is to get him into a consistent routine. However, you will also need to make the potty as pleasant as possible. That will require an effective motivator. Huskies have a soft spot for anything they can eat. So, some mouth-watering food will play a key part. 

Husky puppies are switched on and fast learners. So, if your husky puppy is receptive, you could see results in just a week or so. However, if he isn’t too interested in following instructions, then you may need a while longer. It could take several weeks before you see consistent results. If this training works, you will never have to worry about him going to the toilet in public spaces or in your vehicle again. Not to mention, you won’t have to go out and buy antibacterial spray every week anymore.

Getting Started

Before you start training, you will need to get your hands on a few bits. Stock up on some tasty treats. Alternatively, break his favorite food into small chunks. You will also need a potty location in mind that is easily and regularly accessible.

Try and set aside time at several points throughout the day to take him to his new potty. The more consistently you take him out, the sooner you will see results.

Once you have all that, you just need patience and a pro-active attitude, then work can begin!

The Irresistible Potty Method

ribbon-method-1
Most Recommended
3 Votes
Step
1
Same potty
Make sure you take him to the same potty spot each day. If he’s been to the toilet there before, he will feel relaxed and more likely to go there again. Also try and find a place that is relatively close to your home, such as your yard or local field.
Step
2
Yesterday’s toilet
If he is struggling to go when you take him to the potty, there is a quick and easy way to encourage him. Wipe down some of the remnants from his last toilet visit. This will put him at ease.
Step
3
Privacy
Make sure your Husky puppy gets some privacy. Staring at him while you wait for him to go may add to the pressure and discourage him. So, turn away and give him the same privacy you would expect.
Step
4
Be vigilant
If you do see him about to do his business inside, you need to quickly take him out to the potty. So, keep an eye out for any intense sniffing around. You may also want to get all members of the house on accident watch.
Step
5
Don’t punish accidents
It is important you do not punish him if he has an accident inside. You may scare him and then he may start submissive peeing. So, calmly remove him and then clean up any accidents up with antibacterial spray. It’s important the smell has completely gone, otherwise he may be more inclined to go there again.
Recommend training method?

The Routine Method

ribbon-method-2
Effective
2 Votes
Step
1
Food routine
Make sure he gets his meals at the same time each day. This will get his body clock in a consistent routine, allowing you to predict when he will need taking out to the potty. For the same reason, also keep his water bowl topped up.
Step
2
Breakfast
Once you have given him breakfast, wait a few minutes and then take him to the potty. Quite simply, if he is always outside when he needs to go, he will soon get into the habit of always using the potty.
Step
3
Lunch time
Make sure he goes back out again at lunch time. He is likely to at least need a pee at this time. Because he is a puppy, he will probably also need to go out to the potty once or twice again in the morning before lunch.
Step
4
Dinner time
Once you have given him his dinner, take him back out for a trip to the potty. He will then probably need to go out again before bed. He will soon develop a habit of using your the if you are consistent.
Step
5
Reward
Whenever he successfully uses the potty, it’s important he gets a generous reward. Make sure it is tasty and ensure he gets it within a few seconds of finishing his business. In fact, the greater the reward, the more likely he is to repeat the behavior again.
Recommend training method?

The Verbal Cue Method

ribbon-method-3
Least Recommended
1 Vote
Step
1
Regular potty visits
Secure him to his leash and take him out to the potty regularly throughout the day. Try and go at the same times each day. This will help him hold it at night, for example, as he knows he will go out first thing in the morning.
Step
2
‘Potty time’
Just as he is about to go to the potty or does go, issue a ‘potty time’ command. Give this in a high-pitched voice. Use this every time he goes and he will soon associate that instruction with going to the toilet.
Step
3
Reward
Make sure you hand over a tasty reward each time he goes to the toilet as you give the command. You can also shower him in verbal praise.
Step
4
Bring forward the command
After a few days or a week, your ‘potty time’ command will automatically trigger a need to go to the toilet. So, you will be able to use this whenever you need him to go to the potty quickly.
Step
5
Lose the treats
Once he responds to the command regularly and the accidents have stopped, you can slowly phase out the treats. He will no longer need a food incentive, using the potty will have become habit.
Recommend training method?

Success Stories and Training Questions

Training Questions and Answers

Question
Princesa (princess) & Oso (bear)
Siberian Husky
3 Months
0 found helpful
Question
0 found helpful
Princesa (princess) & Oso (bear)
Siberian Husky
3 Months

I struggle for them to use the potty time but they keep going in various places, is it because they smell the same place where they potty or do they just start sniffing at potty there?

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
946 Dog owners recommended

Hello Kevin, Check out the Crate Training method from the article I have linked below. I suspect the issue is that pups are being given too much freedom too soon, and that the future and previous accident locations need to be cleaned with a cleaner that contains enzymes also. Only enzymes will remove the smell to the level where a dog can't still smell it, and any remaining pee or poop smell will encourage pup to go potty in the same location as before. Look on a pet cleaner bottle for the word enzyme or enzymatic anywhere, including in the ingredient list if it's not advertised on front. Not all pet cleaners contain enzymes, but many popular ones do, like certain nature's miracle bottles. If pup has been going potty in that location for a while, they may also just associate that location with going potty in general, in which case it needs to be cleaned but pup also needs to be kept away from that area for at least two months whenever their bladder isn't empty. Crate Training method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-german-shepherd-puppy-to-poop-outside Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Question
Mindy and Merlin
Siberian Husky
8 Weeks
0 found helpful
Question
0 found helpful
Mindy and Merlin
Siberian Husky
8 Weeks

I am trying to find a quick and easy way to potty train 2 puppies without punishing them or making it hectic on myself or the pups

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
946 Dog owners recommended

Hello, I highly recommend the Crate Training method from the article I have linked below. It can mean work up front, but in the end tends to lead to fewer accidents and much quicker potty training overall than some other ways. Crate Training method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-german-shepherd-puppy-to-poop-outside Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Question
Luke
Siberian Husky
14 Weeks
0 found helpful
Question
0 found helpful
Luke
Siberian Husky
14 Weeks

Potty training. we take him out every 30 min to an hour but still goes inside as soon as he comes in. What do you suggest

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
946 Dog owners recommended

Hello Ashley, Is pup going potty when you take them out or not going and then peeing once inside? If pup is not going when you take them out, I recommend following the Crate Training method from the article I have linked below, and especially the tips on crating pup when you get back inside if they didn't go, then taking them back out again in 30-45 minutes, repeating that until pup finally goes potty. The crate helps motivate pup to hold it while inside until the need is urgent enough that they go while outside. Also follow the tips in that article for getting pup to go while outside, like taking pup on leash, walking them around slowly, teaching Go Potty, and rewarding going potty. Crate Training method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-german-shepherd-puppy-to-poop-outside If pup is going potty outside, then having an accident 30 minutes later, I would make sure pup is fully finishing by walking pup around another 10 minutes, telling pup to "Go Potty" and rewarding pup each time they go potty, to ensure pup is fully emptying their bladder. If pup is still having accidents then too, I recommend a trip to your vet to see if there is something that is causing incontinence like an infection. I am not a vet, so consult your vet about anything medical. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Question
Raina
Siberian Husky
10 Weeks
0 found helpful
Question
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Raina
Siberian Husky
10 Weeks

How do I get her to be comfortable with me she’s a bit distant, ignores me, and isn’t so playful, should I just give her a lot more time?
I’m Having a bit of trouble with potty training., any tips?
Is it best to not allow her to sleep with me during this training?
And is it possible for her to learn without having to take her out in the middle of the night? Or is it a necessity to do so in the middle of the night?
(Last question sorry) Should I feed her with one scoop every few hours like “once at 7:30, then 2:30 then once again at 9:30” then wait 20-30 mins to then take her out to potty maybe or is there a better way?
I’m trying my best I wanted a challenge and a friend but I need a little guidance if you can help I am great full I love my Raina but she’s a hand full lol Thank you so much *to whom reads and gives advice*
Sincerely, Magina Cobbs
678-699-8754
Maginacobbs06@gmail.com

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
946 Dog owners recommended

Hello Magina, First, check out the section on shy dogs and humans from the article linked below for some tips to help pup warm up to you. https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-socialize-a-shy-dog/ Second, for potty training I recommend the Tethering Method, Crate Training method, or combination of both (if pup is comfortable enough to be within 6 feet of you on leash, otherwise, just the crate training method). https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-german-shepherd-puppy-to-poop-outside Third, I recommend having pup sleep in a crate at night until they are fully potty trained and past all the destructive chewing phases. Even though it may involve some crying for her to adjust to the crate it will be easier to do now then when she is older, and pup's destructive chewing will likely increase again around 6-9 months but at that age their jaws will be strong enough to destroy things, and she would be unsafe left out of the crate at night in many cases. Fourth, pup will still need to be taken potty 1-2 times at night at this age for a bit longer. I would crate pup at night where you can hear her, then when she wakes up and cries to go out after it's been at least 2-3 hours since she last went potty, take her on leash. If she stays asleep, her bladder will also be "asleep" allowing her to make it 5-6 hours in many cases some nights. When you do take her, keep the trip as boring as possible - no food, no play, and little talk. Take her on leash to keep her focused and then immediately return her to the crate after. Keeping trips sleepy and calm like this can help pup learn to only wake when she needs to pee and not for attention, food or play, and thus can help pup learn to sleep through the night as soon as their bladder is mature enough. Fifth, that schedule for feeding works great. The exact times do not matter, as long as you are fairly consistent and pup is fed breakfast, lunch and dinner. 20-30 minutes is a great amount of time to take pup potty after to poop, but I would also watch to see when pup tends to need to go and choose that time after observing. somewhere between 10-45 minutes is when most need. Many puppies switch to twice a day around 6 months, some do it sooner and some later. I would consult your vet about how long to keep pup on 3 meals for. Enjoy your new puppy! Here are a couple more resources you may enjoy if this is your first puppy. Puppy Class videos: Week 1, pt 1: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vnhJGU2NO5k Week 1, pt 2: https://www.dogstardaily.com/videos/week-1-part-2-sirius-berkeley-puppy-1 Week 2, pt 1 https://www.dogstardaily.com/videos/week-2-part-1-sirius-berkeley-puppy-1 Week 2, pt 2: https://www.dogstardaily.com/videos/week-2-part-2-home-jasper-sirius-berkeley-puppy-1 Week 3, pt 1: https://www.dogstardaily.com/videos/week-3-part-1-sirius-berkeley-puppy-1 Week 3, pt 2: https://www.dogstardaily.com/videos/week-3-part-2-sirius-berkeley-puppy-1 Week 4, pt 1: https://www.dogstardaily.com/videos/week-4-part-1-sirius-berkeley-puppy-1 Week 4, pt 2: https://www.dogstardaily.com/videos/week-4-part-2-sirius-berkeley-puppy-1 Week 5, pt 1: https://www.dogstardaily.com/videos/week-5-part-1-sirius-berkeley-puppy-1 Week 5, pt 2: https://www.dogstardaily.com/videos/week-5-part-2-sirius-berkeley-puppy-1 Week 6, pt 1: https://www.dogstardaily.com/videos/week-6-part-1-sirius-berkeley-puppy-1 Week 6, pt 2: https://www.dogstardaily.com/videos/week-6-part-2-sirius-berkeley-puppy-1-0 Finally, check out the PDF e-book downloads found on this website, written by one of the founders of the association of professional dog trainers, and a pioneer in starting puppy kindergarten classes in the USA. Click on the pictures of the puppies to download the PDF books: https://www.lifedogtraining.com/freedownloads/ Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Question
Shadow
Goberian
5 Months
0 found helpful
Question
0 found helpful
Shadow
Goberian
5 Months

Having a hard time potty training will
pee outside but won’t poop

Alisha Smith
Alisha S., Dog Trainer
241 Dog owners recommended

Hello! I am sending you quite a bit of information on potty and crate training just in case you want to use a crate to help with potty training Potty training: Know Your Pup. As you spend time with your puppy, learn your puppy’s love language. Just as some people prefer gifts, touch, or time spent together, puppies can be the same way. Some puppies love praise or pets, while others prefer treats. As you get to know your puppy, consider what reward your puppy loves the most. Create a Daily Schedule. It is best to have a routine for your puppy. A schedule helps them understand when to eat, play, and “go to the bathroom.” Your puppy should go out frequently and the routine should be the same every time. When? Start the day by taking your puppy outside, and repeating based on age and ability. They should also go out after napping, chewing, playing, and within 10 to 15 minutes of eating. Although some puppies can sleep for seven hours, it is important to set an alarm and take your pup out during the night. When you do, don’t make a fuss about it. Quietly take them outside with minimal stimulation and light. Praise them if they go to the bathroom and gently return them to their bed or crate. You don’t want them to get stimulated and ready to play in the middle of the night! As you get to know your puppy, you will become aware of their individual habits. Click here to learn more about house training schedules for puppies. Where? Take your puppy to a specific area to urinate or defecate. Be consistent. You can create an area by using urine-soaked paper or bowel movements to help create an aroma to stimulate your puppy. How? Take your puppy out on a leash so they can focus on the desired activity. This will help prevent them from wandering off to play. Once your puppy is in the selected area, use your verbal cue, such as “Hurry Up,” “Poopies,” “Go tinkle,” or any phrase your puppy responds to. What? Know the signs that your puppy has to go to the bathroom. Every animal may have a different “I gotta go” gesture, which often include restlessness, sniffing around, circling, scratching at the door, barking, and, eventually, squatting. At the first sign that your pup has to go, calmly and quickly take them outside to their bathroom spot. Deal with Accidents. Accidents are a normal part of house training a puppy. What to Do If you see your puppy in the process of urinating or defecating inappropriately, calmly and quickly interrupt them in the act. Tell them to stop (either by a jarring sound or command), and immediately take them to an appropriate location for elimination. After your puppy goes to the bathroom, lavishly praise them and offer a treat. Thoroughly clean up accidents, so your puppy is not attracted to this area again. Create a consistent feeding and watering schedule. Depending on the age of your puppy, they will eat three to four times a day. A consistent feeding routine can create a regular bathroom schedule. Take away water about 2 hours before bedtime. Learn more about ideal dog schedules here. What NOT to Do Don’t punish your puppy when they have an accident. At that point, it is too late. When a puppy has an accident in the house and they walk away, within seconds they have already forgotten about what they did. Taking them to the scene of the crime and yelling and/or rubbing their nose in it does not help and, in fact, can harm your puppy! Supervise. The best thing you can do is to prevent accidents and the best way to do this is to supervise your puppy at all times. You can tether your puppy to your waist with a five or six-foot leash and carefully observe them for signs that they need to go to the bathroom. If you can’t supervise, then crate or confine your puppy. The more accidents your puppy has in the house, the more confusing it will be for them and this can delay house training. Reward, Reward, Reward. It is important to give your puppy a reward for their good behavior. This can be for commands such as sitting and coming to you, or for appropriately eliminating outside. In a puppy, a reward can be a couple kibbles of puppy food or a treat, such as a small piece of meat. The treat should be exciting for them and only available as a result of good behavior. Crate training can take days or weeks, depending on your dog's age, temperament and past experiences. It's important to keep two things in mind while crate training: The crate should always be associated with something pleasant and training should take place in a series of small steps. Don't go too fast. Step 1: Introduce your dog to the crate Place the crate in an area of your house where the family spends a lot of time, such as the family room. Put a soft blanket or towel in the crate. Take the door off and let the dog explore the crate at their leisure. Some dogs will be naturally curious and start sleeping in the crate right away. If yours isn't one of them: Bring them over to the crate and talk to them in a happy tone of voice. Make sure the crate door is open and secured so that it won't hit your dog and frighten them. Encourage your dog to enter the crate by dropping some small food treats nearby, then just inside the door, and finally, all the way inside the crate. If they refuse to go all the way in at first, that's OK; don't force them to enter. Continue tossing treats into the crate until your dog will walk calmly all the way into the crate to get the food. If they aren’t interested in treats, try tossing a favorite toy in the crate. This step may take a few minutes or as long as several days. Step 2: Feed your dog meals in the crate After introducing your dog to the crate, begin feeding them their regular meals near the crate. This will create a pleasant association with the crate. If your dog is readily entering the crate when you begin Step 2, place the food dish all the way at the back of the crate. If they remain reluctant to enter, put the dish only as far inside as they will readily go without becoming fearful or anxious. Each time you feed them, place the dish a little further back in the crate. Once your dog is standing comfortably in the crate to eat their meal, you can close the door while they’re eating. The first time you do this, open the door as soon as they finish their meal. With each successive feeding, leave the door closed a few minutes longer, until they’re staying in the crate for 10 minutes or so after eating. If they begin to whine to be let out, you may have increased the length of time too quickly. Next time, try leaving them in the crate for a shorter time period. If they do whine or cry in the crate, don’t let them out until they stop. Otherwise, they'll learn that the way to get out of the crate is to whine, so they'll keep doing it. Step 3: Practice with longer crating periods After your dog is eating their regular meals in the crate with no sign of fear or anxiety, you can confine them there for short time periods while you're home. Call them over to the crate and give them a treat. Give them a command to enter, such as "crate." Encourage them by pointing to the inside of the crate with a treat in your hand. After your dog enters the crate, praise them, give them the treat and close the door. Sit quietly near the crate for five to 10 minutes and then go into another room for a few minutes. Return, sit quietly again for a short time and then let them out. Repeat this process several times a day, gradually increasing the length of time you leave them in the crate and the length of time you're out of sight. Once your dog will stay quietly in the crate for about 30 minutes with you mostly out of sight, you can begin leaving them crated when you're gone for short time periods and/or letting them sleep there at night. This may take several days or weeks. Step 4, Part A: Crate your dog when you leave After your dog can spend about 30 minutes in the crate without becoming anxious or afraid, you can begin leaving them crated for short periods when you leave the house. Put them in the crate using your regular command and a treat. You might also want to leave them with a few safe toys in the crate. Vary the moment during your "getting ready to leave" routine that you put your dog in the crate. Although they shouldn't be crated for a long time before you leave, you can crate them anywhere from five to 20 minutes prior to leaving. Don't make your departures emotional and prolonged—they should be matter-of-fact. Praise your dog briefly, give them a treat for entering the crate and then leave quietly. When you return home, don't reward your dog for excited behavior by responding to them in an enthusiastic way. Keep arrivals low-key to avoid increasing their anxiety over when you will return. Continue to crate your dog for short periods from time to time when you're home so they don't associate crating with being left alone. Step 4, Part B: Crate your dog at night Put your dog in the crate using your regular command and a treat. Initially, it may be a good idea to put the crate in your bedroom or nearby in a hallway, especially if you have a puppy. Puppies often need to go outside to eliminate during the night and you'll want to be able to hear your puppy when they whine to be let outside. Older dogs should also initially be kept nearby so they don't associate the crate with social isolation. Once your dog is sleeping comfortably through the night with the crate near you, you can begin to gradually move it to the location you prefer, although time spent with your dog—even sleep time—is a chance to strengthen the bond between you and your pet. Potential problems Whining: If your dog whines or cries while in the crate at night, it may be difficult to decide whether they’re whining to be let out of the crate, or whether they need to be let outside to eliminate. If you've followed the training procedures outlined above, then your dog hasn't been rewarded for whining in the past by being released from their crate. If that is the case, try to ignore the whining. If your dog is just testing you, they'll probably stop whining soon. Yelling at them or pounding on the crate will only make things worse. If the whining continues after you've ignored them for several minutes, use the phrase they associate with going outside to eliminate. If they respond and become excited, take them outside. This should be a trip with a purpose, not play time. If you're convinced that your dog doesn't need to eliminate, the best response is to ignore them until they stop whining. Don't give in; if you do, you'll teach your dog to whine loud and long to get what they want. If you've progressed gradually through the training steps and haven't done too much too fast, you'll be less likely to encounter this problem. If the problem becomes unmanageable, you may need to start the crate training process over again. Separation anxiety: Attempting to use the crate as a remedy for separation anxiety won't solve the problem. A crate may prevent your dog from being destructive, but they may get injured in an attempt to escape. Separation anxiety problems can only be resolved with counterconditioning and desensitization procedures.

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